Okinawa has long been influenced by American culture, and coffee has been a beloved staple there for generations. Discovering the story behind Okinawa’s “coffee beans” is another way to experience a new side of the island. Yoshiyuki Nakamura, owner and roaster at “Mame Pole Pole,” shared with us the appeal of Okinawan coffee as it emerges into the spotlight.

To Koza, and Then to the Highlands

“Coffee isn’t just bitter; it can have chocolatey or fruity notes—it’s a diverse and fascinating world,” says Nakamura. Since opening his shop in Okinawa City, located in central Okinawa Prefecture, in 2010, he relocated once to accommodate a new roasting machine, and in 2024, due to the aging of the original building, he established a new shop in the Takahara district of the same city.

The old shop in Koza was built on the site of the New York Restaurant, which opened in the 1950s and was the first in Okinawa to serve Western-style cuisine. The design made use of that charm, allowing visitors to feel the history. The original sign and blue rust were deliberately left as they were, the roaster sat majestically at the back of the shop, and the aroma that lingered inside made you want to breathe deeply.Mr. Nakamura himself was particularly fond of the space, where the balance between old and new felt just right, allowing visitors to experience the atmosphere of that era—a blend of Okinawan and American cultures. Naturally, that same aesthetic has been carried over to the new shop in Takahara.

Roasting Skills Recognized Worldwide Through Dedication

Mr. Nakamura was deeply impressed by Vietnamese coffee he encountered during his college graduation trip and gained experience as a barista after returning home. Being the type of person who, once he starts something, is determined to master it, he taught himself through repeated trial and error.Seeking roasting techniques unavailable in Okinawa, he traveled all over Japan. It was during this period of training that he began competing in the “Japan Coffee Roasting Championship” (JCRC). He won the JCRC in 2017, and subsequently represented Japan at the WCRC (World Coffee Roasting Championship) held in Italy in 2019, where he took second place in the world on his very first attempt.

As a roaster, Nakamura focuses on creating a clean finish and a sweet aftertaste. “Whether it’s a light roast or a dark roast, I take care to ensure the finish ends on a sweet note,” he says. People now travel from all over Japan to seek out Nakamura’s beans.

Bringing Out the Bean’s Character: A Dialogue with Coffee

Coffee is a luxury item. Everyone has their own preferred taste, and how the flavor is perceived changes depending on the environment and time of day. As a roaster, Nakamura pursues quality while engaging in a dialogue with the beans in this world without a single “correct” answer, drawing out their potential and individuality.

Even beans from the same variety at the same farm can transform into something entirely different depending on the post-harvest processing methods. For example, sun-drying the beans while still attached to the fruit imparts a rich, berry-like sweetness and body, whereas washing them to remove the pulp brings out a clean, crisp acidity.

Furthermore, the fermentation process—which has garnered attention in recent years—also plays a key role in shaping the flavor. By blocking oxygen and activating microorganisms, complex aromas reminiscent of wine and spices—unseen in traditional coffee—are brought to the fore. Mr. Nakamura says that the appeal of coffee lies in controlling these countless variables to weave the story of each cup.

“Coffee beans, just like us humans, aren’t all the same. Their individuality changes depending on the environment in which they were grown,” says Nakamura.

The roasting time also varies depending on the bean. He explains that he assesses the bean’s condition—such as its size and hardness—to discern its character, visualizes how to finish it, and then determines the roasting method. Depending on the bean’s individuality, not only does the roast level (dark or light) change, but even the recommended way to drink it varies. For instance, if the body is strong, it works well in a cappuccino where it holds its own against the milk.

Farmers take great care during the “processing” stage, which involves extracting the seeds (the part that becomes the coffee bean) from harvested coffee cherries (the fruit) and drying them. Furthermore, the flavors and acidity you experience when drinking the coffee are rooted in the taste of the land where the beans were grown. Because Nakamura values his dialogue with the beans, he confirms where they were born and the environment in which they grew, checking their moisture content and fermentation levels.

As the moisture evaporates, the sound changes.
The beans from “Mame Pole Pole” undergo this relay of care before being roasted in a meticulously selected German roaster.

Okinawa’s World-Renowned Specialty Coffee

What truly surprises Nakamura is the coffee bean “Akachichi” from ADA Farm, a coffee farm located in the Yanbaru Forest in northern Okinawa—the first in Japan to receive specialty coffee certification.

“Akachichi” derives from “akatsuki,” the Okinawan word for dawn. Mr. Nakamura named it with the hope that this would not just be a passing trend, but a dawn that leads to the future.

The intense acidity and fruity flavor characteristic of high-quality coffee beans are created by temperature fluctuations. These fluctuations harden the beans, locking in sugar and making them sweet. Indeed, coffee is a fruit. However, Okinawa has low elevation and minimal temperature variation.It cannot be said to be blessed with an ideal environment for growing coffee beans, and cultivating specialty coffee was considered difficult. So why was Akachichi grown in Okinawa and certified as specialty coffee? The answer lies in the dedication and passion of Mr. Tokuda of ADA Farm, who is meticulous about the ripeness of every single bean.

“Ensuring that every cup of coffee consumed by the customer has a wonderful flavor and is satisfyingly delicious.”
The essence of specialty coffee, as defined by the Specialty Coffee Association of Japan (SCAJ), lies not only in the quality of the beans but also in thorough management and sustainability from production to extraction.The beans from “ADA Farm,” nestled in the deep forests of Yanbaru, embody this ideal. And the roasting by “Mame Pole Pole” connects the producer’s passion and the breath of the forest to us in the finest possible state. Beans grown in the forests of Okinawa and recognized worldwide are roasted by someone who loves this island, bringing out their unique character. Then, they are carefully brewed using the water of this land.The dedication of these two individuals converges to create the ultimate luxury: “satisfying deliciousness.”

To deliver “a cup of coffee that can only be made here and will astonish the world,” they continue to walk alongside the forest today, pouring their passion into every single bean.

The post “Mame Porepore”: A Special Coffee You Can Only Enjoy in Okinawa / Okinawa City, Okinawa Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The encounter between Okinawa’s lush soil and the coffee plant, and the bonds formed with fellow coffee lovers. ADA Farm creates special coffee beans packed with a passionate story, carefully cultivated over more than a decade. This richly flavored coffee, distinctive to Okinawa, has become a rare treasure that attracts keen interest from roasters and collectors around the world.

Japan’s First Specialty Coffee, Grown in Lush Forests

Located in the Yanbaru Forest in northern Okinawa Prefecture, “ADA Farm” is the first farm in Japan to receive specialty coffee certification. This designation is awarded only to beans that achieve an extremely high score of 80 or higher out of 100 in a cupping (tasting evaluation). During the evaluation, quality is assessed against strict criteria across 10 categories, including “clean cup,” “distinct acidity,” and “sweetness.”

Despite being situated in an environment that is far from ideal for cultivation, the fact that the beans’ flavor and aroma potential have reached global standards is the culmination of CEO Taijiro Tokuda’s relentless passion. This remarkable achievement has now become a source of great hope for the entire Okinawan coffee industry.

“Mr. Tokuda is constantly evolving. Even after gaining global recognition, he continues to take on new challenges, and that is reflected in the quality of his beans,” says Yoshiyuki Nakamura. Nakamura won the 2017 Japan Coffee Roasting Championship (JCRC) and subsequently represented Japan at the 2019 World Coffee Roasting Championship (WCRC) in Italy, where he took second place in his debut appearance. He runs “Mame Pole Pole” in Okinawa City, Okinawa Prefecture, and is one of Japan’s leading roasters who loves ADA Farm’s beans.

Mr. Tokuda explains why he started growing coffee in Okinawa: “First, there was wonderful farmland here, and rich soil. Then, I encountered coffee as a plant. Furthermore, I met fellow coffee lovers in Okinawa. It was all a matter of fate, and before I knew it, I had come this far.”

With Okinawan soil and coffee

The ideal region for coffee cultivation is the tropical zone known as the “Coffee Belt,” which stretches between the Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn, centered on the equator. While Brazil, Ethiopia, and Indonesia are among the most well-known coffee-producing regions, Okinawa lies just outside the northernmost edge of this belt. With typhoons, cold winter temperatures, and acidic soil, it is by no means a “comfortable” environment for coffee.

However, rather than forcibly altering the environment through soil improvement, Mr. Tokuda chose a farming method that makes full use of the blessings and natural cycles provided by the mountains. Specifically, it is a groundbreaking farming method that preserves the surrounding virgin forests, cultivates crops within them, and avoids disrupting the natural forest cycle.

The climate of each year is directly imprinted on the beans’ character. For example, if there is plenty of rain in the summer, healthy fruit grows robustly; conversely, in years marked by drought or extreme temperature fluctuations, the beans’ vitality becomes concentrated.

Mr. Tokuda says, “The beans tell the story of what kind of year it was in Okinawa.” Drinking ADA Farm coffee is synonymous with reliving the sound of Okinawa’s rain and the warmth of its sunshine from that particular year. It is not merely a beverage, but a one-of-a-kind cup filled with a “record” of Okinawa’s nature.

We wait for them to ripen, then carefully hand-pick each berry one by one

The flowering season for coffee at ADA Farm typically runs from April to July. It takes 7 to 8 months from flowering for the fruit to grow and fully ripen, with the harvest season lasting from December to April. Because coffee flowers have a long blooming period, the harvest window is correspondingly broad; however, coffee generally blooms more readily in climates with distinct wet and dry seasons. In Okinawa, however, the climate is often unstable, which can prevent the coffee plants from triggering flowering, resulting in a longer harvest period. Since coffee beans require not only the growth of the pulp but also the development of the seed, we carefully monitor the condition of the seeds to determine the optimal moment for harvest. It is said that the appearance and condition of the fruit when fully ripe vary depending on the weather leading up to harvest and individual differences among the coffee trees. During harvest, we verify the ripeness with our own eyes, check the texture, taste the fruit, and hand-pick it. This meticulous care is what leads to the quality of ADA Farm’s coffee.

“I’m not doing anything special,” says Tokuda, yet he nurtures each and every coffee cherry with meticulous care.

Processing refers to the steps of extracting the seeds (coffee beans) from the harvested cherries and drying them. Coffee beans harvested at their peak are carefully assessed for their unique characteristics, then hulled, dried, and fermented. The processing methods at ADA Farm are never the same.

“They’re the same beans until harvest,” says Tokuda. “But through processing, we can bring out a surprisingly diverse range of flavors. That’s why I want to hand them over to the roaster in a state where their potential has been maximized.” His goal is not to define the beans’ character as a farmer, but rather to expand the range of possibilities each bean holds through the ‘translation of flavor’ that is processing.

Furthermore, the varieties they cultivate also have their own distinct characteristics. “New World No. 1,” which bears red fruit, is characterized by a vibrant aroma and bright, high-quality acidity. On the other hand, “New World No. 2,” with its yellow fruit, stands out for its robust sweetness, toasty notes, and rich body.

The post “ADA Farm”: World-Renowned Okinawan Coffee Grown in the Yanbaru Forest / Kunigami Village, Okinawa Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.