A temple with a history of 1200 years

Risshakuji is a temple of the Tendai Sect in Yamagata, Yamagata Prefecture. Know by the name of Yamadera, it has gathered worshippers as the temple for breaking bad karma.
“Today we are holding a ceremony to exhibit the statue of worship which we do only every 50 years.” Sato, the volunteer guide told us.
The statue of Yakushi Nyorai (Healing Buddha) is designated as an Important National Cultural Asset, and is unveiled only every 50 years, and today was the day. Risshakuji became a temple to keep incense burning for the famous priest En-nin (794-864 AD), and to keep the pledge to perpetually carry out the transcribing of the Sutras, for four years as one set.
During the Muromachi era, the temple was damaged in the war and its status declined, but later it received the protection from the Mogami clan who were the lord of the Yamagata Castle. By the time of Yoshimitsu Mogami, they regained all their glory. In the Edo period, they received 1420 “goku” (“goku” indicates value of asset. 1420 goku is equivalent to an asset value of about 30 million yen in current economy), and they were able to rebuild the lost lecture hall .

The holy flame continues to burn

Risshakuji is often described as the “temple where the flame of history is”. This is because of the holy flame that originated at the Enryakuji temple. When Enryakuji was destroyed by Nobunaga Oda, the flame was given to Risshakuji. Then returned again from Risshakuji when Enryakuji was rebuilt. The flame still lives on, and that is the reason why it is still called the temple of the flame of history.
Risshakuji is also known by its alias of ”Yamadera”. By its name, (mountain temple) many may think of the 1015 stone steps that lead to the inner sanctuary. The steps begin at the main lecture hall, Nemoto Chudo, where the statue of the Yakushi Nyorai that En-nin himself sculptured is housed. Visitors will start their 1015 step walk to the inner building from there．

Mountains in the sunlight

Risshakuji is the setting for the famous ”haiku” by Basho Matsuo

“In the utter silence
A cicada’s voice alone
Penetrates the rocks.”

Which was written in his collection “The Narrow road to the Deep North”(Oku-no-hosomichi) . Basho is said to have visited Risshakuji on that journey and wrote this ”haiku”.
Just as we started panting walking up the stairs, we found a monument about Basho’s visit to the temple. We could feel that indescribable “utter silence” engulf us. The hall that stood by the road as we neared the inner sanctuary is the Kaizando hall. It is said that the remains of En-nin is buried in the cave under the cliff. The chief priest brings meals to En-nin in the morning and in the evening every day.
This spot is also known for its fantastic view. We climbed up further from Kaizando and got to Godaido. It was still early in the morning, and we could see the mountains in the morning light. “This is beautiful.” Nakata uttered. Mr.Sato, who was next to us told us “En-nin-san is said to have said that this is his soul’s home.” The mountains shining golden was certainly a home that cleansed our souls.

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Registered as World Heritage Site in 2011

The Hiraizumi area was registered as World Heritage Site in 2011 under the title ”Hiraizumi – Temples, Gardens and Archaeological Sites Representing the Buddhist Pure Land, in which Motsuji is included.
Motsuji was founded by Jikaku Daishi Ennin over 1000 years ago in 850. This is about the at the same time when Chusonji Temple was built. After that, Motohira and Hidehira from Oshu Fujiwara family created a huge monastery to revitalize the temple. Many halls and monasteries were built and the temple was said to be larger than Chusonji Temple at the time. Later, in 1573, during the Age of the Warring States, it was burned in combat and all the buildings were burned. As the power of the Fujiwara family declined, all the halls were destroyed after encountering many disasters. However, the garden and the ruins of the monastery remained in nearly perfect shape.

The reconstructed main hall originally built in the Heian period

The main hall was built in 1989. According to head priest Kojun Shirayama who guided us, the building was re-constructed based on the building style from the Heian period.
Nakata shared his impression after seeing the main building, ”Vermillion red painting is more associated with Shinto shrines.” Shirayama explained, ”Yes it certainly does. However Heian period was s time when Shinto and Buddhism was fused together. So there was no difference between shrines and temples. They both existed at the same place. It was only after Meiji period when the two religions were made distinct from each other.”

But why did they choose the style of the Heian period for re-construction? It was because the garden remained in the style of the Heian period. The garden which is also called Paradise (Jodo) Garden was created in the space of about 20 hectares. The design is said to be based on the oldest known garden book ”Sakutei-ki” written in the Heian period. The garden is built around the Oizumigaike pond, and the ”araiso” style waterfront and the ”kare sansui” style landscaping replicates famous landscapes of Japan with the combination of manmade and natural beauty.
”For better or for worse, this area did not have large scale development projects so that is why the Heian period garden and ruins still exist untouched.” Shirayama told us. They wanted to create a main hall to match the garden.

“Hono Enbu”, dance by the monks

Motsuji, as mentioned earlier, is a part of the World Heritage Site. In the middle of the site, there is the Jodo Garden and the ruins of ”Rinchi Garan” nearby is designated as National Special Historic Site and Special Beautiful Scenery. In addition, there is the main hall, Kai Kaizando, Jogyodo and the famous stone plaque with Basho’s famous haiku ”Summer plants, Soldiers, All remains a dream.”

There is also an Intangible Cultural Property at Motsuji. The dance is called ”Einen no Mai” (longevity dance) and performed by priests to be offered to Buddha and his guardian deity. It is performed in a hall called Jogyodo. The offering is made on the 20th day after New Years to pray for the peace of the nation, rich harvest and prevention of illness. It is generally known to the public as the ”20th Night Festival”.
As we stood in front of the Heian period garden, we have a great view. The most beautiful seasons are the spring with fresh green and autumn. The view made our hearts relax.

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A long history with numerous reconstruction

Zuiganji Temple is a family temple of Masamune Date. It is officially called ”Shotoseiryuzan Zuigan Enpukuzenji” and its foundation goes back as far as the Heian period. According to the records in ”Tendaiki”, it was founded in the 5th year of Tencho (828AD) by priest Jikaku Taishi Ennin by the order of Emperor Junna, leading him to start ”Tendai-shu School of Buddhism Enpukuji Temple”.
In the mid－Kamakura period, it was converted to the Rinzai-shu School of Buddhism, by the order of Tokiyori Hojo. The conversion was a violent act, and it is said that Hojo drove away the Tendai-shu monks by military force. After this, priest Hosshin-zenshi revived it as ”Rinzai-shu Enpukuji Temple”, but it fell into decline during the Sengoku period.

When Masamune Date came to rule, he became devoted to revitalizing the temple, and constructed the buildings which remain as Zuiganji Temple today. Ungo-zenshi, who was summoned by Masamune, Dousui-zenshi, who devoted his effort to the improvement of the temple, and Hosshin-zenshi; these three priests became the founders of the temple. During the movement to abolish Buddhism, and the centralization of administrative power in the modern era, the land belonging to the temple was confiscated, but the temple gradually revitalized from the Meiji period.

Strict rules of Masamune Date

On this occasion, Nakata was escorted by Priest Yoichi Chiba, the head of general affairs, to the temple kitchen, a National Treasure, which was open to the public for a limited time. The wood for the main building and the temple kitchen was brought from the mountains of Mount Kumano in Wakayama, and transported by water, and many master craftsmen were summoned for the construction.
Priest Chiba added, ”The Lord Masamune Date gave strict orders to the craftsmen. One was to never enter the construction site wearing shoes. The other was to never use a nail or a clamp that was dropped on the ground, although these were very valuable building materials.”
The main building and the temple kitchen which were constructed with the passion of Lord Date, have never been affected by a fire in 400 years, and are designated National Treasures as buildings of Momoyama-style. The main building went through an extensive restoration, reopening in 2016.

Matsushima Bay and Godaido Temple

When speaking about Matsushima, many think of the Godaido Temple protruding towards the sea. Legend has it that Sakanoue no Tamuramaro first built a temple for the god of Bishmonten when going to war with the northern countries of Ezo. Later, when priest Ennin founded Enpukuji Temple, he enshrined the statues of the Five Great Wisdom Kings (Daisho Fudoumyo Ou, Gosanze, Gundari, Daiitoku, and Kongoyasha).
The present temple, which is built overlooking Matsushima Bay with 260 islets and uniquely shaped rocks, was built when Lord Masamune Date reconstructed Zuiganji Temple. It is an example of the skilled craftsmanship of Momoyama architecture, and it is open for worship only once in 33 years. When Nakata visited, it was early morning. Godaido Temple by morning stood glowing in total silence.

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The mausoleum of Mitsumune Date, the grandson of Masamune Date.

Entsu-in is situated next to Zuiganji Temple, the family temple of Masamune Date. Mitsumune Date, the grandson of Masamune Date and great grandson of Ieyasu Tokugawa died at the age of 19, and a mausoleum ”Sankeiden” was built, and established as a memorial temple in the 4th year of Shoho (1647). ”Sankeiden” was built with all the craftsmanship of the Date clan and is designated a National Important Cultural Property,
Today, it is open to public for worship, but in it has a history of being closed for three centuries.
On the grounds of the temple, Daihitei (Great Sadness Cottage), once a summer cottage in Edo, a place Mitsumune was attached to, has been relocated from Edo to enshrine the statue of Seikannon Bosatsu.
”The sorrow of his father, Tadamune Date, must have been great indeed. In his great sadness, he moved this summer cottage all the way from Edo, in memory of his son.” says Haruka Amano, the deputy chief priest of Entsu-in. In front of Daihitei is a heart shaped pond, and a garden which represents Mount Hodaraku, a legendary mountain where Bosatsu Kannon is believed to have lived.

“Foreign culture” expressed in the mausoleum

Nakata was allowed to visit the inside of Sankeiden.
”Please look at the doors of the shrine. There are drawings of western daffodils and roses.” Indeed, there were beautiful pictures. The flowers from the west, such as daffodils and roses, were very rare during the Edo period. In the years of Keicho, the Date clan sent Tsunenaga Hasekura as a delegate to Europe, in an attempt to start direct diplomatic relationships with foreign countries. Hasekura succeeded in securing an audience with the King of Spain and the Pope, but he returned to Japan without much success. When he returned, Japan had already decided on national policy of isolation.
”In the age of national isolation, it was compulsory to give up any goods brought from foreign countries to the central government. It is believed that the Date clan wished to preserve the foreign culture they so painstakingly acquired, in this mausoleum. ” The central government would have never thought that the cultures of the west would be drawn inside a shrine. It is decorated also with other western designs including hearts, diamonds, spades, and clubs.

Taking a walk in the beautiful gardens

On visiting Entsu-in, Nakata couldn’t help stopping to look at the beautiful gardens. Within the temple grounds, there are four gardens, and many visitors come here to see the stone garden which represents the Seven Gods of Happiness, and the rose garden.
”There were times when Entsu-in didn’t even have a resident priest and couldn’t maintain the temple. These gardens used to be vegetable patches during the war. We tended to the gardens, and little by little, they have come to the present state.” said Amano.
Tender green of new leaves in the spring, the lush trees and colorful flowers in the summer, red maple tree leaves and lighted night scenery in autumn – the gardens show different aspects each season, and give visitors much pleasure.

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Ranking 5th in number of temples

On hearing the word temples, you most likely think of Kyoto or Nara. Other regions known for temples are Kamakura and Hiraizumi. But Aizu also has a thriving Buddhist culture. Aizu ranks 5th in the number of temples in the region, with the aforementioned 4 locations ranking in the top 4.
We were given this information by Emori Fujita, the Deputy Chief Priest of Eryuji Temple, Buzan school, Shingon sect in Aizubangemachi, Kawanumagun, Fukushima Prefecture.
History has it that Eryuji temple was established when the monk, Seigan from Liang Dynasty built a high temple in the year 540, so it has a history of 1500 years. The temple was moved to its current location in 1190. Within the premises are a hall called Tachiki Kannon Hall, Aizu Korori Three Kannon holy place, and Aizu Thirty Three Kannon, which is the 31st holy temple.

Kannon carved from a single tree

“Guided by the priest, we enter the Kannon (or Buddha) hall where the main Buddha statue, Eleven Faced Thousand Arms Buddha, is enshrined. Usually, the statue is not available for public viewing, but we were allowed a special worship session. After completing our initial prayer for the special viewing, we came face to face with the Kannon which stood approximately 8.5 meters tall. We had to look up to see the face of the majestic Kannon.

This Buddha statue which was carved about 1200 years ago in 808, is also called Tachiki Kannon. It is called ”Tachiki” which means standing tree, because it was carved from a single tree. After hearing this, Nakata took a second look at the Kannon statue. He commented loudly ”It’s amazing there was a tree of this size. It is so big.”
The girth is so wide, that even an adult can’t embrace it. Tachiki Kannon is designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan. It also is the largest wooden statue in Japan to be carved from a single standing tree.

A Hugging Pillar to bring to fulfill all prayers

Also as famous as the main Buddha, Tachiki Kannon, is the Hugging Pillar. To the right of the Tachiki Kannon, there is a large pillar called the Hugging Pillar which is believed to fulfill one’s prayers when you hug it. The custom started when people began hugging the pillar instead of the Buddha statue to have their prayers granted. Even now, people look to the Buddha statue on the left as they embrace the Hugging Pillar.
When they renovated the Kannon Hall, there were strong requests to leave the Hugging Pillar as is, so they placed pieces of wood above and below it to secure it. Many people still come to the temple to embrace the Hugging Pillar.
”When visitors enter this Hall, their attention is drawn to the Hugging Pillar immediately. They do not listen to my story anymore. They all look at the pillar…” He told us laughing.
Nakata also hugged the pillar. What did he pray for? He also encouraged the staff to do the same saying ”You do it too.” Perhaps people gather at a temple for this kind of warm interaction.

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Observing morning sutra reading

Sojiji, formally named Shogakuzan Sojiji, is a temple established 700 years ago. They enshrine ”Shogaku Kannon.” Sojiji used to be located on the Noto Peninsula as one the head temples with a status equaling that of Eiheiji of Soto Zen Buddhism. When the original temple was lost in a fire in the Meiji Period, they reassessed the temple’s meaning of existence and its mission in the modern world, and as a result, the temple was relocated to Yokohama in 1911.
Nakata visited the temple just as the sun was rising. At the temple, Buddhist priests were starting their morning sutra chanting. Nakata continued to observe the morning service as he sat in ”seiza” style in the main hall. His mind calmed down instantly. Priests assembled as they started to chant the sutra. The atmosphere of the silent hall changed completely.

Experiencing “zazen”

Following the morning service, Nakata tried ”zazen.” First he was given a lecture on the etiquette and how to cross the legs for ”zazen”. First place your right foot on your left thigh, then place your left foot over the right foot on the right thigh. If you are crossing just one side, you should pull in the lower foot as close as possible to your body. Place your hands on your feet lightly forming a circle with both thumbs. Sit up straight, extend the back of your head toward the ceiling. Your ears and shoulders, your nose and navel should make a straight line to form the ”zazen” posture.
Breathing should be deep and slow, one breath at a time. Stay focused on breathing and do not be distracted by your own thoughts. Ignore them. Do not dwell on those thoughts. Allow the thoughts, good or bad, to come and go freely and continue to breathe deeply. It is important to maintain your posture and deep breathing. The mind will become calm. In ”zazen”, one can calm the mind with the body, not by thinking.

Conveying message of traditional Buddhism

Hokei Mimura, the ”zazen” instructor gave Nakata instructions on ”zazen”. ”The body does not lie,” he said. By studying one’s ”zaso”, the posture of one’s ”zazen”, Mimura can detect their worries, troubles, etc. Sojiji holds ”zazen” sessions on a regular basis. Some participants are beginners but some have attended the sessions for years. They frequently ask, ”What happens if I practice ’zazen?’” ”Soto-shu’s traditional answer would be, ’Nothing’” Mimura told us.
”But I say to them, ’You become yourself.’ You do not move every part of your body consciously. Through ’zazen’ you consciously maintain a straight posture, you are inspired to be aware of who you are. Take one step further and make yourself stronger. That is the meaning of ’zazen’.”
Do not concentrate on any particular thought, stabilize your mind with your body. It is rare to find an opportunity to do something like this in everyday life. ”We would like to continue conveying messages from Buddhism that is applicable in the modern world.”

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Jomon Era Cave Habitat

Almost everyone visiting Ooyaji Temple will be surprised seeing the mountain made of huge strange rocks. At the foot of the mountain, a “Kannon-do” hall (hall dedicated to Goddess of Mercy in a temple) is build underneath the rocks as if it were tucked in. Many may wonder “Why was such building built here?”
But these rocks are greatly related to the history of this area.
Way before the founding of Ooyaji Temple, a cave believed to be human habitat from the Jomon period remains in this rocky mountain and is preserved as “Ooya Iwakage Iseki” ruins (Ooya Rock Shelter Ruins).
The cave is believed to be a lateral hole dwelling from the early Jomon period, and human skeleton form about 11,000 years ago has been unearthed. (*A part of the skeleton is exhibited in the Treasure Museum in Ooyaji Temple.)
And in the stone walls of the ““Ooya Iwakage Iseki” ruins, “Magaibutsu” or cliff-carved Buddhas are engraved.
In other words, Ooyaji Temple is a rare place which is not only a Nationally Designated Special Historic Site for being a Jomon historic ruin, but is also designated Important Cultural Properties as a Buddhist historical site

Presence of “Magaibutsu” on Stone Walls

Ooyaji Temple is said to have been founded in 810 in the Heian period when Kobo Daishi carved the principal statue Senju Kannon. Besides Senju Kannon, there are altogether 4 sets of stone Buddhas left at present including “three Buddhas of Shaka”, three Buddhas of Yakushi”, and “tree Buddhas of Amida” totaling in 10 statues. The chief priest showed us inside of the cave.
“In the beginning, the stone Buddhas were covered with gold leaf. It reveals similarities with the stone Buddhas of Bamiyan, probably a method of carving passed directly from the Silk Road. They must have been quite impressive in appearance, but unfortunately the gold leaves have fallen over the many years. We’ve had many fires, and so the statues were damaged.”
“And the people of the past, they really did a good job at carving.” Said Nakata.
“Yes, that is true. Scholars of Tochigi Prefecture have continued studies, and the statues are considered to have been made in the later Nara period.
The theory is that they were made mainly by second-generation disciples of Ganjin who founded Toshodaiji Temple.
At that time, domain of the Nara Imperial Court extended as far as Tochigi. Therefore, the status may have been made as a national project at the northern strategic point. “
The chief priest spoke to us in front of the cliff-carved Buddhas, “Buddha has no sects, only the worshippers have sects.”
Humans have lived in this land for may long years, the cliff-carved Buddhas and the temple have remained as a ground of worship. Ooyaji Temple may be a place where visitors can reflect on that history.

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Kitain reconstructed after a great fire.

Kitain Temple is a temple of Tendai sect of Buddhism, and is generally known by the name of Kawagoe Daishi. Its origin goes back to the year 830, so it has nearly 1200 years of history. The official name of the temple is Seiyasan Muryoju-ji Kitain, and in the ancient times it was the northern (Kita) pavilion within Muryoju-ji Temple. However the name was later changed to ”Kita (much happiness)-in (pavilion)” , when Nankoubou Tenkai, a monk much trusted by the Shogun family of Tokugawa since the time of Ieyasu Tokugawa, came to serve as the chief priest.

In the 15th year of Kanei (1638), there was a great fire which devastated the whole of Kawagoe , and many buildings were burnt down. However through the patronage of Iemitsu Tokugawa, the palace buildings were relocated from Edo Castle Momiji Yama, and the temple was reconstructed. That is the reason why Kitain Temple is famous for having ”the room where Shogun Iemitsu Tokugawa is born”. Apart from that, there are numerous properties of cultural importance, including Important National Cultural Properties such as the Main Gate Building constructed by Nankoubou Tenkai.

Depicting the candid expressions of humans ”the 500 arhats”

Among the many cultural assets, ”the 500 arhats” are one of the most popular. There are 538 stone Buddhist statues which were built between 1782 and 1825. In the middle at the high seat sits the large statue of the historical Gautama Buddha, and the statues of arhats, who are the disciples of Buddha, surrounding the Buddha.. Every arhat statue is said to have a different face and a different pose.

”Take a look at this interesting arhat.” It was a statue, cocking its head and lying down on its side. ”He is taking a nap,” smiled Nakata.
”That’s right. These statues depict the candid feelings of people as they are, their joy, anger, sadness and happiness. There are also statues representing the 12 animals of the oriental zodiac. Visitors often come and seek their zodiac animals and offer their prayers.”
As expressed by ”the 500 arhats”, the candid feeling of people may have remained the same, then and now.

In spring, the cherry blossoms will flourish, and the place will be enlivened by many visitors. The temple has always watched over the town of Kawagoe, so called Little Edo, since ancient times, and has been loved by many.

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The remains from Mt. Asama explosion

There is an old saying that an ogre lives in Mt. Asama and when he gets angry, the mountain explodes. The big explosion in 1783 brought many casualties.

At ”Onioshidashi-en,” you can see the remains of lava, boulders and rocks that was spewed out from the volcanic explosion. The scenery is chilling.
However, observing from a different perspective, you can appreciate the power and beauty of nature. It started to rain when Nakata was there, but the rain created an impressive smokey view.

The ferocity of nature

“Serving as a memorial to people who lost their lives during the explosion, ”Asamayama Kannon-do,” serving as a subsidiary of ”Ueno Kaneiji,” was built on the site. It also serves to relay the ferocity of nature to future generations.

Looking down at the grounds from the hill where the temple is built, Nakata said it reminds him of Africa. It was a vision that didn’t seem to fit in Japan.

There is an area where seasonal plants and flowers grow, a pleasing sight to the beholder. Visitors can enjoy wild flowers growing next to the hardened lava, and experience the power of nature.

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No matter how far, visit Zenkoji once at least

No Matter How Far, Visit Zenkoji Once at Least – this poem shows how Zenkoji was earnestly worshipped by the common people. The streets of the temple town is lined with various shops, making the area an attractive tourist spot for browsing.
Zenkoji is said to be founded around 642, the year Yoshimitsu Honda, the founding father, enshrined a Buddhist Image at the present site. In 644, by the order of the Emperor, a Buddhist temple was constructed.

Actually, the principal image of Zenkoji ”Ikko Sanzon Amida Nyoraizo （Amida Triad Sharing One Halo）” was brought to Japan from Baekje in 552, about 100 years before the construction of Zenkoji. This Amida is known as the oldest Buddhist statue, but it has been kept hidden since 654 and will not be exposed to the public eye. Even the chief priest is not allowed to take a look, and it can be said that it is a statue wrapped in the mysterious veil.

”Okaidan Meguri” a tour inside the principal image

Nakata experienced ”Okaidan Meguri”.
”Okaidan Meguri”, is a tour of the corridor which lies underneath ”Ruri Dan” where the principal image of Buddha is enshrined. The mission of this tour is to find and touch ”Gokuraku No Jomae (lock to paradise)” which is set right beneath the Buddha. By walking in the corridor room which represents the inside of the body of Buddha, people regarded the tour as a training for rebirth.

Zenkoji is famous for holding ”Gokaicho” every seven years. Since ”Gokaicho” is counted as first year, it is actually carried out every six years. In those years, several million people visit Zenkoji. In 2009, ”Gokaicho” was held in all six locations of Zenkoji around the country, and there were more than 6,500,000 visitors.

The song at the beginning ”No matter far away …” has a sequel. ”Tasuke Tamouzo Mida No Seigan” (You will have a salvation as in Amitabha’s Vow) It has been more than 1450 years since the arrival to Japan, but visitors still come to worship this precious Amitabha in the modern era.

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