Located on the main island of Okinawa, in Naha City, Shuri is a district known for its particularly historic, old-fashioned streetscape. Right in the heart of Shuri Castle, Tamanaha Miso Shoyu has been crafting miso for 170 years. Using the same methods as when the company was founded, they continue to produce their miso through natural fermentation in well-seasoned wooden barrels.

A miso brewery in Okinawa that makes its own miso from scratch using koji—a rarity even in Okinawa

Until about 120 years ago, Okinawa was a single kingdom known as Ryukyu. Shuri, home to Shuri Castle, served as the capital of the Ryukyu Kingdom. This area was once lined with samurai residences. In fact, it was here—on the site of a former samurai residence—that Tamanaha Miso & Soy Sauce began producing miso and soy sauce between 1855 and 1860, during the final years of the Ryukyu Kingdom.

The koji mold that survived the ravages of war

As you walk up the hill, you’ll come across an old stone wall that exudes a sense of history. This imposing, stately wall dates back to before the war. Although the building itself was destroyed during the Battle of Okinawa, the pillars that survived the fire were preserved in an air-raid shelter, and it is said that the koji mold that grew on them helped preserve the distinctive flavor of Tamana.

Even within Okinawa Prefecture, miso breweries that make miso from scratch using koji are rare. Although they used to brew soy sauce as well, production was suspended about 10 years ago due to aging equipment.

Even after the transition to U.S. military rule, there were reportedly quite a few breweries producing miso and soy sauce in Shuri alone. However, following the reversion to Japanese sovereignty in 1972, products from outside the prefecture flooded the market, causing most of these breweries to go out of business.

The “entirely handmade” miso-making tradition upheld by the fifth-generation master

The current head of Tamana Miso Shoyu is Yumi Oshiro, the sixth-generation head of the family. She is the eldest daughter of Arinori Tamana, the fifth-generation head, who passed away in April 2025.

Brewed in well-seasoned wooden barrels, with careful maintenance

We use traditional wooden barrels to make our miso. We mix steamed whole soybeans with rice koji and Okinawan sea salt, then allow the mixture to ferment and mature.

As he opened the door to the koji room, a wave of muggy air poured out. Inside the room, where the temperature hovered around 36°C due to the fermentation of the koji, the plant manager was intently studying the rows of koji boxes lined up before him.

The photo shows the starter culture prepared two days ago. The rice koji, made from domestic rice used in the company’s miso, turns yellowish about four days after the starter culture is added. As fermentation progresses further, the temperature inside the fermentation room reportedly reaches around 40°C.

In Okinawa’s hot and humid climate, microorganisms are highly active, making fermentation progress more easily than on the mainland. After fermenting and aging for about 3 to 4 months in the summer and 6 to 7 months in the winter, the miso is ready.

Our signature product, “Dyōcho Miso,” is made with soybeans from Kyushu. It has a mellow flavor with a subtle sweetness from the rice and soybeans. We also produce “Shuri Miso,” made with soybeans from overseas; “Uchin Miso,” which contains turmeric; and “Special Selection Miso,” a blend of rice and barley miso.

In addition to selling directly from their store, they have sold their products at local supermarkets and online. At one point, production couldn’t keep up with demand, and they had to stop accepting new online orders, but they have now resumed sales at a pace of once or twice a month.

“Our miso costs 1,000 yen, but there are people who are willing to pay 1,200 yen in shipping just to buy it from the mainland. We’re truly grateful,” says Yumi.

The ideal environment for bacteria

Okinawa, where temperature fluctuations are relatively mild throughout the year, provides an ideal environment for bacterial activity. Inside large barrels, lactic acid bacteria and yeast are actively at work as the miso matures. The rows of well-worn barrels may be misshapen or have leaks, but they are carefully repaired time and again to ensure they can be used for as long as possible. By minimizing the need to replace them, the shop has preserved the same flavor it has offered since its founding.

Although they could have opted for easier-to-maintain enamel or reinforced plastic tanks, they chose to keep the wooden one because wood provides excellent insulation and heat retention, allowing it to maintain a consistent temperature regardless of the weather. As a result, they have been carefully maintaining and using it for decades.

Even though production can’t keep up with demand, we never compromise on efficiency; we continue to follow the traditional methods that have been carefully preserved over the years.

Although Tamanaha Miso and Soy Sauce remains in short supply, we ensure a steady supply of our miso for the school lunches at a nearby daycare center. We support the daycare’s food education program and want the children to grow up eating local foods made right here in our community.

New wooden barrels for the first time in 80 years

In fact, in February 2026, we just acquired a brand-new wooden barrel for the first time in 80 years. Crafted by one of the few remaining traditional wooden barrel makers on the mainland—a profession that is becoming increasingly rare in Japan—it was assembled using no metal whatsoever, relying solely on cedar planks, bamboo nails, and a bamboo hoop. We are now beginning to brew miso in this brand-new wooden barrel, which is said to last for 100 years.

Miso is a fermented seasoning that represents Japan’s proud culture of fermentation. Nationwide, the number of miso breweries that make miso from scratch using koji has dwindled, and those that ferment it in wooden barrels can be counted on one hand.

The unique flavor of this miso is the result of a combination of traditional, unchanging handcrafted methods and the environment unique to this location. To preserve the flavor that has been carefully passed down through generations, the challenges of this small miso brewery continue.

The post Naturally brewed in wooden barrels since the days of the Ryukyu Kingdom: Tamanaha Miso Soy Sauce / Naha City, Okinawa Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Omishima, Imabari City, is one of the islands on the Shimanami Sea Route, which connects Ehime and Hiroshima Prefectures. Hakata Shogyo Corporation, which has a factory here, is a salt manufacturer that produces Hakata no Shio (Hakata salt), widely known for its commercials with a striking sound logo. Founded 52 years ago, the company’s history is steeped in the history of the salt industry in the Seto Inland Sea and salt in Japan.

The Birth of Hakko-no-Salt

The birthplace of Hakata-no-Salt is Hakata Island, also located in the island of Imabari City. The island, located along the Shimanami Sea Route, was the last remaining salt field in Ehime Prefecture, and has a history of a consumer movement to protect salt produced using the salt fields that the Japanese are familiar with.

The Seto Inland Sea coastline has few rainy days throughout the year, and the tidal range is large. Around 1953, a more efficient method of salt production was introduced, called the “falling-back” method, which utilizes the land three-dimensionally and allows salt to be produced regardless of the season, day or night. By 1957, all salt fields on Hakata Island had been converted from “irihama-style salt fields” to “irihama-style salt fields with branch and row racks”.

Hakata no Shio” (Hakata salt), born from a consumer movement

　In the early Showa period (1926-1989), approximately 90% of the nation’s salt production was concentrated in the Seto Inland Sea region, which includes Ehime, Kagawa, and Hiroshima. At its peak, Hakata Island produced approximately 24,000 tons of salt annually. This represents about 2-3% of the nation’s annual salt production, and the fact that such a large percentage was produced on a small island shows how the salt industry was a major industry on Hakata Island.

Since the enactment of the “Salt Monopoly Law” in 1905, salt, like cigarettes and alcohol, has been a national product, and its production and sales have been under the control of the government. In order to shift from agrarian salt production to industrial mass production during Japan’s period of rapid economic growth, the Law on Temporary Measures for the Modernization of the Salt Industry was enacted in 1971, banning in principle all methods of salt production other than those using ion-exchange membranes. As a result, the traditional Japanese salt fields disappeared, and the scenery of the “flowing salt fields with branch and joint bridges” on Hakata Island, which once stretched over dozens of hectares, was buried in history.

However, the salt produced by this method was used for industrial purposes and chemical products, and its safety for food use was not sufficiently ensured. This concern about the safety of salt led to a consumer movement to preserve natural salt.

Food should be as close to nature as possible. There is absolutely no need to use chemicals and force over-refined ion-exchange membrane salt, which is purified like chemicals, to be used for food. The campaign for the preservation of natural salt was launched by the late Fujiko Sugamoto, the permanent chairperson of the Japan Natural Salt Promotion Association, and other people who were consumers of natural salt, including some who lived in Matsuyama City. The campaign to preserve natural salt was led by the late Fujiko Sugamoto, the permanent president of the Japan Natural Salt Promotion Association, and volunteers living in Matsuyama City who were also consumers. The movement spread nationwide, and with the cooperation of consumers and organizations in various regions, 50,000 signatures were collected in a short period of time, making it a major movement to influence the government.

In 1973, Hakata no Shio (Hakata salt) was born.

Producing safe and reliable salt under strict conditions

Unlike sun-dried salt, which is obtained by evaporating seawater in the sun, Hakkata-no-shio salt is produced by completely dissolving sun-dried salt imported from Mexico and Australia in seawater from the Seto Inland Sea, filtering it to produce clean, thick salt water (dissolution process), and boiling it in a pot to recrystallize the salt. This dissolution process is also important to ensure that the salt contains the bittern component of seawater. Sun-dried salt produced in large-scale overseas salt fields over a period of two to three years is industrial salt, so the bittern component is intentionally removed. The bittern is then dissolved in seawater from the Seto Inland Sea, leaving just the right amount of bittern to create a mild salt without a salty taste. This process was permitted by the Japanese government in 1973, except for ion-exchange membrane salt production, and is a somewhat special process that was developed at a time when making salt directly from seawater was restricted. However, it makes sense in terms of keeping production costs down and ensuring stable quality and prices, and it continues to be used to this day with repeated improvements. Unlike industrial methods that emphasize efficiency, salt production is full of tradition and ingenuity.

Imported sun-dried salt is dissolved in seawater from the Seto Inland Sea to create a thick brine that is slowly boiled down in a cauldron to form salt crystals. After removing excess water, the crystallized salt is allowed to dry naturally in the factory for several days, and finally undergoes a process to thoroughly remove foreign substances.

Salt with just the right amount of bittern left

The representative of the company, Mr. Kazumi Ishimaru, says that one of the characteristics of Hakkata salt is that it is salt with just the right amount of bittern left in it . Salt composed only of sodium chloride tends to have a sharp taste, giving a sharp “salt angle” sensation on the tongue. This is why it is important to have a moderate amount of bittern, which contains magnesium chloride and other elements. The right amount of bittern gives depth to the salty taste and creates a mellow flavor. However, too much bittern will cause a strong bitter taste, so the balance of the amount is very delicate.

At Hakata-no-Salt, salt is naturally dried for several days after being boiled in a cauldron in order to retain just the right amount of bittern. This is because if the salt is forcibly dehydrated using a machine, the bittern that is attached to the crystals is removed along with the water. The salt is also mixed and loosened before packaging so that the liquid bittern that slowly drips down during the drying process spreads evenly over the crystals.

The goal is old-fashioned salt

In 1997, a new law made it possible to freely produce salt from seawater in Japan, and a variety of unique salt products using different salt-making methods began to emerge across the country. At this time, Hakata Salt Industry took on the challenge of recreating the salt manufacturing method using the “ryukashiki shijyo kyoyuyo enen,” which was once a part of the scenery of Hakata Island.

The salt paddies are composed of a “flow-through panel,” in which seawater is poured onto a gently sloping gravel bed and circulated to evaporate water with the heat of the sun to create thick salt water, and a “branch and rail” structure made of bamboo branches, from which seawater drips down to increase salt concentration with the force of the wind. Because the system utilizes the power of nature, work is temporarily halted when it rains, but if there is wind, the “branch and jog rack” can be operated day and night to raise the salt concentration. The thick salt water thus produced is boiled down in a flat pot to make salt. This salt manufacturing method, which is influenced by nature, is truly in harmony with nature.

After reviewing the “flowing salt field with branch and joints” as a means of passing on the technology, we were able to confirm once again that the traditional salt taste that Hakata-no-Salt was aiming for has been reproduced under the conditions of the past, and that this salt manufacturing method makes sense even in modern times.

Passing on the Technology and Symbols

Hakata Salt will celebrate 52 years in business in 2025. Most salt manufacturers were founded after the abolition of the “Salt Monopoly Law,” and there are only about 10 salt manufacturers in Japan with a history of more than 50 years.

Hakata Salt Industry’s philosophy on salt has remained consistent since its establishment. Salt is indispensable for human life, and like water and air, there is no substitute for it. It is not just a seasoning, but a ‘basic food. And we have set ourselves the goal of “pursuing the health optimization of salt and providing it to as many people as possible at as low a price as possible. As a manufacturer with a deep understanding of the history of salt production in Japan, the company is well aware of the importance of salt. They will continue to stay close to consumers and continue to move forward with the history of salt in Japan.

The post The Challenge of Hakata Salt Industry: Connecting the Memory of Salt Fields and Walking with the History of Salt / Imabari City, Ehime Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Soy sauce is an indispensable fermented seasoning for the Japanese.Recently, however, the number of soy sauce breweries engaged in its production has been declining.There are concerns about the decline of this traditional industry.Against this backdrop, Mr. Yoshinori Jo of Mitsuru Soy Sauce Brewery in Itoshima City, Fukuoka Prefecture, is taking up the challenge of reviving traditional breweries and making soy sauce with his own hands.

Decided to make soy sauce after learning that the company did not brew its own soy sauce

Most of them purchase soy sauce called “kiage” shoyu, which is made from unrefined soy sauce that has not been heat-treated or filtered, from soy sauce cooperatives or manufacturers.The soy sauce is then heated and seasoned only by the company itself.This is largely due to the “Law for the Promotion of Modernization of Small and Medium Enterprises” enacted in 1963.At that time, the government subsidized local cooperatives and manufacturers to efficiently produce products essential to daily life.While capital investment accelerated large-scale production, many small breweries stopped brewing their own products and shifted to purchasing from suppliers.Mitsuru Soy Sauce was one such brewery.
Having grown up with the aroma of soy sauce from an early age, Mr. Shiro naturally thought he would take over the family business.However, when he visited a large factory of a soy sauce cooperative as part of his work experience at an agricultural high school, he learned about the specific manufacturing process of soy sauce for the first time.I smelled the steamed soybeans, learned about koji and moromi, and thought, “Soy sauce is amazing.On the other hand, I felt sad that I didn’t have my own home brewery, and I wanted to make my own soy sauce someday!I wanted to make my own soy sauce someday!After graduating from high school, he went on to study brewing at Tokyo University of Agriculture.He began to study soy sauce making all over again.
While I was still a student!and went on an apprenticeship at soy sauce breweries all over the country.

While I’m still a student!”and train as a warrior at soy sauce breweries across the country.

Mr. Shiro began his journey into soy sauce making, but Mitsuru Soy Sauce had been out of brewing for more than 30 years, so he was unable to learn the know-how from his family, and the factory did not have any brewing equipment.Under these circumstances, Mr. Shiro, who was still a student, came up with the idea of traveling to breweries across the country to learn about soy sauce making.

I had a clear idea of what I wanted to do when I entered university, so I worked hard in my classroom, and during spring break, which coincided with the soy sauce brewing period, I asked my university professor for introductions and soy sauce breweries I met at department store events to let me study here for one week.I asked them to let me study here for a week, and they accepted me.Once I joined the family business, it would be very difficult to ask other manufacturers for training, so I decided to go as far as I could, thinking that I could only do this while I was still a student,” he said.

Thus, by the time he graduated, he had visited seven breweries and learned about soy sauce production at each.After graduation, he spent a year training at Okamoto Soy Sauce in Hiroshima, and before returning to Itoshima, he enrolled in a food coordinator training school in Tokyo to learn more about soy sauce production and its surroundings.After returning to Fukuoka, he began to steadily prepare for the revival of his business.

Start by fixing the sleeping vats and building the koji room.

However, the brewery was not equipped with a brewing environment that would allow him to make use of the knowledge and experience he had gained, so his first challenge was to set up facilities.

With the help of craftsmen, he repaired the wooden vats that had been sitting in the warehouse and built a new room for making koji.We didn’t even have a kettle for steaming soybeans, so we really needed the help of various professionals.For the wooden vats, we asked craftsmen from Fujii Seikosho, the only vat manufacturer in Japan that can produce large wooden vats using traditional methods, to come to our house in Osaka.They repaired the ones that could be used, but only two of the five that remained were usable.We started with those two and gradually increased the number of barrels.In this way, the vats, which had been lying dormant for some time, were brought back to life, and brewing began for the first time in about 40 years.

From the past to the present.Yeast Connects Soy Sauce Making from Our Predecessors

When Mr. Shiro was in college, he took yeast from a pillar in a warehouse that had been covered with mash that had been scattered from the vats when Mitsuru Soy Sauce used to brew its own soy sauce.This yeast was used in the first brewing of Mitsuru Soy Sauce, thus connecting the history of Mitsuru Soy Sauce.Perhaps it was this effect that led to the release in February 2013 of the first dark soy sauce since the revival of brewing, “Namaari,” which was greeted with the comment, “A wonderful soy sauce has been born!”and people from all over Japan praised the new product.

Many people I met during my time in Tokyo, such as the editors-in-chief of cooking magazines and writers, introduced me to many people who were well versed in the food industry,” he said.Word of our reputation spread by word of mouth, and we began to be used at famous sushi restaurants and French restaurants.

The reason why I chose the brand name “Namaire,” is because I wanted to keep it simple.I wanted to keep it simple.I wanted to keep it simple. I used local ingredients from Itoshima, handmade koji, and the traditional method of making soy sauce in wooden vats, and I chose the word “Namaire” to express the pure impression.

The ingredients are made in Itoshima and Okinawan salt.We challenge ourselves to make pesticide-free soy sauce and new type of soy sauce.

Eleven years have passed since the first shipment.Today, the soy sauce produced by Mr. Shiro is loved by many people and restaurants in Fukuoka and Tokyo.The ingredients are locally grown soybeans (fukuyutaka) and wheat (minami no kaori) from Itoshima, and the salt is shimasu from Okinawa.They sell dark, light, and re-finish soy sauces, as well as a pesticide-free dark soy sauce and a light-colored soy sauce called “orange.We had been trying to produce the pesticide-free soy sauce with the cooperation of local farmers since the beginning, but we had to stop production due to soil problems, etc. When we met with cooking expert Yoshiko Tatsumi, she blackmailed us, saying, “Why don’t you make it!She then asked me, “Why don’t you make it?I was given such an opportunity and started making it again with pesticide-free soybeans grown in Kyushu.Orange is a new soy sauce that we started to sell in 2023, and it is pressed before the moromi begins to ferment with lactic acid bacteria and yeast.We think you will enjoy the new flavor of soy sauce,” he says.When you actually lick the orange, you will find that the flavor is strong but the aroma of soy sauce is not strong, and the sweetness unique to koji spreads.It gives the impression of a new seasoning that is soy sauce but not soy sauce.

After starting to make soy sauce, I now understand why so many people are moving away from soy sauce production.Even if you prepare it the old-fashioned way, it’s tough from a business standpoint and takes a lot of time and effort.It is not an easy job.But I still want to stick to handmade, in-house brewing.I want to make use of everything that is produced during the soy sauce making process, such as selling the moromi and processing the strained lees into furikake, and I want to pursue new soy sauce possibilities, such as orange.Mr. Shiro hopes to continue to produce soy sauce on the current scale, without expanding to a larger scale.It seems certain that many people in the soy sauce industry, the culinary industry, and repeat customers will continue to pay close attention to what kind of soy sauce Mitsuru Soy Sauce will be releasing in the future.

The post Reviving in-house brewing from scratch: Mitsuru Soy Sauce Brewery, Yoshinori Jo, Itoshima City, Fukuoka Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Soy sauce is an indispensable fermented seasoning for the Japanese. Recently, however, the number of soy sauce breweries engaged in its production has been declining. There is concern that the traditional industry is in decline. In the midst of this situation, Mr. Yoshinori Jo of Mitsuru Soy Sauce Brewery in Itoshima City, Fukuoka Prefecture, has taken up the challenge of reviving traditional breweries and making soy sauce with his own hands.

Determined to make soy sauce when he learned that they were not brewing their own soy sauce

While there are many soy sauce makers in Japan, few of them are engaged in the entire process of soy sauce production, from raw material processing to pressing, and most of them purchase soy sauce called “kiage shoyu,” which is made from unprocessed, unfiltered soy sauce, from soy sauce cooperatives or makers, and only heat and season it themselves. The soy sauce is then heated and seasoned only by the company itself. This is largely due to the “Law for the Promotion of Modernization of Small and Medium Enterprises” enacted in 1963. At that time, the government subsidized local cooperatives and manufacturers to efficiently produce products essential to daily life. While capital investment accelerated large-scale production, many small breweries stopped brewing their own products and shifted to purchasing from suppliers. Mitsuru Soy Sauce was one such brewery.

Having grown up with the aroma of soy sauce from an early age, Mr. Shiro naturally thought he would take over the family business. However, when he visited a large factory of a soy sauce cooperative as part of his work experience at an agricultural high school, he learned about the specific manufacturing process of soy sauce for the first time. I smelled the steamed soybeans, learned about koji and moromi, and thought, “Soy sauce is amazing. On the other hand, I felt sad that I didn’t have my own home brewery, and I wanted to make my own soy sauce someday! I wanted to make my own soy sauce someday! After graduating from high school, he went on to study brewing at Tokyo University of Agriculture. He began to study soy sauce making all over again.

While still a student! and went on an apprenticeship at soy sauce breweries all over the country.

However, Mitsuru Soy Sauce had been out of the brewing business for more than 30 years, so he was unable to learn from his family and there were no brewing facilities in the factory. Under these circumstances, Mr. Shiro, who was still a student, came up with the idea of traveling to breweries across the country to learn about soy sauce making.

I had a clear idea of what I wanted to do when I entered university, so I worked hard in my classroom, and during spring break, which coincided with the soy sauce brewing period, I asked my university professor for introductions and soy sauce breweries I met at department store events to let me study here for one week. I asked them to let me study here for a week, and they accepted me. Once I joined the family business, it would be very difficult to ask other manufacturers for training, so I decided to go as far as I could, thinking that I could only do this while I was still a student.

Thus, by the time he graduated, he had visited seven breweries and learned about soy sauce production at each. After graduation, he spent a year working at Okamoto Soy Sauce in Hiroshima, and before returning to Itoshima, he enrolled in a food coordinator training school in Tokyo to learn more about soy sauce production and its surroundings. After returning to Fukuoka, he began to steadily prepare for the revival of his business.

He started by repairing the vats that had been lying dormant and building a koji mold room.

Mr. Shiro returned to his parents’ home with a full of energy, but even though he wanted to use the knowledge and experience he had gained, the brewing environment at his factory was not yet ready, so his first challenge was to set up facilities.

With the help of craftsmen, he repaired the wooden vats that had been sitting in the warehouse and built a new room for making koji. We didn’t even have a kettle for steaming soybeans, so we really needed the help of various professionals. For the wooden vats, we asked craftsmen from Fujii Seikosho, the only vat manufacturer in Japan that can produce large wooden vats using traditional methods, to come to our house in Osaka. They repaired the ones that could be used, but only two of the five that remained were usable. We started with those two and gradually increased the number of vats. In this way, the vats, which had been lying dormant for some time, were brought back to life, and brewing began for the first time in about 40 years.

From the past to the present. Yeast Links Soy Sauce Craftsmanship from Predecessors

When Mr. Shiro was in college, he took yeast from a pillar in the warehouse that had been covered with mash that had been scattered from the vats when Mitsuru Soy Sauce was brewing its own soy sauce in the past, cultivated it, and froze it. This yeast was used in the first brewing of Mitsuru Soy Sauce, thus connecting the history of Mitsuru Soy Sauce. Perhaps this was a factor in the success of the soy sauce, but when Mitsuru Soy Sauce released its first dark soy sauce, “Namaari,” in February 2013, it received praise from all over Japan. The soy sauce was praised by people from all over Japan.

Many food-savvy people introduced us, including people at the brewery where I trained, and the editors-in-chief of cooking magazines and writers I met during my time in Tokyo. The reputation of the product spread by word of mouth, and it came to be used at famous sushi restaurants and French restaurants.

The reason why he chose the brand name “Namaire,” is because he wanted to keep it simple, “There is a lot of information on the packaging of soy sauce that is particular about soy sauce, such as ‘domestic soybeans’ and ‘made in wooden vats. I wanted to keep it simple. I wanted to keep it simple. I used local ingredients from Itoshima, handmade koji, and wooden vat brewing, which is a traditional production method, and I chose the word “raw” to express the pure impression.

The ingredients are made in Itoshima and Okinawan salt. Tackling the challenge of pesticide-free soy sauce and new types of soy sauce

Eleven years have passed since the first shipment. Today, the soy sauce produced by Mr. Shiro is loved by many people and restaurants, especially in his hometown Fukuoka and Tokyo. The ingredients are locally grown soybeans (fukuyutaka) and wheat (minami no kaori) from Itoshima, and the salt is shimasu from Okinawa. They sell dark, light, and re-finish soy sauces, as well as a pesticide-free dark soy sauce and a light-colored soy sauce called “orange. We had been trying to produce the pesticide-free soy sauce with the cooperation of local farmers since the beginning, but we had to stop production due to soil problems, etc. When we met with cooking expert Yoshiko Tatsumi, she blackmailed us, saying, “Why don’t you make it? She then asked me, “Why don’t you make it? I was given such an opportunity and started making it again with pesticide-free soybeans grown in Kyushu. Orange is a new soy sauce that we started to sell in 2023, and it is pressed before the moromi begins to ferment with lactic acid bacteria and yeast. We think you will enjoy the new flavor of soy sauce,” he says. When you actually lick the orange, you will find that the flavor is strong but the aroma of soy sauce is not strong, and the sweetness unique to koji spreads. It tastes like a new seasoning that is soy sauce but not soy sauce.

After I started making soy sauce, I understood why so many people are leaving the soy sauce business. Even if you prepare it the old-fashioned way, it’s tough from a business standpoint, and it takes a lot of time and effort. It is not an easy job. But I still want to stick to handmade, in-house brewing. I want to make use of everything that is produced during the soy sauce making process, such as selling the moromi and processing the strained lees into furikake, and I want to pursue new soy sauce possibilities, such as orange. Mr. Shiro hopes to continue to make soy sauce on the current scale without expanding to a larger scale. It seems certain that many people in the soy sauce industry, the culinary industry, and repeat customers will continue to pay close attention to what kind of soy sauce Mitsuru Soy Sauce will be releasing in the future.

The post Yoshinori Shiro of Mitsuru Soy Sauce Brewery revives in-house brewing by starting from scratch / Itoshima City, Fukuoka Prefecture, Japan first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The Origin of HANGOBEI Grocery Store

Ltd., located in Sanjo City, roughly in the center of Niigata Prefecture, began its business as a grocer dealing in malt, fruits and vegetables, and grains in 1811 (Bunka 8), during the Edo period (1603-1868). At that time, brewing malt and controlling temperature and bacteria required a high level of technology. It is said that the origin of this business started when the first generation, Hangobei, started a business using malt called “chinkouji,” in which he received one square of rice, brewed it, and exchanged it for one square of malt. They also began making miso and pickles by utilizing the techniques of controlling temperature and bacteria cultivated in the malt-making process, and started dealing in local special vegetables as well.

Making use of technology for “delicious food for everyone, anytime

As the times changed and households stopped making their own soy sauce and miso, miso and soy sauce began to replace them, and along with pickles, became the mainstay of sales. As food became more Westernized, sales of miso and soy sauce began to decline. Then, in 2011, the flooding of the Igarashi River damaged the miso and soy sauce warehouses at the time, and that was the end of miso and soy sauce production.

Currently, the company’s main business is processed foods such as pickles.

Today, pickles and other processed foods are the mainstay of the company’s sales, but it also continues to utilize its grocery store aspect as a wholesaler of fresh vegetables for restaurants and a middleman who wholesales cut vegetables to supermarkets.

In this snowy area, there is not much variation in the vegetables available in the winter, so the company has devised a way to make a wide variety of vegetables available even during the winter season by pickling fresh vegetables in salt. Through Nojima Shokuhin’s processing technology, even those vegetables that are not widely available in the market due to their short harvest season or freshness can now be enjoyed by anyone at any time of the year.

Niigata is Japan’s largest eggplant producer. Eggplant Processing: High Technological Strength

The know-how accumulated since the company’s establishment has enabled Nojima Foods to successfully commercialize “Juzen Eggplant,” which was considered difficult to commercialize due to its poor shelf life.

In fact, Niigata Prefecture is Japan’s largest eggplant producer. Juzen eggplants for pickles are smaller than most eggplants. They are also known as “nashi nasu” (pear eggplant), and are widely loved by local residents. Nojima Shokuhin is said to be the only company in the world that handles everything from cultivation to processing.

New Products Promoting Niigata’s Attractiveness

The fresh vegetable procurement routes and vegetable preservation and processing technologies that Nojima Shokuhin has cultivated over its history as a grocer are now being developed into new products that are being sold throughout Japan.

The “Grocery Store Dressing” series was developed as a new product for the next generation of Nojima Foods in the midst of the dwindling pickle consumption market.

In order to deliver fresh vegetables to consumers nationwide, the company had to solve the inevitable problem of freshness, such as transportation time, which could not be overcome. By choosing to make a dressing, the company was able to ensure the longevity of the product and expand its sales channels. The company also decided to take the plunge, believing that the convenience of the dressing would make it easier for people of all ages to accept the product and win over more fans. The company aims to expand nationwide under the brand “Yaoya Hangobei,” named after the first generation Hangobei.

Attention to making the best use of the taste of the ingredients themselves

The lineup consists of six kinds of vegetables and three kinds of fruits. The lineup consists of three kinds of vegetables, three kinds of fruits, “Carrots under snow” whose sweetness is enhanced by wintering under snow, “Uonuma Wasabi” cultivated in the subsoil water of Mt. Echigohime” strawberries are large, high in sugar content, have a gentle acidity, and a mellow aroma. We were particular about making the most of the characteristics of the ingredients themselves. In order to bring out the original taste, aroma, and color of the ingredients, no chemical seasonings, synthetic preservatives, or synthetic coloring agents are used, and a non-heating process is employed.

As can be seen from the lineup, the company is dedicated to making people aware of the deliciousness of Niigata’s unique vegetables and fruits.

Niigata’s delicious vegetables are not available outside of the prefecture

There are many delicious vegetables in Niigata, but most of them are consumed within the prefecture. That is why they are not famous throughout Japan,” says Yusuke Nojima of the company. Perhaps due to its low name recognition, the company struggled when it first began selling the dressing, but once it was used in the first-class in-flight meals of a major airline, inquiries came in from supermarkets in the Tokyo metropolitan area, and the product gradually gained recognition.

Koshihikari is not the only underlying strength of Niigata’s agricultural products.

Niigata has a strong image as a rice-producing region, with Koshihikari and other rice varieties often hidden from view, but the variety of crops harvested in Niigata is actually quite rich. In the Edo period (1603-1867), Niigata was a port of call for the Kitamae Ship, which brought in a variety of crops from both cold and warm regions, from east, west, south, and north. With cold winters and hot summers, abundant snowmelt, and fertile land on the lower reaches of the Shinano River, there were clear reasons for the development of agricultural technology, both in terms of weather and geography. In the past, people did not understand the preciousness of something they had taken for granted for so long. Our channels for purchasing local vegetables are one of the strengths of a company with such a long history.” That is why Mr. Nojima says he wants to take this opportunity to make the taste of Niigata Prefecture agricultural products more readily available to people all over Japan.

Dressing that enhances dishes

The “Grocery Store Dressing” series can be used not only as a simple dressing for salads and other vegetables, but also for meat and fish dishes. For example, after lightly salting fried meatballs and colorful vegetables such as bell peppers, use “strawberry” as a flavor enhancer to bring out the sweetness of the meat. Also, simply sprinkle “Uonuma Wasabi” on white fish carpaccio, etc. to complete the dish. It can also be used as a sauce for sweets, such as milk pudding, and can be used in a variety of dishes. Depending on your ingenuity, your dishes will be enhanced. The flavor of the dressing can also bring out the essence of the vegetable itself. For example, the dressing for carrots under the snow removes the off-taste of the carrots and their sweetness stands out more than if the carrots were eaten as they are. Furthermore, because the original color of the ingredients is preserved, the dressing is visually vibrant.

Aiming for Further Evolution

Now, even more new efforts are underway. This is the development of products utilizing “flash freezing” technology. By flash freezing at -30°C, the cells are not destroyed and the deliciousness of the ingredients is preserved. As long as the defrosting process is carefully followed, it is possible to reproduce the taste of the product as it was before freezing. By making full use of this technology, “Yaoyahan” is striving to let people all over Japan know the deliciousness of vegetables and fruits that are familiar to Niigata residents and that they cannot usually taste, and to continue to promote the appeal of Niigata through dressings so that Niigata producers will be more energetic. We hope that you will taste the world brewed by “Gobei”.

The post Taste the deliciousness of Niigata Prefecture-grown vegetables and fruits with dressing from “Yaoya Hangobei” / Sanjo City, Niigata Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Dashi” brings “umami” and “depth” to dishes

Dashi” is an indispensable ingredient in Japanese cuisine. The history of dashi dates back to the Nara period (710-794). The presence of high-quality, delicious dashi brings umami and depth to dishes. Futaba Corporation, founded in 1953 and headquartered in Sanjo City, located in the center of Niigata Prefecture, is a comprehensive dashi manufacturer for professional chefs, supplying dashi packets for commercial use to hotels, inns, and kappo restaurants nationwide. Its distinctive feature is its extract packs, which are packed with umami. At a time when dashi packs did not yet exist, Futaba took a hint from tea and black tea packs and developed a product in which crushed dried bonito flakes are coated with bonito extract and packed in a packet as a natural seasoning. With the creation of these dashi packs, restaurants that made dashi from multiple types of ingredients, such as vegetables and dried foods, only needed to use a set number of dashi packs, thus making the taste more uniform and efficient. Futaba’s dashi is especially appreciated by large hotels and inns with a large number of customers.

Beliefs of Futaba Corporation

Because dashi is something that is used every day, Futaba is committed to quality and safety with no chemical seasonings or preservatives. The main ingredient is dried bonito, but Futaba also carefully selects and purchases all other kinds of bonito, mackerel, sardine, tuna, horse mackerel, flying fish, kelp, shiitake mushrooms, etc. Sensory tests are conducted, and only products that meet various quality standards in terms of aroma, taste, dashi color, and clarity are shipped to kitchens in various regions. Professional chefs from all over Japan trust us not only because of our blending techniques and consistent quality that always delivers the same consistent taste, but also because of our belief that we do not use any chemical seasonings or food additives.

The Science of Dashi

Cutting-edge research continues to be conducted on the umami of dashi. Futaba’s concept is “the science of dashi. In addition to sensory testing by the human sense of taste, Futaba has established a laboratory and focuses on scientific analysis using analytical instruments. Nutritional components, protein, amino acids, and other parameters are quantified using state-of-the-art equipment, and the company is constantly thinking about what constitutes delicious dashi. To begin with, there are still many things we don’t know about the ingredients that are described as “umami.

In order to reach more people

Through repeated research, new ideas are created and many new products are born. Recently, vegetable dashi, which seals in the umami of onions, carrots, cabbage, and other vegetables, has been well received. The company has established an in-house “agriculture team” and has begun growing its own vegetables. Currently, the company uses a blend of vegetables purchased from suppliers and those harvested in-house, but in the future it intends to increase the ratio of vegetables grown in-house to ensure safety and quality stability, starting with the raw materials. In addition, since the products they offer vary depending on the person to whom the dashi is used, as a comprehensive manufacturer of dashi, they have developed a wide variety of dashi products to date. For example, the daily dining table of the average household requires a well-balanced and complete umami taste. On the other hand, for chefs and professional cooks, dashi that can be designed by the chef to have a unique umami taste that makes the most of the characteristics of the ingredients is needed.

We want to expand the possibilities of dashi so that more people can cook delicious and easy-to-prepare dishes,” says Akira Eguchi, president and representative director. To this end, the company has launched “ON THE UMAMI,” a lifestyle brand for general consumers, offering a lineup of various types of dashi for home use that can be used in Japanese, Western, and Chinese cuisine. The company has begun selling products through its online store and in stores. Traditional Japanese bonito dashi and kelp dashi are popular for use not only in miso soup but also in onigiri (rice balls). Chicken dashi is also useful as a secret ingredient in egg soup and fried rice. Vegetable dashi, which can be used as a veggie broth, also demonstrates its flavor when used to elevate curry, pasta, and other dishes. There is also a wide variety of dashi for baby food, hand-drip dashi that can be drunk like coffee or soup, risotto and pasta sauce, and so on. The company proposes opportunities for people to notice and feel the delicate sensitivities and sensations in the food culture unique to the Japanese people in their daily lives.

Today, Japanese food has been registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage and umami has become known as “MAMI” in the world as a common official language. We look forward to Futaba’s future product development as it continues to expand the possibilities of dashi.

The post The science of umami makes food more delicious. The Profound World of Futaba’s Dashi / Sanjo City, Niigata Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Oita Prefecture, rich in nature, is blessed with abundant agricultural products such as Seki mackerel and Seki sardines, which benefit from the bounty of the sea, and shiitake mushrooms, a treasure of the mountains. Among these, the existence of “nori” (seaweed), which is now preserved by only a few remaining fishermen, is little known. “Tsuru Kame Foods,” which continues to produce this rare nori using traditional methods in the northern part of Oita Prefecture, where it can only be harvested there, shares their desire to pass on this tradition to future generations.

What is seaweed farming in Oita Prefecture?

Nori, an indispensable part of Japanese food culture, is often referred to as “a companion to the dinner table.”

Currently, approximately 30-40% of Japan’s domestic nori production comes from the inner sea of the Ariake Sea in Kyushu, surrounded by four prefectures including Saga Prefecture. In Oita Prefecture, which faces the Suo Nada (Suo Strait) and is considered the outer sea from the perspective of the Ariake Sea, nori cultivation is carried out in the northern region. In Oita Prefecture, seaweed farming was so prosperous during the Meiji and Showa periods that farmers were even hired from Hiroshima Prefecture. Additionally, according to the local history book “Bungo Kokshi,” seaweed has been a famous souvenir of Oita for over 200 years, and seaweed farming was once thriving with hundreds of farms and hundreds of fishermen. However, today only five farms remain in Usa City and Nakatsu City. One of the main reasons for this decline is the aging of the fishing population. Except for a few young fishermen, most are in their 70s and 80s. Considering their age, it is clear how challenging seaweed farming in Oita has become.

Preserving the original flavor through traditional methods with modern innovations

For over 70 years, Tsuru Kame Foods, headquartered in Oita City, has been engaged in the processing and sales of seaweed from Oita Prefecture. The company traces its roots back to its predecessor, “Tsuru Kame Nori,” founded by the grandfather of the current third-generation president, Koji Yukino. Since its inception, the company has remained committed to using seaweed from Oita Prefecture and has continuously refined its flavor. Since seaweed harvests are heavily dependent on natural conditions, the company once considered sourcing from other regions. However, they prioritized the principle of “producing products where the faces of the producers are visible,” and their commitment to using Oita-produced seaweed remains unwavering to this day. One of the company’s signature products is not the typical flat sheet of seaweed commonly seen, but rather “picked seaweed,” which is flaked like “aosa” seaweed.

Also known as “bara-hiki nori,” this seaweed has a fluffy appearance, but when you put it in your mouth, it has a firm texture and a rich seaweed flavor. It can be added to soups or rice dishes such as tamagokake gohan (rice with raw egg) to transform everyday dishes into something special. In restaurants in Oita City, it is also served as a condiment at eel restaurants and soba noodle shops.

“Picked Seaweed,” created to capture the true flavor of seaweed.

The inspiration for “Tsumi Nori” originated over 30 years ago. During the 1950s and 1960s, the mechanization of nori production advanced, leading to increased production and a surplus in supply. As a result, unsold nori was being incinerated. Against this backdrop, the idea emerged to not only address food waste but also to create a new form and flavor of nori that differed from traditional sheet-shaped nori. This led to the development of “Tsumi Nori.” While traditional sheet-shaped seaweed is said to have originated in the late Edo period using the techniques of Asakusa washi paper, “Picked Seaweed” draws inspiration from an older method from the mid-Edo period. This method involves harvesting fresh seaweed from the sea, drying it in the sun on rocks, and then roasting it over a brazier. “This is the perfect way to enjoy seaweed that feels both nostalgic and new,” thought Tsuru Kame Foods. After years of trial and error and product updates, it took approximately 30 years to finally achieve the desired taste. The traditional method used to make this ‘old yet new’ seaweed involves many steps that cannot be done by machine, with most of the process done by hand. Though time-consuming and labor-intensive, the flavor and texture that emerge are truly unique. Additionally, it not only allows you to enjoy the rich, authentic taste of seaweed but also provides the nutritional benefits of high-quality protein and folate, among other nutrients naturally found in seaweed.

Pursuing the ultimate seaweed, returning to the roots.

Since its founding, Tsuru Kame Foods has been committed to delivering delicious food to the table. Several years ago, the company returned to its roots and began sourcing seaweed from Matsumoto Yasuhide, a fisherman in Usa City who cultivates seaweed, in pursuit of the ultimate flavor inherent in seaweed. Even though they had been using seaweed from Usa and Nakatsu, after collecting and comparing data and taste, they noticed that the seaweed harvested by Mr. Matsumoto stood out. “Normally, diatoms attach to freshly harvested seaweed, but Mr. Matsumoto’s seaweed is carefully maintained, so there are very few diatoms. That’s why we started sourcing only the seaweed he harvests,” explains Yukino. Additionally, while Tsuru-Kame Foods had previously frozen the harvested seaweed before use, switching to using it fresh significantly improved the flavor and taste, giving them absolute confidence in the quality.

The “Oita seaweed” born from fishing passed down by young fishermen

Following in his father’s footsteps, Matsumoto became a seaweed fisherman at a young age, having grown up in a family that operated a seaweed farm. From a young age, he spent most of his time working alongside his parents in their factory. In his 20s, he worked outside the prefecture for a while, but returned home due to his parents’ poor health. Despite understanding that fishing was a tough job, he gradually came to appreciate it as a good profession and decided to dedicate his life to it. The farming method Matsumoto uses is called “pillar-style.” This method involves fishermen driving stakes into the sea and stretching seaweed nets between them, mimicking the natural growth of seaweed. By utilizing the tides, the seaweed absorbs nutrients from the water during high tide and is exposed to sunlight during low tide, making it resistant to disease and concentrating its flavor. “We must constantly manage the balance to ensure the seaweed doesn’t dry out too much or become too saturated with water,” says Matsumoto, who repeats this process daily, adjusting the height of the nets while monitoring the tides, and then travels four hours round-trip to deliver the freshly harvested seaweed to Tsuru-Kame Foods in Oita City.

Continuously moving forward, preserving Oita’s seaweed culture.

Such harsh, physically demanding work in the seaweed fishing industry is indeed a significant issue for the aging fishing community, but it is not limited to seaweed farming alone, according to Yukino. “In agriculture, fishing, and small-scale production areas, aging and succession issues are unavoidable challenges. That’s why we are committed to promoting the charm and deliciousness of Oita’s seaweed, raising its value, and hoping that this will contribute to solving these issues.” Creating high-quality products becomes an attraction that attracts successors. To transform the declining seaweed farming industry, it is essential to continue evolving and innovating.

While it is undeniable that sales declined during the COVID-19 pandemic that began in 2020, Tsuru Kame Foods turned adversity into opportunity by entering its signature product, “Tsuru Kame Nori Picking Seaweed,” into various contests. As a result, in 2022, it won the Excellence Award in the “Cooking Kingdom 100 Selection” and the Runner-Up Grand Prize in the “Eat Japan Delicious Award 2023.” The national-level awards have changed the speed at which customers accept their products. “While it is important to convey our dedication to our craft, winning these awards has significantly accelerated the pace at which customers take an interest in our products.” Though they have confidence in the taste cultivated over their long history, the awards have provided them with a tool to communicate their value to the world, thereby increasing their recognition.

“When Oita’s seaweed farming was at its peak, our history began. That’s why we feel a sense of mission to preserve this culture and continue Oita’s seaweed tradition as a company, and we want to incorporate that into our future product development,” says Yukino.

Born and raised in Oita, Tsuru Kame Foods’ seaweed, which is deeply rooted in the local flavor, is now spreading to dining tables across the country.

The post Tsuru Kame Foods: Connecting Oita’s seaweed and Japan’s seaweed culture to the future / Oita City, Oita Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Literally translated, it means “salt of life.” The sea salt “Nuchimasu” with this name is made in a factory on Miyagi Island, which is connected to the main island of Okinawa by a bridge. This nutritious salt is rich in 21 types of minerals. It has been 27 years since it was released, and it is now difficult to obtain this salt, but it is made using the same unique manufacturing method as when it was first released.

Natural salt made on a scenic hilltop

Miyagi Island is located in Uruma City, in the center of the main island of Okinawa. This small island is home to a salt factory, a shop, and a restaurant. Nuchimasu Co., Ltd., which can be found at the end of a gentle slope, has been making salt since 1997.

In Okinawan, “nuchi” means life and “masu” means salt. Nuchimasu’s representative, Takayasu Masakatsu, named it this way because he believes salt is so important that it can be said to be the source of human life. Nuchimasu is about 25% lower in salt than regular table salt, but instead contains 21 types of marine minerals. In particular, it contains 200 times more magnesium than regular salt. As soon as it goes on sale in stores and online, it sells out immediately.

Within the factory grounds, there is a cape called “Kafu Banta” that is known as a scenic spot where you can get a panoramic view of the ocean, with its beautiful shades of vivid blue, like a painting, and anyone can visit. “Kafu” means “happiness” in the Okinawan dialect, and banta means “cliff, cape.” As its name suggests, the spectacular view is so beautiful that just looking at it brings a sense of happiness in both body and mind, and it is also popular as one of the most powerful spots in the prefecture.

Takayasu has a factory close to this beautiful sea where he makes salt, but as a child, he wanted to be an inventor, influenced by the stories of great people his father told him every day. He went on to study physics at the University of the Ryukyus. While there, he studied biophysics on his own as a hobby, and said, “Because I had always studied how life was created, I immediately had an idea for how to make salt, which is essential for life. I realized that the salt I make can save humanity.”

After graduating from university, he worked as an engineer for an airline in Okinawa before starting to make salt, and then grew orchids. He developed a fine mist device that cooled the delicate orchids in greenhouses without damaging them, and used it in cultivation. The development of that device was later used in salt production.

When I saw the news about the liberalization of salt, I immediately came up with a method for making it.

In January 1997, news broke that salt was being liberalized in Japan. For about 90 years, salt had been sold by the government, but the salt monopoly system was abolished and anyone could make and sell salt freely. When Takayasu saw the news, he immediately came up with the idea of ​​the room temperature instantaneous aerial crystallization salt production method. He could picture salt falling from the sky. He shivered when he realized that thanks to his studies in college, he had discovered that this salt would save humanity. Takayasu believed that this was the salt that would save humanity, but the public did not readily understand. He sought financing from financial institutions for about a year, but received no positive response. So he had no choice but to convert an orchid-growing greenhouse on the mountain into a room temperature instantaneous aerial crystallization salt production factory.

However, he was not able to immediately create a satisfactory machine, and after disassembling and reassembling it and conducting more than 100 experiments, he was finally able to create the machine that produced the salt he had envisioned.

Salt made using a unique method: instantaneous crystallization at room temperature

Nuchimasu is made using a patented method developed by Takayasu called the room temperature instant air crystallization salt making method. Pumped seawater is filtered and sprayed into a mist, and then hot air is applied to evaporate the water, instantly crystallizing all of the marine mineral components.

By doing this, salt is made that contains the same balance of minerals as seawater, including sodium, magnesium, potassium, and calcium. By eating salt with different ingredients at the same time as a meal, the flavor is enhanced and the taste is deepened.

Nuchimasu is made only by drying the salt that has accumulated in the salt-making room. This produces a very fine, smooth salt. All salt is visually inspected, packaged, and then put through a metal detector before being put on display in the store.

Seawater is pumped up from the Pacific Ocean side of the factory. They say they chose this location after considering the effects of ocean currents, the possibility of human pollution in the future, and looking for a place without rivers. The ocean current in this area flows from south to north, and there are no islands or people to the south, so there is no possibility of future pollution. Furthermore, the seabed is bedrock, so the sea does not become muddy even during big typhoons. They found the perfect place, here on Miyagi Island.

In 2000, Nuchimasu was recognized by Guinness as the salt with the most minerals in the world, with 14 types. In 2003, even more minerals were detected, with 21 types of minerals. In 2009, the results of his research into the relationship between athletic function and minerals, as well as the preventive effects of lifestyle-related diseases, were recognized when he was awarded the Minister of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology Award for “developing an ideal sea salt manufacturing method that overturns conventional wisdom about salt.”

“It’s important to have the ocean inside your body.”

Why are minerals so important to humans in the first place? Because minerals promote digestion in the stomach and intestines, and are responsible for the absorption of nutrients into the body. Takayasu says, “Keeping a lot of minerals in your body will keep you healthy. If you make your body the same as the sea, it will regulate all of your physical condition.”

There is also a case like this. A woman who suffered from severe menstrual pain took 15 grams of Nuchimasu every day, and the pain disappeared from her next period. “Before humans were born, all living things gave birth in the sea. Therefore, it is important that the amniotic fluid that fills the woman’s uterus, where the baby is grown, has the same composition as seawater.” I agree when I hear this.

It is recommended that you take 15g of Nuchimasu every day. Potassium helps the kidneys flush excess salt into the urine. Nuchimasu also contains a lot of potassium, which helps to excrete waste and toxins, and even if you take 15g of it every day, you won’t develop high blood pressure. The salt that was previously sold as a monopoly is 99% sodium chloride, which can cause high blood pressure if taken in excess, but in the case of Nuchimasu, taking 15g a day is said to give you all the benefits of the minerals. In fact, when they tried taking 10g and 15g a day, they found that taking 15g was more effective against menstrual pain.

Long before humans were born, all life on Earth existed in the sea. Fish and other marine creatures take in seawater when they eat food. Although this is natural, people have not thought about taking something to replace the nutrients in seawater even when they start living on land. If they can take that properly, they can maintain the same physical condition as when they were living in the sea. Takayasu explains that this directly relates to health and prevents illness.

I was given tofu made simply by adding Nuchimasu to unsweetened soy milk. Normally, tofu is made by adding nigari to soy milk. Nigari is made up of magnesium, but Nuchimasu still has a lot of magnesium, so tofu can be made by simply adding a small amount of water with Nuchimasu dissolved in it to soy milk and stirring for a while. The freshly made fluffy tofu I was given had a mellow yet strong flavor, which seemed to indicate that it was packed with nutrients.

In the past few years in particular, the products they produce have been selling like hotcakes. They are currently upgrading their machinery to larger models and developing technology to make salt several times more efficient. They are also developing supplements that will make Nuchimasu easier to take while retaining its nutritional components.

Takayasu declares simply that “Nuchimasu can make people all over the world healthy.” This grandiose and passionate idea may actually be a very simple thing, a return to the origins of humanity.

It is with the sincere hope that the sea salt nurtured in the lush waters of Okinawa will protect the health of many people that pure white Nuchimasu is produced on Miyagi Island today.

The post “This salt can make people all over the world healthy,” says Nuchimasu CEO Masakatsu Takayasu. first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The Kubara Honke Group, which has a history of over 130 years, is a food manufacturer that operates multiple brands, including Kayanoya, known for Kayanoya Dashi, Kubara, which offers a wide variety of seasonings and foods, mainly flying fish dashi, and Shobouan, famous for its spicy cod roe. It has gained a strong reputation for its commitment and high quality, and is loved by many people both in Japan and overseas. We traced the trajectory of how the Kubara Honke Group, which was founded as a small soy sauce shop called Kubara Soy Sauce in Kubara Village (now Hisayama Town) on the outskirts of Fukuoka City, has grown into one of Fukuoka’s leading food manufacturers.

A legacy of gratitude to the local community

About 30 minutes from Fukuoka city, after climbing a mountain path along a clear stream, a large thatched-roof Japanese house appears. That is Onryori Kayanoya. This place, where a paradise-like world unfolds, with cherry blossoms in the spring, fireflies in early summer, and autumn leaves in the fall, is a special place that can be said to be the origin of the Kubara Honke Group.

The story of the Kubara Honke Group dates back to a soy sauce shop founded in Kubara Village in 1893. The founder, the Kawabe family, has contributed to the local community as a village headman who delivered rice and agricultural products to the Kuroda clan since the Edo period. In the Meiji period, the fourth generation and current representative, Kawabe Tetsuji’s great-grandfather, Kawabe Tosuke, became the first Kubara village mayor and worked hard to develop the village. However, this put a strain on the family’s finances, and the family fell into poverty. In the midst of this, the local people came together to help the Kawabe family rebuild. With this support, Kubara Soy Sauce was born. This was the foundation of the current “Kubara Honke Group,” and the use of the place name in the store name expresses gratitude to the villagers who helped them.

“Manufacturing that makes silent objects speak”

A turbulent history and challenges

It was Kawabe Tetsuji, the fourth-generation president, who has grown the Kubara Honke Group to the present day. However, the road was not smooth. The first generation was an academic and not suited to business, while the second generation energetically expanded sales channels, but the war cut off sales channels, and by the time Tetsuji joined the company, the company was facing tough times with six employees. At the time, Tetsuji, who spent his days driving around the neighborhood in a truck to deliver soy sauce and refilling empty bottles in household kitchens, felt a deep sense of crisis about the declining demand for soy sauce due to changes in eating habits and the advancement of nuclear families.

Soy sauce is an important ingredient that supports the taste and food culture of each region. He felt a strong sense of responsibility that the disappearance of local soy sauce should not lead to the loss of the local food culture, and that he had to continue the business for the people in the region who supported the first generation. As Kawabe searched for a solution to survive, the first thing he came up with was an OEM business that made sauces using soy sauce to be added to other companies’ products. His prediction turned out to be spot on, and sales grew steadily, earning him good reviews from clients. However, this did not lead to the name “Kuhara Soy Sauce” becoming more well known, and there was also uncertainty about subcontracting. In order to dispel the anxiety of not knowing when a competitor would take over, he pondered on his next endeavor. That’s when he decided to develop his own brand of products.

Product development based on local food culture

In developing the brand, the company set two principles. One was to “always create flavors that bring out the flavor of the ingredients,” just as the role of soy sauce is as a company with its origins as a soy sauce brewery. The other was to “disseminate local food culture.”

Although it was unorthodox for a soy sauce maker, the first product they worked on was spicy cod roe. After considering how to differentiate themselves in an industry where it was already known as a Hakata specialty and there were many manufacturers, they decided to go the high-end route. They were particular about using the highest quality Hokkaido pollock roe, and focused on how to create a flavor that was even better than the ingredients, and how to express individuality through seasoning. The brand name was “Shobouan,” and the sophisticated design of the packaging differentiated the product, which led to increased demand as a gift or Fukuoka souvenir, and they steadily gained fans. When the image of “high-quality mentaiko = Shobouan” became widespread locally, they also developed new sales channels, such as direct sales stores and mail order sales. Once Shobouan was on track and had made a name for itself, they began developing their next product. They started developing seasonings based on the know-how they had cultivated in the OEM business.

Their next brand, “Kubara,” was a lineup of products that could be easily used at home and were mainly sold at supermarkets and other mass retailers. They started by selling “Cabbage with Umatare,” a dish that could be enjoyed at home, similar to the “chunked cabbage” served as an appetizer at yakitori restaurants in Hakata, and it was an instant hit. Starting with this, they released a series of seasonings that bring out the flavor of ingredients, such as dashi soup and hot pot soup, that are rooted in the unique food culture of Kyushu and Hakata. The familiar flavors of Hakata were rediscovered locally, and at the same time, they were accepted by people all over the country.

A place that preserves Japanese food culture and traditions

As the names of their own brands, “Shobouan” and “Kubara”, gradually spread, they came up with a plan to make their products known to more people and to create a base to protect and pass on the local ingredients and food culture. The location was decided upon in Hisayama-cho, as it was a way to return to their roots and to liven up the local area that had supported them.

Kawabe-san’s mother’s family home, a sake brewery, had a thatched roof, so he had a strong desire to protect Japanese food culture as a soy sauce maker and pass on the disappearing traditions to future generations. He wanted to make the new store “a place to comprehensively convey Japanese culture”. Thus, “Oryori Kayanoya” was opened in this special place, as a stage to convey the “Kubara Honke” group’s commitment to food and hospitality. This was the birth of the “Kayanoya” brand, and it became the base for taking a big step forward as a company.

However, when they first opened, the place was hardly known even to the locals, and there was some anxiety as to whether customers would actually come to such a remote location, and whether their food would have that much appeal. However, the unexplored location piqued their interest, and many customers began to visit from far away, seeking the beautiful nature of the four seasons, the relaxing Japanese atmosphere with its thatched roof and earthen floor, and the seasonal food. “I was amazed to see such a wonderful Japanese house standing alone in such a remote place, surrounded by nature. Both the building and the food were memorable, and I would like to bring someone here again,” said Kawabe, giving it high praise. Kawabe felt that he had once again been supported by the land.

We spare no effort in the pursuit of deliciousness

Some customers feel that they have traveled far away, and so expectations naturally rise in terms of the space, the food, the hospitality, and everything else. To meet those expectations, the head chef carefully considers how to prepare dishes that will make customers feel glad that they came all the way here, and takes great care in creating seasonal courses. In particular, the dashi stock that forms the base of the dishes is made with the utmost care, from the selection of ingredients to the way it is prepared, to create the finest quality.

Among them, the signature dish from the restaurant’s opening, “Jukoku Nabe” (10-grain hotpot), has been well-received, and with an increasing number of customers asking “how do you make the dashi?”, Kawabe decided to try making dashi that could be enjoyed at home. After many trials with the head chef, Kawabe was able to create “Kayanoya Dashi” with grilled flying fish, which he carefully selected, and spent a lot of time and effort on.

“Ago” refers to flying fish, which has less fat than other fish that causes unpleasant flavors, and is characterized by a refined taste with a clean sweetness and deep umami. One theory is that it was so delicious that it was named after the fact that it is “so delicious that your jaw will fall off.” It has been popular in Kyushu for a long time, and is an essential ingredient in the local Hakata dish “Hakata Zouni.” However, because it is a high-class ingredient, it was only used at home on special occasions such as New Year’s, but with the birth of “Kayanoya Dashi,” flying fish dashi can now be enjoyed on a daily basis in dishes such as hotpots and udon. It also spread to various places in Kyushu and Fukuoka as a souvenir, and although it was not very familiar at first, its deliciousness led to more and more people buying it again and again, and it quickly gained fans. As a brand that pursues quality, many products were released one after another, and it has now grown into a major business with about 30 Kayanoya specialty shops nationwide.

As Kawabe says, Kayanoya Dashi is a symbol of the group’s goal of “making silent things speak.” When people eat something delicious, they want to tell someone about it. The product itself does not say anything, but the deliciousness that exceeds expectations naturally conveys its value.

Hakata dashi to the world

Flying fish dashi has now become so popular on dining tables all over Japan that it is said to be the third dashi after bonito flakes, kelp, and shiitake mushrooms. The next goal of the Kubara Honke Group is to spread dashi culture overseas. “If soy sauce has been accepted so well, dashi should have plenty of potential. By spreading Japanese food culture around the world, we want to revitalize Japan, which has been in a downward spiral in recent years. We want to build a business model that shows that even local soy sauce makers have a chance if they try,” says Kawabe.

With a history of over 130 years, the Kubara Honke Group has protected local food culture and continues to take on new challenges, so we look forward to seeing what the group does next.

The post “Kubara Honke Group” promotes locally rooted Japanese food culture to the world first appeared on NIHONMONO.

It is about 45 minutes from Hakata Station via subway and JR line. Itoshima City is located on a peninsula adjacent to the west side of Fukuoka City, jutting out into the Sea of Genkai, and has become a popular destination for people from the Kanto and Kansai regions since 2010 due to its easy accessibility and rich natural environment. Kobo Tottan” is a salt factory located in the northwest of the Itoshima Peninsula, right in the ‘Tottan’ area.

From zero to making salt in his 20s

After walking along a narrow road that makes one wonder if there is nothing ahead, a parking lot comes into view. After another five minutes’ walk, the salt factory “Kobo Tottan” appears. On a long, narrow site by the sea, there is a store selling salt and pudding, a workshop, and a three-dimensional salt field made of bamboo, which is crowded with people even on a weekday.

After working as an itamae (chef), he became a salt maker.

Shuichi Hirakawa is the representative of Shinzaburo Shoten, a company that makes salt at the “Kobo Tottan” and operates restaurants and stores that feature the salt as the main ingredient. He used to work as a kaiseki chef, and has honed his skills in his hometown of Fukuoka and abroad since the age of 20.

It was in his late 20s that Mr. Hirakawa began making salt in Itoshima. When he happened to visit the site, he learned that the sun was shining on the sea, one of the few places in Fukuoka that faces south, and that hijiki, wakame seaweed, and other seaweeds were growing large in the sea. He was sure he would be able to make good salt here. Hirakawa, who had felt since his days as an itamae (chef) that “food is only as good as its ingredients,” was convinced of this when he compared seawater to ingredients and salt to food. The early 2000s also coincided with the complete liberalization of salt production, importation, and distribution, which had previously been under government control.

Dare to be inefficient.

Even though the industry has been completely liberalized, pumping seawater still requires notification to the Ministry of Finance, and the use of seawater requires the consent of local fishermen. To obtain the right to use seawater, Mr. Hirakawa went door-to-door to nearby fishermen and persuaded them of his desire to produce salt.

The first thing he did was to get the land leased to him, and for the first five years, the area was a jungle, but he cleared it out while continuing to make salt. When the salt production got on track, he bought the land.

He insisted on making natural salt in a classic salt field constructed of bamboo. He visited various salt mills and found that there were other methods that could produce salt efficiently, but he dared to choose an inefficient method. This was because he wanted the world to know the appeal of natural salt, which is produced “organically” rather than “industrially.

Salt made slowly and deliberately over half a month

At “Kobo Tottan,” salt is made over a period of about half a month. First, pumped seawater is dried in the sun while it is transmitted from the top of the salt pans, which are turrets built of logs, to bamboos, and then the water is circulated for about 10 days. By doing so, the flavor components of the seawater are condensed rather than simply cooking it in a kettle on the beach.

Next, the condensed seawater is transported to a workshop, where it is slowly cooked in a pot to further increase its concentration. At the same time, impurities are removed and the water is further cooked. The first half of the cooking process uses waste tempura oil, and the second half uses firewood made from construction waste.

After three days of cooking in the kettle, salt crystals finally appear. These crystals are scooped up and left to rest overnight in cedar barrels to become “Mataichi-no-salt takishio. The salt is then roasted in an iron cauldron to remove the moisture. These two types of natural salt are representative of Kobo Tottan.

Different tastes of salt

By the way, the word “salt” can range in taste from angular to mellow. Where does the difference come from?

According to Mr. Hirakawa, it is created in the final process. When seawater is cooked in a kettle, the top layer gathers the softer salty components of minerals such as potassium and calcium, while the lower layer gathers components such as sodium and magnesium, which have a salty taste. This is why the taste differs depending on where the water is extracted.

At Kobo Tottan, the difference is exploited by sifting and separating the salt from the upper and lower layers, and then blending them back together again to produce the product. For example, the popular “Omusubi Salt” is a product blended to enhance the taste of omusubi from the first bite to the last.

Incidentally, the same salt made from the same sea does not always taste the same. For example, from spring to summer, the amount of seaweed increases and the taste of salt becomes more complex. Conversely, in the winter, refined, flat-tasting salt is produced. Knowing that there are variations depending on the season, you will be able to enjoy the taste of salt even more.

The savior is pudding.

Today, Mataichi-no-salt is well received both inside and outside Fukuoka Prefecture, but in the early days, sales did not increase, and the company experienced “a series of hardships. Compared to mass-produced salt, the price was several times higher. It took a lot of tricks to get people to buy it.

One of the tricks was to offer visitors a tour of the salt-making process at the saltworks. The tour also allowed visitors to see the sea and the salt production process in front of them, and to try the salt crystals drawn from the pot, which led to purchases. In addition, the company developed and produced “salt pudding to eat (hana-salt pudding). This led to the success of “Mataichi-no-Salt”.

The ingredients are eggs from Fukuoka Prefecture, milk and cream from Saga Prefecture. The pudding is soft, and when eaten with a sprinkling of salt, the flavor and texture can be enjoyed in different shades. In addition to plain, caramel, and coffee flavors, the pudding is also available for a limited time only and is sold by mail order. Since the pudding became a hit, Shinzaburo Shoten has opened a series of salt stores in Itoshima City, including a rice-ball store and a salt ramen store, and the business has begun to circulate with salt production as its starting point.

Protecting the Changing Ocean

For Mr. Hirakawa, who continues to pump seawater from the sea right in front of his eyes to produce natural salt, the primary issue now is the preservation of the sea.

The Mataichi no Salt is located within the Genkai National Park, and although there are various inconveniences, nature is protected to a certain extent. There is little pollution from extreme environmental changes or domestic wastewater.

Even so, the ocean’s condition is changing by the minute. For example, due to global warming, striped horse mackerel, which is actively cultivated in the southern seas of Amami and Kagoshima, has recently started to be caught in the waters around Itoshima. Wakame seaweed, for example, was harvested nearly two months 30 years ago, but 10 years ago it was harvested in less than one month, and recently it has been harvested in two weeks.

Rising sea water temperatures also cause rocky shore scorching, which significantly reduces the number of seaweed species. Rising sea water temperatures increase the longevity of sea urchins, which eat more seaweed than necessary, changing the environmental cycle in the sea. Mr. Hirakawa, in an effort to “do something about it,” is working to reduce carbon dioxide emissions by replacing the fuel used to cook sea urchins in kettles with recycled fuel, and is also working on a project to cure sea urchins so that consumers can enjoy them at restaurants and other places.

In addition, in collaboration with Kyushu University, which also has a campus on the Itoshima Peninsula, the company is working to reduce the stress on the sea by using solar panels to concentrate seawater and by trying salt production using free energy.

We want people to feel comfortable eating salt.

Protecting the beautiful sea and making delicious salt. What kind of thoughts and feelings lie at the root of Mr. Hirakawa’s passion?

The reason I started cooking is to make people happy. The reason I started cooking is to make people happy, and the best time to make people happy is when I can serve them delicious food. Even if they are unhappy, they feel a little better when they encounter delicious food. I would like to help people do that. I think that is what I am doing now by making salt.

The “Mataichi” in “Mataichi no Salt” is the name of Mr. Hirakawa’s father. My father taught me how to judge what is good and what is not,” he says. The company’s name, Shinzaburo, was named after his grandfather, who gave birth to his father.

I started salt production when I was in my late 20s, and after experiencing salt damage, typhoons, fires, and other hardships, I have had a lot of joy, and I would like to continue taking on various challenges, but I think it is time for me to think about passing the baton to the next generation. I would be happy if I could find the right answer while gradually giving back to this land that raised me.

In three years, he plans to separate manufacturing and sales, and there are also plans to build a new place at this location where people can learn about the process of making salt from seawater. When we are finished, we will look for the next exciting thing to do,” says Hirakawa. In his warm gaze, we see the future of Itoshima, with its beautiful sparkling blue sea and smiling people, just as it is today.

The post The sea of Itoshima is preserved in salt. Mr. Shuichi Hirakawa, Shinzaburo Shoten first appeared on NIHONMONO.