Yusuke Kawata of “Omishima Minna no Winery” moved to Omishima in Ehime Prefecture on his own to grow grapes and make wine. Having traveled across the country from north to south to study winemaking at various wineries, Kawata’s goal on Omishima is to create wines whose flavors capture the island’s unique charm.

I moved to Omishima after sensing its potential as a wine-producing region

Mr. Kawata, who was interested in winemaking, attended a university in Yamanashi Prefecture—a major hub for Japanese wine—and spent his college years visiting renowned wineries across the country to gain practical experience. Shortly before graduating, he had the opportunity to participate in the “Project to Revitalize Omishima,” launched by architect Toyo Ito, which sparked his interest in winemaking on Omishima.

Ito, who has won numerous architectural awards both in Japan and abroad and enjoys worldwide acclaim, is also a figure who has actively engaged in regional revitalization beyond the realm of architecture. His vision—to utilize the island’s landscape and resources to foster new industries and attract people—resonated deeply with Kawata.

High-quality grapes are an essential prerequisite for winemaking. Kawata realized that Oshima’s climate closely resembles that of Katsunuma in Yamanashi Prefecture—Japan’s premier wine-producing region—and, convinced that this land would surely yield excellent grapes, he decided to embark on winemaking with Mr. Ito and his team.

“The scenery of the Seto Inland Sea is truly magnificent. It’s very similar to Shizuoka, where I was born and raised—the sea is close by, it feels wonderful, and the people who live here are kind. I wanted to try growing grapes and making wine here.” In 2015, Kawata moved to Omishima on his own. He leased abandoned farmland—which had become a challenge for the island—planted grapevines, and began cultivating grapes.

The constant trial and error is challenging, but it’s also fun

Although he has a deep knowledge of wine, grape growing was a first-time challenge for Mr. Kawata. He began by consulting local farmers who knew the land intimately to select high-quality vineyards suitable for grape cultivation. “The soil on Omishima is sandy loam formed from weathered granite, which drains well and is ideal for growing grapes. However, it also has poor water retention, so we have to take that into account. “I’m working on this while learning various techniques from local farmers, such as adding compost to activate the soil’s microorganisms,” says Kawata. His commitment to using locally sourced fertilizers stems from his desire to preserve the unique character of the land. He also values grape cultivation that is deeply rooted in this region, going so far as to handcraft the materials for his trellises with the help of a local shipyard.

We grow a variety of grape varieties, including the popular Chardonnay, Muscat Bailey A—the first variety developed in Japan—and Albariño, which originates from coastal regions of Spain and Portugal where the climate is similar to that of the Seto Inland Sea. “I chose Chardonnay because it’s grown all over Japan, so I thought it would be easier to discern the terroir. Koshu is also a famous variety, but I felt I might be too constrained by its name, so I’m not growing it at the moment. I’m experimenting with various varieties—looking for ones that are disease-resistant, high-yielding, and well-suited to the island—but it’s going to take quite some time to find the right answer,” he says. Both cultivation methods and variety selection are a constant process of trial and error.

Wines raised on the island, crafted at a small winery by the sea

The grapevines planted in 2015 bore fruit for the first time in 2016, but unfortunately, the entire crop was devoured by wild boars, so the following year, 2017, marked the long-awaited first harvest. The harvested grapes were vinified at a winery outside the prefecture, resulting in the birth of Omishima’s first-ever wine—a truly historic milestone. Furthermore, in 2019, a winery was established on the grounds of “Omishima Ikoi no Ie,” an accommodation facility renovated from a former elementary school. This made it possible to produce wine that is 100% Omishima-grown in both name and reality.

Despite various design constraints, Mr. Kawata poured everything he had learned into the winery, striving to incorporate as many of his personal preferences as possible. One such feature is the gravity flow system, which utilizes the elevation difference to move raw materials to tanks and aging vessels. He explains that this method places less strain on the grapes than using pumps, allowing their natural flavors to shine through. For the tanks, after carefully weighing the pros and cons of options such as enamel, resin, and concrete, they ultimately opted for custom-made stainless steel tanks from Slovenia. They also introduced French oak barrels, both five-year-old and three-year-old. While new barrels impart a strong woody aroma, the flavor becomes milder with use, deepening the harmony with the wine. Selecting the right barrels based on their age-specific characteristics is another of Mr. Kawata’s key commitments.

First, a wine that more people will enjoy

Mr. Kawata aims to create “truly Japanese” wine. “Rather than striving to meet Western standards, I want to cherish the flavors that emerge from Japan’s climate and soil, using grapes grown right here in Japan. I believe there is genuine value in the ‘truly Japanese’ wine that results from this approach. The lightness that was once described as ‘like water’ is, when you look at it another way, a gentleness that complements any dish. It’s unpretentious and comes alive at the dinner table. That, I feel, is what a ‘Japanese-style’ wine is all about,” he says.

A pleasant life on Omishima, surrounded by grapes and wine

It has been 10 years since Mr. Kawata moved to Omishima. While there have been significant changes in grape cultivation and winemaking, he says these past 10 years have also been a whirlwind of changes for him personally.

“I came to Omishima alone, but then I met my wife, we got married, and we had a child. It’s been a decade in which the meaning of my life shifted from ‘coming here to grow grapes and make wine’ to ‘living here.’ Even though I sometimes feel a bit of inconvenience regarding infrastructure and such, every day is fulfilling, and I am truly satisfied with my life on Omishima,” he says.

The island’s current population is approximately 5,000. While the original resident population is on the decline, the number of people moving to the island from elsewhere is reportedly increasing. The reasons for moving vary from person to person, but many cite a desire to live in the Seto Inland Sea, a wish to contribute to the island’s revitalization—such as through the Regional Revitalization Corps—or a decision to settle here after falling in love with the place during a visit. Even without moving permanently, some people maintain a dual-residence lifestyle, keeping their primary address and job elsewhere. “I wonder if the number of people leaving the island will eventually be overtaken by the number of people moving in?” Kawata says with a laugh.

Wines from a small island in the Seto Inland Sea

While Omishima has many charms, it also faces its share of challenges. Adapting to the climate changes caused by global warming in recent years is a serious issue. In particular, the summer of 2024 brought life-threatening heat, forcing both people and the grapes to struggle just to survive.

Furthermore, according to Mr. Kawata, neither the grapes nor the wine have yet reached a satisfactory level in terms of quality or technique. “I haven’t yet established what ‘the taste of Omishima’ means to me,” he says. “So, my first priority is to clarify that. My goal is to create a wine that expresses the atmosphere of Omishima—a wine that is approachable and full of depth, one that allows you to feel the sea and the wind of Omishima.”

His immediate goals are to produce wines with a flavor he finds satisfying and to get the islanders—who aren’t accustomed to drinking wine—to try their wines. Beyond that, winning an award at the Japan Wine Competition is his primary objective, and eventually, he hopes to compete in international competitions. Mr. Kawata’s dreams continue to expand.

The post Our goal is to create wines that capture the essence and atmosphere of the Seto Inland Sea. “Omishima Minna no Winery” / Imabari City, Ehime Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Yuri Kawana serves as both the representative and head brewer at Kawakei Shoten. While honoring tradition, she embraces new techniques and challenges, approaching sake brewing with the philosophy that “tradition is preserved only by pushing boundaries.” In particular, the flagship brand “Koganesawa” captivates a wide range of people—from beginners to connoisseurs—with its rich aroma and smooth finish. What does Yuri value most in her pursuit of crafting sake that stands out?

Established 120 years ago. “Kawakei Shoten” was founded by a merchant family with ties to the Date clan.

In 1902, the first-generation Keiji Kawana founded “Kawakei Shoten” in Wakuya Town, Toda District, in northeastern Miyagi Prefecture. The company traces its roots to a hardware merchant who served the Date clan of the Sendai Domain. Following the Land Tax Reform, which granted him farmland, he relocated to Misato Town, located south of Wakuya Town. Although Misato Town was known since ancient times for its fertile soil and thriving rice production, the land acquired by the Kawana family was largely marshy and unsuitable for rice cultivation. Consequently, they turned their attention to sake brewing as a livelihood independent of agriculture and decided to establish a brewery.

Continuing to produce unique sake using the Yamahai brewing method

Since its founding, Kawakei Shoten has been committed to the “Yamahai-style brewing” method, which utilizes natural lactic acid bacteria to cultivate the shubo (yeast starter). The shubo is the process of cultivating yeast to create the foundation for fermentation, and it is a crucial factor that determines the flavor of sake. Because this method is time-consuming, labor-intensive, and requires a high level of skill, the brewery once limited production to about 60% of its capacity and relied on “sokujo-zukuri” (rapid fermentation), which involves directly adding artificially produced lactic acid, to make up the difference. However, Yamahai-style sake now accounts for 90% of production. Yuri explains the reason: “Yamahai-style brewing allows each brewery to express its unique character, enabling us to convey the distinctive flavor of Kawakei Shoten. I feel it is indispensable to Kawakei Shoten today.”

Carefully brewed using locally sourced rice and water, “Koganesawa” is characterized by its delicate and refined flavor and is highly regarded as a sake that pairs well with meals. Another reason for its popularity is that it tastes delicious at any temperature—whether served chilled, lukewarm, or hot. The name originates from the fact that it was brewed by a merchant from Wakuya Town, a region famous for gold mining.

The Role of an Only Daughter Raised in an Era of Declining Interest in Sake

For Yuri, having a sake brewery as part of her everyday surroundings since childhood was simply a given, but she says she never gave much thought to the history and craftsmanship that lay within it. However, as she grew older and came into contact with the memories of her community and family, she gradually began to understand its significance.

Partly because sake consumption plummeted during her formative years, she had come to view sake brewing as an “unrewarding job.” However, the Great East Japan Earthquake of March 2011 changed her perspective. Her family home collapsed, and since restoration took time, she began to reflect on the significance of being born as the only daughter of a family that ran a sake brewery.

Learning every aspect of sake brewing from scratch and aspiring to become a master brewer

In the wake of the earthquake, Yuri, the only daughter of the Kawake family, began to consider taking over the family business. Regardless of whether she would actually take over the business, she decided to find out what sake brewing was really like, so she participated in a 40-day training course held at the Tokyo Office of the National Research Institute of Brewing (which was merged into the headquarters in Hiroshima Prefecture in 2015). The National Research Institute of Brewing is a government research institute dedicated to studying the quality of alcoholic beverages and brewing techniques; it also offers educational programs that attract sake brewers from across the country. “Once I tried it, I found sake brewing to be quite interesting,” she recalls with a laugh.

That feeling encouraged her to learn sake brewing from scratch, and in 2012, she joined Kawakei Shoten. She says she was initially confused and knew nothing, but as she learned from those around her, she gradually began to discover the appeal of sake brewing. Then, following her father’s passing, she took on the responsibility of sake brewing as the head brewer in 2019.

Assessing the quality of the ingredients to craft a delicious sake

Yuri is particular about washing the rice by hand. While she does use some machinery, she says that washing 5-kilogram batches by hand allows her to closely monitor for broken grains and check the rice’s water absorption, making it easier to achieve the desired sake profile. In recent years, rice has tended to become harder, and since the washing method can significantly affect the quality of the sake, she pays the utmost attention to this process. When washing, she explains that she does not scrub the rice vigorously as one would with table rice, but rather washes it gently, with the aim of gently removing the bran.

Striving to produce better sake, we are exploring new flavors at Kawakei Shoten

Kawakei Shoten’s current sake brewing is guided by the theme of “brewing with a pure heart, always keeping our drinkers in mind.” To achieve this, the brewery strictly adheres to the “ginjo-style” method, which involves long-term, low-temperature fermentation from the koji-making stage through the yeast starter and mash. This process ensures the sake develops a clean, refined flavor.

However, the brewery notes, “Compared to other companies’ koji, ours has a somewhat subdued character, so we’d like to try our hand at producing a more robust koji in the future.” Their goal is to create sake with both clarity and a solid structure.

“Koganesawa’s Position”: A Reassessment Amid the COVID-19 Pandemic

Amid declining demand for sake during the COVID-19 pandemic, Yuri chose to dedicate time to reevaluating the brand. As a result, she says the appeal and positioning of “Koganesawa” have become much clearer. The goal is to pursue a sake that “harmonizes with the dining table” and pairs well with any dish, while remaining a constant presence in people’s lives. To that end, she is determined to “continue taking on new challenges and create even more delicious sake.”

Though not flashy, it complements food and enriches the drinker’s experience. It is this accumulation of such moments that represents the value Kawakei Shoten has upheld for 120 years. “Koganesawa” will continue to evolve and remain beloved for years to come.

The post Cherishing the bounty of this land, we offer sake that can only be enjoyed at Kawakei Shoten. Yuri Kawana, 7th-generation owner of Kawakei Shoten / Misato Town, Enda District, Miyagi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Misato Town is located in the northeastern part of Miyagi Prefecture. In this region, where agriculture is deeply rooted in daily life—with rice paddies and fields accounting for about 70% of the town’s land—”Butai Farm Co., Ltd.” operates large-scale greenhouse facilities for lettuce production. In addition to crop cultivation, production, and product development, the company also handles logistics and agricultural consulting, pursuing a diversified agricultural business model. By collaborating with farmers and companies nationwide, it has grown to generate annual consolidated group sales of 6.1 billion yen. Behind this success lies a unique management strategy that transcends the boundaries of traditional agriculture.

A long-established farm that has pioneered agricultural digital transformation, transcending the boundaries of a family-run business

The Hariu family has been farming since 1720. A major turning point came when Nobuo Hariu, the 15th generation and current President and CEO of Butai Farm Co., Ltd., took over the family business.

At a time when family-run operations were the norm, Nobuo recognized early on the critical issues of an aging farming population, labor shortages, and a lack of successors. He actively embraced digital transformation (DX) using cutting-edge technology and invested in new equipment. Through management decisions unbound by conventional wisdom, he laid the groundwork for a large-scale farm that transcended the framework of a family business. Behind this was a profound sense of urgency. Since joining the family business, he had worked long hours every day, thinking, “If things continue this way, will we ever achieve a sustainable model, no matter how long we keep working?” It was this realization that prompted him to fundamentally reevaluate the business.

“Sustainable Agriculture” as Envisioned by the 15th Generation of a Farming Family with a History of About 300 Years

“The 15th head of the family married at the age of 22 and succeeded to the family headship from the 14th head the following year. Given the custom among farming families that children typically live under the head of the household until around the age of 50, I think that was a rather early decision. ‘Just as the Tokugawa clan returned political power to the Emperor in the 15th generation, the 15th generation tends to mark a major turning point. That’s exactly why you must hold your ground,’ he was often told,” explained Nobuhiro Hariu, the 16th-generation head and a director of Stage Farm.

In the 1980s, when the 15th-generation head took over the family estate, agriculture was undergoing a major transition toward modernization. It was an era when individual effort alone was insufficient, and investment in agricultural machinery and facilities capable of supporting large-scale operations was essential. In fact, among the farmers who took the bold step of making significant capital investments and incorporating their businesses during this period, there are cases where they subsequently expanded their operations and achieved growth. On the other hand, it is also true that farmers who remained with traditional family-run operations found themselves in a difficult situation. Nobuhiro intuitively grasped the changing times and sought to strengthen the management foundation with the goal of “sustainable agriculture.”

The key to expanding the possibilities of agriculture lay in the “system”

The decline of agriculture stems from a complex interplay of factors, including weather, soil conditions, and a shortage of workers. None of these issues can be resolved by individual farmers acting alone. That is precisely why at Butai Farm, rather than simply continuing along the same path as before, we first envisioned what Japanese agriculture should look like five or ten years from now, and then worked backward from that vision to design our management strategies and technology adoption plans.

From Family-Run to Team-Driven: Behind the Scenes of Scaling Up

The reason Stage Farm was able to transition from a family-run operation to a large-scale farm was its ability to involve people outside the family and manage the business as a team.

They expanded their business by leasing land from aging farmers and entering into contracts spanning 5 to 10 years. Rather than simply securing land, they prioritized building trusting relationships with the local community and have worked to support farmers in incorporating their operations and developing new sales channels. The journey has not been smooth; through repeated dialogue—addressing contract terms and addressing concerns about the future—they have sought a sustainable model for the entire region.

Significant improvements in production efficiency through “management transparency” implemented by the 16th-generation leader

In 2020, Nobuhiro, the 16th-generation successor, joined Stage Farm. Nobuhiro began by teaching himself bookkeeping and accounting, and started by reading the income statement (PL), balance sheet (BS), and cash flow statement to gain an understanding of the company’s financial health. By making the company’s operations transparent, he identified tasks best performed by people, processes that could be automated, and areas for improvement, and took action on each one step by step.

Today, the company is implementing a series of initiatives to modernize agriculture, including the operation of “Misato Green Base”—one of Japan’s largest leaf lettuce production facilities—and the introduction of IoT and AI technologies.

“Misato Green Base,” which achieves approximately 80 times the production efficiency of open-field cultivation

Mr. Nobuhiro believes that agriculture falls into two categories: “agriculture that supports our daily meals—the agriculture we must rely on for sustenance”—and “luxury agriculture that offers added value for enjoyment.” Stage Farm aims for the former: to deliver the vegetables we eat every day with consistent quality and at fair prices.

At the heart of this endeavor is the “Misato Green Base,” a next-generation plant factory located in Misato Town, Tōda District, approximately 60 km north of Sendai City. Using hydroponics in a massive greenhouse stretching 500 meters deep, the facility ships approximately 40,000 heads of leaf lettuce daily, unaffected by weather or seasonal changes. Leaf lettuce is well-suited to automation and year-round cultivation in plant factories, making it a crop that easily balances consistent quality with high-efficiency production. Production efficiency is said to be approximately 80 times that of open-field cultivation. By studying domestic and international examples, Stage Farm has built its own unique operational model.

Thanks to planned production, the waste rate is virtually zero. Furthermore, by using electricity as the primary energy source and implementing solar sharing, they have established a system that reduces both environmental impact and costs. This facility, which balances stable supply with operational efficiency, stands as a symbolic presence supporting “agriculture that must be sustained.”

Generating electricity on farmland: The option of solar sharing

Agriculture is, at its core, an industry that converts solar energy into food. At Stage Farm, we have introduced “solar sharing,” a system in which solar panels are installed on poles erected on farmland. By establishing a system that produces both rice and electricity on farmland, we are transforming the land from “underutilized assets” into “income-generating real estate.”

Turning Agriculture into a Profitable Industry: Simple Management Based on Volume and Price

At its core, farming is a business. While family-run operations tend to rely on rough estimates, the “quantity × unit price” approach is essential for increasing revenue. Therefore, expanding farmland, adopting double or triple cropping, securing pricing power, and implementing rigorous cost management are all critical.

At Butai Farm, rather than leaving shipping entirely to the JA (Agricultural Cooperative), they set their own prices. They observe market trends and trading activities to understand the selling prices of various wholesalers. Based on this, they visit retail stores in person to negotiate prices and secure direct contracts. Regarding necessary expenses such as fertilizers, they constantly explore how to procure high-quality products at the lowest possible cost. Even for fertilizers that must be imported, they make every effort to minimize the use of middlemen.

To pass on local cuisine to the next generation

Nobuhiro, who has extensive overseas experience including studying in the United States, believes that “no country has a regional food culture as rich as Japan’s.” He feels a strong sense of urgency that this richness is being lost due to a shortage of people to carry on the tradition.

He identified four pillars necessary for passing on the region’s food culture to the next generation: energy, food, employment, and education. Building on the foundation of a “town where energy and food are reliably available,” the plan is first to create jobs, and then to provide distinctive educational opportunities. As a local agricultural producer, he is actively engaged in food and agriculture education, conducting special classes at junior high schools and other institutions. By teaching students about the structure of agriculture and business management, he promotes career education and is advancing a vision to build a town where people feel, “I want to come here.” Through the creation of systems—including energy sharing—he aims to make agriculture a profitable industry and speaks with conviction about raising the food self-sufficiency rate, which stood at 38% in fiscal year 2023, “to at least 50% or higher.”

Behind these words lies more than just a numerical target. It is a determination to create jobs in the region and build a future where the next generation can take pride in agriculture. Stage Farm’s challenge is not merely the growth story of a single company. It is a practical effort to pass on the region’s potential to the next generation.

The post Transforming agriculture into a profitable industry. “Butai Farm”: An agricultural enterprise nurturing the region’s future / Sendai City, Miyagi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Aomori Prefecture is known as Japan’s leading apple-producing region, accounting for approximately 60% of the nation’s total apple output. Within the prefecture, about 50 varieties are cultivated, primarily including “Fuji” apples, which offer a good balance of sweetness and tartness, and “Tsugaru” apples, which are juicy and tender.To maintain apple yields, pest and disease control measures and breed improvement are essential. The research for these efforts is conducted by the “Aomori Prefectural Industrial Technology Center Apple Research Institute” (hereinafter referred to as the Aomori Prefectural Industrial Technology Center Apple Research Institute), located in Kuroishi City, Aomori Prefecture. This facility has become indispensable to apple farmers in Aomori Prefecture.

A facility that supports and safeguards the quality of apples within the prefecture

It is said that apples originated in the region stretching from the Tianshan Mountains in China to the Caucasus region of Russia. From there, apples spread to Greece, Rome, Europe, and eventually to America. Around that time, the Meiji government in Japan imported saplings of various fruit trees from abroad and distributed them nationwide. At the time, apples were mainly imported from the United States, France, and the United Kingdom, and the saplings distributed to this prefecture were American apple varieties suitable for fresh consumption.This marked the beginning of apple cultivation in Aomori Prefecture, with a focus on apples for fresh consumption. In particular, the Tsugaru region—including Kuroishi City and Hirosaki City in the western part of the prefecture—is well-suited for apple cultivation due to its cool climate and significant temperature differences between day and night, which enhance the fruit’s sugar content.

However, as cultivation expanded from the 1890s onward, diseases and pests made harvesting difficult, leading to an increase in farmers abandoning their orchards. Consequently, to ensure effective pest and disease control, the “Heika (Apple) Experiment Station”—meaning “apples introduced from the West”—was established in 1931.In 2009, it was renamed the “Aomori Prefectural Industrial Technology Center Apple Research Institute,” and in addition to pest and disease control, it also conducts research on developing new varieties.

Sharing research results with farmers to ensure a consistent annual harvest  

The Aomori Prefectural Industrial Technology Center Apple Research Institute is located in the lush natural environment of Kuroishi City, Aomori Prefecture, and owns 24.8 hectares of farmland on its premises.“Here, we cultivate a wide variety of apples—including ‘Fuji,’ ‘Ohrin,’ and ‘Jonagold,’ which are in high demand among consumers and have high cultivation rates (in fact, we grow hundreds of varieties). We conduct year-round research on tree conditions, fruit set, pesticide application, and the timing of pest outbreaks, and by sharing these results with farmers, we help ensure stable yields,” says Director Noriaki Fukuda.

They quantify factors such as temperature fluctuations, precipitation, hours of sunshine, and snowfall, and conduct detailed research on leaf fall, budding, growth conditions, ripening progress, and quality. “Since the climate varies even within the prefecture, we conduct surveys for each region. It’s painstaking work, but it’s very important research,” he says. It is precisely because of this detailed data that they can accurately convey apple cultivation methods to farmers.

Apple cultivation involves pruning during the winter while considering sunlight exposure, and limiting the number of flowers in the spring when they bloom. This process ensures that each apple receives sufficient nutrients. Then, in the fall, leaves touching the fruit are removed, and the fruit is rotated—a process called “tama-mawashi”—to expose it evenly to sunlight, resulting in a uniform red color throughout. By carefully performing these maintenance tasks, they are able to achieve a consistent harvest every year.

Efforts to reduce pesticide use while combating pests

“It is said that pests and diseases are the biggest weakness of apples, making pesticide-free cultivation very difficult. Of course, we support farmers who wish to reduce pesticide use, but due to factors like global warming, we are now seeing insects and diseases that were previously unseen, so reducing pesticide use is not easy,” he explains the current situation.

He explains that the most troublesome pests include “spider mites,” which parasitize leaves and inhibit photosynthesis, and the “peach fruit moth,” which burrows into the fruit. Since damage from these pests renders the fruit unsellable, they are the farmers’ worst enemies. While pesticides and mating disruption are the primary control methods, Mr. Fukuda notes that a major current problem is the persistence of infestation sources due to the increasing number of neglected orchards—left unmanaged because of an aging population and a shortage of workers.

Continuing research on pesticides that can withstand diseases previously unseen

Research is also being conducted on disease control, not just pest control.In addition to measures against “black spot disease”—which causes mold growth, cracks, and deformities—he notes that due to global warming, diseases previously unseen in Aomori Prefecture are now emerging. These include “brown spot disease,” which causes premature leaf drop and weakened tree vigor; as well as “anthracnose” and “ring spot disease,” which rot the fruit—diseases that were once only found in warmer regions.

Since diseases can change depending on the climate and other factors, relying on the same measures all the time can lead to pesticides becoming ineffective. Therefore, it is necessary to continue researching which pesticides work against specific diseases and when and how often to spray them effectively—making this a never-ending battle.

Efforts to Address the Shortage of Successors

“We are undertaking various initiatives to prevent the number of neglected orchards from increasing,” explains the Apple Research Institute. To make it easier for new farmers to enter the industry, the institute has created an “Apple Pest and Disease Control Calendar” that clearly outlines pesticide application schedules and pest and disease control measures. This calendar has been well-received even by veteran farmers and has reportedly become an indispensable tool for apple growers.

Additionally, to help the general public feel more connected to apples and to encourage new entrants into the industry, the institute holds an annual “Apple Research Institute Open House.” To foster interest in both the local area and the fruit, the event features public tours of the farmland, exhibitions of research findings, and consultations on fruit tree cultivation. “We’d be delighted if even a few more people became interested in apple farming and felt inspired to try it themselves,” they say with hope.

Meeting standards for taste and cultivation methods, and taking on the challenge of breeding varieties for the next generation

There are many apple varieties, and currently, “Fuji” is the best-selling variety, followed by “Tsugaru,” “Jonagold,” and “Ohrin,” with these four varieties accounting for about 80% of the market. Driven by the desire to “create the next big hit apple,” a new variety called “Benihatsumi” was developed in recent years. It is characterized by a rich flavor and a tart aftertaste.

Developing a new variety involves comprehensively evaluating factors such as firmness, acidity balance, and juice content. Mr. Fukuda expresses his enthusiasm for “Benihatsumi,” which took many years to perfect, stating that he aims to increase the number of growers and expand consumption. The Apple Research Institute conducts a wide range of activities, including research on cultivation techniques and pests and diseases, as well as providing guidance to farmers.Apple research is often highly detailed, and the results that can be produced in a single year are limited. However, these research findings are indispensable information for apple farmers and serve as a foundation for the next generation. Currently, efforts are underway to develop new varieties that are resistant to climate change and disease, so anticipation is growing for what delicious apples will be born in the future.

The post The “Aomori Prefectural Industrial Technology Center Apple Research Institute,” which supports apple farmers in Aomori / Kuroishi City, Aomori Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

“Yoheho~, yoheho~.”The “Yamaga Lantern Festival” features about a thousand women dancing gracefully to the folk song “Yoheho-bushi.” The lights flickering above the dancers’ heads are Yamaga lanterns, traditional crafts. Hirotaka Nakajima is the fourth-generation master of Yamaga lantern making. While grounded in tradition, he is not afraid to adapt to the times.

The ethereal lights flickering above the dancers’ heads are traditional crafts

————No bones, no flesh, Yoheho, Yoheho————

The “Yamaga Lantern Festival” features approximately 1,000 women dancing gracefully with supple movements to the folk song “Yoheho-bushi.” Held every August, it is a major event in Yamaga City that typically attracts over 100,000 visitors annually. Legend has it that the festival originated when the villagers of Yamaga guided Emperor Keiko, the 12th emperor, who had lost his way in thick fog, by holding torches aloft.​​The source of the fantastical light flickering above the dancers’ heads in the darkness of night is the “Kin-tōrō,” a type of Yamaga lantern that is a traditional craft.Although they appear to be made of metal from a distance, they are actually made of paper. Without using any wood or metal fittings, they are assembled into three-dimensional forms using only Japanese paper and a small amount of glue, weighing a mere 180 grams. Achieving the substantial and luxurious appearance that defies belief that they are made of paper requires exquisite craftsmanship, and their creation is entrusted to artisans known as “lantern masters.”

Hirotaka Nakashima is the fourth-generation member of a family of lantern makers with a history spanning over 100 years. While his great-grandfather and grandfather ran both a lantern-making business and a clock shop, his father’s generation focused solely on lantern-making, and today he operates “Yamaga Lantern Shop Nakashima,” a specialty store along the Buzen Kaido.Born as the second son in a family of lantern makers, Nakajima worked as a company employee until the age of 33. However, realizing that the craft would die out if none of his brothers took over the family business, he made a determined resolution. He became his father’s apprentice, entered the path of lantern making, and has continued on that path to this day.

He switched careers from a different industry and mastered the craft under his father, his master

Making the career switch from a different industry was not easy. Although he had watched his father create lanterns up close since childhood and had been training even before the switch, the skills of a traditional craftsman are not easily acquired. The production of Yamaga lanterns involves a continuous series of meticulous tasks that cause pain in the fingertips, eye strain, and stiff shoulders. It requires extraordinary concentration and perseverance. Moreover, he received relentless criticism from his father, his master.“But looking back now, I’m grateful to my father for treating me as a disciple rather than going easy on me just because I was his son,” says Nakajima. To be recognized as a lantern maker, one must undergo about 10 years of apprenticeship and have one’s skills acknowledged by other lantern makers. Nakajima received his certification in 2017, after he had already entered his 40s.

Yamaga lanterns feature traditional styles, including the aforementioned gold lanterns, as well as “Miyazukuri” (shrine-style), which takes inspiration from shrine and temple architecture such as main halls, gate towers, and five-story pagodas, and “Zashikizukuri” (parlor-style), which mimics traditional Japanese houses.In addition, there are many works created by the lantern makers themselves, resulting in a diverse and extensive range of styles. These are primarily used for the “dedicatory lanterns” described below, and some are designed to be displayed without a light. Furthermore, they are often displayed in local homes as substitutes for lanterns during the first Obon memorial service, and custom orders featuring family crests are also available.

There are three criteria for Yamaga lanterns: “use only hand-made Japanese paper and starch paste,” “the main components of the lantern must be hollow,” and “do not create overlapping edges on curved sections.”Consequently, the designs are free and diverse, with examples ranging from Benkei from the *Kanjincho* to trains and battleships. Among these, the gold lanterns attract particular attention, not only because they are the symbol of the Yamaga Lantern Festival but also because they represent a rite of passage for lantern artisans. They embody the full range of skills required of a lantern artisan, and successfully completing a gold lantern is considered the first step toward certification.

A traditional craft deeply rooted in the life of the local community

The creation of a gold lantern involves endless work precise to the millimeter.Thick washi paper, onto which the design has been traced, is cut and assembled. While this may sound simple, because the lantern is hollow and lacks a framework, its shape and structural integrity must be maintained solely through the layering of washi paper. This is why the Yamaga lantern is nicknamed the “boneless lantern.” This is also the reason behind the line in the folk song mentioned at the beginning: “No bones, no flesh.”

Since there are neither bones nor flesh, even the slightest misalignment in the layered washi paper causes the structure to collapse. And to ensure a perfect fit, the washi paper must be cut with absolute precision, without the slightest deviation. A gold lantern consists of approximately 200 parts and takes about three days from preparation to completion. Hearing Mr. Nakajima say, “To create a Yamaga lantern, you need the perseverance to see it through without losing focus,” I find myself nodding in agreement once again.

The lanterns made in this way are placed atop the dancers’ heads and are also used as dedication lanterns. Dedication lanterns are those commissioned by neighborhood associations and other groups from lantern artisans specifically for the festival; they are so named because they are dedicated to the local Ōmiya Shrine after being displayed during the festival period. There are no regulations regarding their shape, and the motifs are decided through consultation between the group and the lantern artisan.Every year, 27 to 28 lanterns are made, and after the dedication, they are stored and displayed in the “Lantern Hall” within the shrine. They are replaced with new lanterns one year later in August. “It happens every year, but it truly makes me happy when the clients are pleased. It’s the moment when I feel rewarded for all my hard work,” says Mr. Nakajima.

To Pass Tradition On to the Future, We Must Ask Questions

Legend has it that Yamaga lanterns originated about 2,000 years ago when the 12th Emperor Keikō was on a royal tour of the Tsukushi region and his path was blocked by thick fog; the people of Yamaga guided him using torches.Afterward, the people continued to offer torches to Omiya Shrine, which enshrines Emperor Keikō, and during the Muromachi period, these torches evolved into Yamaga lanterns. Then, in the Edo period, influential figures in the town began competing to create the most lavish lanterns for their offerings, leading to the full blossoming of the Yamaga lantern culture.

Currently, there are seven active lantern makers in total. Five of them are women and two are men, with most in their 50s and 60s.There are three apprentices aiming for certification. While the number of lantern makers has remained stagnant over the past few decades, all the apprentices are in their 20s. Nakajima believes, “The future of Yamaga lanterns is by no means a situation to be optimistic about, but it’s not one to be pessimistic about either.” However, he also notes that “questions” are necessary to pass the tradition on to the future.

“I want to expand the occasions where people purchase them not just for festivals, but as traditional crafts for everyday use. If their usage is limited, the tradition will only dwindle. To achieve that, I need to ask: What kinds of products will sell? How can we make Yamaga lanterns feel more accessible to consumers…?”

By constantly asking these questions, Nakajima strives to bring new creations to the world. “By making gradual updates in line with changing times and needs, there are surely traditions we can preserve.” Continuing to craft lanterns while holding these questions in mind—it is this accumulation of effort that will carry the light of Yamaga into the next generation.

The post Asking questions and keeping the light alive. “Yamaga Lantern Shop Nakashima” – Hirotaka Nakashima / Yamaga City, Kumamoto Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Located in Iizaka-machi, Fukushima City, “Momiyama Orchard” produces cherries, peaches, and apples. Kazuhiro Momiyama, the fifth-generation owner of this long-established orchard—which has been in operation since the 1890s—continues to produce superior fruit through relentless curiosity and daily research, including a commitment to natural soil cultivation.His wife, Tomomi, runs a farm stand and café that sells fresh fruit and original processed goods from the orchard, promoting the appeal of Fukushima’s prized fruits. “Nothing makes us happier than hearing people say our peaches and apples are delicious,” the couple smiles, their hearts united in this shared passion.

An Orchard and Family Bonds Passed Down Since the Meiji Era

Fukushima City offers high-quality fruit throughout the four seasons: strawberries in spring, cherries in early summer, peaches in summer, pears and grapes in autumn, and apples in early winter. Located in a basin surrounded by the Azuma Mountain Range and the Abukuma Highlands, the area enjoys a blessed climate that allows for the cultivation of both cold-climate and warm-climate fruits. Through continuous breeding improvements and technological innovations, a wide variety of fruits thrive here.

Located along the so-called “Fruit Line,” a stretch lined with such orchards, is “Yotsuba no Clover FARMERS GARDEN,” the direct sales shop and café of Momiyama Orchard. The pure white building, blending gently into the idyllic landscape, is particularly striking.

Matsuyama Orchard, a long-established orchard with a history spanning over 100 years since the 1890s, is located in Iizaka Town, Fukushima City, where dozens of orchards are scattered. They cultivate cherries, peaches, and apples, and Kazuhiro, the fourth-generation owner and son of the founder, has even received the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award.“Since I grew up hearing my father repeatedly say, ‘Farming is great,’ I had no hesitation whatsoever about taking over the family business,” Kazuhiro says with a smile. After graduating from university, he spent a year training as an intern at the Fukushima Prefectural Agricultural Comprehensive Center’s Fruit Tree Research Institute, and took over the family business at the age of 23.

Premium fruit nurtured by the temperature fluctuations unique to the basin

Fukushima is widely recognized as the “Fruit Kingdom.” Fukushima peaches are characterized by their bright red color, the result of abundant sunlight, and their high sugar content. Due to the significant temperature difference between day and night, sugar accumulates well in the fruit, making it easy to grow peaches with a strong sweetness. While Fukushima ranks second in the nation for peach production, it is by far the top consumer of peaches nationwide. In fact, residents of Fukushima Prefecture consume more than seven times the national average.

In Fukushima City, a wide variety of peaches are grown from late June to late September, and at Momoyama Orchard, we cultivate over a dozen different varieties in succession.Starting with the early-ripening “Hatsuhime,” followed by “Gyosei,” “Akatsuki,” and “Madoka,” and ending with the late-ripening “Yuzora” and “Sakura Hakuto,” this relay of diverse peach cultivation delivers the delicious flavors of the season.

Fukushima’s signature peach, “Akatsuki”

In the past, while many prefectures gave up on cultivating “Akatsuki” because they couldn’t overcome a single flaw during trial cultivation, only Fukushima Prefecture persisted without giving up and successfully overcame that flaw. Today, it has become a nationally recognized variety that represents Fukushima peaches.

“Thanks to the perseverance of the people of Fukushima, it has grown to its current size, and ‘Akatsuki’ is now synonymous with Fukushima,” Kazuhiro says with a smile. With its vibrant color, juiciness, and superb balance of sweetness and acidity, “Akatsuki” is popular as a mid-summer gift and for other occasions. We aim to harvest it every year just before Obon (late July to early August).

Rich in Minerals: Naturally Derived Soil Management

Kazuhiro, who tends to the fruit with love alongside his father, Kazuhiro, and with the help of part-time workers, speaks calmly: “I firmly believe in never compromising on our work.” He also focuses on natural soil cultivation, spreading crushed oyster shells from the Sanriku region—rich in minerals—onto the soil to harness the power of microorganisms, creating an eco-friendly approach.

Spring work begins with “bud thinning,” which involves reducing the number of buds before they bloom, cutting the total down from 100% to about 30%. This is followed by “fruit thinning,” where unwanted fruit is removed while the fruit is still small. Fruit thinning—removing fruit while it is young—is an essential step for producing high-quality fruit. Furthermore, he places great importance on maintaining healthy trees through winter pruning.

Delivering the Season’s Freshest Flavors Through a Variety of Peaches

You may have seen fruit in orchards covered with bags (or “skirts”). These are placed by hand, one by one, to protect the fruit from “rain burn”—a condition where the fruit splits open when heavy rain falls suddenly after a prolonged period of dry weather that has left the soil overly dry. By the time the fruit begins to color, the bags (skirts) are removed to allow sunlight to reach the fruit and promote coloring.Since the fruit won’t turn red all over unless it receives even light, a light-reflecting sheet is placed underneath. “The parts covered by leaves are particularly slow to color, so if you cut the leaves in half occasionally, they’ll start to color in about two days,” he explained.

Peaches turn red starting from the tip, and each variety reaches peak ripeness in about 10 days to two weeks.

Apparently, the ones with a vivid red color are sweeter and tastier. By performing these tasks in sequence, the relay of cultivating multiple peach varieties is completed. One of the real pleasures is savoring and comparing the various peach varieties harvested in season.

“My personal recommendation is ‘Yuzora.’ Compared to other varieties, it’s difficult to grow because it experiences a lot of physiological drop—where the fruit falls off naturally—but the flesh is dense, juicy, and smooth, making it incredibly delicious,” says Kazuhiro. He also recommends it for those who prefer firmer peaches.

Growing Delicious Fruit and Passing Agriculture on to the Future

Kazuhiro’s current challenges include taking on new challenges in fruit tree cultivation with an eye toward the future, and addressing labor shortages caused by the aging workforce in the orchard. “Since determining the optimal harvest time requires extensive experience, I handle the harvesting myself, except when my father helps out.” He is acutely aware of the difficulties in implementing IoT technology in an orchard, where years of experience and skilled techniques are essential.

“I’m thinking of reducing the cultivation area slightly in the future so I can focus more on each individual tree,” he shared honestly. “At the same time, I have a strong desire to preserve this region as a fruit-growing area, and I’m torn because I don’t want to create abandoned land while others around me are retiring due to old age.”

Although abnormal weather patterns have persisted in recent years, Kazuhiro says, “Striving daily amidst the harshness of nature to produce delicious fruit is what makes fruit farming interesting and is the pride of a professional orchardist.” While devoting himself to research and producing better fruit, he also considers the development and sustainability of agriculture in Fukushima.

Turning Freshly Picked Fruit into Exquisite Sweets and Processed Goods

Driven by the desire to “share the delicious fruit Kazuhiro has grown with such love with as many people as possible,” his wife, Tomomi, opened “Yotsuba no Clover FARMERS GARDEN,” a farm stand and café, in November 2019. Located along the “Fruit Line”—a prefectural road lined with tourist orchards—it operates only during the fruit harvest season, yet attracts many visitors from both within and outside the prefecture every year.

“My parents also ran a fruit farm, but even though they worked from early morning until late at night, they never got to hear directly from the customers who bought their produce, so I always wanted to open a farm stand someday,” Tomomi says with a smile. At the farm stand that fulfilled her long-held dream, they sell seasonal cherries, peaches, and apples that Kazuhiro has carefully cultivated, as well as handmade processed goods like jams and juices that highlight the natural flavor of the fruit.In the attached café space, desserts made with generous amounts of freshly picked fruit are a big hit. The “Luxurious! Whole Morning-Picked Peach Parfait,” which is both adorable and visually striking, is also a huge hit. On sunny days, you can enjoy desserts and drinks on the terrace while admiring the views of the surrounding mountains.

We want to share the appeal of Fukushima’s fruit with children and younger generations

One of the unique advantages of a direct sales shop is the ability to sell “B-grade” items—such as fruit with minor blemishes or smaller-than-average pieces—directly to customers. “These items are well-received by our customers, and when they return, they often buy jams made from the same fruit as souvenirs,” says Tomomi. It has been six years since she opened the direct sales shop and café she had long dreamed of.“I feel joy in sharing Kazuhiro’s delicious peaches with so many people, and in passing on the appeal of Fukushima’s agriculture and peaches to my own children,” she says with a beaming smile. “It also makes me happy to see the younger generation taking an interest in Fukushima’s fruit and agriculture through the café,” adds Kazuhiro, his face also lighting up with a smile.

Drawing energy from customers’ comments like “That was delicious,” the Momiyama couple work hand in hand to promote the appeal of Fukushima’s fruit. They continue to protect the precious orchard inherited from their ancestors with pride.

The post Kazuhiro and Tomomi Momiyama of Momiyama Orchard, who carefully cultivate Fukushima’s prized peaches using natural soil-building methods / Fukushima City, Fukushima Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

You could call him a thoroughbred. Born into the “Fumoto Kiln”—which boasts six climbing kilns, among the largest in the Kodai-yaki tradition with its nearly 400-year history—Naoyuki Inoue is the son of Yasuaki Inoue, considered a master of Kodai-yaki. While this privileged environment was a source of pride, it also meant he was constantly subject to comparison and judgment.

Is what I want to do really pottery?

The sound of firewood crackling fills the air. As the flames spread upward, seemingly racing up the slope of the climbing kiln and breathing life into the pottery, I see the history of Kodai-yaki—passed down unbroken for nearly 400 years—overlapping with this scene.

Kodai-yaki is one of Kyushu’s representative ceramics. Its origins are said to date back to 1632, when Hosokawa Tadatoshi, accompanied by potters, established a kiln at the foot of Mount Shodai in northwestern Kumamoto Prefecture.Characterized by a rustic, robust texture created using Shodai clay—rich in iron and small pebbles—and bold designs achieved by applying glazes made from local natural materials, such as straw ash and wood ash, its appeal lies in a simple yet profoundly deep presence.It was designated as a National Traditional Craft in 2003, and today, 11 kilns remain, primarily in Arao City and Minamikan Town, Tamana District.

Among them, the “Kodai-yaki Fumoto Kiln” in Fumoto, Arao City, is a renowned kiln that has produced many apprentices and boasts six climbing kilns—the largest number among existing Kodai-yaki kilns. The founder, Yasuaki Inoue, won the top prize at the Japan Folk Crafts Museum Exhibition and received awards at numerous other exhibitions; he is known as an indispensable figure in the development of Kumamoto’s traditional crafts.

Born in 1975 as Yasuaki’s eldest son, Naoyuki Inoue has incorporated his own identity into the craft’s approximately 400-year history and tradition. He is a popular artist renowned for his unique “slipware” (pottery decorated with a slip, a type of decorative clay) inspired by old British ceramics.As a child, he played with chipped pottery pieces as if they were a dollhouse set, and naturally assumed he would become a potter one day. However, during high school, he suddenly paused to reflect. Was pottery really what he wanted to do? Though he enrolled in a local design college while still uncertain, the answer remained elusive. Looking back on that time, Naoyuki lowers his eyebrows and laughs, saying, “To be honest, I was just drifting along.”

The Fusion of Traditional Kodai-yaki and Slipware

Naoyuki set out on a journey. He visited acquaintances of his brother Taishu in Tokyo, Tochigi, and Okinawa, and while he was shown pottery and workshops in each place, nothing really clicked. But for some reason, Koishiwara was different. Upon seeing the “Ota Tetsuzo Kiln,” a representative of Koishiwara-yaki, he naturally felt, “I want to study here.”After that, he spent four years apprenticing under the kiln’s founder, Tetsuzo Ota, before returning to his family’s Futomogama kiln. Feeling anxious as he watched his senior apprentices far ahead of him, he continued his training. But when he finally sat down at the potter’s wheel, Naoyuki felt at a loss. Now that he was actually in a position to create, he couldn’t see what he wanted to make.

The clue came from “pon-gaki,” one of the techniques he had learned under Mr. Ota. This decorative technique involves pouring glaze from a special container onto the surface of the vessel to create lines and patterns.Naoyuki sensed a kinship between this “pon-gaki” and “slipware”—pottery decorated with slip, a tradition originating in England—and sought “what he wanted to create” by studying old slipware and related literature. He eventually arrived at a unique style that fuses Kodai-yaki with slipware. He had found his identity within the approximately 400-year history and tradition of the craft.

Creations Born from Local Materials and Universal Designs

Naoyuki’s works utilize Kodai clay that he excavates himself. Just like traditional Kodai-yaki, he uses local natural materials: wood and straw for the ash used in glazes, and pine wood for firing fuel. Before the shaped clay has completely dried, he pours over it a mixture of clay dissolved in water, and then drips another color of clay dissolved in water from a syringe-like tool onto the surface to create patterns.

His designs are based on universal patterns selected from old British texts, which he reinterprets and reconstructs in his own unique way. This stems from his belief that “universal things have been passed down to the present precisely because people never grew tired of them.” The variations are diverse, ranging from wavy lines and crosses to shapes resembling ribbons. His free-flowing, dynamic lines reflect Naoyuki’s easygoing and carefree personality.

While Naoyuki’s style is now widely supported by consumers, he faced strong criticism when he first began, with critics claiming, “This is not traditional Kodai-yaki.” However, the words of a certain benefactor—“Even if nine out of ten people are against you, there is one who is on your side. I am on your side”—became a source of strength for Naoyuki and have sustained him to this day.

A Craftsmanship Rooted in the Earth and Fire

Naoyuki uses a six-chamber climbing kiln to fire his works. It was completed by Taishu approximately 50 years ago, in 1977. A climbing kiln, which requires continuous feeding of firewood and temperature management over several days, is much harder to control than a gas kiln. It is said that “it might take a lifetime to fully understand it” and that “the condition of the kiln determines the quality of the work.”Because conditions inside the kiln—such as temperature and oxygen levels—cannot be kept uniform, defects like cracks and warping are common; at the “Kodaiyaki Fumoto Kiln,” the yield rate remains around 60%. Even so, many ceramic artists are captivated by the beauty—beyond human understanding—woven from the ash and flames produced by the firewood. Naoyuki, however, states firmly, “I don’t want to use the climbing kiln as either the reason for the quality of my work or as an excuse.”This is because he believes that the method of firing is not what matters; rather, the quality of the finished piece itself should be the focus of evaluation.

The interior of the kiln deteriorates with repeated use. The “Kodai-yaki Fumoto Kiln” has long since exceeded its estimated lifespan of 100 firings and continues to be used while undergoing repeated partial repairs. Naoyuki is unconcerned, stating, “I’m not fixated on climbing kilns, and even if it becomes unusable, I have a plan in place, so it’s not a problem.” Yet he also acknowledges its appeal, noting, “There is a unique charm found only in climbing kilns.”

After a long period of uncertainty and inner conflict, Naoyuki has found his place within history and tradition. Now, standing beside him is his son, Ryoga, who returned to the family home in 2024 as the third-generation head of “Kodaiyaki Fumoto Kiln” after completing his apprenticeship at “Iwai Kiln” in Tottori Prefecture. Not only the tradition of Kodaiyaki itself, but also the craftsmanship rooted in a continuous dialogue with clay and fire is now being passed on to the next generation.

The post Finding identity in a history and tradition spanning some 400 years. Naoyuki Inoue of “Kodai-yaki Fumoto Kiln” / Arao City, Kumamoto Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Okinawa has long been influenced by American culture, and coffee has been a beloved staple there for generations. Discovering the story behind Okinawa’s “coffee beans” is another way to experience a new side of the island. Yoshiyuki Nakamura, owner and roaster at “Mame Pole Pole,” shared with us the appeal of Okinawan coffee as it emerges into the spotlight.

To Koza, and Then to the Highlands

“Coffee isn’t just bitter; it can have chocolatey or fruity notes—it’s a diverse and fascinating world,” says Nakamura. Since opening his shop in Okinawa City, located in central Okinawa Prefecture, in 2010, he relocated once to accommodate a new roasting machine, and in 2024, due to the aging of the original building, he established a new shop in the Takahara district of the same city.

The old shop in Koza was built on the site of the New York Restaurant, which opened in the 1950s and was the first in Okinawa to serve Western-style cuisine. The design made use of that charm, allowing visitors to feel the history. The original sign and blue rust were deliberately left as they were, the roaster sat majestically at the back of the shop, and the aroma that lingered inside made you want to breathe deeply.Mr. Nakamura himself was particularly fond of the space, where the balance between old and new felt just right, allowing visitors to experience the atmosphere of that era—a blend of Okinawan and American cultures. Naturally, that same aesthetic has been carried over to the new shop in Takahara.

Roasting Skills Recognized Worldwide Through Dedication

Mr. Nakamura was deeply impressed by Vietnamese coffee he encountered during his college graduation trip and gained experience as a barista after returning home. Being the type of person who, once he starts something, is determined to master it, he taught himself through repeated trial and error.Seeking roasting techniques unavailable in Okinawa, he traveled all over Japan. It was during this period of training that he began competing in the “Japan Coffee Roasting Championship” (JCRC). He won the JCRC in 2017, and subsequently represented Japan at the WCRC (World Coffee Roasting Championship) held in Italy in 2019, where he took second place in the world on his very first attempt.

As a roaster, Nakamura focuses on creating a clean finish and a sweet aftertaste. “Whether it’s a light roast or a dark roast, I take care to ensure the finish ends on a sweet note,” he says. People now travel from all over Japan to seek out Nakamura’s beans.

Bringing Out the Bean’s Character: A Dialogue with Coffee

Coffee is a luxury item. Everyone has their own preferred taste, and how the flavor is perceived changes depending on the environment and time of day. As a roaster, Nakamura pursues quality while engaging in a dialogue with the beans in this world without a single “correct” answer, drawing out their potential and individuality.

Even beans from the same variety at the same farm can transform into something entirely different depending on the post-harvest processing methods. For example, sun-drying the beans while still attached to the fruit imparts a rich, berry-like sweetness and body, whereas washing them to remove the pulp brings out a clean, crisp acidity.

Furthermore, the fermentation process—which has garnered attention in recent years—also plays a key role in shaping the flavor. By blocking oxygen and activating microorganisms, complex aromas reminiscent of wine and spices—unseen in traditional coffee—are brought to the fore. Mr. Nakamura says that the appeal of coffee lies in controlling these countless variables to weave the story of each cup.

“Coffee beans, just like us humans, aren’t all the same. Their individuality changes depending on the environment in which they were grown,” says Nakamura.

The roasting time also varies depending on the bean. He explains that he assesses the bean’s condition—such as its size and hardness—to discern its character, visualizes how to finish it, and then determines the roasting method. Depending on the bean’s individuality, not only does the roast level (dark or light) change, but even the recommended way to drink it varies. For instance, if the body is strong, it works well in a cappuccino where it holds its own against the milk.

Farmers take great care during the “processing” stage, which involves extracting the seeds (the part that becomes the coffee bean) from harvested coffee cherries (the fruit) and drying them. Furthermore, the flavors and acidity you experience when drinking the coffee are rooted in the taste of the land where the beans were grown. Because Nakamura values his dialogue with the beans, he confirms where they were born and the environment in which they grew, checking their moisture content and fermentation levels.

As the moisture evaporates, the sound changes.
The beans from “Mame Pole Pole” undergo this relay of care before being roasted in a meticulously selected German roaster.

Okinawa’s World-Renowned Specialty Coffee

What truly surprises Nakamura is the coffee bean “Akachichi” from ADA Farm, a coffee farm located in the Yanbaru Forest in northern Okinawa—the first in Japan to receive specialty coffee certification.

“Akachichi” derives from “akatsuki,” the Okinawan word for dawn. Mr. Nakamura named it with the hope that this would not just be a passing trend, but a dawn that leads to the future.

The intense acidity and fruity flavor characteristic of high-quality coffee beans are created by temperature fluctuations. These fluctuations harden the beans, locking in sugar and making them sweet. Indeed, coffee is a fruit. However, Okinawa has low elevation and minimal temperature variation.It cannot be said to be blessed with an ideal environment for growing coffee beans, and cultivating specialty coffee was considered difficult. So why was Akachichi grown in Okinawa and certified as specialty coffee? The answer lies in the dedication and passion of Mr. Tokuda of ADA Farm, who is meticulous about the ripeness of every single bean.

“Ensuring that every cup of coffee consumed by the customer has a wonderful flavor and is satisfyingly delicious.”
The essence of specialty coffee, as defined by the Specialty Coffee Association of Japan (SCAJ), lies not only in the quality of the beans but also in thorough management and sustainability from production to extraction.The beans from “ADA Farm,” nestled in the deep forests of Yanbaru, embody this ideal. And the roasting by “Mame Pole Pole” connects the producer’s passion and the breath of the forest to us in the finest possible state. Beans grown in the forests of Okinawa and recognized worldwide are roasted by someone who loves this island, bringing out their unique character. Then, they are carefully brewed using the water of this land.The dedication of these two individuals converges to create the ultimate luxury: “satisfying deliciousness.”

To deliver “a cup of coffee that can only be made here and will astonish the world,” they continue to walk alongside the forest today, pouring their passion into every single bean.

The post “Mame Porepore”: A Special Coffee You Can Only Enjoy in Okinawa / Okinawa City, Okinawa Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Oji Holdings traces its roots to the “Paper Manufacturing Company,” established in 1873 through the efforts of Eiichi Shibusawa—an industrialist often referred to as the “Father of Japanese Capitalism” who founded Japan’s first bank and laid the groundwork for a wide range of industries, including railways, insurance, and paper manufacturing—and boasts a history spanning 150 years. The company owns approximately 190,000 hectares of company-owned forests—among the largest in the private sector in Japan. For the past 100 years, it has been planting trees and nurturing forests in Kuriyama Town, Hokkaido, and continues to engage in forestry with a vision toward harvests 100 years from now.

A 150-year legacy of determination to see things through, inherited from Eiichi Shibusawa

Located in central Hokkaido, Kuriyama Town in Yubari District is a town where forests cover about half of its total area. It once flourished alongside the heyday of the Yubari Coal Mine, and is also famous for the fact that Hideki Kuriyama, former manager of the Nippon Ham Fighters, established a youth baseball field here named “Kurinoki Farm” after himself, and has been fostering community ties for over 20 years. In the mountainous region of this town, a vast forest stretches out amidst a snowy landscape as far as the eye can see. This is a company-owned forest held by Oji Holdings (hereinafter Oji HD). Tracing its history back, it leads to 1873, when Meiji-era industrialist Eiichi Shibusawa was deeply involved in establishing a paper manufacturing company. At that time in Japan, washi (traditional Japanese paper) was the mainstream, and Western-style paper—which could be mass-produced using Western techniques—did not yet exist. Producing it with their own hands was an indispensable challenge for supporting publishing and newspapers to widely disseminate information, and for advancing the nation’s modernization. Although the company faced a difficult start with continuous losses, Shibusawa did not give up. That “never-give-up” spirit has become the unshakable foundation of the company, which has continued for 150 years.

We grow our own ingredients

When the company was founded, rags were the raw material for paper. Later, as civilization advanced and demand for paper continued to grow, the company developed a manufacturing process to produce paper from wood in 1889. Since the 1930s, the company has been committed to forest cultivation to ensure a stable supply of raw materials for the future. Today, the company’s forests in Japan cover approximately 190,000 hectares—roughly the same as the total area of Osaka Prefecture—making it the largest such operation among private companies in the country. The company focuses on planting, cultivating, and harvesting trees that have traditionally grown wild in each region—such as Japanese white spruce and larch in Hokkaido, and Japanese cedar and cypress on Honshu. Tetsuhiko Ogasawara and Yu Sato of Oji Forest & Landscape are responsible for managing this forest in Kuriyama Town, Hokkaido.

Business enriches the forest

The reason the company continues to maintain its forests is simple: “Those who use wood have a duty to plant trees.” This single principle has given rise to an endeavor that nurtures forests, protects water sources, and benefits agriculture downstream. As the forests thrive, the water becomes clearer, and these benefits extend to agriculture and the sea (fishing) downstream. Although these effects cannot be proven with hard numbers, “I believe they do exist”—that is their genuine conviction. The fact that a rich natural environment awaits at the end of their business endeavors has been quietly proven by the passage of 150 years.

In a winter forest where temperatures drop to minus 20 degrees, the harvest is in full swing

In the company’s company-owned forests in Hokkaido, the harsh winter is actually the peak season for harvesting. It is precisely during Hokkaido’s winter—when temperatures drop below freezing and deep snow accumulates—that the conditions are ideal for harvesting high-quality timber. There is a practical reason for this, one unique to the northern climate.

Winter forests produce the finest timber

In winter, trees enter a dormant state and their internal moisture content decreases. While cutting a tree in summer causes sap to gush out, a winter tree retains a tight grain structure, dries quickly, and yields high-quality timber that lasts longer. Furthermore, sub-freezing temperatures freeze the ground, and accumulated snow acts as a cushion, allowing heavy machinery weighing dozens of tons to drive in without damaging the soil. Since frozen ground also makes it easier to slide and transport logs, winter is the ideal season for forestry. “Since trees store moisture, it’s better to harvest them in winter when they’re dormant and dry.” Mr. Sato and his colleagues speak naturally about this wisdom unique to the northern regions.

The expert’s eye—something machines can’t replicate

They are, so to speak, modern-day “lumberjacks.” Operating heavy machinery deep within snow-covered forests, they have a complete grasp of the area’s water flow and the balance of its vegetation. “You mustn’t cut here. If you cut here, the water will dry up.” As if speaking these words, they make decisions based on their senses—honed by years of experience—and determine which trees to harvest today while envisioning what the forest will look like a hundred years from now. Although the introduction of state-of-the-art machinery has dramatically improved safety and efficiency, in the end, it is their keen eye that determines the forest’s future.

From log to finished product in one minute: A “waste-free” cycle driven by industry

What were once sites where workers risked their lives walking up slopes with chainsaws in hand have now become highly mechanized. As safety has improved and it has become easier for younger generations to enter the field, signs of change are beginning to emerge in the previously severe labor shortage.

The Harvester’s Job: Turning Trees into Logs in Just One Minute

The harvester—a piece of heavy machinery that handles everything from felling to delimbing and log extraction—symbolizes this mechanization. Its onboard computer instantly assesses the tree’s curvature and diameter the moment it grips the trunk, calculating the optimal number of cuts to maximize value. With a sound of snow being kicked up, the tree is trimmed to the specified length in less than a minute. This is an essential innovation for working safely with a minimal crew, and even the tips of the remaining branches are utilized as biomass fuel, ensuring that forest resources are used to the fullest.

The demand for paper is growing worldwide

In this way, the timber harvested from the forest is used as building materials and furniture, while lower-quality wood unsuitable for lumber is turned into wood chips and transformed into various products, including paper, corrugated cardboard, and biomass fuel. With the advance of digitalization, it is certainly true that the role of paper is changing. However, while demand for information media such as newspapers is shrinking, this segment has never accounted for a significant portion of Oji Holdings’ sales to begin with. Rather, demand for everyday uses rooted in daily life—such as “wrapping” and “wiping”—continues to grow globally, and the two executives say, “Far from disappearing, demand for corrugated cardboard and hygiene paper is actually increasing.” The expansion of online shopping is further driving this demand. They produce paper, recycle it, and turn it back into corrugated cardboard. “There aren’t many companies that handle the entire process to that extent,” the two agree. Their system, which completes the entire cycle—from raw material cultivation and procurement to manufacturing and recycling—in-house, is a business model that is rare even on a global scale. Currently, they are also engaged in research to produce plastics and pharmaceuticals from wood, aiming to transform forest resources into future growth industries.

A Relay for the Next 100 Years. A Baton That Never Ends

Currently, many forests in Japan are left untended. The main reason is that efforts to keep forests healthy do not immediately translate into profits. The fact that companies like Oji Holdings continue to take a serious, business-oriented approach to forestry is helping to underpin the entire Japanese forestry industry.

Forests as a business protect Japan

Planting a single sapling won’t change society overnight. However, continuing to plant on a scale that allows for sustainable operations has the power to change the future. Nurturing trees, harvesting them responsibly, and keeping the economy moving will ultimately lead to leaving a healthy environment for the next generation. “We hope to pass these forests on to the next generation, so they can continue to build even better forests,” say the two, their words quiet yet powerful. A firm resolve lies behind their words. Behind this lies the reality facing Japan’s forests. Unmanaged forests eventually become overgrown, water sources are lost, and the risk of landslides increases. However, in reality, due to a shortage of workers and an aging population, many forests are left unmanaged and neglected. Trees are a renewable resource that humans can create through their own will. Furthermore, manufacturers around the world are accelerating efforts to shift from petroleum-based manufacturing to biomass, including wood. Oji Holdings’ continued commitment to forestry as a business is, in essence, a commitment to protecting Japan’s natural environment itself.

The trees we plant today will be there for our grandchildren

The trees planted today won’t be harvested until far in the future—in our grandchildren’s generation. For Japanese cedar and cypress, it takes 40 to 50 years; for Hokkaido fir and larch, 60 to 70 years. It will be our grandchildren’s generation that harvests the saplings we’ve planted. “We’re harvesting what our predecessors planted, and we want to entrust what we plant now to the next generation 100 years from now,” the two say. Their words convey a determination to persist single-mindedly in work that will not be completed within their own lifetimes. “Our mission is to nurture the forests, research the various materials they can provide, and deliver them to society.” As these words suggest, the vision that Eiichi Shibusawa envisioned 150 years ago is still alive today. They are carrying on this never-ending “100-year relay” as a business. Through this endeavor, they are passing on Japan’s prized abundance of water and greenery to the future, just as it is.

The post Working Toward a Forest for the Next 100 Years, Today and Every Day. “Oji Holdings” / Kuriyama Town, Yubari District, Hokkaido first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Cows stroll leisurely across a small hill where the reddish-brown soil lies bare. Their lean, muscular builds, which exude a sense of wildness, are the result of being raised entirely on free-range pastures in the mountains. The ranch owner, Nozomi Yano, is a former engineer. After leaving her corporate job, she spent 10 years developing a plot of land roughly three times the size of Tokyo Dome, where she now raises 30 Jersey cows.

She entered the mountains penniless, cleared the land, and started a dairy farm

Tamana City, located in northern Kumamoto Prefecture, is blessed with abundant natural beauty—including the Ariake Sea, Mount Kodai, and the Kikuchi River—and enjoys a mild climate. It is an agricultural town where rice, vegetables, and fruit cultivation thrive. It was around the year 2000 that Yano took her first steps in this region.

Originally from Kitakyushu City, Fukuoka Prefecture, Mr. Yano had been working as a plant engineer designing equipment for a local steel mill, but he suddenly felt a sense of unease about continuing his life as a company employee. Having suffered from allergies since childhood, he began to fundamentally reevaluate his lifestyle and diet. During this process, he met a farmer practicing natural farming methods that use neither pesticides nor fertilizers, and his interest in food and agriculture deepened.In his late 20s, he left his corporate job and decided to settle in the mountains where his current ranch is located, aiming for self-sufficiency and sustainable agriculture.

“Settling” refers to entering uncharted territory and starting a new life there. Mr. Yano came across the site of a former ranch, now overgrown with mixed woodland at an elevation of about 200 meters, and was convinced that here he could pursue a form of mountain dairy farming unique to Japan. In 2000, he decided to move there penniless, bringing with him one cow, one pig, and one dog.He built a small hut in a corner of the land, cut down and thinned out the trees, cultivated the barren soil, and established Tamana Farm.

It wasn’t until seven years later, in 2007, that Mr. Yano was able to begin dairy farming in earnest. While selling milk, he also started processing and selling cheese to break even, gradually building the kind of ranch he envisioned. The ranch is named Tamana Ranch, after the local area. It took a full decade to expand the ranch to its current size, all while making a living by selling rice, vegetables, and eggs raised using natural farming methods.

A farm where vigorous, nature-oriented farming thrives

Thirty dairy cows live on the vast 15-hectare property. The cows are of the Jersey breed. Compared to the Holstein breed, which accounts for over 90% of the domestic herd, Jerseys are about 200 kg lighter and produce less milk. However, this makes them less prone to knee and hoof injuries caused by their own weight, making them well-suited for grazing on hilly terrain.

Beyond their suitability for this environment, we chose Jersey cows because the milk they produce is exceptionally rich in fat and protein, giving it a rich, creamy texture—a key factor in setting our milk apart in terms of taste.

Incidentally, Tamana Farm does not feed the grain or mixed feed typically used in conventional dairy farming. When the cows are hungry, they eat the grass that grows naturally in the mountains; when they are full, they take walks or doze off.

While most farms have barns to house and manage their cattle, Tamana Farm has no barns; the cows spend the entire year roaming freely on the mountain pastures. Naturally, they defecate and urinate in the mountains, but the manure from cows that eat only grass looks just like a clump of soil. It’s not watery, and it doesn’t have that pungent, nose-stinging odor.Mr. Yano picked up a piece, and it looked fluffy to the eye; it crumbled between his fingers and blended right into the mountain soil. Watching this, it’s easy to imagine how it returns to nature without human intervention and circulates within this land. There are only about 20 dairy farms nationwide that practice free-range grazing like Tamana Farm.

The cows at Tamana Farm have visible spines and faintly visible ribs. If you imagine the Holsteins kept in barns, they might seem thin, but Mr. Yano says this is a state closer to the wild.Since they do not feed the cows high-protein, high-calorie feed to accelerate growth and maximize milk production, the cows remain slim, and their milk yield is less than half that of typical Jersey cows. Yet, this is precisely why they are healthy. Because they eat a diet that does not strain their bodies, get moderate exercise, sleep well, and live stress-free lives, they do not become obese and are less prone to illness. The cows breed naturally in the mountains, and calving occurs without human assistance—the cows give birth on their own.

Tamana Farm is alive with a vigorous rhythm that follows the laws of nature. Mr. Yano believes that this cycle represents the ideal form of dairy farming, and that mountain dairy farming is the best choice for producing the finest milk.

Tamana Farm’s Dairy Products Reflecting the Seasons and Local Climate

The milk from cows raised in this environment is characterized by a creamy color with a faint yellowish tint. While the average milk fat content of commercially available milk is around 3% for Holsteins and 4% for Jerseys, Tamana Farm’s milk reaches 5%. This high milk fat content creates a rich, full-bodied flavor, yet the aftertaste is surprisingly refreshing.Another distinctive feature of Tamana Farm’s milk is that its flavor subtly changes with the seasons, influenced by temperature and the condition of the pasture grass. While high-temperature pasteurization—heating milk to 120–130°C for 3 seconds—is the standard in Japan, Tamana Farm uses low-temperature pasteurization at 65°C for 30 minutes, resulting in minimal protein denaturation. This preserves the raw milk’s natural, clean flavor and the seasonal nuances, giving it a smooth, light mouthfeel.There is no heaviness from proteins or fat clinging to the tongue; instead, it leaves a lingering aftertaste that fades away cleanly.

Made from this milk, Tamana Farm’s signature product—the original chèvre-style cheese “Lumière”—first surprises you with its aroma. A refreshing, faintly sweet scent reminiscent of fresh grass gently wafts up. When you take a bite, a rich depth and umami slowly spread across your tongue, yet you also sense a crisp freshness like mountain air. As it ages, the flavor gains depth, and the way it melts smoothly is another highlight of Lumière.Developed by Mr. Yano after searching for a production method that perfectly suited the quality of the milk he produces himself, this cheese encapsulates the natural environment where the cows live and the changing seasons. It is a masterpiece that won the Grand Prize at the Kumamoto Food Science Research Association Awards in 2011.

Passing on sustainable dairy farming that supports a livelihood to the next generation

Tamana Farm’s dairy products—including milk, cheese, and butter—are sold directly to the public and enjoy strong support from chefs, pastry chefs, and natural food stores both within and outside the prefecture. However, Mr. Yano’s goal is not to increase production beyond current levels, but to maintain quality.

The ranch, developed on a mountaintop, has many slopes, and grass struggles to grow in shaded areas. Furthermore, due to the frequent torrential rains in recent years, soil erosion has become a reality, making it increasingly difficult to secure enough grass within the ranch itself. While they currently make up for the shortfall by growing grass on separate fields, securing sufficient land for the ranch remains an immediate challenge.

Mr. Yano also feels a sense of responsibility toward the next generation of dairy farmers. While there is a constant stream of visitors coming to observe and train with the aim of adopting farming methods like those at Tamana Farm, it is not uncommon for them to face obstacles related to funding and land.Mr. Yano believes that agriculture is only sustainable when it not only produces food but also provides a livelihood. To achieve this, he believes it is important not only to pass on know-how to the younger generation but also to create an environment where they can take on new challenges with confidence. He also notes that to address these issues, consumers need to change their criteria and mindset when choosing food.

To this end, Tamana Farm actively conducts farm tours and events aimed at both consumers and producers to encourage them to think about food and its production environment. Perhaps as a result of these efforts, consumers, producers, chefs, and even local governments who resonate with Mr. Yano’s vision have begun voluntarily promoting the appeal of Tamana Farm’s products and the excellence of its initiatives.In this way, the seeds sown by Mr. Yano are gradually bearing fruit, and the circle of his activities is expanding—deepening understanding of the potential and value of mountain dairy farming in Japan, where approximately 70% of the land area consists of mountains and plateaus.

The name of the cheese into which Mr. Yano has poured his heart and soul is “Lumière.” Just like this cheese, whose name means “light” in French, the small light born from life in the mountains has now reached maturity and is beginning to illuminate the next generation.

The post Mountain Pastoral Farming: A Vision for the Future of Dairy Farming. Nozomi Yano of “Tamana Farm” / Tamana City, Kumamoto Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.