In Okinawa, there are still sacred places called “Utaki” where people have offered prayers since ancient times in various places. Among them, “Sefa Utaki” is known as the most sacred place in the Ryukyu Kingdom. The primitive space that tells the spirit of “nature worship” that gods reside in nature itself such as rocks and trees attracts visitors.
Utaki tells the story of Okinawa’s history, where nature worship is deeply rooted
Sefa Utaki is located in Nanjo City, in the southern part of the main island of Okinawa. Since being registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000 as “Gusuku Sites and Related Properties of the Kingdom of the Ryukyus,” it has become widely known both in Japan and overseas, and is now one of Okinawa’s leading tourist destinations, with over 400,000 visitors per year. However, the first thing that confuses first-time visitors is how to read the name.
“Since it is generally read as saijo (funeral hall), some people think that they are visiting a crematorium. The origin of the name is that “sai” means pure, so it was named saijo because it is a sacred place. Another theory is that the place name “Saihabaru” here was corrupted to “Se-fa” and became saijo as a phonetic spelling.” This is what Hideaki Ishida of “Amamikiyo Romantic Association,” a tour guide at Sefa Utaki, explained. Okinawa is an island where nature worship is deeply rooted, worshiping nature such as trees, springs, rocks, and wells. Since it is believed that gods descend to such natural formations, there are no gods or worship halls like shrines in Honshu. However, important history and the spirit that our ancestors have cherished and passed down reside in parts of nature that we would pass by if we were to pass them by. Ishida has been a guide at Sefa Utaki for many years, wanting to convey the importance of such utaki to many people.
The reason why it is said to be the most sacred place in the Ryukyu Kingdom
According to Ishida’s explanation, there are about 900 Utaki in Okinawa. Why is Sefa Utaki said to be the most sacred place in the Ryukyu Kingdom? The reason is that it is a Utaki created by Amamikiyo, the god of the creation of the Ryukyu Kingdom. In Ryukyu mythology, it is said that Amamikiyo created seven Utaki, the Seven Utaki of the Creation of the Ryukyu Kingdom, when he created the nation of Ryukyu. Sefa Utaki is one of them.
There is also a legend that Sefa Utaki was the place where the ceremony “Oaraori” was held, in which “Kikoe Okimi” takes over as the highest priest. Kikoe Okimi is the highest-ranking title for a female priest (Noro) in the Ryukyu faith. It is said that Sefa Utaki was the spiritual protector of the Ryukyu kings and the entire kingdom, and was in charge of the royal ceremonies for over 400 years, from the first king (1470) to the 15th king (1875). With such an important role, the inauguration ceremony of Mikoe Okimi was a significant ritual for the entire nation. This shows just how special Sefa Utaki was in the Ryukyu Kingdom.
A sacred area where only female priests are allowed to enter
There are six places of worship called “Ibi (sacred area)” in Sefa Utaki. It takes about an hour to walk around them all at a leisurely pace. Starting from “Sefa, the Green House,” you will proceed through the mysterious forest where the entire area is considered sacred.
At the beginning of the approach to Utaki, there is the “Kudaka Island Worship Site,” which overlooks Kudaka Island in the sea to the east. Kudaka Island is said to be the first island created when Amamikiyo, the god of the creation of the Ryukyu Islands, descended from heaven to earth, and is also known as the “Island of the Gods.” In Ryukyu, it is believed that Niraikanai, the world where the gods live, lies to the east where the sun rises, and people have offered prayers to Niraikanai. From Sefa Utaki, Kudaka Island is located to the east. For this reason, the “Kudaka Island Worship Site” has also been revered as a passage to Niraikanai.
To the right of that is the entrance to the Utaki, called Ujoguchi. From here onwards, the Utaki was once managed directly by the Shuri Royal Court, and only the king and those who performed religious ceremonies were allowed to enter. During the Ryukyu Kingdom era, only women could become priests, so men were not allowed inside. It is not known for certain, but it is said that even the king had to change into women’s clothing when entering.
“The famous Kikoe Okimi was also a woman, but the reason why there were only women is because of the Onari God faith that was rooted in the Ryukyu Kingdom era. Onari means sisters. In the past, in the Ryukyus, men would go out to work at sea, while women would stay at home and pray for the safety of their men. Eventually, it was believed that sisters had the spiritual power to protect their brothers, and the Onari God faith, which believes in the spiritual power of women, became the foundation of the Ryukyu Kingdom. As a result, women came to be in charge of rituals as priests, and at Sefa Utaki, priestesses (noro) have offered prayers for peace and prosperity for the Ryukyu Kingdom, bountiful harvests, and so on. It wasn’t until 1879, after the Ryukyu Kingdom was destroyed, that anyone was allowed to enter freely.”
There are six stone incense burners at the entrance to the shrine. These represent the six places of worship within the shrine. As mentioned above, not everyone was allowed inside the shrine, so those who were unable to enter offered their prayers here.
Six places of worship within the Utaki where prayers were offered
As you climb through the dense forest from the Gomonguchi entrance, you will see the first place of worship, “Ufugui,” on your left. Ufugui means “large hall” or “first seat.”
There is a huge rock at the back, and in front of it is a prayer space (una) with a raised stone pavement. It is said that the “Oshinagari” ceremony took place here, when Mikoe-no-Okimi was inaugurated as the highest priest.
The second place of worship is “Yuinchi.” Yuinchi is the Ryukyu Kingdom’s term for kitchen. However, cooking was not done here, and it is interpreted as a place where bountiful harvests flowed in from all over the country during the Ryukyu Kingdom era, when trade was thriving. The king and priestesses are said to have prayed for the prosperity of the kingdom and bountiful harvests at Yuinchi, where a large rock juts out above them.
The third and fourth places of worship are the “Amadayuruashikanubi” jar and the “Shikiyodayuruamaganubi” jar. The water that drips from the two stalactites is said to be “sacred water,” and two jars have been placed there to catch it.
“Ryukyu was originally an island formed by the uplift of coral chunks. The rocks at Sefa Utaki are made of Ryukyu limestone, so they have many holes. When it rains, the rainwater seeps into the rocks and accumulates there, and gradually trickles down. It was believed that divine plants grew on top of these rocks, and the water that falls from the rock to nourish the plants is truly divine water. There is a legend that drinking this water will ensure good health.”
A mysterious triangular landscape created by huge rocks
Behind the two jars are the fifth and sixth places of worship, Sangui and Chonohana, which are the highlights of the tour course. The view from in front of these places of worship is a symbolic view of Sefa Utaki and a great spot for taking photos. Two huge rocks support each other, creating a triangular space, creating a mystical landscape created by nature.
Chonohana is a place of worship that is said to have a deep connection with Mikoe-no-Okimi, and is considered the most prestigious place of worship in Sefa Utaki. There are 15 incense burners here, and since Mikoe-no-Okimi was the 15th reign, it is thought that the number of incense burners was prepared for each reign. Currently, it is prohibited to enter beyond the triangular tunnel, and it is not possible to reach these two places of worship, but at the end of the triangle is Sangui, and on the rock to the right of that is Chonohana, so it is a good idea to pray from the outside.
A total of nine magatama (curved beads), including three rare gold magatama (curved beads), have been excavated from the underground of Sangui, and they have been designated as important cultural properties of Japan. Magatama are sacred objects worn by female priestesses, and are said to have been buried here as prayers to appease the anger of the gods.
“Before the magatama was excavated, it was merely a legend, but the fact that such a valuable object was found as physical evidence proves how sacred Sefa Utaki was during the Ryukyu Kingdom era. It can be said that it was truly the most sacred place in the Ryukyu Kingdom.”
Even now, Sefa Utaki is worshiped as a place of prayer, even after the passage of time. Why not surrender yourself to this sacred space, listening to the chirps of the birds, the sounds of the grass and trees rustling in the wind, and the voices of nature, while thinking about the history and spiritual culture that resides in this place?
