Yusuke Kawata of “Omishima Minna no Winery” moved to Omishima in Ehime Prefecture on his own to grow grapes and make wine. Having traveled across the country from north to south to study winemaking at various wineries, Kawata’s goal on Omishima is to create wines whose flavors capture the island’s unique charm.

I moved to Omishima after sensing its potential as a wine-producing region

Mr. Kawata, who was interested in winemaking, attended a university in Yamanashi Prefecture—a major hub for Japanese wine—and spent his college years visiting renowned wineries across the country to gain practical experience. Shortly before graduating, he had the opportunity to participate in the “Project to Revitalize Omishima,” launched by architect Toyo Ito, which sparked his interest in winemaking on Omishima.

Ito, who has won numerous architectural awards both in Japan and abroad and enjoys worldwide acclaim, is also a figure who has actively engaged in regional revitalization beyond the realm of architecture. His vision—to utilize the island’s landscape and resources to foster new industries and attract people—resonated deeply with Kawata.

High-quality grapes are an essential prerequisite for winemaking. Kawata realized that Oshima’s climate closely resembles that of Katsunuma in Yamanashi Prefecture—Japan’s premier wine-producing region—and, convinced that this land would surely yield excellent grapes, he decided to embark on winemaking with Mr. Ito and his team.

“The scenery of the Seto Inland Sea is truly magnificent. It’s very similar to Shizuoka, where I was born and raised—the sea is close by, it feels wonderful, and the people who live here are kind. I wanted to try growing grapes and making wine here.” In 2015, Kawata moved to Omishima on his own. He leased abandoned farmland—which had become a challenge for the island—planted grapevines, and began cultivating grapes.

The constant trial and error is challenging, but it’s also fun

Although he has a deep knowledge of wine, grape growing was a first-time challenge for Mr. Kawata. He began by consulting local farmers who knew the land intimately to select high-quality vineyards suitable for grape cultivation. “The soil on Omishima is sandy loam formed from weathered granite, which drains well and is ideal for growing grapes. However, it also has poor water retention, so we have to take that into account. “I’m working on this while learning various techniques from local farmers, such as adding compost to activate the soil’s microorganisms,” says Kawata. His commitment to using locally sourced fertilizers stems from his desire to preserve the unique character of the land. He also values grape cultivation that is deeply rooted in this region, going so far as to handcraft the materials for his trellises with the help of a local shipyard.

We grow a variety of grape varieties, including the popular Chardonnay, Muscat Bailey A—the first variety developed in Japan—and Albariño, which originates from coastal regions of Spain and Portugal where the climate is similar to that of the Seto Inland Sea. “I chose Chardonnay because it’s grown all over Japan, so I thought it would be easier to discern the terroir. Koshu is also a famous variety, but I felt I might be too constrained by its name, so I’m not growing it at the moment. I’m experimenting with various varieties—looking for ones that are disease-resistant, high-yielding, and well-suited to the island—but it’s going to take quite some time to find the right answer,” he says. Both cultivation methods and variety selection are a constant process of trial and error.

Wines raised on the island, crafted at a small winery by the sea

The grapevines planted in 2015 bore fruit for the first time in 2016, but unfortunately, the entire crop was devoured by wild boars, so the following year, 2017, marked the long-awaited first harvest. The harvested grapes were vinified at a winery outside the prefecture, resulting in the birth of Omishima’s first-ever wine—a truly historic milestone. Furthermore, in 2019, a winery was established on the grounds of “Omishima Ikoi no Ie,” an accommodation facility renovated from a former elementary school. This made it possible to produce wine that is 100% Omishima-grown in both name and reality.

Despite various design constraints, Mr. Kawata poured everything he had learned into the winery, striving to incorporate as many of his personal preferences as possible. One such feature is the gravity flow system, which utilizes the elevation difference to move raw materials to tanks and aging vessels. He explains that this method places less strain on the grapes than using pumps, allowing their natural flavors to shine through. For the tanks, after carefully weighing the pros and cons of options such as enamel, resin, and concrete, they ultimately opted for custom-made stainless steel tanks from Slovenia. They also introduced French oak barrels, both five-year-old and three-year-old. While new barrels impart a strong woody aroma, the flavor becomes milder with use, deepening the harmony with the wine. Selecting the right barrels based on their age-specific characteristics is another of Mr. Kawata’s key commitments.

First, a wine that more people will enjoy

Mr. Kawata aims to create “truly Japanese” wine. “Rather than striving to meet Western standards, I want to cherish the flavors that emerge from Japan’s climate and soil, using grapes grown right here in Japan. I believe there is genuine value in the ‘truly Japanese’ wine that results from this approach. The lightness that was once described as ‘like water’ is, when you look at it another way, a gentleness that complements any dish. It’s unpretentious and comes alive at the dinner table. That, I feel, is what a ‘Japanese-style’ wine is all about,” he says.

A pleasant life on Omishima, surrounded by grapes and wine

It has been 10 years since Mr. Kawata moved to Omishima. While there have been significant changes in grape cultivation and winemaking, he says these past 10 years have also been a whirlwind of changes for him personally.

“I came to Omishima alone, but then I met my wife, we got married, and we had a child. It’s been a decade in which the meaning of my life shifted from ‘coming here to grow grapes and make wine’ to ‘living here.’ Even though I sometimes feel a bit of inconvenience regarding infrastructure and such, every day is fulfilling, and I am truly satisfied with my life on Omishima,” he says.

The island’s current population is approximately 5,000. While the original resident population is on the decline, the number of people moving to the island from elsewhere is reportedly increasing. The reasons for moving vary from person to person, but many cite a desire to live in the Seto Inland Sea, a wish to contribute to the island’s revitalization—such as through the Regional Revitalization Corps—or a decision to settle here after falling in love with the place during a visit. Even without moving permanently, some people maintain a dual-residence lifestyle, keeping their primary address and job elsewhere. “I wonder if the number of people leaving the island will eventually be overtaken by the number of people moving in?” Kawata says with a laugh.

Wines from a small island in the Seto Inland Sea

While Omishima has many charms, it also faces its share of challenges. Adapting to the climate changes caused by global warming in recent years is a serious issue. In particular, the summer of 2024 brought life-threatening heat, forcing both people and the grapes to struggle just to survive.

Furthermore, according to Mr. Kawata, neither the grapes nor the wine have yet reached a satisfactory level in terms of quality or technique. “I haven’t yet established what ‘the taste of Omishima’ means to me,” he says. “So, my first priority is to clarify that. My goal is to create a wine that expresses the atmosphere of Omishima—a wine that is approachable and full of depth, one that allows you to feel the sea and the wind of Omishima.”

His immediate goals are to produce wines with a flavor he finds satisfying and to get the islanders—who aren’t accustomed to drinking wine—to try their wines. Beyond that, winning an award at the Japan Wine Competition is his primary objective, and eventually, he hopes to compete in international competitions. Mr. Kawata’s dreams continue to expand.

The post Our goal is to create wines that capture the essence and atmosphere of the Seto Inland Sea. “Omishima Minna no Winery” / Imabari City, Ehime Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Yuri Kawana serves as both the representative and head brewer at Kawakei Shoten. While honoring tradition, she embraces new techniques and challenges, approaching sake brewing with the philosophy that “tradition is preserved only by pushing boundaries.” In particular, the flagship brand “Koganesawa” captivates a wide range of people—from beginners to connoisseurs—with its rich aroma and smooth finish. What does Yuri value most in her pursuit of crafting sake that stands out?

Established 120 years ago. “Kawakei Shoten” was founded by a merchant family with ties to the Date clan.

In 1902, the first-generation Keiji Kawana founded “Kawakei Shoten” in Wakuya Town, Toda District, in northeastern Miyagi Prefecture. The company traces its roots to a hardware merchant who served the Date clan of the Sendai Domain. Following the Land Tax Reform, which granted him farmland, he relocated to Misato Town, located south of Wakuya Town. Although Misato Town was known since ancient times for its fertile soil and thriving rice production, the land acquired by the Kawana family was largely marshy and unsuitable for rice cultivation. Consequently, they turned their attention to sake brewing as a livelihood independent of agriculture and decided to establish a brewery.

Continuing to produce unique sake using the Yamahai brewing method

Since its founding, Kawakei Shoten has been committed to the “Yamahai-style brewing” method, which utilizes natural lactic acid bacteria to cultivate the shubo (yeast starter). The shubo is the process of cultivating yeast to create the foundation for fermentation, and it is a crucial factor that determines the flavor of sake. Because this method is time-consuming, labor-intensive, and requires a high level of skill, the brewery once limited production to about 60% of its capacity and relied on “sokujo-zukuri” (rapid fermentation), which involves directly adding artificially produced lactic acid, to make up the difference. However, Yamahai-style sake now accounts for 90% of production. Yuri explains the reason: “Yamahai-style brewing allows each brewery to express its unique character, enabling us to convey the distinctive flavor of Kawakei Shoten. I feel it is indispensable to Kawakei Shoten today.”

Carefully brewed using locally sourced rice and water, “Koganesawa” is characterized by its delicate and refined flavor and is highly regarded as a sake that pairs well with meals. Another reason for its popularity is that it tastes delicious at any temperature—whether served chilled, lukewarm, or hot. The name originates from the fact that it was brewed by a merchant from Wakuya Town, a region famous for gold mining.

The Role of an Only Daughter Raised in an Era of Declining Interest in Sake

For Yuri, having a sake brewery as part of her everyday surroundings since childhood was simply a given, but she says she never gave much thought to the history and craftsmanship that lay within it. However, as she grew older and came into contact with the memories of her community and family, she gradually began to understand its significance.

Partly because sake consumption plummeted during her formative years, she had come to view sake brewing as an “unrewarding job.” However, the Great East Japan Earthquake of March 2011 changed her perspective. Her family home collapsed, and since restoration took time, she began to reflect on the significance of being born as the only daughter of a family that ran a sake brewery.

Learning every aspect of sake brewing from scratch and aspiring to become a master brewer

In the wake of the earthquake, Yuri, the only daughter of the Kawake family, began to consider taking over the family business. Regardless of whether she would actually take over the business, she decided to find out what sake brewing was really like, so she participated in a 40-day training course held at the Tokyo Office of the National Research Institute of Brewing (which was merged into the headquarters in Hiroshima Prefecture in 2015). The National Research Institute of Brewing is a government research institute dedicated to studying the quality of alcoholic beverages and brewing techniques; it also offers educational programs that attract sake brewers from across the country. “Once I tried it, I found sake brewing to be quite interesting,” she recalls with a laugh.

That feeling encouraged her to learn sake brewing from scratch, and in 2012, she joined Kawakei Shoten. She says she was initially confused and knew nothing, but as she learned from those around her, she gradually began to discover the appeal of sake brewing. Then, following her father’s passing, she took on the responsibility of sake brewing as the head brewer in 2019.

Assessing the quality of the ingredients to craft a delicious sake

Yuri is particular about washing the rice by hand. While she does use some machinery, she says that washing 5-kilogram batches by hand allows her to closely monitor for broken grains and check the rice’s water absorption, making it easier to achieve the desired sake profile. In recent years, rice has tended to become harder, and since the washing method can significantly affect the quality of the sake, she pays the utmost attention to this process. When washing, she explains that she does not scrub the rice vigorously as one would with table rice, but rather washes it gently, with the aim of gently removing the bran.

Striving to produce better sake, we are exploring new flavors at Kawakei Shoten

Kawakei Shoten’s current sake brewing is guided by the theme of “brewing with a pure heart, always keeping our drinkers in mind.” To achieve this, the brewery strictly adheres to the “ginjo-style” method, which involves long-term, low-temperature fermentation from the koji-making stage through the yeast starter and mash. This process ensures the sake develops a clean, refined flavor.

However, the brewery notes, “Compared to other companies’ koji, ours has a somewhat subdued character, so we’d like to try our hand at producing a more robust koji in the future.” Their goal is to create sake with both clarity and a solid structure.

“Koganesawa’s Position”: A Reassessment Amid the COVID-19 Pandemic

Amid declining demand for sake during the COVID-19 pandemic, Yuri chose to dedicate time to reevaluating the brand. As a result, she says the appeal and positioning of “Koganesawa” have become much clearer. The goal is to pursue a sake that “harmonizes with the dining table” and pairs well with any dish, while remaining a constant presence in people’s lives. To that end, she is determined to “continue taking on new challenges and create even more delicious sake.”

Though not flashy, it complements food and enriches the drinker’s experience. It is this accumulation of such moments that represents the value Kawakei Shoten has upheld for 120 years. “Koganesawa” will continue to evolve and remain beloved for years to come.

The post Cherishing the bounty of this land, we offer sake that can only be enjoyed at Kawakei Shoten. Yuri Kawana, 7th-generation owner of Kawakei Shoten / Misato Town, Enda District, Miyagi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The Ikawa Distillery, Japan’s highest-altitude distilling facility, stands amidst the forests of the Southern Alps along the border of Shizuoka and Yamanashi Prefectures.Operated by Jūzan Corporation, part of the Tokushu Tokai Paper Group, which owns vast company-owned forests in this area. Why did these paper-making professionals venture into the unknown territory of whisky? Behind it lies a grand story of “forest utilization” – connecting the rich ecosystem of the Southern Alps to future generations.

Deep in the mountains, beyond the reach of radio waves, the stills turn quietly.

A 4-5 hour drive from Shizuoka Station. Passing through a gate restricting general vehicle access, the Ikawa Distillery lies further deep within. Located at the Shizuoka Prefecture entrance to the Southern Alps, the Ikawa region is deep in the mountains where even cell phone signals don’t reach.

In this place, lacking infrastructure and offering no conveniences, the production team lives secluded in the mountains, facing the stills. They can descend only once every two weeks. Their life, watching over the birth of the raw spirit deep in the forest, is truly akin to that of a monk in training.

Incidentally, Japan currently has about 150 whisky distilleries, including those in operation and those preparing to open. When Tōzan entered the industry from a different field in 2020, there were only about 40 to 50 distilleries. This means the number has roughly tripled in just five years.

Among these, Shizuoka Prefecture ranks fifth in Japan for the number of distilleries, making it a relatively active region for whisky production.

Within Shizuoka City lies the Gaiaflow Shizuoka Distillery, while the eastern part of the prefecture is dotted with distinctive distilleries such as the Kirin Distillery owned by the major beverage manufacturer Kirin Group, Distillery Water Dragon, and Fuji Kaguyahime Distillery. However, the Ikawa Distillery stands out even within the prefecture due to its unique location, origins, and management vision.

It all began with 24,000 hectares of forest

Tokushu Tokai Paper Co., Ltd. (Tokushu Tokai), the parent company of Toyama Co., Ltd. (Toyama), which operates the Ikawa Distillery, owns approximately 24,000 hectares of company-owned forest in this Southern Alps region.

This area is roughly four times the size of the land enclosed by the Yamanote Line loop in Tokyo. It is one of Japan’s largest contiguous privately owned forests and boasts an exceptionally rich and deep ecosystem, home to many endemic and rare Japanese species. Consequently, the company felt it was imperative to protect this precious natural environment for future generations.

However, maintaining and conserving this vast forest and its ecology incurs enormous costs. While timber was once floated down rivers to be caught downstream and utilized as construction materials or paper pulp, this business model stagnated for over half a century due to competition from cheaper imported wood.

“Simply protecting the forest isn’t sustainable management. We need a business that properly creates value from the mountain and generates funds for its preservation.”

Jūzan and the whisky business emerged as one answer to this long-standing challenge.

The mountain’s blessings were perfectly aligned

When exploring ways to utilize the mountains, the first focus was “water.” The Southern Alps are a vital water source supporting people’s lives, yielding extremely pure soft water completely untouched by industrial or domestic wastewater. While selling this water directly was considered, it was undeniable that this alone had limited added value.

Thus, the idea we arrived at was whisky production utilizing the company-owned forest itself.

The Ikawa district, where our company-owned forest is located, boasts an elevation of 1,200 meters and a humid climate blessed by the mountains. This results in cool temperatures and high humidity throughout the year. The low evaporation rate during barrel aging allows for the cultivation of long-aged spirits that mature slowly over time.

This climate and environment are said to closely resemble those of Scotland, the home of whisky.

Furthermore, the abundant spring water and the superior quality of materials like Mizunara oak, commonly used for whiskey barrels, provided the ideal conditions for crafting exceptional whiskey.

Cherishing the journey of growth. A story called “Dessin”

Thus began whisky production.

Driven by his passion, distillery manager and director Seto, who has tasted and compared various brands, aimed not for flashy impact, but for a clear, easy-drinking whisky that pairs well with food.

He sought to express a “subtle elegance,” akin to the pristine forests of the Southern Alps, where the refined flavors and aromas of the ingredients could be sensed beneath a clean taste.

To achieve this, he focused on the milling process, where the malted barley is crushed.

By extracting a clear wort, impurities are eliminated, leading to the sweet, transparent character sought by the Ikawa Distillery. During this process, careful attention is paid to the balance of “husk,” “grits,” and “flour” (fine powder). Meticulous adjustments are made each time to prevent an excess of flour, which can cause astringency and a heavy mouthfeel.

With their flavor concept and production methods now clearly defined, three years after distillation began, the Ikawa Distillery’s current releases are not yet fully established regular products. Instead, they are infusing their unique philosophy into a lineup that can only be created “right now,” while the brand is still young.

The first release was the “Lab Series,” featuring spirits aged under three years. This series serves as a record of their experiments to understand the “paints” (base spirits) they possess. Following this, they now offer the “Dessin Series.”

The labels feature line drawings of Fauna (ptarmigan) and Flora (alpine plants) inhabiting the Southern Alps. The deliberate absence of color signifies that the whisky is still maturing, still “unfinished.” When color is added to these sketches, and the full panorama of the Southern Alps is depicted in color, the whisky that represents Ikawa Distillery’s “masterpiece” will be born.

“We want you to savor the nature of Ikawa right now, in this moment. Enjoying the layered, unfinished passage of time is part of the true pleasure of whisky,” says Director Setoko.

The 2025 Feat That Astonished the World: Ikawa Proved the Power of “Quality”

In recent years, this supposedly “unfinished” whisky has been winning high praise at international competitions one after another, shocking the world.

At the “Bartender Spirits Awards 2025” held in the United States, the Dessin Series’ “Flora 2024” was honored as “Single Malt Whisky of the Year,” while “Fauna 2025” was named “Japanese Whisky of the Year.”

Furthermore, “Flora 2024” also won Gold Medals at the “San Francisco World Spirits Competition 2025,” considered one of the world’s three major spirits competitions, and at the “International Wine & Spirit Competition 2025” held in the UK, the home of whisky, proving its exceptional quality.

Furthermore, not only its quality but also its project initiatives have been highly praised. In September 2025, it received the “Minister of Finance Award,” one of the highest honors, at the “8th Eco-Pro Awards” held at Tokyo Big Sight. In December, it won the Sustainable Design Award at the “Good Life Awards” hosted by the Ministry of the Environment. Its forest conservation activities through whisky production are drawing attention as a role model for a sustainable society.

Pride in “Paper Making” Transformed into “Whisky”: An Unconventional Group of Craftsmen

The Ikawa Distillery also boasts an unconventional team of makers. Led by Director Setou, who oversees operations, many staff members were originally engineers who made “paper” at Tokushu Tokai Paper. Members recruited through an internal company call for applications included diverse backgrounds like automotive mechanics and alcohol production experience, but all started from scratch regarding whisky making.

Their only prior whisky-making experience was Director Setoguchi’s roughly one-year apprenticeship at Mars Shinshu Distillery in Nagano Prefecture when the project began.

Nevertheless, the meticulous process management honed in paper manufacturing, their keen observational skills that never miss a flaw, and their machine maintenance expertise all contribute to the stability of the delicate distillation process.

Reviving “Domestic Mizunara Oak Casks” with Shizuoka’s Master Carpenters

The company had begun to develop distinctive characteristics in its whisky.

The next step they considered was manufacturing whisky barrels using thinned Mizunara oak and fallen trees from their company-owned forest.

Barrels are a crucial element determining whisky’s flavor. Typically, most distilleries import used sherry or bourbon barrels from overseas. But the company thought: “If we have trees in the mountains, why not make our own barrels? Aging whisky in barrels made from wood grown in our own forests would be a significant advantage.”

They approached Mr. Sugiyama and his son, master carpenters specializing in traditional Japanese temple architecture, based in Shizuoka City.

“If we take apart a used barrel, we can understand its structure and build one ourselves.”

The barrel-making project, launched with such confident words, proved far from straightforward. Even for these master carpenters, the structure of a “barrel” that wouldn’t leak liquid was uncharted territory.

Led by the Sugiyama family, they commissioned a local sheet metal worker to make the hoops (the iron bands that tighten the barrel), while a local sawmill cut the logs. This truly “All Shizuoka” barrel-making effort, harnessing the city’s artisan network, was set in motion.

After about three years, the domestically produced Mizunara oak barrels were finally completed. They imparted a honey-like sweetness and a unique aroma reminiscent of agarwood—considered the pinnacle of aromatic woods—to the whisky. This captured the very essence of the subtle, refined “Japanese” nuance the company sought.

Though still only a few percent of the total, the raw spirit aged in barrels made from their own timber has earned high praise from experts.

For the forest a century from now. The philosophy poured into every glass.

Whiskey from the Ikawa Distillery is by no means inexpensive compared to market prices. There are clear reasons for this.

One is the production cost incurred in the remote, harsh environment. The other is that a portion of the sales proceeds is directly allocated to “conserving the Southern Alps.”

Purchasing this whisky is synonymous with investing in activities that protect the natural environment of the Southern Alps and nurture forests for the next century.

What the company creates is the very essence of the Southern Alps’ landscape and the vision of its forests a century from now.

This challenge has only just begun. It’s still in the “sketch” phase, but the rich waters, Mizunara oak, and harsh winters of the Southern Alps are transforming the raw spirit into amber.

No definitive date has been set for releasing the final version. Each batch of raw spirit has its own character, and their peak maturation points vary. Even the currently released “Flora” and “Fauna,” though unfinished, are delicious enough to be proudly enjoyed.That is precisely why, when this amber drop achieves a flavor surpassing our current whiskies—including the aromas and flavors gained through long aging—it will finally fill glasses worldwide, creating a significant cycle that protects Japan’s rich forests. To ensure these forests remain as beautiful as ever 100 years from now, the stills continue to turn quietly deep in the mountains today.

In 2026, the Igawa Distillery will collaborate with the Shizuoka Distillery, also located within Shizuoka City, to host a distillery hopping tour titled “Taste the Water and Forests of Shizuoka City: Distillery Hopping.” Though both facilities are within the city, they are quite distant from each other, making this a two-day, one-night hopping itinerary.
Guided by each distiller, this tour offers an immersive experience into the essence of whisky making—from brewing methods to collaborative efforts with the local community.

*This tour is not held during the snowy winter season. Preparations are currently underway for tours starting April 2026 and later. Please check the latest information on the website below.
https://travel.daitetsu-adv.co.jp/

The post Whiskey brewed in the depths of the Southern Alps, safeguarding forests for a century to come. The tale woven by “Juyama” / Shizuoka City, Shizuoka Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

In Sakunami, a western district of Sendai City, Miyagi Prefecture, known as a hot spring resort, stands a distillery for Japanese whisky, which has sparked a global boom. This is the Miyagikyo Distillery, part of Nikka Whisky Distillers Inc.’s Sendai Plant.This location, surrounded by two clear streams, the Hirose River and the Nikkawa River, is also known for being discovered by Takeshi, the son of the founder, Masataka Taketsuru. What kind of place is this that sparked the boom?

In Pursuit of New Whisky Flavors

Masataka Taketsuru, founder of Nikka Whisky and often called the “Father of Japanese Whisky,” first built his distillery in Yoichi Town, Hokkaido. The Yoichi Distillery produces malt whisky made solely from barley malt. Characterized by its robust smoky flavor, it is crafted using the traditional “coal-fired direct fire distillation” method under the cool, humid climate.

After studying whisky making in Scotland, Masataka began to envision creating a base spirit in Japan with characteristics distinct from Yoichi.

Masataka therefore tasked his son, Takeshi, with the mission of “finding a place with good water.” Water was a crucial element that would determine the flavor and character of the whisky. Within the basic criteria of an annual average temperature around 10°C and the mountainous Tohoku region, he had Takeshi search various locations.

Miyagikyo, surrounded by lush forests, proved ideal for whisky production.

After identifying several candidate sites, the first place Takehiro brought Masataka was Miyagikyo. Masataka tasted a watered-down sample using water from the Shinkawa River and was deeply impressed by its deliciousness. He decided to build the distillery here without even visiting the other potential locations. Creating whiskey with a distinct flavor requires a distinct environment. Since Yoichi Town is near the sea, Masataka also wanted the other distillery to be built within a forest.

A New Taste Born from “Soft Water”

Masataka’s vision of “good water” was soft water with low mineral content. The underground water of the Shinkawa River is exceptionally soft, making it ideal for whisky production. Factory Manager Kinji Sasamura explained that while they test the water composition several times a year, it remains remarkably stable and consistent, another reason for choosing Shinkawa water.

Furthermore, Masataka’s conviction that “you cannot make delicious whisky without respecting nature” was reflected throughout the distillery’s construction. Tree felling was minimized, and power lines on the premises were buried underground wherever possible. Meticulous attention was paid to every detail, including creating pathways to showcase the brick-style buildings designed to harmonize with Miyagikyo’s rich natural landscape.

Thus, in 1969, the Miyagikyo Distillery was completed.Masataka, who wanted to create a whisky entirely different from Yoichi Distillery’s, reportedly uttered just one word—”Different…”—when he tasted the finished spirit (the most flavorful core part obtained during distillation). Amidst the growing tension around him, Mr. Sasamura cheerfully explained, “It seems he meant, ‘Thank you for making a whisky different from Yoichi Distillery’s.'”

Pursuing Distinctive Japanese Whisky

To produce distinct whiskies at Yoichi and Miyagikyo, the shape of the pot stills used in the distillation process was also changed. Altering the distillation method changes the weight and lightness of the flavor.

At Yoichi Distillery, they use a “straight-head type” pot still with a vertical profile to create a rich, full-bodied malt whisky.

Conversely, Miyagikyo Distillery employs a “bulge-type” still with a rounded profile, yielding a softer malt whisky. Furthermore, for producing grain whisky primarily from corn and other grains, they use a “Cafe-style continuous still,” creating rich base spirits that retain the raw material’s aroma, sweetness, and depth.

Blended whisky is created by combining these distinct malt whiskies with grain whisky. Through the precise blending and harmonization of multiple base spirits, a flavor profile with depth and unity is achieved. It is precisely because of the distinct personalities of the Yoichi and Miyagikyo distilleries that such a diverse range of whiskies is born.

The Serious “Base Whisky Shortage” Occurring Behind the Global Boom

Since the year 2000, Japanese whisky has consistently won awards at international competitions. Miyagikyo Distillery’s “Single Malt Miyagikyo” and “Single Malt Miyagikyo 12 Years Old” have also received numerous accolades at the International Spirits Challenge (ISC) and the World Whisky Awards (WWA).Whisky enthusiasts worldwide have taken notice of its unique style, which respects Scottish tradition while utilizing Japan’s distinctive, delicate production methods and ingredients. Demand is growing not only domestically but especially from overseas markets like China, the United States, and France.

Mr. Sasamura states, “Thankfully, the market is growing.”He explains that the “Taketsuru” whisky, a blend of spirits from the Yoichi and Miyagikyo distilleries, has seen its stock dwindle. This is partly due to the highball boom since the late 2000s and the impact of the NHK morning drama “Massan,” which aired from autumn 2014 and was modeled on Masataka Taketsuru. While there is stock distilled during the drama’s broadcast period, whisky requires long maturation, making it difficult to maintain ample supply for shipment.

Blending to Bring Out the Whisky’s Subtle Flavors

When asked about whisky flavor, Mr. Sasamura explained that the base spirit ages in casks for several years, building its quality before undergoing adjustments like blending and dilution. Since the taste of the base spirit varies depending on the origin of the casks, these adjustments are made during the final blending stage.

The Key to Deepening Flavor: “The Cask”

Whiskey’s flavor is shaped when the blender combines base spirits with different personalities to achieve the final finish. Since maturation changes annually, the blender samples the base spirits from aging barrels each year and repeatedly adjusts the recipe.

Globally popular for maturation are sherry casks. Since these are reused casks that previously held sherry, they impart sherry accents to the whisky, resulting in a sweet aroma and impactful flavor. When using these casks, the interior is often re-charred. The charring method itself also alters the flavor.

For a whisky that will speak of Japan’s terroir decades from now

We asked about Nikka Whisky’s current challenges. Mr. Sasamura stated, “We continue to face a situation where we cannot fully meet customer demand due to a shortage of stored whisky stock.”

His regret at being unable to meet calls for increased production was palpable. However, guided by the principle that “the mash we prepare now will become our asset in several years,” they are advancing plans for increased production. Further investment is planned to expand production capacity.

Thus, the raw spirits currently resting quietly in barrels are not only the company’s assets but can also be considered important “cultural assets of Japan” when discussing the future of Japanese whisky.

Japanese whisky is experiencing a global boom. Market trends and how Nikka Whisky will be evaluated going forward are developments we cannot take our eyes off.

The post The current batches will become the assets of Japanese whisky years from now Nikka Whisky / Sendai City, Miyagi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Hirako Shuzo, brewing sake since 1861 in Ishinomaki City, home to the Sanriku and Kinkasan offshore fishing grounds—one of the world’s three great fishing areas. Their flagship brand, “Hitakami,” is a sake dedicated not to competing for flamboyance, but to enhancing sushi. Meticulous fermentation control, possible only in a small brewery, and sake born from land sharing the fishing grounds now earns deep trust from sushi chefs nationwide.

“Sake that pairs well with sushi” wasn’t the original goal

Hirako Shuzo’s “Hitakami” has won a total of 18 gold medals at the National New Sake Appraisal and has also been honored with the Miyagi Prefectural Governor’s Award (the highest prize) at the Miyagi Prefecture Sake Appraisal. However, the path to being recognized as “sake that pairs well with sushi” was far from smooth sailing.

The resolve that began with the declaration to “close the brewery”

Born as the son of the fourth-generation owner of Heikō Shuzō, Takahiro Hirai had no intention of taking over the family business after graduating from a university in Miyagi Prefecture. He instead found employment in Tokyo. However, a turning point came suddenly. In his second year as a working adult, his father came to Tokyo and announced, “We’re closing the brewery.”

At that time, the sake industry was under pressure from shochu and beer, with many breweries closing down. While Heikō Shuzō had long been beloved locally under the brand name “Shinzeki,” its performance had significantly declined. Working in the sake division of a wholesaler, Hirai began to recognize the appeal of his family business through his interactions with various breweries and sake companies.”I couldn’t accept why we had to close. Even if my father couldn’t do it, I could,” he strongly protested, deciding to take over the brewery. He returned to Ishinomaki in 1987, but achieving his ideal sake-making didn’t happen immediately.

Days of searching for a unique identity to create marketable sake

After the bubble burst, the sake industry was in the midst of fierce price competition. Mass production and mass distribution became the norm, leaving small regional breweries with no choice but to load their trucks and sell door-to-door. Though Hirai had taken over with high hopes, he often found himself wanting to turn away from the harsh reality, far tougher than he’d imagined.

Meanwhile, signs of a local sake boom were emerging, demanding answers to “how to deliver it” and “how to get chosen.” Existing products like “Shin-Sekki” couldn’t sustain the business, and he agonized constantly over the future. It was during this struggle that he arrived at “Hidaka-mi.”

“While randomly researching discontinued products, I noticed ‘Hidakami,’ a sake my father had brewed. I liked the sound of ‘looking up to the sun.’ Upon investigation, I learned it was a term deeply connected to this region. I felt it was fitting for us, brewing sake in Ishinomaki.”

The name “Hidaka-mi” embodies both the land’s history and their own resolve. They resolved to reintroduce this name, carrying both meanings. They then decided to streamline their product lineup and refresh their brand image, shifting from “Oyasan Seki” to “Hidaka-mi.”

Shifting Focus to “Sake That Pairs Well with Sushi”

In 1990, sales of the ginjo sake “Hidakami” began. At that time, the sake market tended to view ginjo status as a benchmark for quality, making it essential to first establish a foundation for recognition. Before articulating a clear concept, this was a tactical move to stand at the starting line where brewers could be fairly evaluated. They continued selling the sake while developing distribution channels, but the situation didn’t improve immediately.Faced with the reality of not being chosen, we continually pondered not just how to brew, but “what purpose this sake serves.”

Finding a path forward in its role to complement cuisine

The clue to becoming a “chosen sake” came when a colleague studying brewing at the Brewing Research Institute invited him to a sushi restaurant in Kanazawa. The sushi served there wasn’t part of a course meal; the sushi itself was the star. For Hirai, who was used to eating sushi within kaiseki cuisine, this experience was a shock. He was moved by how the rice and topping became one, melting in his mouth.When he asked the sushi chef to pair his sake with the sushi, he received an unexpected response.

“The aroma is good. But when paired with the sushi, the sake overpowers it.”

In that moment, he realized that a sake with a bold, floral aroma could overwhelm the delicate qualities of a dish like sushi. “Sake shouldn’t be the star; it should support the food,” he decided. “ I’ll make a sake that doesn’t interfere with sushi’s subtlety, but rather enhances it. “

The “ultra-dry junmai sake” he arrived at after years of effort

The sake aimed for as a perfect match for sushi was an ultra-dry junmai sake with a clean finish and no off-flavors. The goal was to not interfere with the delicate umami and flavors of seafood, while gently washing down the fat and the sweetness of the rice. To determine the ideal level of dryness for sushi, the brewer conveyed the vision, repeated the brewing process, and brought samples to sushi restaurants, enduring harsh critiques each time.

Through meticulous fermentation control and aging, we finally perfected “Hidakami Ultra Dry Junmai Sake” in 2008. It holds its character perfectly whether served chilled or warmed, enhancing the umami of fish.

Its soft mouthfeel and clean finish, especially its excellent pairing with red fish, earned it high praise as a dining sake. Born in Ishinomaki, where delicious seasonal fish are caught year-round, it adopted the catchphrase: “If you’re pairing with fish, it’s got to be Hidaka-mi.”

Facing adversity and refining quality

However, the Great East Japan Earthquake struck in 2011, with its epicenter in the Pacific off the Sanriku coast. “Just as we were getting started, the disaster hit,” recalls Mr. Hirai.

Moving forward with the support of sushi chefs

The Great East Japan Earthquake inflicted devastating tsunami damage on Hirako Shuzo. The koji room, shubo room, and fermentation room—essential for sake brewing—became unusable, plunging the brewery into an uncertain future. Yet Hirai remained forward-looking: “True recovery means evolving from this point.” He renovated the entire facility with stainless steel, establishing an environment enabling strict temperature and hygiene control. The brewery was reborn, capable of pursuing even more stable quality than before.

A major source of support during this rebuilding process came from the sushi chefs he had befriended while searching for “sake that pairs well with sushi.” They rushed to Ishinomaki with their teams to provide meals.

Continuing to Release New Products Without Pause

Born during this rebuilding effort was the Junmai Ginjo sake “Yasuke,” released in 2012.Off the Sanriku coast and Kinkasan Island, seafood with a delicate sweetness—such as shellfish and white-fleshed fish—is commonly landed. However, the “Hidakami Super Dry Junmai Sake” sometimes overemphasized this subtle umami. Thus, “Yasuke” was born, aiming to be a softer sake that enhances the natural sweetness of ingredients.

Its defining characteristic is the harmonious balance of a rich, full-bodied umami flavor and a sharp, clean finish. While offering a gentle taste, its transparent clarity allows it to slip away smoothly, ensuring it doesn’t overpower the lingering flavors of food. It is particularly renowned for its excellent pairing with sweet seafood like white fish and squid.At the “SAKE COMPETITION 2025,” which determines the world’s best commercially available sake, it won Bronze in the Junmai Ginjo category.

The sake’s name originates from the kabuki play “Yoshitsune Senbonzakura” and has historically been used in the entertainment district to refer to sushi. It revives this name in modern times, embodying respect for sushi culture and the connection with sushi artisans.

Through sake brewing, we aim to create moments of happiness for those who drink it.

“We want to be the unsung hero supporting the deliciousness of sushi,” says Mr. Hirai. For him, Hidaka-mi is not a sake that asserts itself. Based on the pairing concept where food and sake complement each other’s flavors, the focus is on enriching the sushi-eating experience itself.

While currently exporting overseas, they avoid indiscriminately expanding distribution channels. They engage only with chefs and restaurants who share their philosophy and approach them saying, “We want to use Hirai’s sake.”

Hidaka Shuzo, bearing the name of the sun-blessed land “Hidaka Country,” continues to challenge itself in sake brewing that can only be done here, in this land, in this brewery. Today, “Hidaka” is a sake you’ll almost certainly find in any sushi restaurant. We encourage you to try it as a sake that makes that moment of bringing sushi to your mouth an even more special time.

The post Takahiro Hirai, President of Hirako Shuzo, Pursuing “Sake That Pairs Well with Sushi” by the Rich Sea / Ishinomaki City, Miyagi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Idejōzōten, a long-established sake brewery with over 300 years of history dating back to the Edo period. Nestled at the northern foot of Mount Fuji, on the shores of Lake Kawaguchi, this brewery has continued making sake for generations. In recent years, it has embarked on a new venture: crafting its own unique whiskey. We spoke with the next-generation representative about his vision for preserving the taste of their traditional sake while embracing this new challenge, and about the future of this venerable brewery.

A Brewery by the Lake

Lake Kawaguchi, one of the Fuji Five Lakes at the foot of Mount Fuji, attracts many tourists every year. Nearby stands the long-established brewery “Ide Brewery,” which has been in operation since the mid-Edo period, over 300 years ago. We spoke with Takaoshi Ide, the 22nd-generation owner, who is currently involved in brewing and selling sake, and now also in the new venture of whisky production.

A brewery that began with soy sauce production

The origins of “Ide Brewery” date back to around 1700. Located on the northern foothills of Mount Fuji, this region boasts abundant spring and groundwater. However, the absence of rivers and the hard bedrock made digging irrigation channels difficult. Consequently, the land was unsuitable for supplying water to rice paddies and thus not ideal for growing rice, the key ingredient for sake.Conversely, soybean cultivation using rainwater flourished. Consequently, the 11th generation owner, Yogoemon Ide, opened a brewery to begin brewing soy sauce using these soybeans. Around 1850, the 16th generation owner, Yogoemon Ide, recognized the cool climate at an elevation of 850 meters and the abundant spring water flowing from Mount Fuji.He began sourcing rice from regions within Yamanashi Prefecture where rice cultivation was thriving and started brewing sake. This marked the beginning of sake production at Ide Brewery.

While it’s difficult to source all ingredients solely from rice grown in the northern foothills region, which has few paddy fields, the brewery now procures rice from various farmers nationwide, primarily within Yamanashi Prefecture. However, driven by the desire to “create sake that becomes a source of pride for local people,” they have recently expanded their offerings to include brands like the special junmai sake “Hokuroku,” made using “Tamasakae” rice from the northern foothills of Mount Fuji.However, no matter how carefully suppliers are selected, some variation in rice quality based on the year and region is unavoidable. “I believe a key technical point in sake brewing is how to minimize impact on the product and effectively deliver the brewery’s signature taste, the consistent flavor, to consumers,” said Ushun, revealing confidence in his company’s techniques.

Sake Pride of Ide Brewery

With “using Fuji Mountain spring water” as the overarching concept, Ushun states, “We strive to create pure sake that upholds that image.” The representative brand of Ide Brewery is “Kai no Kaiun” (Fortune of Kai). Around 1850, when sake brewing began, it coincided with the marriage of Princess Kazunomiya.Inspired by this, the sake developed with the wish “for fortune to open and lead to happiness” was named “Kaiun” (Good Fortune). Later, in 1985, Kaiun, beloved by people for many years, was renamed Kai no Kaiun to emphasize its regional identity as a Yamanashi brewery, and it continues to be brewed today. Its taste is smooth on the palate with a slightly dry flavor.It finishes cleanly, making it the perfect accompaniment to a meal.

Kai no Kaiun: Crisp and Unwavering

The quality of Iide Brewery’s sake is underpinned by the “Fuji Water” flowing directly beneath the brewery. This underground water, drawn from a point at approximately 1,100 meters above sea level, takes 80 years to pass through the volcanic layers of Mount Fuji. It is then naturally filtered through basalt layers and other formations, resulting in a refined, crystal-clear softness. This water is the very core of the “clean sake quality” the brewery strives for.”Refreshing and clean.” This fundamental principle remains unwavering. The pleasant sharpness of their flagship brand, “Kai no Kaiun,” harmonizes with the transparency of Fuji’s water, enhancing its appeal as a sake to enjoy with meals.

For fermentation, stable association-type yeast is used, prioritizing the straightforward expression of the ingredients’ flavors while minimizing off-flavors. Among these steps, Mr. Ushun emphasizes the “particularly crucial” practice of pasteurization immediately after pressing. Minimizing exposure to air and meticulous management to stabilize the sake are indispensable.After pasteurization, the sake is stored quietly in an environment with minimal temperature fluctuations. Meanwhile, the unpasteurized sake is kept year-round in refrigerators maintained below 0°C. This meticulous management, dedicated to preserving the delicate flavor, creates a sake of unwavering purity.

“Raw Unpasteurized Sake” You Can Only Taste Here

The shop “Sakaboushi,” attached to the brewery, offers a lineup including sake and foods made using sake lees, a byproduct of the brewing process. Additionally, since April 2010, tours of the brewery have been available to the general public.They also offer a limited-edition unpasteurized sake, “Special Junmai Nama Genshu ‘Kakoi’,” available only to visitors. During sake brewing, rice is fermented to produce alcohol. The liquid pressed from the mash (moromi), a mixture of fermented rice and sake, is called nama genshu.Most commercially distributed sake undergoes pasteurization (hi-ire) for sterilization and dilution with water to adjust alcohol content at this stage. However, Special Junmai Nama Genshu “Kakoi” skips these processes entirely. Experience the unadulterated alcohol sensation and fragrant rice flavor of “pressed and served as is.” Savor its smooth taste and the faint lingering ginjo aroma.

A New Challenge: Launching the “Fuji North Foot Distillery”

In July 2020, Ide Brewery embarked on a new challenge, beginning whisky production under the brand name “Fuji North Foot Distillery.” Globally, alcoholic beverages are broadly categorized into “brewed spirits,” made by fermenting raw materials like rice or barley, and “distilled spirits,” created by heating the fermented liquid, vaporizing it, cooling it, and condensing it back into liquid form.For whisky specifically, the distilled base spirit must undergo “aging” – long-term storage in wooden casks. For Ide Brewery, which had previously focused solely on brewing, the processes of “distillation” and “aging” were entirely new territory.

“We had knowledge and hands-on experience with fermentation, but distillation and aging were completely unknown to us. We truly started from scratch,”

“It took several years to finally establish our own unique production methods, but there’s still so much to learn,” Ushun shares, reflecting on the challenges. While his desire to make distilled spirits grew stronger, he hesitated about the significant capital investment required to start whisky production. What ultimately pushed him forward was the noticeable increase in inbound demand in recent years.Even if foreign visitors to the brewery primarily came for sake, wouldn’t they be even happier if the lineup included a whiskey originating overseas? It was this thought that led him to decide to take the plunge into whiskey production.

Whiskey made from rice by a sake brewery

“Japanese whiskey is currently popular worldwide. I believe one factor is its drinkability. While maintaining that, I want to express the unique character of Ide Brewery.”

Many of the aging barrels used for Japanese whiskey are made from Mizunara oak, which imparts an elegant, sweet aroma and a subtle sweetness to the whiskey. Beyond this “drinkability,” Ide Brewery’s whiskey incorporates an extra layer of craftsmanship. One example is using “sake yeast” for fermentation, instead of the typical whiskey yeast.Another is the use of rice, the same base ingredient as sake, instead of the more common corn, rye, or wheat. This adds a distinct sweetness derived from the rice, resulting in a whisky with a deeper, smoother mouthfeel. Behind these meticulous choices lies the desire to “create a whisky that only we can make.””A rice-based whiskey made by a sake brewery. I believe it possesses a unique character you won’t find elsewhere,” states Ushun proudly. Currently, they offer two products: the whiskey ‘Taijukai’, made with the aforementioned sake yeast and rice, and the ‘Fuji Kitakoku Distillery Highball’, which incorporates carbonated water and spring water to further enhance its “drinkability”.

“This product was created to widely announce our new venture: ‘Ide Jozoten, known for making sake, has started making whisky.’ We’re excited to see how the market responds.”

Creating an everyday sake that never gets old

Mr. Ushun, who will lead Ide Brewery as its 22nd-generation head in the future, shared his vision: “I want to continue making sake without straying from the core characteristics that define Ide Brewery’s current flavor profile: ‘refreshing clarity’ and ‘elegant purity.'” He also expressed his enthusiasm for focusing on brewing “Kai no Kaiun,” a standard sake.”While ‘special designation sake’ tends to draw attention across Japan these days, I also want to properly craft ‘ordinary sake,’ which has been deeply rooted in daily life for generations.”

Long before the “Sake Production and Quality Indication Standards” were established, “Kai no Kaiun” has been brewed without altering its flavor since 1850. It represents the unwavering identity of Ide Brewery. “It may not be flashy, but it has been cherished as a companion for ‘ordinary’ moments, like family meals at the daily dinner table. I hope it continues to be loved by people without ever growing tiresome.”There is an irreplaceable happiness in being able to be “ordinary,” in being able to live everyday life. The sentiment poured into “Kai no Kaiun” connects the history and spirit of Ide Brewery.

The Future of Ide Brewery

“Sake, representing Japanese culture, will continue to attract global attention given recent inbound demand. That’s precisely why I believe there’s ample need to keep producing ‘Kai no Kaiun,’ which connects time-honored traditions to the present. Building on this strong foundation, we aim to develop products like whiskey that meet modern needs. Times keep changing, after all.”

Ide Brewery’s sake-making journey began with soy sauce production, rooted in observing the region’s unique characteristics and blessings. Moving forward, the brewery will remain deeply connected to the community, steadfastly preserving its inherited flavors while flexibly adapting to changing times and embracing new challenges.

The post Traditional Sake and Innovative Whiskey Crafted with Fuji Spring Water: “Ide Brewery” / Minamitsuru District, Fujikawaguchiko Town, Yamanashi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Hachinohe Shuzo has been brewing sake continuously for 250 years since its founding in 1775.In 1910 (Meiji 43), they trademarked “Mutsu Otokoyama.” Then, under the current head, the eighth-generation Komai Shōzaburō, they introduced the renowned sake “Mutsu Hassen” to the world in 1998 (Heisei 10). Today, the eighth-generation head’s two sons, Managing Director Shūsuke and Toji (Master Brewer) Shinsuke, lead the brewery. They preserve tradition while continuing to challenge themselves for the next generation.

The Eighth Generation Who Blazed the Trail and Created the Premium Sake

The history of Hachinohe Shuzo began with the first Komai Shosaburo, who left Omi Province during the Genbun era and entered the sake brewing trade in Mutsu. He established a brewery in southern Aomori Prefecture in 1775 (An’ei 4).The brewery relocated to Hachinohe during the Meiji period. The current brewery building, still in use today, was constructed during the Taisho era. Situated along the Nitta River, it has long been cherished as an iconic symbol of Minato Town.

Incidentally, around 1984, when the current head, the eighth-generation Komai Shōzaburō, joined the brewery as a successor, the Komai family was not operating as a single brewery. Instead, they were part of a cooperative-like organization formed under the wartime Corporate Reorganization Order.

This Corporate Reorganization Order consolidated the 16 sake breweries that existed before the war into just five.

The Komai family initially complied with this structure, but the organization’s performance was lackluster. Sales were poor for all brands except the Komai family’s own Mutsu Otokoyama.

Witnessing this situation, Shōzaburō felt a sense of crisis, thinking, “If things continue like this, the Komai family’s sake brewing will eventually become unsustainable.” He sought independence from the organization. He rented a new brewery and established the new company “Hassen Shuzō.”

He then created the new brand “Mutsu Hassen” and changed the company name to “Hachinohe Shuzo” in 1999. In 2009, he moved back from the rented brewery to the current one, making a fresh start with Mutsu Otokoyama and Mutsu Hassen as the pillars.

The Diverse Flavors of “Mutsu Hassen”

The name “Hassen” originates from the Chinese tale of the Drunken Immortals (a story of eight immortal drinkers). “I was deeply moved by the anecdotes of these drunken immortals and the fascinating ways they enjoyed sake,” Shōzaburō explains. “I named this sake with the hope that people would enjoy it in the same state of blissful intoxication.”

Based on a modern brand concept of “vibrant and fruity,” the lineup offers a wide variety of items. Over 20 types of standard and seasonal limited-edition sakes are always available, with new types like sparkling sake, kijo-shu (sake made with rice lees), and high-acidity sake continuously being developed. This thoroughly delights fans and embodies the sentiment behind the name.

“Originality is key,” Shōzaburō states. “To thrive in today’s sake industry, where breweries nationwide are releasing delicious sakes one after another, we want to clearly express what makes Hachinohe Shuzō unique. To highlight our identity as an Aomori brewery, we switched to using only Aomori-grown rice when we created Hassen.The yeast is also an original Aomori strain. Furthermore, by brewing with local spring water and expressing the land’s terroir, we aim to create sake that truly represents the region.” For the rice, they directly contract with farmers, working together as partners in sake production. “However, compared to wine grapes, for example, it’s difficult to differentiate sake based on rice alone. Within that challenge, how can we express our uniqueness? Hassen is a brand that allows us to challenge ourselves with a wide range of product development, so we are constantly researching.”

The results of this research are evident in their awards.In recent years, it has received high praise at international competitions like France’s “Kura Master” and London’s “International Wine Challenge.” “Moving forward, we’ll focus more on the overseas market and continue our outreach,” says Shōzaburō. The brand has already expanded into 28 countries and aims for 50. “At the same time, we want to work hard to stimulate demand in the shrinking domestic market. After all, Japanese sake is recognized worldwide alongside Japanese food culture.”

Mutsunomiyama: Captivating with Simplicity

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“Mutsu Oyama” is the brewery’s founding brand. It was the first trademark in Japan to use the name “Oyama,” a term long used by breweries nationwide for renowned sake brands. For over 100 years since its trademark registration, it has been the brewery’s mainstay, positioned as a traditional brand line in contrast to the Hassen brand.”Mutsu Otokoyama has a long history as a beloved local sake. While maintaining the traditional image of ‘Otokoyama means dry sake,’ we also emphasize its roots in a fishing town. It’s a sake meant for evening drinks with meals. It’s refreshingly crisp and clean, ensuring you never tire of it,” says Shōzaburō.

Its simplicity is also a defining feature, with two basic labels: Classic and Ultra Dry. It remains a brand with a loyal fan base. Overseas, it receives favorable reviews in markets like the United States, where dry-style sakes tend to be preferred.

The difference from the diverse Mutsu Hassen lineup is clear; each brand has its own established direction, resulting in a broad fan base. This is the brewery’s greatest strength.

Sake Brewing in the Reiwa Era: A Brotherly Challenge

For Shōzaburō’s two sons, older brother Shūsuke and younger brother Shinsuke, the brewery was a familiar place from childhood. It was their playground, and they sometimes helped with work. Today, the Komai brothers manage the brewery’s operations: Shūsuke as Managing Director and Shinsuke as Toji (Master Brewer).

Shusuke joined the brewery in 2002 (Heisei 14). He witnessed Shōzaburō’s challenging times firsthand and has worked alongside him for nearly 20 years as his trusted partner, through to the present day.

After graduating from university in Tokyo, the younger brother, Shinsuke, worked for a beverage manufacturer in the capital. However, he returned to the brewery in 2009. He joined the brewery urgently to help transform the seasonal winter employment system for sake brewing into a year-round staff system. Four years later, he replaced the previous master brewer and took on the role of responsible brewer.

It has been over a decade since the two brothers began managing the sake brewing business in earnest. Through their continuous study and research, Hachinohe Shuzo’s sake brewing evolves daily.

“Fundamentally, we want to make clean sake. Sake that is easy to drink, straightforward, and delicious. Our brewery has a wide range of products, but we strive daily to brew sake that is genuinely delicious no matter which one you drink, and that also has a sense of clarity,” says Shinsuke. “There are trends of the times, and I feel that sweet, acidic sake still sells well now. Even within that, we are conscious of not relying too much on sweetness.”

Using Aomori yeast and rice to express the character of Aomori’s local sake

As Shōzaburō mentioned, the brewery uses Aomori-grown rice and Aomori’s original yeast strains. The five basic rice varieties are “Masshigura,” “Reimei,” “Gin-Eboshi,” “Hana-Omoi,” and “Hanabuki.” Masshigura and Reimei are table rice, while Gin-Eboshi, Hana-Omoi, and Hanabuki are sake-brewing rice varieties.The two table rice varieties are selected when aiming for a clean, crisp finish. The most frequently used is Hanabuki, characterized by its elegant flavor and vibrant aroma. “While Aomori rice generally tends to express its flavor well, Hanabuki often excels by drawing out the rice’s umami to its absolute limit,” Shinsuke explains.

They utilize four distinct original Aomori yeasts, selecting them individually or blending them to define the flavor. Hassen uses Mahoroba Gin, which highly produces the aromatic compound “ethyl caproate” – known for its fresh, juicy aroma reminiscent of apples and pears – as its base.while Otokoyama uses Mahoroba Hana, which produces a mild aroma within the isoamyl acetate family, resulting in a sake suited for pairing with food.

The use of Hachinohe’s renowned “Kanisawa Spring Water” as brewing water is another mark of originality. Hachinohe Shuzo pursues a distinctive character achievable only through its unique flavor profile.

250 years of history, and the future ahead

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With a playful spirit, Shinsuke smiles, “I want to use local ingredients to make not just sake, but all kinds of alcoholic beverages. It would be interesting to have a lineup where our sake alone could cover the entire table.”

Hidesuke, in his supervisory role, adds, “While sake is our foundation,” and then, narrowing his eyes, continues, “One of our brewery’s strengths is our wide variety. We want to design products under the Mutsu Hassen brand that can be enjoyed throughout a course meal, from before the meal to after.” The brothers are perfectly in sync.

These two carry the brewery’s 250-year history on their shoulders and value their relationship with the community as much as the sake-making itself. “Here in the Minato area, the population is steadily declining, and we’re seeing a trend of decline, like major festivals disappearing. In that sense, we have this desire to become something that can revitalize the region again. But that won’t happen unless we build our own strength. For example, we offer brewery tours, but to attract more people, we need to raise our profile even further.Also, to increase local employment, we need to boost sales. To achieve these goals, we first need to solidify our foundation as a brewery,” says Shusuke. His strong determination was evident in his resolute gaze. We look forward to the future endeavors of these two individuals, focused on both carrying on the tradition and looking toward the world.

The post Hachinohe Shuzo Co., Ltd. / Hachinohe City, Aomori Prefecture 250 Years Since Founding: Carrying an Unwavering Spirit to the Next Generation first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Pure clarity and a first taste of deliciousness. The craft saké brewed by haccoba-Craft Sake Brewery in Minamisoma, Fukushima Prefecture, instantly captivates you. The representative of the brewery, Taisuke Sato, lightly enjoys the experimental and free brewing of sake in the area he has moved to. The young brewer has a big dream to go global with craft saké and a passion for the region’s reconstruction after the Great East Japan Earthquake.

Sake brewing from scratch in Minamisoma, where reconstruction efforts are underway

haccoba-Craft Sake Brewery” (haccoba) was established in February 2021 under the concept of “a sake brewery that grows together. The brewery, which was renovated from a 50-year-old house, is located in Odakaku, Minamisoma City, Fukushima Prefecture, an area where all residents were temporarily evacuated due to the nuclear power plant accident after the Great East Japan Earthquake in 2011.

In fact, my birthday is March 11. I was living in Saitama at the time of the disaster, and every year on my birthday, I feel frustrated that I have done nothing to help the affected areas, and I wanted to someday engage in activities that would help the recovery of the region,” he says.

Enthralled by the Beauty of Fermentation Culture, Entered the Sake Brewing Business

After getting hooked on sake as a university student, Mr. Sato worked for an IT company after graduation, and later found a “sake start-up” at a company he changed jobs at. There, he learned that he, too, could create a new sake brewery, and he set his sights on opening a sake brewery where he could make his living from the sake he loves. The reason for this, he says, “was because I was impressed by the beauty and depth of fermentation culture through my favorite sake.

In opening the business, he was once again impressed by the “world’s best tasting sake” after drinking it at an izakaya. He visited Abe Shuzo (Kashiwazaki City, Niigata Prefecture), the brewer of REGULUS sake, which is known for the Koshino-Oyama and Abe series of sake, and learned sake brewing techniques. After one year of training, he established his own sake brewery at his current location at the age of 27.

Sato was positive about starting from scratch as a local sake brewery, and his encounter with Tomoyuki Wada, the head of Odaka Workers Base, who had been working to create a business in Odaka Ward, Minamisoma City since 2014, also helped accelerate the launch of haccoba. Mr. Wada introduced us to this house when we were struggling to find a good property for a sake brewery,” said Mr. Wada.

He met many people who were sincerely involved in the regional development and reconstruction of the areas affected by the nuclear power plant disaster, and the fact that there were many people who supported him was also a deciding factor in his decision to choose this location. The support for starting a business from the local government also brought a sense of security. In addition, his wife, Mizuki, is from Iwaki City, Fukushima Prefecture, which made him feel more familiar with the area.

Today, in Minamisoma’s Odaka Ward, in addition to residents who have lived there for a long time, young entrepreneurs from all over the country have come to start their own businesses, and new business and community development efforts are underway.

Craft saké,” in which the maker’s individuality shines through, is also appealing in its range.

Under the Sake Tax Law, the craft saké produced by haccoba is classified as “other brewed sake” rather than “sake,” and thus cannot be called “sake. In addition, currently, sake production licenses are rarely issued to new brewers, so the younger generation of sake brewers is finding a way to make their dreams come true in the craft saké business. Mr. Sato is one of them.

However, the Sake Tax Law will be revised in 2020, and new sake production licenses will be issued only for brewing sake to be sold for export, not for domestic distribution in Japan. We expect that these trends will lead to changes in laws and regulations in the future,” he said.

Craft Sake, a New Genre of Sake Growing in Popularity

Sake (sake) is made from strained “moromi,” a fermented mixture of rice, rice malt, and water, and there are limits to what other ingredients can be used, such as brewer’s alcohol and sugar. The process of making sake is different from that of sake.

According to the Craft Sake Brewery Association, “craft saké” is a new genre of rice-based sake that is based on sake (seishu) production technology and incorporates processes that cannot legally be employed in conventional sake. The number of sake breweries producing craft saké has been increasing in recent years, and the quality of the sake has improved dramatically, steadily expanding its popularity and power.

The strength of craft saké is the freedom to take on new challenges. Our brewery focuses on direct sales, so we can be adventurous with sake that would normally be considered difficult to sell, and we can make it fruity, dry, or smoky depending on the secondary ingredients we add, such as herbs, hops, and fruit.

A Modern Take on Folk Sake Making

There was once a time in Japan when each household enjoyed “dobrok” (the original form of sake) made from a variety of ingredients. However, since sake brewing became licensed in the Meiji era (1868-1912), it has become difficult to freely make sake. One of the purposes of haccoba’s sake brewing was to express such a folkloric way of sake making in a modern way.

One of the books that Sato loves to read and cherishes as a reference for his recipes is “The Do Brokk Treasured Book of Countries. I was intrigued by the unique and free ways of making it, such as using calahanasaw, which grows in the mountains of Tohoku, and using fruits such as millet, Japanese millet, and mountain grapes, in addition to rice,” he says. The idea of starting a sake brewery in a private home was also an extension of the home brewing process, he says.

A Small Brewery Enjoying Evolution and Change

Located in Odaka-ku, Minamisoma, is a small, 40-square-meter glass-fronted brewery, an adjoining pub (open Friday, Saturday, and Sunday by reservation only), and a store with a wide variety of products. The brewery has three 300L thermal tanks, one for brewing and one for storage, from preparation to completion.

Due to the steady increase in orders for new products since its establishment, the company is building a brewery in the neighboring town of Namie in 2023 and making sake at two locations. The standard time from preparation to completion is about one month. As soon as the tanks are empty, they begin the next round of brewing, releasing new products and collaborative products as they go along.

This year, we are trying our hand at old sake for the first time,” says Sato, smiling happily, “by keeping a close eye on the fermentation process and letting the sake mature. Always remembering to evolve and change, he takes on the challenge of sake brewing.

Passing on the baton from the producers to create safe sake with organic rice

The rice used as a raw material is one of the specialties of the company. The rice used includes “Omachi” from Nemoto Organic Farm in Minamisoma City, “Amanotsubu” from Toyoda Farm, and “Sasashigure” from Tsuchiya Farm in Inawashiro Town, all of which are contract farmers.

Beautiful ears of rice were waving in the wind in the rice paddies of Nemoto Organic Farm in Odaka-ku, Minamisoma City. Koichi Nemoto, the owner of the farm, is currently working on organic farming with his son, Gomi.

Nemoto’s rice is so delicious that I feel it naturally makes sake taste good as well,” he said. I want to pass on the baton by expressing the precious rice that is grown organically and deliciously to the maximum extent possible in the form of sake without wasting it,” says Sato.

Koichi says calmly, “It’s been 70 years since I started growing rice, but every year I treat it as if I were a first grader. Mr. Sato moved to the area and started a sake brewery, which uses the rice we grow, and also employs young local people, which helps to revitalize the community. As a sake brewery rooted in the community, haccoba is already happily connected to a multicultural and multigenerational community.

Beautiful Sake Brewed with Originality Enriches and Adds Color to Everyday Life

Starting with “Hananuta Hops,” a standard sake since its establishment, haccoba has released a succession of unique flavors and collaborative products such as “kasu [sansho lemonade],” “haccoba coffee shop,” and “Shokolashu,” which have been attracting attention.

Most of the products are 500 ml in size. The unique and cute labels have many fans and are also appreciated as gifts. The alcohol setting is set at 10-13℃ because they want even wine lovers to enjoy their wines casually. We base our wines on taste and quantity so that they can be enjoyed with meals. He often collaborates with people from other industries, sharing ideas and creating recipe designs, ultimately aiming to create an enjoyable experience through alcohol.

A taste with depth combined with native plants and trees of Fukushima

haccoba has steadily grown into a sake brewery whose name is always mentioned when “craft saké” or “botanical sake” is mentioned. haccoba’s deep flavor, which combines native plants and trees of Fukushima, is attracting attention both in Japan and abroad.

The standard sake “Hananuta Hops” is a bottle that combines the refreshing citrus aroma and clear sweetness of rice by crossing “hanamoto,” a fantastic production method handed down in Tohoku, and “dry hops,” a beer technique that extracts a gorgeous aroma. In addition to aroma hops, the brewery is particular about the use of calahanaso, a type of vine grass also known as oriental hops. The hops are boiled from a dried state, and the boiled juice is added to the brewing water to make the malt. The hops are also soaked in the tank during the latter stages of fermentation, leaving a strong aroma in the finished product. The style is a unique flavor that has been perfected by combining craft beer production methods with an awareness of reproducing the “Hana-Hashiro” style.

In 2024, the company will introduce a new series of standard sake called “zairai (indigenous). Brewed with a variety of native ingredients, the sake is made with local herbs encountered with mountain owners in the mountains of Fukushima Prefecture. For example, kaya leaves, cedar bokkuri, aburachan branches, and mugwort flowers are fermented together with rice. The finished product has a gentle aroma, a good balance of coolness and astringency, and a pleasant lingering taste.

More than 6 to 10 varieties are always available at haccoba’s store and online store, and can also be purchased and enjoyed at stores in Tokyo.

From Fukushima to the world. Challenge to open a brewery in Belgium

The next goal of haccoba, which expresses craft saké through free brewing, is to expand into Belgium. We have been working on a plan to establish a brewery in Belgium since the very beginning. Belgium is a region where each region has its own recipe for beer, and they have built a culture similar to the Japanese dobrok, so I would like to take on the challenge of creating a sake that is a fusion of our drinks,” he says enthusiastically.

With a free spirit that is reminiscent of the folkloric dobrok of the past, haccoba is aiming for the world, and we can’t wait to see what kind of delicious sake they will produce.

The post From Fukushima to the world. Taisuke Sato of “haccoba,” a company that delivers surprise and excitement with its freely conceived “craft salmon” / Minamisoma City, Fukushima Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Take-no-i Shuzo, with a history of over 160 years, created a new brand, Seiko, in 2007. This sake is brewed with the flower yeast and rice that impressed the brewer during his apprenticeship, as well as Yatsugatake subterranean water drawn from a hand-dug well, from which the company’s name is derived. The toji is proud to pass on his unwavering sake brewing skills to future generations.

A long-established sake brewery that has been in business for over 150 years

There is a long-established sake brewery in Hokuto City, Yamanashi Prefecture, that has been brewing sake since the end of the Edo period (Keio era) more than 160 years ago. The name “Take-no-i Sake Brewery” is derived from the character “Take” of Buzaemon Shimizu, the founder of the brewery, and “I” of a 10-meter hand-dug well fed by subterranean water from the Yatsugatake Mountains. It was 18 years ago (2007) that a new brand called “Seiko” was born at the family-run brewery, which had been producing the “Take-no-i” brand for generations. It has a refreshing and easy-to-drink taste. It is recommended to drink it chilled. The brand’s senior managing director and chief brewer, Koichiro Shimizu, is the driving force behind the Seikou brand.

The New “Seikou” Brand

Today, Take-no-i Sake Brewery is making its own unique sake while responding to the needs of the market by rebranding and trying out the latest brewing methods. However, until 18 years ago, when Mr. Shimizu returned to Hokuto City after completing his training, he was making low-priced sake, unlike today. At that time, beer and wine were on the rise, and the demand for sake was gradually decreasing with the times. So we started brewing a new type of sake to differentiate ourselves from the competition. The name of the new brand, “Seikou,” was chosen to symbolize the image of clear, clean water and the desire for the sake industry to “sparkle” in the world. The name “Seikou” was chosen to reflect the image of clear, clean water and the desire for the sake industry to “sparkle” in the world.

Tsurubara Yeast and Omachi, both of which impressed him during his apprenticeship

Yeast is an essential part of sake brewing. Yeast is a small microorganism, invisible to the naked eye, that is responsible for the alcoholic fermentation process, converting the sugar in the rice used to make sake into alcohol and carbon dioxide. Yeast is usually isolated from the sake’s unrefined sake, but Take-no-i Sake Brewery uses “hana-kobo” (flower yeast), which is isolated from flowers that bloom in the natural world. Mr. Shimizu originally studied floral yeast while a student at Tokyo University of Agriculture. He says that his experience in brewing sake with various types of flower yeast at the Raifuku Sake Brewery in Ibaraki Prefecture, where he trained after graduation, was the starting point for his current style.

He says, “It was the Tsurubara yeast that I felt was most suited for the sake I wanted to make. Tsurubara yeast is a yeast that has been successfully isolated from the vine by the Sake Brewing Laboratory of the Tokyo University of Agriculture’s Department of Brewing and Fermentation. Mr. Shimizu was impressed by the combination of Tsurubara yeast and Omachi when he was in training. He says, “Sake made with Omachi and Tsurubara yeast is unique in Japan. I think it has a taste that can only be produced here. These words reveal his unwavering confidence. When Mr. Shimizu took over as toji (master brewer), he focused on “Junmai Ginjo Omachi,” which uses Omachi sake rice produced in Okayama Prefecture, as the core product of the brand. Currently, the Seikou brand is differentiating itself by brewing with Tsurubara yeast and offering a variety of products using different varieties of sake rice.

The Growing Appeal of Seikou

When the Seikou brand was released, it was very well received by buyers for its innovative taste. On the other hand, he realized that flower yeast is still not generally recognized. He says, “I think there are many people who don’t know what yeast is in the first place,” and he doesn’t put much emphasis on promoting the distinctive flower yeast as the main ingredient.

We place importance on having people experience the taste by drinking it. I think that if people feel that this is what flower yeast is after drinking it, then the goodness of the yeast will gradually spread.

An unexpected gift from Yatsugatake

The quality of the water is very important in creating a clean, refreshing taste. Mr. Shimizu says that he places great importance on water, and that all of his sake is brewed with water from the Yatsugatake Mountains. Hokuto City, where the brewery is located, is rich in Yatsugatake subterranean water, which is pumped from a 10-meter hand-dug well that gives the brewery its name. The water is classified as soft, medium soft, medium hard, or hard depending on the concentration of calcium and magnesium in the underground water. In Japan, where the land is narrow and the slopes are steep and the water flows out to the sea quickly, the calcium and magnesium in the ground are absorbed in a short time, so the water is often soft with a low concentration. However, the subterranean water here in Yatsugatake is influenced by the complex geological strata, so it is not soft water, but medium-hard water. Tsurubara yeast has a relatively weak fermentation power, but the hardness of the water helps it, like a “source of energy,”” says Shimizu. He recalls how he felt when he first started brewing sake in this area, saying, “I was very happy that the ingredients I wanted to use and the characteristics of the region happened to match, and I was able to create the flavor I was aiming for. The land of Yatsugatake responded in an unexpected way to the craftsman’s repeated research to create delicious sake.

Unchanging, unwavering sake brewing

Mr. Shimizu’s commitment is not to change the taste of the brand. He is committed to “never changing the taste of the brand,” which means “never blurring. After many years of sake brewing, the quality of the rice and environmental factors of the year can cause the taste of the sake to gradually deviate from the ideal. The difficult point is how to keep it within the framework of “Take-no-i” and “Seikou”. In order to maintain a consistent flavor, he says, the “strong points” of the ingredients, such as the aroma, are sometimes suppressed. Why does he insist on “not changing the flavor of the brand” to such an extent? The reason is the “customers” who look forward to drinking his sake.

He says, “There are many sake brands with the same name that have completely different tastes, and if you look around the world, there are many sake brands that have changed in taste. Of course, different sake breweries have different ideas, but I believe that the first taste is the one that leaves the biggest impression on the drinker. So I don’t want to betray that impression.

Preserving the Taste for Future Generations

In 2017, there was a new change in the Take-no-i brand, which has been well-loved for many years. In addition to the existing product lineup, new “Tokutei Meisho-shu” (special name sake) such as “Junmai Ginjo” and “Tokubetsu Honjozo,” which can only be named after sake rice that meets strict conditions such as the rice polishing ratio and ingredients used, have been added to the lineup. Despite these changes, however, the company continues to make locally-oriented sake, such as using Hitogokochi, a sake rice grown in Hokuto City, Yamanashi Prefecture. Shimizu’s steadfast sake brewing style is still alive and well, not only in the “Seikou” brand, but also in the “Take-no-i” brand, where the taste has remained unchanged.

As for the future outlook, Shimizu is determined to improve the current products to increase public recognition, but he has no plans to change the flavor of the brand. The refreshing and easy-to-drink taste of Qinghuang will surely continue to be accepted in the future. I believe it will be loved for a long time and remain as a sake. Mr. Shimizu’s words are imbued with a sense of responsibility to the customers who look forward to his sake and a solid confidence in the sake he is brewing. With the trust and experience he has built up, the unchanging taste of Seikou will be passed on to future generations.

The post Take-no-i Sake Brewery” brews sake with a consistent taste using flower yeast and Yatsugatake subterranean water / Hokuto City, Yamanashi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Matsuya Sake Brewing Company is located in Fujioka City in southwestern Gunma Prefecture, bordering on Saitama Prefecture. The sake “Ruka,” which uses water from the Kannagawa and Ayukawa Rivers that gushes from the Mikabo Sankei mountain range, which is ideal for sake brewing, is attracting attention as an original sake created by the enthusiasm of the sixth generation brewer, Hiroyuki Matsubara, who is also the toji, the president of the company.

The Sixth Generation Envisions a New Gunma Sake

Fujioka City in Gunma Prefecture has a mild climate with mountainous terrain in the west and the Kanto Plain in the east. Matsuya Sake Brewery, which has been producing sake here since 1951, was originally founded as a rice wholesaler in Toyama Prefecture during the Edo period and began brewing sake in the late Meiji era. The brewery later moved to Fujioka City in Gunma Prefecture, which is close to the large market of Tokyo and blessed with a natural environment, and has been making sake that is suited to the locality of Gunma. After the previous master brewer retired due to old age, Hiroyuki Matsubara, the sixth generation brewer and president of the company, became the master brewer himself and has been involved in production ever since. With a production of only 250 koku, the small brewery produces sake that is made by hand in the traditional way, with a modern approach that is in tune with the times, offering a new kind of Gunma sake.

Returning to his hometown to fulfill the role of the eldest son, the sixth generation

Born and raised in a sake brewery, Matsubara was not interested in sake making as a child, and after graduating from college, he began working for a street brand to pursue a career in fashion. He decided to return to his parents’ home and take over the family brewery.

He said, “At one time I ran away from home to do something different from the family business, but since I am the eldest son, I decided to take over the family business. I had a sense of fulfillment from having done what I loved in the outside world, so I honestly thought I would return to my parents’ house and do my best.

At the time, however, we were in the midst of the shochu boom. The brewery mainly produced sake for celebratory occasions such as elections and weddings, but Mr. Matsubara felt that this alone would eventually make it difficult to run the business. However, he felt that this would eventually become too difficult to manage. Since he was taking over the brewery, he wanted to make sake that would be sold at restaurants, and he began to think about creating his own original sake at the brewery.

I want to make Gunma sake that fits the times.

Mr. Matsubara joined Matsuya Sake Brewery and began learning sake brewing from scratch at the brewery. At the same time, in order to create his own original sake, he went to study at the “Red Brick Sake Brewery” in Oji, Tokyo (now the National Institute of Sake Brewing), which has contributed to the development of sake brewing in Japan, and learned from senior brewers at Gunma Prefecture’s technical exchange meetings.

At the time, the generation older than myself favored dry sake, and many of the breweries around us were producing it. However, as the number of senior brewers I met at the engineer exchange meetings and the number of brewers of the same younger generation as myself increased, the trend of sake preferred in the market started to change. The fruity, aromatic sake that I like is getting more attention.

In his search for sake that suited the times, he went to restaurants recommended by a toji he respected, read books, and actively sought advice. He was advised that “marketing is important, but at the end of the day, your own feelings are important,” and he decided to create a fruity, fresh sake that was becoming popular and had a flavor he wanted to drink.

Deciding on a Brand Name from a Child’s Name Candidate

Mr. Matsubara decided that if he was going to make his own original sake, he wanted it to be fragrant and fruity, close to the kind of sake he had always dreamed of making. He imagined the taste of sake like “Jyushiyo” and “Houbiden,” which he had been shocked by when he drank them, and through a process of trial and error, he came up with the ideal name for the sake. When he brought the sake to the distributor, he was advised by the Matsuya Brewery to think carefully about branding if it was to be a new brand.

At the time, I had just had a baby, and I was thinking of a name for my child, and I found a name that fit the image of the sake I wanted to make, “Nagare Shine. We named our new sake brand “Ryu-ki”.

In addition to the existing brands “Tosei” and “Hiraijo,” the new brand name “Nagareki” has been added to the existing brands, and the brewery has launched its own brand. The words on the “Ryuki” label were written thousands of times by Mr. Matsubara himself, he says.

Sake brewing that takes advantage of the quality of the water

When making Nagareki, Mr. Matsubara’s first image was of a sake that would be enjoyed for its aroma. However, the sake produced in Fujioka did not have as much of an aroma as he had expected. The sake made in Fujioka, however, does not have as much aroma as one might expect, and yet it has a slightly citrusy, acidic flavor, he says.

We dig a well in the groundwater of the Kannryu and Ayukawa Rivers and use it as brewing water,” he said. The water is very soft, with a German hardness of about 6. For rice, we use Yamada-Nishiki and other sake rice suitable for our brewery, such as Niigata’s Gohyakumangoku.

At first, he had a hard time producing the sake he envisioned. As he repeatedly experimented with different types of rice and yeast and their compatibility with water based on various data, he gradually began to see changes in the taste of his sake. It was not the fragrant, fruity sake that he wanted to make, but he began to see the characteristics of Fujioka, a sake with a subdued aroma and a slightly citrus-like acidity that the region produced. I am now thinking of making “Ryuki” in a way that makes the most of this character.

Sake made with the same routine

Matsuya Brewery is a small brewery with only five employees, including part-time workers. Because of the small number of employees, the brewery takes a longer production period, and they are conscious of following the same routine every year to keep the rhythm of the brewing process.

Although we have a small number of employees, we produce sake in small batches, sticking to traditional handmade methods in order to produce higher quality sake. In particular, the pressing process is carried out slowly and under pressure using an old-fashioned machine that has been handed down from generation to generation, resulting in a clean and gentle sake quality.

The traditional technique of koji making, which easily affects the flavor of sake, is employed. Steamed sake rice is exposed outdoors and exposed to wind to evaporate the moisture, while controlling the temperature to the desired level. In order to allow the fermentation of unrefined sake to proceed slowly at low temperatures, the rice is pounded for more than 50 hours to allow the mycelium to reach the center of the rice, producing a clean koji that matches the quality of the sake.

He began to think about pursuing refined sake by using traditional koji making that is not influenced by trends, and by changing the flavor of the sake by combining the two.

Creating sake that can be handled by restaurants

In branding Ryuki, Mr. Matsubara says that he had a strong desire for the sake to be sold in restaurants. He also tried a different approach to the sales of sake than what the brewery had been doing until now.

We decided to limit the distribution of “Ryuki” to only those dealers who are willing to sell it to us. We chose only those distributors who were willing to sell our sake, and we are still doing business with them today.

Limited distribution has the advantage of increasing the value of the brand and differentiating it. However, it also has the disadvantage of not being able to market the product unless the distributors approve of it.

When Ryuki was just starting out, there were few dealers who would accept his brand, and he was sometimes turned away, told to “go study more. There was even a distributor who finally accepted our brand after three years of trying,” says Matsubara.

Ryuki,” a brand created with his own ingenuity

Nagare Kiki” was created with the image of a fresh, fruity flavor that would flow and shine in the mouth, and it is now turning out to be exactly what the name implies.

There are still things I need to work on, but after 17 years of making “Ryu-Kiki,” I think I’ve gotten about 50% closer to what I’m aiming for,” he said. I think I am getting better and better, but in order to raise it another 50 percent, I think I need more experience, more ideas, and more effort than I am capable of at the moment.

Two years after taking over the Matsuya Brewery, he launched his own brand, Ryuki, which became popular mainly among restaurants, just as Mr. Matsubara had hoped, and is now gaining fans among the general public as well. The experience of creating an original brand from scratch, which Mr. Matsubara has been dealing with ever since he became toji, has had a positive impact on the other sake that Matsuya Brewery has been making for many years, and the future of this small brewery is beginning to look brighter.

The post We want to create an original brand. Matsuya Sake Brewery’s passion for “Ryuki” / Fujioka City, Gunma Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.