Revering nature, mountain worship, ”shugendo”
Ohminesan-ji is a sacred site founded approximately1300 years ago by Enno Gyoja, who later became the founder of ”shugendo” . It is a temple that stands 1700 m above sea level, on the summit of Sanjogatake, the center of the mountains of Ominesan.
Both concepts of revering nature and mountain worship existed in ancient Japan, but it later merged with Taoism and Buddhism, developing into ”shugendo”, unique to Japan.
The principal object of worship of Ohminesan-ji and Kinpusen-ji, also the center of ”shugendo” worship is the Zaou Gongen. This is quite different from Buddha of Buddhism or gods of Shintoism, but it is said that this is what Enno Gyoja perceived when he finished his strict training in the mountains. It is a revered statue that is unique to Japan, not deriving from India nor China. Ohminesan-ji still exists as the basic place of practice for ”shugendo”, and is the only sacred site that has been off limits to females since the beginning of the Heian period. The mountain allows visitors to enter the mountain only 5 months a year. The mountain is closed until the ”toakeshiki” that takes place every year at daybreak on the 3rd of May, and is open till the ”toshimeshiki” at daybreak on the 23rd of September.
Pledging allegiance at ”Nishi Nozoki”
We experienced ”shugendo” training upon entering the mountain. Accompanying us was a Yamabushi who had been undergoing training in the mountains for 17 years, blowing the conch-shell horn and reciting prayers at each sacred point. Although it was already mid-May, when we passed the foggy mountain trails and reached the steep cliff ”Kanekake Iwa” we found icicles still hanging from the nearby trees. There were chains secured onto the side of the cliff acting as handrails to help you climb ”Kanekake Iwa”, but it is literally rock climbing. Once you climb up this cliff, you will reach ”Nishi Nozoki”.
At ”Nishi Nozoki” you are bound in ropes and hung half way down from the cliff, where you are made to look down below. While you are still hanging mid way, you are asked a question, ”Do you still want to continue your devotion for the pursuit of your faith?” You need to reply with determination, otherwise your training will not end. Here, in this dangerous state, you will confess, repent, and pledge allegiance. Our group climbed up the mountain further and finally reached ”Ohminesan-ji” all in one piece.
