Lake Biwa is the largest lake in Japan. The people of Shiga Prefecture, where Lake Biwa is located, have a unique food culture that has been passed down through the generations by people who have lived alongside the water. Just as the mountain trout and char caught in the rivers are called “river fish”, the fish caught in Lake Biwa are called “lake fish” in Shiga Prefecture. The most representative of these lake fish is the ayu, which boasts the largest catch of any lake fish. What’s more, it is said that this is a special ayu that can only be caught here.

A special “koayu” that lives only in Lake Biwa, a treasure of Shiga Prefecture

Ayu (sweetfish) is a freshwater fish that has been loved in Japan since ancient times. Its refreshing aroma, delicate flavor and slightly bitter taste are loved by the Japanese, and even the famous gourmet Kitaoji Rosanjin said that the best way to eat ayu is “to grill it without removing the entrails, and then to dip it in a mixture of salt and watercress vinegar that is so hot it will burn you. The freshly caught ayu has a scent similar to that of watermelon or cucumber in early summer, so it is called “the scented fish”, and it is also called “the queen of clear streams” because it likes clear, clean streams.

In Japan, ayu are generally born in rivers, grow up in the sea, and then return to the rivers, but the ayu of Lake Biwa are a little different. They are called “koayu” (small ayu), and are unique to Lake Biwa. After being born in rivers, they go down to Lake Biwa and live there. While ayu generally grow to around 20 cm, the largest koayu adults are only about 10 cm. They stop growing at around the same size as young ayu. You would think that they would grow bigger as they live in the vast Lake Biwa, but the fact that they don’t is due to the environment of Lake Biwa, where there is a lack of algae that ayu feed on. The ayu of Lake Biwa are the only ayu in the world that live in this special habitat.

Strong, delicate flavor

The ayu season is from May to early August. During this time, local supermarkets will be selling ayu from Lake Biwa, and the aroma of soy sauce cooking tsukudani will be wafting through the air around the lake. The way ayu is cooked varies from region to region, household to household, and even from processor to processor, and it has been passed down as a food culture that is deeply rooted in the local area and unique to Shiga Prefecture.

Ayu is characterized by its fine, smooth scales and soft skin and bones, which means that it can be eaten whole. Although they are about the same size as young ayu, they are fully grown fish, so they have a stronger flavor than young ayu, but without any strong taste. They also have a slightly bitter taste that is unique to ayu, and they are widely loved by people of all ages in Shiga Prefecture, from children to adults, as a kind of soul food, in dishes such as the local dish of Shiga Prefecture, tsukudani, as well as tempura, marinated dishes, and nanban-zuke.

Could the ayu from all over the country have their roots in Lake Biwa?

The small ayu from Lake Biwa were thought to be different from the ayu from rivers because they did not grow large even when they grew up. However, when they were released into the Tama River in Tokyo in 1913, it was discovered that they grew large in the same way as ayu from rivers. Since then, ayu from Lake Biwa have been shipped all over the country for release into rivers and for aquaculture. There may be quite a few ayu seen in rivers all over the country that have their roots in Lake Biwa.

There is a saying that symbolizes the Omi Merchants who were active based in Shiga Prefecture: “Ayu from Lake Biwa grow bigger when they go out into the world.” This is said to mean that just as ayu grow bigger in rivers after being released into rivers all over the country after leaving Lake Biwa, people from Shiga also grow by going out into the world.

Ayu no mise Kimura” sells lake fish dishes that are particular about the ingredients.

There is a shop in Hikone City, Shiga Prefecture, that processes and sells ayu from Lake Biwa in a variety of foods. “Ayu no mise Kimura” is a specialty shop for ayu that was established in 1970. In 1953, before the shop was established, it pioneered ayu farming nationwide, and it continues to pursue the production of high-quality ayu that is not inferior to natural ayu.

The company produces and sells lake fish dishes made with fresh ingredients, such as the “jewel of Lake Biwa” Biwa trout and funazushi (fermented crucian carp), a specialty of Shiga Prefecture, as well as ayu fish raised in their own aquaculture and small ayu caught in Lake Biwa.

Aquaculture methods that bring out the full flavor of ayu

“Sometimes even the locals are surprised to learn that there is a large fish farm in the middle of the city. There are about 40 ponds at the fish farm, and there are currently about 15 tons of small ayu in total, but we will raise them to a larger size and eventually they will reach 20 to 30 tons,” says Mr. Masahiro Kimura, the fourth generation of the company. Indeed, it is quite an unusual sight to see such a large fish farm behind a store in the middle of a city with shops and houses lining the streets. Perhaps this is a sight that can only be seen here.

Ayu are cultivated using mineral-rich spring water pumped up from 300 meters underground, and are raised slowly over a period of 5 to 6 months in relatively cool water. Also, because ayu are sensitive to changes in their environment and easily stressed, in order to raise them in an environment as close to nature as possible, a waterwheel is used to recreate the fast-flowing water of a river upstream. By making them swim vigorously, they are said to develop a firm, elegant, and light taste. In order to create a place where ayu can play, the pond is made into an octagonal shape. “Ayu die quickly when there is not enough oxygen, so we circulate the water to ensure that there is plenty of oxygen in the water, and we raise them in an environment as close to nature as possible,” says Mr. Kimura. This is the kind of thorough attention to detail that you would expect from a long-established company that started out as a fish farm.

Caring for the resources of Lake Biwa

In general, wild ayu eat algae that grows naturally on the riverbed, so they have a rich aroma, while farmed ayu are said to contain a lot of fat. However, the ayu farmed at this company are very aromatic and have a firm texture. “To raise good ayu, the feed and water are important. We feed them our original feed, which is made from fishmeal with little fishy smell, and also includes algae and propolis. The ayu we raise have a flavor that rivals that of wild fish, and they are very popular with customers at restaurants all over the country. We even ship them alive to Toyosu in Tokyo,” says Mr. Kimura.

For the aquaculture, they always use natural fry caught in Lake Biwa. In other prefectures, there are producers who farm artificially hatched ayu, but in Shiga Prefecture, it is customary to farm ayu by bringing in live fry from Lake Biwa. For this reason, they do not artificially hatch eggs. This is truly a job that makes the most of the wonderful resources that can be found here.

Incidentally, this benefit also affects the taste itself. It is said that ayu from Lake Biwa have finer, smoother scales, softer bones and skin, and a better texture than artificially hatched ayu. The natural ayu are carefully raised in a safer environment. It is this commitment to quality that has made Mr. Kimura’s ayu so popular.

Enjoy the natural bounty that can only be found here with “small ayu simmered in soy sauce

Ayu no mise Kimura’s “small ayu simmered in soy sauce” is a dish made by expert chefs who spend several hours simmering small ayu caught from Lake Biwa in the morning in small kettles, so that they remain fresh. As they are cooked in small batches with care, they do not fall apart, and they are finished with a sweet and mild flavor using locally produced soy sauce and sake.

Ayu fish tsukudani is a traditional local dish from Shiga Prefecture. The ayu fish, which has no strong flavor but is very tasty, is cooked until it is tender, even down to the bones, so it can be enjoyed as a side dish with rice or as a snack. It is a popular signature product, not only with regular local customers but also with tourists as a souvenir.

Ayu fish grilled with salt” lets you enjoy the rich aroma in its entirety.

Kimura-san recommends “grilled ayu with salt” as “the best way to eat it”. Among lake fish, people like to eat biwa trout and carp sashimi, but many people say that grilled ayu is the best way to eat it.

At Ayu no mise Kimura, they quickly chill the ayu they have just taken out of the tank with ice, and then grill it on a skewer while it is still fresh. By slowly roasting the fish with the mouth facing down, the excess fat is said to remain inside the ayu, and the fish is finished with a delicious aroma right down to the core. In addition to being able to enjoy the aroma and flavor of the ayu itself, the skin is crisp and fragrant, and the flesh is light and fluffy and soft. This is a dish that we also recommend to those who don’t like river fish.

We want to convey the appeal of ayu caught in Lake Biwa.

In recent years, small ayu have become particularly popular. “In the past, it was normal to send ayu that had been grown in fish farms and then packed in ice to the market, but recently, people have come to prefer the smaller ayu. Compared to the larger ayu, the bitterness of the liver is weaker and it is softer, so you can eat the whole fish, including the bones, and still enjoy the distinctive ayu flavor. The characteristics of the smaller ayu go well with tempura and fried dishes, and there is an increasing number of inquiries from restaurants in the Tokyo area and elsewhere about this easy-to-enjoy summer delicacy,” says Mr. Kimura.

While the ayu that grow to a large size reach their peak season, the ayu from Lake Biwa have a special value in that you can enjoy their seasonal flavor while they are still small. “I want to continue to propose new ways of eating and cooking while also preserving the traditional food culture”. Mr. Kimura’s thoughts like this will open up new possibilities for the ayu from Lake Biwa and give them the power to swim further afield.

The post A summer tradition of Lake Biwa: Ayu no mise Kimura, a restaurant that conveys the deliciousness of Shiga’s ayu/Hikone City, Shiga Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Kishimen, one of Nagoya’s gourmet foods, is a noodle characterized by its wide width. It is thinner than udon but has a firm texture and a smooth texture. However, it has been less exposed than other major noodles such as udon, soba, and ramen, which has resulted in a noticeable decrease in the number of young people eating kishimen. Recently, however, a new trend in the kishimen industry has begun to emerge, thanks to the efforts of Takahiro Horie, who runs a handmade udon store in Nagoya.

Kishimen, Aichi Prefecture’s local delicacy

Kishimen” is known as Nagoya meshi (Nagoya food). In fact, it is not limited to Nagoya City, but is eaten throughout Aichi Prefecture. It is said to have its roots in “string noodles,” a specialty of Kariya City, Aichi Prefecture, and it is believed that Kishimen is a good match for Aichi Prefecture, where many people like their noodles well seasoned and the sauce easily soaks into the noodles.

Its characteristic feature is its flat noodles. The noodles are thinner than udon noodles, but have a firm texture and a smooth texture, and the sauce that soaks through the noodles is very appealing.

What is the difference between kishimen, udon, and stewed noodles?

In addition to kishimen, there are other types of noodles that are representative of Nagoya-meshi, such as miso nikomi udon and Nagoya udon. Although they all seem to be the same type of udon, the ingredients and proportions of the noodles used in each dish vary according to the cooking method and purpose, and the textures vary accordingly.

Kishimen is the most time-consuming type of noodle to make. Kishimen requires more than twice as much time as the process of ordinary udon noodles because the dough is stretched thin to make the noodles wide, which is one of the main characteristics of kishimen. In addition, the amount of dough that can be made at one time is limited because the dough spreads out and occupies the noodle-making table. If 10 servings of udon can be made in the same amount of time and under the same conditions, only 5 servings of kishimen can be made. Although it is a Nagoya specialty, the inefficiency has led an increasing number of restaurants to stop serving kishimen and switch to udon only.

From a noodle diner opened by the previous generation, the three mainstays of the restaurant are udon, kishimen, and stewed noodles.

Mr. Horie, who runs “Teuchi Udon Takasago” in Nagoya City, inherited the noodle restaurant founded by his father in 1958. A noodle diner is a general term for a diner in town that serves not only udon but also Chinese soba noodles and set meals. After his father passed away, Mr. Horie took over the restaurant and has since been running it with a focus on handmade udon, kishimen (flat noodles), and nikomi udon as the three mainstays of the menu.

After training in Tokyo, he learned the techniques by watching and imitating.

Before he started making udon in Takasago, he trained at a soba restaurant in Tokyo. Two years later, he returned to his father’s store, where he stole the skills of his brothers and sisters while watching them make udon noodles.

He aims to make noodles that are gentle but have a core, with a bit of a bite at the end. I learned the technique not only by thinking about it in my head, but also by actually doing it, and finally I was able to consistently produce the ideal noodles,” said Horie.

The handmade noodles made with this unique technique have received high praise, and the restaurant is now so famous that it is listed in the Michelin Guide.

Udon noodles in Nagoya have a high density of salt water. Reason for leaving them overnight before stretching.

Udon and kishimen are both made from wheat flour and salted water. Their production processes are almost the same, differing only in the thickness of the dough to be stretched at the beating stage. However, the salt water used to make udon in Nagoya is more concentrated than that used to make noodles in Kagawa Prefecture, which is famous as an udon prefecture.

Although it is difficult to generalize because it depends on the season and weather conditions, Nagoya uses salt water with a density of 18 to 20%, compared to 10% in other areas. The higher the concentration, the tighter the dough. Since Nagoya is a region with high temperatures, the higher salt concentration is probably used to make the dough firmer to prevent the noodles from sloughing off in the heat,” says Horie.

In addition, Nagoya’s udon noodles are made using a method known as “Nagoya-uchi. The major difference between Nagoya udon and udon from other regions is that the dough is left to rest overnight, and a process known as “navel-dashi (hon-maruke)” is used to shape the dough into a round shape by pressing the dough into a ball with fingers. The process of letting the dough rest overnight promotes the formation of gluten, making it sticky and elastic, while the process of heso-dashi removes air from the dough, making it hard to break and giving it a strong firmness. These steps are what make Nagoya udon unique.

Talking with the dough while making noodles

Mr. Horie makes udon and yakishimen noodles every day, but the process is not the same. He says, “I make the noodles while talking to the dough, like, ‘It’s soft today because of the high humidity. We call forming the dough ‘forging,’ but we don’t forge it unnecessarily, but rather let the dough rest and avoid overworking it,” says Horie. The dough is made to look its best on any given day by making fine adjustments, such as adding more salt during the summer months when the dough tends to be less firm, or reducing the amount of water used on rainy days.

Promoting Kishimen to the younger generation and making it an everyday food option

Kishimen is the soul food of the people of Aichi Prefecture, but it is actually in danger of decline. As mentioned above, Kishimen requires more time and effort to prepare than other types of noodles. In addition, miso nikomi udon, which is stewed over a long period of time, requires less preparation on the part of the restaurant and is more popular with tourists. Even for the locals, there are not many opportunities to eat kishimen, and even in Takasago, until about three years ago, only two or three servings of kishimen were served per week.

However, Mr. Horie, who wanted to preserve the kishimen culture, decided to convey the deliciousness of kishimen to the younger generation at his casual restaurant. He decided to open “Hoshigaoka Noodle Factory” in 2021, a restaurant where people can casually drop by, by introducing machine-made noodles and freezing technology.

Hoshigaoka Terrace, where “Hoshigaoka Noodle Factory” is located, is lined with apparel stores and cafes, and is a place where many young people come and go. The location and production method of the store may seem opposite to that of Takasago, which insists on handmade noodles, but Mr. Horie explains the true reason for this. The cost of preparing noodles by hand is high, and mass production is not possible. But I wanted young people to enjoy shishimen in the same way they enjoy curry or ramen. I thought that machine-made noodles, which incorporate hand-made techniques, would be comparable in taste and be easily enjoyed.

In the year since Hoshigaoka Noodle Factory opened, approximately 100,000 servings of Kishimen have been ordered. Moreover, customers who discovered the deliciousness of Kishimen began to visit Takasago as well. The customer base has also changed, with groups of high school girls coming to the store, mothers’ friends coming for lunch, and children coming to the store before going to cram school.

From the Tokai area to the rest of the country and overseas

The success of Hoshigaoka Ramen Noodle House has brought joy from other companies in the same industry. The success of Hoshigaoka Seimenjo has brought more young people to visit the traditional udon store, saying, “I want to try the kishimen from other stores. However, in order to ensure that this is not a temporary boom, Mr. Horie is continuing to vigorously promote kishimen, including the development of franchises.

Currently, Hoshigaoka Seimenjo has outlets in Aichi and Osaka prefectures, but eventually we would like to expand the culture of kishimen from Hokkaido to Okinawa. In the future, I would like to increase the number of kishimen fans overseas,” says Horie. Someday, Kishimen will become the standard noodle food in Japan like udon, soba, and ramen, and spread throughout the world. Imagining such a future, the udon store that started out as a one-stop store in Nagoya continues to introduce the appeal of kishimen from a new angle in an effort to uncover a wide range of needs.

The post Supporting the dying Kishimen culture with a new type of business. Takahiro Horie of Teuchi Udon Takasago / Nagoya City, Aichi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The history of Inaniwa Udon

Located in the Inaniwa district of Yuzawa City in southern Akita Prefecture, Inaniwa udon originated over 350 years ago when Sato Kiszaemon (later known as Inaniwa Kiszaemon) began producing dried udon noodles in this area, surrounded by the pristine flow of rivers and lush forests of the beautiful Satoyama countryside. It became the official supplier to the Satake clan, the lords of the Akita domain, and has been passed down through generations as a closely guarded secret. Currently, the 16th generation Inaniwa Kiszaemon focuses on preserving tradition by limiting production to a small portion for distribution, ensuring the continuity of the family heritage. Concerned about the potential loss of this tradition due to its secretive nature, the technique of making Inaniwa udon was specially passed down to the second generation Sato Yosuke (now Sato Yosuke Shoten) at the end of the Edo period.

Located in the Inaniwa district of Yuzawa City in southern Akita Prefecture, Inaniwa udon originated over 350 years ago when Sato Kiszaemon (later known as Inaniwa Kiszaemon) began producing dried udon noodles in this area, surrounded by the pristine flow of rivers and lush forests of the beautiful Satoyama countryside. It became the official supplier to the Satake clan, the lords of the Akita domain, and has been passed down through generations as a closely guarded secret. Currently, the 16th generation Inaniwa Kiszaemon focuses on preserving tradition by limiting production to a small portion for distribution, ensuring the continuity of the family heritage. Concerned about the potential loss of this tradition due to its secretive nature, the technique of making Inaniwa udon was specially passed down to the second generation Sato Yosuke (now Sato Yosuke Shoten) at the end of the Edo period.

The secret of the delicious taste of udon noodles made by Sato Yoetsu Honpo

To make Inaniwa udon, you start by mixing plenty of saltwater with wheat flour, kneading and fermenting the dough repeatedly to create the base. Then, you cut it into strips about 3 cm wide and roll them into small logs. The process on the second day, called ‘hand-twisting,’ is what I consider the most important step,” says Sato. Using two hanging rods, the dough is quickly and rhythmically stretched into an “eight” shape while twisting the udon. This hand-twisting process, which involves almost half of the personnel in the entire process of making Inaniwa udon, is crucial. Due to the softness of the dough, which is softened by adding plenty of water, handwork is necessary to twist it. Sato describes Inaniwa udon as similar to fermented foods because it undergoes fermentation at various stages of the process. Indeed, during the dough stage, it is left to ferment for a long time, emitting a sweet aroma reminiscent of bread. The finished noodles, though slightly thinner than typical udon, have a flat cross-section, characteristic of Inaniwa udon. Despite their appearance, they have a remarkably firm texture and chewiness. Adjustments to the moisture and salt content are made based on the day’s humidity and temperature, and the noodles are aged for 3 to 4 days to develop their unique texture and smooth mouthfeel.

At Sato Yoetsu Honke, only domestically harvested wheat, harvested within a year, is used as the raw material for udon. Additionally, all other ingredients such as salt and starch are also domestically sourced. Both the ingredients and the manufacturing process are purely domestic, and this is the essence of Sato’s dedication. It is an indispensable commitment for the udon produced by Sato Yoetsu.

Applying the techniques used to make Inaniwa udon, Sato-san ventured into creating “Inaniwa Chuka” (Chinese-style noodles). Being a ramen enthusiast, he wondered if he could adapt the udon-making techniques to produce Chinese-style noodles. Initially, he experimented with fresh noodles, but during that time, he received advice from a renowned ramen shop owner in Tokyo to utilize the Inaniwa udon technique to make dried noodles instead. Thus, “Inaniwa Chuka” was born. While ramen shops typically use fresh noodles, Sato’s Inaniwa Chuka features straight, dried noodles that are sun-dried for a full two days, retaining the same texture and quality as Inaniwa udon.

Nowadays, the popularity of Inaniwa Chuka is such that specialized ramen shops in Akita City use these noodles. Sato-san envisions opening an eatery in the Inaniwa district that not only offers udon but also ramen, pasta, soba, and other noodle dishes made using the techniques of Inaniwa udon. It’s exciting to see the new noodle products from Sato Yoetsu Honke, born from traditional techniques, continue to evolve in the future.

The post Sato Yoetsu Honpo, a popular Inaniwa Udon noodle and Inaniwa Chinese noodle manufacturer. first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Yamadaya spreads the deliciousness of fugu across the country

Located in Usuki in Oita prefecture, Yamadaya, the well renowned “fugu (puffer fish)” restaurant, was established in 1905. The area where the restaurant first opened was called “Uotanna” and served the many fishermen who worked nearby. Specializing in udon noodles and inari sushi early in its history, it expanded to other Japanese cuisine, moving to its current location in the early Showa era. Under the third generation owner, there are now 2 locations in Tokyo and the store in Nishi Azabu has earned 3 Michelin stars 9 years in a row. 

Shimonoseki is most popular for fugu, and while it’s true that Usuki does not have a very long history associated with fugu, it was enjoyed as a special treat for celebrations. The fugu in this area has a distinct firmness and concentrated flavor due to the strong current. Most of the fugu from this area was shipped out to Tokyo and Shimonoseki, leaving little for locals to enjoy. In the 1960’s, Yamadaya began serving fugu to the locals, so they could enjoy the local delicacy. Since it already had a great reputation in other parts of the nation, people flocked to enjoy the fugu at the source.

Taste fresh fugu

At Yamadaya, fugu is served on the same day it is caught. Most restaurants allow it to settle overnight, because it is easier to slice thinly. Fresh fugu is difficult to slice, so each piece tends to be a bit thicker, bringing out the full flavor of the fugu. This ended up being an advantage, leading the third generation proprietress to comment “visitors can enjoy the freshest fugu in Usuki”. “

The building blends in well with the traditional structures in this town. There are 6 private rooms with the largest room accommodating up to 100 people. There are tables set up along the windows with a view of the garden, and guests are escorted there for dessert. “It is our mission to always extend the very best for our guests, just as our ancestors taught us.” True to her word, there is true hospitality in every aspect of their service. We recommend you reserve a seat at Yamadaya to enjoy the very best fugu if you are ever in Usuki.

The post Renowned “fugu” restaurant from 1905 – Yamadaya first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Commitment of Handmade soba, Fukusuke

Tonami in Toyama has a scattering of homes surrounded by trees. The scenic town resembles traditional farms and bring a touch of nostalgy. The modern Japanese style building that houses Fukusuke, the traditional handmade stone ground soba restaurant, fits in well with its surroundings.
The refurbished traditional Japanese home offers a warm comfortable setting with its high ceilings. Visitors enjoy a moment of tranquility observing the traditional craftwork and Japanese garden.

“What makes Fukusuke special is that our soba is made from seeds that are local to Toyama and we use superior quality well water and natural ingredients for the broth.”

Using soba flour that is freshly ground the day before, the soba is prepared according to the season and the characteristic of the soba grains. Special attention to the details is what results in the delicious soba filled with the owner’s dedication and commitment.

Flavor of Soba changes depending on how it is ground

　There are two styles of soba available, thinly cut cold style and wholegrain traditional style. The thinly cut soba has a texture and aroma that goes down smoothly. The broth for the cold and hot styles are prepared separately, and are a perfect match. The gentle sweetness spreads throughout your mouth with each bite.
The wholegrain soba is ground with the skin, in the traditional method, leaving just the right texture and pleasant scent. It is delicious with the broth, but a sprinkle of salt is also enjoyable.

While there are many varieties, the most popular in the summer is the cold soba with citrus and “junsai”. The cold soba features slices of “sudachi” citrus and the cool “junsai” is a favorite among the locals who look forward to it each year. We highly recommend this refreshing dish that is visually pleasing and delicious.

“tamagoyaki” in Soba restaurant

　Fukusuke is popular not only for its soba, but the other Japanese dishes prepared by Mr. Nishimura. The traditional style “tamagoyaki” uses top quality broth and premium eggs from a local brand chicken and is served steaming hot. The soba tea pudding has a sophisticated appeal with a sprinkling of gold foil and is quite smooth.

“I try to use local ingredients as much as possible and incorporate only the very best ingredients from around the country in hopes of elevating traditional soba and Japanese cuisine.”
Each dish is symbolic of the passion and warmth that Mr. Nishimura has. We highly recommend a visit when in Toyama.

Tonami in Toyama has a scattering of homes surrounded by trees. The scenic town resembles traditional farms and bring a touch of nostalgy. The modern Japanese style building that houses Fukusuke, the traditional handmade stone ground soba restaurant, fits in well with its surroundings. The refurbished traditional Japanese home offers a warm comfortable setting with its high ceilings. Visitors enjoy a moment of tranquility observing the traditional craftwork and Japanese garden. “What makes Fukusuke special is that our soba is made from seeds that are local to Toyama and we use superior quality well water and natural ingredients for the broth.” Using soba flour that is freshly ground the day before, the soba is prepared according to the season and the characteristic of the soba grains. Special attention to the details is what results in the delicious soba filled with the owner’s dedication and commitment.

There are two styles of soba available, thinly cut cold style and wholegrain traditional style. The thinly cut soba has a texture and aroma that goes down smoothly. The broth for the cold and hot styles are prepared separately, and are a perfect match. The gentle sweetness spreads throughout your mouth with each bite. The wholegrain soba is ground with the skin, in the traditional method, leaving just the right texture and pleasant scent. It is delicious with the broth, but a sprinkle of salt is also enjoyable. While there are many varieties, the most popular in the summer is the cold soba with citrus and “junsai”. The cold soba features slices of “sudachi” citrus and the cool “junsai” is a favorite among the locals who look forward to it each year. We highly recommend this refreshing dish that is visually pleasing and delicious.

Fukusuke is popular not only for its soba, but the other Japanese dishes prepared by Mr. Nishimura. The traditional style “tamagoyaki” uses top quality broth and premium eggs from a local brand chicken and is served steaming hot. The soba tea pudding has a sophisticated appeal with a sprinkling of gold foil and is quite smooth. “I try to use local ingredients as much as possible and incorporate only the very best ingredients from around the country in hopes of elevating traditional soba and Japanese cuisine.” Each dish is symbolic of the passion and warmth that Mr. Nishimura has. We highly recommend a visit when in Toyama.

The post Delicious dishes reflecting the owner’s passion – Handmade soba, Fukusuke first appeared on NIHONMONO.

In “Manyoshu,” Japan’s oldest known anthology of waka poems composed about 1,200 years ago, Otomo no Yakamochi laughed at the summer weight loss of the same official and recommended that he eat eels. One theory suggests that eels were already being eaten as early as the Jomon period (710-794), and eels have been known as a tonic fish in Japan since ancient times. In the Edo period (1603-1867), it is said that “kabayaki,” a style of cooking in which the eel meat is opened, gutted and boned, skewered, and grilled in a savory sauce made of soy sauce and mirin (sweet sake), became widespread. Like tempura, nigiri-zushi, and soba (buckwheat noodles), which were perfected around the same time, today’s kabayaki continues to be loved almost as much as it was then.

Seki City in Gifu Prefecture, where many sword smiths moved to during the Kamakura period (1185-1333) and the cutlery industry developed. In Seki City, Gifu Prefecture, where many sword smiths moved to during the Kamakura period (1185-1333) and the blade industry developed, eels were valued as a source of stamina for sword smiths who worked in hot workshops all day long, merchants often used eels for business meetings, the clear Nagara River running through the city was a good growing environment for eels, which are born at sea and raised on the river, and cormorant fishermen also loved eels as a dish to invigorate their spirits. The combination of these factors and many others led to the development of many eel restaurants along with the local industry, and even today, more than 20 eel restaurants are concentrated in a small area, which is popular not only among local residents but also among tourists.

The oldest of these restaurants is Tsujiya, located in a corner of the Honmachi shopping street, which stretches approximately 800 meters east to west in the center of Seki City and retains its old-fashioned townscape. Tsujiya was founded in the Edo period (1603-1867). The founder’s love of river fishing led him to open a restaurant to introduce people to the deliciousness of river fish.

Around the restaurant, the smoke from the broiling eels and the aroma of burnt sauce wafting in the air whet the appetite. After passing through the brick door, customers of all ages sit at the sunken kotatsu in the long tatami room in the back of the restaurant and wait for their food. The famous proprietress, dressed in a beautiful Japanese kimono, welcomes the customers who come in endlessly, and in the back of the restaurant, artisans skewer and grill eels with expert skill. This scene, unchanged since the establishment of the restaurant, is the reason why it is a long-established business.

The specialty is “unadon (bowl of eel rice topped with rice topped with a bowl of eel). The grilled surface is fragrant and crispy. The inside of the bowl is filled with a good amount of fat. Combined with the secret sauce, it is a perfect match for the hard-cooked rice. The basic style is not the Kanto style, in which the eel is opened from the back, skewered, steamed, and grilled, but the Kansai style, in which the eel is opened from the belly, skewered, and grilled as it is. However, in order to ensure that the cross section is crispy, the eel is cut into pieces before skewering. The eel is dipped into the secret sauce, which has been used for generations, and then placed on a grill with binchotan charcoal and returned to the skewer at just the right moment. The fat from the eel falls onto the charcoal and is smoked, and the smoke that rises from the charcoal leaves a rich aroma on the surface of the eel. The flavor is so good that the eel is often served with white rice, leaving only the rice.

The taste is so well known that it is listed as a “Michelin plate” in the “Michelin Guide Aichi, Gifu, and Mie 2019 Special Edition”. It is a must-try dish for those who want to visit Seki. The restaurant’s philosophy is “3 years of skewering, 8 years of tearing, and a lifetime of grilling. The taste loved by many masters is here.

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Vinegar Juu, the Beginning of a New History

Located in the eastern part of Nagano Prefecture, Komoro City is a historical town where Hidehisa Sengoku, who became widely known for his manga works, served as the first lord of the domain, and novelist Toson Shimazaki spent half of his life. In 1872, a miso brewery called “Suju” was established as a branch of the Koyama family, which was a wealthy merchant in this town and had received an order from the Komoro domain since the Edo period (1603-1868). For more than 200 years since then, the company, along with its main family, Suju, has worked hard to develop the local brewing culture, but as Western food began to spread in Japan, the demand for miso stagnated. However, as Western food began to spread in Japan, the demand for miso declined, and various circumstances led Vineju to close its brewing business in the middle of the Showa period (1926-1989). About half a century later, in 2004, Masashi Koyama, a direct descendant of the Koyama family, took the name of the first generation head of the family, Masayuki Shigeemon, and revived the company under the name of ” Vinegar Masayuki Shoten ” to mark a new chapter in Vinegar’s history.

When he was a high school student, Mr. Koyama studied in Canada as an ice hockey player, and when he saw that the appeal of Japanese food was not well communicated in his study abroad program, he wondered how he could best communicate the appeal of Japanese food, which he usually found “delicious. I have been thinking about how I can best convey the appeal of Japanese food, which I usually find “delicious,” in the best possible way. In 2000, he launched FONZ Inc. to realize the ideas he had been accumulating since then. Focusing on the world of soba, a representative of Japanese food culture, he launched “Kawakamian,” a modern expression of “soba-ya-shu,” a chic culture of the Edo period where people enjoyed sake and snacks and finished with soba, which was well accepted by consumers. The next step was the launch of “Vine Shige Masayuki Shoten,” a select store selling miso, soy sauce, and other seasonings that are indispensable to the dining table. This is the identity of Mr. Koyama’s roots, Vinegar Shige, and the uniquely Japanese food that he wanted to widely promote overseas. Vinegar Masayuki believes that the basis of “deliciousness” in Japan lies in soy sauce, miso, rice, and other ingredients, and he has continued to promote the appeal of seasonings and side dishes that enrich the daily dining table by displaying products carefully made in accordance with tradition, rather than those that are out of the ordinary.

Enjoying food with the best partners

In this way, he succeeded in increasing the number of fans of his own brand, and in 2007, he opened ” Restaurant Masayuki Vinegar Shige ” in Karuizawa, where you can enjoy dishes for lunch and dinner using the seasonings developed by Masayuki Vinegar Shige Shoten. The main products sold at “Vinegar Masayuki Shoten” are miso and soy sauce, but it is difficult to have customers taste them by themselves. That is why we thought that we could convey the appeal of our products even more by offering a meal in which white rice, the ideal partner to receive them, plays the leading role. This idea was also born from the desire to provide delicious food, warm space, and service that would make people want to come back again, even though the food and ingredients are not special.

The “copper kettle” used to make this happen conducts heat better than earthenware pots, and cooks food at high temperatures in one go, shortening the cooking time. As a result, “delicious freshly cooked rice” can always be served with each pot. The main reason for the adoption of the copper kettle was Mr. Koyama’s own unforgettably delicious experience of eating freshly cooked rice in a copper kettle at a copper artist’s house in Karuizawa when he was a junior high school student. Thus, he developed a copper kettle in collaboration with a craftsman, and the “deliciousness” he experienced at that time became the main focus of Restaurant Masayuki Vinegar. The restaurant offers a simple but never boring Japanese menu of freshly cooked rice and miso soup made with Vinegar’s own miso, which is made from rare soybeans, so that customers want to eat it every day. This freshly cooked rice and miso soup has become the cornerstone of conveying “authentic Japanese food” overseas, even as the restaurant expands overseas.

Spreading Japanese Food Culture to the World

After these two brands, Mr. Koyama has continued to develop many other food and beverage brands, such as “Sawamura” bakery and restaurant and “Ginza Sanada,” with a strong desire to convey the appeal of Japan and the rich natural environment of Nagano Prefecture in the best possible way. In the midst of all this, Mr. Koyama decided to take over the business of the original Vinegar Hisashi Shoten, which was looking for a successor. Thus, in 2021, the two families, once divided, will be united again and weave their future history together. This has opened up new business possibilities. Mr. Koyama’s vision of “introducing Japanese food culture to the world” has become more concrete, and he now has plans to open stores not only in Asia, where he currently has stores, but also in the United States and Europe. The dream of a young man who loves the excellence of Japanese food and wants to share it with the world has taken a giant leap forward and has grown into a brand that has made food connoisseurs all over Japan gasp in delight. The day may soon come when people all over the world will enjoy sake and conversation over Masayuki Vine Shige’s Japanese cuisine, and “Japanese sophistication” will become a global standard.

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A soba shop standing quietly in soba country

Located in Suwa-shi, Nagano Prefecture, Kajin An is a ”soba” shop serving handmade ”soba”. ”Soba” is a must-eat food in Nagano, so we headed to this hole-in-the-wall ”soba” shop. ”Sake” for aperitif was ”junmaiginjo Mikotsuru” brewed at Hishitomo Jozo, the only ”sake” cellar of the area. The ”sake” was named after the founder of the cellar saw a dream of a crane, ”tsuru”, resting gracefully at Suwa Lake. ”Sharp and refreshing taste” says Nakata. The delicious taste stimulates the palate.

Enjoying colorful tri-colored soba

The savory ”tri-colored soba” consists of three different types of soba – ”sarashina”, ”seiro”, and ”inaka”(countryside. The owner of the restaurant explained, ””Sarashina soba” is made from buckwheat ground twice after removing the outer shell (first grinding), making the ”soba” look white. ”Seiro soba” uses buckwheat ground together with the epidermis (second grinding), giving it aroma and a sweet flavor. ”Inaka soba” uses buckwheat ground with the remains of the second grinding, and is the most flavorful of the three.” We thoroughly enjoyed the taste of fresh ”soba” and the different aroma each has.

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68 Years Committed to the Sushi Industry

”Komatsu Yasuke” a prominent ”sushi” restaurant, that people refer to as, ”Jiro of the East, Yasuke of the West”. Unfortunately closed in November of 2015, Nakata had the opportunity of visiting this prestigious ”sushi” master before closing. Sushi master Kazuo Morita was 83 at the time. He entered the world of ”sushi” at 15 and had devoted his life to ”sushi” and only ”sushi” since then. ”Komatsu Yasuke” was the predecessor to Ginza Kyubei and has always been regarded as the ”Number 1 Sushi Master” of Japan, being one of the most famous ”sushi” restaurants in the country. People from everywhere around the country visited to have a taste of Morita’s ”sushi”.

Enjoying “sushi” with the eyes and the palate

We were first served squid ”sashimi” that was almost transparent. We asked how the moisture was removed. We were told ”Squid is very sensitive to moisture, so I quickly remove any moisture with a cloth.” The crab ”gunkan” named ”yuki momiji” is so popular among regulars that it has become a seasonal phrase in winter. It was named by a patron more than 20 years ago. The rice which enhances the seafood is from Gujo Hachiman in Gifu Prefecture. Each grain has a distinct shine, and according to Morita ”It comes from a region that has great water. The region also has a gap in the high and low temperatures, so the rice is tight.”

Always moving forward

As he enjoyed the delicious ”sushi”, Nakata commented. ”It is no wonder people from all over visit this restaurant to have a taste of this scrumptious feast.” Morita told us, ””Sushi” is always referred to as traditional and is something that is handed down, but you need to build up on it and keep on moving forward.” Morita himself often eats out on his days off, and 70% of the time has sushi. ”I try eating sushi all around Japan and I am inspired by young ”sushi” craftsmen. That links to my own progress.”

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Local restaurant loved by local writer Kundo Koyama

Sakitsu, Kawaura-machi, Amakusa-shi. There is a tiny sushi restaurant. Umitsuki, a restaurant where you can enjoy fresh seafood caught in local Sakitsu, in a Showa-style interior of a renovated house.
One of their standard dishes is ”Tako-inari (sushi wrapped in fired tofu).” This is a ”gomoku-style inari sushi” containing a lot of local ingredients such as octopus, burdock root, carrots, and ”shiitake” mushrooms, with a nostalgic and simple taste. The most popular dish ”Takoyaki-style inari-sushi” is the original creation of store manager Miyashita who trained in Osaka. Eel sauce (teriyaki sauce), dried bonito flakes, green dried seaweed, and mayonnaise are put on the ”Tako-inari”. This dish has been covered by the media on numerous occasions. It looks just like ”takoyaki” but for the lack of steam.

Amakusa, a town of underground Christians

Amakusa is often associated with the image of underground Christians. During the mid-sixteenth century, Christianity was transmitted to Amakusa which located in the southwest of Kumamoto prefecture. After Anti-Christian Edicts were issued, traces of underground Christians are can be seen all around this area. Even now, it is said that a cross can be found in some homes when you open a door next to a household Buddhist shrine.

Sakitsu Cathedral and Statue of Mary on the Ocean

Sakitsu Statue of Mary on the Ocean can be seen on the cape close to Sakitsu Cathedral, located at the gateway of Sakitsu fishing port. It was built by local Christian fishermen in the in the 1960s. Since then, it has been quietly watching out for the safety of fishing boats, and for a hefty catch. Fishermen give a prayer to the Statue of Mary before going out to sea, and again when they return.
This Statue of Mary is not that famous in Kumamoto because it was not built for sightseeing. However, the town of Amakusa which has a lot of history around Christianity and the anguish of the underground Christians, and the chalk white Statue of Mary which stands elegantly on the bluff, are both definitely worth a visit.

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