Daimon, Edo komon and aizome yukata ”Nagaita Chugata”
We visited the workshop of Nobuo Matsubara, who carries on the technique ”nagaita chugata” to dye yukata.
There are many yukata, but only the traditional aizome yukata made from cotton or hemp uses the nagaita chugata technique.
Experiencing the dyeing process
A cloth is strapped to a long board, and a paper pattern made from ”shibugami” is placed on top, then glue mixed with red dye is applied to the cloth. The process of placing the paper pattern and applying the red glue is repeated, so the design continues. While the red dye and glue mix acts as a guide, in the end, it will wash away with water, and the color will eventually fade away.
When the glue has been applied all throughout, it is dried in the sun, and the glue is applied to the back of the cloth as well. This is because with aizome or indigo dyeing, the cloth is immersed in the dye, so both sides of the cloth are dyed.
He soaked the fabric in indigo to add color, washed the glue away with water, patted it dry, and neutralized the cloth with acetic acid. Nakata held up the cloth which he had dyed. The pattern and his name showed through beautifully. Nakata was happy.
Using natural materials
Nagaita chugata takes advantage of the properties of the glue, Matsubara told us.
Matsubara makes a fresh batch of glue every day by mixing rice paste and rice bran, taking into account the day’s temperature and humidity.
- fabric-dyeing artist Nobuo Matsubara
- Kimitsu, Chiba