King of charcoal, Kishu high grade charcoal ”Kihachi Gama”

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Legendary charcoal making process from the Tang Dynasty brought by Kukai

”Binchotan” is known as high grade charcoal. Kishu is known as the ”home of charcoal” since about 70% of charcoal is made in Kishu. It is said that originally, the high grade charcoal ”binchotan”, got its name from ”Binchuya Chozaemon” which made charcoal in the Edo era.

During the Edo era, a large amount of Kishu ”binchotan” was shipped to Osaka and Edo. Its fire was strong and long lasting, so it was regarded as a first grade product. It is said that after a while, Kishu’s technology was transferred to Kochi and Miyazaki, which lead to the creation of Tosa and Hyuga ”binchotan”. Charcoal burning technology is said to have originally been brought to Japan from China by Kukai, who had studied in China. So it stands to reason that the charcoal in Kishu, which is Kukai’s home town, is of high quality.

We visited ”Kihachi Gama”, the studio belonging to Kihachi Hirota who is designated as a ”Kishu binchotan instructor and artisan” by Wakayama prefecture. Hirota was trained by his father from a young age, and has continued the traditional methods after becoming independent.

The importance of timing

”If you simply want to make regular charcoal, you only need 1 year of experience.” Hirota said. But if you want to make really good quality charcoal, ”even I need more experience.” he added. When struck together, ”authentic binchotan” makes a hard, metallic sound like a wooden clapper.
Many years of training and experience are required in order to make a ”genuine” product. The timing of when the charcoal is removed from the furnace is most important. Only experience and good instinct can determine this timing.
Hirota pays close attention to the furnace, and will remove the charcoal if he deems the timing to be right, regardless of whether it is day or night. This is because he is a true craftsman who has devoted his life to creating charcoal. This is where authentic ”binchotan” is created by a true craftsman.

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Kihachi Gama
Tanabe, Wakayama prefecture
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