Shiga Prefecture is said to be the birthplace of Japanese tea. The origin of Japanese tea is said to date back to 1200 years ago, in the early Heian period, when Saicho, the founder of the Tendai sect of Buddhism, brought back seeds from Tang China and planted them at the foot of Mount Hiei. We visited Mr. Haruki Fujimura, representative director of “Greentea Tsuchiyama,” a tea farmers’ cooperative in Shiga Prefecture, which is working to pass the baton of the tea industry to the future.

Tea production area developed in the Edo period (1603-1867)

Tsuchiyama-cho, located in the southeastern part of Shiga Prefecture, boasts the largest tea production and cultivation area in the prefecture. 805, Saicho, who returned from Tang Dynasty China, introduced tea cultivation to Omi Province, which is now Shiga Prefecture, and tea production also began in Tsuchiyama. Since Tsuchiyama was an inn town on the Tokaido Highway, tea was sold to people passing by, and its production expanded dramatically in the Edo period ( 1603-1867). At its peak, Tsuchiyama used the same tea leaves as green tea to make black tea and export it overseas, but this became difficult after World War II began, and the region gained a foothold as a producer specializing in green tea.

Tea that can be enjoyed from the second brewing

There are several traditional tea production areas in Shiga Prefecture, such as Asamiya and Masadokoro, but Tsuchiyama is characterized by rolling hills with long hours of sunlight, rich underground water from the Suzuka mountain range, and a temperature difference between day and night. This makes it possible to grow long, thick tea leaves, which have a strong flavor and aroma, and are said to be delicious even after the second or third brewing. Characterized by its elegant, mild, and deep flavor, it has long been a specialty of Shiga Prefecture.

Producing “Kabusecha” with a strong flavor

Another characteristic of Tsuchiyama is that it is known as a famous producer of “Kabusecha” tea. Kabusecha is a type of tea in which tea leaves are covered with a cloth or other covering before plucking to suppress the production of catechins and enhance the flavor and sweetness of the tea. The tea leaves that have been covered for a longer period of time are called “gyokuro,” and those that have been dried without being rubbed are called “tencha. Tencha is ground into a powder using a millstone, and this powder is called matcha, which is used in the tea ceremony.

Kabusecha production is thriving in Tsuchiyama, and has a solid track record, winning first place in Japan in the kabusecha category of the National Tea Fair.

Healing Tea from Tsuchiyama to the World

Haruki Fujimura is the representative director of “Green Tea Tsuchiyama,” an agricultural cooperative that produces tea with the concept of “bringing healing tea to the world. He has been in the tea industry since he was 22 years old, and has been in the business for 30 years this year. He wanted to acquire knowledge and skills beyond just making tea, so he became a certified Japanese tea instructor, also known as a “tea sommelier,” and is also involved in training young people at an agricultural university as an agricultural instructor.

In Tsuchiyama, many growers have traditionally produced Kabusecha, but about five years ago, we started producing about two thirds of our tea from Tencha, which is used to make Matcha. Japanese matcha has been booming overseas for the past few years, and the need for tencha will increase even more in the future.

Although the region as a whole has been increasing the percentage of its tea production from tencha processing every year, the price of tea itself has been declining in recent years, and producers are now facing a difficult situation.

From individual competition to regional cooperation in tea production

In order to overcome the difficult situation surrounding tea farmers, various reforms are being implemented in Tsuchiyama. One of these reforms is the establishment of an agricultural cooperative, Greentea Tsuchiyama.

One of the features of our company is that each member of the corporation is a farmer, but we all share the same fields and factories. In tea production areas, even though the factory is shared, it is rare to find an organization in which everyone shares the same fields. There is no such thing as an individual farm, but rather a system in which everyone works together to increase sales,” says Mr. Tsuchiyama.

Green Tea Tsuchiyama was originally established by Fujimura’s father in cooperation with five tea farmers.

At the time, when most tea farms were privately owned, many farmers were trying to ship their products as quickly as possible in a small area, which caused shipping times to overlap. To prevent this, Greentea Tsuchiyama was established to promote the joint purchase of fertilizers and the joint use of factories. Today, many young farmers belong to the company, and it has grown to the point where it produces about one-tenth of all tea produced in Shiga Prefecture.

Overcoming the adversity of being called a “cheap production area

Green Tea Tsuchiyama handles all aspects of tea production in-house, from cultivation to processing and sales. In 2018, the company built a new factory for tencha, the first in the prefecture, with the aim of producing its own tencha, the raw material for matcha, to boost sales and meet demand for the tea in a wide range of products such as chocolate and confectionery.

The factory is located in the Tsuchiyama area, where frost occurs in early spring, so the early sprouts are damaged by the frost. Tea can only be harvested safely in Tsuchiyama after May, the middle of the season. It has often been said that “Tsuchiyama is an inexpensive production area” because the harvest here begins when harvesting is completed in all production areas in Japan, and the tea can finally be shipped when the price of new tea has dropped completely. So, in order to survive, we need a stronger ground than other production areas,” he says.

Original products that meet the needs of the times and applications

At the same time as establishing a tea production system, the company is also focusing on the development of original products.

KOKUTAN,” with its luxurious black packaging, is a special Kabusecha blending two varieties, a gem that offers the sweetness of “Sae-midori” and the refreshing crispness of “Okumidori”. It is made from the most aromatic and rich tea leaves harvested at Greentea Tsuchiyama.

Other products include Hakuji, a top-grade Kabusecha tea that is mild and recommended for daily use, and Hekiryoku, an extra-grade sencha with a refreshing aroma and moderate astringency.

Developing sweets to enjoy with tea

In an effort to further expand its product lineup, the company has begun developing products other than tea leaves, including “Matcha Financier” and “Roasted Tea x Benifuuki Financier,” the first processed foods made with the company’s own tea, which went on sale in 2020. We thought, “Why not have confections that are not limited to tea leaves alone? The development of confections that go well with tea has been well received by employees and customers alike. Mr. Fujimura’s goal is to increase the number of original products using tea, such as chocolates and cookies, and eventually sell them in his own stores.

Bringing the potential of tea to the future through the efforts of the entire tea-producing region.

In 2022, a team of tea farmers, tea artisans, and agricultural cooperatives will launch a new hojicha brand called “Tsuchiyama Overnight Hoji. This initiative was started to make the name “Tsuchiyama” widely known. The tea leaves grown with great care in Tsuchiyama-cho are left to wilt naturally overnight (12 hours or more) to lose water, which gives the tea a flowery aroma. When the tea leaves are roasted, the sweet aroma of Taiwanese tea is followed by a savory aroma unique to hojicha, making it a tea that goes well with both Japanese and Western-style teas and meals. The tea is named “Overnight Hoji,” and is sold in a variety of variations by several businesses participating in this initiative.

I consider tea to be a luxury item, just like alcohol. In the past, people thought it was enough to just make tea as it is and sell it, but now I feel that the ideal way for a production center is to make tea that they can truly enjoy through trial and error, and then promote it. How many people can we create who will appreciate the taste of Tsuchiyama’s tea? That is what is necessary to continue tea production. With an eye on the future of tea, they are expanding beyond the boundaries of producers and companies. We look forward to the new challenges ahead for Mr. Fujimura and his team.

The post Green Tea Tsuchiyama” to explore the future and possibilities of tea in Omi, the birthplace of Japanese tea / Koka City, Shiga Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Aiming to create “tea that surprises and impresses the drinker,” Amma Seicha produces tea from its own unique perspective and ideas.
His attitude of never forgetting to challenge himself in pursuit of the ultimate taste of tea is bringing a new wind to the tea industry.

A unique background that led him to the world of tea in Shizuoka Prefecture

When most people think of Shizuoka Prefecture, they imagine large tea plantations stretching across the Makinohara Plateau, but Yasuma Seicha is located in Fukuroi City. Located in the southwestern part of Shizuoka Prefecture, Fukuroi City is famous for its melons, but tea has also been grown in the hills between the mountains since before World War II. Fukuroi City is said to be one of the oldest tea growing areas in Shizuoka Prefecture.

Amma Seicha was founded in 1946 by the first generation, Gohei Amma, and Kosuke is the third generation. Although not large in scale, the company has been in business for over 70 years, with the family handling everything from cultivation to processing and sales.

A tea plantation spreads out in front of the house, and a tea factory is also located on the premises. Every time I breathe, I feel the fresh aroma of tea tickling my nose.

Would you like to try picking tea? Nakada took Mr. Amma’s invitation and got on the tractor for tea picking for the first time.

It feels so good,” he said. Nakada was also soothed by the beauty of the tea fields.

Kosuke Amma, a third-generation tea farmer, has a unique career path. He was a high school Japanese teacher before becoming a web writer, and when he married, he took over his wife’s family’s business and started his own tea business.

My wife and I were classmates in junior high school. We are both from the area, so I grew up surrounded by tea plantations. However, I had only ever drank tea from a plastic bottle (laughs). I was so surprised when I drank the tea my wife brewed for me that I wanted more people to experience it. Of course, I didn’t have the skills or knowledge to be a tea farmer at first, so I studied at Shizuoka Prefectural College of Agriculture and Forestry first, and then started farming, ” said Amma. After having various experiences as a working adult, he studied at the school, which probably helped him develop his own unique way of thinking.

Tea with a particular flavor and sweetness

Amma Seicha’s teas have won awards in various contests, and in addition to its regular green teas, the company also produces Hakuha-cha ( white-leaf tea). The tea is grown under a specific timing of shading of at least 99.99% of the leaves from the sun. By doing so, the leaves turn white and the content of amino acids, the source of sweetness, increases dramatically. Specifically, the amino acid content is three times higher than that of ordinary sencha and approximately twice as high as that of gyokuro, which is known as a high-end tea. In addition, the amount of catechins, which are bitter components, is greatly reduced, resulting in a rich flavor and refreshing sweetness. Because of the difficulty of cultivation and production and the time and effort required, there are only a few tea growers, making it a rare and precious commodity. Mr. Amma also received the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries Award for his research and presentation of this white-leaf tea.

I think there are many young people like me who have grown up not knowing the true taste of tea. I think it is my role from now on to think about how to make such people aware of the appeal of tea,” said Amma enthusiastically. To convey the true appeal of Japanese tea is something that only Mr. Amma, who is continuously pursuing delicious tea and trying to convey it to as many people as possible, can do.

Pursuing delicious tea to the end of the road

In addition to the pursuit of delicious tea leaves, Mr. Amma also pursues the deliciousness of tea in other areas. Specifically, he has researched and developed a kyusu, a teapot that is essential for drinking Japanese tea.

He jointly developed the kyusu and utensils with a tile installation store located in the same city of Fukuroi. The originally developed tile “ikiatsuki ” contains carbon, which has the property of adsorbing caffeine and catechins that inhibit amino acids, the source of umami and sweetness. In this way, we succeeded in making “Shiroba-cha,” which has a particularly strong flavor and sweetness, even more delicious. The concept of this kyusu and boinokuchi is ” to provide new value in pursuit of functionality.

Mr. Amma continues to take on the challenge of breathing new life into a traditional culture so that the tea culture will be preserved for future generations. Just as he was shocked by the deliciousness of tea, many people will learn the charm of Japanese tea by drinking his tea in the future.

The first time my wife brewed tea for me in a teapot, the taste gave me a “surprise”. I want to give people who drink the tea I make the same kind of “surprise” and “excitement” as I did at that time. With this in mind, I continue to explore new possibilities for tea today.

The post Bringing a New Breeze to Shizuoka, Long Known as a Tea-producing Area Mr. Kosuke Amma, Amma Tea Manufacturer / Fukuroi City, Shizuoka Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Hirumaen Tea Studio is run by the owner of Hirumaen, who is also known as “Kyokuchajin.
Hirumaen is a relatively new tea farm in Iruma City, Saitama Prefecture, known as a production center of Sayama tea, and has been in business for more than 40 years.
The company produces a variety of teas, including hand-ripened teas, and as the name implies, it is committed to the highest quality from cultivation to tea production and sales.

Hand-momi-cha,” where each tea leaf is individually handled

If you know what kind of tea it is, you must be a connoisseur. Unlike ordinary Japanese tea leaves, which are dried by machine, te-momicha is literally dried by hand. The hand-moiled tea leaves are carefully rolled into a needle-like shape by a skilled tea master who spends a long time to finish the tea. The highest quality tea can cost over one million yen per kilogram. This tradition of hand-rolled tea has been handed down from generation to generation in Iruma City, Saitama Prefecture, known for its Sayama tea. The Hiruma-en Tea Studio is located on the Kaneko Plateau, a vast expanse of tea plantations as far as the eye can see.

In many other tea production areas, tea farmers, processors, and distributors are separated, but in the case of Sayama tea, many people do everything themselves,” said Hiruma. I think that is why the traditional hand-momi-cha technique has been passed down through the generations,” says Hiruma. By doing it consistently, Hiruma is able to sense the subtle changes in the tea leaves, which makes it possible to produce delicious tea.

There is an order to the rubbing process. There is an order to the rubbing process: rotary rubbing, rubbing through, DENGURI rubbing, and KOKURI rubbing. We change the rubbing method by feeling the temperature and humidity of the leaves with our hands.

The surface temperature of the roasting furnace is 40 to 50 degrees Celsius, and the steamed tea leaves “dance” in Hiruma’s hands as steam rises from the furnace. The steamed tea leaves “dance” in Hiruma’s hands while the steam rises. Nakata tried his hand at it, but it was extremely difficult to apply heat evenly to the entire tea leaves, which can be as large as one’s arm. He is able to produce a flavor that cannot be produced by a machine by interacting with each tea leaf one by one.

A tea master who has won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award seven times

Mr. Hiruma is also the chairman of the National Association for the Promotion of Handmade Tea, and has received the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries Award, the highest honor for tea masters, seven times. His pursuit of tea is so great that he has developed a new brewing method called “Yae-no-Kanade,” which is used to brew extremely well-polished tea. Mr. Hiruma, who is extraordinarily particular about tea, taught Nakada how to make teemomi tea. Only the best first-grade gyokuro tea leaves, which are hand-picked and covered two weeks before harvest, are made into teemaki tea. The tea leaves are then carefully hand-picked on a roasting furnace (hoiro), which is a special stand designed to heat the tea leaves from below and dry them while they are being hand-picked.

He says, “I rub them carefully, feeling not only the texture of the hand, but also the color, smell, and weight of the tea. If you don’t have this sense, you won’t be able to make a good hand-milled tea.

How to drink delicious hand-rubbed tea

Skilled artisans spend a lot of time and effort to make hand-momi-cha. The way to drink it is to pour a few drops of hot water over two or three te-momi teas and taste the “drops”. When you put it in your mouth, the flavor and aroma fills your mouth with a feeling of indescribable happiness that is hard to believe that it is just a few drops. It is also interesting to note that when the tea leaves open up beautifully, the tea leaves themselves are reproduced in their original form before drying. Once you drink it, you will understand why this tea is so expensive. It is quite a high-end product, but it is sold in small quantities to make it easier to find, so I recommend buying it as soon as you see it. With the advancement of mechanization, it is now easy to obtain delicious tea, but it is also good to take the time to taste something that takes a lot of time and effort to make.

We have been researching and developing tea techniques, seeking novelty while respecting tradition. We hope you will enjoy our high-quality teas, which are carefully hand-picked and hand-firred over time, and our new-fangled teas with gorgeous aromas like flowers and fruits.

The post Yoshiaki Hiruma, Hiruma-en, Tea Studio Hirumaen / Iruma City, Saitama Prefecture, Japan first appeared on NIHONMONO.

In Hoshino Village, Yame City, Fukuoka Prefecture, where there is a long history of gyokuro cultivation,
this tea garden continues to produce tea with the utmost care.
While preserving the culture and traditions of tea,
we produce Japanese teas that are in tune with diversifying lifestyles!

Hoshino Village, Yame City, Fukuoka Prefecture, has long been known as a tea production area. Despite its small population of 3,000, the village has been producing tea for more than 100 years, taking advantage of the mountainous area’s unique cold temperature difference, which is ideal for tea production. Especially famous is the “Yame Traditional Hon Gyokuro” produced here. We asked Mr. Shinya Yamaguchi of Hoshino Seichaen, who was the youngest person in history to receive the “tea master 10-dan” certification at the age of 32, one of only 15 in Japan, about the appeal of this “gyokuro.

What is gyokuro?

Gyokuro is considered to be one of the finest of all Japanese teas. Surprisingly, however, the reason for this is not the variety but the cultivation method. The tea leaves are shelved around the field and covered with a straw cover (kabuse) two to three weeks before harvest to block out the sun and enhance the flavor and aroma of the tea leaves.
Among producers of gyokuro, which is renowned as one of the finest tea products, Mr. Shinya Yamaguchi of Hoshino Seichaen has been attracting attention, winning the grand prize at the Japan Tea Awards.

Became the youngest tea master in history at the age of 32 to become a “tea master Judan.

The correct term is “Jyu-dan” in tea judging technique. In the “tea judging technique competition,” participants compete in tea appraisal skills in the four judging categories of tea variety, tea season, tea production area, and tea aroma and flavor. The title ” Chashi Judan ” is given to tea masters who have obtained the highest rank of Judan. There are only 15 tea masters in Japan who hold this title, and Mr. Yamaguchi is the youngest tea professional in history at the age of 32.

The Work of a Tea Master

Currently, Mr. Yamaguchi is in charge of product quality control at Hoshino Tea Farm. First, he examines and selects tea leaves (rough tea leaves = tea leaves that have been plucked, steamed, rubbed, and dried), and carefully selects the best tea leaves. From there, the tea leaves are fired to finish the tea. The tea leaves are then fired, using a combination of shelf-type hot-air drying and direct heating, as well as far-infrared heating, to bring out the wonderful flavor and aroma from the core of the tea leaves. The tea leaves with different characteristics are blended to make products. This is called “Gokumi,” and the process of identifying and blending the tea leaves is where the tea master shows his skills.

A traditional method that has been used for 100 years

Cultivation of gyokuro is a labor-intensive process that requires extremely advanced techniques and many years of experience, as well as soil and climate suitable for cultivation. Among these, Yame, where Hoshino Village is located, accounts for more than 50% of the nation’s gyokuro production, making it the “largest producer of gyokuro in Japan.

However, it is not only the amount of production that is impressive. It is the traditional production method that has continued for 100 years in this region. In the first place, there is a clear difference in the manufacturing method between gyokuro and Yame traditional hongyokuro. In order to be called Yame traditional hon gyokuro, there are seven cultivation conditions, and only those that meet all of them can be called Yame traditional hon gyokuro. The conditions are: 1) the tea plantation must be naturally grown; 2) the cultivation must be well managed; 3) the covering must be made of straw; 4) the covering period must be at least 16 days; 5) the tea leaves must be handpicked; 6) the tea leaves must be picked at the right time to prevent hardening; and 7) the tea leaves must be grown in the right place and at the right time to prevent the leaves from being damaged. 7. The tea leaves must be carefully managed and produced without defects.

The time and effort that goes into this traditional production method , ” says Yamaguchi, ” makes it different from other teas in terms of color, aroma, and flavor.

The difference in efficacy and taste of Yame Traditional Hon Gyokuro

Thus, Yame Traditional Hon Gyokuro is made by sticking to traditional techniques. Its efficacy and taste are very different from other gyokuro and Japanese teas. It is characterized by its mild umami and high richness. This is because it is rich in theanine, a type of amino acid that is a flavor component. Normally, when exposed to sunlight, theanine is decomposed and converted into catechins, which are astringent and bitter-tasting components. However, Gyokuro, which grows in almost no sunlight, is not affected by this.

Gyokuro is produced by a combination of a carefully selected manufacturing process, a favorable production area, and a producer with advanced technology and many years of experience. The Yame traditional Gyokuro that can be produced only when these three things come together is the highest quality Gyokuro that contains more flavor components than regular Gyokuro, yet has almost no astringency or bitterness, and can extract the maximum amount of Gyokuro’s original umami.

How to make delicious Yame traditional Gyokuro

As you can see from the previous methods, the method of brewing gyokuro is different from that of sencha or Japanese tea, which are generally referred to as “tea. Brew the tea in a cool water bath and pour about 20ml of the cooled water into a bowl for gyokuro tea. Put about 4 teaspoons of tea leaves in the kyusu and brew slowly for 2 to 3 minutes with the hot water from the cooled teacup, and wait for the tea to infuse. This is about the extent of drowning the tea leaves. However, this carefully brewed gyokuro conveys a robust sweetness and flavor with just a few drops in the mouth. It is rich and has no astringency or bitterness.

It has a luxurious taste. Gyokuro is not a drink to be served with meals, but rather to be enjoyed on its own for its true flavor, ” says Nakata.

Traditions handed down through continuous innovation

As lifestyles diversify with the changing times, the needs for tea have become more diverse. Hoshino Seichaen, while cherishing the traditions of Japanese tea, is constantly challenging itself to develop further tea products that are more in tune with people’s lifestyles.

Producing matcha by applying traditional gyokuro cultivation methods. Hojicha (roasted green tea) made from the stems of gyokuro. They are also engaged in the production of teas other than gyokuro and the development of processed tea products, such as hojicha, which uses the stems of gyokuro.

We will continue to pass on the culture and authentic taste of tea, which is the pride of Japan, by pursuing the possibilities of tea and continuing to innovate to meet ever-changing tastes, ” said Yamaguchi. says Mr. Yamaguchi.

We cannot take our eyes off of the future of Hoshino Seichaen, which will spare no effort to preserve and further pursue Japan’s unique “tea” culture. Hoshino Seichaen’s products are available at their stores and online store.

Hoshino Seichaen employs many Japanese tea instructors and advisors, including a tea master with the rank of “tea judging technique 10th dan,” also known as “tea master 10th dan. From among the many varieties of tea available, we will introduce you to delicious teas that meet your taste preferences, intended use, and other requirements. Please feel free to consult with us.

You can also find more information here.

The post The true taste of tea produced by “gyokuro” – Mr. Shinya Yamaguchi of Yame Traditional Hon Gyokuro Hoshino Seichaen / Yame City, Fukuoka Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Blissful tea time in a “tea room without a roof

The specialty of Ureshino City in Saga Prefecture is Ureshino tea. It is said that tea cultivation techniques were introduced from China during the Muromachi period and began in this region. In early May, just as the harvest begins, visiting Ureshino reveals steam rising from many tea factories, and the fragrant aroma of tea fills the air throughout the town. Typically, tea is produced by farmers who grow the tea leaves, and wholesalers who process and sell the product. However, Soejimaen handles everything from cultivation to sales in-house.

“Ureshino is known for its steamed green tea, which has its roots in kamairicha (pan-fired tea). It is also called guri-cha, meaning ‘tea balls,’ because it looks like balls.”

The fourth-generation owner, Hitoshi Soejima, has been committed to pesticide-free and reduced-pesticide cultivation with an eye on the future of Ureshino tea. He handles everything from packaging design to sales, expanding distribution nationwide.

“Since my father’s generation, we have reduced our cultivation area to focus on pesticide-free and reduced-pesticide farming, and we sell directly to customers to ensure safe and secure tea. Our tea is now used in famous ryokan (traditional inns), and the number of fans is growing.”

Tea house without a roof

Walking through a tea field where harvesting has just begun. From the slopes of the hilltop field at Soejimaen, you can see the town of Ureshino. It was the 88th night of spring, a day when it is said that drinking tea picked on this day will bring good health. The Soejima family was busy picking tea leaves by hand.

“Here, we not only grow green tea but also experiment with black tea. We want to preserve tea culture by trying various things,”

Mr. Fukushima explained as he led me to a “roofless tea house” built in the center of the highest tea field. Under the clear blue sky, I enjoyed the new tea while being gently caressed by the refreshing breeze. The first tea served was warm tea poured into small cups. It was rich in umami and sweetness, with no bitterness or astringency. The second cup was cold tea steeped overnight. Served in a champagne flute, it had a refreshing sweetness. The flavor was deep, and the color was vibrant. It was completely different from the bottled tea sold at convenience stores.

“Tea is a drink whose delicate flavor varies depending on the variety, production method, and how it is brewed. But even though it is as familiar as sake, if not more so, most people don’t know much about it. I want to learn more about Japanese tea.”

The best tea time spent in a “roofless tea room.” Nakata also rediscovered the true power of Japanese tea.

The post Blissful tea time in a “roofless tea room” at Soejimaen / Ureshino City, Saga Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.