Kikuzakari Brewery, located in Kitakami City, Iwate Prefecture, produces many distinctive sake varieties, including its flagship brand, “Taxi Driver.” Takuya Fujimura, the brewery’s owner, took over as the fifth-generation head at the age of 30. While overcoming the hardships of the Great East Japan Earthquake, he steered the brewery toward becoming Iwate Prefecture’s first “all-junmai sake brewery,” using only rice grown in Iwate Prefecture. Each of these choices has shaped the unique character of Kikuzakari Brewery today.

Born as the fifth-generation head of a sake brewery, he became president at the age of 30.

Kitakami City is located in central Iwate Prefecture, where the Kitakami and Waga Rivers converge in a fertile basin dotted with rolling countryside. At the northern tip of the city stands Kikuzakari Sake Brewery Co., Ltd., which was founded in 1894 as Fujimura Sake Brewery. Following the consolidation and restructuring of sake breweries under wartime regulations, the company adopted its current name in 1951. Since then, it has continued to brew sake deeply rooted in the local community under brands such as “Kikuzakari” and “Onikenbai.”

“The heyday was during my grandfather’s time—he was the third-generation owner—and in the 1970s, we were producing approximately 4,000 koku (equivalent to 400,000 one-shō bottles) of sake annually. Since local consumption accounted for over 90 percent of sales, it seems we mainly produced everyday standard sake. My grandfather also served as chairman of the local tourism association, so he created various sake brands inspired by the region, such as ‘Onikenbai’ and ‘Shishi Odori’—traditional performing arts of the area—as well as the local song ‘Kitakami Yakyoku.’ There was also a soy sauce brewery on the same grounds, and with so many people working there, it was a bustling place.”

These are the reflections of Takuya Fujimura, the fifth-generation head of Kikuzakari Sake Brewery. He explains that ever since he was old enough to understand, he had always been aware that he would one day take over this brewery, which has been preserved by the Fujimura family for generations since its founding in the mid-Meiji period. “Until then, I wanted to do what I loved,” he says. After graduating from high school, he left his hometown, attended a vocational school, and worked as a game designer at a game development company in Tokyo. However, he returned home when his father—the fourth-generation head of the brewery—fell ill. Three years later, following his father’s passing, he assumed the position of president of Kikuzakari Sake Brewery. It was February 2003, and he was 30 years old.

“Make a sake that the owner of a yakitori restaurant would like.”

When Mr. Fujimura took over the brewery, the world was in the midst of a boom in authentic shochu. Meanwhile, sake consumption had been on a steady decline since peaking in 1974. Kikuzakari Sake Brewery was also affected by this trend; “By the time I became president, production had fallen to 500 koku,” he recalls. How could he preserve this brewery, which had lost its former vitality? The guiding principle that helped Mr. Fujimura find his way was his grandfather’s advice: “Make sake that the owner of a yakitori restaurant prefers, rather than sake that’s highly rated by judges at tasting competitions.”

“Apparently, that was something my grandfather often told his employees back when he ran the brewery. For him, ‘good sake’ meant the kind of sake that’s enjoyed in bars—what you might call a ‘meal-accompanying sake.’ So I decided to follow in his footsteps while crafting good sake through my own interpretation,” he explains.

To that end, the first step he took was to reevaluate the brewery’s approach to sake production. At the time, Kikuzakari Sake Brewery was also producing “Sanbai Zōjōshu*”—a type of sake diluted with water and brewing alcohol to increase volume—but as soon as Mr. Fujimura assumed the presidency, he discontinued its production and shifted the brewery’s focus to “Junmai-shu,” made exclusively from rice, rice koji, and water.

“I don’t want to compete on price; I want to deliver sake that I personally believe is good.” Driven by this desire, Mr. Fujimura began to think, “I want to create a new brand that reflects my own values and preferences.”

*A brewing method introduced to address postwar rice shortages, with the aim of producing more sake using less rice. Due to the 2006 amendment to the Sake Tax Act, this method is now effectively impossible.

“Remixing” various cultures. Taxi Driver marked his breakthrough.

Mr. Fujimura has an unconventional background as a former game designer and has also been active as an amateur martial artist. He has also long been a fan of niche subcultures such as music, movies, and manga. Given this background, for the first release of the new brand, he commissioned Kei Nemoto—a manga artist he deeply admires—to name the sake, and Takashi Uechi, a graphic designer known for his many pro-wrestling T-shirt designs, to create the label design. In 2004, the junmai daiginjo sake “Denki Bosatsu” was born.

Then, the following year, “Taxi Driver”—the brand that now represents Kikuzakari Sake Brewery—was born.

“It all started when I had a drink with art director Yoshiki Takahashi in Shinjuku, Tokyo. Since Mr. Takahashi had designed the packaging for some of my favorite movies, we hit it off right away. The conversation got lively as we discussed, ‘Let’s come up with a new sake brand,’ and ‘Taxi Driver’ was one of the many ideas that came up. We felt this could actually work, so we decided on the spot to bring it to market, and Mr. Takahashi agreed to design the label.”

When brewing “Taxi Driver,” Mr. Takahashi’s request was for “a sake that tastes good when served hot.”

“Sakes from Kikuzakari Brewery are known as dining sakes characterized by a robust umami and crisp acidity. They’re naturally well-suited for serving hot. So I thought we could create a sake that met his request without needing to make any special adjustments,” says Mr. Fujimura. Reflecting Mr. Fujimura’s own preference for “rich sake with a high alcohol content,” the sake was brewed as “junmai genshu”—pressed and bottled straight from the press without adding water to adjust the flavor. The result is a robust flavor that holds its own against the striking impact of the label design created exclusively by Mr. Takahashi.

Since then, Kikuzakari Sake Brewery has continued to collaborate with various creators, releasing sake with unique names and labels as the “Jacket Buy Series.” This “remix” of sake with different fields—such as music and video games—has also attracted the interest of people who don’t usually drink sake.

Affected by the Great East Japan Earthquake. While renting space in a brewery, they transitioned to a “100% Junmai Brewery.”

Kikuzakari Sake Brewery had been expanding its customer base by focusing on the production of junmai sake while also developing products and promotional campaigns that incorporated elements from other cultural fields. However, the company suffered a major blow from the Great East Japan Earthquake that struck in March 2011. Although Kitakami City is inland and thus escaped tsunami damage, the building was struck directly by a long, intense tremor. Fortunately, both the employees and the sake that had just been brewed were unharmed, but the brewery was left half-destroyed.

“When you factor in the completely destroyed soy sauce warehouse and other structures, the scale of the damage was immense. After receiving estimates from contractors, we realized that whether we repaired the building or demolished and rebuilt it, the costs would be astronomical. As the fifth-generation head of the Fujimura family, I couldn’t let this brewery—which our family had safeguarded for generations—disappear. Even though I felt that way, it wasn’t a sum of money we could easily raise.”

Since part of the brewery was still barely usable, he managed to resume sake production with minimal equipment; however, this was merely a temporary restoration with clear limitations. About three years had passed with no clear outlook for the future when a sake brewery in the neighboring city of Hanamaki decided to go out of business, and they agreed to lend him their brewing facility.

Although it was in a neighboring city, it was only about a five-minute drive from Kikumzakari Sake Brewery, and the water quality for brewing was virtually the same. Mr. Fujimura decided to relocate, planning to conduct brewing at the rented facility while handling shipping operations at the original brewery.

Then, in the spring of 2014, Kikuzakari Sake Brewery began brewing in its new location. At the same time, the company shifted its focus to becoming a “100% Junmai Brewery,” dedicated exclusively to brewing junmai sake.

Made with koji mold and rice from Iwate

Ever since Mr. Fujimura became president, Kikuzakari Sake Brewery had primarily focused on brewing junmai sake. While the brewery did produce a limited amount of “futsūshu” (standard sake) with added distilled alcohol for local consumption, demand for this type of sake in the local market has been declining year by year. Meanwhile, nationwide, the popularity of junmai sake has been rising as consumers increasingly seek authentic products. Particularly after the earthquake, driven by a spirit of support for reconstruction, the junmai genshu sake “Taxi Driver” began selling well in the Kanto and Kansai regions.

Against this backdrop, just as we were reviewing our production system with the goal of “increasing junmai sake production,” the decision was made to relocate the brewery. Mr. Fujimura seized this opportunity to commit fully to producing only junmai sake. “At the time, there were no other breweries in Iwate Prefecture producing exclusively junmai sake, so I thought, ‘Since we’re doing this anyway, let’s be the first in Iwate,’” he recalls.

The rice used as raw material is 100 percent grown in Iwate Prefecture. What’s particularly noteworthy is that the brewery primarily uses “table rice” rather than sake-brewing rice. “We used to use sake-brewing rice and even sourced Yamada Nishiki from other prefectures, but in the end, table rice produced a flavor that better suited my preferences,” says Mr. Fujimura. For example, “Taxi Driver” is made using “Kakehashi,” a table rice variety native to Iwate Prefecture. Although it was once widely cultivated as a prefectural recommended variety, production has plummeted due to the rise of new varieties. However, Mr. Fujimura maintains, “This rice is the very source of ‘Taxi Driver’s’ flavor,” and he continues to safeguard both its quality and quantity through contract farming.

Furthermore, for “koji”—a crucial element that determines the quality of the sake—the brewery uses “Reimei Hiraizumi,” a koji mold strain developed exclusively by Iwate Prefecture. This koji mold produces moderate amounts of glucose—the source of sweetness—and is well-suited for bringing out a sake profile ideal for aging, perfectly aligning with the brewery’s vision for flavor. The junmai sake brewed in this way is released as “unfiltered genshu”—without any dilution or filtration—to deliver its flavor directly to the consumer. This robust, unfiltered character—straight from the press—has become a defining feature of Kikuzakari Shuzo’s identity, captivating sake enthusiasts across the nation.

Shiki Brewing’s new brewery is complete. Back to the place where it all began.

Kikuzakari Sake Brewery’s “brewing in a rented facility” continued for about 10 years.

“We are the only sake brewery remaining in Kitakami City. Although we temporarily relocated to neighboring Hanamaki City, we always wanted to return to our founding location,” said Mr. Fujimura. However, the disaster-damaged brewery had undergone repeated expansions and renovations, resulting in a complex structure that made restoration difficult. Furthermore, in 2021, the roof collapsed due to the Fukushima Offshore Earthquake and heavy snowfall, damaging the boiler used for bottle washing and pasteurization.

Even so, Mr. Fujimura refused to give up on “rebuilding at the founding site.” Utilizing crowdfunding, he constructed a new brewery and an office/warehouse on the company’s headquarters grounds. In the summer of 2024, he resumed sake brewing in Kitakami. “We were able to return here in the milestone year of our 130th anniversary,” Mr. Fujimura said with a smile.

The new brewery is equipped with state-of-the-art facilities, enabling year-round brewing across all four seasons. They also introduced temperature-controlled thermal tanks, making it possible to handle the entire process—from mashing to bottling—within this single facility.

Meanwhile, for the pressing process—which separates the mash (moromi) into sake and sake lees—they adopted the “Sase-style” press. The Sase-style method involves stacking bags of mash inside a vat and applying pressure from above to extract the liquid. Although it involves the labor-intensive steps of bagging and stacking, the slow, gentle pressing—without excessive force—is said to result in a mellow sake with a smooth mouthfeel.

One reason for choosing the Sase method—which is by no means efficient—is that they had been using it for pressing during the 10 years they rented space at another brewery. “The press at the brewery we were renting was a Sase-style model manufactured in the Showa 30s,” says Mr. Fujimura. “It took at least three days, and sometimes as long as a week, to press a single tank of mash.” The fact that pressing takes time means the sake is exposed to air for that duration, accelerating oxidation. While this method is unsuitable for producing fresh, fruity sake, it proved effective for crafting sake with rich umami flavors suited for aging or serving hot. Furthermore, the refined sediment produced by the Sase-style pressing adds depth to the flavor, becoming one of Kikumori’s defining characteristics.

“Our brewery has always been known for sake with a robust flavor, and I believe the Sase-style pressing has further solidified that direction. “The Sase-style press at our brewery is state-of-the-art, so the pressing itself takes about a day. However, we press on the weekend and bottle the sake at the start of the week. By deliberately letting it sit for a few days, we ensure the flavor remains unchanged from before, while at the same time, the physical labor involved in tasks like transferring the sake has been reduced, making the process much more efficient.”

Bringing the unique flavors of this brewery to the rest of Japan and the world

“Now that our new brewery is complete, we’ll finally be able to stabilize our production system,” says Mr. Fujimura with high hopes. While local consumption once accounted for 90 percent of sales, out-of-prefecture sales now make up 70 percent. Sales in Osaka, in particular, account for more than half of the total. “It seems that people in the Kansai region tend to prefer sake with a robust umami flavor and a clean finish,” he explains. In recent years, inquiries from overseas have also increased, and the brewery has secured export deals to the United States, Italy, and New Zealand.

At the same time, he also hopes to expand his customer base in the Kanto region, particularly in Tokyo.

“To achieve that, I believe the key challenge is finding the right match with liquor stores and authorized dealers. I want to find partners who truly understand the direction of our sake-making and can convey that to customers in their own words, rather than just parroting our message. That’s one of my goals for the future,”

says Mr. Fujimura. While exploring new connections with liquor stores in the Kanto region, he is carefully nurturing relationships with stores and fans with whom he already has ties.

Bringing the sake that only this brewery can produce from Iwate to all corners of Japan—and to the world. Having made a fresh start from its “origins” at the founding site, Kikumori’s sake brewing is now heading into its next chapter.

The post Drawing strength from tradition and innovation, they remain committed to producing “100% Junmai Sake.” Takuya Fujimura of Kikuzakari Sake Brewery / Kitakami City, Iwate Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

A single glass of sake can sometimes make the time spent with loved ones even more meaningful. Rihaku Brewery has been sharing these special moments with the world from Shimane. Although it is a long-established brewery with a history spanning over 140 years, its journey has always been marked by a spirit of challenge. The company expanded its sales channels back when overseas expansion was still rare, and in recent years, it has been pushing the boundaries of sake by brewing with flower yeast and developing products tailored to the times, thereby broadening the possibilities of sake. At the core of it all lies a consistent philosophy: “Creating joyful moments through sake.”

Dedicated solely to sake brewing in the land where the “Myth of Sake Brewing in Izumo” has been passed down through the ages

Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture. In this region, where a long-standing culture of sake brewing thrives, the “Izumo Sake Brewing Myth”—which tells of the gods brewing sake—has been passed down through the generations. In this land, we have continued to brew rich, full-bodied sake deeply rooted in the local terroir, using high-quality water and rice primarily grown in Shimane Prefecture. Today, the brewery uses sake-brewing rice for all of its in-house brands, focusing on the quality of the rice used in the brewing process.

Moving forward with the changing times

The company was founded in 1882. During the Meiji era—when feudal society came to an end and Japan began adopting Western culture—Takujiro Tanaka began brewing sake under the trade name “Tanaka Honten.” At that time, unlike today’s brand-based approach, it was a small-scale business where local residents would bring their own drinking vessels to purchase sake. As the Taisho era gave way to the Showa era, the distribution of sake began to be standardized nationwide, and breweries started promoting their own unique brands. It was at this time that Tanaka Honten adopted the brand name “Rihaku.” The name was chosen by Reijirō Wakatsuki, a native of Matsue City who later served as Prime Minister of Japan. An avid fan of Tanaka Honten’s sake, Wakatsuki named it “Rihaku”—after the Tang Dynasty poet from China—with the hope that it would “be a sake cherished across the ages.”

After the war, against the backdrop of rising demand for sake, the company grew primarily by supplying unblended sake to major manufacturers in bulk (“oke-uri”), and in 1950, it was incorporated as “Tanaka Shuzo.” In the 1970s, at a time when mass production was still the norm, Tanaka Shuzo shifted its focus from “quantity to quality.” The company began full-scale development of its own brand, “Rihaku,” using only rice suitable for sake brewing and pursuing the ultimate in flavor. Through repeated trial and error, they improved quality, eventually earning recognition—including numerous awards—and laid the foundation that continues to this day.

The company then began exporting in the 1980s. Although exporting sake was still rare at the time, the previous head of the family aimed to spread sake culture overseas. Today, 40% of its production is exported to 14 countries, primarily the United States. As the popularity of its flagship product, “Rihaku,” grew, the company changed its name in 1993 from “Tanaka Shuzo”—which bore the representative’s surname—to “Rihaku Shuzo.”

With a pioneering spirit, “passing on sake to the next generation”

The current fifth-generation head of Rihaku Brewery is Yuichiro Tanaka, who studied brewing science at Tokyo University of Agriculture and took over the family business after apprenticing at a specialty shop for local sake in Tokyo.

Mr. Tanaka joined the family business in 2003. At that time, the sake industry was undergoing a major turning point. In addition to market shifts caused by the shochu boom, the artisans who had long supported sake brewing were rapidly aging. Rihaku Sake Brewery was no exception. Sensing that “if things continued this way, we would no longer be able to brew sake,” Mr. Tanaka decided to overhaul the company’s production system, which had been centered around the head brewer. He took the bold step of creating a system that would ensure stable sake production.

Introducing modern equipment to pass on the skills of the “Izumo Toji” to future generations

The quality of Rihaku Sake Brewery is underpinned by the expertise of the Izumo master brewers. Through meticulous koji production and a method of slow fermentation at low temperatures, they have consistently produced sake with high acidity and a robust flavor. However, this technique relied heavily on experience and intuition. To address this, Mr. Tanaka pushed forward with digitizing the production process and investing in equipment, enabling the management of fermentation conditions—such as status, temperature, and duration—through numerical data. He refined the process into a reproducible system and established it as the “Rihaku Brewery Method.”

At the same time, not everything is left to machines. For critical processes such as koji production, the brewery places great importance on manual labor, shifting from a approach where “humans control the koji” to one where “humans prepare an environment conducive to the koji’s activity.” By closely monitoring temperature and humidity and making adjustments based on the koji’s condition, they bring out its full potential. Advances in technology and equipment have made the kind of meticulous management that was once difficult possible, leading to stable quality and further improvement.

In recent years, climate change has made the quality of rice more variable. As a result, they strive to make improvements every year while monitoring its condition. “There’s no end to the adjustments,” he says. “To deliver good sake, we will continue to conduct repeated analyses,” showing that he is not content with the status quo.

Creating a New Identity Using Flower Yeast

Until Mr. Tanaka returned to the brewery, they had been producing classic-style sake by combining sake rice varieties such as “Gohyakumangoku” and “Yamada Nishiki” with “No. 9 yeast,” which creates a crisp, clean flavor. This method has long been used to consistently produce high-quality sake thanks to the expertise of the Izumo master brewers.

At the same time, Mr. Tanaka took on the challenge of creating a new combination using the “Omachi” sake rice variety and “flower yeast.” “Flower yeast” refers to sake yeast that has been successfully isolated and cultured from flowers found in nature. While the character of the sake varies depending on the type of flower used, it is said to be particularly effective at producing a floral ginjo aroma and fruity flavors, making it a popular choice for crafting distinctive sakes. Drawing on his experience researching flower yeast during his university days, he set out to create sake in a style distinct from traditional methods.

“I wanted to create a new flavor unique to ‘Rihaku Sake Brewery’—one that differs from the techniques of the Izumo master brewers,” he explained. With this vision in mind, he selected his ingredients to achieve a balance of a robust body with a refreshing aroma and light acidity. The elegant flavor has been well-received by women and those new to sake.

Such initiatives are part of the challenge to preserve tradition. It is precisely this attitude—taking a step forward without fear of change—that serves as the driving force to carry sake culture into the next era.

Providing a pleasant experience through sake

Japan’s drinking culture began as a sacred “ritual connecting the gods and people” rooted in Shinto rituals, and has evolved uniquely as a setting for enjoying the seasonal beauty of nature—flowers, birds, the wind, and the moon—as well as for social interaction. Within this culture, sake has always been a part of daily life, not merely as a luxury item, but as a force that connects people.

“What we’re making isn’t just sake—it’s an ‘oasis’ that enriches people’s time,” says Mr. Tanaka. His philosophy is that sake should not take center stage, but rather serve as an element that enhances conversation and meals.

Sake is, after all, merely a “catalyst.” Its presence sparks conversation and makes meals more enjoyable. He wants to support such moments. To that end, he prioritizes a flavor profile that balances well with food. He aims to create sake that never grows tiresome and naturally invites you to take another sip.

Our Commitment to Preserving Sake Culture Accurately

At Rihaku Sake Brewery, guided by the philosophy of “promoting sake culture and passing it on correctly to future generations,” we use sake-brewing rice in all of our sake. Sake-brewing rice refers to rice that has been selectively bred to be suitable for brewing Japanese sake. Although it is more expensive, it produces fewer off-flavors and makes it easier to achieve a clean taste that pairs well with meals.

Additionally, the brewery uses water from one local well and three wells on its premises; since all are part of the same water system, they are all utilized in the brewing process. The soft mouthfeel and clean finish make the sake easy to drink and support its appeal as a meal-accompanying sake.

Bringing richness to daily life with a tireless spirit of challenge

To preserve tradition,Rihaku Sake Brewery’s quest for innovation never stops.

In 2024, the company began selling its sake in pouches. It is highly unusual for a regional sake brewery to handle everything from development to manufacturing in-house, making this a groundbreaking approach for the industry. “Because they’re lightweight and easy to carry, our pouches are being chosen for new occasions such as outdoor activities and watching sports. They’re also increasingly popular as souvenirs among international visitors.” The company says it aims to begin selling unpasteurized sake in pouches in the future.

At the heart of these efforts is the desire for people to share pleasant moments together, transcending national and cultural boundaries. Rihaku Sake Brewery will continue to deliver the richness that each cup of sake brings to the world.

The post Preserving tradition and sharing the charm of sake with the world: Yuichiro Tanaka, 5th-generation head of “Rihaku Sake Brewery” first appeared on NIHONMONO.

“Sharaku,” which has gained popularity among local sake enthusiasts nationwide for its high quality, and “Aizu Miyaizumi,” which has been beloved locally since the brewery’s founding. “Miyaizumi Meijo” continues to pursue its ideal of sake brewing through these two brands. Amid abundant water sources and a climate ideal for sake brewing, fourth-generation brewery owner Yoshihiro (the older brother, pictured right) and Managing Director Yamato (the younger brother, pictured left) take on the challenge with a passionate desire to “create even better sake.” While meticulously monitoring the ever-changing temperature, humidity, and aromas within the brewery to refine the quality of their sake, the team—led by the Miyamori brothers—works as one to craft their sake.

A sake brewery in Aizu, a region renowned for its sake, that has carried on a 400-year history

Aizu-Wakamatsu City is one of the leading sake-producing regions in the Tohoku region. The Aizu Basin, surrounded on all sides by mountains, experiences significant seasonal temperature fluctuations. With cold winters that keep bacteria at bay, it is blessed with a climate and environment ideally suited for sake brewing. Furthermore, having flourished as a castle town, the area has a long history dating back to the Edo period, when numerous sake breweries were established and competed to refine their brewing techniques.

Located near the famous Tsuruga Castle, the charming brewery “Miyaizumi Meijo” was founded in 1955 (Showa 30). While there are many breweries with hundreds of years of history, this one might seem relatively new—but that is not the case. Miyaizumi Meijo is a brewery that branched off from “Hanaharu Shuzo,” one of the oldest and most prestigious breweries in Aizu-Wakamatsu, founded in 1718 (Kyōhō 3). Although its history as a company is short, it carries on a 400-year tradition of sake brewing.

The exterior, which blends seamlessly into the atmospheric streetscape of this castle town, is designated as a historic landmark, and the brewery grounds themselves are filled with charming spaces. Although it was originally a small facility, it has taken on its current form through a series of expansions. The varying heights of the roofs and the different materials used for the walls add to its unique character, giving the building a rich variety of expressions.

As the fourth-generation head, he is taking on the challenge of revitalizing the brewery and pioneering new brewing methods

The older brother, Yoshihiro, and the younger brother, Yamato, have an unusual background: after graduating from college, they both worked as systems engineers (SEs). In 2002, Yoshihiro quit his job as an SE and returned to Fukushima to turn around the family business, Miyaizumi Meijo. He was 26 years old at the time.

“We completely reevaluated our sake-making methods and production environment from scratch,” Yoshihiro recalls. “Although we had won gold medals several times at the National New Sake Competition, the techniques we’d honed for our competition entries weren’t being applied to our other sakes at all. So I became increasingly determined to apply the knowledge gained from making those competition sakes to our regular retail products and revitalize our lineup.”

At the time, the president was responsible for management, while the head brewer handled production. However, Yoshihiro believed that “if the business leader were also involved in the brewing process, we could get closer to our ideal flavor.” He traveled around the country visiting breweries he believed produced high-quality sake, incorporating their excellent techniques as he pursued a new flavor profile.

The bond between brothers has brought a breath of fresh air to the sake brewery

After working as a systems engineer, Yamato became a secretary to a member of the Diet. One day, his older brother Yoshihiro—who had already returned to their family home—asked him, “Yamato, why don’t we make sake together?” “I’d always wanted to work with my brother someday, so I didn’t hesitate for a moment,” Yamato says with a beaming smile.

“I wanted to produce sake of a consistently high standard, and as the number of stone vats was gradually increasing, I felt I needed my younger brother’s help to improve the quality of our local brand, ‘Aizu Miyaizumi,’” says Yoshihiro. From that point on, a new chapter in sake brewing centered around the brothers began.

In recent years, Yoshihiro has primarily been in charge of brewing “Sharaku,” while Yamato has focused on “Aizu Miyaizumi,” and together they continue to pursue their ideals through these two brands.

Reviving “Sharaku,” Which Once Nearly Disappeared, to Reform the Warehouse

Originally, the “Sharaku” brand belonged to Higashiyama Shuzo, a brewery that traced its roots back to Miyamori Bunjiro Shoten—the original main branch of the Miyamori Shuzo family. Although it was popular among the people of Aizu, Higashiyama Shuzo regrettably went out of business in 2009. Consequently, Miyaizumi Meijo, which shares the same origins, took over the “Sharaku” brand.

“Although we took over the ‘Sharaku’ brand, I wanted to create a sake that would be recognized nationwide, so I poured the sake-making expertise I had cultivated over the years into crafting a new sake,” says Yoshihiro. As a result, “Sharaku”—whose history had once nearly come to an end—has grown into a sake that enjoys nationwide popularity. In 2014, at the “SAKE COMPETITION”—an event that determines Japan’s most delicious commercially available sake—it won first place in both the Junmai and Junmai Ginjo categories, proving its exceptional quality to the nation. Since then, the brewery has continued to strive for even higher quality, and “Sharaku” has become such a renowned sake that it is now a regular gold medal winner at various competitions.

“Aizu Miyaizumi”: Continuing to Take on Technical Challenges

“Aizu Miyaizumi” primarily ships its products within Fukushima Prefecture. Considered a premium sake on par with “Sharaku” in terms of flavor and quality, it achieved remarkable success in 2018 by winning first place nationwide in the Junmai category at the “SAKE COMPETITION” and earning numerous awards at international sake competitions, thereby gaining national attention. Driven by a single-minded desire to “cherish the brand that has been safeguarded by generations of brewers,” the brewery has consistently raised the bar for brewing quality.

“Aizu Miyaizumi will continue to pursue technical challenges as we strive to create the ideal sake,” says Mr. Yamato. The brewery is not content merely to “preserve tradition”; its pursuit of new brewing innovations knows no bounds. Using sake-brewing rice varieties developed by Fukushima Prefecture—such as “Yume no Ka” and “Fuku no Ka”—as well as “Wataribune No. 2,” “Yamada Ho,” “Yamasake No. 4,” and “Oyama Nishiki,” the brewery has produced a diverse range of sakes. “There are still many brewing styles and techniques I’d like to try in the future,” Mr. Yamato says with a delighted smile.

Uncompromising Sake Brewing with High-Quality Water and Rice

The brewery is highly regarded not only for the quality of its sake but also for its strict hygiene standards. Beautifully polished wooden corridors, imposing tanks, and koji quietly maturing over time. While many breweries store their sake at room temperature or in tanks, Miyasumi Meijo strictly adheres to immediate bottling after pressing and refrigerated storage of the entire batch in bottles to prevent oxidation from air exposure and deterioration at room temperature.

“Starting with the process of drawing groundwater to create the brewing water used throughout every stage of sake production—from managing raw materials and the moromi (fermenting mash), to pressing (the process of separating the finished moromi into sake and lees), storage, and shipping—we make no compromises in the work and environment necessary to improve the quality of our sake,” says Mr. Yamato.

Aiming for High-Quality Sake Through Data Management and Accumulation

Inside the brewery, there is a space that exudes a unique atmosphere, much like a laboratory. In the “Analysis Room,” lined with various analytical instruments, there were analyzers capable of measuring data—such as alcohol content, acidity, and Sake Meter Value (sweetness)—necessary for assessing the fermentation progress of the mash before it becomes raw sake.

Both Mr. Yoshihiro and Mr. Yamato majored in science in college, so they are meticulous about collecting data. This is to ensure that they can verify their findings at any time. Believing that “good sake can only be achieved through accumulated experience,” they manage all data related to their research aimed at further advancing sake brewing, as well as data on every batch of sake they actually produce. Through this approach, Miyaizumi Meijo pursues the production of delicious, high-quality sake at the highest possible standards.

With our sights set on the world, we’ll keep taking on new challenges while having fun.

“Our brewery has now reached the ideal scale,” says Yoshihiro with a smile. “We used to be a small brewery that didn’t even produce enough to fill 10 tanks, but now we’re making 150 tanks’ worth. A brewery of about 2,000 koku is ideal because we can keep a close eye on everything.” He goes on to share his new dream: “Going forward, we want to deliver sake that people around the world—not just in Japan—will find delicious, so we’re also considering venturing into exports. I hope our sake will be discovered by people all over the world.”

“Working alongside my brother is incredibly fulfilling,” says Yamato, his eyes sparkling. “I look forward to exploring the exciting world that lies ahead together with my brother, the president.” He reaffirms his resolve: “As the population continues to decline and the number of drinkers shrinks, I believe it’s crucial to reach out to the world. I want to keep taking on new challenges so that people will say, ‘Miyaizumi is doing something fascinating again.’”

As long as these positive challenges continue, the future of Miyaizumi Meijo looks set to become even more exciting. Just imagining what kind of sake they’ll create makes my heart race.

The post Preserving tradition while continuing to take on new challenges. Yoshihiro and Yamato Miyamori of “Miyaizumi Meijo,” who captivate customers with two brands that linger in the heart and memory / Aizuwakamatsu City, Fukushima Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Yuri Kawana serves as both the representative and head brewer at Kawakei Shoten. While honoring tradition, she embraces new techniques and challenges, approaching sake brewing with the philosophy that “tradition is preserved only by pushing boundaries.” In particular, the flagship brand “Koganesawa” captivates a wide range of people—from beginners to connoisseurs—with its rich aroma and smooth finish. What does Yuri value most in her pursuit of crafting sake that stands out?

Established 120 years ago. “Kawakei Shoten” was founded by a merchant family with ties to the Date clan.

In 1902, the first-generation Keiji Kawana founded “Kawakei Shoten” in Wakuya Town, Toda District, in northeastern Miyagi Prefecture. The company traces its roots to a hardware merchant who served the Date clan of the Sendai Domain. Following the Land Tax Reform, which granted him farmland, he relocated to Misato Town, located south of Wakuya Town. Although Misato Town was known since ancient times for its fertile soil and thriving rice production, the land acquired by the Kawana family was largely marshy and unsuitable for rice cultivation. Consequently, they turned their attention to sake brewing as a livelihood independent of agriculture and decided to establish a brewery.

Continuing to produce unique sake using the Yamahai brewing method

Since its founding, Kawakei Shoten has been committed to the “Yamahai-style brewing” method, which utilizes natural lactic acid bacteria to cultivate the shubo (yeast starter). The shubo is the process of cultivating yeast to create the foundation for fermentation, and it is a crucial factor that determines the flavor of sake. Because this method is time-consuming, labor-intensive, and requires a high level of skill, the brewery once limited production to about 60% of its capacity and relied on “sokujo-zukuri” (rapid fermentation), which involves directly adding artificially produced lactic acid, to make up the difference. However, Yamahai-style sake now accounts for 90% of production. Yuri explains the reason: “Yamahai-style brewing allows each brewery to express its unique character, enabling us to convey the distinctive flavor of Kawakei Shoten. I feel it is indispensable to Kawakei Shoten today.”

Carefully brewed using locally sourced rice and water, “Koganesawa” is characterized by its delicate and refined flavor and is highly regarded as a sake that pairs well with meals. Another reason for its popularity is that it tastes delicious at any temperature—whether served chilled, lukewarm, or hot. The name originates from the fact that it was brewed by a merchant from Wakuya Town, a region famous for gold mining.

The Role of an Only Daughter Raised in an Era of Declining Interest in Sake

For Yuri, having a sake brewery as part of her everyday surroundings since childhood was simply a given, but she says she never gave much thought to the history and craftsmanship that lay within it. However, as she grew older and came into contact with the memories of her community and family, she gradually began to understand its significance.

Partly because sake consumption plummeted during her formative years, she had come to view sake brewing as an “unrewarding job.” However, the Great East Japan Earthquake of March 2011 changed her perspective. Her family home collapsed, and since restoration took time, she began to reflect on the significance of being born as the only daughter of a family that ran a sake brewery.

Learning every aspect of sake brewing from scratch and aspiring to become a master brewer

In the wake of the earthquake, Yuri, the only daughter of the Kawake family, began to consider taking over the family business. Regardless of whether she would actually take over the business, she decided to find out what sake brewing was really like, so she participated in a 40-day training course held at the Tokyo Office of the National Research Institute of Brewing (which was merged into the headquarters in Hiroshima Prefecture in 2015). The National Research Institute of Brewing is a government research institute dedicated to studying the quality of alcoholic beverages and brewing techniques; it also offers educational programs that attract sake brewers from across the country. “Once I tried it, I found sake brewing to be quite interesting,” she recalls with a laugh.

That feeling encouraged her to learn sake brewing from scratch, and in 2012, she joined Kawakei Shoten. She says she was initially confused and knew nothing, but as she learned from those around her, she gradually began to discover the appeal of sake brewing. Then, following her father’s passing, she took on the responsibility of sake brewing as the head brewer in 2019.

Assessing the quality of the ingredients to craft a delicious sake

Yuri is particular about washing the rice by hand. While she does use some machinery, she says that washing 5-kilogram batches by hand allows her to closely monitor for broken grains and check the rice’s water absorption, making it easier to achieve the desired sake profile. In recent years, rice has tended to become harder, and since the washing method can significantly affect the quality of the sake, she pays the utmost attention to this process. When washing, she explains that she does not scrub the rice vigorously as one would with table rice, but rather washes it gently, with the aim of gently removing the bran.

Striving to produce better sake, we are exploring new flavors at Kawakei Shoten

Kawakei Shoten’s current sake brewing is guided by the theme of “brewing with a pure heart, always keeping our drinkers in mind.” To achieve this, the brewery strictly adheres to the “ginjo-style” method, which involves long-term, low-temperature fermentation from the koji-making stage through the yeast starter and mash. This process ensures the sake develops a clean, refined flavor.

However, the brewery notes, “Compared to other companies’ koji, ours has a somewhat subdued character, so we’d like to try our hand at producing a more robust koji in the future.” Their goal is to create sake with both clarity and a solid structure.

“Koganesawa’s Position”: A Reassessment Amid the COVID-19 Pandemic

Amid declining demand for sake during the COVID-19 pandemic, Yuri chose to dedicate time to reevaluating the brand. As a result, she says the appeal and positioning of “Koganesawa” have become much clearer. The goal is to pursue a sake that “harmonizes with the dining table” and pairs well with any dish, while remaining a constant presence in people’s lives. To that end, she is determined to “continue taking on new challenges and create even more delicious sake.”

Though not flashy, it complements food and enriches the drinker’s experience. It is this accumulation of such moments that represents the value Kawakei Shoten has upheld for 120 years. “Koganesawa” will continue to evolve and remain beloved for years to come.

The post Cherishing the bounty of this land, we offer sake that can only be enjoyed at Kawakei Shoten. Yuri Kawana, 7th-generation owner of Kawakei Shoten / Misato Town, Enda District, Miyagi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Hirako Shuzo, brewing sake since 1861 in Ishinomaki City, home to the Sanriku and Kinkasan offshore fishing grounds—one of the world’s three great fishing areas. Their flagship brand, “Hitakami,” is a sake dedicated not to competing for flamboyance, but to enhancing sushi. Meticulous fermentation control, possible only in a small brewery, and sake born from land sharing the fishing grounds now earns deep trust from sushi chefs nationwide.

“Sake that pairs well with sushi” wasn’t the original goal

Hirako Shuzo’s “Hitakami” has won a total of 18 gold medals at the National New Sake Appraisal and has also been honored with the Miyagi Prefectural Governor’s Award (the highest prize) at the Miyagi Prefecture Sake Appraisal. However, the path to being recognized as “sake that pairs well with sushi” was far from smooth sailing.

The resolve that began with the declaration to “close the brewery”

Born as the son of the fourth-generation owner of Heikō Shuzō, Takahiro Hirai had no intention of taking over the family business after graduating from a university in Miyagi Prefecture. He instead found employment in Tokyo. However, a turning point came suddenly. In his second year as a working adult, his father came to Tokyo and announced, “We’re closing the brewery.”

At that time, the sake industry was under pressure from shochu and beer, with many breweries closing down. While Heikō Shuzō had long been beloved locally under the brand name “Shinzeki,” its performance had significantly declined. Working in the sake division of a wholesaler, Hirai began to recognize the appeal of his family business through his interactions with various breweries and sake companies.”I couldn’t accept why we had to close. Even if my father couldn’t do it, I could,” he strongly protested, deciding to take over the brewery. He returned to Ishinomaki in 1987, but achieving his ideal sake-making didn’t happen immediately.

Days of searching for a unique identity to create marketable sake

After the bubble burst, the sake industry was in the midst of fierce price competition. Mass production and mass distribution became the norm, leaving small regional breweries with no choice but to load their trucks and sell door-to-door. Though Hirai had taken over with high hopes, he often found himself wanting to turn away from the harsh reality, far tougher than he’d imagined.

Meanwhile, signs of a local sake boom were emerging, demanding answers to “how to deliver it” and “how to get chosen.” Existing products like “Shin-Sekki” couldn’t sustain the business, and he agonized constantly over the future. It was during this struggle that he arrived at “Hidaka-mi.”

“While randomly researching discontinued products, I noticed ‘Hidakami,’ a sake my father had brewed. I liked the sound of ‘looking up to the sun.’ Upon investigation, I learned it was a term deeply connected to this region. I felt it was fitting for us, brewing sake in Ishinomaki.”

The name “Hidaka-mi” embodies both the land’s history and their own resolve. They resolved to reintroduce this name, carrying both meanings. They then decided to streamline their product lineup and refresh their brand image, shifting from “Oyasan Seki” to “Hidaka-mi.”

Shifting Focus to “Sake That Pairs Well with Sushi”

In 1990, sales of the ginjo sake “Hidakami” began. At that time, the sake market tended to view ginjo status as a benchmark for quality, making it essential to first establish a foundation for recognition. Before articulating a clear concept, this was a tactical move to stand at the starting line where brewers could be fairly evaluated. They continued selling the sake while developing distribution channels, but the situation didn’t improve immediately.Faced with the reality of not being chosen, we continually pondered not just how to brew, but “what purpose this sake serves.”

Finding a path forward in its role to complement cuisine

The clue to becoming a “chosen sake” came when a colleague studying brewing at the Brewing Research Institute invited him to a sushi restaurant in Kanazawa. The sushi served there wasn’t part of a course meal; the sushi itself was the star. For Hirai, who was used to eating sushi within kaiseki cuisine, this experience was a shock. He was moved by how the rice and topping became one, melting in his mouth.When he asked the sushi chef to pair his sake with the sushi, he received an unexpected response.

“The aroma is good. But when paired with the sushi, the sake overpowers it.”

In that moment, he realized that a sake with a bold, floral aroma could overwhelm the delicate qualities of a dish like sushi. “Sake shouldn’t be the star; it should support the food,” he decided. “ I’ll make a sake that doesn’t interfere with sushi’s subtlety, but rather enhances it. “

The “ultra-dry junmai sake” he arrived at after years of effort

The sake aimed for as a perfect match for sushi was an ultra-dry junmai sake with a clean finish and no off-flavors. The goal was to not interfere with the delicate umami and flavors of seafood, while gently washing down the fat and the sweetness of the rice. To determine the ideal level of dryness for sushi, the brewer conveyed the vision, repeated the brewing process, and brought samples to sushi restaurants, enduring harsh critiques each time.

Through meticulous fermentation control and aging, we finally perfected “Hidakami Ultra Dry Junmai Sake” in 2008. It holds its character perfectly whether served chilled or warmed, enhancing the umami of fish.

Its soft mouthfeel and clean finish, especially its excellent pairing with red fish, earned it high praise as a dining sake. Born in Ishinomaki, where delicious seasonal fish are caught year-round, it adopted the catchphrase: “If you’re pairing with fish, it’s got to be Hidaka-mi.”

Facing adversity and refining quality

However, the Great East Japan Earthquake struck in 2011, with its epicenter in the Pacific off the Sanriku coast. “Just as we were getting started, the disaster hit,” recalls Mr. Hirai.

Moving forward with the support of sushi chefs

The Great East Japan Earthquake inflicted devastating tsunami damage on Hirako Shuzo. The koji room, shubo room, and fermentation room—essential for sake brewing—became unusable, plunging the brewery into an uncertain future. Yet Hirai remained forward-looking: “True recovery means evolving from this point.” He renovated the entire facility with stainless steel, establishing an environment enabling strict temperature and hygiene control. The brewery was reborn, capable of pursuing even more stable quality than before.

A major source of support during this rebuilding process came from the sushi chefs he had befriended while searching for “sake that pairs well with sushi.” They rushed to Ishinomaki with their teams to provide meals.

Continuing to Release New Products Without Pause

Born during this rebuilding effort was the Junmai Ginjo sake “Yasuke,” released in 2012.Off the Sanriku coast and Kinkasan Island, seafood with a delicate sweetness—such as shellfish and white-fleshed fish—is commonly landed. However, the “Hidakami Super Dry Junmai Sake” sometimes overemphasized this subtle umami. Thus, “Yasuke” was born, aiming to be a softer sake that enhances the natural sweetness of ingredients.

Its defining characteristic is the harmonious balance of a rich, full-bodied umami flavor and a sharp, clean finish. While offering a gentle taste, its transparent clarity allows it to slip away smoothly, ensuring it doesn’t overpower the lingering flavors of food. It is particularly renowned for its excellent pairing with sweet seafood like white fish and squid.At the “SAKE COMPETITION 2025,” which determines the world’s best commercially available sake, it won Bronze in the Junmai Ginjo category.

The sake’s name originates from the kabuki play “Yoshitsune Senbonzakura” and has historically been used in the entertainment district to refer to sushi. It revives this name in modern times, embodying respect for sushi culture and the connection with sushi artisans.

Through sake brewing, we aim to create moments of happiness for those who drink it.

“We want to be the unsung hero supporting the deliciousness of sushi,” says Mr. Hirai. For him, Hidaka-mi is not a sake that asserts itself. Based on the pairing concept where food and sake complement each other’s flavors, the focus is on enriching the sushi-eating experience itself.

While currently exporting overseas, they avoid indiscriminately expanding distribution channels. They engage only with chefs and restaurants who share their philosophy and approach them saying, “We want to use Hirai’s sake.”

Hidaka Shuzo, bearing the name of the sun-blessed land “Hidaka Country,” continues to challenge itself in sake brewing that can only be done here, in this land, in this brewery. Today, “Hidaka” is a sake you’ll almost certainly find in any sushi restaurant. We encourage you to try it as a sake that makes that moment of bringing sushi to your mouth an even more special time.

The post Takahiro Hirai, President of Hirako Shuzo, Pursuing “Sake That Pairs Well with Sushi” by the Rich Sea / Ishinomaki City, Miyagi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Idejōzōten, a long-established sake brewery with over 300 years of history dating back to the Edo period. Nestled at the northern foot of Mount Fuji, on the shores of Lake Kawaguchi, this brewery has continued making sake for generations. In recent years, it has embarked on a new venture: crafting its own unique whiskey. We spoke with the next-generation representative about his vision for preserving the taste of their traditional sake while embracing this new challenge, and about the future of this venerable brewery.

A Brewery by the Lake

Lake Kawaguchi, one of the Fuji Five Lakes at the foot of Mount Fuji, attracts many tourists every year. Nearby stands the long-established brewery “Ide Brewery,” which has been in operation since the mid-Edo period, over 300 years ago. We spoke with Takaoshi Ide, the 22nd-generation owner, who is currently involved in brewing and selling sake, and now also in the new venture of whisky production.

A brewery that began with soy sauce production

The origins of “Ide Brewery” date back to around 1700. Located on the northern foothills of Mount Fuji, this region boasts abundant spring and groundwater. However, the absence of rivers and the hard bedrock made digging irrigation channels difficult. Consequently, the land was unsuitable for supplying water to rice paddies and thus not ideal for growing rice, the key ingredient for sake.Conversely, soybean cultivation using rainwater flourished. Consequently, the 11th generation owner, Yogoemon Ide, opened a brewery to begin brewing soy sauce using these soybeans. Around 1850, the 16th generation owner, Yogoemon Ide, recognized the cool climate at an elevation of 850 meters and the abundant spring water flowing from Mount Fuji.He began sourcing rice from regions within Yamanashi Prefecture where rice cultivation was thriving and started brewing sake. This marked the beginning of sake production at Ide Brewery.

While it’s difficult to source all ingredients solely from rice grown in the northern foothills region, which has few paddy fields, the brewery now procures rice from various farmers nationwide, primarily within Yamanashi Prefecture. However, driven by the desire to “create sake that becomes a source of pride for local people,” they have recently expanded their offerings to include brands like the special junmai sake “Hokuroku,” made using “Tamasakae” rice from the northern foothills of Mount Fuji.However, no matter how carefully suppliers are selected, some variation in rice quality based on the year and region is unavoidable. “I believe a key technical point in sake brewing is how to minimize impact on the product and effectively deliver the brewery’s signature taste, the consistent flavor, to consumers,” said Ushun, revealing confidence in his company’s techniques.

Sake Pride of Ide Brewery

With “using Fuji Mountain spring water” as the overarching concept, Ushun states, “We strive to create pure sake that upholds that image.” The representative brand of Ide Brewery is “Kai no Kaiun” (Fortune of Kai). Around 1850, when sake brewing began, it coincided with the marriage of Princess Kazunomiya.Inspired by this, the sake developed with the wish “for fortune to open and lead to happiness” was named “Kaiun” (Good Fortune). Later, in 1985, Kaiun, beloved by people for many years, was renamed Kai no Kaiun to emphasize its regional identity as a Yamanashi brewery, and it continues to be brewed today. Its taste is smooth on the palate with a slightly dry flavor.It finishes cleanly, making it the perfect accompaniment to a meal.

Kai no Kaiun: Crisp and Unwavering

The quality of Iide Brewery’s sake is underpinned by the “Fuji Water” flowing directly beneath the brewery. This underground water, drawn from a point at approximately 1,100 meters above sea level, takes 80 years to pass through the volcanic layers of Mount Fuji. It is then naturally filtered through basalt layers and other formations, resulting in a refined, crystal-clear softness. This water is the very core of the “clean sake quality” the brewery strives for.”Refreshing and clean.” This fundamental principle remains unwavering. The pleasant sharpness of their flagship brand, “Kai no Kaiun,” harmonizes with the transparency of Fuji’s water, enhancing its appeal as a sake to enjoy with meals.

For fermentation, stable association-type yeast is used, prioritizing the straightforward expression of the ingredients’ flavors while minimizing off-flavors. Among these steps, Mr. Ushun emphasizes the “particularly crucial” practice of pasteurization immediately after pressing. Minimizing exposure to air and meticulous management to stabilize the sake are indispensable.After pasteurization, the sake is stored quietly in an environment with minimal temperature fluctuations. Meanwhile, the unpasteurized sake is kept year-round in refrigerators maintained below 0°C. This meticulous management, dedicated to preserving the delicate flavor, creates a sake of unwavering purity.

“Raw Unpasteurized Sake” You Can Only Taste Here

The shop “Sakaboushi,” attached to the brewery, offers a lineup including sake and foods made using sake lees, a byproduct of the brewing process. Additionally, since April 2010, tours of the brewery have been available to the general public.They also offer a limited-edition unpasteurized sake, “Special Junmai Nama Genshu ‘Kakoi’,” available only to visitors. During sake brewing, rice is fermented to produce alcohol. The liquid pressed from the mash (moromi), a mixture of fermented rice and sake, is called nama genshu.Most commercially distributed sake undergoes pasteurization (hi-ire) for sterilization and dilution with water to adjust alcohol content at this stage. However, Special Junmai Nama Genshu “Kakoi” skips these processes entirely. Experience the unadulterated alcohol sensation and fragrant rice flavor of “pressed and served as is.” Savor its smooth taste and the faint lingering ginjo aroma.

A New Challenge: Launching the “Fuji North Foot Distillery”

In July 2020, Ide Brewery embarked on a new challenge, beginning whisky production under the brand name “Fuji North Foot Distillery.” Globally, alcoholic beverages are broadly categorized into “brewed spirits,” made by fermenting raw materials like rice or barley, and “distilled spirits,” created by heating the fermented liquid, vaporizing it, cooling it, and condensing it back into liquid form.For whisky specifically, the distilled base spirit must undergo “aging” – long-term storage in wooden casks. For Ide Brewery, which had previously focused solely on brewing, the processes of “distillation” and “aging” were entirely new territory.

“We had knowledge and hands-on experience with fermentation, but distillation and aging were completely unknown to us. We truly started from scratch,”

“It took several years to finally establish our own unique production methods, but there’s still so much to learn,” Ushun shares, reflecting on the challenges. While his desire to make distilled spirits grew stronger, he hesitated about the significant capital investment required to start whisky production. What ultimately pushed him forward was the noticeable increase in inbound demand in recent years.Even if foreign visitors to the brewery primarily came for sake, wouldn’t they be even happier if the lineup included a whiskey originating overseas? It was this thought that led him to decide to take the plunge into whiskey production.

Whiskey made from rice by a sake brewery

“Japanese whiskey is currently popular worldwide. I believe one factor is its drinkability. While maintaining that, I want to express the unique character of Ide Brewery.”

Many of the aging barrels used for Japanese whiskey are made from Mizunara oak, which imparts an elegant, sweet aroma and a subtle sweetness to the whiskey. Beyond this “drinkability,” Ide Brewery’s whiskey incorporates an extra layer of craftsmanship. One example is using “sake yeast” for fermentation, instead of the typical whiskey yeast.Another is the use of rice, the same base ingredient as sake, instead of the more common corn, rye, or wheat. This adds a distinct sweetness derived from the rice, resulting in a whisky with a deeper, smoother mouthfeel. Behind these meticulous choices lies the desire to “create a whisky that only we can make.””A rice-based whiskey made by a sake brewery. I believe it possesses a unique character you won’t find elsewhere,” states Ushun proudly. Currently, they offer two products: the whiskey ‘Taijukai’, made with the aforementioned sake yeast and rice, and the ‘Fuji Kitakoku Distillery Highball’, which incorporates carbonated water and spring water to further enhance its “drinkability”.

“This product was created to widely announce our new venture: ‘Ide Jozoten, known for making sake, has started making whisky.’ We’re excited to see how the market responds.”

Creating an everyday sake that never gets old

Mr. Ushun, who will lead Ide Brewery as its 22nd-generation head in the future, shared his vision: “I want to continue making sake without straying from the core characteristics that define Ide Brewery’s current flavor profile: ‘refreshing clarity’ and ‘elegant purity.'” He also expressed his enthusiasm for focusing on brewing “Kai no Kaiun,” a standard sake.”While ‘special designation sake’ tends to draw attention across Japan these days, I also want to properly craft ‘ordinary sake,’ which has been deeply rooted in daily life for generations.”

Long before the “Sake Production and Quality Indication Standards” were established, “Kai no Kaiun” has been brewed without altering its flavor since 1850. It represents the unwavering identity of Ide Brewery. “It may not be flashy, but it has been cherished as a companion for ‘ordinary’ moments, like family meals at the daily dinner table. I hope it continues to be loved by people without ever growing tiresome.”There is an irreplaceable happiness in being able to be “ordinary,” in being able to live everyday life. The sentiment poured into “Kai no Kaiun” connects the history and spirit of Ide Brewery.

The Future of Ide Brewery

“Sake, representing Japanese culture, will continue to attract global attention given recent inbound demand. That’s precisely why I believe there’s ample need to keep producing ‘Kai no Kaiun,’ which connects time-honored traditions to the present. Building on this strong foundation, we aim to develop products like whiskey that meet modern needs. Times keep changing, after all.”

Ide Brewery’s sake-making journey began with soy sauce production, rooted in observing the region’s unique characteristics and blessings. Moving forward, the brewery will remain deeply connected to the community, steadfastly preserving its inherited flavors while flexibly adapting to changing times and embracing new challenges.

The post Traditional Sake and Innovative Whiskey Crafted with Fuji Spring Water: “Ide Brewery” / Minamitsuru District, Fujikawaguchiko Town, Yamanashi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Hachinohe Shuzo has been brewing sake continuously for 250 years since its founding in 1775.In 1910 (Meiji 43), they trademarked “Mutsu Otokoyama.” Then, under the current head, the eighth-generation Komai Shōzaburō, they introduced the renowned sake “Mutsu Hassen” to the world in 1998 (Heisei 10). Today, the eighth-generation head’s two sons, Managing Director Shūsuke and Toji (Master Brewer) Shinsuke, lead the brewery. They preserve tradition while continuing to challenge themselves for the next generation.

The Eighth Generation Who Blazed the Trail and Created the Premium Sake

The history of Hachinohe Shuzo began with the first Komai Shosaburo, who left Omi Province during the Genbun era and entered the sake brewing trade in Mutsu. He established a brewery in southern Aomori Prefecture in 1775 (An’ei 4).The brewery relocated to Hachinohe during the Meiji period. The current brewery building, still in use today, was constructed during the Taisho era. Situated along the Nitta River, it has long been cherished as an iconic symbol of Minato Town.

Incidentally, around 1984, when the current head, the eighth-generation Komai Shōzaburō, joined the brewery as a successor, the Komai family was not operating as a single brewery. Instead, they were part of a cooperative-like organization formed under the wartime Corporate Reorganization Order.

This Corporate Reorganization Order consolidated the 16 sake breweries that existed before the war into just five.

The Komai family initially complied with this structure, but the organization’s performance was lackluster. Sales were poor for all brands except the Komai family’s own Mutsu Otokoyama.

Witnessing this situation, Shōzaburō felt a sense of crisis, thinking, “If things continue like this, the Komai family’s sake brewing will eventually become unsustainable.” He sought independence from the organization. He rented a new brewery and established the new company “Hassen Shuzō.”

He then created the new brand “Mutsu Hassen” and changed the company name to “Hachinohe Shuzo” in 1999. In 2009, he moved back from the rented brewery to the current one, making a fresh start with Mutsu Otokoyama and Mutsu Hassen as the pillars.

The Diverse Flavors of “Mutsu Hassen”

The name “Hassen” originates from the Chinese tale of the Drunken Immortals (a story of eight immortal drinkers). “I was deeply moved by the anecdotes of these drunken immortals and the fascinating ways they enjoyed sake,” Shōzaburō explains. “I named this sake with the hope that people would enjoy it in the same state of blissful intoxication.”

Based on a modern brand concept of “vibrant and fruity,” the lineup offers a wide variety of items. Over 20 types of standard and seasonal limited-edition sakes are always available, with new types like sparkling sake, kijo-shu (sake made with rice lees), and high-acidity sake continuously being developed. This thoroughly delights fans and embodies the sentiment behind the name.

“Originality is key,” Shōzaburō states. “To thrive in today’s sake industry, where breweries nationwide are releasing delicious sakes one after another, we want to clearly express what makes Hachinohe Shuzō unique. To highlight our identity as an Aomori brewery, we switched to using only Aomori-grown rice when we created Hassen.The yeast is also an original Aomori strain. Furthermore, by brewing with local spring water and expressing the land’s terroir, we aim to create sake that truly represents the region.” For the rice, they directly contract with farmers, working together as partners in sake production. “However, compared to wine grapes, for example, it’s difficult to differentiate sake based on rice alone. Within that challenge, how can we express our uniqueness? Hassen is a brand that allows us to challenge ourselves with a wide range of product development, so we are constantly researching.”

The results of this research are evident in their awards.In recent years, it has received high praise at international competitions like France’s “Kura Master” and London’s “International Wine Challenge.” “Moving forward, we’ll focus more on the overseas market and continue our outreach,” says Shōzaburō. The brand has already expanded into 28 countries and aims for 50. “At the same time, we want to work hard to stimulate demand in the shrinking domestic market. After all, Japanese sake is recognized worldwide alongside Japanese food culture.”

Mutsunomiyama: Captivating with Simplicity

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“Mutsu Oyama” is the brewery’s founding brand. It was the first trademark in Japan to use the name “Oyama,” a term long used by breweries nationwide for renowned sake brands. For over 100 years since its trademark registration, it has been the brewery’s mainstay, positioned as a traditional brand line in contrast to the Hassen brand.”Mutsu Otokoyama has a long history as a beloved local sake. While maintaining the traditional image of ‘Otokoyama means dry sake,’ we also emphasize its roots in a fishing town. It’s a sake meant for evening drinks with meals. It’s refreshingly crisp and clean, ensuring you never tire of it,” says Shōzaburō.

Its simplicity is also a defining feature, with two basic labels: Classic and Ultra Dry. It remains a brand with a loyal fan base. Overseas, it receives favorable reviews in markets like the United States, where dry-style sakes tend to be preferred.

The difference from the diverse Mutsu Hassen lineup is clear; each brand has its own established direction, resulting in a broad fan base. This is the brewery’s greatest strength.

Sake Brewing in the Reiwa Era: A Brotherly Challenge

For Shōzaburō’s two sons, older brother Shūsuke and younger brother Shinsuke, the brewery was a familiar place from childhood. It was their playground, and they sometimes helped with work. Today, the Komai brothers manage the brewery’s operations: Shūsuke as Managing Director and Shinsuke as Toji (Master Brewer).

Shusuke joined the brewery in 2002 (Heisei 14). He witnessed Shōzaburō’s challenging times firsthand and has worked alongside him for nearly 20 years as his trusted partner, through to the present day.

After graduating from university in Tokyo, the younger brother, Shinsuke, worked for a beverage manufacturer in the capital. However, he returned to the brewery in 2009. He joined the brewery urgently to help transform the seasonal winter employment system for sake brewing into a year-round staff system. Four years later, he replaced the previous master brewer and took on the role of responsible brewer.

It has been over a decade since the two brothers began managing the sake brewing business in earnest. Through their continuous study and research, Hachinohe Shuzo’s sake brewing evolves daily.

“Fundamentally, we want to make clean sake. Sake that is easy to drink, straightforward, and delicious. Our brewery has a wide range of products, but we strive daily to brew sake that is genuinely delicious no matter which one you drink, and that also has a sense of clarity,” says Shinsuke. “There are trends of the times, and I feel that sweet, acidic sake still sells well now. Even within that, we are conscious of not relying too much on sweetness.”

Using Aomori yeast and rice to express the character of Aomori’s local sake

As Shōzaburō mentioned, the brewery uses Aomori-grown rice and Aomori’s original yeast strains. The five basic rice varieties are “Masshigura,” “Reimei,” “Gin-Eboshi,” “Hana-Omoi,” and “Hanabuki.” Masshigura and Reimei are table rice, while Gin-Eboshi, Hana-Omoi, and Hanabuki are sake-brewing rice varieties.The two table rice varieties are selected when aiming for a clean, crisp finish. The most frequently used is Hanabuki, characterized by its elegant flavor and vibrant aroma. “While Aomori rice generally tends to express its flavor well, Hanabuki often excels by drawing out the rice’s umami to its absolute limit,” Shinsuke explains.

They utilize four distinct original Aomori yeasts, selecting them individually or blending them to define the flavor. Hassen uses Mahoroba Gin, which highly produces the aromatic compound “ethyl caproate” – known for its fresh, juicy aroma reminiscent of apples and pears – as its base.while Otokoyama uses Mahoroba Hana, which produces a mild aroma within the isoamyl acetate family, resulting in a sake suited for pairing with food.

The use of Hachinohe’s renowned “Kanisawa Spring Water” as brewing water is another mark of originality. Hachinohe Shuzo pursues a distinctive character achievable only through its unique flavor profile.

250 years of history, and the future ahead

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With a playful spirit, Shinsuke smiles, “I want to use local ingredients to make not just sake, but all kinds of alcoholic beverages. It would be interesting to have a lineup where our sake alone could cover the entire table.”

Hidesuke, in his supervisory role, adds, “While sake is our foundation,” and then, narrowing his eyes, continues, “One of our brewery’s strengths is our wide variety. We want to design products under the Mutsu Hassen brand that can be enjoyed throughout a course meal, from before the meal to after.” The brothers are perfectly in sync.

These two carry the brewery’s 250-year history on their shoulders and value their relationship with the community as much as the sake-making itself. “Here in the Minato area, the population is steadily declining, and we’re seeing a trend of decline, like major festivals disappearing. In that sense, we have this desire to become something that can revitalize the region again. But that won’t happen unless we build our own strength. For example, we offer brewery tours, but to attract more people, we need to raise our profile even further.Also, to increase local employment, we need to boost sales. To achieve these goals, we first need to solidify our foundation as a brewery,” says Shusuke. His strong determination was evident in his resolute gaze. We look forward to the future endeavors of these two individuals, focused on both carrying on the tradition and looking toward the world.

The post Hachinohe Shuzo Co., Ltd. / Hachinohe City, Aomori Prefecture 250 Years Since Founding: Carrying an Unwavering Spirit to the Next Generation first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Pure clarity and a first taste of deliciousness. The craft saké brewed by haccoba-Craft Sake Brewery in Minamisoma, Fukushima Prefecture, instantly captivates you. The representative of the brewery, Taisuke Sato, lightly enjoys the experimental and free brewing of sake in the area he has moved to. The young brewer has a big dream to go global with craft saké and a passion for the region’s reconstruction after the Great East Japan Earthquake.

Sake brewing from scratch in Minamisoma, where reconstruction efforts are underway

haccoba-Craft Sake Brewery” (haccoba) was established in February 2021 under the concept of “a sake brewery that grows together. The brewery, which was renovated from a 50-year-old house, is located in Odakaku, Minamisoma City, Fukushima Prefecture, an area where all residents were temporarily evacuated due to the nuclear power plant accident after the Great East Japan Earthquake in 2011.

In fact, my birthday is March 11. I was living in Saitama at the time of the disaster, and every year on my birthday, I feel frustrated that I have done nothing to help the affected areas, and I wanted to someday engage in activities that would help the recovery of the region,” he says.

Enthralled by the Beauty of Fermentation Culture, Entered the Sake Brewing Business

After getting hooked on sake as a university student, Mr. Sato worked for an IT company after graduation, and later found a “sake start-up” at a company he changed jobs at. There, he learned that he, too, could create a new sake brewery, and he set his sights on opening a sake brewery where he could make his living from the sake he loves. The reason for this, he says, “was because I was impressed by the beauty and depth of fermentation culture through my favorite sake.

In opening the business, he was once again impressed by the “world’s best tasting sake” after drinking it at an izakaya. He visited Abe Shuzo (Kashiwazaki City, Niigata Prefecture), the brewer of REGULUS sake, which is known for the Koshino-Oyama and Abe series of sake, and learned sake brewing techniques. After one year of training, he established his own sake brewery at his current location at the age of 27.

Sato was positive about starting from scratch as a local sake brewery, and his encounter with Tomoyuki Wada, the head of Odaka Workers Base, who had been working to create a business in Odaka Ward, Minamisoma City since 2014, also helped accelerate the launch of haccoba. Mr. Wada introduced us to this house when we were struggling to find a good property for a sake brewery,” said Mr. Wada.

He met many people who were sincerely involved in the regional development and reconstruction of the areas affected by the nuclear power plant disaster, and the fact that there were many people who supported him was also a deciding factor in his decision to choose this location. The support for starting a business from the local government also brought a sense of security. In addition, his wife, Mizuki, is from Iwaki City, Fukushima Prefecture, which made him feel more familiar with the area.

Today, in Minamisoma’s Odaka Ward, in addition to residents who have lived there for a long time, young entrepreneurs from all over the country have come to start their own businesses, and new business and community development efforts are underway.

Craft saké,” in which the maker’s individuality shines through, is also appealing in its range.

Under the Sake Tax Law, the craft saké produced by haccoba is classified as “other brewed sake” rather than “sake,” and thus cannot be called “sake. In addition, currently, sake production licenses are rarely issued to new brewers, so the younger generation of sake brewers is finding a way to make their dreams come true in the craft saké business. Mr. Sato is one of them.

However, the Sake Tax Law will be revised in 2020, and new sake production licenses will be issued only for brewing sake to be sold for export, not for domestic distribution in Japan. We expect that these trends will lead to changes in laws and regulations in the future,” he said.

Craft Sake, a New Genre of Sake Growing in Popularity

Sake (sake) is made from strained “moromi,” a fermented mixture of rice, rice malt, and water, and there are limits to what other ingredients can be used, such as brewer’s alcohol and sugar. The process of making sake is different from that of sake.

According to the Craft Sake Brewery Association, “craft saké” is a new genre of rice-based sake that is based on sake (seishu) production technology and incorporates processes that cannot legally be employed in conventional sake. The number of sake breweries producing craft saké has been increasing in recent years, and the quality of the sake has improved dramatically, steadily expanding its popularity and power.

The strength of craft saké is the freedom to take on new challenges. Our brewery focuses on direct sales, so we can be adventurous with sake that would normally be considered difficult to sell, and we can make it fruity, dry, or smoky depending on the secondary ingredients we add, such as herbs, hops, and fruit.

A Modern Take on Folk Sake Making

There was once a time in Japan when each household enjoyed “dobrok” (the original form of sake) made from a variety of ingredients. However, since sake brewing became licensed in the Meiji era (1868-1912), it has become difficult to freely make sake. One of the purposes of haccoba’s sake brewing was to express such a folkloric way of sake making in a modern way.

One of the books that Sato loves to read and cherishes as a reference for his recipes is “The Do Brokk Treasured Book of Countries. I was intrigued by the unique and free ways of making it, such as using calahanasaw, which grows in the mountains of Tohoku, and using fruits such as millet, Japanese millet, and mountain grapes, in addition to rice,” he says. The idea of starting a sake brewery in a private home was also an extension of the home brewing process, he says.

A Small Brewery Enjoying Evolution and Change

Located in Odaka-ku, Minamisoma, is a small, 40-square-meter glass-fronted brewery, an adjoining pub (open Friday, Saturday, and Sunday by reservation only), and a store with a wide variety of products. The brewery has three 300L thermal tanks, one for brewing and one for storage, from preparation to completion.

Due to the steady increase in orders for new products since its establishment, the company is building a brewery in the neighboring town of Namie in 2023 and making sake at two locations. The standard time from preparation to completion is about one month. As soon as the tanks are empty, they begin the next round of brewing, releasing new products and collaborative products as they go along.

This year, we are trying our hand at old sake for the first time,” says Sato, smiling happily, “by keeping a close eye on the fermentation process and letting the sake mature. Always remembering to evolve and change, he takes on the challenge of sake brewing.

Passing on the baton from the producers to create safe sake with organic rice

The rice used as a raw material is one of the specialties of the company. The rice used includes “Omachi” from Nemoto Organic Farm in Minamisoma City, “Amanotsubu” from Toyoda Farm, and “Sasashigure” from Tsuchiya Farm in Inawashiro Town, all of which are contract farmers.

Beautiful ears of rice were waving in the wind in the rice paddies of Nemoto Organic Farm in Odaka-ku, Minamisoma City. Koichi Nemoto, the owner of the farm, is currently working on organic farming with his son, Gomi.

Nemoto’s rice is so delicious that I feel it naturally makes sake taste good as well,” he said. I want to pass on the baton by expressing the precious rice that is grown organically and deliciously to the maximum extent possible in the form of sake without wasting it,” says Sato.

Koichi says calmly, “It’s been 70 years since I started growing rice, but every year I treat it as if I were a first grader. Mr. Sato moved to the area and started a sake brewery, which uses the rice we grow, and also employs young local people, which helps to revitalize the community. As a sake brewery rooted in the community, haccoba is already happily connected to a multicultural and multigenerational community.

Beautiful Sake Brewed with Originality Enriches and Adds Color to Everyday Life

Starting with “Hananuta Hops,” a standard sake since its establishment, haccoba has released a succession of unique flavors and collaborative products such as “kasu [sansho lemonade],” “haccoba coffee shop,” and “Shokolashu,” which have been attracting attention.

Most of the products are 500 ml in size. The unique and cute labels have many fans and are also appreciated as gifts. The alcohol setting is set at 10-13℃ because they want even wine lovers to enjoy their wines casually. We base our wines on taste and quantity so that they can be enjoyed with meals. He often collaborates with people from other industries, sharing ideas and creating recipe designs, ultimately aiming to create an enjoyable experience through alcohol.

A taste with depth combined with native plants and trees of Fukushima

haccoba has steadily grown into a sake brewery whose name is always mentioned when “craft saké” or “botanical sake” is mentioned. haccoba’s deep flavor, which combines native plants and trees of Fukushima, is attracting attention both in Japan and abroad.

The standard sake “Hananuta Hops” is a bottle that combines the refreshing citrus aroma and clear sweetness of rice by crossing “hanamoto,” a fantastic production method handed down in Tohoku, and “dry hops,” a beer technique that extracts a gorgeous aroma. In addition to aroma hops, the brewery is particular about the use of calahanaso, a type of vine grass also known as oriental hops. The hops are boiled from a dried state, and the boiled juice is added to the brewing water to make the malt. The hops are also soaked in the tank during the latter stages of fermentation, leaving a strong aroma in the finished product. The style is a unique flavor that has been perfected by combining craft beer production methods with an awareness of reproducing the “Hana-Hashiro” style.

In 2024, the company will introduce a new series of standard sake called “zairai (indigenous). Brewed with a variety of native ingredients, the sake is made with local herbs encountered with mountain owners in the mountains of Fukushima Prefecture. For example, kaya leaves, cedar bokkuri, aburachan branches, and mugwort flowers are fermented together with rice. The finished product has a gentle aroma, a good balance of coolness and astringency, and a pleasant lingering taste.

More than 6 to 10 varieties are always available at haccoba’s store and online store, and can also be purchased and enjoyed at stores in Tokyo.

From Fukushima to the world. Challenge to open a brewery in Belgium

The next goal of haccoba, which expresses craft saké through free brewing, is to expand into Belgium. We have been working on a plan to establish a brewery in Belgium since the very beginning. Belgium is a region where each region has its own recipe for beer, and they have built a culture similar to the Japanese dobrok, so I would like to take on the challenge of creating a sake that is a fusion of our drinks,” he says enthusiastically.

With a free spirit that is reminiscent of the folkloric dobrok of the past, haccoba is aiming for the world, and we can’t wait to see what kind of delicious sake they will produce.

The post From Fukushima to the world. Taisuke Sato of “haccoba,” a company that delivers surprise and excitement with its freely conceived “craft salmon” / Minamisoma City, Fukushima Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Take-no-i Shuzo, with a history of over 160 years, created a new brand, Seiko, in 2007. This sake is brewed with the flower yeast and rice that impressed the brewer during his apprenticeship, as well as Yatsugatake subterranean water drawn from a hand-dug well, from which the company’s name is derived. The toji is proud to pass on his unwavering sake brewing skills to future generations.

A long-established sake brewery that has been in business for over 150 years

There is a long-established sake brewery in Hokuto City, Yamanashi Prefecture, that has been brewing sake since the end of the Edo period (Keio era) more than 160 years ago. The name “Take-no-i Sake Brewery” is derived from the character “Take” of Buzaemon Shimizu, the founder of the brewery, and “I” of a 10-meter hand-dug well fed by subterranean water from the Yatsugatake Mountains. It was 18 years ago (2007) that a new brand called “Seiko” was born at the family-run brewery, which had been producing the “Take-no-i” brand for generations. It has a refreshing and easy-to-drink taste. It is recommended to drink it chilled. The brand’s senior managing director and chief brewer, Koichiro Shimizu, is the driving force behind the Seikou brand.

The New “Seikou” Brand

Today, Take-no-i Sake Brewery is making its own unique sake while responding to the needs of the market by rebranding and trying out the latest brewing methods. However, until 18 years ago, when Mr. Shimizu returned to Hokuto City after completing his training, he was making low-priced sake, unlike today. At that time, beer and wine were on the rise, and the demand for sake was gradually decreasing with the times. So we started brewing a new type of sake to differentiate ourselves from the competition. The name of the new brand, “Seikou,” was chosen to symbolize the image of clear, clean water and the desire for the sake industry to “sparkle” in the world. The name “Seikou” was chosen to reflect the image of clear, clean water and the desire for the sake industry to “sparkle” in the world.

Tsurubara Yeast and Omachi, both of which impressed him during his apprenticeship

Yeast is an essential part of sake brewing. Yeast is a small microorganism, invisible to the naked eye, that is responsible for the alcoholic fermentation process, converting the sugar in the rice used to make sake into alcohol and carbon dioxide. Yeast is usually isolated from the sake’s unrefined sake, but Take-no-i Sake Brewery uses “hana-kobo” (flower yeast), which is isolated from flowers that bloom in the natural world. Mr. Shimizu originally studied floral yeast while a student at Tokyo University of Agriculture. He says that his experience in brewing sake with various types of flower yeast at the Raifuku Sake Brewery in Ibaraki Prefecture, where he trained after graduation, was the starting point for his current style.

He says, “It was the Tsurubara yeast that I felt was most suited for the sake I wanted to make. Tsurubara yeast is a yeast that has been successfully isolated from the vine by the Sake Brewing Laboratory of the Tokyo University of Agriculture’s Department of Brewing and Fermentation. Mr. Shimizu was impressed by the combination of Tsurubara yeast and Omachi when he was in training. He says, “Sake made with Omachi and Tsurubara yeast is unique in Japan. I think it has a taste that can only be produced here. These words reveal his unwavering confidence. When Mr. Shimizu took over as toji (master brewer), he focused on “Junmai Ginjo Omachi,” which uses Omachi sake rice produced in Okayama Prefecture, as the core product of the brand. Currently, the Seikou brand is differentiating itself by brewing with Tsurubara yeast and offering a variety of products using different varieties of sake rice.

The Growing Appeal of Seikou

When the Seikou brand was released, it was very well received by buyers for its innovative taste. On the other hand, he realized that flower yeast is still not generally recognized. He says, “I think there are many people who don’t know what yeast is in the first place,” and he doesn’t put much emphasis on promoting the distinctive flower yeast as the main ingredient.

We place importance on having people experience the taste by drinking it. I think that if people feel that this is what flower yeast is after drinking it, then the goodness of the yeast will gradually spread.

An unexpected gift from Yatsugatake

The quality of the water is very important in creating a clean, refreshing taste. Mr. Shimizu says that he places great importance on water, and that all of his sake is brewed with water from the Yatsugatake Mountains. Hokuto City, where the brewery is located, is rich in Yatsugatake subterranean water, which is pumped from a 10-meter hand-dug well that gives the brewery its name. The water is classified as soft, medium soft, medium hard, or hard depending on the concentration of calcium and magnesium in the underground water. In Japan, where the land is narrow and the slopes are steep and the water flows out to the sea quickly, the calcium and magnesium in the ground are absorbed in a short time, so the water is often soft with a low concentration. However, the subterranean water here in Yatsugatake is influenced by the complex geological strata, so it is not soft water, but medium-hard water. Tsurubara yeast has a relatively weak fermentation power, but the hardness of the water helps it, like a “source of energy,”” says Shimizu. He recalls how he felt when he first started brewing sake in this area, saying, “I was very happy that the ingredients I wanted to use and the characteristics of the region happened to match, and I was able to create the flavor I was aiming for. The land of Yatsugatake responded in an unexpected way to the craftsman’s repeated research to create delicious sake.

Unchanging, unwavering sake brewing

Mr. Shimizu’s commitment is not to change the taste of the brand. He is committed to “never changing the taste of the brand,” which means “never blurring. After many years of sake brewing, the quality of the rice and environmental factors of the year can cause the taste of the sake to gradually deviate from the ideal. The difficult point is how to keep it within the framework of “Take-no-i” and “Seikou”. In order to maintain a consistent flavor, he says, the “strong points” of the ingredients, such as the aroma, are sometimes suppressed. Why does he insist on “not changing the flavor of the brand” to such an extent? The reason is the “customers” who look forward to drinking his sake.

He says, “There are many sake brands with the same name that have completely different tastes, and if you look around the world, there are many sake brands that have changed in taste. Of course, different sake breweries have different ideas, but I believe that the first taste is the one that leaves the biggest impression on the drinker. So I don’t want to betray that impression.

Preserving the Taste for Future Generations

In 2017, there was a new change in the Take-no-i brand, which has been well-loved for many years. In addition to the existing product lineup, new “Tokutei Meisho-shu” (special name sake) such as “Junmai Ginjo” and “Tokubetsu Honjozo,” which can only be named after sake rice that meets strict conditions such as the rice polishing ratio and ingredients used, have been added to the lineup. Despite these changes, however, the company continues to make locally-oriented sake, such as using Hitogokochi, a sake rice grown in Hokuto City, Yamanashi Prefecture. Shimizu’s steadfast sake brewing style is still alive and well, not only in the “Seikou” brand, but also in the “Take-no-i” brand, where the taste has remained unchanged.

As for the future outlook, Shimizu is determined to improve the current products to increase public recognition, but he has no plans to change the flavor of the brand. The refreshing and easy-to-drink taste of Qinghuang will surely continue to be accepted in the future. I believe it will be loved for a long time and remain as a sake. Mr. Shimizu’s words are imbued with a sense of responsibility to the customers who look forward to his sake and a solid confidence in the sake he is brewing. With the trust and experience he has built up, the unchanging taste of Seikou will be passed on to future generations.

The post Take-no-i Sake Brewery” brews sake with a consistent taste using flower yeast and Yatsugatake subterranean water / Hokuto City, Yamanashi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Matsuya Sake Brewing Company is located in Fujioka City in southwestern Gunma Prefecture, bordering on Saitama Prefecture. The sake “Ruka,” which uses water from the Kannagawa and Ayukawa Rivers that gushes from the Mikabo Sankei mountain range, which is ideal for sake brewing, is attracting attention as an original sake created by the enthusiasm of the sixth generation brewer, Hiroyuki Matsubara, who is also the toji, the president of the company.

The Sixth Generation Envisions a New Gunma Sake

Fujioka City in Gunma Prefecture has a mild climate with mountainous terrain in the west and the Kanto Plain in the east. Matsuya Sake Brewery, which has been producing sake here since 1951, was originally founded as a rice wholesaler in Toyama Prefecture during the Edo period and began brewing sake in the late Meiji era. The brewery later moved to Fujioka City in Gunma Prefecture, which is close to the large market of Tokyo and blessed with a natural environment, and has been making sake that is suited to the locality of Gunma. After the previous master brewer retired due to old age, Hiroyuki Matsubara, the sixth generation brewer and president of the company, became the master brewer himself and has been involved in production ever since. With a production of only 250 koku, the small brewery produces sake that is made by hand in the traditional way, with a modern approach that is in tune with the times, offering a new kind of Gunma sake.

Returning to his hometown to fulfill the role of the eldest son, the sixth generation

Born and raised in a sake brewery, Matsubara was not interested in sake making as a child, and after graduating from college, he began working for a street brand to pursue a career in fashion. He decided to return to his parents’ home and take over the family brewery.

He said, “At one time I ran away from home to do something different from the family business, but since I am the eldest son, I decided to take over the family business. I had a sense of fulfillment from having done what I loved in the outside world, so I honestly thought I would return to my parents’ house and do my best.

At the time, however, we were in the midst of the shochu boom. The brewery mainly produced sake for celebratory occasions such as elections and weddings, but Mr. Matsubara felt that this alone would eventually make it difficult to run the business. However, he felt that this would eventually become too difficult to manage. Since he was taking over the brewery, he wanted to make sake that would be sold at restaurants, and he began to think about creating his own original sake at the brewery.

I want to make Gunma sake that fits the times.

Mr. Matsubara joined Matsuya Sake Brewery and began learning sake brewing from scratch at the brewery. At the same time, in order to create his own original sake, he went to study at the “Red Brick Sake Brewery” in Oji, Tokyo (now the National Institute of Sake Brewing), which has contributed to the development of sake brewing in Japan, and learned from senior brewers at Gunma Prefecture’s technical exchange meetings.

At the time, the generation older than myself favored dry sake, and many of the breweries around us were producing it. However, as the number of senior brewers I met at the engineer exchange meetings and the number of brewers of the same younger generation as myself increased, the trend of sake preferred in the market started to change. The fruity, aromatic sake that I like is getting more attention.

In his search for sake that suited the times, he went to restaurants recommended by a toji he respected, read books, and actively sought advice. He was advised that “marketing is important, but at the end of the day, your own feelings are important,” and he decided to create a fruity, fresh sake that was becoming popular and had a flavor he wanted to drink.

Deciding on a Brand Name from a Child’s Name Candidate

Mr. Matsubara decided that if he was going to make his own original sake, he wanted it to be fragrant and fruity, close to the kind of sake he had always dreamed of making. He imagined the taste of sake like “Jyushiyo” and “Houbiden,” which he had been shocked by when he drank them, and through a process of trial and error, he came up with the ideal name for the sake. When he brought the sake to the distributor, he was advised by the Matsuya Brewery to think carefully about branding if it was to be a new brand.

At the time, I had just had a baby, and I was thinking of a name for my child, and I found a name that fit the image of the sake I wanted to make, “Nagare Shine. We named our new sake brand “Ryu-ki”.

In addition to the existing brands “Tosei” and “Hiraijo,” the new brand name “Nagareki” has been added to the existing brands, and the brewery has launched its own brand. The words on the “Ryuki” label were written thousands of times by Mr. Matsubara himself, he says.

Sake brewing that takes advantage of the quality of the water

When making Nagareki, Mr. Matsubara’s first image was of a sake that would be enjoyed for its aroma. However, the sake produced in Fujioka did not have as much of an aroma as he had expected. The sake made in Fujioka, however, does not have as much aroma as one might expect, and yet it has a slightly citrusy, acidic flavor, he says.

We dig a well in the groundwater of the Kannryu and Ayukawa Rivers and use it as brewing water,” he said. The water is very soft, with a German hardness of about 6. For rice, we use Yamada-Nishiki and other sake rice suitable for our brewery, such as Niigata’s Gohyakumangoku.

At first, he had a hard time producing the sake he envisioned. As he repeatedly experimented with different types of rice and yeast and their compatibility with water based on various data, he gradually began to see changes in the taste of his sake. It was not the fragrant, fruity sake that he wanted to make, but he began to see the characteristics of Fujioka, a sake with a subdued aroma and a slightly citrus-like acidity that the region produced. I am now thinking of making “Ryuki” in a way that makes the most of this character.

Sake made with the same routine

Matsuya Brewery is a small brewery with only five employees, including part-time workers. Because of the small number of employees, the brewery takes a longer production period, and they are conscious of following the same routine every year to keep the rhythm of the brewing process.

Although we have a small number of employees, we produce sake in small batches, sticking to traditional handmade methods in order to produce higher quality sake. In particular, the pressing process is carried out slowly and under pressure using an old-fashioned machine that has been handed down from generation to generation, resulting in a clean and gentle sake quality.

The traditional technique of koji making, which easily affects the flavor of sake, is employed. Steamed sake rice is exposed outdoors and exposed to wind to evaporate the moisture, while controlling the temperature to the desired level. In order to allow the fermentation of unrefined sake to proceed slowly at low temperatures, the rice is pounded for more than 50 hours to allow the mycelium to reach the center of the rice, producing a clean koji that matches the quality of the sake.

He began to think about pursuing refined sake by using traditional koji making that is not influenced by trends, and by changing the flavor of the sake by combining the two.

Creating sake that can be handled by restaurants

In branding Ryuki, Mr. Matsubara says that he had a strong desire for the sake to be sold in restaurants. He also tried a different approach to the sales of sake than what the brewery had been doing until now.

We decided to limit the distribution of “Ryuki” to only those dealers who are willing to sell it to us. We chose only those distributors who were willing to sell our sake, and we are still doing business with them today.

Limited distribution has the advantage of increasing the value of the brand and differentiating it. However, it also has the disadvantage of not being able to market the product unless the distributors approve of it.

When Ryuki was just starting out, there were few dealers who would accept his brand, and he was sometimes turned away, told to “go study more. There was even a distributor who finally accepted our brand after three years of trying,” says Matsubara.

Ryuki,” a brand created with his own ingenuity

Nagare Kiki” was created with the image of a fresh, fruity flavor that would flow and shine in the mouth, and it is now turning out to be exactly what the name implies.

There are still things I need to work on, but after 17 years of making “Ryu-Kiki,” I think I’ve gotten about 50% closer to what I’m aiming for,” he said. I think I am getting better and better, but in order to raise it another 50 percent, I think I need more experience, more ideas, and more effort than I am capable of at the moment.

Two years after taking over the Matsuya Brewery, he launched his own brand, Ryuki, which became popular mainly among restaurants, just as Mr. Matsubara had hoped, and is now gaining fans among the general public as well. The experience of creating an original brand from scratch, which Mr. Matsubara has been dealing with ever since he became toji, has had a positive impact on the other sake that Matsuya Brewery has been making for many years, and the future of this small brewery is beginning to look brighter.

The post We want to create an original brand. Matsuya Sake Brewery’s passion for “Ryuki” / Fujioka City, Gunma Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.