Sakaiminato in western Tottori Prefecture boasts one of the largest landings of snow crab in Japan. Sakaiminato boasts the largest catch of red snow crab in Japan, and many processors offer their own unique products. Among them, Maeda Suisan’s crab rice and doria, which are made with freshly caught red snow crab, are attracting attention.

Sakaiminato, one of the largest crab landings in Japan

Sakaiminato City, adjacent to Yonago City in Tottori Prefecture and Matsue City in Shimane Prefecture, is located on the northern tip of the Yumigahama Peninsula, surrounded on three sides by the Sea of Japan, and boasts the largest catch of red snow crab in Japan.

Sakaiminato is also known as the “distribution center of western Japan” because of the variety of seafood landed throughout the year: firefly squid in spring, fresh bluefin tuna in summer, Matsuba crab and red snow crab from fall to winter, and mackerel, sardines, and squid. It is also known as the “distribution center of western Japan” because of its abundance of crab processing plants, which attract crabs from all over the country.

Tottori is proud of its Matsuba crab and red snow crab

There are two main types of crabs caught in Sakaiminato: Matsuba crab and red snow crab. Matsuba crab is another name for male snow crab, which is caught in the Japan Sea in the San’in region. It is found at depths of 200 to 500 meters and has a tough shell with a dense meat. It can be eaten raw, cooked, frozen, or any other way. On the other hand, red snow crabs live in the deep sea at around 1,000 meters and have soft shells with high water content. It is juicy and has a sweetness unique to the crab, but because of its high water content, it loses its freshness quickly. In addition, once frozen, the crab tends to drip when thawed, and the flavor is lost. The skill of each processor is to keep the crab fresh and process it in the most delicious way possible.

Maeda Suisan, which has steered the company away from sardines to processing crabs

Among the various processing companies, Tetsuya Maeda of Maeda Suisan is the one who has been working on side dishes that are easy for consumers to eat without losing the flavor of crab. The company was founded in 1960, when Maeda’s grandfather ran a dried sardine processing plant in Shikoku. Later, affected by a decline in fish catches, he looked for another port and ended up in Sakaiminato.

At first, they caught sardines by seine fishing and processed them by drying them in the sun, but the catch of sardines decreased in Sakaiminato as well. When they realized that they needed to process other fish as well as sardines, the processing of red snow crabs became the talk of the town, and they turned their attention to processing crabs.

Seeking added value that only we can provide

Since 1985, however, crab catches have been on the decline. His father had told him that he had the option of closing the company, but he could not simply quit when he thought about the results he had achieved and the employees he had hired. Without a clear answer, his predecessor passed away, and Mr. Maeda took over the company at the age of 33. As he searched for a direction for the company, Mr. Maeda said, “I still want to deliver the deliciousness of Sakaiminato crabs. I want to produce not only boiled peeled crabs, but also processed products with special characteristics that will not be affected by the decline in resources.

Developed “Kani Okowa” (rice topped with crab), an easy-to-eat crab dish

From there, the company enlisted the help of experts and repeatedly made prototypes of side dishes that could be easily eaten with crab. The result was “Red Snow Crab and Crab Okowa,” which can be easily heated in a microwave and also makes use of the crab’s shell. The cooking liquid from boiling the crab meat was used in a luxurious way to enhance the flavor of the crab. The rice is made from locally produced “Himenomochi” glutinous rice, which is known for its firmness. The glutinous rice is glutinous, has no crab smell, and is not too strong. The result is a refreshing crab rice bowl.

At the beginning of its development, the company asked the cooperation of Japanese-style pubs and inns that had been wholesaling peeled crab for some time, and offered it to visitors to Tottori. The rice with full of crab flavor was very popular, and the recognition of crab rice gradually increased.

The packaging was also designed to make it a popular choice as a souvenir of Tottori at souvenir stores and online stores. The product can be defrosted in a microwave oven without removing the crab shell by hand, which “has helped to popularize crab,” says Maeda.

In addition, as word spread that Maeda Suisan is capable of processing products other than peeled crab, the company received an increasing number of inquiries asking if it could make something like this. In addition to its own products, Maeda Suisan also developed and sold side dishes for Osechi cuisine and gifts for department stores, and the production of okowa and other processed products became a major source of support in terms of management.
In 2010, the company won the top prize at the “Miyako Tottori Specialty Food Contest,” a gathering of Tottori Prefecture’s specialty products, for its convenience and taste. In 2011, the company received the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award, the highest award in the new product development category of the “Central Contest for Superior Hometown Foods,” which recognizes food products that make the most of regional characteristics. This was the first time for a product to win the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award in Tottori Prefecture as a whole, and the company’s name recognition has increased.

The secret to the delicious taste is the ingenious heating process and the oil that locks in the flavor.

The flavor of crab is sensitive to heat, and the aroma will be lost if too much time passes after heating. In addition, since red snow crab contains a lot of water, it is important to minimize dripping after thawing.

Maeda Suisan does not simply boil the snow crab to preserve its flavor, but also steams or bakes it to suit the product. The heating time is also thoroughly adjusted according to the individual differences in the crabs, so that the chewiness and flavor of the meat is preserved to the maximum extent possible.
In addition, to enhance the crab’s flavor and deliciousness, we have developed an original crab flavor oil called “Grandqui Oil”. Crab shells and meat are simmered in the oil to lock in the flavor and deliciousness. The additive-free, colorant-free, and fragrance-free oil is also used in okowa (rice topped with rice flour), which gives the dish a rich crab flavor similar to that of baked crab.

Original products packed with the power of crab

The high reputation of the okowa has led to the development of a variety of processed products. Currently, “Red Snow Crab Doria” is the second most popular product along with okowa. The bechamel sauce used in the doria is made from milk produced by Daisen Dairy, a local dairy cooperative also known for its “white rose milk. The rice, of course, is also grown in Tottori Prefecture.

The “Kanimiso Korayaki” (crab brain shell baked in a shell filled with crab miso, made by the traditional method of boiling down crab meat without using any thickening agent) can be served as a gift by pouring sake over it and searing it after the meal.

“Crabs will save the earth” Believe in the potential of crabs

In recent years, crabs have attracted attention not only for their delicious taste, but also for the chitin/chitosan contained in their shells. Chitin is a type of animal dietary fiber contained in the shell that is hydrolyzed into chitosan, which can be digested and absorbed by the human body. Chitin is used in a wide variety of ways, including as surgical thread and artificial skin in the medical field, as a fertilizer for agricultural fields, and as a cosmetic and health food in our daily lives.

The crab’s meat is used for food, its shell is used as a vessel, and its shell is used in the medical field and in the fields. Crabs are delicious to eat, have ingredients that are good for the body, and have almost no parts that can be discarded. And most importantly, everyone who receives a crab is happy. We believe in the possibility that crabs can save the earth, and we would like to deliver the charm of crabs to the world.

Crabs can be used in a variety of ways, not to mention in delicious rice balls and doria. Maeda Suisan is determined to continue to introduce the appeal of crab to the world, and we cannot take our eyes off of them.

The post Maeda Suisan, “Crabs Save the Planet”, is conveying the appeal of crabs to the world. first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The Saganoseki district in Oita City, Oita Prefecture, has long been a town with a thriving fishing industry. The area faces the Bungo Channel between Oita and Ehime prefectures, and the horse mackerel and mackerel caught there are named “Seki horse mackerel” and “Seki mackerel,” respectively, and are widely known as one of the best brand fish in Japan. What are the roots of “Sekiaji” horse mackerel and “Sekisaba” mackerel, which are born after passing a certain strict control process, and what are the thoughts of the people involved?

Brand-name fish from the Bungo Channel

The Bungo Channel, known as one of the best fishing grounds in Japan, is a sea area famous for catching a wide variety of high quality fish. Many fish and shellfish gather here in search of plankton generated by the collision of the nutrient-rich cold water of the Seto Inland Sea and the warm water of the Kuroshio Current from the Pacific Ocean. The area between the Saganoseki Peninsula and Cape Sada in Ehime Prefecture is called “Hayayasu no Seto,” where the tides are particularly swift.

One of the characteristics of horse mackerels and mackerels living there is that they do not mix well with fish from other areas of the sea and form independent schools. Because they grow strong in the swift tides, horse mackerels, for example, grow up to have small heads and fat bodies. Mackerel also have little interaction with other fish, so they contain almost no anisakis, a parasitic worm, and can be eaten raw. This is the origin of the name “Sekiaji” (horse mackerel) and “Sekisaba” (mackerel), which were regarded as exceptional by fishermen.

Rules for becoming a Sekiaji or Sekisaba

What makes Seki horse mackerel and mackerel different from ordinary fish? It begins with the requirement that the fish be caught only in the “Hayatsuki Seto,” and also with a series of rules that the Saganoseki Branch of the Oita Prefecture Fisheries Cooperative Association has adopted to ensure that the quality and freshness of the fish are maintained. This is true even when it comes to fishing methods. For example, net fishing, which is considered appropriate from the standpoint of efficiency, is not suitable in this region, where the tides are swift. The use of nets causes fish to rub against each other and against the nets, which results in damage to the fish and prevents them from maintaining their quality.

The reason for using “ipponzuri” is not only to ensure the quality of the fish, but also to protect the natural environment of the fishing grounds. The “Hayatsuki Seto” is not a large area, so fishermen do not catch large numbers of fish, but instead share the limited resources among themselves, thereby helping to protect the fishing grounds.

In addition, the fish that have just been caught are in a state of excitement, and if they are placed in the same tank as other fish, they will be harmed. While many people have the common image that “freshly caught fish tastes the best,” the fish are allowed to settle in order to eliminate lactic acid and stress substances, thereby increasing their umami content before being shipped out. Although this involves time-consuming and risky management, it is a process that has been followed for a long time in order to ensure thorough quality control, to maintain freshness, and above all, to deliver delicious fish.

We spare no pains to preserve freshness

The first step after returning to the fishing port is a process called “Tsurugai,” which is performed only by this fishermen’s cooperative in Japan. In this method, the fish caught by the fishermen are visually identified by the staff of the cooperative as soon as they are scooped into the boat’s fish tank with a ladle, and the fish are counted and priced in 100g increments. The fish are then weighed and purchased from the fishermen. This is a divine technique that can only be performed by staff members who are skilled in the art through their many years of experience. If the same process were to be done by machine, the fish would be severely damaged, and since the number of boats returning to the fishermen’s cooperative at the same time would be concentrated, the waiting time would be longer, further increasing the burden on the fish. All of this is done with the fish’s freshness in mind. After that, the fish must undergo a number of processes to maintain freshness, such as “kikkeshime,” which removes blood from the fish, and “neratori,” which delays rigor mortis for up to 12 hours. The fact that the entire process, from purchase to processing and shipping, is handled by employees of the fishermen’s cooperative, rather than fishermen, is also extremely rare in this industry.

Thus, the fishing grounds, fishing methods, fishermen’s affiliations, and processing methods are all regulated. Behind this was the desire to “stabilize the fishermen’s livelihood” as well as to maintain the quality of the fish.

A brand that continues to protect the fishermen for their livelihood

It was around 1990, between the Showa and Heisei eras, that Seki horse mackerel and mackerel were registered as trademarks and branded. The primary reason for the Saganoseki Branch of the Oita Prefecture Fishermen’s Association to go into full-scale business was to protect the livelihood of the fishermen. At that time, fishermen traded directly with local brokers, but prices varied depending on the timing of transactions. This also created problems for the fishermen’s income. They began to feel a sense of crisis that their catch was not being valued fairly, and set about establishing centralized rules to protect the fishermen’s livelihoods and the taste of the fish, as well as to maintain quality. The Sekiaji horse mackerel and Sekisaba mackerel branded in this way became the pioneers of branded fish in the Japanese fishing industry, not to mention their quality and taste.

The Sekiaji and Sekisaba brands were created by our predecessors. Now it is our mission to continue to protect them, and at the same time we are acutely aware of the difficulties involved.” Daisuke Takase of the Saganoseki Branch of the Oita Prefecture Fisheries Cooperative Association says. The introduction of a system that did not exist when the branding was first started has enabled the data to be converted from catch to wholesale, and the quality of the fish has improved dramatically, he says.

Passing on the culture of eating fish raw and connecting it to new successors.

On the other hand, the inevitable and serious issues are poor fishing due to climate change and the aging of the fishermen. Currently, there are approximately 400 fishermen belonging to this fishermen’s cooperative. The average age of the fishermen is 70 years old. Although this is an occupation that allows people to remain active in the sea throughout their lives, we cannot hide our surprise at the high age of the fishermen.

The aging of the population and the lack of successors are major issues not only in the fishing industry in Japan today, but also in agriculture and various other fields. In Japan, the culture of eating fish raw is deeply rooted, and we want people to eat fish raw anywhere in the country. To do so, we must insist on freshness. That should be the case not only for us, but for all fishing villages in Japan, but perhaps it is not being communicated well.” Mr. Takase says it is important to communicate more about the process of creating such brand-name fish, including the feelings of the producers. Simply by delivering tasty fish and increasing the number of people eating fish, we can give back to the producers. He went on to say that if the culture of eating fish in Japan could be rekindled, it would help solve the shortage of successors.

The taste produced by risking life and limb to fish, and the desire to deliver it

When you taste Seki horse mackerel or mackerel, there is none of the fish’s inherent odor, but rather a clear flavor with firm flesh elasticity and sweetness. This may sound exaggerated, but many people may overturn their previous concepts of horse mackerel and mackerel. This delicious taste is the result of efforts produced through thorough quality control and unique rules. Behind the scenes, Mr. Takase says, one must not forget the fishermen who put their lives on the line to protect this flavor. Ippon fishing is a one-man operation. Although there are many risks involved, the fishermen and everyone who works for the cooperative has a sense of mission to “deliver the best possible product to the customer” engraved in their hearts.

“It tastes best when eaten raw.”

Although it is difficult to make a general statement depending on the region and fishing method, the price of Seki horse mackerel and mackerel is two to five times higher than that of commonly available horse mackerel and mackerel. The delicious taste that cannot be replaced by the price, the reliable quality, and the pride of the fishermen are the reasons why they have been loved by many people for more than 30 years since their birth.

The possibilities of Oita’s pride, Sekiaji and Seki Saba, will continue to expand endlessly while preserving and evolving its history.

The post Oita’s Sekiaji horse mackerel and Seki mackerel “Oita Prefecture Fishery Cooperative Association”, Saganoseki Branch first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The secret of the delicious taste of Hiroshima’s oysters

Hiroshima is famous for its oysters, making up more than 60% of total domestic production. Kanawa Oyster, located in Etajima city, produces oysters made to be eaten raw.
“Oysters filter about 30 liters of sea water per hour so it’s like a natural filter. It will grow if there is a lot of organic matter, but it also affects the flavor. We’ve been in business for more than 150 years and we’ve continued to pursue the cleanest, purest water in Hiroshima Bay. That is how we ended up here in 1973. We now have our rafts scattered around the uninhabited Okurokamishima Island for our oysters. The water is very pure, so it takes time for the oysters to grow, but we’re able to maintain the quality for them to be eaten raw.

The number one recommendation

The fourth generation Tatsuo Miho president of Kanawa Oyster tells us, filled with pride for the quality oysters he produces. His number one recommendation is “virgin oyster” with its rich taste.
“Most oysters are grown for one to one and a half years, but the virgin oysters are only 3 to 4 months old. They’re small since they haven’t reproduced, but the taste is excellent. Only a few can be harvested, so they cost about 10 times more.
An oyster is removed from raft and opened with a knife. Inside is a small oyster, about the size of a small clam. It’s like taking a sip of oyster extract. There is no bitterness or smell, just pure great taste.
Of course, all of their products are just as delicious. We try their fried oysters, rice with oysters, oysters in oil and oyster casserole. Each dish was absolutely delicious.

Endless ways to enjoy

“Oysters are thought to be winter items but can actually be enjoyed year round. I want to promote oysters to change the industry so people can enjoy oysters even in the summer.”
His hopes even those who aren’t fond of oysters will at least give them a try. A taste of his oysters will certainly change their mind.

The post Kanawa Oyster – raising “virgin oysters” which have never reproduced first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Out to sea with the sunrise

Of course fishing starts early in the morning. We accompanied the harvesting of cultivated ”wakame”.
”Wakame does not like sun. To keep the quality, we have to harvest between 1 am to sunrise.” said Atsuo Kitada who works at Omoe Fisheries Cooperative Association. In addition to that, they harvest during this time because the ocean is relatively calm.
Nakata joined the men in harvesting cultivated ”wakame” as soon as the sun was up. It is of course dark all around. But the day had already began for ”wakame” fishermen.

Challenging the ”wakame” harvest

Iwate prefecture is famous for cultivating ”wakame”, Currently, the total production of ”wakame” in Japan is about 60,000 tons. Within the Sanriku area, Iwate prefecture produces 25,000 tons, Miyagi prefecture produces 15,000 tons, a total of 40,000 tons, making Iwate prefecture the number one in ”wakame” production in Japan. Of that, Omoe produces 3000 tons. Every year during June to August, they put the natural seedling of ”mekabu” seaweed on a jute rope and let it grow in the sea. In November they wrap the jute rope around a thicker rope. In January and February the water from melted snow goes into the sea, and the ”wakame” grows quickly. In general, they harvest in March. ”Wakame” is an annual plant so they harvest everything by the middle of April.
Omoe peninsula is at the most eastern spot of Honshu. The characteristic of the ”wakame” from this region is the thickness. Omoe is facing the outer ocean so the tide is very fast, and the ”wakame” is massaged by the tide making it exceptionally thick. They sell it under the ”thick wakame” branding.
The tool they use for harvesting are sickles. As the word suggests, they literary harvest the seaweed from the cultivating ground. Nakata was handed a sickle to help with the harvest. This in fact is a quite hard labor. Of course when we went to interview in spring the wakame was fully grown.

”Wakame” in the warm tide. ”Kombu” in the cold tide.

When the boatful of harvested ”wakame” is brought to shore, the first thing that they need to do is to boil it in sea water. And then they are pickled in salt for preservation. The day only ends after going through these processes. When the season for ”wakame” ends, the ”kombu” season starts, providing work throughout the year.
”Wakame” is a seaweed that grows in warm tidal water while ”kombu” grows in cold tidal water. Kitada told us that the characteristic of the sea of Omoe is that both can grow well.
Furthermore, Omoe Fisheries Cooperative produces a brand of ”wakame” called ”First Spring”. This is young ”wakame” harvested early in the season between January to February. It is high in nutrition and tender, so it is delicious in ”raw wakame shabu shabu”.

Everyone in the family participates in ”wakame” cultivation

Omoe peninsula was hit hard by the Great East Japan Earthquake. They showed us the scars of the tsunami that remains on the rocks on the beach. However, in the midst of the huge damage, during the early days following the earthquake, people chipped in and purchased and repaired a boat. By the end of May, they were able to harvest wild ”wakame”. Furthermore, they fixed the cultivating facility and processing factory, and 129 of the 181 people who worked there have returned to their jobs.
For most families who cultivate ”wakame”, the whole family is involved in the business. As described earlier, it is hard labor for the elderly, but the young people have also joined in. Junichi Nakamura who worked with us harvesting ”wakame” told us, ”Many young people are returning home from the cities.”
Nakata asked, ”What is the reason that growing ”wakame” is so popular and why are there many young people here?” Kitada replied ”We have jobs here, and we have an environment for them to work.”
The wealth of the ocean and the power of people. They support the ”wakame” of Iwate.

The post ”Omoe Fishery Cooperative　Association” ”Thick Wakame” that grows in the ocean of Sanriku first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The importance of the buyers – saury professionals

The fishing industry of Miyagi is No. 2 in Japan, following Hokkaido. There are many famous fishing ports such as Ishinomaki and Kesennuma, and these ports provide us with many kinds of seafood.

On this occasion, we visited Onagawa fishing market. The specialty of Onagawa is, needless to say, saury, a seasonal delicacy of fall. Other fishing ports of Miyagi have different specialties; Kesennuma is famous for pole-and-line bonito, Ishinomaki offers a wide variety of fish caught using ground haul netting, and Shiogama has large landings of tuna, caught in the nearby sea. The fishing boats arrive at the ports, and the fish is sold to the buyers via the fish market. In every fishing port, there are buyers who specialize in each kind of fish.

”Onagawa buys at the highest price”, a fisherman told me. The buyers at Onagawa purchase at higher prices than other fishing ports. So most of the saury fishing boats head for Onagawa. Of course, the buyers at Onagawa are very strict connoisseurs of saury. Each fishing boat tries their best to land the freshest fish, so Onagawa has the best quality of saury. Onagawa ranks among the top 3 in saury landings in the nation.

Gradually adding facilities after the natural disaster

Onagawa used to be a very big fish market, with sales of 17 billion yen per year, but sales gradually declined as eating habits of the Japanese changed. Fish was not being consumed as much, and this had a serious effect on sales. On top of that the Great East Japan Earthquake happened, greatly impacting Onagawa.
According to Kato, the senior managing director of Onagawa Fish Market, who showed us around, ”we lost everything”.
After the disaster, the market reopened somehow, and the fish landings have resumed little by little. However, what was most needed was the refrigerating facilities. Only 30% of the fish landed at Onagawa Port is shipped to other ports as fresh fish. The remaining 70% must be kept frozen for later processing. Therefore large capacity refrigeration system is absolutely essential.
The town was hard hit by the quake, and lost the refrigerating facilities, and landings had to be limited in 2011.

At the time of the visit, the facilities were being re-built little by little. There was construction to build the biggest pier. In October 2012, a large storage facility was built with support from Qatar.
We were shown the brand new facility, and noticed that it was designed to serve as a shelter in case of an emergency, based on lessons learned from the tsunami. Most importantly, the facility was designed to protect lives, so that people can work safely in the coastal areas.

The most delicious way to eat saury fish

“We were able to reopen thanks to the support from all around the nation. We are ever so grateful. But, you know, the best support is having consumers enjoy our fish.” said Kato. So Nakata asked, ”what’s the most delicious way to eat saury?”. ”Sashimi”, he replied.
””Sashimi ”is definitely the best. The fish is so fresh. It tastes better than tuna ”sashimi”! Also, you can chop it in small pieces and mix with green onion and ”miso”, that’s delicious too.”
Hearing him talk made our mouths water. The most basic dish may be grilled saury, and that’s good too, but minced fish balls in soup is also a favorite of the locals. The season for saury runs from early September till late November. There are many people waiting for this delicacy Onagawa is so proud of.

The post “Onagawa Fish Market” – An important fish market where saury professionals gather first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Out to sea, early in the morning.

It was before six o’clock. The sun hadn’t yet risen, but Nakata was on a boat. He was out at sea early in the morning to experience ”nori” harvesting with Futoshi Aizawa a ”nori” farmer.
Just like tea harvesting, there is first flush, second flush and third flush of ”nori” harvesting. We were taken to the first flush harvesting. We knew it would be cold, so we were prepared, but it was so very cold. ”It not that cold today.” laughed Aizawa (the interview took place in late November). At the height of the harvesting season in January to February, the temperature goes down to minus 8 degrees Celsius. It made us shiver just thinking of such cold temperatures.
Harvesting began in these cold conditions. When the rafts were pulled out of the water, the nets were totally covered with black ”nori”. The nets are fed into harvesting machines. One raft consists of six nets that are 2 meters wide and 20 meters long. Aizawa and his team managed 300 rafts.

“Nori” fit to be presented to the Emperor

Aizawa’s ”nori” farm is in Omagarihama, Higashi Matsushima-shi. Omagarihama’s ”nori” is valued as the ”nori” of highest quality. It was honored as the ”Nori presented to the Imperial Family” at contests held in Shiwahiko Shrine and Shiogama Shrine for 6 consecutive years until 2011.

Restoring seaweed farming after the earthquake disaster

However, everything was lost with the Great East Japan Earthquake. Everything that was build up over many years was lost – the lives of fellow workers, houses, facilities and much more. Many fishermen quit ”nori” farming. But Aizawa did not give up. He began to search for a way to rebuild soon after the disaster, and after one year, he began to made headway. It was just a few days before our visit that he was able to harvest for the first time since the disaster.
He used to work as a ”team”, but now Aizawa and two colleagues are working as a cooperative group.
”But in the future, we hope to be working as rivals again.” said Aizawa.

All you need is rice and “nori”.

During our visit, the harvesting continued non-stop. Nakata helped. When the harvesting was finally over, Nakata asked ”what sort of ”nori” are you aiming for?”. Aizawa answered, ”something that is so delicious that all you need is ”nori” and rice as a meal.”

”The most delicious ”nori” is the one straight out of the sea and dried. When lightly toasted, it smells absolutely delicious and goes very well with steamed rice.”, he said, and he took a sheet of ”nori” he had just processed the day before, and roasted it over the stove. A savory aroma filled the air, and when placed into the mouth, it melted smoothly away. It had a very fresh taste. And the broth made of raw ”nori”, which can only be enjoyed at the beach, tasted fresh too. It was a luxury, with just a drop of soy sauce.

Bringing Omagari seaweed to more people

Aizawa shared his resolution.
”We have resumed ”nori” farming, but that’s not enough. We want to reestablish awareness for Omagari ”nori”. So we need to keep on making delicious ”nori”.”

The post Creating the most delicious “nori” “Nori Fisherman Futoshi Aizawa” first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The sea where baby oysters grow

Oysters are the fruit of the Sea of Sanriku. And Mangokuura in Ishinomaki-shi is the center of oyster production. We visited Suenaga Kaisan Co., Ltd. During our visit, we had visited Shin Hatakeyama in Kesennuma. The oysters he was cultivating were for shipping, the ones that are consumed in homes. Suenaga Kaisan also makes oysters for shipping as well as processed oysters, but most importantly, they cultivate ”seed oysters (baby oysters)”.
Seed oysters are babies of cultured oysters. There are only a few seas in the world where seed oysters are available. Mangokuura is one of them. The seed oysters grown in Mangokuura are shipped not only within Japan, but to France and the US where they are cultured.

What are seed oysters?

Can you imagine what seed oysters look like? We couldn’t, so we asked Kanji Suenaga president and representative director of Suenaga Kaisan.
First, about 50 scallop shells are attached to a rope. During the spawning season of oysters in July, the ropes are lowered into the sea so that the oyster eggs floating in the sea will stick to the scallop shells and begin to grow there. After about three months, they are thinned to leave only good oysters, and are lowered into the sea again to grow. Finally, the seed oysters are ready.

The seed oysters are then shipped to the oyster farmers, where the farmers will hang the oyster beds from the rafts in the sea allowing them to fully grow for shipping. For a detailed description of cultivation rafts, please refer to the article about Hatakeyama in Kesennuma. According to Hatakeyama, Suenaga Kaisan （水産ではなく海産のはず） is a master of seed oyster culture.
Cultivating seed oysters by using scallop shells to draw the floating oyster eggs. It definitely requires being in tune with nature.
”Oyster farmers, just like fishermen, don’t work according to the calendar, but the waxing and waning of the moon, the lunar calendar. Tides of the sea are important.”, said Suenaga.

Sanriku Coast was too blessed.

Suenaga told us an interesting story. The legend has it that the oysters of this area were brought by tortoises carrying them on their backs. The coastal area of Sanriku has been blessed with so much from the sea that such a legend was born.

”Sanriku is so rich in marine products. We can do anything. If we can’t succeed with oysters, we can try ”wakame” farming. If ”wakame” isn’t successful, then we can try ”hoya”. It doesn’t work like that in the other coastal areas of Miyagi. Either the waves are too rough, or the sea is too shallow. You cannot farm if the sea is too shallow. Sanriku has a deeply indented rias coastline, where the sea is deep and suitable for marine farming.” said Suenaga. ”But,” he continued,
”I think we were too blessed. Everything was easy. We could live off the blessings of the sea. We didn’t try to move ahead. When the fishing industry in general began to decline, we couldn’t keep up with it. That’s why we are now concentrating on food processing as well.”

The seed oysters of Mangokuura miraculously survived the devastating Great East Japan Earthquake in 2011.
One of his goals is to build a stable industry in addition to oyster farming. Suenaga was already on his way to his next challenge.

The post Farming seed oysters “Oyster Farming Suenaga Kaisan” first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Oysters are a specialty of spring!?

The taste of fresh oysters is a milky flavor that melts in your mouth. You can also enjoy them in hot pot which warms the body. In winter, one longs for oyster dishes. It is generally thought that oysters are a specialty of winter. Actually, the season for oysters is spring, Shin Hatakeyama, the oyster farmer told us.
”In spring, planktons increase in the sea, and the oysters that feed on them are the most delicious.” The oysters of Miyagi are somewhat smaller than the oysters of Hiroshima, so they are suited to be eaten fresh. The oysters of Miyagi have a rich taste and intense flavor.

Oysters nurtured in the sea

Hatakeyama took us on his small boat, and showed us the farm. It was quite close to the coastline within a bay, yet the sea was 20 meters deep. In the water, there were huge wooden rafts about 15 square meters each. Underneath the rafts hung many ropes with a huge amount of oyster shells attached to them. These oyster shells are beds for baby oysters. There are approximately 300 seed oysters attached to a rope, and the oysters grow in the sea, eating plankton.
”We put the seed oysters in the sea in spring, and we ship them in the fall or winter of the following year. In the second spring, we pull up all the ropes, place the oysters in a hot water bath, so that nothing else grows on them. It’s just like weeding the field. Apart from that, we just leave them in the sea. It takes about two years from seed oysters until shipping.”
Oysters in a hot water bath! That was surprising. Of about 300 seed oysters, only 100 to 150 oysters grow big enough to be shipped.

Sanriku Bay is a perfect place for oyster farming

We were out on the ocean, but the boat did not rock very much. The calm sea within the bay makes it suitable for oyster farming. ”Miyagi has an active oyster farming industry because of the calm sea. ” explained Hatakeyama. For a industry to take root in the region, nature has great influence.

After the Quake.

The Moune area in Kesennuma-shi where Hatakeyama has his farm, was also hard hit by the Tsunami. The 70 farming rafts and boats he owned were all washed away. It was so devastating that the number of oyster farmers was reduced to less than half. But the seed oysters of Mangokuura in Ishinomaki survived. That left great hope for reconstruction. ”If the seed oysters had been washed away too, the oyster industry of Miyagi would have been totally finished.”he said.
He has now resumed oyster farming, working together with locals as a cooperative. He is now harvesting and shipping oysters.

Revival with oysters

”We have restarted, but I think it’s still far from reconstruction. My goal is to develop processed products such as smoked oysters that can be sold year round and at a stable price. I want it to be another pillar of our business. I listen to the opinions of not only the local people but also foreigners to develop various new products.”
He has set up a non-profit organization called Peace Nature Labo for the development of new processed food products, and he is also committed to planning the rebuilding of the local community. His aim is not just rebuilding the ways of life before the disaster, but to develop further beyond.

The post A Miyagi delicacy “Oyster Farmer Shin Hatakeyama” first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Tokyo Bay at sunrise

Nakata goes on board a fishing boat just as the sun rises in Tokyo Bay. When we requested an interview with Yoshiyuki Saida, a conger eel fisherman belonging to Yokohama Fishermen’s Union Shiba Branch, he invited us to go fishing with him. Saida employs a method called ”tsusu-ryo” to catch the eels. He inserts feed such as sardines and squid into a grey tube then sinks them to the bottom of the ocean, and the eels are drawn to the smell of the feed. On the boat, Nakata helped pull the tubes up from the ocean.
In order to preserve the environment, the fishing gear have small holes in them to avoid catching the smaller eels. A surprising number of eels are caught even with the holes.
”How do you choose where to set the traps?” Nakata asked a basic question.
”I check the size and the number of eels caught and plan the next location. I make a prediction based on everyday experience,” Saida told us.
By the time they have retrieved all the traps, the sun had risen high up in the sky.

The appeal of being a fishermen

”What do you like about being a fisherman?” asked Nakata. ”I’m the most excited when I catch fish where I set the trap based on my experience.” ”There are times I don’t catch any fish at all, and it feels like failing a test. But I like the ocean, so just being on the boat makes me happy. That’s what I like the most.” he told us as he looked out to the sea.
Saida was born in a fishing town where he grew up around boats. He would ride a small motorboat and race with friends. At any rate, he grew up surrounded by the ocean.
”Even if you run into problems and get stuck out at sea, people all come to your rescue because they all grew up around the same harbor.”

Hot and fluffy ”shiroyaki”

As soon as they go ashore, ”We’ll get these eels grilled into a ’shiroyaki’ right away,” Saida said as he cut the eel. The skin glistens golden and the meat is beautifully white. He handed the meat to Nakata. ”It’s soft!” Nakata is surprised. Freshly cut eel is soft. According to Saida, eel from Tokyo Bay is especially soft.
We immediately have the eel grilled into ”shiroyaki” and took a bite. The eel fresh from the grill was hot and fluffy. ”The texture is entirely different from fresh water eel but it’s still very good,” commented Nakata looking quite satisfied.
Saida’s eels are served at NPO ”Community Cafe Sakura Chaya” and other local eateries, and are served as ”shiroyaki” or ”anago-don.” We highly recommend you give Tokyo Bay conger eel dishes a try.

The post Conger Eel Fishing, Yoshiyuki Saida – Fishing in Tokyo Bay first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Gifts from the sea in the San’in region

What comes to your mind as winter seafood?
Oyster, yellowtail, monkfish, or puffer fish? They are typical winter food and ingredients of very popular hot pot. There is another important seafood in winter: Matsuba crab. Hyogo boasts Japan’s largest catch of Matsuba crab in terms of volume and value.

Origin of Matsuba Crab

Matsuba crab is generally called ”zuwai-gani” in Japan. The name is specific to the San’in region spreading from Shimane to Kyoto. The male crab caught in the Sea of Japan has been called ”Matsuba crab” since the olden days.

Crowded market

Nakata visited the market on a nice spring day in March. The fishing season for Matsuba crabs is from November 6 to March 20. The season was almost finished. Unfortunately, we could not get on a boat to have a look the actual fishing. However, we visited the market to see an auction of unloaded crabs.
”Matsuba” (matsuba means pine leaf in Japanese) crab is said to have been named after the long thin legs that look like pine leaves. Numerous crabs were placed with the belly up on the floor of the market. The bidding went fast, which itself was rather overwhelming. When all the deals were done, crabs were carried to restaurants and processing plants all over Japan.
You can visit auctions operated by Tajima Fishery Cooperative and Hamasaka-cho Fishery Cooperatives. Visitors can purchase crabs directly from the fishery cooperatives. Come to discover the vigorous market auction and Matsuba crabs.

The post Matsuba crab, the symbol of winter taste – Hamasaka-cho Fishery Cooperative first appeared on NIHONMONO.