Viewing the mountains lit by the morning sun
”Yamadera, Risshakuji Temple”

A temple with a history of 1200 years

Risshakuji is a temple of the Tendai Sect in Yamagata, Yamagata Prefecture. Know by the name of Yamadera, it has gathered worshippers as the temple for breaking bad karma.
“Today we are holding a ceremony to exhibit the statue of worship which we do only every 50 years.” Sato, the volunteer guide told us.
The statue of Yakushi Nyorai (Healing Buddha) is designated as an Important National Cultural Asset, and is unveiled only every 50 years, and today was the day. Risshakuji became a temple to keep incense burning for the famous priest En-nin (794-864 AD), and to keep the pledge to perpetually carry out the transcribing of the Sutras, for four years as one set.
During the Muromachi era, the temple was damaged in the war and its status declined, but later it received the protection from the Mogami clan who were the lord of the Yamagata Castle. By the time of Yoshimitsu Mogami, they regained all their glory. In the Edo period, they received 1420 “goku” (“goku” indicates value of asset. 1420 goku is equivalent to an asset value of about 30 million yen in current economy), and they were able to rebuild the lost lecture hall .

The holy flame continues to burn

Risshakuji is often described as the “temple where the flame of history is”. This is because of the holy flame that originated at the Enryakuji temple. When Enryakuji was destroyed by Nobunaga Oda, the flame was given to Risshakuji. Then returned again from Risshakuji when Enryakuji was rebuilt. The flame still lives on, and that is the reason why it is still called the temple of the flame of history.
Risshakuji is also known by its alias of ”Yamadera”. By its name, (mountain temple) many may think of the 1015 stone steps that lead to the inner sanctuary. The steps begin at the main lecture hall, Nemoto Chudo, where the statue of the Yakushi Nyorai that En-nin himself sculptured is housed. Visitors will start their 1015 step walk to the inner building from there．

Mountains in the sunlight

Risshakuji is the setting for the famous ”haiku” by Basho Matsuo

“In the utter silence
A cicada’s voice alone
Penetrates the rocks.”

Which was written in his collection “The Narrow road to the Deep North”(Oku-no-hosomichi) . Basho is said to have visited Risshakuji on that journey and wrote this ”haiku”.
Just as we started panting walking up the stairs, we found a monument about Basho’s visit to the temple. We could feel that indescribable “utter silence” engulf us. The hall that stood by the road as we neared the inner sanctuary is the Kaizando hall. It is said that the remains of En-nin is buried in the cave under the cliff. The chief priest brings meals to En-nin in the morning and in the evening every day.
This spot is also known for its fantastic view. We climbed up further from Kaizando and got to Godaido. It was still early in the morning, and we could see the mountains in the morning light. “This is beautiful.” Nakata uttered. Mr.Sato, who was next to us told us “En-nin-san is said to have said that this is his soul’s home.” The mountains shining golden was certainly a home that cleansed our souls.