Aomori Prefecture boasts four fishing grounds: the Sea of Japan, the Pacific Ocean, the Tsugaru Strait, and Mutsu Bay. In Aomori City, located at its center, Takashi Shioya, the fifth-generation owner of the fresh fish wholesale and retail shop “Shioya Fish Shop,” and his son Naoki use advanced techniques like nerve-pinching to deliver fish tailored to the specific requests of each chef, both within and outside the prefecture.Underlying their work is a strong desire to halt the decline of the fishing industry and repay the fishermen for their contributions.

Delivering Aomori’s prized fish at the highest quality

Surrounded by sea on three sides, Aomori Prefecture is a treasure trove of seafood, boasting four distinct fishing grounds: the Sea of Japan coast, the Tsugaru Strait, the Pacific coast, and the inland Mutsu Bay. Off the Sea of Japan coast, the Tsushima Warm Current flows northward; part of it enters the Tsugaru Strait, becoming the Tsugaru Warm Current, and then flows out toward the Pacific.The Tsugaru Warm Current collides with the Oyashio Current from the north and the Kuroshio Current from the south off the coast of Hachinohe. Diverse fishing methods are employed across Aomori’s various fishing grounds, where fishermen, facing the sea, use techniques passed down through generations to land high-quality seafood.

It is Aomori City’s fish wholesaler and retailer, Shioya Fish Shop, that transforms these bountiful gifts from Aomori’s sea into the highest quality products for chefs and consumers, using extensive knowledge, advanced techniques, and above all, a passionate dedication.Takashi Shiotani, the fifth-generation owner running the shop, also serves as the representative of the “Hama no Shigoto-nin: Northern Japan Nerve-Stopping Association.” This association, founded by Takashi, is an organization formed by fisheries professionals engaged in nerve-stopping techniques across Aomori, Hokkaido, Iwate, Miyagi, and other prefectures. Nerve-stopping is a technique that delays rigor mortis in fish after death to preserve freshness. This allows high-freshness fish to be delivered even to distant locations.

Transforming frustration into strength: The journey to nerve-pinning

Takashi’s motivation to pursue nerve-pinning began when he heard people in western Japan, far from Aomori, say, “Fish from Aomori are poor in freshness and not tasty.”Shioya Fish Shop, started in 1933 (Showa 8) by four fishmongers, primarily served local restaurants and hotels when Takashi joined. Wanting “people outside the prefecture to taste delicious Aomori fish,” Takashi challenged nationwide distribution in his mid-40s. However, long-distance transport took time, leading him to hear those words again.

“Is there no way to deliver Aomori fish nationwide while keeping it fresh?” Fueled by frustration, he studied and researched relentlessly, eventually arriving at nerve-pinching. Furthermore, alongside his son Naoki, he visited fishermen in coastal villages like Sai Village and Fukaura Town within the prefecture, dedicating effort to sharing knowledge and techniques directly at the fishing sites.Since the condition of the fish at the moment of killing directly impacts its flavor, it became crucial for fishermen to catch fish in optimal condition and perform proper processing. To unite stakeholders in pursuing excellence, they established the “Hama no Shigoto-nin: Northern Japan Nerve-Striking Association” to create opportunities for information exchange and skill improvement. At its founding, nerve-striking professionals from places like Ehime and Kanagawa came to provide lectures.Many fishermen, moved by the passion of the Shioya father and son, have united their efforts with them.

Crafting Custom-Made Fish as One Team

Utilizing techniques evolved into a unique style, the fish crafted by Aomori fishermen and Shioya Fish Shop as one team now attracts attention from renowned chefs nationwide.Because the fish delivered meet or exceed expectations. When an order comes in, Shiotani Fish Shop explains to trusted fishermen: “We want fish like this.” The fishermen then determine the best approach for each request—whether to kill the fish onboard, send them live, or prepare the fish tanks optimally.The fish delivered this way undergoes meticulous management at Shioya Fish Shop. They consider everything down to what the fish ate, selecting the appropriate processing method, such as nerve-pinning. This collaboration between two professional teams enables Shioya Fish Shop to create what they value most: “custom-made fish tailored to each individual customer.”

“We want customers to feel satisfaction beyond the price, just like wearing a perfectly tailored suit,” says Takashi. “Each chef prioritizes different elements—whether texture or aroma. We deeply understand each fish’s individuality, calculating even the optimal cooking timing to meet their requests. Creating fish that tastes absolutely delicious the moment it hits the palate—that’s what making custom-made fish means. Nerve-pinching is just one of the methods to achieve that.”

Shioya’s Nerve-Cutting: Adapting the Process Based on Species, Condition, and Requests

Nerve-pinning involves destroying the spinal cord. Typically, it combines two processes: destroying the brain (known as brain destruction) and bleeding out the fish. Takashi excels by determining whether to prioritize brain destruction or bleeding based on the type and condition of the delivered fish and the customer’s request, thereby adjusting the flavor and freshness. “With brain destruction priority, we destroy the brain and perform nerve-pinning before bleeding, leaving some blood in the fish.”Leaving some blood actually enhances the aroma and umami. So for customers who plan to use the fish immediately upon delivery, we prioritize brain destruction. On the other hand, bloodletting-priority is a technique focused specifically on draining blood. Since residual blood accelerates deterioration of the flesh, we use this method for customers who won’t cook it right away, like those who want to age it,” explains Naoki. He demonstrates brain destruction, a craftsmanship skill passed down directly from Takashi.

Nerve pinning involves severing the spinal cord nerves with a wire. Since nerve locations vary by fish species, it relies on experience and intuition—a true artisan skill. “The wire is coiled, so it wraps around the nerves,” Naoki explains. Removing the nerves causes the color to drain instantly in fresh fish. This also serves as an indicator of the fish’s quality.

While bleeding methods vary, Mr. Shiotani’s approach relies solely on the fish’s own heartbeat. Here too, the fish’s vitality is crucial. With a lively fish, thorough internal chilling allows nearly all blood to drain within about 10 minutes, resulting in a translucent finish.

Regardless of the processing method, the fish must be in excellent condition as a prerequisite. “We get to work with fish that fishermen meticulously manage, allowing us to pursue even higher standards. Our work exists because of the fishermen,” both Takashi and Naoki express their gratitude.

Raising fish prices to halt the decline of fisheries and preserve culinary culture

“We want to produce fish that can compete nationwide. Fish worthy of recognition by chefs featured in the Michelin Guide.” While Takashi initially held such dreams, his desire to “repay the fishermen” gradually grew stronger.”I learned so much from the fishermen, and the work I do now is only possible because of the fishermen who walk alongside me. It’s my turn to repay the debt,” says Takashi. He feels the dwindling fish stocks firsthand and shares a sense of crisis.

“When I go to the beach, I often hear sad stories about sons wanting to take over the family business, but their parents can’t afford to feed them if there’s no catch, so they have to give up. I’ll say it again: our livelihood depends entirely on the local fishermen.We’re sustained by them. Plus, the local fish-eating culture could vanish. So what can we do? We have to raise fish prices. We especially need to lift the rock-bottom prices,” Takashi believes. “To achieve that, I want to spread the knowledge and techniques I’ve gained throughout the entire prefecture, raising the value of fish county-wide.”

If fishermen can continue their work under good conditions for generations, Naoki’s generation will also be able to carry on this profession. Furthermore, they can preserve the food culture passed down from their predecessors. This is the future Takashi envisions. “Ultimately, it’s about people enjoying delicious Aomori fish. I want to keep delivering fish that people will crave again and again to as many people as possible.”

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Farmed eel that tastes better than natural eel approved by professionals.

Natural eel tastes better than farm-raised eel. Not only eels, but many people may have such an assumption. It is true that only about 3% of all natural eels are sold in the market. This is probably due to its rarity. However, there is a “Taido Shoten” farmed eel in Kagoshima, which is said by eel professionals all over the country to be “better than natural eel”.

Eel is one of the foods that have been familiar to the people since ancient times, and the history of eel farming dates back to the Meiji period (1868-1912), starting in Fukagawa, Tokyo. However, the ecology of the Japanese eel, especially its spawning grounds, has long been a mystery, and only in 2009 was the spawning ground identified as being near the West Mariana Sea territory in the Pacific Ocean, 200 km from Japan. After hatching from eggs and becoming fry, they migrate to the Pacific Ocean, metamorphose into fry, and head for the waters around East Asia.

These fry are called “glass eels,” and in Japan they migrate up rivers in Kagoshima, Miyazaki, Kochi, Shizuoka, and other areas. This is why eel farming began to flourish in Kagoshima Prefecture around 1965. Currently, the prefecture ranks first in Japan in terms of eel production. It accounts for 40% of the domestic share of farmed eels. Among them, Soo County, located on the east side of the Osumi Peninsula, is the top producer in the prefecture. In the scenic countryside of Osaki Town, Soo County, there is Taido Shoten, which is supported by famous eel restaurants nationwide. Taido Shoten is a distributor that delivers the eel it grows to chefs and customers all over the country. In the warehouse, selected and prized eels were waiting to be shipped.

The secret of brand-name eels lies in the groundwater.

The reason why eel farming is prosperous in Shibushi is that eel fry (baby eels) are often caught in the sea around here. In addition, the abundance and cleanness of the water and the climate also have an influence. We have the best environment for raising eels,” said Keiichi Yokoyama, representative of Taido Shoten.
The abundant groundwater is filtered for many years by the Shirasu earth from the Kirishima mountain range. The reason why the eel selected by Taido Shoten is free from any odor or bad taste is because of this water. With safety and security as their motto, they do not use any feed containing antibiotics and carefully select only those eels that have been carefully raised according to their growth.

There have been some brand-name eels in the past, but they were rarely sold directly by the producer or communicated with the chef. But that would mean that even if we produced really good products, they would not be properly evaluated. That’s why I wanted to create a form of sales where I could see the product from start to finish.

There is no reason why eels raised carefully by thoroughly controlling water temperature and water quality 24 hours a day, 365 days a year should not be delicious. It is worth trying Taido Shoten’s eel, which natural eels run away with their tails between their legs.

NIHONMONO – 「にほん」の「ほんも…

国内で唯一幻の品種を養豚している牧場 ふくどめ小牧場/ 鹿児島県鹿屋市 – NIHONMONO 国内にはここにしかないとも言われる希少な品種を扱う養豚から、本場ドイツで修業した職人によるこだわりの食肉加工、そして食卓に届ける販売までを一貫して手掛けるふくど…

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Out to sea with the sunrise

Of course fishing starts early in the morning. We accompanied the harvesting of cultivated ”wakame”.
”Wakame does not like sun. To keep the quality, we have to harvest between 1 am to sunrise.” said Atsuo Kitada who works at Omoe Fisheries Cooperative Association. In addition to that, they harvest during this time because the ocean is relatively calm.
Nakata joined the men in harvesting cultivated ”wakame” as soon as the sun was up. It is of course dark all around. But the day had already began for ”wakame” fishermen.

Challenging the ”wakame” harvest

Iwate prefecture is famous for cultivating ”wakame”, Currently, the total production of ”wakame” in Japan is about 60,000 tons. Within the Sanriku area, Iwate prefecture produces 25,000 tons, Miyagi prefecture produces 15,000 tons, a total of 40,000 tons, making Iwate prefecture the number one in ”wakame” production in Japan. Of that, Omoe produces 3000 tons. Every year during June to August, they put the natural seedling of ”mekabu” seaweed on a jute rope and let it grow in the sea. In November they wrap the jute rope around a thicker rope. In January and February the water from melted snow goes into the sea, and the ”wakame” grows quickly. In general, they harvest in March. ”Wakame” is an annual plant so they harvest everything by the middle of April.
Omoe peninsula is at the most eastern spot of Honshu. The characteristic of the ”wakame” from this region is the thickness. Omoe is facing the outer ocean so the tide is very fast, and the ”wakame” is massaged by the tide making it exceptionally thick. They sell it under the ”thick wakame” branding.
The tool they use for harvesting are sickles. As the word suggests, they literary harvest the seaweed from the cultivating ground. Nakata was handed a sickle to help with the harvest. This in fact is a quite hard labor. Of course when we went to interview in spring the wakame was fully grown.

”Wakame” in the warm tide. ”Kombu” in the cold tide.

When the boatful of harvested ”wakame” is brought to shore, the first thing that they need to do is to boil it in sea water. And then they are pickled in salt for preservation. The day only ends after going through these processes. When the season for ”wakame” ends, the ”kombu” season starts, providing work throughout the year.
”Wakame” is a seaweed that grows in warm tidal water while ”kombu” grows in cold tidal water. Kitada told us that the characteristic of the sea of Omoe is that both can grow well.
Furthermore, Omoe Fisheries Cooperative produces a brand of ”wakame” called ”First Spring”. This is young ”wakame” harvested early in the season between January to February. It is high in nutrition and tender, so it is delicious in ”raw wakame shabu shabu”.

Everyone in the family participates in ”wakame” cultivation

Omoe peninsula was hit hard by the Great East Japan Earthquake. They showed us the scars of the tsunami that remains on the rocks on the beach. However, in the midst of the huge damage, during the early days following the earthquake, people chipped in and purchased and repaired a boat. By the end of May, they were able to harvest wild ”wakame”. Furthermore, they fixed the cultivating facility and processing factory, and 129 of the 181 people who worked there have returned to their jobs.
For most families who cultivate ”wakame”, the whole family is involved in the business. As described earlier, it is hard labor for the elderly, but the young people have also joined in. Junichi Nakamura who worked with us harvesting ”wakame” told us, ”Many young people are returning home from the cities.”
Nakata asked, ”What is the reason that growing ”wakame” is so popular and why are there many young people here?” Kitada replied ”We have jobs here, and we have an environment for them to work.”
The wealth of the ocean and the power of people. They support the ”wakame” of Iwate.

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The importance of the buyers – saury professionals

The fishing industry of Miyagi is No. 2 in Japan, following Hokkaido. There are many famous fishing ports such as Ishinomaki and Kesennuma, and these ports provide us with many kinds of seafood.

On this occasion, we visited Onagawa fishing market. The specialty of Onagawa is, needless to say, saury, a seasonal delicacy of fall. Other fishing ports of Miyagi have different specialties; Kesennuma is famous for pole-and-line bonito, Ishinomaki offers a wide variety of fish caught using ground haul netting, and Shiogama has large landings of tuna, caught in the nearby sea. The fishing boats arrive at the ports, and the fish is sold to the buyers via the fish market. In every fishing port, there are buyers who specialize in each kind of fish.

”Onagawa buys at the highest price”, a fisherman told me. The buyers at Onagawa purchase at higher prices than other fishing ports. So most of the saury fishing boats head for Onagawa. Of course, the buyers at Onagawa are very strict connoisseurs of saury. Each fishing boat tries their best to land the freshest fish, so Onagawa has the best quality of saury. Onagawa ranks among the top 3 in saury landings in the nation.

Gradually adding facilities after the natural disaster

Onagawa used to be a very big fish market, with sales of 17 billion yen per year, but sales gradually declined as eating habits of the Japanese changed. Fish was not being consumed as much, and this had a serious effect on sales. On top of that the Great East Japan Earthquake happened, greatly impacting Onagawa.
According to Kato, the senior managing director of Onagawa Fish Market, who showed us around, ”we lost everything”.
After the disaster, the market reopened somehow, and the fish landings have resumed little by little. However, what was most needed was the refrigerating facilities. Only 30% of the fish landed at Onagawa Port is shipped to other ports as fresh fish. The remaining 70% must be kept frozen for later processing. Therefore large capacity refrigeration system is absolutely essential.
The town was hard hit by the quake, and lost the refrigerating facilities, and landings had to be limited in 2011.

At the time of the visit, the facilities were being re-built little by little. There was construction to build the biggest pier. In October 2012, a large storage facility was built with support from Qatar.
We were shown the brand new facility, and noticed that it was designed to serve as a shelter in case of an emergency, based on lessons learned from the tsunami. Most importantly, the facility was designed to protect lives, so that people can work safely in the coastal areas.

The most delicious way to eat saury fish

“We were able to reopen thanks to the support from all around the nation. We are ever so grateful. But, you know, the best support is having consumers enjoy our fish.” said Kato. So Nakata asked, ”what’s the most delicious way to eat saury?”. ”Sashimi”, he replied.
””Sashimi ”is definitely the best. The fish is so fresh. It tastes better than tuna ”sashimi”! Also, you can chop it in small pieces and mix with green onion and ”miso”, that’s delicious too.”
Hearing him talk made our mouths water. The most basic dish may be grilled saury, and that’s good too, but minced fish balls in soup is also a favorite of the locals. The season for saury runs from early September till late November. There are many people waiting for this delicacy Onagawa is so proud of.

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Out to sea, early in the morning.

It was before six o’clock. The sun hadn’t yet risen, but Nakata was on a boat. He was out at sea early in the morning to experience ”nori” harvesting with Futoshi Aizawa a ”nori” farmer.
Just like tea harvesting, there is first flush, second flush and third flush of ”nori” harvesting. We were taken to the first flush harvesting. We knew it would be cold, so we were prepared, but it was so very cold. ”It not that cold today.” laughed Aizawa (the interview took place in late November). At the height of the harvesting season in January to February, the temperature goes down to minus 8 degrees Celsius. It made us shiver just thinking of such cold temperatures.
Harvesting began in these cold conditions. When the rafts were pulled out of the water, the nets were totally covered with black ”nori”. The nets are fed into harvesting machines. One raft consists of six nets that are 2 meters wide and 20 meters long. Aizawa and his team managed 300 rafts.

“Nori” fit to be presented to the Emperor

Aizawa’s ”nori” farm is in Omagarihama, Higashi Matsushima-shi. Omagarihama’s ”nori” is valued as the ”nori” of highest quality. It was honored as the ”Nori presented to the Imperial Family” at contests held in Shiwahiko Shrine and Shiogama Shrine for 6 consecutive years until 2011.

Restoring seaweed farming after the earthquake disaster

However, everything was lost with the Great East Japan Earthquake. Everything that was build up over many years was lost – the lives of fellow workers, houses, facilities and much more. Many fishermen quit ”nori” farming. But Aizawa did not give up. He began to search for a way to rebuild soon after the disaster, and after one year, he began to made headway. It was just a few days before our visit that he was able to harvest for the first time since the disaster.
He used to work as a ”team”, but now Aizawa and two colleagues are working as a cooperative group.
”But in the future, we hope to be working as rivals again.” said Aizawa.

All you need is rice and “nori”.

During our visit, the harvesting continued non-stop. Nakata helped. When the harvesting was finally over, Nakata asked ”what sort of ”nori” are you aiming for?”. Aizawa answered, ”something that is so delicious that all you need is ”nori” and rice as a meal.”

”The most delicious ”nori” is the one straight out of the sea and dried. When lightly toasted, it smells absolutely delicious and goes very well with steamed rice.”, he said, and he took a sheet of ”nori” he had just processed the day before, and roasted it over the stove. A savory aroma filled the air, and when placed into the mouth, it melted smoothly away. It had a very fresh taste. And the broth made of raw ”nori”, which can only be enjoyed at the beach, tasted fresh too. It was a luxury, with just a drop of soy sauce.

Bringing Omagari seaweed to more people

Aizawa shared his resolution.
”We have resumed ”nori” farming, but that’s not enough. We want to reestablish awareness for Omagari ”nori”. So we need to keep on making delicious ”nori”.”

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The sea where baby oysters grow

Oysters are the fruit of the Sea of Sanriku. And Mangokuura in Ishinomaki-shi is the center of oyster production. We visited Suenaga Kaisan Co., Ltd. During our visit, we had visited Shin Hatakeyama in Kesennuma. The oysters he was cultivating were for shipping, the ones that are consumed in homes. Suenaga Kaisan also makes oysters for shipping as well as processed oysters, but most importantly, they cultivate ”seed oysters (baby oysters)”.
Seed oysters are babies of cultured oysters. There are only a few seas in the world where seed oysters are available. Mangokuura is one of them. The seed oysters grown in Mangokuura are shipped not only within Japan, but to France and the US where they are cultured.

What are seed oysters?

Can you imagine what seed oysters look like? We couldn’t, so we asked Kanji Suenaga president and representative director of Suenaga Kaisan.
First, about 50 scallop shells are attached to a rope. During the spawning season of oysters in July, the ropes are lowered into the sea so that the oyster eggs floating in the sea will stick to the scallop shells and begin to grow there. After about three months, they are thinned to leave only good oysters, and are lowered into the sea again to grow. Finally, the seed oysters are ready.

The seed oysters are then shipped to the oyster farmers, where the farmers will hang the oyster beds from the rafts in the sea allowing them to fully grow for shipping. For a detailed description of cultivation rafts, please refer to the article about Hatakeyama in Kesennuma. According to Hatakeyama, Suenaga Kaisan （水産ではなく海産のはず） is a master of seed oyster culture.
Cultivating seed oysters by using scallop shells to draw the floating oyster eggs. It definitely requires being in tune with nature.
”Oyster farmers, just like fishermen, don’t work according to the calendar, but the waxing and waning of the moon, the lunar calendar. Tides of the sea are important.”, said Suenaga.

Sanriku Coast was too blessed.

Suenaga told us an interesting story. The legend has it that the oysters of this area were brought by tortoises carrying them on their backs. The coastal area of Sanriku has been blessed with so much from the sea that such a legend was born.

”Sanriku is so rich in marine products. We can do anything. If we can’t succeed with oysters, we can try ”wakame” farming. If ”wakame” isn’t successful, then we can try ”hoya”. It doesn’t work like that in the other coastal areas of Miyagi. Either the waves are too rough, or the sea is too shallow. You cannot farm if the sea is too shallow. Sanriku has a deeply indented rias coastline, where the sea is deep and suitable for marine farming.” said Suenaga. ”But,” he continued,
”I think we were too blessed. Everything was easy. We could live off the blessings of the sea. We didn’t try to move ahead. When the fishing industry in general began to decline, we couldn’t keep up with it. That’s why we are now concentrating on food processing as well.”

The seed oysters of Mangokuura miraculously survived the devastating Great East Japan Earthquake in 2011.
One of his goals is to build a stable industry in addition to oyster farming. Suenaga was already on his way to his next challenge.

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Oysters are a specialty of spring!?

The taste of fresh oysters is a milky flavor that melts in your mouth. You can also enjoy them in hot pot which warms the body. In winter, one longs for oyster dishes. It is generally thought that oysters are a specialty of winter. Actually, the season for oysters is spring, Shin Hatakeyama, the oyster farmer told us.
”In spring, planktons increase in the sea, and the oysters that feed on them are the most delicious.” The oysters of Miyagi are somewhat smaller than the oysters of Hiroshima, so they are suited to be eaten fresh. The oysters of Miyagi have a rich taste and intense flavor.

Oysters nurtured in the sea

Hatakeyama took us on his small boat, and showed us the farm. It was quite close to the coastline within a bay, yet the sea was 20 meters deep. In the water, there were huge wooden rafts about 15 square meters each. Underneath the rafts hung many ropes with a huge amount of oyster shells attached to them. These oyster shells are beds for baby oysters. There are approximately 300 seed oysters attached to a rope, and the oysters grow in the sea, eating plankton.
”We put the seed oysters in the sea in spring, and we ship them in the fall or winter of the following year. In the second spring, we pull up all the ropes, place the oysters in a hot water bath, so that nothing else grows on them. It’s just like weeding the field. Apart from that, we just leave them in the sea. It takes about two years from seed oysters until shipping.”
Oysters in a hot water bath! That was surprising. Of about 300 seed oysters, only 100 to 150 oysters grow big enough to be shipped.

Sanriku Bay is a perfect place for oyster farming

We were out on the ocean, but the boat did not rock very much. The calm sea within the bay makes it suitable for oyster farming. ”Miyagi has an active oyster farming industry because of the calm sea. ” explained Hatakeyama. For a industry to take root in the region, nature has great influence.

After the Quake.

The Moune area in Kesennuma-shi where Hatakeyama has his farm, was also hard hit by the Tsunami. The 70 farming rafts and boats he owned were all washed away. It was so devastating that the number of oyster farmers was reduced to less than half. But the seed oysters of Mangokuura in Ishinomaki survived. That left great hope for reconstruction. ”If the seed oysters had been washed away too, the oyster industry of Miyagi would have been totally finished.”he said.
He has now resumed oyster farming, working together with locals as a cooperative. He is now harvesting and shipping oysters.

Revival with oysters

”We have restarted, but I think it’s still far from reconstruction. My goal is to develop processed products such as smoked oysters that can be sold year round and at a stable price. I want it to be another pillar of our business. I listen to the opinions of not only the local people but also foreigners to develop various new products.”
He has set up a non-profit organization called Peace Nature Labo for the development of new processed food products, and he is also committed to planning the rebuilding of the local community. His aim is not just rebuilding the ways of life before the disaster, but to develop further beyond.

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Tokyo Bay at sunrise

Nakata goes on board a fishing boat just as the sun rises in Tokyo Bay. When we requested an interview with Yoshiyuki Saida, a conger eel fisherman belonging to Yokohama Fishermen’s Union Shiba Branch, he invited us to go fishing with him. Saida employs a method called ”tsusu-ryo” to catch the eels. He inserts feed such as sardines and squid into a grey tube then sinks them to the bottom of the ocean, and the eels are drawn to the smell of the feed. On the boat, Nakata helped pull the tubes up from the ocean.
In order to preserve the environment, the fishing gear have small holes in them to avoid catching the smaller eels. A surprising number of eels are caught even with the holes.
”How do you choose where to set the traps?” Nakata asked a basic question.
”I check the size and the number of eels caught and plan the next location. I make a prediction based on everyday experience,” Saida told us.
By the time they have retrieved all the traps, the sun had risen high up in the sky.

The appeal of being a fishermen

”What do you like about being a fisherman?” asked Nakata. ”I’m the most excited when I catch fish where I set the trap based on my experience.” ”There are times I don’t catch any fish at all, and it feels like failing a test. But I like the ocean, so just being on the boat makes me happy. That’s what I like the most.” he told us as he looked out to the sea.
Saida was born in a fishing town where he grew up around boats. He would ride a small motorboat and race with friends. At any rate, he grew up surrounded by the ocean.
”Even if you run into problems and get stuck out at sea, people all come to your rescue because they all grew up around the same harbor.”

Hot and fluffy ”shiroyaki”

As soon as they go ashore, ”We’ll get these eels grilled into a ’shiroyaki’ right away,” Saida said as he cut the eel. The skin glistens golden and the meat is beautifully white. He handed the meat to Nakata. ”It’s soft!” Nakata is surprised. Freshly cut eel is soft. According to Saida, eel from Tokyo Bay is especially soft.
We immediately have the eel grilled into ”shiroyaki” and took a bite. The eel fresh from the grill was hot and fluffy. ”The texture is entirely different from fresh water eel but it’s still very good,” commented Nakata looking quite satisfied.
Saida’s eels are served at NPO ”Community Cafe Sakura Chaya” and other local eateries, and are served as ”shiroyaki” or ”anago-don.” We highly recommend you give Tokyo Bay conger eel dishes a try.

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Gifts from the sea in the San’in region

What comes to your mind as winter seafood?
Oyster, yellowtail, monkfish, or puffer fish? They are typical winter food and ingredients of very popular hot pot. There is another important seafood in winter: Matsuba crab. Hyogo boasts Japan’s largest catch of Matsuba crab in terms of volume and value.

Origin of Matsuba Crab

Matsuba crab is generally called ”zuwai-gani” in Japan. The name is specific to the San’in region spreading from Shimane to Kyoto. The male crab caught in the Sea of Japan has been called ”Matsuba crab” since the olden days.

Crowded market

Nakata visited the market on a nice spring day in March. The fishing season for Matsuba crabs is from November 6 to March 20. The season was almost finished. Unfortunately, we could not get on a boat to have a look the actual fishing. However, we visited the market to see an auction of unloaded crabs.
”Matsuba” (matsuba means pine leaf in Japanese) crab is said to have been named after the long thin legs that look like pine leaves. Numerous crabs were placed with the belly up on the floor of the market. The bidding went fast, which itself was rather overwhelming. When all the deals were done, crabs were carried to restaurants and processing plants all over Japan.
You can visit auctions operated by Tajima Fishery Cooperative and Hamasaka-cho Fishery Cooperatives. Visitors can purchase crabs directly from the fishery cooperatives. Come to discover the vigorous market auction and Matsuba crabs.

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