Located in Usuki in Oita prefecture, Yamadaya, the well renowned “fugu (puffer fish)” restaurant, was established in 1905. The area where the restaurant first opened was called “Uotanna” and served the many fishermen who worked nearby. Specializing in udon noodles and inari sushi early in its history, it expanded to other Japanese cuisine, moving to its current location in the early Showa era. Under the third generation owner, there are now 2 locations in Tokyo and the store in Nishi Azabu has earned 3 Michelin stars 9 years in a row.
Shimonoseki is most popular for fugu, and while it’s true that Usuki does not have a very long history associated with fugu, it was enjoyed as a special treat for celebrations. The fugu in this area has a distinct firmness and concentrated flavor due to the strong current. Most of the fugu from this area was shipped out to Tokyo and Shimonoseki, leaving little for locals to enjoy. In the 1960’s, Yamadaya began serving fugu to the locals, so they could enjoy the local delicacy. Since it already had a great reputation in other parts of the nation, people flocked to enjoy the fugu at the source.
At Yamadaya, fugu is served on the same day it is caught. Most restaurants allow it to settle overnight, because it is easier to slice thinly. Fresh fugu is difficult to slice, so each piece tends to be a bit thicker, bringing out the full flavor of the fugu. This ended up being an advantage, leading the third generation proprietress to comment “visitors can enjoy the freshest fugu in Usuki”. “
The building blends in well with the traditional structures in this town. There are 6 private rooms with the largest room accommodating up to 100 people. There are tables set up along the windows with a view of the garden, and guests are escorted there for dessert. “It is our mission to always extend the very best for our guests, just as our ancestors taught us.” True to her word, there is true hospitality in every aspect of their service. We recommend you reserve a seat at Yamadaya to enjoy the very best fugu if you are ever in Usuki.
