Yatate Pass, which straddles the border between Odate City, Akita Prefecture and Hirakawa City, Aomori Prefecture, was once a major production area for natural Akita cedar. Unlike artificially planted Akita cedars, natural Akita cedars are not pruned or thinned and grow in their natural state. This results in slower growth and narrower annual rings. As a result, Akita cedar is strong, making it an excellent material for crafts and building materials. From National Route 7, which passes through the Yatate Pass, one enters a narrow path leading to the Nikkei Onsen Hot Springs, and from there, the forest continues to grow. Just as the narrowing and darkening road becomes a little disconcerting, a calm Japanese-style inn appears in front of us.
NIKKEI ONSEN” reborn again in Akita
Founded in 1893, “Hikage Onsen” has long been a favorite hot spring of the locals, called “the sacred spring of the three-day turnaround,” where a three-day stay in the hot spring will make even the worst of one’s problems better. Although not a magnificent facility, many Odate residents frequented the onsen because of its hot water. However, due to the effects of the Great East Japan Earthquake and the aging of the building, it closed its business in 2014. Many people regretted the closure of the famous hot spring, and it finally reopened in October 2017. While retaining the atmosphere of a former therapeutic bathhouse, the hotel has been reborn as an inn where guests can spend luxurious time while enjoying the quietness of the forest, with a total of 28 rooms, including Japanese and Western-style junior suites and special rooms with hot spring baths, not all of which are the same type. Of course, you can enjoy the food and hot spring baths not only overnight but also on a day trip.
Healing the body and soul with hot springs and local cuisine
The aroma of sulfur is already in the air when you enter the atrium lobby. The hot spring at Nikkei Onsen is a sulfur-containing carbon dioxide-sodium chloride hot spring. The hot water, which has long been believed to be effective against skin ailments, is rich in salt and strong. The space made of Akita cedar gives off a limpid atmosphere. Sitting on a chair in the lobby filled with the warmth of wood without excessive decoration, the place also feels like a forest of yatate. After checking in, it is customary at Nikkei Onsen to make reservations at one of the four private hot springs. Anbei Yukko “, ” Urukeruke Yukko “, and ” Takimino Yukko ” are all private open-air baths that overlook the beautiful surrounding trees. Each bathtub is overflowing with sulfur spring water containing carbonic acid spring water. The water is a bit hot, but so strong that it seems to reach every bone in your body. The feeling of openness after getting out of the baths is also a feeling that can only be experienced at a famous bathhouse. The private bath ” Menke Yukko” in the indoor bath is a sulfur spring with thick, nigori-tinged water. It is called “medicinal hot water for beautiful skin,” and the thick, smooth water is pleasant to the touch. The slightly warm temperature makes it the perfect hot spring for a long, leisurely soak. After getting out of the bath, it is also exceptionally pleasant to cool down with an ice cream and drink available only for guests in the lobby.
Dinner is not spectacular, but the local cuisine using organic, pesticide-free local vegetables will soothe both the palate and the soul. Hinai jidori chicken, grilled river fish, Akita beef, water spinach, and the famous Akita kiritanpo nabe soup. You will be reminded once again that Akita is a food kingdom with an abundance of mountain produce. As I drifted off to sleep, the darkness had melted away, and the sky was filled with stars. Surrounded by Akita cedars, Nikkei Onsen offers a bliss that cannot be experienced in the city.
