Horai Bridge, the world’s longest wooden pedestrian bridge

In the Edo period (1603-1867), the Oigawa River was said to be one of the most difficult sections of the Tokaido Highway, and the poem “Hakone 8 ri can be crossed by horse, but not by the Oigawa River” was written about it. It is a first-class river that flows through the center of Shizuoka Prefecture and eventually empties into Suruga Bay. The river has long been flooded by heavy rains, and is often stopped by the river.

In addition to the fact that bridges could not be built using the technology of the time due to the river’s width, slope, and other topographical problems, the river also served as the western defensive position for Sunpu Castle, where Ieyasu Tokugawa lived in seclusion, and therefore it was prohibited to build bridges or even ferry boats across the river. The only way to cross the Oigawa River was to be carried across on the shoulders of a kawago-ninshoku, or in a portable shrine-like vehicle called a palanquin. Toll booths for crossing the river, called kawakai-sho, were established in Shimada and Kanaya on both sides of the river, and each developed as a hub for crossing the Oi River. At its peak, there were as many as about 1,000 Kawakoshi trespassers, creating enormous concessions for the Kawakaijosho and the inn towns.

Horai Bridge, a popular tourist attraction as a power spot

In the Meiji era (1868-1912), bridges were permitted to be built across the Oi River, and the Horai Bridge was built in 1872. Since its construction, the Horai Bridge has suffered from flood damage many times, but in 1997, it was recognized by the Guinness Book of Records as “the world’s longest wooden pedestrian bridge,” and has been used for filming movies and TV dramas, attracting many tourists. The bridge is also popular as a power spot for good luck due to the word “yaku-nashi” (no bad luck).

Originally a farm road connecting Shimada-juku and the Makinohara Plateau, the bridge has become a tourist attraction with cafes and souvenir stores in the neighborhood. When viewed from the Shimada-juku side, the 2.4-meter-wide bridge stretches straight out toward the mountain greenery on the other side of the river, with the goal point completely hidden from view. Many tourists pay a toll of 100 yen (for adults) to cross this bridge. When I asked Nakata, who rarely visits tourist spots that appear in guidebooks, why he wanted to come here, he replied, “I thought the scenery was kind of nice. When we started walking, we found it quite enjoyable. The railing is low and there is nothing to block the view. The view was indeed spectacular. The bridge, which only pedestrians and cyclists are allowed to cross, is almost flat and has a low visibility. The water is flowing right under your eyes and you can hear the sound of it. It is as if we are standing in the middle of the Oi River. The sun is strong, but the breeze coming across the river is pleasant. I simply walk back and forth across the bridge with no particular goal in mind. It was a refreshing experience to take a walk on the river, which takes about 30 minutes round trip even if you walk slowly. Don’t underestimate a tourist spot. More to the point, I admired Nakata’s wise eyes in selecting “this is the place to go” from among the numerous tourist spots.

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What is “KURKKU FIELDS”?

Experience nature within an hour from the city center.

KURKKU FIELDS, a sustainable farm and park located in Kisarazu City, Chiba Prefecture, is a facility that offers possibilities far beyond its approximately 30 hectares of land. The facility was created by Takeshi Kobayashi, a musician who produces Mr. Children and is himself a member of Bank Band. Mr. Kobayashi founded the non-profit organization “ap bank” in 2003, and with the theme of sustainability, he has been involved in environmental issues and reconstruction assistance by providing loans to people engaged in natural energy and environmental conservation activities, holding the outdoor music event “ap bank fes,” and launching the “Reborn-Art Festival,” a comprehensive art festival featuring art, music, and food. In 2019, KURKKU FIELDS was born as a sustainable farm that proposes future human and social affluence based on the three concepts of “agriculture,” “food,” and “art.
Kobayashi said from the very beginning of building this facility, “There is no completion here. We want this facility to grow organically to create a new cycle of agriculture, nature, and economy that will lead to the future. It only takes about an hour to get here from Tokyo, so we also hope that it will provide an opportunity for people living in the heart of the city to think about agriculture and nature.”

A sustainable experience for the future

On the premises, there is a cozy café, a store selling bread, processed meat, and sweets, and an exhibition of works by famous contemporary artists from Japan and abroad, including Yayoi Kusama. This is an attractive facility in itself. But there is also a farm, a biotope, a chicken coop, a cow barn, and even a solar power generation system. A leisurely stroll through the rolling hills brought us to the cowshed. This is the only place in Honshu where buffaloes are kept. Mr. Hidetoshi Takeshima, a cheese maker who has been engaged in cheese making in southern Italy for many years, purchases the buffalo, raises them, and produces mozzarella cheese that is as good as the real thing. The horned buffalo are a bit larger than the beef and dairy cows we saw on our trip. The barns are kept clean and free of the smells characteristic of the livestock industry. We enjoyed mozzarella, freshly made that morning, while looking at the buffalo from the side. Each buffalo milks only 1/5th of a Holstein, making it a rare breed. The rich but refreshing flavor and chewy, fresh texture are exceptional. Hidetoshi Nakata, who lived in Italy for many years, exclaimed.
Yes, it’s delicious!　I never thought I would be able to enjoy such delicious mozzarella in Japan.
At the KURKKU FIELDS DINING, visitors can enjoy not only the mozzarella, but also fresh vegetables and eggs from the KURKKU FIELDS.
In addition, there is a Creative Park where you can enjoy picnics, market days, and live events on a regular basis, as well as an overnight program in the “Tiny House Village” where you can spend your mornings and evenings feeling at one with nature while participating in the farm’s activities. The park is also equipped with villa-type accommodations and other amenities.

I felt that KURKKU FIELDS is presenting a new future that communicates the richness of a connected lifestyle with agriculture at its core.

NIHONMONO – 「にほん」の「ほんも…

もっと日本の食に自信を「エコファームアサノ」／千葉県八街市 – NIHONMONO この土地でしかできない野菜の味がある 焼けた肌が毎日畑に出ていることを物語り、いかもに“ファーマー”という風貌

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The Metropolitan Area Outer Discharge Channel, one of the world’s largest underground discharge channels

The Metropolitan Area Outer Discharge Channel in Kasukabe City, Saitama Prefecture, from the outside, is merely a building along the Edo River. However, about 50 meters beneath the surface hides a 6.3-km-long water discharge channel. With an open capacity of up to 670,000 m3, the facility is one of the world’s largest underground water discharge channels, designed to take water from five small and medium-sized rivers flowing nearby, including the Nakagawa, Kuramatsu, Oochikotone, No. 18, and Yukimatsu Rivers, underground and discharge it into the Edo River.

Also used in the movie “Ton de Saitama”

The facility is also used in the movie “Ton de Saitama,” where people gather to liberate Saitama, because of its temple-like structure with giant pillars.

Metropolitan Area Outer Discharge Channel with an “Underground Temple”

Descending a long flight of stairs, one finds a vast space lined with countless koban-shaped pillars. There is some humidity, but there is no smell like sewage. It was hot and humid outside, but this underground space was cool and pleasant. This is the huge pressure-controlled water tank (177 m long, 78 m wide, and 18 m high), known as the “Underground Temple. When there was no water, as in this case, it was often used for filming battle scenes in special effects movies (filming is currently suspended). (The site is currently closed to filming.) There is no other space or view like this one.
The five shafts, from Shafts 1 to 5, are approximately 70 m deep and have an inner diameter of approximately 30 m. The system is designed to take in river floodwaters and channel them into a pressure regulating tank in a controlled manner.

The Metropolitan Area Outer Discharge Channel, which played an active role in preventing flooding

The area around Kasukabe City, Saitama Prefecture, where the Metropolitan Area Outer Discharge Channel is located, used to be a popular and populated area within commuting distance to Tokyo, but the low ground level used to cause flooding every time there was heavy rain. It was in the 1985’s that the basic concept of the Metropolitan Area Outer Discharge Channel was formulated for the purpose of flood control improvement. After conducting surveys, design, and land acquisition, construction work began in 1993, and the project was partially completed in 2006.
In October 2028, when Typhoon No. 19 caused rivers in various areas to overflow and burst their banks, the Metropolitan Area Outer Discharge Channel was in operation, drawing in floodwaters from small and medium-sized rivers and draining them into the Edo River, thereby reducing damage in the surrounding areas, and its success was widely reported in the media.

Tour of the “pressure regulating tank” is also available.

This kind of facility is rare in the world, and many visitors from overseas come to see it. Tours are also offered to help visitors learn more about the role of the Metropolitan Area Outer Discharge Channel, including a tour of the popular underground temple “pressure control tank,” a walk through a previously undisclosed work passage, and a descent halfway down the stairs inside the shaft (content depends on the course; the pump course is currently suspended as of December 2020). The guide is only available in Japanese, but there is also an application that allows visitors to simulate the experience of water being stored in a giant water tank, as well as a multilingual audio guide application for foreign visitors. Hidetoshi Nakata has also brought friends from overseas as a surprise in the past. It goes without saying that this underground water discharge channel protects the lives of the people living in the surrounding area. The pursuit of functionality has resulted in a beautiful and mysterious space. It could be said that this place is also a space with functional beauty.

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Arts and crafts from around the world

Located in the countryside, Matsumoto Folk Crafts Museum is a traditional Japanese style building. Lush gardens spread as you pass through the gate. It was founded in 1962 by Taro Maruyama, who ran a craft shop. He was struck by Muneyoshi Yanagi, the father of the folk art movement, and began collecting artwork.
On permanent exhibition, 800 items from his huge collection, from various parts of Japan and all over the world, are displayed. ”One tends to have an image of folk art museums as displaying old art, but here, art from all over the world, old and new, are displayed. That is one of our distinct features.” explains Masayuki Kubota, director of Matsumoto City Museum.

Simple but unique, light and thin tea bowls

The concept of making tableware is ”something that suits the table of all generations”.　Also, heavy tableware is not suitable for everyday use, and should be light and thin. ”Simple and beautiful. Never seen anything like this” praised Nakata. Lacquer bowls must be handled with care, but unlike ceramic bowls, they do not produce the annoying clicking sound when bowls hit against each other. If you sprinkle tin on the lacquerware, the bowl will make a metallic clank. It is interesting that each bowl has distinct ”sound” depending on its material.

Eggshell artwork by Maruyama

Among the collection, there are some pieces by Taro Maruyama. Nakata is also very fond of this ”rankaku”(eggshell) artwork. ”Rankaku” is a technique of pasting finely ground eggshells to create a design. Eggs and tools used at the time were also displayed. The resting area in the museum is surrounded by pictures and folk art from around the world, and visitors can enjoy a luxurious break. The combination of the garden, the building, and folk art created a mysterious harmony, something apart from the real world.

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Former lacquered comb wholesaler

Nakamura Residence is an estate owned by a former comb wholesaler, Rihei Nakamura. It tells what traditional Machiya-style residents were like back then. As a former Narakawa Village Tangible Cultural Property, it is open to the public, and lacquered combs and materials of the time are displayed on the 2nd floor. The residence is neatly arranged, and the high ceiling enhances spaciousness. Nakata was surprised to hear that it was built about 180 years ago towards the end of the Edo era, and reflected his thoughts to the everyday life of people who were living in the period.

Wisdom of people restored in various ways

There is a small tea room when you go up the box-style stairs of the building. Nakata sat in the tearoom and opened the ”shoji” paper screen, looked out, and commented, ”it is fun to gaze at people passing by.” There is a door guard with beautiful drawings on the cabinet in the tearoom. The door guard is slightly slanted downwards, and if you look at it standing up it would look tilted. That is to make the drawing come to the perfect angle when one sits down for a cup of tea and looks up at the cabinet.

Crime prevention devices- side door and “sarugashira”

We then went outside to see the exterior of Nakamura House. On the eaves, which looks more like a small roof, there were wooden ”saruatama” that was shaped like a monkey’s head. By nailing ”saruatama” to roof boards from below, they made the roof fragile, so if the burglars stepped on the roof it would collapse. It can only be seen here, even in Nakasendo. Another security measure is the small doorway, or a wicket door. Because it is a cold region, it also served the purpose of preventing cold air to come into the house when going in and out.

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Street with many Tsuboya-yaki

We took a stroll around Tsuboya Yachimun Street near Kokusaidori Street. ”Yachimun” means ceramics in Okinawa dialect. ”I’ve never seen Okinawa ceramics closely,” said Nakata. The street was lined with many shops which handle both classical and modern-arranged Yachimun.

Ceramics found only in Okinawa

As we walked along, we came across ”Fe-Nu Kama” (southern kiln) among the lush green plants. It is said to be bestowed from the Shuri royal government, and is designated as the Important Cultural Treasure of Okinawa Prefecture. The kiln is built in climbing kiln style, and takes advantage of the sloped landscape allowing the power of the combustion gas to effectively fill up all kilns.

Reunion at Ikutou-en with the Tsuboya Potter

We paid a visit to a potter of Tsuboya-yaki, Ikutou-en. Tadashi Takaesu, the sixth-generation master potter and a certified traditional art craftsman, has been producing Tsuboya Yachimun here. ”The arrangement of colors like blue, green and brown are very Okinawan”, remarked Nakata. Takaesu let us observe the process of ”tobi kanna” to make designs on the rim of a plate with a plane. It is a technique where a plane with a thin, repulsive blade is used to cut out designs. Nakata, who was observing the work close by, let out a cry of admiration. A picture of a fish was drawn in just seconds, and a Tsuboya Yachimun was completed.

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A Park where art and nature are arranged methodically

Moerenuma Park located in Sapporo city is a park designed by the world renowned architect Isamu Noguchi. Moere Mountain and Pay Mountain is strategically placed around the glass pyramid, ”HIDAMARI” along with 126 playground equipment designed by Isamu Noguchi. The concept of the park is, ”for all the different pieces to come together in one overall sculpture.”The 3 facilities are located at the center of the park in a triangle, and the height of each facility is aligned so there is harmony with the view. Nakata is a big fan of Isamu Noguchi, and he spent a long time walking around the gallery and the garden filled with the beauty of nature and art in harmony.

The final piece of art to fulfill the artist’s wishes

“It was a coincidence that Isamu Noguchi who at that time was involved with several landscape design projects which were beyond the framework of sculpture, got to work on a park in Sapporo. Through a friend, he heard that ”Sapporo has a large piece of land” where the city was planning an afforestation project. He visited Japan within 3 months after this news. He was 83 years old at the time, passing away just a few months after completing the blueprints. After his death, his ideas were put into realization with construction following his wishes ”in the same scale and layout”. Normally, it should have been completed in 10 years. However it took 17 years to complete due to the unusual methods that were necessary. ”Moerenuma Park” is the last piece and a culmination of the work by Isamu Noguchi.”

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Forest, Garden, Art, Food, Looking at nature in different dimension

The Tokachi Millennium Forest in a vast land filled with green, has a diverse natural environment including a meadow, waterfront, pasture, and different views of plants and animals depending on the season. The trees are well maintained and the forest is made to be as natural as possible. You can enjoy aspects unique to Tokachi such as the most beautiful garden, Segway tour which is still rare in Japan, modern art from famous artists such as Yoko Ono, horseback riding, and cheese making. Their goal is for nature and people to coexist, and to provide a place where you can experience the lifestyle of the future.

The astounding garden which feels like a part of the Hidaka Mountain range

We visited ”Earth Garden” designed by Dan Pierson which is one of the main facilities in the Tokachi Millennium Forest. Nakata commented, ”It’s as if they use Hidaka Mountain range as part of the scenery.” He felt the large scale of nature through the fusion of the grassy mountain in the Garden and the mountain range. ”Earth Garden” and ”Meadow Garden” were both awarded the highest ”Grand Award”, the first in Japan, at the 2012 English Society of Garden Designers. The northern garden landscape created by the powerful nature impresses all the people who visit.

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At the tip of Honshu, “Oma Saki”

　At Cape Oma, there is a monument that states,”This is the northernmost point of Honshu.”. The cape is located at the northern end of the Shimokita Peninsula in Aomori Prefecture. Hokkaido is across the sea. On a sunny day, Hakodate in Hokkaido which is about 18 kilometers away, is clearly visible from the cape. Oma is also famous for tuna, and there is also a monument of a tuna at the Cape. To the south is Oma fishing port, where you can enjoy fresh seafood including tuna.

Oma Saki included in Shimokita National Park

Oma Saki is inside Shimokita National Park which is a national park encompassing the major scenic spots of the Shimokita Peninsula. Also in the park are Mount Osore and Shiriya Zaki (Cape Shiriya) which is known for the semi-wild Kandachime horses that graze freely in the area. The scenic locations west of Kitashimo Peninsula are also designated to be part of Shimokita National Park. As you proceed down the cliff-lined coast, you come across Hotokegaura with its continuous boulder formations. It was designated as a National Scenic Spot and Natural Monument (as “Hotokegaura”) in 1941. There is a long staircase going down from the road to the coast. As you step off, a huge rock appears in front of you.

Out of reach from human hands

A well known writer, climber and traveler, Keigetsu Omachi wrote a poem when he visited Shimokita Peninsula in 1922 – “This is a deed of God made by hands of Oni, not a place of man”. The intense quiet of the location indeed gives the impression that it is not of this world. Nature, at times, creates sights beyond the human imagination, and this is one of those sights. Grandeur of nature certainly hit home.

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50 years for 1cm

What is ”50 years for 1cm”? It is the speed of the growth of a stalactite hanging from the cave like an icicle. Not 50cm per year but 1cm per 50 years…. It is an unbelievably long time. Stalactite cave is a cave made by limestone that was eroded by underground water. If the stalactite took 50 years to grow 1cm, how long did it take for the cave to get to its current size? In Iwate Prefecture, there is a famous stalactite cave. It is Ryusendo located in the east in Iwaizumi city of Shimohei county. We eagerly go to the cave looking forward to the adventure.

“Ryusendo” is one of the largest stalactite caves in Japan

Ryusendo is said to be one of the top 3 stalactite caves in Japan. It was designated as the nation’s natural monument titled as ”Iwaizumi Wakkutsu (old name for Ryusendo) and bats” in 1938.
The characteristic of the cave is in the altitude difference of the highest and lowest points, about 250 meters. So there are many staircases, and you will be surprised by the depth of the cave. And to add to this, it is famous for the underground lake. They have counted multiple underground lakes and of those, 3 are open to the public. The third underground lake is 98m deep. It is rich in clear water and the view is mystical. As a matter of fact, the water has been chosen as one of the 100 best water in Japan. It is that clear.

There were people living in the cave?

Ryusendo has a stalactite cave called Ryusen Shindo (Ryusen New Cave)　which was discovered in 1967. We visited there as well. We first saw the site of bats.
”They are asleep”, said Sono Yaegashi calmly as he guided us. Nevertheless, the eerie atmosphere of bats in the cave made us nervous.
According to her, there was also evidence of human life in the cave in the past, not just the bats. They found some clay potteries and bones of animals which was probably their food. ”The cave must have been more comfortable to live since the temperature does not change as much as the outside world”, she explained.
Considering the fact that it takes 50 years for the cave grow 1 centimeter, it made us wonder about the tremendous amount of time for any changes. That means the view here has probably not changed that much since those days. We don’t know what kind of people lived here in what condition, but in front of us, the vision we were sharing was the same view that hadn’t changed for thousands of years. It was a space where we could feel the grandness of nature with our skin.

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