Hideki Takayama is a woodworker who creates architectural interiors and furniture in Mashiko Town. Mr. Takayama is also involved in the redevelopment of a historical building in Kyoto, the former Kyoto Central Telephone Station, and has gained recognition for his work on the architectural project of the Ace Hotel Kyoto, for which Kengo Kuma supervised the architectural design.

Imagining people and space with an emphasis on human connection

Mr. Takayama creates furniture that can enjoy the aging process of wood by combining old and discarded lumber. The warmth of his work is expressed through the importance placed on the texture of the wood.

Mr. Takayama values human relationships and says, “I don’t take orders unless I have a connection with the client.” He communicates with the client, receives the client’s ideas, and gives form to the furniture by envisioning “where it will be placed and what it will be used for. This is why he is able to create furniture that blends naturally with the space and feels right at home there.

Furniture made from old wood that fits well in an advanced space

There is one place where one can strongly feel Mr. Takayama’s sense of the world. That is “Shinpukan” located near Sanjo Street in Kyoto. The facility is a one-of-a-kind commercial space where the latest trends meet Kyoto’s originality, with a lineup of stores unique to Kyoto in addition to new business model stores that are new to the Kansai region and Kyoto. The Ace Hotel Kyoto, located in the Shinpukan building, was created as Asia’s first Ace Hotel based on the concept of “East Meets West. The oval tables and benches custom-designed by Mr. Takayama can be seen in the restaurant “Mr. Maurice’s Italian” in the “Ace Hotel Kyoto.

In addition, “Pilgrim Surf Supply KYOTO” handled by BEAMS opened in “Shinpukan. Pilgrim Surf Supply, a select store from Brooklyn, New York, proposes a lifestyle with outdoor activities centering on surfing through the filter of American East Coast culture, based on the concept of a “dual life in the city and nature. Pilgrim Surf Supply proposes a lifestyle of outdoor activities centered on surfing through the filter of American East Coast culture. The main table at Pilgrim Surf Supply KYOTO was designed by Mr. Takayama.

Self-building a home in Mashiko, where he moved to

Mashiko is the home of ceramics. Located in the southeastern part of Tochigi Prefecture, Mashiko has been famous nationwide as a pottery production center since the end of the Edo period. Mr. Takayama’s home and studio, where he produces woodwork and furniture, are located in an area of Mashiko that is rich in nature and abundant in greenery.

He moved to Mashiko in 2002 and has been building houses ever since.

Before moving here, I helped a farmer build a greenhouse. I built a greenhouse when I was helping a farmer before I moved here, and it was surprisingly comfortable. That’s when I came up with the idea of building a house like a plastic greenhouse. When I found this land, I thought that if I made a prefab house with a lot of glass surfaces, I could expect a similar effect, so I started building it.

Through the large windows, one can see a view of the rice paddies spreading out all over the land. During the rice planting season, the rice fields around the house are flooded with water, making them look like a lake. Beyond the woods, vineyards can be seen on the hills.

How did I end up in Mashiko?

Mr. Takayama, who has lived in Mashiko for 22 years, is originally from Nanao City, Ishikawa Prefecture. After graduating from Bunka Fashion College, he worked in Tokyo making stage costumes and one-of-a-kind clothes and traveling abroad when he earned enough money. At that time, she heard a rumor that “interesting people were gathering in Mashiko.

Before my child was born, I was looking for a good place to live…I wanted to make a hometown for my child when he or she was born. I liked this place because the scenery was somewhat similar to that of my parents’ house.

I was also “happy” with the local people’s understanding of craftsmanship and their culture of looking out for people who are willing to try various things.

Living in Mashiko began with the creation of his home. Furniture Making

Mr. Takayama’s furniture making started when he joined a restaurant owner in Utsunomiya who was opening a café in Mashiko to work on the interior design.

He was required to make tables and other furniture out of scrap wood and other materials, and this is where he came into contact with furniture making.

Mr. Takayama’s furniture making started as a coincidence. However, it was the start of Takayama’s furniture making, which is typical of him who values “karma”. Takayama’s furniture, which is made by skillfully manipulating wood and naturally fits in with the space, is not something he learned from others.

Learning from others is the only way to fit into a mold,” he says, adding that he started out as a self-taught craftsman, “I learned from working in the fashion industry, so I decided to do what I thought was right. For Mr. Takayama, furniture making is an expression of his way of life.

One way of expressing this is that he does not accept requests unless he has a “connection” with the people involved. Rather than design, he creates furniture by imagining the space where the furniture will be placed, the relationship between the furniture and the people who will use it, and the conversations and time that will be spent there.

He believes that furniture should be born from the necessity of integrating into daily life and connecting people and space.

Connections with People Create Opportunities

In Mashiko, there is “starnet,” which opened in 1998 with the concept of “living comfortably with what is around you and within your reach. The concept is “living comfortably with what is around you and within your reach.

Mr. Takayama also created a table for “starnet” as a matter of chance. Furthermore, through the connections made at “starnet,” Mr. Takayama’s family has developed a wine-making business led by his son, Genki.

Takayama says with a laugh, “I was thinking of doing furniture making as a handicraft in Mashiko, and now we are talking about wine.

It is a story that is typical of Mr. Takayama, who values human connections.

The Challenge of Winemaking

When Mr. Takayama’s son, Genki, was in high school, he asked a friend of the owner of “starnet” if there was anywhere he could go to see handicrafts and art during his summer vacation.

The reply was, “Go to Florence.

Surprised at the thought of going abroad, he decided to take advantage of the opportunity and spent a month of his summer vacation in Italy, where he saw about 30 different kinds of handicrafts and visited about 10 museums.

There, he was shocked by the artistry of the last winery he saw. So, after graduating from high school, he went to Italy to work in the wine industry.

Although it was recommended to him, the flexibility that allowed him to go study in Italy alone while still in high school was due to Mr. Takayama’s own behavior in his youth, “Whenever I earn money, I go on overseas trips.

Vineyards Cultivated by the Family of Three

After returning to Japan, Genki realized that the wines he was attracted to were “those that have a relationship with the region in the background” in his study of wine.

When he thought about where he should make wine, he came up with the idea of “making wine in Mashiko.

A senior colleague and an acquaintance connected me to Coco Farm Winery, a winery at Kokoromi Gakuen, a designated support facility for people with disabilities in Ashikaga City, Tochigi Prefecture, and I was able to learn and cooperate with the winery.
Coco Farm Winery” is located in Ashikaga City, Tochigi Prefecture, and is known throughout Japan as one of the leading wineries in Japan, having been used for dinners at international summits.

Furthermore, he was able to collaborate with the local people, and his family of three cultivated land that had begun to fall into disrepair due to aging and lack of management. Now in its third year, the Buto vineyard is planted with nearly 300 vines of 11 varieties, mainly red grapes. In the future, he would like to increase the number of white grapevines as well, depending on the characteristics of the land and other factors.

His father, Mr. Takayama, joined him, his eyes shining with excitement about the future of the vineyard and wine.

Cultivating “Craftsmanship” and Harvest Festivals with Local People

The Takayama family’s wine challenge, led by Genki, has just begun. It is expected to take five to seven years to harvest the grapes, and they hope to spend time “making things” with the local people.

The day may not be far off when their dream of holding a harvest festival comes true, as the three family members smilingly say.

The new challenge of winemaking was also born out of the “connections with people” that Mr. Takayama has always valued.
However, the starting point and core of his activities is furniture making that involves working with wood.

He breathes new life into each piece of old wood, placing importance on dialogue with the client and harmony with the space. Mr. Takayama will continue to make warm furniture in Mashiko that gently accompanies the lives of its users.

The post Hideki Takayama, a woodworker who combines old and scrap wood to create warm furniture / Mashiko Town, Tochigi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

In the Katsunuma district of Koshu City, where the wine culture has been prevalent since ancient times and wine has taken root in daily life, Shirayuri Brewing Company was started as a cooperative brewery by a group of grape farmers. What is the appeal of “Lorient Wine,” a brand that has been refined while building an open family winery?

Katsunuma’s traditional grape wine culture takes root in Katsunuma

In 1876, the Prefectural Industrial Research Institute was built on the ruins of Kofu Castle, and the following year, the Prefectural Brewery was completed.

At about the same time, in Koshu City, located in the eastern part of Yamanashi Prefecture, the establishment of Dainippon Yamanashi Grapes and Breweries Co. In the Katsunuma area in particular, grape growers gathered one after another to form a cooperative and embarked on a joint brewing project to produce wine for their own use. The resulting wine was called “Budoshu,” and a unique style was created in which the wine was stored in one bottle and drunk with a teacup. The wine was drunk not only at weddings and funerals, but also in everyday life, and became a familiar luxury item for the farmers. The custom of making and enjoying one’s own wine led to full-scale winemaking, and today the Katsunuma area is home to more than 30 wineries.

(hereinafter referred to as “Shirayuri Brewery”), founded in 1938, is another winery that was originally a cooperative brewing cooperative. The first generation established the Shirayuri Brewery Cooperative with neighboring farmers, which was incorporated in 1952, and the third generation, Takao Uchida, became president in 1995. After graduating from Tokyo University of Agriculture, Mr. Uchida went on to graduate school in the Department of Brewing and Fermentation, majoring in agricultural chemistry and applied microbiology, and worked for a liquor wholesaler for two years as a distributor before studying practical winemaking at a wine research institute in Provence, southern France. The family wineries he saw in France at that time became the foundation for Mr. Uchida’s passion to realize family wineries in Japan that value the warmth and hospitality that only family-run wineries can provide.

From a Corner of the Orient to the World

Shirayuri Brewery’s brand name “L’Orient” means “Orient” in French. The name “L’Orient” is derived from the idea of “producing high quality wines of European standard from Japan. The spirit of L’Orient Wine is to “create wines that aim for the world while respecting the local climate of Katsunuma.

If you come here and see the vineyards and experience the climate firsthand, you will surely understand our winemaking,” says Mr. Uchida calmly as he stands in the vineyards where hedges of grapes spread all over the land. Standing in the vineyards, Uchida says calmly, “What is important to us is that the grapes are healthy and free of disease. The spacing of the rows is wide and spacious to allow for good air circulation, and the grapes are set higher to prevent moisture from the ground and pests.

The well-maintained vineyards are said to get a breeze when the sun begins to set. The strong wind called “Sasago Oroshi,” which blows locally from the Sasago Pass on the east side of Koshu City, improves the flow of air and keeps the grapes healthy. It is truly an ideal place for fruit cultivation. Our wines are bottled with all of this scenery and atmosphere.

Thoughts on indigenous breeds born in Japan

He also grows his own European varieties, including Koshu and Muscat Berry A, Delaware, Adirondack, Merlot, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot, but Uchida’s passion for the indigenous Japanese varieties of Koshu and Muscat Berry A is strong.

They are the most vigorous grape varieties in the vineyards, but when it comes to wine, they are quiet and humble, just like the Japanese. It is like a Yamato Nadeshiko (a woman of refined elegance and modesty),” Uchida says of Koshu. He also describes Muscat Berry A as “unlike European varieties, it puts health first. It grows vigorously in the vineyards. Although it may not be as flamboyant as Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon, “It’s not about whether the grape variety is good or bad, it’s about the individuality of the grape,” he says. It’s interesting because the differences clearly show up in the wine,” he says. My current goal is to have people say that wines made with the Japanese varieties Koshu and Muscat Berry A are the best in the industry, and I hope that improved varieties born in Japan will exist in this region 100 years from now and produce more gorgeous and dignified wines.

Connecting Beloved Production Areas to the Next Generation

Since Shirayuri Brewery cannot produce enough grapes from its own vineyards alone, it purchases about 70% of its ingredients from contracted farmers. Mr. Uchida, who believes that “winemaking comes from the farmers,” communicates closely with his contract farmers and has built a good, face-to-face relationship with them. He says, “We can make wine because we trust the farmers in the area. That is the beauty of a small family winery. However, the production of grapes for vinification is declining due to the aging of the farmers and the shift to grape varieties for fresh eating. We must protect the Japanese varieties that have been passed down through the generations in this region and preserve them for future generations,” he said earnestly. The spirit of terroir that he learned in France lives on in Mr. Uchida: to preserve tradition, to love his region, and to pass on the entire environment surrounding the grapes to future generations.

Japanese wine is an important part of Japanese culture

In vinification, Uchida explains, “The quality of the grapes is high, so all we have to do is cleanliness and careful maturation. He has won numerous awards at domestic and international competitions, and was delighted when “L’Orient Koshu Vigne de Nakagawa 2021,” brewed with Koshu grapes grown by Mr. Kimiharu Nakagawa of Ichinomiya-cho, Fuefuki-shi, was served to the heads of state at the G7 Hiroshima Summit of the Group of Seven Advanced Nations in May 2023. The fact that a brand using the Koshu grape, which is indigenous to Yamanashi, was introduced as a representative wine of Japan is a great encouragement to the producers, who cultivate the grapes with great care every year. In addition, the fact that Koshu wine was offered as a wine that goes well with Japanese cuisine has increased awareness and attention of Koshu wine, and Mr. Uchida says emphatically, “I would like to deliver Japanese wine to the rest of the world as a part of Japanese culture.

While focusing on winemaking, in 2004 (Heisei 16), the company purchased a distilling machine from Italy and began producing and selling “grappa,” a traditional Italian distilled liquor. Grappa is made from the skins of Koshu and Muscat Berry A grapes, and is produced using the decompression distillation method, so it has a clean, mild taste and soft aroma. The rare domestic grappa is named “Uchida Budo Yakishu” and is now a signature product along with Lorient wine.

An open winery rooted in the community

Mr. Uchida believes that it is important to have as many people as possible visit the winery, see the vineyards and brewery in person, and enjoy the winery with all five senses. He also offers wine bottling and original label-making experiences, and has carved out a history as an open winery where families and groups can become familiar with wine and have a great time together.

The reason why we open our doors to a wide range of generations is because we hope that the people of Japan will love Japanese wine more and actively drink it. Mr. Uchida has always felt that wine is an important traditional industry that has built up the local culture, and that is why he says, “To have pride in this hometown. As the phrase “local production for local consumption” suggests, I want Japanese people to drink more Japanese wine.

While producing high quality wines, Shirayuri Brewery has inherited the grape wine culture that has been loved and nurtured in the region. They will continue to take on the challenge of becoming a family winery that conveys the charm of wine while preserving the Katsunuma wine region.

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Sakai Winery Ltd. has a history of over 100 years in wine production. Since the Meiji Era, when the company began cultivating vineyards and brewing wine in Akayu, Nanyo City, they have been making wine the old-fashioned way, using a non-filter method and the natural yeasts and microorganisms that exist in the area, while also making innovative efforts such as “mixed wine,” a blend of several different types of wine.

History of Sakai Winery

Nanyo City, located in the southeastern part of Yamagata Prefecture, has been cultivating grapes since the Edo period due to the temperature difference between day and night characteristic of the basin and the good drainage of the hilly terrain. Akayu is also famous as a hot spring resort with a history of more than 930 years. Since the late Heian period (794-1192) to the present, it has healed many visitors.

Nanyo City is also a wine-producing region with many small wineries. In fact, six of the 18 wineries in Yamagata Prefecture are located in Nanyo City, including Sakai Winery, which has both a brewery and a store.

It all started with the cultivation of vineyards.

Sakai Winery, founded in 1892, is the oldest winery in Tohoku. It is a brewing company that has been run by the Sakai family for generations, but wine production began in 1887, before the company was founded. The first prefectural governor of Yamagata Prefecture promoted the cultivation of fruit trees, and Yaso Sakai, the 16th head of the Sakai family, began cultivating vineyards.

The Sakai family was also running a hot spring inn business when they started growing grapes, and while running the inn business, they spent five years growing grapes and started brewing wine in 1892. In the beginning, their products were mainly for tourists,
At first, the products were mainly for tourists, and sweet port wine was the only way to sell. After the war, sake became the preferred drink, and wine sales slowed down. However, during the time of Matahira Sakai, the fourth generation of the winery’s founder, wine finally came into the limelight, aided by the spread of Western-style cuisine and the so-called “Itameshi boom. In 2004, Ippei Sakai, the 20th head of the Sakai family and current head of Sakai Winery, completed a master’s degree in brewing at Tokyo University of Agriculture and returned to Yamagata to take his place.

In the past, 90% of sales were to individuals, but now individuals account for 30% and liquor stores and restaurants for 70%. In addition, recent trends show an increase in exports, with distribution in Southeast Asia, the U.S., Sweden, and other countries,” says Sakai. He feels that the wine industry is changing with the times.

Natural farming methods suited to the land

Sakai Winery now has about 15 of its own vineyards in the Akayu area. The nearest one is a five-minute drive from the winery. However, when Mr. Sakai made his U-turn in 2004, there was only one vineyard. It was on a slope so steep that it was difficult to stand on it, and it had been abandoned. Since other vineyards in Akayu have similar topography, it became difficult to maintain the vineyards due to the declining birthrate and aging population, and some land was abandoned in the same way.

Sakai Winery, which purchased such land and increased its own vineyards, now grows a wide variety of varieties. The lineup ranges from traditional varieties such as Koshu, Delaware, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Malbec to varieties developed in modern times. The reason for this is that we are incorporating a variety of grape varieties with the aim of producing grapes that can withstand climate change. This is because in recent years, the summer temperatures in Yamagata Prefecture have risen to the point of extreme heat, causing serious problems such as an earlier harvest time and, in some vineyards, the spread of grape diseases that sometimes make it impossible to harvest at all.

It is natural that vegetation changes as the climate changes. I want to produce wines that can be considered unique, while accepting climate change,” says Sakai.

One of Sakai Winery’s unique attempts is to recreate the way farmers did things 100 years ago using modern technology. One such example is the sheep in their vineyards.

A small ecosystem spreading in our own fields

After becoming the representative of Sakai Winery in 2004, he began attending various study groups around 2007. He stopped using chemical insecticides that he had been using in his company and switched to pesticide-free cultivation. This was done in order to create a flow where the grapes live in the land without overworking and become wine without overworking. As a part of this, they have further introduced sheep.

The sheep’s role is weeding and composting. Because machinery is not allowed in the company’s vineyards on steep slopes, sheep, which feed on grass and squeezed grape residue, take on the role of weeding. In addition, the compost from the sheep compensates for the problem of the hilly terrain where melting snow washes away the nutrients in the soil.

The feces emitted by sheep that eat weeds and grape pomace from the winery nourishes the vineyards and allows the grapes to grow. It is truly a small ecological cycle that smoothly links the vineyard and winery.

Commitment to Unfiltered

In addition to sheep, there is something else that Sakai Winery is committed to. That is that they continue to use traditional methods of production that are rooted in the land.

Take, for example, the tools. The “Kai-ire-bo” (a bar to put in the wine) and wooden barrels made from chestnut trees in Akayu are still used as they were in the old days. By continuing to use them, the brewery’s own yeast is attached to them, giving the wine a unique character. The enamel tanks have also been in use for about 70 years, as they add depth to the wine’s flavor.

The non-filter method has been used since the establishment of the company. Instead of using filtering equipment, they wait for the wine’s lees to settle naturally in the tanks, then scoop out the supernatant and wait for it to settle further. This process is repeated, and finally the wine is aged with the lees in a sake bottle. The reason for using sake bottles is that “the bottom area of a sake bottle is larger than that of a tank, making it easier for the lees to come into contact with the wine. This is a very time-consuming process, but the lees is the yeast that has finished fermenting, and the flavor created by the lees is the same as that of the wine. The flavor created by the lees gives the wine a local character, so Sakai Winery has continued to use this method for a long time.

In addition, since about three years ago, they have been vinifying their wines completely with wild yeast. Wild yeast is a natural yeast found on grape skins. In other words, it is a yeast rooted in the land. Since there was no dried yeast available from the postwar period until Mr. Sakai’s father’s predecessor, they inevitably used wild yeast to make wine, but when Mr. Sakai took over, they used the dried yeast that had become popular around the world. However, more than 10 years ago, around the same time that they switched to pesticide-free cultivation, they started working on reverting back to wild yeast again. Today, they vinify using only wild yeast, which can be said to be the starting point of winemaking.

The latest technology is of course superior, but it is not enough to create individuality. The methods that were left to nature in the past can now be reproduced with modern technology, and by using these methods, the culture and individuality unique to Akayu can now be reflected in the wine, in a good sense.

Brands with the charm of Akayu

Sakai Winery, which grows a variety of grape varieties, also produces a wide range of wines. The names of the wines are also interesting. BIRD UP” is an English translation of the name of the area where the winery’s founder, Yaso Sakai, planted grapes, “Toriajizaka”. The name “Amedanuki” comes from the fact that the grapes are grown in the winery’s own vineyards in “Uruizawa” and “Mujinazawa. The name of the land was chosen in order to identify the characteristics of the wine, which is made from grapes grown in the vineyards.

Among the many brands available, Sakai recommends “Kohime” as the first bottle. The cute name is the name of the Delaware grape used by local farmers. In the past, wine made from Delaware became so popular that farmers became wealthy, so they gave it the name “Princess” and became familiar with it.

In addition to its name, “Mazekoze Wine” is also unique in its production method. This wine is aged in barrels without controlling the variety or year of harvest. Since the percentage of each grape variety is not known, the aroma of the land is said to be stronger.

In addition, the company has also taken on the challenge of producing orange wine, which has been gaining recognition in recent years as the fourth category following red, white, and rosé wines. Delaware, which is easy to find and suitable for the Japanese palate, but has only been used for sweet wines in Yamagata for over 100 years, was used to create a dry wine. Mr. Sakai says that he feels that orange wine, which is made by using red wine production methods to make white wine, has an appeal that has not been brought out in white wine up to now, and has the potential to evolve in the future.

Aiming for an unshakable presence

The Sakai family has been engaged in wine production in Akayu for over 100 years. Their goal for the future is to become an unshakable presence.

They cling to the land where they live, and make wine with the help of grapes while taking advantage of the vineyards and the surrounding environment. Mr. Sakai believes that since it is meaningful to continue on this land, there is no point in comparing ourselves with others. In fact, Sakai Winery, which has been in business for over a hundred years, even survived the World War. As such, he wants to be a winery that is not affected by outside influences.

Mr. Sakai feels that he has finally reached the starting point. There are many things he needs to do and wants to do, such as addressing the new problem of climate change and raising animals in the vineyards that may have existed here for a long time, in addition to sheep. Despite these challenges, he says he already has the conviction that “this is Sakai Winery’s wine.

We cannot take our eyes off Sakai Winery, which continues to take on new challenges while preserving the traditional methods of production.

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Ken and Katsuko Sasaki are winemakers who are dedicated to producing wines with the aroma and taste of the region, based on the philosophy of “nouraku,” which means “to enjoy farming by bending and swinging,” and “to pursue our own ideals without belonging to any one place. The couple, who have been involved in wine production in some of the world’s most prestigious wine regions, chose the Southern Hokkaido region, which includes Hakodate, as their winemaking base.

Learning and meeting in Burgundy, the master of wine

Located at the southern tip of Hokkaido, the port city of Hakodate has served as a hub for international trade. As the gateway to Japan, Hakodate has a history of early influx of Western culture, and its modern buildings with a “high-color” exotic atmosphere are eye-catching. The winery “Norakura” is located in the Motomachi district at the foot of Mount Hakodate, a central tourist area.

Some people are surprised to find a winery in the city center. The farm is located in the Bungetsu district of Hokuto City, which is adjacent to Hakodate City, and the grapes are grown on a south-facing slope with a night view of Hakodate City.

Ken Sasaki, who runs Nora-Kura, says, “We grow grapes on a south-facing slope overlooking the night view of Hakodate city. He and his wife and partner in winemaking, Katsuko, are “growers” who are committed to making wine with a focus on the climate, climate, and growing environment.

The winery, which incorporates both Japanese and Western influences to match Hakodate’s classic atmosphere, was originally renovated from a building that was once a printing office in town. The winery is located in a building that used to be a printing office in the city. We were able to communicate our thoughts on winemaking directly to them, and I think that was a good thing in the end.

Ken was born in Muroran City, but spent his childhood and high school years in Chiba. While pursuing a university education, he had always been interested in wine, which he had always loved.

I was interested in the so-called “sixth industry” of making and selling wine while farming, and I found it more interesting to think about wine than to go to college,” he says. So I went to France.”

In France, he attended an oenology school in Beaune, the center of Burgundy wines, and then returned to Japan and worked at wineries in Yamanashi and Tochigi. As he studied wine in this way, Ken felt that farming and grape growing were not something he did consciously, but something that was integrated into his way of life. In order to confirm whether his feeling was correct or not, he went back to France to further study at renowned wineries such as Christian Vignerre in Alsace and L’Ecrapale in Champagne, both of which are producers of natural wines using organic farming methods.

It was around this time that he met his future partner, Katsuko.

There were Japanese who visited Burgundy, but they all wanted to work as sommeliers or in stores. We were the only ones who wanted to be winemakers.

Born in Saitama Prefecture, Katsuko’s family is a dual-income farmer. They ate rice and vegetables grown at home, and handmade pickled plums and pickles were a staple in the household, so fermented foods were a familiar part of Katsuko’s life.

As she grew up, Katsuko became interested in fermentation, especially sake, and enrolled in the Department of Brewing and Fermentation at the Tokyo University of Agriculture. After graduation, she took on brewing duties at a winery in Hyogo Prefecture. I entered the wine industry because I wanted to make sake, but there was not much to learn about wine in Japan at the time, so I decided to study abroad and then return to Japan to establish my own business,” says Katsuko. She studied at the University of Burgundy’s Faculty of Oenology and spent her days studying to obtain the difficult certification of French National Oenologist (DNO).

It was during this time that she met Ken, a winemaker with whom she had much in common, and the two became comrades, talking about wine and improving each other.

Hokkaido, Donan, and Hokuto, where grape growing conditions are essential

The two naturally became partners. After Katsuko obtained her DNO and Ken obtained his DTO and other certifications, they returned to Japan and finally opened Bungetsu Vineyard in Hokuto City in 2011. The couple chose Hokuto City to fulfill their dream because it was an environment where they could grow grapes for their favorite wines.

We like wines with a strong acidity, which we describe as ‘full-flavored. It’s a little difficult to put into words, but we describe it as a wine that has flavor from the moment it is put into the mouth to the aftertaste. If the wine is not ripe, the taste in the mid-palate is blurred.

It is said that Naimoto wines tend to have a weak mid-palate. He chose Chardonnay, a white wine grape variety native to Burgundy, because it is a well-known grape variety. Although Chardonnay is a well-known grape variety, it is known as a kind of elusive grape variety that reflects the individuality of the terroir and the winemaker, rather than the distinctive character and flavor of the grape itself.

We focused on where the Chardonnay would be to our taste,” he said. Particular emphasis was placed on the effective total temperature. Generally, we calculate this by adding up the number of days during the period from grape budding to harvest (roughly from May to October in Hokuto City) when the temperature exceeds 10°C, which is the lower limit, and the portion of the days when the temperature exceeds 10°C.”

Using 10°C as a standard, they say that if the temperature is too low or too high, the quality of the grapes will be affected. The effective total temperature to achieve the taste of wine that Mr. and Mrs. Sasaki seek is approximately 1,200°C, and to narrow it down to that condition, the altitude is 1,000 m. “Even at the Yamanashi winery,” Mr. Sasaki said, “the conditions are not met.

There are wineries in Yamanashi that meet the criteria, but I thought it would be better to go to Hakodate or Hokuto, which are closer to my roots. And this area is cooler than others. I thought that if the grapes ripened slowly in the cold, they would taste the way I like them. If it is hot, the grapes need to be harvested earlier. Chardonnay grapes need to ripen slowly and be harvested with good acidity, so we need some time in the cooler fall months.

Chardonnay is said to prefer limestone soils. The well-drained, mineral-rich limestone of Hokuto fits the bill. The limestone from the Togatta mine behind the vineyard was also used to create an environment that allowed the unique terroir of Nogakura to be brought to bear on the flavor of the wine.

Nourakura’s philosophy of not daring to list the variety on the label

The year after the opening of his own farm, he established Nourakura in Hakodate, and by 2015, three years later, he and his wife Sasaki were able to harvest a decent amount of grapes from their own work. At the same time, however, they also sell wine made from high-quality grapes from contract farms in Yoichi Town in southern Hokkaido and elsewhere.

The main lineup includes the Nora series, which has a distinctive “This is Nourakura” character; the Nora-Pon series, which uses grapes from contract farms and is full of “Hokkaido character;” and the avant-garde Nora-Ken series, which is made with what Mr. and Mrs. Sasaki call “test-lot cuvées” and is freewheeling and free to do whatever they want. From vineyard work to vinification, the couple works alone to provide only what they are satisfied with.

They use wild yeast and do not use sulfites (antioxidants), which is also the Norakura style.

The wild yeast is clearly more complex and gives a more three-dimensional taste. Of course, there are cases where unintended complexity comes out, but it can be said that it adds depth to the flavor. It is also interesting that we, the winemakers, can control the unintended aspects during the aging period,” says Ken.

As for sulfurous acid, he says that it is partly a matter of taste, as the first sip is more snappy with sulfurous acid, but he also says that wines made with sulfurous acid are less compatible with food, especially seafood. He believes that this could be a fatal flaw for a wine from Hakodate, a seafood town.

Furthermore, it is Nourakura’s style not to put the grape variety on the label. The reason, he says, is that he wants people to simply enjoy the wine without preconceived notions. I think of the grape variety as a kind of symbol. Of course each grape variety has its own personality, but the most important thing is the “character of the region,” so we don’t go out of our way to show the grape variety. It is a very important theme for us to be able to bottle our wines without losing the character of the locality.

Passing on the art of wine and promoting it as a 6th industry

Mr. and Mrs. Sasaki say that as a winery in town, they have been able to convey the appeal of wine to many people. However, they also say that due to the limited space, they have had to ship their wines within a few months of bottling.

We really want the grapes to ferment as they like, so we want to keep the wine for at least six months after bottling. Then we don’t have the space. I believe that some wines have character that only comes out after aging.

He continues, “We also want to devote our energies to increasing the number of winemakers in Japan and spreading the techniques of winemaking.

We don’t increase the number of wineries because we have a philosophy of pursuing our ideals and offering what we are satisfied with, but we would like to increase the number and variety of wines by teaching the skills to those who aspire to be winemakers. For example, there is a clear difference between 10 wineries making and distributing one type of wine each, and one winery making 10 types of wine. The former has more diversity.”

Ken speaks softly, saying that he is willing to share the skills and knowledge he has actually cultivated, and that he thinks it is more interesting. He is also prepared to introduce the winery’s land to prospective winemakers.

I think it would be good to have a sixth industry that combines the arts with the livestock industry and the agriculture and water industry. To make wine and culture more culturally significant, it would be interesting to work with music and painting, regardless of genre.

Mr. and Mrs. Sasaki are planning to relocate the winery to a new location in order to improve the quality of their wines. The new location will include vineyards, a winery, and an auberge run by sommelier Motohiro Ogoshi. The Nourakura’s consistent philosophy of connecting people to each other through wine and expanding the world of wine will continue to be a modest, yet enjoyable endeavor.

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What is a winery that wine lovers are interested in?

Sakaki-machi, Hanishina-gun, Nagano Prefecture, is dotted with the headquarters of many industrial product manufacturers that have a global market share. Although the town is famous for its industry, it does not have the industrial landscape of an urban industrial area. Located in the northeastern part of Nagano Prefecture and surrounded by mountains, the town is a small town of about 15,000 people rich in nature with the Chikuma River, a first-class river, flowing through the middle of the town. In a corner of this peaceful town, there is a winery that has attracted the attention of wine lovers.

The winery, Sakaki Budoshu Brewery, was established in 2018 by Atsuto Narisawa, who was born and raised in this area. Mr. Narisawa was a manager at a major restaurant company in the prefecture and became a certified sommelier while working there. As he learned about the marriage of wine and food and its depth, he became interested in brewing. Later, while working independently and operating several restaurants in Nagano Prefecture, he cultivated a vineyard for wine grapes in Sakaki-machi and opened a brewery.

Sandy gravel soil, a rarity in Nagano Prefecture

Mr. Narisawa’s decision to cultivate vineyards in Sakaki is not only due to his love of his hometown. The most important reason is that this land has sand and gravel soil that is very suitable for wine grape cultivation. The soil is said to be similar to that of Bordeaux, France, and pebbles can be found when a hoe is lowered. The soil drains very well and is resistant to root rot, which allows the roots to grow deep, and the characteristics of the terroir appear in the grapes. The plan worked, and within a few years of cultivating the land, the region began to produce wine grapes with potential that exceeded expectations. The soil is also the source of unique products not found in other regions, such as “Nezumi Daikon,” a traditional Shinshu vegetable with a strong pungent flavor that is a specialty of the region. Mr. Narisawa continues his daily efforts to produce grapes that fully express the unique characteristics of the region.

One of the highest rates of sunny days and temperature differences between day and night in Japan

There are other advantages to growing grapes in this region. These are the sunny weather rate and the temperature difference between day and night. Sakaki Town has a central highland inland basin climate with low precipitation throughout the year and one of the clearest weather rates in Japan. Low rainfall during the growing season reduces disease damage to wine grapes. The temperature difference between day and night averages more than 10°C per month. This temperature difference increases sugar and acid levels, which are important factors that enhance wine quality, such as depth of flavor and alcohol content.

Mr. Narisawa sensed the high potential of these excellent growing conditions, and he continued to communicate that “Sakaki Town is a good place to grow grapes for wine. This has been a major factor in the “Sakaki Winery Formation Project” being promoted by the town of Sakaki. In this project, the town has applied for a special zone to relax the minimum amount of vinification, establish a winery, allow local companies and individuals to participate in the project, and expand the area under cultivation. In the Chikuma Wine Valley in the Chikuma River basin in eastern Nagano Prefecture, which is said to be suitable for the cultivation of high-quality wine grapes, efforts are underway to make the town a particularly outstanding wine-producing region.

Taste of Wine in Reverse

Mr. Narisawa’s wine is made from Sakaki-machi grapes, which he considers to have all the right conditions. He says that his image of the taste he was aiming for was “backward calculation. Mr. Narisawa is now the representative of a winery, but his roots are in restaurant management. That is why he has always worked backwards from the food to make wines that go with it. The pursuit of taste that accompanies the meal, rather than the individuality of the wine itself. Because he has been involved in the restaurant business all his life, Mr. Narisawa takes pride in knowing more than most people about the necessity of wine to color the mealtime experience. Kaori Howard, who studied winemaking techniques for 12 years at Benziger Family Winery in Sonoma, California, has joined Sakaki Budoshu Brewery as the winemaker in charge of winemaking. She is one of those who, like Narisawa, is fascinated by the individuality of the wine grapes produced here and wants to develop her own wines so as not to waste their potential. With an emphasis on Sakaki Budoshu Brewery’s unique style, they aim for consistent quality and quantity, and their wines, which transcend logic and taste delicious, have received high acclaim, including a three-star rating at the Japan Winery Awards.

In particular, Sakaki Budoshu Brewery’s best “Vino della Gatta” is a wine worthy of being called a top cuvée. The number of bottles brewed is limited to about 100 a year, so it is not sold wholesale at all, and only one bottle per person can be purchased at the Sakaki Budoshu Brewery’s winery store. Of course, the taste is well worth it. The Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot harvested from the company’s own vineyards are blended according to the quality of the fruit, and the wine, which fully brings out the characteristics of the terroir, is as powerful as the best wines in the world. The wines have a firm body, yet the sharp, dry mouthfeel and rich fruitiness attract many people, many of whom travel from far and wide to taste this top cuvée.

Cats and their love for the region bring people together.

The wines produced at this winery have another trick to make people smile. It is the etiquet with a cat on it. The top cuvée is Mie Komatsu, a contemporary artist who has held many solo exhibitions in Japan and abroad and is highly acclaimed around the world since she attracted attention as a “too beautiful copperplate artist,” and the second cuvée is RONIN -GLOBUS The second cuvette will be created by OZ-Ogashira-Yamaguchi Keisuke, a painter and artist who has won the top prize at the “RONIN -GLOBUS – ARTIST IN RESIDENCE PROGRAM” held in New York. Both artists are from Nagano Prefecture, and in the case of Mr. Komatsu, he is based in Sakaki Town, where his winery is located. Because they are artists who know the local area well, they were able to convey the appeal of the wines produced here and create an original etiquette that leaves a lasting impression on those who see it. In addition, Mr. Narisawa has given cat-inspired names to almost everything related to his business, including his own restaurants Nekono Wine, LA GATTA, and Koumonoya Kitten, as well as his own vineyards named Tama, Kuro, and Tora. Of course, it all started with Mr. Narisawa’s love of cats, but his unique ideas happened to resonate with a wide range of generations and spread to cat lovers nationwide. The company’s image as a restaurant business had preceded it, but it quickly gained recognition as a winery.

Although not directly related to the taste of the wine, Mr. Narisawa hopes that such trivial details as the cat-painted etiquettes and the vineyard named after a cat will trigger an increase in interest in and visits to Sakaki Town, even if just a little. Although it was in Nagano City, the capital of Nagano Prefecture, that Mr. Narisawa opened his first restaurant after becoming independent, he has always been concerned about the lack of tourism resources in his hometown, Sakaki Town, and wished he could take action to help attract tourists to the area. In that sense, we aimed to create a place where people would come from outside, using a cat familiar to Japanese people as the image of the winery.

Starting in 2019, the winery is also organizing wine events in Sakaki Town in order to make wine permeate the town as a new culture and to establish fans of Sakaki wine. Step by step, Mr. Narisawa is actively taking action to enliven his beloved hometown with his beloved wine. I want to make Sakaki a major wine-producing area when I have grandchildren, and I want the people living in the area to be proud of that. We can’t leave anything out now to make that happen.” In his eyes, we can see such a scene several decades from now, when many people visit the matured vineyards and enjoy a meal with wine made from grapes harvested in the vineyards.

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It all started with Kikkoman’s wine division

Manns Wine Komoro Winery is located in Komoro City in eastern Nagano Prefecture. The winery boasts the largest site in Nagano Prefecture, with a company building, vineyards, a brewery, a store, and a 3,000-tsubo Japanese garden on a vast site.

Manns Wine, which started in Katsunuma, Yamanashi Prefecture in 1962, chose Komoro City as a candidate site for its next winery. The city’s low rainfall, long hours of sunshine, and well-drained soil are ideal for winemaking, and in recent years, the Chikumagawa River basin, including this area, has been called “Chikuma River Wine Valley” and is attracting attention as a major production area for high-quality Japanese wines.

Mann’s Wine had already recognized the potential of this land and built its second winery there in 1973, long before the area was called “Wine Valley” and was highly acclaimed by many wine lovers.

It is not surprising that Mann’s Wine started as the wine division of Kikkoman, a major soy sauce maker. The “Mann” in Manz is the “Mann” in Kikkoman. In addition, it is also named after the Latin word “manna,” which is a food given from heaven, as described in the Bible.

At a time when Japanese wines were not yet as good as those of Europe and other wine-producing countries, Mann’s Wine was born out of a desire among employees to help develop Japanese wines, since the company’s business was brewing.

In 1981, Manns Wine was born out of a desire to create an environment that would enable the production of stable, high-quality wines that could compete with the world’s best wines, since Mann’s Wine had delivered “consistent good taste at all times” to dining tables throughout Japan as a soy sauce manufacturer. In 1981, the company began planting Chardonnay in addition to the Zenkoji grape (Ryugan), an indigenous white wine grape variety that originated in Nagano Prefecture.

However, the variety had little experience in cultivation in a place with little familiarity with the land. At first, they had to go through a trial-and-error process. He devised an epoch-making cultivation method that protected the grapes from rain and harvested ripe grapes by covering the entire hedge with a roll-up plastic sheet, and in 1987, he applied for a patent as Mann’s Rain Cut Hedge Cultivation Method. The following year, just before the 1988 harvest, an unseasonably heavy snowfall caused most of the shelves at Zenkoji (Ryugan) to collapse, but the Raincutt hedge cultivation system escaped damage at this time. This was a turning point in the conversion to hedge cultivation and European varieties, and served as a major stepping stone for the later “Solaris” series.

Solaris” wine finally born in Nagano

Over the years, Manns Wine has established cultivation methods and pruning that take advantage of the region’s unique soil. Some have pointed out the handicap of the cold winters in this region, but Bordeaux in France, a region known for producing excellent wines, is actually a very rainy region, and is not suited for grape cultivation in the same way.

Nevertheless, the winery believes that it is only by continuing to find varieties that match the region and taking on the challenge that it will be able to produce wines of excellent quality, and it has been earnestly facing the challenge of making wines that are unique to Komoro. The Chardonnay vines on the winery’s own farm, which have grown along with the winery’s history, are now the oldest European varietal vines in the upper Chikumagawa River Wine Valley, and they produce a deep and complex flavor with a sense of full potential that has many connoisseurs in stitches.

In 2001, the ” Solaris ” series of premium domestic wines was born. The flagship wine, named after Mann’s Wine’s iconic sun-shaped logo, is the culmination of the company’s long history and has won awards at prestigious wine competitions, been selected for first-class flights on domestic airlines, and is highly acclaimed around the world, exceeding expectations. The company has won awards at prestigious wine competitions, and has been selected for first class travel on domestic airlines.

At the same time, the company has also taken on the challenge of producing wines with individuality. The company developed an original variety, Asama Merlot, by crossing Merlot with Asama, which was created through in-house crossbreeding of Zenkoji Ryugan and Chardonnay. The grapes are characterized by their small size, bright color, firm acidity, and moderate astringency, making them easy to pair with meals. Over the past half century, Mann’s wine has become a popular partner for daily meals. It has supported the development of Japanese wine. It is no exaggeration to say that Mann’s Wine has finally established its position as one of Japan’s leading winemakers.

Taking full advantage of its location in Komoro City, Mann’s Wine aims to ” make Japanese wine from Japanese grapes ” with quality on par with the world’s best wines. Just as Kikkoman’s soy sauce is used around the world, Mann’s Wine is also striving to produce “Japanese wine” that represents Japan and is loved around the world.

あわせて読みたい

Noble Rot Wine Recognized by the World “Goichi Wine” Grapes picked one by one with tweezers ”Goichi Wine” is a winery which is quietly drawing the attention of wine lovers all over the world. What spread their …

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Custom Crush Winery

In Europe it is more common, but in Japan, Custom Crush Winery is still very rare. A winery is contracted to make wine on behalf of multiple grape growers, so several different labels are made at one winery. One such winery, 10R (Toa-ru) only uses grapes from Hokkaido to create high quality wine. ”I learn so much from the grape vineyards. During the peak season, we all help each other out with the different tasks.” says the owner Gutlove. By combining the producers from the area and the skills of the winemaker, they create a wine culture that is unique and cannot be found elsewhere.

Maximizing the potential as a wine growing region

“Looking at it from a global perspective, producing wine in Hokkaido is unique considering the amount of snow. The issues we have to deal with each year includes 4 meters of snow and prolonging the life of a tree.” says Gutlove explaining the challenges. While blessed with nature and climate, they have to take measures against the cold winter. Wine making in Japan still involves very high production costs. Nakata suggests, ”An overnight visit in the area to enjoy local food and wine, that is the best way to enjoy Hokkaido.” ”I hope we can make that happen,” Gutlove also nods in agreement.

Wood vs. Steel casks – the apparent difference

The type of cask that is used depends on the variety of grape and the purpose. Wooden casks take in oxygen, allowing the wine to breathe and thus removing the tannin in red wine. Stainless steel vats are tightly sealed, and the wine will taste fresh and fruity without exposure to oxygen. We tried the Pinot Noir from 2013 when the climate was typical for Hokkaido. The wine from the wooden cask was ”smooth and easy to drink. This is suitable for the Japanese palate,” comments Nakata. The wine from the stainless steel was ”lighter tasting than the wooden cask. Very easy to drink.” He was able to experience the distinct difference for himself.

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Shimokita wine, born in northernmost Honshu

The exquisite Shimokita wine was born in Shimokita Peninsula, Aomori Prefecture. The red wine offers just the right weight with soft acidity, and the white wine has a fragrant fruity taste, making both quite popular. Shimokita wine is made by San Mamoru Winery.
　The grapes used for Sun Mamoru Winery’s Shimokita wine is grown in Shimokita. The grapes come from MK Vineyard located about two kilometers from the winery. Shimokita wine is produced 100% domestically.

Success achieved through repetitive trial and error

Most of the grapes used for wine are cultivated regions within the latitude range of north 30 to 50 degrees. At 41 degrees, Shimokita fits right in the middle of this range, commonly referred to as the wine belt. Unlike France or Germany, Japan has a lot of rain. However, Shimokita area does not have much rain during the rain season, so it can be said that within Japan, this area is the best land to cultivate wine. However, the biggest enemy is the snow. In an effort to address issues like the snow, the winery has been working closely with Dr. Tomio Shimura, an authority on wine grape cultivation since 1996.
　In 2006, after 10 years of trial and error, their efforts started to come to fruition when they successfully used the grapes grown by MK Vineyard to create Shimokita wine. Of course, they continue their efforts to improve and grow. They nurture the soil, and carefully select grapes cultivated using minimal pesticides while controlling the size of the harvest, all to create Shimokita Wine that can be enjoyed with peace of mind.

Color and Taste of Pinot Noir

Sun Mamoru Winery is famous for Pinot Noir wine. Pinot Noir grapes are a variety of wine grapes that grows in Burgundy, France, and it produces a red wine that has a beautiful ruby color. After touring the Pinot Noir vineyards, we were able to taste the wine. The first thing Nakata commented on was the “color” of the Pinot Noir wine. The color is so dense that you cannot see the other side. “Pinot Noir from the north doesn’t have such a strong color.” we were told. “The clay soil is good. That’s probably why we get this color. ” the president commented. When you take a sip, refreshing acidity spreads throughout your mouth. They say that their Pinot Noir wine is so popular that they sell out soon after it is released. Shimokita wine is a 100% domestic wine created from the passion of the growers.

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Double gold medal winning wine

The wine that won gold medals in the rosé class and the sparkling class at the 2013 Domestic Wine Competition were made here at Takahata Winery.
The gold winner of the rosé class “Takahata Classic Muscat Berry A” is a dry type rosé. It will go with any dish and is very popular. “Yoshi – Sparkling Chardonnay” won gold in the sparkling wine class. Sparkling wine is often something in which only the bubbles are enjoyed, but this sparkling wine has a refreshing sourness while having a firm taste.
Takahata Winery is located in the Okitama region in southern Yamagata Prefecture. It has the same geographical feature of a basin, same as the Kofu Basin in Yamanashi Prefecture which is also famous for its grapes. Because of this feature, the temperature difference between daytime and nighttime is big, making it suitable for grape cultivation. Takahata-machi is famous for its fresh grapes. At Takahata Winery, they grow their own grapes in addition to the grapes purchased from contracted farmers, and strive to improve the quality of the grapes themselves.

Chardonnay made the traditional way

We were shown the warehouse first. The interview was with Ken Murakami, President, and the brewing manager Hisayuki Kawanabe. The centerpiece of attention was the Chardonnay. It is one of the most famous breeds of grapes for wine, but in fact the taste of the ones produced in Japan are said to be greatly different from the ones overseas.
So we got to see the Chardonnay wine that is made by the traditional method of fermenting and aging in French oak casks. Kawanabe poured the wine directly from the cask, and handed the glass to Nakata. “It’s good.” Nakata said. “It tastes very formal.“ he added. “We could never make Chardonnay that tasted right. But we learned the traditional method and we got to this taste. It’s a pleasure to hear you say that.” commented Kawanabe.

What it means to enjoy wine

Another line of wine that requires attention at Takahata Winery is the wine made from the Pinot grapes. “For example, the Pinot Blanc” explained Kawanabe. “This is a wine that can take us from appetizer to the main course. The reason we wanted to make such wine is to suit the changes in eating habits and eating culture. If a couple goes out to have dinner, you will probably have just one bottle between the two. That’s why we wanted to make a wine that can take you through an entire meal.” Nakata tried the wine. It was not too edgy and smooth, yet there was some sharpness and some sense of minerals. It wasn’t too strong but mild, so that you can enjoy your meal while enjoying the wine itself. When Nakata asked Kawanabe “What kind of wine are you aiming at?” He answered “The textbook answer on how to squeeze juice from the grapes is to squeeze gently. However in reality, if you squeeze gently, the taste will remain in the squash. This is because the real taste is on the inside of the fruit skin. I think 80% of wine making is decided when you squeeze the juice. It’s all about how to get the most out of the fruit. Everything about studying yeast and bringing out taste through chemical reaction only comes after that. Kawanabe used to teach about wine brewing. And he talks about bringing out the taste of the raw materials and is convincing. Yes, the wine at Takahata Winery did make us taste the grapes.

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Wine representing Yamagata

This is a winery located in Kaminoyama, Yamagata Prefecture. There are so-called wineries that import wine in barrels, bottles them and puts them on the market, but here at Takeda Winery, grapes are grown on their own farm, and the wine is produced from those grapes. This is a true winery.
We interviewed Noriko Kishihira, President and Representative Director, and Grape Farming / Brewing Director. There were rows of grape hedges on the sunny slope. Japanese soil is rich, and when grape is grown, they tend to grow them on “shelves” while in Europe, where they have a lot of land, they grow them on hedges. Sometimes it is said that infertile land is better for growing wine grapes but Kishihira does not agree. “Saint-Emilion, famous for Bordeaux wine is actually a rich type of soil. The issue is not about the richness of the soil. It’s more an issue of balance, the existence of microbes, and how well you care for the field.

Taking care of the ingredients

Which is more important for good wine? Good material or ingredients or the technique? It seems that question was on Nakata’s mind, as he too, is a wine enthusiast. So he asked her that question directly.
“Of course both are important. But if I must choose, I’d say ingredients. You can’t make wine from bad grapes, but there are many instances of the reverse happening.“ As if to prove that point, at Takeda Winery, the 15-hectare grape field is divided into 26 sections, and soil is tested and analyzed from 20 spots within each section. Depending on the outcome of the tests, minerals are added. They also partially adopt biodynamics, and repeat trial and error in order to make good grapes.
Wine that is made with locally grown grapes, Yamagata wine made with Yamagata grapes. One of the famous wines made by Takeda Winery is named “Zao Star Wine” after Mount Zao in Yamagata. It is popular for its balanced and timeless taste that never gets boring. Other popular wines include Domaine Takeda and the premium brand Chateau Takeda.

There is philosophy to good wine

Most wineries use specialized yeast for fermentation, but at Takeda Winery, the fermentation is done with the natural yeast that is originally on the grapes. The fact they use wild yeast means that multiple types of yeast are involved in the fermentation. As the fermentation process progresses, at each stage a different yeast becomes dominant, and takes over the process. So the change in the yeast builds up various layers of flavor. Of course, this complicates the fermentation process, but they work with wild yeast in pursuit of great taste.
There are both traditional and new methods in wine making. So by updating knowledge day by day, the level of skill certainly changes. “However,” said Kishihira, “the biggest element here is the philosophical issue. I think wine made by someone who has a clear vision of the type of wine they want to make is always more interesting, more moving.”

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