Noguchi Naohiko, One of the Four Best Chief Brewers of Not
The chief brewer of Kano Syuzou is Naohiko Noguchi, ranked among the top four chief brewers in Noto Peninsula of Ishikawa Prefecture. He was born to a family of brewers and has been involved in sake brewing since 1963.
He is known as the one of the best, having won the gold prize at the National Bureau Research of Brewing 12 consecutive times, for a total of 26 times. He has influenced many breweries and in 2006, was officially given the title ”Contemporary Master Craftsman” by the Minister of Health, Labor and Welfare.
The master is especially skilled with the “yamahai jikomi” method. Kano Syuzou’s leading label ”Jokigen” with its thick full body and sharp aftertaste is created by the master’s “yamahai jikomi.”
Mastering ”yamahai jikomi”
During the process of making sake, lactic acid bacterium is essential to activate yeast. For “yamahai jikomi”, natural lactic acid bacterium is used. In other words, lactic acid bacterium is not added artificially, and the natural lactic acid bacterium living in the brewery is utilized. This is how Kano Syuzou rich unique flavor is brought out.
Noguchi explained that changes in the environment of the brewery can change the time it takes for the in-house lactic acid bacterium used for “yamahai jikomi” to grow. Of course, the brewer carefully watches over the timing and any changes. It is said that ”yamahai jikomi” is directly affected by the brewer’s observation and judgment.
The motto of Kano Syuzou Co., Ltd.
”Sake” is prepared during autumn and winter, so he basically lives in the brewery through the beginning of spring, only returning to his home in the summer.
He has continued this routine for approximately 60 years now.
”When I head to the brewery for work, I experience good tension. The reason I can stay healthy is because I have continued to work.” He explained to us that it is important he stay healthy to continue working.
”Jokigen” is also a result of the efforts of Kano Syuzou. They have revived the ”Hakusui Well” in Yokaichi-machi, and now use the soft mild water for their ”sake”. An in their pursuit of the ideal rice, they even grow their own Yamada Nishiki ”sake” rice.
The experience of the chief brewer and the motto of Kano Syuzou creates their premium label ”Jokigen”. The visit gave us a glimpse into how the people supporting ”Jokigen” spend their summers.
