Sake brewing, a tradition passed down through the mountains of Shimane Prefecture, is now gaining new momentum. Drawing on the history preserved by the Tanabe and Takeshita families, master brewer Ryota Hamazaki is crafting sake that resonates with modern lifestyles while working closely with the local water and rice.

The Tanabe and Takeshita Families: A Legacy of Sake Brewing

Located in Kakeya, Unnan City, Shimane Prefecture, “Tanabe Takeshita Sake Brewery” is a sake brewery built upon the history of two families: the Tanabe family, who were long involved in tatara ironmaking in Okuizumo, and the Takeshita family, who carried on their sake-brewing tradition. Today, the Tanabe family has once again taken over the business, and sake is being brewed at this location.

Sake Brewing and the Tatara Ironmaking Process

In Okuizumo’s Yoshida Town in Shimane Prefecture, the traditional Japanese ironmaking process known as “tatara” was once thriving. The Tanabe family served as the head of this industry and played a central role in supporting it as a pillar of the local community. Ironmaking required a large workforce; it is said that at its peak, more than 20,000 people were involved in the industry.

Among the various businesses the family operated—including tatara ironmaking—was sake brewing.

A Storehouse Passed Down Through the Generations—and Now Returned

However, toward the end of the Edo period, the warehouse was destroyed by fire. In 1866, the sake brewing license was transferred to the Takeshita family in Kakeya, Unnan City, and sake production was continued there.

The Takeshita family is also the family of Noboru Takeshita, the 74th Prime Minister of Japan. Operating as “Takeshita Honten,” the family continued to preserve the tradition of sake brewing for over 150 years thereafter, but in 2003, they suspended brewing operations and switched to purchasing ready-made sake by the barrel.

The disused sake brewery was donated to Unnan City and has been open to the public as the “Kakeya Sake Brewery Museum” since 2005. While the physical structure remains, its role as a place where sake is produced has been relinquished.

Then, in 2022, the Takeshita family faced the challenge of a lack of successors. It was the Tabe family—to whom they had once entrusted their sake-brewing license—that stepped in to help with business succession.

The history of sake brewing, passed down between the two families, led them to make a fresh start as Tanabe Takeshita Sake Brewery in order to preserve that legacy.

Master Brewer Ryota Hamazaki and a New Form of Sake

The head brewer at Tanabe Takeshita Sake Brewery is Mr. Hamazaki, a native of Fukuoka Prefecture. He studied environmental microbiology in college. It was during that time that he heard, “Sake has the most difficult brewing process of any alcoholic beverage,” which sparked his interest in sake.

Mr. Hamazaki then embarked on a career in sake brewing, training at breweries in Okayama and Aichi to gain hands-on experience.

It was during this time that he heard about the search for a successor at Tanabe Takeshita Sake Brewery. “I told myself I’d go anywhere as long as I could brew my own sake,” he said. True to his word, he decided without hesitation to head to Shimane.

Kakeai, which he visited for the first time, was a quiet town surrounded by mountains. It was also a place where a culture of fermentation thrived in everyday life, with families still making their own miso by hand.

Brewing Sake from Scratch: Our Goal Was “The Summer Sea of San’in”

When Mr. Hamazaki took over the brewery, sake production had already ceased at this location. Although a master brewer had been selected, the facilities needed for brewing were not in place. It was truly a matter of starting from scratch.

Faced with a brewery that had been unused for a long time, the first task was to prepare the space so it would be suitable for brewing sake. He identified which pieces of the old equipment were still usable and retained them, while adding new equipment where necessary.

In 2022, the environment for sake brewing was finally in place, and in the early stages of the relaunch, they conducted repeated test brews. While exploring yeast strains and brewing conditions, they began to shape the profile of the sake they aimed to create in this region.

Through this process, Mr. Hamazaki envisioned “a sake with the clarity of the San’in Sea in summer.”

The result of this journey was “Rihachi.” Named after the head of the Takeshita family at the time the brewing license was granted, this sake embodies a deep respect for history.

Fruity and clear, yet not too light—it offers a flavor that invites you to keep drinking. Rather than seeking flashiness, the goal is to create a sake that is naturally chosen as part of everyday life.

The Sensations of the Sake-Brewery Floor

Sake brewing begins with handling rice and water: washing the rice, steaming it, making koji, mashing, and fermentation. Each of these steps builds upon the others, ultimately shaping the flavor of the sake.

While controlling temperature and timing is, of course, important, Mr. Hamazaki says he “deliberately avoids relying on data.” He values brewing sake based on his accumulated experience, while using his five senses to detect subtle differences—such as aroma, the condition of the foam, and changes in sound.

Sometimes he even visits the brewery in the middle of the night. Because sake is constantly changing, he must stay attuned to its evolution at all times.

Mr. Hamazaki says, “The real sake brewing begins after the sake is pressed.” Sake brewing continues not only through the production process but also through subsequent management and distribution. For this reason, Tanabe Takeshita Sake Brewery sells its products directly to consumers, bypassing wholesalers. This decision prioritizes quality control and the speed with which the sake reaches consumers.

Sake Brewing That Bridges the Next Generation

Meanwhile, Tanabe Takeshita Sake Brewery is currently investing approximately 1.2 billion yen to construct a new brewery within the city. The company aims to relocate there in May 2027. The new facility will feature year-round brewing with fully controlled temperature and humidity, enabling the brewery to supply sake of consistently high quality throughout the year. The plan is to increase production to 161,100 liters—more than seven times the current output—by the fiscal year ending September 2030.

Of course, even as the scale changes, their approach to sake brewing remains unchanged. Looking ahead, they are also considering a brewing process that fully incorporates local water and rice, creating a self-contained production cycle within this region.

There is no guarantee that the sake we enjoy today will be in demand in the same form 50 years from now. Nevertheless, continuing to brew sake in this very place is what connects us to the next generation.

From the Tanabe family to the Takeshita family, and back to the Tabe family again. The legacy of sake brewing, passed down through the generations, continues to this day.

The post Carrying on the legacy and moving forward once again. Ryota Hamazaki of Tanabe Takeshita Sake Brewery, supported by two families / Unnan City, Shimane Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Kami City in Kochi Prefecture has long been a hub of forestry and agriculture. The Monobe River, a Class 1 river that originates at Mount Shiraga and flows into Tosa Bay, runs through this area. Pure water carried down from the upstream mountains, the excellent drainage typical of alluvial fans, and an inland climate characterized by significant temperature fluctuations between day and night. Captivated by this blessed environment, newcomers have established a brewery and are working alongside the local community to create one-of-a-kind craft beer.

From Osaka to Kochi: The Beginning of a Move Inspired by the “Lifestyle”

Shinya Setoguchi first visited Kochi because his brother-in-law was attending Kochi University.

Unspoiled nature, food that delights the palate, and warm-hearted people. Captivated by all of it, he recalls thinking, “First of all, I want to live in this area.”

At the time, Setoguchi was an engineer who had studied science and engineering from technical high school through graduate school. Even while working in the electronics industry, he was always searching, deep down, for “a job to which he could devote his life.” In his late 20s, amid a period of uncertainty and soul-searching, he discovered craft beer.

He traveled to breweries across the country, witnessed the dedication of the brewers, and learned that beer had become an integral part of local culture. He then underwent training in Portland, Oregon, and upon returning to Japan, spent a year apprenticing at Iwami Beer Co., Ltd. in Shimane Prefecture. That was the moment when “what he wanted to keep making for the rest of his life” began to take concrete shape.

Craft beer is a craft that involves engaging with ingredients, the land, and people. Mr. Setoguchi was captivated by its depth and eventually came to strongly desire, “I want to brew my own beer in a place of my own choosing.”

The Birth of a Small Brewery Supported by the Community

Eight years after moving to Kochi, Mr. Setoguchi opened a brewery in Kami City.

His first workshop was an old, turnkey property offered to him by a local resident who said, “I can rent this to you cheaply.” He polished the floors, painted the walls, built the equipment himself, and handled the entire brewing process all by himself. It was truly a start from scratch, but with nothing but his determination to “brew here in this region,” Mr. Setoguchi continued working quietly.

Eventually, after being featured in newspapers and on television, orders skyrocketed. Even brewing twice a day wasn’t enough to keep up, and his exhaustion reached its peak.

It was then that a local resident asked, “You’re in a bind, aren’t you?” and volunteered to help him apply labels for a full six months.

It was the moment when the entire community embraced him, a newcomer to the area. Mr. Setoguchi says he felt strongly that “I’m not brewing beer alone. I’m brewing it together with the community.”

Beer that can only be brewed in Kochi. A philosophy that puts the ingredients front and center.

At the heart of Mr. Setoguchi’s beer-making is always the “ingredients.” His first projects featured Kochi-grown yuzu, rice from terraced fields, sansho pepper, and Tosa bunkwan.

“I make the ingredients the stars, not just a subtle accent,” he says. For ingredients that impart astringency, he designs the beer to envelop them; for those where he wants to bring out the aroma, he refines the profile through fermentation temperature and hops. He creates harmony in the beer while respecting the individuality of each ingredient. Although the malt currently comes from Germany, he repeatedly tests saccharification efficiency and flavor compatibility, blending them over and over to find the optimal solution.

This approach—working backward from the ingredients to define “the meaning of brewing in Kochi”—gives the beer an unshakable core.

Mr. Setoguchi explains, “The taste of the beer is shaped by the very background of the ingredients.”

The producers’ passion, the local climate, and the changing seasons—all of these are part of the beer. That is precisely why placing the ingredients at the center is also an act of encapsulating the very essence of Kochi itself within the beer.

A Return to Our Roots Amid the COVID-19 Pandemic: The Birth of “Regional Beers”

The COVID-19 pandemic struck the brewery, which had been growing steadily. Sales plummeted by half, forcing the company to furlough its employees. However, this “forced hiatus” led Mr. Setoguchi to return to his roots.

A strong passion—“to brew beer for the community”—was rekindled in his heart.

This led to the creation of region-exclusive beers such as “Shimanto Bushukan Ale” and “Hidaka Village Fruit Tomato Ale.” Following a newspaper feature, requests poured in from roadside stations across the prefecture, and collaborative regional beers began to emerge one after another.

Beer made with local ingredients, crafted with local people, and enjoyed locally.

It was more than just a product; it served as a medium for telling the stories of the land.

“Wa-Jo Kölsch”: Where Japanese and Western Fermentation Cultures Meet

Mr. Setoguchi’s workshop features a “koshiki,” which is a rare sight in a brewery.

Here, rice, sweet potatoes, chestnuts, and heirloom corn are steamed over an open flame and then converted into glucose over the course of 48 hours in an amazake saccharification tank.

Furthermore, we developed “Wajo,” a unique fermentation technique that combines sake yeast with beer yeast.

The fruity aroma and crisp, clean finish produced by this process were reminiscent of “Kölsch,” a beer style traditionally brewed in the Cologne region of western Germany, so we named it Wajo Kölsch.

The aroma, a harmonious blend of the delicacy of sake yeast and the robustness of beer yeast, is the magic of fermentation—something that can never be replicated through cooking.

He continues to take bold risks by incorporating local ingredients, such as using “kaya nuts” in place of hops.

This beer, where Japanese and Western fermentation cultures intersect, embodies Mr. Setoguchi’s philosophy.

“Using local ingredients, local water, and creating it with local people.” This approach is giving birth to a new culture of fermentation.

The “smooth finish” created by Ryugakudo’s hard water

The area has such limestone-rich strata that Ryugado Cave—one of Japan’s three great limestone caves—is located on the mountain where the brewery stands. The brewery’s well water originates from an underground water source within this mountain; having flowed underground for over 100 million years, it is a moderately hard water rich in minerals and magnesium. While many breweries in Japan brew with soft water, here they can brew using water whose quality is closer to that of European ale culture.

Mr. Setoguchi says, “The water determines the direction of the flavor.”

Moderately hard water provides not only sweetness and umami but also forms the backbone of bitterness and astringency. This water is what supports the “clean finish”—a smooth, unbroken line that flows seamlessly from the aroma to the aftertaste.

This hard water, which shares its origins with Ryugado Cave, gives Kochi Campagne Brewery’s beers a unique crispness and depth, creating a character found nowhere else.

“Beer for Sharing.” Promoting the Monobe River Basin Brand!

Mr. Setoguchi’s dream is to develop the entire Monobe River basin into a single brand. He hopes to create a place where visitors can fully experience the charm of this region through dining, lodging, and hands-on activities.

An essential part of that experience is a beverage that brings people together around the same table to share a toast and laughter. To appeal to both beer lovers and those who aren’t fond of beer, he has made the development of low-alcohol and non-alcoholic beers a priority for the future.

Preparations are also underway to welcome a video production team to share the stories behind the ingredients and the producers’ passion.

Co-creating and conveying inspiration. With this philosophy in mind, Mr. Setoguchi continues to brew beer today that could only be born in this region.

The post “Kochi Campagne Brewery”: A One-of-a-Kind Craft Beer Crafted from Kochi’s Local Ingredients and People / Kami City, Kochi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The Kumano Kodo is a pilgrimage route to the Kumano Sanzan that many people have walked. Among these routes, the “Kii-ji,” which runs south through Wakayama Prefecture, passes through the Fujishiro district in Kainan City. Nearby stands Fujishiro Shrine, the historic site of Fujishiro Oji—one of the “Kumano Kujūku Oji” (99 Kumano Princes) where travelers paid their respects along the way and which was considered particularly prestigious. Within the shrine grounds stands the Suzuki Residence, believed to be the ancestral home of all people named “Suzuki” across Japan. It is said that the Suzuki clan, who migrated from Kumano, used this area as a base to spread the Kumano faith throughout the country, and Fujishiro has long been a place where people and culture have intermingled. Settled in this very Fujishiro is “Nakano BC,” a sake brewery that grew to become one of the top producers in Wakayama Prefecture in just three generations.

A History of Challenges That Began with a Dream of Opening a Sake Brewery

Nakano BC traces its origins back to 1932. The grandfather of Koji Nakano, the company’s president and CEO, had a dream of brewing sake, but at the time, starting a sake brewery required not only obtaining a brewing license but also a substantial amount of capital. So, he first began producing soy sauce under the name “Nakano Soy Sauce Shop,” laying the foundation for the business while waiting for the right moment to venture into sake brewing.

“I’ve heard that my grandfather, while harboring a deep longing to brew sake, first solidified his footing through the soy sauce business,” says Mr. Nakano, quietly reflecting on his grandfather’s dream—one that was not easily realized—and the many years spent working toward it.

Sake Brewing That Keeps Pace with the Times

In 1949, 17 years after the company’s founding, the groundwork laid through the soy sauce business had been established, allowing the company to take the long-awaited step into the sake brewing industry. The first product they produced was shochu. Combining the name of Mount Fuji—a symbol of Japan—with that of Fujishiro in Kainan City, where the brewery was located, they named it “Fujishiro.” While building the foundation of the business through soy sauce production, the founder’s long-cherished dream had finally come to fruition.

Nine years later, in 1958, the company changed its name to “Nakano Shuzo” upon entering the sake brewing business. This marked the birth of the “Chokyū” brand, which remains popular to this day. As the 62nd sake brewery established in the prefecture—a relative latecomer to the industry—the brewery reportedly struggled with sales in the early days. Nevertheless, with the goal of creating sake that would be enjoyed at the daily dinner table, the brewery has steadily refined its craftsmanship while honing the quality of its products.

The sake-brewing traditions passed down through the generations have also evolved with the times. Today’s sake aims to offer a robust umami flavor combined with a lightness that melts smoothly on the palate. The brewery continues to refine its sake to complement contemporary tastes—creating a beverage that enhances the flavors of food without feeling heavy, even as you drink more.

Eventually, the company expanded its operations into plum wine production and began developing health foods that leverage its expertise in fermentation and extraction. The knowledge accumulated as a sake brewery was not confined to sake alone but was applied to new fields as well.

This philosophy was reflected in the company’s name change in 2002 from “Nakano Shuzo” to “Nakano BC.” “BC” derives from “Biochemical Creation,” signifying “the creation of biochemistry.” By advancing research and development in both the alcoholic beverages and health food sectors, the company draws out the potential of Wakayama’s local ingredients and transforms them into new value. This effort embodies the spirit of inquiry that has been passed down since the company’s founding.

Dealing with Over 1,000 Metric Tons of Plums a Year

Nakano BC, which expanded from soy sauce brewing to sake brewing, began producing plum wine made from Kishu plums in 1979. Today, plum-related products—such as plum wine, plum extract, and plum juice—have become a major pillar supporting the company’s revenue. The company reportedly purchases more than 1,000 metric tons of plums annually and processes them according to their intended use, variety, and harvest season. 

Through continuous efforts to refine quality, the company’s plum wine won a gold award at the “Monde Selection,” a world-renowned quality competition, in 1990. 

The aroma and flavor of plums vary depending on the harvest season 

Upon stepping into the plum wine cellar, you’re greeted by more than 40 massive tanks. Inside, the aroma and tartness of the plums slowly infuse into the liquor, maturing over time into a single, harmonious flavor.

Even among plums of the same variety, the aroma, tartness, and condition of the fruit vary depending on when they’re harvested.

Plums harvested early, while still slightly green, produce a refreshing, youthful aroma. On the other hand, plums that have been bathed in the sun and turned reddish possess a more vibrant and rich aroma. Mr. Nakano explains, “It’s important to envision the flavor of the plum wine you want to create and select fruit harvested at the right time to match that vision.”

Furthermore, to achieve not only the ideal flavor but also the desired color, he carefully selects different plum varieties. He doesn’t rely solely on the “Nanko-ume,” a particularly well-known variety from Wakayama Prefecture—which boasts the highest plum production in Japan. He explores the unique characteristics of each variety, such as “Tsuyuakane”—a hybrid of plum and apricot with red flesh—and “Purple Queen,” a small plum with a vivid reddish-purple skin. He is also working on the development of “Assemblage Umeshu,” which combines base spirits of different varieties and ages, much like blending wine.

Time and Skill: Bringing Out the Unique Character of Plums 

The base umeshu is made by placing plums, sugar, and white liquor into a tank.

About six months after the initial brewing, the plums are removed, and the liquid is left to age further. This allows the astringency inherent in the plums to mellow, resulting in an umeshu where the aroma, acidity, and sweetness are in perfect harmony. It is said that some unblended umeshu, aged for over 10 years, is also stored here.

Umeshu is often perceived as a sweet liquor. However, if it were simply made sweet, one would quickly grow tired of it. How does one design the acidity that supports the sweetness and the elements that provide a crisp finish? The brewer’s experience and skill are reflected in achieving that balance.

Umeshu: From Home-Style Flavors to the World

In Wakayama—a major plum-producing region—the custom of pickling harvested plums at home is deeply rooted, and umeshu has long been cherished as something “made at home.” As a result, simply blending plums, sugar, and white liquor made it difficult to distinguish these products from homemade versions, and establishing them as commercial products was reportedly no easy task.

Consequently, Nakano BC sought to create flavors that would be difficult to replicate at home by combining ingredients such as red shiso, green tea, and fruit. Around the year 2000, against the backdrop of a growing health consciousness, umeshu began to attract attention, particularly among women, and the ways to enjoy it expanded significantly—including varieties based on sake or whiskey, as well as those with added fruit juice.

Currently, Nakano BC produces approximately 30 varieties of umeshu. The company offers a diverse range of flavors, from authentic umeshu that capitalizes on differences in plum varieties and aging periods to more approachable products blended with lemon or green tea.

This umeshu has now become a cornerstone of the company’s overseas business. It is exported to approximately 30 countries, including China, Taiwan, Hong Kong, and South Korea, as well as Thailand, Singapore, the United States, France, Italy, and Germany. It is embraced not only in Asia, where plums are familiar, but also in Europe and the United States, where a culture of liqueurs is well-established.

Umeshu, which has been cherished in households across Japan, has developed its own unique character as a commercial product through the ingenuity of its makers. Known overseas simply as “UMESHU,” it has become a beloved beverage. This drink, deeply rooted in the daily life of Wakayama, is crossing the seas and reaching new audiences.

Craftsmanship and Tourism, Linked by a Japanese Garden and a Sake Brewery 

A vast Japanese garden occupies about half of the approximately 10,000 tsubo site. The pond within the garden was originally constructed to provide cooling water for the distillation of shochu. It was later landscaped to serve as a welcoming space for visitors to the brewery, and today it offers a lush, green landscape where colorful koi and swans swim.

The pond covers an area of approximately 3,000 tsubo. It is said that the founder himself tended to the garden, shaping it over many years. The pond, which once provided the water essential for sake brewing, has now become a place that conveys both the brewery’s history and the rich natural beauty of Wakayama.

Nakano BC has long been committed to tourism initiatives, such as brewery tours. Opening up the production facilities and sharing the history and techniques of sake brewing not only provides enjoyment for visitors but also helps raise the awareness and pride of the staff.

Turning the Sake Brewery into an Open Space Where the Community and People Gather

In April 2026, Nakano BC relocated its company-owned store, “Chokyuan,” across from its headquarters and reopened it after renovations. The previous store was located within the sake brewery grounds, and it was reportedly a bit difficult for first-time visitors to find their way there.

The new “Chokyuan” features a selection of products unique to a company-operated store, including sake, plum wine, and health foods. In addition to a tasting corner, the shop now offers gelato made by Kurosawa Farm, also located in Kainan City. Alongside the “Milk” flavor—which highlights the farm’s fresh milk—the menu features flavors incorporating Wakayama ingredients such as plum, Marihime, Sanbokan, and hojicha, ensuring that even non-drinkers and families with children can enjoy the experience.

It has evolved from a shop solely for purchasing sake into a place where locals and tourists alike can casually drop by to experience Nakano BC’s craftsmanship and the flavors of Wakayama. A new gateway is emerging that brings the sake brewery closer to the people.

Prepare it yourself and enjoy watching the plum change over time

At the umeshu-making experience facility adjacent to “Chokuan,” visitors can also make their very own bottle of umeshu.

First, sterilize the bottle, carefully wipe each plum one by one, and remove the stems with a bamboo skewer. Layer the prepared plums and rock sugar in the bottle, then pour in white liquor to finish the process.

While each step is simple, invisible changes begin inside the bottle immediately after the mixture is prepared. It is said that the sugar not only adds sweetness but also draws out the plum’s hidden aroma and acidity through osmosis.

The character of the finished plum wine varies depending on the amount and type of sugar used. Rock sugar yields a crisp sweetness, beet sugar a mellow flavor, and honey adds a rich, full-bodied depth. The time spent preparing the mixture while imagining how it will taste six months later is another joy of making plum wine.

While picturing the taste 

Take the prepared umeshu home, and for the first three months or so, turn the bottle upside down from time to time to allow the sugar and plums to blend slowly. After letting it rest for another three months or so, it will finally be ready to drink—the moment you’ve been eagerly awaiting.

Inside the bottle, the rock sugar gradually dissolves, and the once-clear liquid slowly transforms into an amber hue. Watching this transformation unfold is one of the joys you can only experience because you made it yourself.

Whether it’s a single bottle aged at a sake brewery or a jar brewed at home, time flows the same for both. It slowly draws out the plum’s aroma and tartness, nurturing them into a single, harmonious flavor. In this process, the wisdom of umeshu brewing—passed down through the ages—continues to live on.

Transforming Sake Brewing Techniques and Research into New Value 

The skills honed through sake brewing are not limited to the production of sake alone. At Nakano BC, the company is applying its knowledge of fermentation, extraction, and cultivation to expand its business into health foods and products that highlight aromatic qualities.

At first glance, these may seem like entirely different fields. However, at their core lies a shared approach: carefully examining raw materials and conducting extensive research to unlock the latent potential within them.

The company’s motto is “Always create through collective wisdom.” By pooling the wisdom and experience of each employee, the company generates new products, technologies, and value. Embodying this motto, the techniques cultivated in the sake brewery are leading to new ways of manufacturing that make the most of Wakayama’s local ingredients.

The Bounty of Wakayama, Captured in Sake and Fragrance 

It’s not just plums. Wakayama boasts a diverse array of ingredients that reflect the region’s unique climate and terroir, including mandarin oranges, sansho pepper, jabara, cedar, and cypress.

At Nakano BC, we have been incorporating the unique aromas and flavors of these ingredients into our spirits. One such example is the craft gin from Fuji Shiro Distillery. “Maki—KOZUE—” features Japanese cypress (Koyamaki) as its main ingredient, along with Satsuma mandarin and lemon peels, and sansho pepper seeds. “Kodachi” combines Kishu cedar, Kishu cypress, citrus peels, and sansho pepper seeds. Both Satsuma mandarins and Japanese pepper are specialty products for which Wakayama Prefecture boasts the highest production volume in the nation. Kishu cedar and Kishu cypress are also ingredients that reflect the natural environment of Wakayama, blessed with abundant forests. By layering the refreshing notes of citrus and the crisp aftertaste of Japanese pepper over a forest-like aroma, these gins capture the scenery of Wakayama in a single glass.

Beyond sake, the company leverages its technology for extracting aromatic compounds from ingredients to develop aromatic oils using sansho and other ingredients. Sake focuses on flavor and aroma, while aromatic oils fill a space with scent. Although their uses differ, they share a common approach: carefully drawing out the unique character of each plant. This meticulous attention to even the rising aroma is a principle applied equally to sake brewing and health foods.

They do not use ingredients simply because they are “from Wakayama.” Instead, they analyze bitterness, astringency, acidity, and even the intensity of the aroma to determine how best to combine these elements to bring out the ingredients’ appeal. This reflects Nakano BC’s unique perspective: researching the region’s bounty and transforming it into new value.

Sake That Complements Your Meals and Reflects the Spirit of Wakayama

The flagship sake brands of Nakano BC are “Chokyū,” “Chōkyū,” and “Kinokuniya Bunzaemon.”

“Chokyū” is a brand name that embodies the wish for “a sake that will be loved for a long, long time.” It has long been cherished as a sake that accompanies daily meals. “Chōkyū,” which carries on this legacy, is a series of “Tokutei Meishō” sakes born from the desire to create even higher-quality sake using techniques that surpass those of the previous generation. Although the pronunciation is the same, the character “長” (chō) has been replaced with “超” (chō), symbolizing a renewed commitment to sake brewing.

“Kinokuniya Bunzaemon” is a brand named after a prominent merchant with ties to Wakayama. Drawing parallels with the story of a figure said to have transported mandarin oranges to Edo, it expresses the essence of Wakayama through sake.

While the lineup once centered on sake with a sweet and full-bodied character, the quality of the sake has evolved over time. The brewery pursues a lightness that melts away on the palate while retaining the umami and richness of the rice. The goal has been to create a sake that complements the flavors of food and naturally leads to the next sip.

Going Beyond the Boundaries of a Sake Brewery: Carrying Wakayama’s Ingredients into the Future

In Japan, the markets for sake and plum wine are struggling to grow, and poor plum harvests due to abnormal weather conditions continue. Nakano BC faces no small number of challenges: securing a stable supply of raw materials, maintaining quality, and creating products that will be chosen by the next generation.

Nevertheless, the company never stops taking on new challenges. It explores new flavors in plum wine through aging and blending, and delivers these products from Wakayama to the world. Furthermore, the company is applying the knowledge and techniques cultivated through sake brewing to the health sector and new ingredients, adding unprecedented value to the region’s natural bounty.

Taking ingredients received from the land, refining them with the wisdom and skills of the craftspeople, and passing them on to the next generation—this is the philosophy of Nakano BC, which began with soy sauce production and has expanded its horizons into sake, health foods, and fragrances. At the core of this approach lies a commitment to closely examining local ingredients and drawing out their untapped potential.

By understanding the characteristics of the ingredients, analyzing the production process, and conducting repeated trials, we craft the desired flavors and aromas. Although the fields we engage in are diverse, we never approach any of them halfheartedly. What unites them all is a curiosity to “learn more” and the technical skill to bring our visions to life.

What flavors and aromas still lie dormant within Wakayama’s ingredients? Seeking out those answers and bringing them to life is the very essence of Nakano BC’s craftsmanship.

The post Transforming Wakayama’s Plums into Sake and Health Benefits: “Nakano BC”—Over 90 Years of Exploration / Kainan City, Wakayama Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

There is a rice shochu with a fresh, crisp aroma, reminiscent of wildflowers drenched in morning dew. When you take a sip, a gentle sweetness spreads across your palate, then vanishes as quickly as mist. Its creator, Kazunobu Torikai, spent about 10 years developing a flavor that sets this shochu apart from all others. The name of this shochu is “Ginka Torikai.”

At age 24, he returned to his hometown to take over a 400-year-old sake brewery

The Hitoyoshi-Kuma region, located at the southern tip of Kumamoto Prefecture. Encircled by the Kyushu Seiryo Mountain Range, this crescent-shaped basin experiences sweltering summers and winters when the entire region is shrouded in thick fog. High-quality water springs from the beautiful yet rugged mountains, forming the Kuma River—one of Japan’s three major rapids—which flows down through the center of the basin, bringing fertile soil and abundant water resources to its watershed. The climate, characterized by the large temperature fluctuations typical of basins, combined with the fertile land, has made this area one of Kumamoto’s leading rice-producing regions, and “Kuma Shochu”—a shochu made from this rice—boasts a history of approximately 500 years.

In 1949, Kazunobu Torikai was born in Hitoyoshi City to the Torikai Shuzo distillery, a 400-year-old producer of Kuma Shochu. The Torikai family is said to have moved from Kyoto during the Heian period, and records from the Edo period show that they produced brewed sake, shochu, vinegar, miso, and soy sauce.

Mr. Torikai was the youngest of seven siblings. After graduating from a local high school, he moved to Tokyo to pursue a career as a painter. His second-eldest brother had taken over the brewery, so Mr. Torikai had never even considered getting involved in the family business. However, in 1973, at the age of 24, he received a call from his eldest brother informing him that their father had fallen ill. At that time, his second-eldest brother—who had taken over the family business—had also stepped down due to the brewery’s financial struggles. With each brother pursuing a different path, the question arose as to who would take the second-eldest brother’s place and safeguard the brewery; ultimately, the choice fell on Mr. Torikai. Thus, Mr. Torikai unexpectedly found himself taking over the family business.

Aiming to Develop a New Shochu Based on Its Ginjo Aroma

In my grandfather’s day, the family business had been resting on its laurels as the fifth-largest among the 37 Kuma shochu distilleries at the time. However, it was gradually pushed to the brink by the momentum of neighboring distilleries that were constantly striving to improve their taste, quality, and sales channels. By the time Mr. Torikai took over, it had fallen to the very bottom of the 34 remaining distilleries. His daily routine began—working nonstop from early morning until late at night just to keep the distillery afloat. He did everything from polishing the rice to making koji, brewing, bottling, and collecting empty bottles.

But in business, hard work doesn’t always translate to increased sales. Price competition within the small basin grew fiercer year by year, so Mr. Torikai took the bold step of selling directly to consumers in a bid to survive. Furthermore, the second shochu boom of the early 1980s intensified competition with major manufacturers. Although “Kiyotama,” the rice shochu his family had brewed for generations, had once won first place at a tasting competition, it lacked a distinctive character and was getting lost among the products of other breweries. Consequently, Mr. Torikai resolved to develop a new shochu.

His starting point was “ginjo-ka”—the components that produce the fruity and floral aromas generated during the fermentation of sake yeast. In the sake industry, this is known as ginjo-ka.

It was an era when distillers were asking, “Aroma is flavor—can we capture the aroma produced by yeast in a distilled spirit?” Since then, he pored over ancient documents and academic papers, visited master brewers and researchers known as “master craftsmen,” and repeated his research and experiments. Even when they thought an experiment had succeeded, upon closer inspection, the aroma would often differ from their ideal or prove impossible to reproduce. It was not until 1994 that they finally perfected the shochu they sought—nearly 10 years after they first resolved to develop it.

In a revitalized natural environment, we are on a quest to create a new shochu

He named the shochu—a masterpiece he was thoroughly pleased with—”Ginka Torikai,” after his own surname. The ginjo aroma stems from ginjo koji—made from rice polished to 58%—and yeast cultivated in-house. As a shochu with a distinctive and unforgettable flavor unlike any other, “Ginka Torikai” was immediately flooded with orders upon its release and won a Special Gold Award at the 1996 Monde Selection International Food Competition, alongside Johnnie Walker.

In response to this overwhelming reception, Torikai Shuzo decided to focus exclusively on the “Ginka Torikai” brand for sales. The company believed this approach would strengthen its branding power and dispel the negative perceptions associated with its older brands, which had been losing popularity. However, some 30 years after the creation of “Ginka Torikai,” Mr. Torikai continues to pursue the creation of new shochu. The turning point came with the completion of the “Kusatsu Distillery” and the “Yokitogi Koji Warehouse.”

Upon learning of plans to build an industrial waste treatment facility in the Kusatsu River basin—one of the few remaining clear streams in the Hitoyoshi Basin—Mr. Torikai purchased 150 hectares of forested land in 2000 to stop the project.

Over the course of five years, they worked to restore the natural environment, which had been ravaged by excessive deforestation and mudslides. As part of the company’s operations, they built stone retaining walls, removed fallen trees and boulders, and planted broadleaf trees to restore the clear stream. In 2005, the Kusatsu Distillery was completed. Subsequently, in 2012, the Onokuri Koji Warehouse was completed on a 15-hectare site created by leveling abandoned farmland and forested land.

Mr. Torikai explains the reason he undertook these initiatives by saying, “Everything—including caring for the environment—is part of sake brewing.” He believes that revitalizing the forests and rivers to produce pure water is an essential prerequisite for improving the quality of the shochu. Currently, at these two facilities, he continues to refine and produce “Ginka Torikai” while also experimenting with new shochu recipes. He is also considering whether “Seikyu”—once the distillery’s flagship product—can be reintroduced in a form suited to the present era.

The “Sake You Can’t Find Anywhere” I Even Dream About

The Kusatsu River, which Mr. Torikai showed me, was so pristine that it was hard to believe it had once been so degraded. The water used to clean the tanks at the distillery is transported off-site for treatment. The rice is washed at the koji warehouse before being transported to the distillery. The reason they repeat these tasks—which might seem like nothing but extra work—is their determination not to discharge any wastewater into the Kusatsu River, even if it has been purified. I truly felt that the clear stream before my eyes is being protected by this series of deliberate choices.

Mr. Torikai has never relied solely on intuition when deciding how to brew sake or interact with nature; instead, he has analyzed every aspect, thought things through from multiple angles, and moved forward without compromising his convictions.

“A sake that possesses all the finest qualities of sake, yet is unlike any other. Sometimes I wake up from a dream in which I’ve created just such a sake.”

Perhaps what Mr. Torikai is pursuing is not merely a “new sake.” It is likely a single drop that transcends time and space, imbued with the climate and nature of Hitoyoshi-Kuma, as well as the daily lives and very concepts of its people. “I don’t think completion is that far off,” he said. Mr. Torikai’s cheerful voice melted into the crisp mountain air.

The post Refining aromas, protecting the mountains, and dreaming of sake. Kazunobu Torikai of “Torikai Shuzo” / Hitoyoshi City, Kumamoto Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Kikuzakari Brewery, located in Kitakami City, Iwate Prefecture, produces many distinctive sake varieties, including its flagship brand, “Taxi Driver.” Takuya Fujimura, the brewery’s owner, took over as the fifth-generation head at the age of 30. While overcoming the hardships of the Great East Japan Earthquake, he steered the brewery toward becoming Iwate Prefecture’s first “all-junmai sake brewery,” using only rice grown in Iwate Prefecture. Each of these choices has shaped the unique character of Kikuzakari Brewery today.

Born as the fifth-generation head of a sake brewery, he became president at the age of 30.

Kitakami City is located in central Iwate Prefecture, where the Kitakami and Waga Rivers converge in a fertile basin dotted with rolling countryside. At the northern tip of the city stands Kikuzakari Sake Brewery Co., Ltd., which was founded in 1894 as Fujimura Sake Brewery. Following the consolidation and restructuring of sake breweries under wartime regulations, the company adopted its current name in 1951. Since then, it has continued to brew sake deeply rooted in the local community under brands such as “Kikuzakari” and “Onikenbai.”

“The heyday was during my grandfather’s time—he was the third-generation owner—and in the 1970s, we were producing approximately 4,000 koku (equivalent to 400,000 one-shō bottles) of sake annually. Since local consumption accounted for over 90 percent of sales, it seems we mainly produced everyday standard sake. My grandfather also served as chairman of the local tourism association, so he created various sake brands inspired by the region, such as ‘Onikenbai’ and ‘Shishi Odori’—traditional performing arts of the area—as well as the local song ‘Kitakami Yakyoku.’ There was also a soy sauce brewery on the same grounds, and with so many people working there, it was a bustling place.”

These are the reflections of Takuya Fujimura, the fifth-generation head of Kikuzakari Sake Brewery. He explains that ever since he was old enough to understand, he had always been aware that he would one day take over this brewery, which has been preserved by the Fujimura family for generations since its founding in the mid-Meiji period. “Until then, I wanted to do what I loved,” he says. After graduating from high school, he left his hometown, attended a vocational school, and worked as a game designer at a game development company in Tokyo. However, he returned home when his father—the fourth-generation head of the brewery—fell ill. Three years later, following his father’s passing, he assumed the position of president of Kikuzakari Sake Brewery. It was February 2003, and he was 30 years old.

“Make a sake that the owner of a yakitori restaurant would like.”

When Mr. Fujimura took over the brewery, the world was in the midst of a boom in authentic shochu. Meanwhile, sake consumption had been on a steady decline since peaking in 1974. Kikuzakari Sake Brewery was also affected by this trend; “By the time I became president, production had fallen to 500 koku,” he recalls. How could he preserve this brewery, which had lost its former vitality? The guiding principle that helped Mr. Fujimura find his way was his grandfather’s advice: “Make sake that the owner of a yakitori restaurant prefers, rather than sake that’s highly rated by judges at tasting competitions.”

“Apparently, that was something my grandfather often told his employees back when he ran the brewery. For him, ‘good sake’ meant the kind of sake that’s enjoyed in bars—what you might call a ‘meal-accompanying sake.’ So I decided to follow in his footsteps while crafting good sake through my own interpretation,” he explains.

To that end, the first step he took was to reevaluate the brewery’s approach to sake production. At the time, Kikuzakari Sake Brewery was also producing “Sanbai Zōjōshu*”—a type of sake diluted with water and brewing alcohol to increase volume—but as soon as Mr. Fujimura assumed the presidency, he discontinued its production and shifted the brewery’s focus to “Junmai-shu,” made exclusively from rice, rice koji, and water.

“I don’t want to compete on price; I want to deliver sake that I personally believe is good.” Driven by this desire, Mr. Fujimura began to think, “I want to create a new brand that reflects my own values and preferences.”

*A brewing method introduced to address postwar rice shortages, with the aim of producing more sake using less rice. Due to the 2006 amendment to the Sake Tax Act, this method is now effectively impossible.

“Remixing” various cultures. Taxi Driver marked his breakthrough.

Mr. Fujimura has an unconventional background as a former game designer and has also been active as an amateur martial artist. He has also long been a fan of niche subcultures such as music, movies, and manga. Given this background, for the first release of the new brand, he commissioned Kei Nemoto—a manga artist he deeply admires—to name the sake, and Takashi Uechi, a graphic designer known for his many pro-wrestling T-shirt designs, to create the label design. In 2004, the junmai daiginjo sake “Denki Bosatsu” was born.

Then, the following year, “Taxi Driver”—the brand that now represents Kikuzakari Sake Brewery—was born.

“It all started when I had a drink with art director Yoshiki Takahashi in Shinjuku, Tokyo. Since Mr. Takahashi had designed the packaging for some of my favorite movies, we hit it off right away. The conversation got lively as we discussed, ‘Let’s come up with a new sake brand,’ and ‘Taxi Driver’ was one of the many ideas that came up. We felt this could actually work, so we decided on the spot to bring it to market, and Mr. Takahashi agreed to design the label.”

When brewing “Taxi Driver,” Mr. Takahashi’s request was for “a sake that tastes good when served hot.”

“Sakes from Kikuzakari Brewery are known as dining sakes characterized by a robust umami and crisp acidity. They’re naturally well-suited for serving hot. So I thought we could create a sake that met his request without needing to make any special adjustments,” says Mr. Fujimura. Reflecting Mr. Fujimura’s own preference for “rich sake with a high alcohol content,” the sake was brewed as “junmai genshu”—pressed and bottled straight from the press without adding water to adjust the flavor. The result is a robust flavor that holds its own against the striking impact of the label design created exclusively by Mr. Takahashi.

Since then, Kikuzakari Sake Brewery has continued to collaborate with various creators, releasing sake with unique names and labels as the “Jacket Buy Series.” This “remix” of sake with different fields—such as music and video games—has also attracted the interest of people who don’t usually drink sake.

Affected by the Great East Japan Earthquake. While renting space in a brewery, they transitioned to a “100% Junmai Brewery.”

Kikuzakari Sake Brewery had been expanding its customer base by focusing on the production of junmai sake while also developing products and promotional campaigns that incorporated elements from other cultural fields. However, the company suffered a major blow from the Great East Japan Earthquake that struck in March 2011. Although Kitakami City is inland and thus escaped tsunami damage, the building was struck directly by a long, intense tremor. Fortunately, both the employees and the sake that had just been brewed were unharmed, but the brewery was left half-destroyed.

“When you factor in the completely destroyed soy sauce warehouse and other structures, the scale of the damage was immense. After receiving estimates from contractors, we realized that whether we repaired the building or demolished and rebuilt it, the costs would be astronomical. As the fifth-generation head of the Fujimura family, I couldn’t let this brewery—which our family had safeguarded for generations—disappear. Even though I felt that way, it wasn’t a sum of money we could easily raise.”

Since part of the brewery was still barely usable, he managed to resume sake production with minimal equipment; however, this was merely a temporary restoration with clear limitations. About three years had passed with no clear outlook for the future when a sake brewery in the neighboring city of Hanamaki decided to go out of business, and they agreed to lend him their brewing facility.

Although it was in a neighboring city, it was only about a five-minute drive from Kikumzakari Sake Brewery, and the water quality for brewing was virtually the same. Mr. Fujimura decided to relocate, planning to conduct brewing at the rented facility while handling shipping operations at the original brewery.

Then, in the spring of 2014, Kikuzakari Sake Brewery began brewing in its new location. At the same time, the company shifted its focus to becoming a “100% Junmai Brewery,” dedicated exclusively to brewing junmai sake.

Made with koji mold and rice from Iwate

Ever since Mr. Fujimura became president, Kikuzakari Sake Brewery had primarily focused on brewing junmai sake. While the brewery did produce a limited amount of “futsūshu” (standard sake) with added distilled alcohol for local consumption, demand for this type of sake in the local market has been declining year by year. Meanwhile, nationwide, the popularity of junmai sake has been rising as consumers increasingly seek authentic products. Particularly after the earthquake, driven by a spirit of support for reconstruction, the junmai genshu sake “Taxi Driver” began selling well in the Kanto and Kansai regions.

Against this backdrop, just as we were reviewing our production system with the goal of “increasing junmai sake production,” the decision was made to relocate the brewery. Mr. Fujimura seized this opportunity to commit fully to producing only junmai sake. “At the time, there were no other breweries in Iwate Prefecture producing exclusively junmai sake, so I thought, ‘Since we’re doing this anyway, let’s be the first in Iwate,’” he recalls.

The rice used as raw material is 100 percent grown in Iwate Prefecture. What’s particularly noteworthy is that the brewery primarily uses “table rice” rather than sake-brewing rice. “We used to use sake-brewing rice and even sourced Yamada Nishiki from other prefectures, but in the end, table rice produced a flavor that better suited my preferences,” says Mr. Fujimura. For example, “Taxi Driver” is made using “Kakehashi,” a table rice variety native to Iwate Prefecture. Although it was once widely cultivated as a prefectural recommended variety, production has plummeted due to the rise of new varieties. However, Mr. Fujimura maintains, “This rice is the very source of ‘Taxi Driver’s’ flavor,” and he continues to safeguard both its quality and quantity through contract farming.

Furthermore, for “koji”—a crucial element that determines the quality of the sake—the brewery uses “Reimei Hiraizumi,” a koji mold strain developed exclusively by Iwate Prefecture. This koji mold produces moderate amounts of glucose—the source of sweetness—and is well-suited for bringing out a sake profile ideal for aging, perfectly aligning with the brewery’s vision for flavor. The junmai sake brewed in this way is released as “unfiltered genshu”—without any dilution or filtration—to deliver its flavor directly to the consumer. This robust, unfiltered character—straight from the press—has become a defining feature of Kikuzakari Shuzo’s identity, captivating sake enthusiasts across the nation.

Shiki Brewing’s new brewery is complete. Back to the place where it all began.

Kikuzakari Sake Brewery’s “brewing in a rented facility” continued for about 10 years.

“We are the only sake brewery remaining in Kitakami City. Although we temporarily relocated to neighboring Hanamaki City, we always wanted to return to our founding location,” said Mr. Fujimura. However, the disaster-damaged brewery had undergone repeated expansions and renovations, resulting in a complex structure that made restoration difficult. Furthermore, in 2021, the roof collapsed due to the Fukushima Offshore Earthquake and heavy snowfall, damaging the boiler used for bottle washing and pasteurization.

Even so, Mr. Fujimura refused to give up on “rebuilding at the founding site.” Utilizing crowdfunding, he constructed a new brewery and an office/warehouse on the company’s headquarters grounds. In the summer of 2024, he resumed sake brewing in Kitakami. “We were able to return here in the milestone year of our 130th anniversary,” Mr. Fujimura said with a smile.

The new brewery is equipped with state-of-the-art facilities, enabling year-round brewing across all four seasons. They also introduced temperature-controlled thermal tanks, making it possible to handle the entire process—from mashing to bottling—within this single facility.

Meanwhile, for the pressing process—which separates the mash (moromi) into sake and sake lees—they adopted the “Sase-style” press. The Sase-style method involves stacking bags of mash inside a vat and applying pressure from above to extract the liquid. Although it involves the labor-intensive steps of bagging and stacking, the slow, gentle pressing—without excessive force—is said to result in a mellow sake with a smooth mouthfeel.

One reason for choosing the Sase method—which is by no means efficient—is that they had been using it for pressing during the 10 years they rented space at another brewery. “The press at the brewery we were renting was a Sase-style model manufactured in the Showa 30s,” says Mr. Fujimura. “It took at least three days, and sometimes as long as a week, to press a single tank of mash.” The fact that pressing takes time means the sake is exposed to air for that duration, accelerating oxidation. While this method is unsuitable for producing fresh, fruity sake, it proved effective for crafting sake with rich umami flavors suited for aging or serving hot. Furthermore, the refined sediment produced by the Sase-style pressing adds depth to the flavor, becoming one of Kikumori’s defining characteristics.

“Our brewery has always been known for sake with a robust flavor, and I believe the Sase-style pressing has further solidified that direction. “The Sase-style press at our brewery is state-of-the-art, so the pressing itself takes about a day. However, we press on the weekend and bottle the sake at the start of the week. By deliberately letting it sit for a few days, we ensure the flavor remains unchanged from before, while at the same time, the physical labor involved in tasks like transferring the sake has been reduced, making the process much more efficient.”

Bringing the unique flavors of this brewery to the rest of Japan and the world

“Now that our new brewery is complete, we’ll finally be able to stabilize our production system,” says Mr. Fujimura with high hopes. While local consumption once accounted for 90 percent of sales, out-of-prefecture sales now make up 70 percent. Sales in Osaka, in particular, account for more than half of the total. “It seems that people in the Kansai region tend to prefer sake with a robust umami flavor and a clean finish,” he explains. In recent years, inquiries from overseas have also increased, and the brewery has secured export deals to the United States, Italy, and New Zealand.

At the same time, he also hopes to expand his customer base in the Kanto region, particularly in Tokyo.

“To achieve that, I believe the key challenge is finding the right match with liquor stores and authorized dealers. I want to find partners who truly understand the direction of our sake-making and can convey that to customers in their own words, rather than just parroting our message. That’s one of my goals for the future,”

says Mr. Fujimura. While exploring new connections with liquor stores in the Kanto region, he is carefully nurturing relationships with stores and fans with whom he already has ties.

Bringing the sake that only this brewery can produce from Iwate to all corners of Japan—and to the world. Having made a fresh start from its “origins” at the founding site, Kikumori’s sake brewing is now heading into its next chapter.

The post Drawing strength from tradition and innovation, they remain committed to producing “100% Junmai Sake.” Takuya Fujimura of Kikuzakari Sake Brewery / Kitakami City, Iwate Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

A single glass of sake can sometimes make the time spent with loved ones even more meaningful. Rihaku Brewery has been sharing these special moments with the world from Shimane. Although it is a long-established brewery with a history spanning over 140 years, its journey has always been marked by a spirit of challenge. The company expanded its sales channels back when overseas expansion was still rare, and in recent years, it has been pushing the boundaries of sake by brewing with flower yeast and developing products tailored to the times, thereby broadening the possibilities of sake. At the core of it all lies a consistent philosophy: “Creating joyful moments through sake.”

Dedicated solely to sake brewing in the land where the “Myth of Sake Brewing in Izumo” has been passed down through the ages

Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture. In this region, where a long-standing culture of sake brewing thrives, the “Izumo Sake Brewing Myth”—which tells of the gods brewing sake—has been passed down through the generations. In this land, we have continued to brew rich, full-bodied sake deeply rooted in the local terroir, using high-quality water and rice primarily grown in Shimane Prefecture. Today, the brewery uses sake-brewing rice for all of its in-house brands, focusing on the quality of the rice used in the brewing process.

Moving forward with the changing times

The company was founded in 1882. During the Meiji era—when feudal society came to an end and Japan began adopting Western culture—Takujiro Tanaka began brewing sake under the trade name “Tanaka Honten.” At that time, unlike today’s brand-based approach, it was a small-scale business where local residents would bring their own drinking vessels to purchase sake. As the Taisho era gave way to the Showa era, the distribution of sake began to be standardized nationwide, and breweries started promoting their own unique brands. It was at this time that Tanaka Honten adopted the brand name “Rihaku.” The name was chosen by Reijirō Wakatsuki, a native of Matsue City who later served as Prime Minister of Japan. An avid fan of Tanaka Honten’s sake, Wakatsuki named it “Rihaku”—after the Tang Dynasty poet from China—with the hope that it would “be a sake cherished across the ages.”

After the war, against the backdrop of rising demand for sake, the company grew primarily by supplying unblended sake to major manufacturers in bulk (“oke-uri”), and in 1950, it was incorporated as “Tanaka Shuzo.” In the 1970s, at a time when mass production was still the norm, Tanaka Shuzo shifted its focus from “quantity to quality.” The company began full-scale development of its own brand, “Rihaku,” using only rice suitable for sake brewing and pursuing the ultimate in flavor. Through repeated trial and error, they improved quality, eventually earning recognition—including numerous awards—and laid the foundation that continues to this day.

The company then began exporting in the 1980s. Although exporting sake was still rare at the time, the previous head of the family aimed to spread sake culture overseas. Today, 40% of its production is exported to 14 countries, primarily the United States. As the popularity of its flagship product, “Rihaku,” grew, the company changed its name in 1993 from “Tanaka Shuzo”—which bore the representative’s surname—to “Rihaku Shuzo.”

With a pioneering spirit, “passing on sake to the next generation”

The current fifth-generation head of Rihaku Brewery is Yuichiro Tanaka, who studied brewing science at Tokyo University of Agriculture and took over the family business after apprenticing at a specialty shop for local sake in Tokyo.

Mr. Tanaka joined the family business in 2003. At that time, the sake industry was undergoing a major turning point. In addition to market shifts caused by the shochu boom, the artisans who had long supported sake brewing were rapidly aging. Rihaku Sake Brewery was no exception. Sensing that “if things continued this way, we would no longer be able to brew sake,” Mr. Tanaka decided to overhaul the company’s production system, which had been centered around the head brewer. He took the bold step of creating a system that would ensure stable sake production.

Introducing modern equipment to pass on the skills of the “Izumo Toji” to future generations

The quality of Rihaku Sake Brewery is underpinned by the expertise of the Izumo master brewers. Through meticulous koji production and a method of slow fermentation at low temperatures, they have consistently produced sake with high acidity and a robust flavor. However, this technique relied heavily on experience and intuition. To address this, Mr. Tanaka pushed forward with digitizing the production process and investing in equipment, enabling the management of fermentation conditions—such as status, temperature, and duration—through numerical data. He refined the process into a reproducible system and established it as the “Rihaku Brewery Method.”

At the same time, not everything is left to machines. For critical processes such as koji production, the brewery places great importance on manual labor, shifting from a approach where “humans control the koji” to one where “humans prepare an environment conducive to the koji’s activity.” By closely monitoring temperature and humidity and making adjustments based on the koji’s condition, they bring out its full potential. Advances in technology and equipment have made the kind of meticulous management that was once difficult possible, leading to stable quality and further improvement.

In recent years, climate change has made the quality of rice more variable. As a result, they strive to make improvements every year while monitoring its condition. “There’s no end to the adjustments,” he says. “To deliver good sake, we will continue to conduct repeated analyses,” showing that he is not content with the status quo.

Creating a New Identity Using Flower Yeast

Until Mr. Tanaka returned to the brewery, they had been producing classic-style sake by combining sake rice varieties such as “Gohyakumangoku” and “Yamada Nishiki” with “No. 9 yeast,” which creates a crisp, clean flavor. This method has long been used to consistently produce high-quality sake thanks to the expertise of the Izumo master brewers.

At the same time, Mr. Tanaka took on the challenge of creating a new combination using the “Omachi” sake rice variety and “flower yeast.” “Flower yeast” refers to sake yeast that has been successfully isolated and cultured from flowers found in nature. While the character of the sake varies depending on the type of flower used, it is said to be particularly effective at producing a floral ginjo aroma and fruity flavors, making it a popular choice for crafting distinctive sakes. Drawing on his experience researching flower yeast during his university days, he set out to create sake in a style distinct from traditional methods.

“I wanted to create a new flavor unique to ‘Rihaku Sake Brewery’—one that differs from the techniques of the Izumo master brewers,” he explained. With this vision in mind, he selected his ingredients to achieve a balance of a robust body with a refreshing aroma and light acidity. The elegant flavor has been well-received by women and those new to sake.

Such initiatives are part of the challenge to preserve tradition. It is precisely this attitude—taking a step forward without fear of change—that serves as the driving force to carry sake culture into the next era.

Providing a pleasant experience through sake

Japan’s drinking culture began as a sacred “ritual connecting the gods and people” rooted in Shinto rituals, and has evolved uniquely as a setting for enjoying the seasonal beauty of nature—flowers, birds, the wind, and the moon—as well as for social interaction. Within this culture, sake has always been a part of daily life, not merely as a luxury item, but as a force that connects people.

“What we’re making isn’t just sake—it’s an ‘oasis’ that enriches people’s time,” says Mr. Tanaka. His philosophy is that sake should not take center stage, but rather serve as an element that enhances conversation and meals.

Sake is, after all, merely a “catalyst.” Its presence sparks conversation and makes meals more enjoyable. He wants to support such moments. To that end, he prioritizes a flavor profile that balances well with food. He aims to create sake that never grows tiresome and naturally invites you to take another sip.

Our Commitment to Preserving Sake Culture Accurately

At Rihaku Sake Brewery, guided by the philosophy of “promoting sake culture and passing it on correctly to future generations,” we use sake-brewing rice in all of our sake. Sake-brewing rice refers to rice that has been selectively bred to be suitable for brewing Japanese sake. Although it is more expensive, it produces fewer off-flavors and makes it easier to achieve a clean taste that pairs well with meals.

Additionally, the brewery uses water from one local well and three wells on its premises; since all are part of the same water system, they are all utilized in the brewing process. The soft mouthfeel and clean finish make the sake easy to drink and support its appeal as a meal-accompanying sake.

Bringing richness to daily life with a tireless spirit of challenge

To preserve tradition,Rihaku Sake Brewery’s quest for innovation never stops.

In 2024, the company began selling its sake in pouches. It is highly unusual for a regional sake brewery to handle everything from development to manufacturing in-house, making this a groundbreaking approach for the industry. “Because they’re lightweight and easy to carry, our pouches are being chosen for new occasions such as outdoor activities and watching sports. They’re also increasingly popular as souvenirs among international visitors.” The company says it aims to begin selling unpasteurized sake in pouches in the future.

At the heart of these efforts is the desire for people to share pleasant moments together, transcending national and cultural boundaries. Rihaku Sake Brewery will continue to deliver the richness that each cup of sake brings to the world.

The post Preserving tradition and sharing the charm of sake with the world: Yuichiro Tanaka, 5th-generation head of “Rihaku Sake Brewery” first appeared on NIHONMONO.

“Sharaku,” which has gained popularity among local sake enthusiasts nationwide for its high quality, and “Aizu Miyaizumi,” which has been beloved locally since the brewery’s founding. “Miyaizumi Meijo” continues to pursue its ideal of sake brewing through these two brands. Amid abundant water sources and a climate ideal for sake brewing, fourth-generation brewery owner Yoshihiro (the older brother, pictured right) and Managing Director Yamato (the younger brother, pictured left) take on the challenge with a passionate desire to “create even better sake.” While meticulously monitoring the ever-changing temperature, humidity, and aromas within the brewery to refine the quality of their sake, the team—led by the Miyamori brothers—works as one to craft their sake.

A sake brewery in Aizu, a region renowned for its sake, that has carried on a 400-year history

Aizu-Wakamatsu City is one of the leading sake-producing regions in the Tohoku region. The Aizu Basin, surrounded on all sides by mountains, experiences significant seasonal temperature fluctuations. With cold winters that keep bacteria at bay, it is blessed with a climate and environment ideally suited for sake brewing. Furthermore, having flourished as a castle town, the area has a long history dating back to the Edo period, when numerous sake breweries were established and competed to refine their brewing techniques.

Located near the famous Tsuruga Castle, the charming brewery “Miyaizumi Meijo” was founded in 1955 (Showa 30). While there are many breweries with hundreds of years of history, this one might seem relatively new—but that is not the case. Miyaizumi Meijo is a brewery that branched off from “Hanaharu Shuzo,” one of the oldest and most prestigious breweries in Aizu-Wakamatsu, founded in 1718 (Kyōhō 3). Although its history as a company is short, it carries on a 400-year tradition of sake brewing.

The exterior, which blends seamlessly into the atmospheric streetscape of this castle town, is designated as a historic landmark, and the brewery grounds themselves are filled with charming spaces. Although it was originally a small facility, it has taken on its current form through a series of expansions. The varying heights of the roofs and the different materials used for the walls add to its unique character, giving the building a rich variety of expressions.

As the fourth-generation head, he is taking on the challenge of revitalizing the brewery and pioneering new brewing methods

The older brother, Yoshihiro, and the younger brother, Yamato, have an unusual background: after graduating from college, they both worked as systems engineers (SEs). In 2002, Yoshihiro quit his job as an SE and returned to Fukushima to turn around the family business, Miyaizumi Meijo. He was 26 years old at the time.

“We completely reevaluated our sake-making methods and production environment from scratch,” Yoshihiro recalls. “Although we had won gold medals several times at the National New Sake Competition, the techniques we’d honed for our competition entries weren’t being applied to our other sakes at all. So I became increasingly determined to apply the knowledge gained from making those competition sakes to our regular retail products and revitalize our lineup.”

At the time, the president was responsible for management, while the head brewer handled production. However, Yoshihiro believed that “if the business leader were also involved in the brewing process, we could get closer to our ideal flavor.” He traveled around the country visiting breweries he believed produced high-quality sake, incorporating their excellent techniques as he pursued a new flavor profile.

The bond between brothers has brought a breath of fresh air to the sake brewery

After working as a systems engineer, Yamato became a secretary to a member of the Diet. One day, his older brother Yoshihiro—who had already returned to their family home—asked him, “Yamato, why don’t we make sake together?” “I’d always wanted to work with my brother someday, so I didn’t hesitate for a moment,” Yamato says with a beaming smile.

“I wanted to produce sake of a consistently high standard, and as the number of stone vats was gradually increasing, I felt I needed my younger brother’s help to improve the quality of our local brand, ‘Aizu Miyaizumi,’” says Yoshihiro. From that point on, a new chapter in sake brewing centered around the brothers began.

In recent years, Yoshihiro has primarily been in charge of brewing “Sharaku,” while Yamato has focused on “Aizu Miyaizumi,” and together they continue to pursue their ideals through these two brands.

Reviving “Sharaku,” Which Once Nearly Disappeared, to Reform the Warehouse

Originally, the “Sharaku” brand belonged to Higashiyama Shuzo, a brewery that traced its roots back to Miyamori Bunjiro Shoten—the original main branch of the Miyamori Shuzo family. Although it was popular among the people of Aizu, Higashiyama Shuzo regrettably went out of business in 2009. Consequently, Miyaizumi Meijo, which shares the same origins, took over the “Sharaku” brand.

“Although we took over the ‘Sharaku’ brand, I wanted to create a sake that would be recognized nationwide, so I poured the sake-making expertise I had cultivated over the years into crafting a new sake,” says Yoshihiro. As a result, “Sharaku”—whose history had once nearly come to an end—has grown into a sake that enjoys nationwide popularity. In 2014, at the “SAKE COMPETITION”—an event that determines Japan’s most delicious commercially available sake—it won first place in both the Junmai and Junmai Ginjo categories, proving its exceptional quality to the nation. Since then, the brewery has continued to strive for even higher quality, and “Sharaku” has become such a renowned sake that it is now a regular gold medal winner at various competitions.

“Aizu Miyaizumi”: Continuing to Take on Technical Challenges

“Aizu Miyaizumi” primarily ships its products within Fukushima Prefecture. Considered a premium sake on par with “Sharaku” in terms of flavor and quality, it achieved remarkable success in 2018 by winning first place nationwide in the Junmai category at the “SAKE COMPETITION” and earning numerous awards at international sake competitions, thereby gaining national attention. Driven by a single-minded desire to “cherish the brand that has been safeguarded by generations of brewers,” the brewery has consistently raised the bar for brewing quality.

“Aizu Miyaizumi will continue to pursue technical challenges as we strive to create the ideal sake,” says Mr. Yamato. The brewery is not content merely to “preserve tradition”; its pursuit of new brewing innovations knows no bounds. Using sake-brewing rice varieties developed by Fukushima Prefecture—such as “Yume no Ka” and “Fuku no Ka”—as well as “Wataribune No. 2,” “Yamada Ho,” “Yamasake No. 4,” and “Oyama Nishiki,” the brewery has produced a diverse range of sakes. “There are still many brewing styles and techniques I’d like to try in the future,” Mr. Yamato says with a delighted smile.

Uncompromising Sake Brewing with High-Quality Water and Rice

The brewery is highly regarded not only for the quality of its sake but also for its strict hygiene standards. Beautifully polished wooden corridors, imposing tanks, and koji quietly maturing over time. While many breweries store their sake at room temperature or in tanks, Miyasumi Meijo strictly adheres to immediate bottling after pressing and refrigerated storage of the entire batch in bottles to prevent oxidation from air exposure and deterioration at room temperature.

“Starting with the process of drawing groundwater to create the brewing water used throughout every stage of sake production—from managing raw materials and the moromi (fermenting mash), to pressing (the process of separating the finished moromi into sake and lees), storage, and shipping—we make no compromises in the work and environment necessary to improve the quality of our sake,” says Mr. Yamato.

Aiming for High-Quality Sake Through Data Management and Accumulation

Inside the brewery, there is a space that exudes a unique atmosphere, much like a laboratory. In the “Analysis Room,” lined with various analytical instruments, there were analyzers capable of measuring data—such as alcohol content, acidity, and Sake Meter Value (sweetness)—necessary for assessing the fermentation progress of the mash before it becomes raw sake.

Both Mr. Yoshihiro and Mr. Yamato majored in science in college, so they are meticulous about collecting data. This is to ensure that they can verify their findings at any time. Believing that “good sake can only be achieved through accumulated experience,” they manage all data related to their research aimed at further advancing sake brewing, as well as data on every batch of sake they actually produce. Through this approach, Miyaizumi Meijo pursues the production of delicious, high-quality sake at the highest possible standards.

With our sights set on the world, we’ll keep taking on new challenges while having fun.

“Our brewery has now reached the ideal scale,” says Yoshihiro with a smile. “We used to be a small brewery that didn’t even produce enough to fill 10 tanks, but now we’re making 150 tanks’ worth. A brewery of about 2,000 koku is ideal because we can keep a close eye on everything.” He goes on to share his new dream: “Going forward, we want to deliver sake that people around the world—not just in Japan—will find delicious, so we’re also considering venturing into exports. I hope our sake will be discovered by people all over the world.”

“Working alongside my brother is incredibly fulfilling,” says Yamato, his eyes sparkling. “I look forward to exploring the exciting world that lies ahead together with my brother, the president.” He reaffirms his resolve: “As the population continues to decline and the number of drinkers shrinks, I believe it’s crucial to reach out to the world. I want to keep taking on new challenges so that people will say, ‘Miyaizumi is doing something fascinating again.’”

As long as these positive challenges continue, the future of Miyaizumi Meijo looks set to become even more exciting. Just imagining what kind of sake they’ll create makes my heart race.

The post Preserving tradition while continuing to take on new challenges. Yoshihiro and Yamato Miyamori of “Miyaizumi Meijo,” who captivate customers with two brands that linger in the heart and memory / Aizuwakamatsu City, Fukushima Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Yusuke Kawata of “Omishima Minna no Winery” moved to Omishima in Ehime Prefecture on his own to grow grapes and make wine. Having traveled across the country from north to south to study winemaking at various wineries, Kawata’s goal on Omishima is to create wines whose flavors capture the island’s unique charm.

I moved to Omishima after sensing its potential as a wine-producing region

Mr. Kawata, who was interested in winemaking, attended a university in Yamanashi Prefecture—a major hub for Japanese wine—and spent his college years visiting renowned wineries across the country to gain practical experience. Shortly before graduating, he had the opportunity to participate in the “Project to Revitalize Omishima,” launched by architect Toyo Ito, which sparked his interest in winemaking on Omishima.

Ito, who has won numerous architectural awards both in Japan and abroad and enjoys worldwide acclaim, is also a figure who has actively engaged in regional revitalization beyond the realm of architecture. His vision—to utilize the island’s landscape and resources to foster new industries and attract people—resonated deeply with Kawata.

High-quality grapes are an essential prerequisite for winemaking. Kawata realized that Oshima’s climate closely resembles that of Katsunuma in Yamanashi Prefecture—Japan’s premier wine-producing region—and, convinced that this land would surely yield excellent grapes, he decided to embark on winemaking with Mr. Ito and his team.

“The scenery of the Seto Inland Sea is truly magnificent. It’s very similar to Shizuoka, where I was born and raised—the sea is close by, it feels wonderful, and the people who live here are kind. I wanted to try growing grapes and making wine here.” In 2015, Kawata moved to Omishima on his own. He leased abandoned farmland—which had become a challenge for the island—planted grapevines, and began cultivating grapes.

The constant trial and error is challenging, but it’s also fun

Although he has a deep knowledge of wine, grape growing was a first-time challenge for Mr. Kawata. He began by consulting local farmers who knew the land intimately to select high-quality vineyards suitable for grape cultivation. “The soil on Omishima is sandy loam formed from weathered granite, which drains well and is ideal for growing grapes. However, it also has poor water retention, so we have to take that into account. “I’m working on this while learning various techniques from local farmers, such as adding compost to activate the soil’s microorganisms,” says Kawata. His commitment to using locally sourced fertilizers stems from his desire to preserve the unique character of the land. He also values grape cultivation that is deeply rooted in this region, going so far as to handcraft the materials for his trellises with the help of a local shipyard.

We grow a variety of grape varieties, including the popular Chardonnay, Muscat Bailey A—the first variety developed in Japan—and Albariño, which originates from coastal regions of Spain and Portugal where the climate is similar to that of the Seto Inland Sea. “I chose Chardonnay because it’s grown all over Japan, so I thought it would be easier to discern the terroir. Koshu is also a famous variety, but I felt I might be too constrained by its name, so I’m not growing it at the moment. I’m experimenting with various varieties—looking for ones that are disease-resistant, high-yielding, and well-suited to the island—but it’s going to take quite some time to find the right answer,” he says. Both cultivation methods and variety selection are a constant process of trial and error.

Wines raised on the island, crafted at a small winery by the sea

The grapevines planted in 2015 bore fruit for the first time in 2016, but unfortunately, the entire crop was devoured by wild boars, so the following year, 2017, marked the long-awaited first harvest. The harvested grapes were vinified at a winery outside the prefecture, resulting in the birth of Omishima’s first-ever wine—a truly historic milestone. Furthermore, in 2019, a winery was established on the grounds of “Omishima Ikoi no Ie,” an accommodation facility renovated from a former elementary school. This made it possible to produce wine that is 100% Omishima-grown in both name and reality.

Despite various design constraints, Mr. Kawata poured everything he had learned into the winery, striving to incorporate as many of his personal preferences as possible. One such feature is the gravity flow system, which utilizes the elevation difference to move raw materials to tanks and aging vessels. He explains that this method places less strain on the grapes than using pumps, allowing their natural flavors to shine through. For the tanks, after carefully weighing the pros and cons of options such as enamel, resin, and concrete, they ultimately opted for custom-made stainless steel tanks from Slovenia. They also introduced French oak barrels, both five-year-old and three-year-old. While new barrels impart a strong woody aroma, the flavor becomes milder with use, deepening the harmony with the wine. Selecting the right barrels based on their age-specific characteristics is another of Mr. Kawata’s key commitments.

First, a wine that more people will enjoy

Mr. Kawata aims to create “truly Japanese” wine. “Rather than striving to meet Western standards, I want to cherish the flavors that emerge from Japan’s climate and soil, using grapes grown right here in Japan. I believe there is genuine value in the ‘truly Japanese’ wine that results from this approach. The lightness that was once described as ‘like water’ is, when you look at it another way, a gentleness that complements any dish. It’s unpretentious and comes alive at the dinner table. That, I feel, is what a ‘Japanese-style’ wine is all about,” he says.

A pleasant life on Omishima, surrounded by grapes and wine

It has been 10 years since Mr. Kawata moved to Omishima. While there have been significant changes in grape cultivation and winemaking, he says these past 10 years have also been a whirlwind of changes for him personally.

“I came to Omishima alone, but then I met my wife, we got married, and we had a child. It’s been a decade in which the meaning of my life shifted from ‘coming here to grow grapes and make wine’ to ‘living here.’ Even though I sometimes feel a bit of inconvenience regarding infrastructure and such, every day is fulfilling, and I am truly satisfied with my life on Omishima,” he says.

The island’s current population is approximately 5,000. While the original resident population is on the decline, the number of people moving to the island from elsewhere is reportedly increasing. The reasons for moving vary from person to person, but many cite a desire to live in the Seto Inland Sea, a wish to contribute to the island’s revitalization—such as through the Regional Revitalization Corps—or a decision to settle here after falling in love with the place during a visit. Even without moving permanently, some people maintain a dual-residence lifestyle, keeping their primary address and job elsewhere. “I wonder if the number of people leaving the island will eventually be overtaken by the number of people moving in?” Kawata says with a laugh.

Wines from a small island in the Seto Inland Sea

While Omishima has many charms, it also faces its share of challenges. Adapting to the climate changes caused by global warming in recent years is a serious issue. In particular, the summer of 2024 brought life-threatening heat, forcing both people and the grapes to struggle just to survive.

Furthermore, according to Mr. Kawata, neither the grapes nor the wine have yet reached a satisfactory level in terms of quality or technique. “I haven’t yet established what ‘the taste of Omishima’ means to me,” he says. “So, my first priority is to clarify that. My goal is to create a wine that expresses the atmosphere of Omishima—a wine that is approachable and full of depth, one that allows you to feel the sea and the wind of Omishima.”

His immediate goals are to produce wines with a flavor he finds satisfying and to get the islanders—who aren’t accustomed to drinking wine—to try their wines. Beyond that, winning an award at the Japan Wine Competition is his primary objective, and eventually, he hopes to compete in international competitions. Mr. Kawata’s dreams continue to expand.

The post Our goal is to create wines that capture the essence and atmosphere of the Seto Inland Sea. “Omishima Minna no Winery” / Imabari City, Ehime Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Yuri Kawana serves as both the representative and head brewer at Kawakei Shoten. While honoring tradition, she embraces new techniques and challenges, approaching sake brewing with the philosophy that “tradition is preserved only by pushing boundaries.” In particular, the flagship brand “Koganesawa” captivates a wide range of people—from beginners to connoisseurs—with its rich aroma and smooth finish. What does Yuri value most in her pursuit of crafting sake that stands out?

Established 120 years ago. “Kawakei Shoten” was founded by a merchant family with ties to the Date clan.

In 1902, the first-generation Keiji Kawana founded “Kawakei Shoten” in Wakuya Town, Toda District, in northeastern Miyagi Prefecture. The company traces its roots to a hardware merchant who served the Date clan of the Sendai Domain. Following the Land Tax Reform, which granted him farmland, he relocated to Misato Town, located south of Wakuya Town. Although Misato Town was known since ancient times for its fertile soil and thriving rice production, the land acquired by the Kawana family was largely marshy and unsuitable for rice cultivation. Consequently, they turned their attention to sake brewing as a livelihood independent of agriculture and decided to establish a brewery.

Continuing to produce unique sake using the Yamahai brewing method

Since its founding, Kawakei Shoten has been committed to the “Yamahai-style brewing” method, which utilizes natural lactic acid bacteria to cultivate the shubo (yeast starter). The shubo is the process of cultivating yeast to create the foundation for fermentation, and it is a crucial factor that determines the flavor of sake. Because this method is time-consuming, labor-intensive, and requires a high level of skill, the brewery once limited production to about 60% of its capacity and relied on “sokujo-zukuri” (rapid fermentation), which involves directly adding artificially produced lactic acid, to make up the difference. However, Yamahai-style sake now accounts for 90% of production. Yuri explains the reason: “Yamahai-style brewing allows each brewery to express its unique character, enabling us to convey the distinctive flavor of Kawakei Shoten. I feel it is indispensable to Kawakei Shoten today.”

Carefully brewed using locally sourced rice and water, “Koganesawa” is characterized by its delicate and refined flavor and is highly regarded as a sake that pairs well with meals. Another reason for its popularity is that it tastes delicious at any temperature—whether served chilled, lukewarm, or hot. The name originates from the fact that it was brewed by a merchant from Wakuya Town, a region famous for gold mining.

The Role of an Only Daughter Raised in an Era of Declining Interest in Sake

For Yuri, having a sake brewery as part of her everyday surroundings since childhood was simply a given, but she says she never gave much thought to the history and craftsmanship that lay within it. However, as she grew older and came into contact with the memories of her community and family, she gradually began to understand its significance.

Partly because sake consumption plummeted during her formative years, she had come to view sake brewing as an “unrewarding job.” However, the Great East Japan Earthquake of March 2011 changed her perspective. Her family home collapsed, and since restoration took time, she began to reflect on the significance of being born as the only daughter of a family that ran a sake brewery.

Learning every aspect of sake brewing from scratch and aspiring to become a master brewer

In the wake of the earthquake, Yuri, the only daughter of the Kawake family, began to consider taking over the family business. Regardless of whether she would actually take over the business, she decided to find out what sake brewing was really like, so she participated in a 40-day training course held at the Tokyo Office of the National Research Institute of Brewing (which was merged into the headquarters in Hiroshima Prefecture in 2015). The National Research Institute of Brewing is a government research institute dedicated to studying the quality of alcoholic beverages and brewing techniques; it also offers educational programs that attract sake brewers from across the country. “Once I tried it, I found sake brewing to be quite interesting,” she recalls with a laugh.

That feeling encouraged her to learn sake brewing from scratch, and in 2012, she joined Kawakei Shoten. She says she was initially confused and knew nothing, but as she learned from those around her, she gradually began to discover the appeal of sake brewing. Then, following her father’s passing, she took on the responsibility of sake brewing as the head brewer in 2019.

Assessing the quality of the ingredients to craft a delicious sake

Yuri is particular about washing the rice by hand. While she does use some machinery, she says that washing 5-kilogram batches by hand allows her to closely monitor for broken grains and check the rice’s water absorption, making it easier to achieve the desired sake profile. In recent years, rice has tended to become harder, and since the washing method can significantly affect the quality of the sake, she pays the utmost attention to this process. When washing, she explains that she does not scrub the rice vigorously as one would with table rice, but rather washes it gently, with the aim of gently removing the bran.

Striving to produce better sake, we are exploring new flavors at Kawakei Shoten

Kawakei Shoten’s current sake brewing is guided by the theme of “brewing with a pure heart, always keeping our drinkers in mind.” To achieve this, the brewery strictly adheres to the “ginjo-style” method, which involves long-term, low-temperature fermentation from the koji-making stage through the yeast starter and mash. This process ensures the sake develops a clean, refined flavor.

However, the brewery notes, “Compared to other companies’ koji, ours has a somewhat subdued character, so we’d like to try our hand at producing a more robust koji in the future.” Their goal is to create sake with both clarity and a solid structure.

“Koganesawa’s Position”: A Reassessment Amid the COVID-19 Pandemic

Amid declining demand for sake during the COVID-19 pandemic, Yuri chose to dedicate time to reevaluating the brand. As a result, she says the appeal and positioning of “Koganesawa” have become much clearer. The goal is to pursue a sake that “harmonizes with the dining table” and pairs well with any dish, while remaining a constant presence in people’s lives. To that end, she is determined to “continue taking on new challenges and create even more delicious sake.”

Though not flashy, it complements food and enriches the drinker’s experience. It is this accumulation of such moments that represents the value Kawakei Shoten has upheld for 120 years. “Koganesawa” will continue to evolve and remain beloved for years to come.

The post Cherishing the bounty of this land, we offer sake that can only be enjoyed at Kawakei Shoten. Yuri Kawana, 7th-generation owner of Kawakei Shoten / Misato Town, Enda District, Miyagi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The Ikawa Distillery, Japan’s highest-altitude distilling facility, stands amidst the forests of the Southern Alps along the border of Shizuoka and Yamanashi Prefectures.Operated by Jūzan Corporation, part of the Tokushu Tokai Paper Group, which owns vast company-owned forests in this area. Why did these paper-making professionals venture into the unknown territory of whisky? Behind it lies a grand story of “forest utilization” – connecting the rich ecosystem of the Southern Alps to future generations.

Deep in the mountains, beyond the reach of radio waves, the stills turn quietly.

A 4-5 hour drive from Shizuoka Station. Passing through a gate restricting general vehicle access, the Ikawa Distillery lies further deep within. Located at the Shizuoka Prefecture entrance to the Southern Alps, the Ikawa region is deep in the mountains where even cell phone signals don’t reach.

In this place, lacking infrastructure and offering no conveniences, the production team lives secluded in the mountains, facing the stills. They can descend only once every two weeks. Their life, watching over the birth of the raw spirit deep in the forest, is truly akin to that of a monk in training.

Incidentally, Japan currently has about 150 whisky distilleries, including those in operation and those preparing to open. When Tōzan entered the industry from a different field in 2020, there were only about 40 to 50 distilleries. This means the number has roughly tripled in just five years.

Among these, Shizuoka Prefecture ranks fifth in Japan for the number of distilleries, making it a relatively active region for whisky production.

Within Shizuoka City lies the Gaiaflow Shizuoka Distillery, while the eastern part of the prefecture is dotted with distinctive distilleries such as the Kirin Distillery owned by the major beverage manufacturer Kirin Group, Distillery Water Dragon, and Fuji Kaguyahime Distillery. However, the Ikawa Distillery stands out even within the prefecture due to its unique location, origins, and management vision.

It all began with 24,000 hectares of forest

Tokushu Tokai Paper Co., Ltd. (Tokushu Tokai), the parent company of Toyama Co., Ltd. (Toyama), which operates the Ikawa Distillery, owns approximately 24,000 hectares of company-owned forest in this Southern Alps region.

This area is roughly four times the size of the land enclosed by the Yamanote Line loop in Tokyo. It is one of Japan’s largest contiguous privately owned forests and boasts an exceptionally rich and deep ecosystem, home to many endemic and rare Japanese species. Consequently, the company felt it was imperative to protect this precious natural environment for future generations.

However, maintaining and conserving this vast forest and its ecology incurs enormous costs. While timber was once floated down rivers to be caught downstream and utilized as construction materials or paper pulp, this business model stagnated for over half a century due to competition from cheaper imported wood.

“Simply protecting the forest isn’t sustainable management. We need a business that properly creates value from the mountain and generates funds for its preservation.”

Jūzan and the whisky business emerged as one answer to this long-standing challenge.

The mountain’s blessings were perfectly aligned

When exploring ways to utilize the mountains, the first focus was “water.” The Southern Alps are a vital water source supporting people’s lives, yielding extremely pure soft water completely untouched by industrial or domestic wastewater. While selling this water directly was considered, it was undeniable that this alone had limited added value.

Thus, the idea we arrived at was whisky production utilizing the company-owned forest itself.

The Ikawa district, where our company-owned forest is located, boasts an elevation of 1,200 meters and a humid climate blessed by the mountains. This results in cool temperatures and high humidity throughout the year. The low evaporation rate during barrel aging allows for the cultivation of long-aged spirits that mature slowly over time.

This climate and environment are said to closely resemble those of Scotland, the home of whisky.

Furthermore, the abundant spring water and the superior quality of materials like Mizunara oak, commonly used for whiskey barrels, provided the ideal conditions for crafting exceptional whiskey.

Cherishing the journey of growth. A story called “Dessin”

Thus began whisky production.

Driven by his passion, distillery manager and director Seto, who has tasted and compared various brands, aimed not for flashy impact, but for a clear, easy-drinking whisky that pairs well with food.

He sought to express a “subtle elegance,” akin to the pristine forests of the Southern Alps, where the refined flavors and aromas of the ingredients could be sensed beneath a clean taste.

To achieve this, he focused on the milling process, where the malted barley is crushed.

By extracting a clear wort, impurities are eliminated, leading to the sweet, transparent character sought by the Ikawa Distillery. During this process, careful attention is paid to the balance of “husk,” “grits,” and “flour” (fine powder). Meticulous adjustments are made each time to prevent an excess of flour, which can cause astringency and a heavy mouthfeel.

With their flavor concept and production methods now clearly defined, three years after distillation began, the Ikawa Distillery’s current releases are not yet fully established regular products. Instead, they are infusing their unique philosophy into a lineup that can only be created “right now,” while the brand is still young.

The first release was the “Lab Series,” featuring spirits aged under three years. This series serves as a record of their experiments to understand the “paints” (base spirits) they possess. Following this, they now offer the “Dessin Series.”

The labels feature line drawings of Fauna (ptarmigan) and Flora (alpine plants) inhabiting the Southern Alps. The deliberate absence of color signifies that the whisky is still maturing, still “unfinished.” When color is added to these sketches, and the full panorama of the Southern Alps is depicted in color, the whisky that represents Ikawa Distillery’s “masterpiece” will be born.

“We want you to savor the nature of Ikawa right now, in this moment. Enjoying the layered, unfinished passage of time is part of the true pleasure of whisky,” says Director Setoko.

The 2025 Feat That Astonished the World: Ikawa Proved the Power of “Quality”

In recent years, this supposedly “unfinished” whisky has been winning high praise at international competitions one after another, shocking the world.

At the “Bartender Spirits Awards 2025” held in the United States, the Dessin Series’ “Flora 2024” was honored as “Single Malt Whisky of the Year,” while “Fauna 2025” was named “Japanese Whisky of the Year.”

Furthermore, “Flora 2024” also won Gold Medals at the “San Francisco World Spirits Competition 2025,” considered one of the world’s three major spirits competitions, and at the “International Wine & Spirit Competition 2025” held in the UK, the home of whisky, proving its exceptional quality.

Furthermore, not only its quality but also its project initiatives have been highly praised. In September 2025, it received the “Minister of Finance Award,” one of the highest honors, at the “8th Eco-Pro Awards” held at Tokyo Big Sight. In December, it won the Sustainable Design Award at the “Good Life Awards” hosted by the Ministry of the Environment. Its forest conservation activities through whisky production are drawing attention as a role model for a sustainable society.

Pride in “Paper Making” Transformed into “Whisky”: An Unconventional Group of Craftsmen

The Ikawa Distillery also boasts an unconventional team of makers. Led by Director Setou, who oversees operations, many staff members were originally engineers who made “paper” at Tokushu Tokai Paper. Members recruited through an internal company call for applications included diverse backgrounds like automotive mechanics and alcohol production experience, but all started from scratch regarding whisky making.

Their only prior whisky-making experience was Director Setoguchi’s roughly one-year apprenticeship at Mars Shinshu Distillery in Nagano Prefecture when the project began.

Nevertheless, the meticulous process management honed in paper manufacturing, their keen observational skills that never miss a flaw, and their machine maintenance expertise all contribute to the stability of the delicate distillation process.

Reviving “Domestic Mizunara Oak Casks” with Shizuoka’s Master Carpenters

The company had begun to develop distinctive characteristics in its whisky.

The next step they considered was manufacturing whisky barrels using thinned Mizunara oak and fallen trees from their company-owned forest.

Barrels are a crucial element determining whisky’s flavor. Typically, most distilleries import used sherry or bourbon barrels from overseas. But the company thought: “If we have trees in the mountains, why not make our own barrels? Aging whisky in barrels made from wood grown in our own forests would be a significant advantage.”

They approached Mr. Sugiyama and his son, master carpenters specializing in traditional Japanese temple architecture, based in Shizuoka City.

“If we take apart a used barrel, we can understand its structure and build one ourselves.”

The barrel-making project, launched with such confident words, proved far from straightforward. Even for these master carpenters, the structure of a “barrel” that wouldn’t leak liquid was uncharted territory.

Led by the Sugiyama family, they commissioned a local sheet metal worker to make the hoops (the iron bands that tighten the barrel), while a local sawmill cut the logs. This truly “All Shizuoka” barrel-making effort, harnessing the city’s artisan network, was set in motion.

After about three years, the domestically produced Mizunara oak barrels were finally completed. They imparted a honey-like sweetness and a unique aroma reminiscent of agarwood—considered the pinnacle of aromatic woods—to the whisky. This captured the very essence of the subtle, refined “Japanese” nuance the company sought.

Though still only a few percent of the total, the raw spirit aged in barrels made from their own timber has earned high praise from experts.

For the forest a century from now. The philosophy poured into every glass.

Whiskey from the Ikawa Distillery is by no means inexpensive compared to market prices. There are clear reasons for this.

One is the production cost incurred in the remote, harsh environment. The other is that a portion of the sales proceeds is directly allocated to “conserving the Southern Alps.”

Purchasing this whisky is synonymous with investing in activities that protect the natural environment of the Southern Alps and nurture forests for the next century.

What the company creates is the very essence of the Southern Alps’ landscape and the vision of its forests a century from now.

This challenge has only just begun. It’s still in the “sketch” phase, but the rich waters, Mizunara oak, and harsh winters of the Southern Alps are transforming the raw spirit into amber.

No definitive date has been set for releasing the final version. Each batch of raw spirit has its own character, and their peak maturation points vary. Even the currently released “Flora” and “Fauna,” though unfinished, are delicious enough to be proudly enjoyed.That is precisely why, when this amber drop achieves a flavor surpassing our current whiskies—including the aromas and flavors gained through long aging—it will finally fill glasses worldwide, creating a significant cycle that protects Japan’s rich forests. To ensure these forests remain as beautiful as ever 100 years from now, the stills continue to turn quietly deep in the mountains today.

In 2026, the Igawa Distillery will collaborate with the Shizuoka Distillery, also located within Shizuoka City, to host a distillery hopping tour titled “Taste the Water and Forests of Shizuoka City: Distillery Hopping.” Though both facilities are within the city, they are quite distant from each other, making this a two-day, one-night hopping itinerary.
Guided by each distiller, this tour offers an immersive experience into the essence of whisky making—from brewing methods to collaborative efforts with the local community.

*This tour is not held during the snowy winter season. Preparations are currently underway for tours starting April 2026 and later. Please check the latest information on the website below.
https://travel.daitetsu-adv.co.jp/

The post Whiskey brewed in the depths of the Southern Alps, safeguarding forests for a century to come. The tale woven by “Juyama” / Shizuoka City, Shizuoka Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.