Kami City in Kochi Prefecture has long been a hub of forestry and agriculture. The Monobe River, a Class 1 river that originates at Mount Shiraga and flows into Tosa Bay, runs through this area. Pure water carried down from the upstream mountains, the excellent drainage typical of alluvial fans, and an inland climate characterized by significant temperature fluctuations between day and night. Captivated by this blessed environment, newcomers have established a brewery and are working alongside the local community to create one-of-a-kind craft beer.
From Osaka to Kochi: The Beginning of a Move Inspired by the “Lifestyle”
Shinya Setoguchi first visited Kochi because his brother-in-law was attending Kochi University.
Unspoiled nature, food that delights the palate, and warm-hearted people. Captivated by all of it, he recalls thinking, “First of all, I want to live in this area.”
At the time, Setoguchi was an engineer who had studied science and engineering from technical high school through graduate school. Even while working in the electronics industry, he was always searching, deep down, for “a job to which he could devote his life.” In his late 20s, amid a period of uncertainty and soul-searching, he discovered craft beer.
He traveled to breweries across the country, witnessed the dedication of the brewers, and learned that beer had become an integral part of local culture. He then underwent training in Portland, Oregon, and upon returning to Japan, spent a year apprenticing at Iwami Beer Co., Ltd. in Shimane Prefecture. That was the moment when “what he wanted to keep making for the rest of his life” began to take concrete shape.
Craft beer is a craft that involves engaging with ingredients, the land, and people. Mr. Setoguchi was captivated by its depth and eventually came to strongly desire, “I want to brew my own beer in a place of my own choosing.”
The Birth of a Small Brewery Supported by the Community
Eight years after moving to Kochi, Mr. Setoguchi opened a brewery in Kami City.
His first workshop was an old, turnkey property offered to him by a local resident who said, “I can rent this to you cheaply.” He polished the floors, painted the walls, built the equipment himself, and handled the entire brewing process all by himself. It was truly a start from scratch, but with nothing but his determination to “brew here in this region,” Mr. Setoguchi continued working quietly.
Eventually, after being featured in newspapers and on television, orders skyrocketed. Even brewing twice a day wasn’t enough to keep up, and his exhaustion reached its peak.
It was then that a local resident asked, “You’re in a bind, aren’t you?” and volunteered to help him apply labels for a full six months.
It was the moment when the entire community embraced him, a newcomer to the area. Mr. Setoguchi says he felt strongly that “I’m not brewing beer alone. I’m brewing it together with the community.”
Beer that can only be brewed in Kochi. A philosophy that puts the ingredients front and center.
At the heart of Mr. Setoguchi’s beer-making is always the “ingredients.” His first projects featured Kochi-grown yuzu, rice from terraced fields, sansho pepper, and Tosa bunkwan.
“I make the ingredients the stars, not just a subtle accent,” he says. For ingredients that impart astringency, he designs the beer to envelop them; for those where he wants to bring out the aroma, he refines the profile through fermentation temperature and hops. He creates harmony in the beer while respecting the individuality of each ingredient. Although the malt currently comes from Germany, he repeatedly tests saccharification efficiency and flavor compatibility, blending them over and over to find the optimal solution.
This approach—working backward from the ingredients to define “the meaning of brewing in Kochi”—gives the beer an unshakable core.
Mr. Setoguchi explains, “The taste of the beer is shaped by the very background of the ingredients.”
The producers’ passion, the local climate, and the changing seasons—all of these are part of the beer. That is precisely why placing the ingredients at the center is also an act of encapsulating the very essence of Kochi itself within the beer.
A Return to Our Roots Amid the COVID-19 Pandemic: The Birth of “Regional Beers”
The COVID-19 pandemic struck the brewery, which had been growing steadily. Sales plummeted by half, forcing the company to furlough its employees. However, this “forced hiatus” led Mr. Setoguchi to return to his roots.
A strong passion—“to brew beer for the community”—was rekindled in his heart.
This led to the creation of region-exclusive beers such as “Shimanto Bushukan Ale” and “Hidaka Village Fruit Tomato Ale.” Following a newspaper feature, requests poured in from roadside stations across the prefecture, and collaborative regional beers began to emerge one after another.
Beer made with local ingredients, crafted with local people, and enjoyed locally.
It was more than just a product; it served as a medium for telling the stories of the land.
“Wa-Jo Kölsch”: Where Japanese and Western Fermentation Cultures Meet
Mr. Setoguchi’s workshop features a “koshiki,” which is a rare sight in a brewery.
Here, rice, sweet potatoes, chestnuts, and heirloom corn are steamed over an open flame and then converted into glucose over the course of 48 hours in an amazake saccharification tank.
Furthermore, we developed “Wajo,” a unique fermentation technique that combines sake yeast with beer yeast.
The fruity aroma and crisp, clean finish produced by this process were reminiscent of “Kölsch,” a beer style traditionally brewed in the Cologne region of western Germany, so we named it Wajo Kölsch.
The aroma, a harmonious blend of the delicacy of sake yeast and the robustness of beer yeast, is the magic of fermentation—something that can never be replicated through cooking.
He continues to take bold risks by incorporating local ingredients, such as using “kaya nuts” in place of hops.
This beer, where Japanese and Western fermentation cultures intersect, embodies Mr. Setoguchi’s philosophy.
“Using local ingredients, local water, and creating it with local people.” This approach is giving birth to a new culture of fermentation.
The “smooth finish” created by Ryugakudo’s hard water
The area has such limestone-rich strata that Ryugado Cave—one of Japan’s three great limestone caves—is located on the mountain where the brewery stands. The brewery’s well water originates from an underground water source within this mountain; having flowed underground for over 100 million years, it is a moderately hard water rich in minerals and magnesium. While many breweries in Japan brew with soft water, here they can brew using water whose quality is closer to that of European ale culture.
Mr. Setoguchi says, “The water determines the direction of the flavor.”
Moderately hard water provides not only sweetness and umami but also forms the backbone of bitterness and astringency. This water is what supports the “clean finish”—a smooth, unbroken line that flows seamlessly from the aroma to the aftertaste.
This hard water, which shares its origins with Ryugado Cave, gives Kochi Campagne Brewery’s beers a unique crispness and depth, creating a character found nowhere else.
“Beer for Sharing.” Promoting the Monobe River Basin Brand!
Mr. Setoguchi’s dream is to develop the entire Monobe River basin into a single brand. He hopes to create a place where visitors can fully experience the charm of this region through dining, lodging, and hands-on activities.
An essential part of that experience is a beverage that brings people together around the same table to share a toast and laughter. To appeal to both beer lovers and those who aren’t fond of beer, he has made the development of low-alcohol and non-alcoholic beers a priority for the future.
Preparations are also underway to welcome a video production team to share the stories behind the ingredients and the producers’ passion.
Co-creating and conveying inspiration. With this philosophy in mind, Mr. Setoguchi continues to brew beer today that could only be born in this region.
