A long history with numerous reconstruction

Zuiganji Temple is a family temple of Masamune Date. It is officially called ”Shotoseiryuzan Zuigan Enpukuzenji” and its foundation goes back as far as the Heian period. According to the records in ”Tendaiki”, it was founded in the 5th year of Tencho (828AD) by priest Jikaku Taishi Ennin by the order of Emperor Junna, leading him to start ”Tendai-shu School of Buddhism Enpukuji Temple”.
In the mid－Kamakura period, it was converted to the Rinzai-shu School of Buddhism, by the order of Tokiyori Hojo. The conversion was a violent act, and it is said that Hojo drove away the Tendai-shu monks by military force. After this, priest Hosshin-zenshi revived it as ”Rinzai-shu Enpukuji Temple”, but it fell into decline during the Sengoku period.

When Masamune Date came to rule, he became devoted to revitalizing the temple, and constructed the buildings which remain as Zuiganji Temple today. Ungo-zenshi, who was summoned by Masamune, Dousui-zenshi, who devoted his effort to the improvement of the temple, and Hosshin-zenshi; these three priests became the founders of the temple. During the movement to abolish Buddhism, and the centralization of administrative power in the modern era, the land belonging to the temple was confiscated, but the temple gradually revitalized from the Meiji period.

Strict rules of Masamune Date

On this occasion, Nakata was escorted by Priest Yoichi Chiba, the head of general affairs, to the temple kitchen, a National Treasure, which was open to the public for a limited time. The wood for the main building and the temple kitchen was brought from the mountains of Mount Kumano in Wakayama, and transported by water, and many master craftsmen were summoned for the construction.
Priest Chiba added, ”The Lord Masamune Date gave strict orders to the craftsmen. One was to never enter the construction site wearing shoes. The other was to never use a nail or a clamp that was dropped on the ground, although these were very valuable building materials.”
The main building and the temple kitchen which were constructed with the passion of Lord Date, have never been affected by a fire in 400 years, and are designated National Treasures as buildings of Momoyama-style. The main building went through an extensive restoration, reopening in 2016.

Matsushima Bay and Godaido Temple

When speaking about Matsushima, many think of the Godaido Temple protruding towards the sea. Legend has it that Sakanoue no Tamuramaro first built a temple for the god of Bishmonten when going to war with the northern countries of Ezo. Later, when priest Ennin founded Enpukuji Temple, he enshrined the statues of the Five Great Wisdom Kings (Daisho Fudoumyo Ou, Gosanze, Gundari, Daiitoku, and Kongoyasha).
The present temple, which is built overlooking Matsushima Bay with 260 islets and uniquely shaped rocks, was built when Lord Masamune Date reconstructed Zuiganji Temple. It is an example of the skilled craftsmanship of Momoyama architecture, and it is open for worship only once in 33 years. When Nakata visited, it was early morning. Godaido Temple by morning stood glowing in total silence.

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No matter how far, visit Zenkoji once at least

No Matter How Far, Visit Zenkoji Once at Least – this poem shows how Zenkoji was earnestly worshipped by the common people. The streets of the temple town is lined with various shops, making the area an attractive tourist spot for browsing.
Zenkoji is said to be founded around 642, the year Yoshimitsu Honda, the founding father, enshrined a Buddhist Image at the present site. In 644, by the order of the Emperor, a Buddhist temple was constructed.

Actually, the principal image of Zenkoji ”Ikko Sanzon Amida Nyoraizo （Amida Triad Sharing One Halo）” was brought to Japan from Baekje in 552, about 100 years before the construction of Zenkoji. This Amida is known as the oldest Buddhist statue, but it has been kept hidden since 654 and will not be exposed to the public eye. Even the chief priest is not allowed to take a look, and it can be said that it is a statue wrapped in the mysterious veil.

”Okaidan Meguri” a tour inside the principal image

Nakata experienced ”Okaidan Meguri”.
”Okaidan Meguri”, is a tour of the corridor which lies underneath ”Ruri Dan” where the principal image of Buddha is enshrined. The mission of this tour is to find and touch ”Gokuraku No Jomae (lock to paradise)” which is set right beneath the Buddha. By walking in the corridor room which represents the inside of the body of Buddha, people regarded the tour as a training for rebirth.

Zenkoji is famous for holding ”Gokaicho” every seven years. Since ”Gokaicho” is counted as first year, it is actually carried out every six years. In those years, several million people visit Zenkoji. In 2009, ”Gokaicho” was held in all six locations of Zenkoji around the country, and there were more than 6,500,000 visitors.

The song at the beginning ”No matter far away …” has a sequel. ”Tasuke Tamouzo Mida No Seigan” (You will have a salvation as in Amitabha’s Vow) It has been more than 1450 years since the arrival to Japan, but visitors still come to worship this precious Amitabha in the modern era.

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Takaoka and Toshinaga Maeda

The National Treasure ”Zuiryuji” was founded in 1614. It was built by the 3rd feudal lord of the Kaga clan, Toshitsune Maeda to pay respect to the late 2nd Kaga Feudal lord, Toshinaga Maeda. Toshinaga Maeda rests in Zuiryuji in Takaoka-shi, but originally the one who built Takaoka was Toshinaga Maeda himself. Toshinaga retired at the age of 44, and at this time he moved to Toyama from Kanazawa. However, unfortunately the Toyama castle he moved into burned down which made him build a new castle in Takaoka. He created a town surrounding this castle which was the start of the town Takaoka.

Beautiful Grounds of Zuiryuji

Takaoka’s size hasn’t changed as much as when it was first planned out by Toshinaga. When Toshinaga moved to Takaoka, he brought with him the temple Hoenji which was built as memorial for Nobunaga Oda. Thus Hoenji is the antecedent of Zuiryuji and when Toshinaga passed in 1614, Toshitsune officially renamed the temple Zuiryuji, taken from his Buddhist name in his honor. Toshitsune had always felt great gratitude towards Toshinaga thus the complete reconstruction of Zuiryuji took 10 whole years. The temple accomplished is the current designated National Treasure. It is a simple and solemn Buddhist temple. The front garden consists of a lawn that stands out against the contrast with the sky and temple. The very person who created Takaoka rests in Takaoka, Zuiryuji.

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Established in the age of Latter days of law ideology

Byodoin is located in Uji, a part of Kyoto where many nobles of the Heian period built their resort villas. In fact Byodoin itself was once a villa owned by Fujiwara Michinaga when he seized power as the Imperial regency and referred to it as Ujidono. His son Yorimichi later remodeled it as a temple after the death of his father and named it Byodoin. (the end of days) Mappo Ideology was the trend of the times, which was belief that after 2000 years of the passing of Buddha, the world will be in turmoil, full of disasters, causes both natural and man-made. Byodoin was created in 1052, which was said to be the first year of this Mappo ideology trend. In the following year the Amidado (current Hooudo) was built, revering the Amida nyorai (Amitabha Tathagata）, said to be the founder of purgatory. With thus social background, Byodoin flourished with loyal worshippers from the nobles and common people.

Collection of Numerous National Treasures

During this time, Kyoto was undergoing a temple construction boom and many temples were built such as Hojoji and Hosshoji. The majority of the temples that had been built then had disappeared, leaving only Byodoin Hooudo still in existence in the present. The building itself is obviously invaluable, however there are other numerous numbers of national treasures such as Buddhist sculptures stored in the temple. In 2001 the Byodoin Museum Hoshoukan was opened to take the place of their deteriorated Homotsukan to collect, store and display their invaluable pieces of art.

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Link to Koubou Daishi

Toji is a temple built by the government built upon the transfer of the Heiankyo capital. There were 2 temples built on the east, the east temple Toji, and the west temple Saiji to protect the capital. After the transfer under Emperor Kanmu, and later Emperor Saga appointed Koubou Daishi Kukai in charge of Toji. This made Toji the root training ground to the Shingon Esoteric Buddhism. Kukai immediately undertook the structuring of the main hall and temple. The 5-towered pagoda currently regarded as the symbol of Kyoto was also built at this time, 1200 years ago. Toji had experienced numerous natural disasters and had been restored the same amount of times, though the layout of the buildings are more or less the same as Kukai had planned.

Temple Remaining from Heiankyo

During times when battles between the Genji and Heishi became intense towards the end of the Heian period, Toji and Saiji both declined in power. Saiji unfortunately was never restored but Toji was restored by Unkei during the Kamakura period. Although going through multiple times of confusion, it is the only temple that still remains from the days of Heiankyo in the present.

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The Start of Higashi Honganji

The official name for ”Higashi Honganji” is ”Shinshu Honbyou”, as it is the head temple of Jodo Shinshu ”Shinshu Ohtaniha”. In Kyoto there is also a west, Nishi Honganji and sometimes they are casually referred to as ”Ohigashisan” and ”Onishisan” Nishi Honganji is famous for having been the military quarters for the Shinsengumi. The west and east Honganji temples were in fact one temple, acting as the head temple for Jodo shinshu. It was separated into east and west in 1602 (year Keicho 7). Honganji flourished under Kennyo, the 11th temple head priest, whose name is well known as being the arch enemy of Oda Nobunaga. After Kennyo’s death, the temple was divided in two, the radicals and non-radicals just as the battles against Nobunaga had been. Eventually the third son, Junnyo supporting the non-radicals succeeded as the 12th head priest with the backing of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and later Tokugawa Ieyasu advocated the first son Kyonyo and appointed him head priest of ”Higashi Honganji” which made the separation between east and west significant.

Destroyed by Fire and its Restoration

Later in 1641, in the year Kannei 18, the temple prospered as Tokugawa Ieyasu donated approximately 33,000 m2 of land which became Shoseien, which is still appreciated in the present. However, with ”Hamagurigomon no hen” at the end of the Shogunate period, the major part of Mikagedo, Amidado, had burnt down. In the Meiji era it was restored and was completed in 1895 (Meiji 28). Both have historical value, representing modern Japanese architecture and are designated as Cultural Asset. Aforementioned Shoseien too had burnt down, but was restored in the Meiji period, now with seasonal flowers that can be appreciated throughout the year.

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Zen Temple Where People Gather

”Nanzenji” was founded by Emperor Kameyama in 1291 and is the very first Zen temple officially recognized by the Japanese imperial household. Under the rule of Emperor Godaigo, he designated Nanzenji as the first Zen temple of the five Zen temples of Kyoto. In the Muromachi period, Ashikaga Yoshimitsu redefined the terms for ”five temples” yet named Nanzenji as a temple that stands over the top five. This has continued to this day and Nanzenji is still considered important as a Zen temple in Kyoto. Nanzenji is visited by numerous tourists for its beauty. First is the beautiful scenery of the mountain from the corridors of the temple. With each season with its own attractiveness Higashiyama is loved for its scenery especially for the cherry blossoms in Spring and the coloring of the leaves in Autumn. Another attraction is the ”Hojo” garden also referred to as the ”Tora-no-Ko Watashi-no-Niwa” (mother tiger crossing the tiger cubs across the garden) It is a dry landscape garden, expressing water with sand, pebbles and pine. There is also the ”Water drinking Tiger” a fusuma painting, said to be works of Kano Tanyu.

Receiving History and Awe to be Handed Down

”Sanzenbutsu Myougo shoshagyo”” was being prepared for the 2012 ”Soken Nan-in kokushi 700 nen Daionki jukaie”(700th anniversary of founding) when we were visiting. ”Sanzenbutsu Myougo Shoshagyo” is transcribing down the names of all Buddha, 1,000 names each from the past, present and future on paper. When complete, there will be in total 3,000 Buddha names written out, creating a scroll. In Buddhist terms, ”3,000” refers to ”infinity” and infers to all worldly things. By feeling gratitude to all 3,000 Buddha is equivalent to paying respects to all things in the world. On this day, Nakata was able to add some names to an incomplete scroll. Nanzenji has a history of over 700 years. In 2012 (year Heisei 24) the completed ”Sanzenbutsu Myougo Shoshagyo” will be hung by the main hall. Another page in history will be added with its beautiful garden. (* This interview was conducted in 2010)

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The Beginning and End of the Edo Period

When we hear the word ”Nijo Castle” many may instantly think of ”Taiseihokan”. Indeed at the last days of the of the Edo period, the last Shogun Yoshinobu Tokugawa proclaimed the Taiseihokan at the Ninomaru Palace of the Nijo castle. . This triggered the demise of the Tokugawa Shogunate, so you may say this is the place where one era was terminated. However, it is also where Edo period was given birth. Nijo Castle was created in 1603 by orders of Ieyasu Tokugawa who had proclaimed victory at the battle of Sekigahara.

Architecture that Gathered Essence of Beauty

In that same year Ieyasu was designated ”Seitaishogun honin”, and had paid respects to the imperial court at the palace, as was the custom since the Muromachi period. Later he was officially designated as ”Shogun” and that was the full-scale start up of the Edo period. Nijo Castle is attributed as treasured asset culturally and artistically, designated with UNESCO World Heritage as Cultural asset to old capital Kyoto, the Ninomaru Palace designated National Treasure, the Ninomaru Palace Gardens designated as Special Scenic Spot of the Nation. The palace was witness to both the beginning and end of the Edo period.

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All Yoshino cherry trees are sacred

The cherry trees of Yoshino are the most famous in Japan. ”Kinpusen-ji” looks over all the sacred cherry trees on its premises.
The founder is the father of ”shugendo”, Enno Gyoja. The main worshipped statue is the Zaougongen, and besides this, Zaoudo, the main temple hall enshrines many other sacred images. The Zaoudo is highly appraised as architecture and has multiple layers of Irimoya-style roof and stands elegantly and grand.
We had already visited Ohminesan-ji , but these two temples were given separate names from the year Meiji 19 (1886). The 2 temples had existed but had both been referred to as Kinpusen-ji. In the Meiji period, the government banned ”shugendo” and also ruled the ”Shintoism and Buddhism separation Ordinance” where Kinpusen-ji was forced into temporary abandonment. Later in the year Meiji 19 (1886) current Kinpusen-ji was restored by the Tendaishu Shugendo sect, however the 2 temples Zaoudo and Ohminesan-ji were kept separate. Although they were originally the same ”shugendo” sacred site, that is how it still stands to this day,

Elevating your soul by sensing the surroundings

In 1948, Kinpusen Shugen Ascetic Sector was proclaimed, and Kinpusen-ji became the head temple with Zaoudo as the center. This temple with the Yoshino cherry trees has been the backbone for people’s faith for over 1300 years.

After returning from Ohminesan-ji, we reported to Kinpusen-ji to receive our ”Certificates of Accomplishment”.　Toshinori Tanaka, Chancellor asked ”How was it?”. To this query, Nakata answered, ”I have gone through religious training in Tibet and Bhutan as well, but this was the toughest of all.”
Tanaka explained that ”shugendo” is to train not just oneself but to enter the mountain, revere it, and realize what lives inside us, and to elevate that will in the wild nature, in the world of Mandala.
”To pray refers to sensing your surroundings. In the modern society, you tend to be overly self-conscious. It is far more important to sense something other than your own self, is it not?”
Since the ancient past, the Japanese have always had a deep connection to nature and had discovered numerous things from nature. ”Kinpusen-ji” succeeds this manner through ”shugendo”.

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Capital of Heijo built for spiritual protection

Get off at Nara station on the Kintetsu line, and you will see a big entrance gate of the shrine on your left as you look towards along Todaiji. Go through that gate and walk through Nara park and you will reach the shrine Kasuga Taisha, built for the spiritual protection of Heijokyo.
It is said that Kasuga Taisha was built in 710 when the capital was transferred to Heijo, and that was when Fujiwara Fuhito built a shrine to deify Takemikazuchino Mikoto, said to have had strong relations with the Fujiwaras, at the Mikasayama in Kasuga. Approximately 60 years later Kasuga Taisha is said to have been completed at the foot of Mikasayama, where Fujiwara no Nagate structured 4 shrines, enshrining the deities.
The Fujiwara family had strong ties with Kofukuji as well, and when Shintoism and Buddhism was synchronized, Kasuga Taisha and Kofukuji also became very close, and it was said that ”Buddhist memorial services were conducted under the protection of the gods of Kasuga Taisha.”

Observing the dedication dances

The day Nakata visited, the ritual ”Takigi Onoh Shushihashiri no gi” was to take place, and the Konparu school’s ”Okina” was scheduled. ”Jushi” is a Buddhist ritual to ward off and protect the space from evil. The big and fierce movements of this ritual gave it the name ”Jushi bashiri”. It is said to be one of the oldest ”jushi” art. In the past, priests had enacted these rituals, but with time performers took their place. Now in current times, the main role is performed by the character ”Okina”.
The deer of Nara park are familiar to the Japanese. The deer also have strong ties with Kasuga Taisha. The deer have been protected as messengers to god due to legend that Takemikazuchino Mikoto came riding on the back of a white deer from Kashima Jingu in Ibaragi to Kasuga Taisha. Currently there are about 1200 deer and they are designated as Japan’s natural monument. ”Kasuga Taisha”, shrine built surrounded by nature with its vermillion gates. The 1300 year-old legend still lives on to this day.

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