Blissful tea time in a “tea room without a roof
The specialty of Ureshino City in Saga Prefecture is Ureshino tea. It is said that tea cultivation techniques were introduced from China during the Muromachi period and began in this region. In early May, just as the harvest begins, visiting Ureshino reveals steam rising from many tea factories, and the fragrant aroma of tea fills the air throughout the town. Typically, tea is produced by farmers who grow the tea leaves, and wholesalers who process and sell the product. However, Soejimaen handles everything from cultivation to sales in-house.
“Ureshino is known for its steamed green tea, which has its roots in kamairicha (pan-fired tea). It is also called guri-cha, meaning ‘tea balls,’ because it looks like balls.”
The fourth-generation owner, Hitoshi Soejima, has been committed to pesticide-free and reduced-pesticide cultivation with an eye on the future of Ureshino tea. He handles everything from packaging design to sales, expanding distribution nationwide.
“Since my father’s generation, we have reduced our cultivation area to focus on pesticide-free and reduced-pesticide farming, and we sell directly to customers to ensure safe and secure tea. Our tea is now used in famous ryokan (traditional inns), and the number of fans is growing.”
Tea house without a roof
Walking through a tea field where harvesting has just begun. From the slopes of the hilltop field at Soejimaen, you can see the town of Ureshino. It was the 88th night of spring, a day when it is said that drinking tea picked on this day will bring good health. The Soejima family was busy picking tea leaves by hand.
“Here, we not only grow green tea but also experiment with black tea. We want to preserve tea culture by trying various things,”
Mr. Fukushima explained as he led me to a “roofless tea house” built in the center of the highest tea field. Under the clear blue sky, I enjoyed the new tea while being gently caressed by the refreshing breeze. The first tea served was warm tea poured into small cups. It was rich in umami and sweetness, with no bitterness or astringency. The second cup was cold tea steeped overnight. Served in a champagne flute, it had a refreshing sweetness. The flavor was deep, and the color was vibrant. It was completely different from the bottled tea sold at convenience stores.
“Tea is a drink whose delicate flavor varies depending on the variety, production method, and how it is brewed. But even though it is as familiar as sake, if not more so, most people don’t know much about it. I want to learn more about Japanese tea.”
The best tea time spent in a “roofless tea room.” Nakata also rediscovered the true power of Japanese tea.
