Tantalizing taste of handmade tofu

Nagao Tofu Shop, established in 1948, uses domestically grown soybeans to make tofu without any additives or preservatives. They are particular about bittern and use “mizu-nigari” (water bittern). Mizu-Nigari uses natural magnesium chloride extracted from seawater, which is rich in minerals and produces tofu with the sweetness of nigari itself.

The post Nagao Tofu” – Tofu made from carefully selected domestic ingredients / Omura City, Nagasaki Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Fukuda Shuzo is a long-established sake brewery that has been making sake in Hirado for about 330 years. The young brothers, Tatsuya and ShinjiFukuda, continue their pursuit of sake with a flavor that evokes the scenic beauty of Hirado, and that is both old tradition and newness. We took a closer look at the one-of-a-kind sake brewing process that can only be done in this region.

Japan’s westernmost sake brewery

The city of Hirado in Nagasaki Prefecture is located at the westernmost tip of the Kyushu mainland. It is a city of the sea, consisting of Hirado Island, which stretches long and narrow from north to south across the Hirado Seto, and about 40 islands of various sizes scattered around the island. It was the first place in Nagasaki where Christianity was preached, and in the 1600s it was the only Dutch trading port in Japan.

The Fukuda Sake Brewery has been brewing sake for 330 years in Hirado, founded in 1688 by Chojiheiemon Fukuda I as a purveyor to the Hirado clan. Today, the brewery is headed by the 14th generation Fukuda Akira, and his eldest son, Tatsuya, and his second son, Shinji, are responsible for the brewing process. The Fukuda series, the company’s flagship brand, won the Platinum Award in the Junmai-shu category at Kura Master, a sake competition held in France in 2018. The junmai ginjo of the same brand won gold in the junmai daiginjo-shu and junmai ginjo categories, and has steadily increased its recognition since then, winning gold for three consecutive years.

The company also produces Daiginjyo ” Fukutsuru ” and ” Nagasaki Bijin,” as well as ” Jagataraoharu,” a shochu made from Nagasaki-grown potatoes, “Kappitan,” a long-aged shochu produced by a secret method inherited from the Nanban people, and hon mirin (Japanese rice wine).

All raw materials are produced in Hirado

The rice used to make sake is mainly Yamada-Nishiki, known as the best rice for sake brewing, and is locally grown in Hirado. The Fukuda brothers have been working with a contracted farmer to revive terraced rice paddies in the area and cultivate the rice themselves. They do not use herbicides as much as possible, and they reduce weeds by manually and mechanically stirring up the mud in the paddy fields.

In the upper reaches of the terraced rice paddies, where there are almost no houses, there is no domestic wastewater, and the rice grown in the clear water from the mountains tastes different. By growing rice within reach, we are sensitive to changes in climate and environment, and this sensibility is also utilized in sake production,” says Tatsuya, the elder brother of the family.

This year, they have also started working again with a sake rice called ” reiho,” which was widely used in the Kyushu region in the 1970s. Yamada-Nishiki has a nice aroma and a clean taste, and in many ways it is an excellent rice. Reihou is easy to grow in warm regions and is suited to the climate of Hirado, so we are taking up the challenge again. It is said to have a mild aroma and a light mouthfeel, but I am looking forward to seeing how it will taste.

For brewing water, the company uses spring water fromYasumandake, the highest peak in Hirado City, which is included in the World Heritage Site “Nagasaki and Amakusa Region Related to Submerged Christians” and is rich in virgin forest. The low mineral content of the water and its softness and purity allow for slow fermentation, resulting in a mellow sake with no harsh taste.

The warm climate of this region and the fact that it is an old brewery make it difficult to control the temperature, but several years ago they replaced some of the enameled tanks with thermal tanks (tanks with cooling systems) to withstand the sudden temperature changes during the brewing season. Tatsuya says, “Since the temperature can be controlled on a tank-by-tank basis, we can manage unrefined sake without being affected by the outside air, which makes brewing easier.

Tasting the climate of Hirado through sake

Fukutsuru” and “Nagasaki Bijin” are representative of Fukuda Shuzo’s famous sake brewed in this way. Fukutsuru,” a daiginjo-shu made from home-grown Yamada-Nishiki and fermented slowly at low temperature, has a slightly sweet taste with a fruity flavor that is popular among women.

The “Fukuda” series, which has won numerous awards at sake competitions in Japan and abroad, is another popular new product from the Fukuda Shuzo brewery. Fukuda,” says Tatsuya, “has a soft aroma that blends well with the gentle flavor of Yamada Nishiki, and it has a clean aftertaste that makes it easy to drink without interfering with food. It is also attracting attention as a food sake, which is unique to Hirado, a city with an abundance of seafood.

Potato Shochu” unique to Nagasaki

In addition to sake, Fukuda Shuzo also produces shochu. In particular, “Jagataraoharu,” a potato shochu liqueur that is rare in Japan, is a popular brand that is well known locally. When one thinks of potato production, Hokkaido comes to mind, but Nagasaki is actually the second largest producer of potatoes after Hokkaido. The shochu is made from fresh potatoes, barley, and rice malt, and carefully distilled using techniques cultivated over many years. It is rich in potassium and vitamin C, which is not easily destroyed by heating, making it popular among health-conscious people. Incidentally, “Jagatara” refers to present-day Jakarta. It is said that the “Jakarta potato” brought from Jakarta became the “potato.

The Fukuda brothers say, “We named it after the history of the potato, as well as in memory of a Nagasaki woman named ‘Oharu-san’ who was once exiled to the land of Jakarta due to the Christian ban. The sake has a mild yet subtle potato flavor, and is best enjoyed while contemplating the history of Hirado, which has come into contact with the breath of Western civilization.

KAPITAN, a secret sake stored for 10 years

The barley shochu “Kabitan ” is another unusual shochu. The flavor of the barley is extracted through traditional atmospheric distillation, then packed in oak barrels and slowly aged for 5 to 10 years in a warehouse built at the time of the company’s founding. The amber-colored, matured “KAPITAN” is a secret sake with a spicy aroma characteristic of oak barrels, a mild flavor, and a rich, natural barley taste. It is recommended to drink it on the rocks or with water like whiskey, but it is best to enjoy it with a meal, as it has a refreshing taste with few peculiarities.

Hon Mirin,” which plays a starring role rather than a supporting role

Along with the wide variety of sakes, the most impressive is ” hon mirin,” or Japanese sweet cooking rice wine, made exclusively from locally produced ingredients. Mirin is subject to liquor tax because it contains 12-15% alcohol, and since the 2011 revision of the Sake Tax Law made it easier to obtain a manufacturing license, an increasing number of local sake breweries have obtained licenses to produce mirin and are working to develop new products. Fukuda Shuzo is one such company. After graduating from university, his younger brother Shinji learned mirin production at the brewery where he had trained, and obtained a license in 2016 after returning to his hometown. He obtained a license in 2016 after returning to his hometown, and is now producing “authentic” mirin while utilizing the know-how unique to a sake brewery.

Mirin is made using only three ingredients: locally grown glutinous rice called “mochi-minori,” rice malt, and rice shochu. While many mirin are made with brewing alcohol or sugar to compensate for the lack of saccharification, Fukuda Shuzo’s mirin is made the old-fashioned way, with the sweetness of the rice slowly extracted over a period of three months. We can’t say it enough, but it makes a big difference in the quality of our food,” said Shinji. It is also good to drink,” Shinji himself assures us.

Sake brewing is made with heart and nurtured by the wind.

Fukuda Sake Brewery has been in the brewing business for more than 330 years since receiving permission from the lord of the Hirado domain to produce “Fukutsuru” sake. As I listen to the story and sip the sake, I am reminded not only of the history and culture of Hirado, but also of the scenery of Hirado, including the fields where rice is grown and the mountains where water gushes out of the ground. And the smiling faces of the brewery workers who devote themselves to sake brewing.

The determination to carry on a family business that has been in existence for more than 300 years must be extraordinary. With this strong sense of mission in mind, he continues to work hard today to make sake that will be enjoyed by many people under the motto of ” making sake that brings smiles to people’s faces.

The post Fukuda Sake Brewery, which has been conveying the terroir of Hirado, Japan’s westernmost city, for more than 300 years / Hirado City, Nagasaki Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Shimada Ochadokoro uses carefully selected Sogicha from Nagasaki Prefecture and Yame tea from Fukuoka Prefecture to make its original products. How do they produce their products, which have won high acclaim both in Japan and abroad, including the “Japanese Tea AWARD” and the silver prize at the “Japanese Tea Selection Paris 2020,” the only Japanese tea competition in Paris? We visited Ms. Yuko Shimada of “Ochadokoro Shimada.

The award-winning “Ochadokoro Shimada

Three minutes walk from JR Isahaya Station in Nagasaki Prefecture. Located in a quiet urban area, not far from the Honmyo River, the only first-class river in the prefecture, “Ochadokoro Shimada” is a Japanese tea shop that has won many awards at domestic tea fairs such as “Japanese Tea AWARD” and the only Japanese tea competition in Paris, “Japanese Tea Selection Paris 2020” Silver Prize, and has attracted attention. The owner, Yuka Shimada, is the owner of the store.

The owner, Yuko Shimada, is from Higashisonogi-cho, a production area of “Sonogicha,” which has achieved remarkable results in the steamed tama-green tea category at recent national tea fairs. She was involved in the tea business as a wholesaler, buying tea leaves directly from tea farmers, blending and processing them, and then selling them. I am the sixth generation in the family to make Japanese tea. Since I was a child, I have watched my father purchase and process tea leaves, and I have learned the importance of tea finishing and how to look at the raw leaves,” he said. The store is lined with a variety of products that Mr. Shimada carefully purchases.

I think it is important to pass on the culture and excellence of Japanese tea to the next generation. We have been creating the ideal taste of Japanese tea by utilizing the experience and knowledge we learned from our predecessors and asking for cooperation from tea growers and tea makers to find out what kind of Japanese tea consumers want.

Shimada’s switch from a wholesaler to a retailer who sells directly to consumers has allowed him to directly feel the reactions of consumers. Using this strength, he communicates in detail to the tea growers his requests for the variety of tea leaves to be used, the degree of heat, and other details. His clients are producers of high-quality tea leaves in Nagasaki and Fukuoka prefectures. They are all highly skilled tea growers and tea makers with whom we have had a long relationship since the previous generation. The relationship of trust built up through the long history as a tea wholesaler is the key to the taste that Mr. Shimada pursues.

Promoting the deliciousness of Japanese tea and the beauty of tea culture

Mr. Shimada considers it his role to promote the excellence of tea culture inherited from his ancestors. While working as a Japanese tea instructor in Japan and abroad, he is constantly searching for ways to make “delicious Japanese tea” that fits modern lifestyles. For example, the development of collaborative products with local high school students is part of his activities. A variety of tea varieties including green tea, roasted tea, and brown rice tea were prepared and blended by the high school students to create “tea that high school students would want to put in their own bottles. Two things became clear from this experience. First, different generations have completely different tastes. Second, there is a need for high-quality “tea bag” products that allow students to brew tea without using a teapot. The taste of the tea they made was very weak to me. In other words, young people want tea that they can drink in gulps. After being in the tea industry for so many years, it is easy to get caught up in the umami, sweetness, and color of the tea. Of course that is very important, but it is equally important to recognize the difference in taste from what consumers, especially young people, are looking for,” he said. In light of the fact that the custom of brewing tea in a teapot is disappearing these days, the company is also focusing on the development of tea bags and instant tea products. The Japanese teabags we make are made from gauze, which allows the tea leaves to open easily when hot water is poured over them, bringing out their sweetness and aroma,” he says. While we respect Japanese teas with great flavor, water color, and sweetness that are highly evaluated at trade fairs, there should be teas that can be enjoyed casually in everyday life. While paying great respect to the efforts and techniques of tea growers who are preparing for the rigorous judging of their products, we are also seeking products that meet the needs of the times and do not fit too neatly into the old form. Mr. Shimada believes that such a light and flexible “way of Japanese tea” will lead to the further development of Japanese tea culture.

Awards and representative products of Shimada Tea House

Shimada’s main products are carefully selected “Sonogicha” from Nagasaki and “Yamecha” from Hoshinomura, Fukuoka. The wide range of products from top-quality teas to daily-use leaf teas, mizusashi teas, tea bags, and instant teas is attractive. The following three products are particularly noteworthy.

Yame Traditional Hon Gyokuro “Zesshin”.

The 2019 product won the Japanese Tea AWARD Grand Prize and the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award, while the 2020 product won the Silver Prize at the Japanese Tea Selection Paris, the only Japanese tea competition in Paris. The rich umami and aroma of this tea envelops the palate the moment it enters the mouth, and is a masterpiece of artisan craftsmanship that combines tradition and innovation.

Yame Sencha “Tsuyu Torori

Made in 2022 won the Platinum Award in the Gogumi Sencha category at the Japan Tea AWARD.

By blending varieties characterized by rich flavor, deep taste, etc., the aroma and flavor are at their best. You can enjoy a trolley of well-balanced tastes.

Roasted tea “Kaorihime

This green oolong tea is lightly wilted and carefully roasted to bring out its gentle and elegant floral and roasted aroma. It won the Silver Award at the 2021 Paris Japanese Tea Selection and the Platinum Award in the hojicha category at the 2022 Japanese Tea AWARD.

Pursuing the Future of Japanese Tea

Mr. Shimada’s goal is to create Japanese teas that fit comfortably into the modern Japanese lifestyle. First of all, he is developing teabags and mizudashi teas that can be brewed without using a teapot, with the aim of making it easy to enjoy Japanese tea in everyday use. On the other hand, however, there are many people who want to fully enjoy the individuality of high quality Japanese tea by brewing it in an authentic way. I am in a position to listen to the voices of both consumers and producers. I am in a position to listen to both consumers and producers, and I will continue my efforts to create “tasty and pleasant Japanese tea” for a wide variety of targets by incorporating the opinions and requests of both parties and actively reflecting the opinions of those outside the tea industry.

Until the establishment of the Sogicha Promotion Council about 35 years ago, Japanese tea from Nagasaki Prefecture was sold as “Ureshino-cha” from Saga Prefecture. Today, however, the presence and brand power of Nagasaki tea is growing by the day, as evidenced by the fact that Sonogicha won first place in Japan in the steamed tama green tea category at a national tea fair. The growers are very positive and have high skills and abilities. If we can work together with them to set clear taste goals and achieve them, I think Japanese tea will become even more interesting,” says Mr. Shimada. He continues to promote Japanese tea culture to consumers with respect for tea producers and passion and love for Japanese tea, while cherishing the ties that his predecessors have built as a tea wholesaler. We see a bright future for the Japanese tea industry in Mr. Shimada’s cheerful and flexible attitude as he continues to take on the challenge of “making delicious tea.

The post Truly delicious Japanese tea” – Shimada, a tea shop /Isahaya City, Nagasaki Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

In Nagasaki, there is a hot spring resort that is said to have the highest “hot spring calorific value” in Japan, which is calculated by multiplying the amount of hot spring water gushing out by the temperature of the hot spring water. On the west side of the Shimabara Peninsula is Kohama Onsen, a hot spring where steamy water billows out from every corner of the town. We visited Tatehiro Kimura of “Unzen Ecolo Salt,” who continues to make salt using an environmentally friendly method that makes use of the energy of the land.

About the Shimabara Peninsula where Kohama Onsen is located

The Shimabara Peninsula, located in the southern part of Nagasaki Prefecture, is rich in natural beauty and is known as the “Nagasaki Prefecture Shimabara Peninsula UNESCO World Geopark,” centering on the active volcano “Unzen Volcano”. The peninsula has a large underground magma reservoir that has sometimes caused major disasters, but has also provided geothermal heat and hot springs to the people living on the peninsula. The peninsula is also known as “Unzen Hot Spring Resort” because the hot spring resorts of Shimabara, Unzen, and Obama are located across the peninsula from east to west, and many more are scattered along the north and south sides of the peninsula.

Obama Hot Spring Features

Kohama Onsen, located on the west side of Unzen Hot Spring Resort, is a scenic hot spring resort overlooking Tachibana Bay where the sunset is beautiful. The town is dotted with about 30 hot spring sources, so one can see the steam rising from them here and there. The temperature of the hot spring is extremely high, around 105 degrees Celsius, and the “hot spring calorific value,” which is calculated by multiplying the amount of hot spring water gushing out by the temperature of the water, is the highest in Japan. The area has so much geothermal energy that a power generation project is underway.

History of Obama Hot Springs and Salt Making

Kohama Onsen, which boasts an unparalleled amount of hot spring heat, has a history of flourishing in the salt manufacturing industry. Taking advantage of the location of the high-temperature hot springs near the coast, the salt manufacturing industry began in earnest in 1941. The salt manufacturing method is the hot water boiling method, in which pumped up hot spring water is evaporated by the heat of the source. The salt imports were drastically reduced due to the World War II, and the local salt supply had to be secured as soon as possible. During the postwar period, when supplies were scarce, salt production in the area accounted for 2% of the nation’s salt production. However, the salt production method required large quantities of hot spring water, and by 1955, the salt sources were nearly depleted. However, the salt production method, which required large quantities of hot spring water, was affected by the depletion of the source in 1955. Furthermore, natural disasters and cheap salt imports from overseas gradually made it unprofitable, and in 1965, salt production at Obama Onsen completely ceased.

Tatehiro Kimura, who revived salt production at Kohama Onsen

The history of the salt manufacturing industry in Kohama Onsen was completely cut off. However, after about 50 years, someone has single-handedly restarted salt production in Kohama, using an environmentally friendly method. He is Tatehiro Kimura of Unzen Ecolo Salt.

Mr. Kimura originally ran a sushi restaurant in Nagasaki City and was a skilled sushi chef himself. He is very particular about the taste of his food and wants his customers to enjoy delicious dishes. I used to make salt in my own way,” he said. The customers were always impressed with the taste of the soup,” he said! I was very impressed with the taste. Witnessing the importance of salt in cooking, I was inspired to think that one day I would like to make ‘really delicious salt’ in my hometown,” he says.

Mr. Kimura’s passion for salt production grew day by day. It was at the age of 60 that he decided to close his sushi restaurant and enter the world of salt manufacturing. I learned how salt is made using hot spring heat from a former employee of a salt factory in Obama, and I visited salt makers all over the country. Through trial and error, I arrived at my current method. In 2011, Kimura’s salt production finally began in earnest when he was granted permission to operate a salt manufacturing business at the source managed by the city.

Visit Unzen Ecolo Salt Co.

When we visited Unzen Ecolo Salt, located along the coast not far from the center of Obama Onsen Town, we found Mr. Kimura quietly working alone in a factory filled with the heat of the hot spring water. Hot water was pouring out of a drilling machine beside the factory, where a cloud of steam was rising, through a channel. The temperature of the spring water is 105 degrees Celsius, but this water is exposed to the air, so it’s probably 92.3 degrees Celsius,” said Kimura. There is a large magma pool at the bottom of Tachibana Bay. The reason the hot water at Obama Onsen is so hot is because it is so close to this magma pool, ” he says, pointing to the calm Tachibana Bay stretching out before him.

Making Unzen Ecolo Salt

The factory has a pool filled with hot spring water, in which several containers the size of a tatami mat are floated. In these containers, hot spring water and seawater pumped up from the seafloor of Tachibana Bay are added, and the salt is concentrated by slowly boiling the water in the pool. The salt concentration is about 0.2% hot spring water and 3% seawater. The blend is said to produce a mellowness that cannot be expressed by seawater alone. When the salt crystals harden, they are roughly scraped off with a special wooden spatula. Licking the salt at this point leaves a pungent taste on the tongue due to the nigari component, but drying the salt in the sun in a shed next to the factory rounds out the flavor and gives it a silky texture. Obama’s salt, which is made by slowly and carefully concentrating nature’s bounty, has gained a reputation by word of mouth and is now receiving orders from famous restaurants nationwide, including hotel restaurants, steak houses, sushi restaurants, and boulangeries.

The lack of sudden temperature changes produces salt as smooth as snow.

The size and texture of the crystals change depending on how the fire is set.

Environmentally friendly salt production

Most of the salt currently available in Japan is produced using a salt manufacturing method that requires a large amount of fuel, and is feared to be environmentally destructive due to its high CO2 emissions. Unzen Ecolo Salt, on the other hand, efficiently utilizes the heat from hot springs to produce environmentally friendly salt. The hot spring water used at Unzen Ecolo Salt is water that used to be discarded into the sea without being used. In Obama, 15,000 tons of hot spring water gushes out in one day. But in fact, about 35% of it is discharged into the ocean unused. This is a real waste. I thought there was no way to avoid using it to make salt,” says Kimura. Currently, “Unzen Ecolo Salt” produces about 1 ton of salt per year, and the utility cost is only 6,000 yen. The salt is produced by gradually evaporating brine from a high-temperature spring, which requires almost no fuel. It is truly an environmentally friendly method of salt production that does not waste nature’s bounty.

Product Usage and Characteristics

From the transportation of the underground seawater pumped up by drilling to the inspection and bagging of the products, Mr. Kimura does everything by hand to make “Unzen Ecolo Salt” salt. The salt comes in a variety of forms, from a fine powder that melts like snow to grains and liquid salt that leaves a nice texture on the tongue, but the most popular are “Kohama Onsen Salt Jewel” and “Seasoning Liquid Salt.

Obama Onsen Salt Jewel

A mild salt with minerals dissolved in the hot spring water and a delicious flavor. It is a well-balanced blend of hot spring water and seawater pumped up from the seabed of Tachibana Bay, with slightly coarse crystals. The crystals are slightly coarse and gently enhance the original flavor of the ingredients.

Seasoning liquid salt

Liquid salt blended with hot spring water and seawater with a salt content of approximately 20%. Soak sashimi in this salt and refrigerate for half a day to two days to tighten the flesh and enhance the flavor. It can be used for grilled fish, yakitori, baking, etc. It is also recommended for making onigiri (rice balls),” says Kimura. This product is the result of his experience as a former sushi chef.

Mr. Kimura’s passion for salt production

A survey revealed that the salt produced by Mr. Kimura contains a good balance of minerals that are ideal for the human body. Salt is like air to humans. We take it for granted, so the quality is important,” says Kimura. The taste of salt changes slightly depending on the weather and temperature, and like a living creature, salt shows different expressions every day. Kimura intends to devote the rest of his life to the charm and potential of salt.

When asked about his future plans after 10 years of salt production, he replied, ” There is romance in salt production. I will just continue to silently make salt with the belief that the salt I make is the best salt available,” he said. The reason why Unzen Ecolo Salt is favored by food professionals is not only because of the condensed taste of the blessings of the sea and the mountains, but also because of Kimura’s earnest passion.

The post Mild salt produced in the hot spring area with the highest calorific value in Japan, slowly condensing the blessings of nature / Unzen City, Nagasaki Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Iki Beef” is also known as a rare and rare beef because of its taste and rarity. Born in the blessed natural environment of Iki Island, a small island in the Sea of Genkai, and raised on grass rich in minerals from the sea, the beef is tender, rich, and crisp. The tour will unravel the history of Wagyu beef in Iki, which has a history dating back to the Yayoi period, and visit Umeshima Farm, a fattening farm that raises high-quality Iki beef.

What is Iki Island, which raises fantastic and famous beef?

Iki Island is a small island in the Genkai Sea in Kyushu, 17 km from north to south and 14 km from east to west. The island’s mild climate and rich natural environment have allowed an agricultural culture to flourish since ancient times, and its proximity to the Chinese mainland and the Korean peninsula has made it a prosperous center for cultural exchange. The island has been closely associated with the gods since ancient times, as evidenced by its appearance in Japan’s oldest historical book, Kojiki, as “Amenohitotsubashira,” which serves as a transportation route between heaven and earth.

The roots of Wagyu come from Nagasaki! 　History of Iki Island and Wagyu

The history of cattle breeding on Iki Island is long. Iki, which was a base for continental exchange, gathered various cultures via the Korean Peninsula, and it is thought that the ancestors of Iki beef also came to the island at that time. The bones of domestic cattle have been excavated from the “Hara no Tsuji Ruins,” which tells the history of Iki in the Yayoi period, and furthermore, in the illustrated “Surugi Eshi” of the Kamakura period about domestic cattle, they appear as “Surugi” pulling an ox cart. In the “Ten Illustrations of National Cattle,” also from the Kamakura period, it is praised as “nothing is superior to Tsukushi cattle (Iki cattle),” and there is a description that it was used as food by the Yuan army during the time of the Yuan invasion.

From Service Cattle to Food Cattle

Iki’s Wagyu cattle were mainly used as service cattle for transportation, taking advantage of their well-proportioned physique. The reason why the breed has been handed down from the Yayoi period to the present through the mechanization of agriculture is because of the quality of its meat. Iki is an island where rice cultivation has long flourished. The island is small enough to drive around in less than two hours, and has the second largest “Fukae Tabaru Plain” in Nagasaki Prefecture, where rice cultivation has thrived since ancient times, taking advantage of the fertile soil, mild climate, and abundant water. It is said that “Iki cattle” began when they were used as oxen to pull ox carts for agricultural work, etc. The bones of domestic cattle have been excavated from ruins from the Yayoi period on the island, suggesting that cattle meat was already being consumed at that time. It is said that the reason why cattle continued to remain on Iki Island even after agricultural machinery evolved and cattle power was no longer needed was because the meat quality of cattle, which lived on grass containing many minerals unique to an island surrounded by the sea, was excellent as food cattle.

What is Iki beef?

Currently, about 13,000 head of cattle are raised in Iki, including bred cattle of all types, but only 900 head of Iki beef can be shipped out each year. The reason for the small number of cattle shipped is that there are strict regulations for raising Iki beef. There are four regulations. It must be black Japanese beef born and raised on Iki Island. It must be raised by a member of the Iki City Agricultural Cooperative Association’s fattening section. The cattle must be fed our original formula feed “Ichishikoku”. The meat quality grade must be 3rd grade or higher. If these conditions are not met, the beef is not recognized as Iki beef. The fat of Iki beef has a low melting point and is rich and sharp, while the lean meat is rich in flavor and tender. Its deliciousness and rarity increase the value of Iki beef.

In fact, it is a hidden production area of calves for fattening famous brand beef.

The quality of calves born in Iki is highly evaluated by fattening farmers throughout Japan, and it is not unusual for fattening farmers of famous brand cattle such as Tajima beef and Matsuzaka beef, for example, to come to Iki to purchase calves. In other words, there are not a few cases where calves born in Iki are raised outside the island and shipped as local brand beef. Not only calves, but also bulls born on Iki are highly evaluated nationwide. In the Wagyu world, in fact, elite cattle born in Iki are active.

Until “Iki beef” is shipped

What kind of process does the rare Iki beef go through before being shipped? The rough flow is as follows. First, the Iki beef calves born by artificial insemination are kept and managed as “fattening cows” at the breeding farmer. The calves are raised for 8 to 10 months at the farmer’s farm, and then go to the livestock market. Here, the calves are taken over by the fattening farmers and carefully cared for for about 20 months. Iki beef calves are raised to be well-fed and then shipped to the meat market, where they spend their time in peace and quiet without ever leaving the island.

To Umeshima Chikusan, a fattening farmer in Iki Island

It was late April when I visited a seaside cattle barn near Kintohira Shrine on the east side of Iki Island. In the clean barn of “Umeshima Livestock Breeding,” which smelled of rice straw, the wind from the sea was blowing comfortably, and the beautiful black Iki cows were spending their time peacefully.

Umeshima Chikusan, which handles everything from fattening to restaurant management and meat sales, is run by second-generation brothers Hideaki and Kazuyuki Umeshima. About 20 years ago, they started producing “Iki Beef” as a brand name beef. My father, who was originally a breeding farmer, switched to being a fattening farmer around that time, and that is where we are today,” says Kazuyuki, the younger brother in charge of the fattening operation. Currently, 150-200 head of cattle live in the sanitary barn.

Healthy fattening environment

Kazuyuki gently watches over the cows as they leisurely eat their feed in the well-maintained barn. The rich environment of the island is nurturing the cows born and raised on Iki in good health. What the cattle are eating now is a feed called “Ichishikoku,” a special formula feed for Iki cattle that was produced at the JA Kitakyushu Kumiai Feed Fukuoka Plant about 15 years ago by members of the Iki City Agricultural Cooperative Association’s Fattening Division, who were aiming for better meat quality.

In addition to preparing the breeding environment, Kazuyuki also pays close attention to the physical condition of the cattle. He says that the second to third months after the cows are brought into the barn as calves is a particularly important period. During this period, it is essential to build up the stomachs of the calves so that they are able to eat grass-based meals, which will promote their subsequent fattening. If calves have strong stomachs when they are calves, they will be able to take in compound feed when they are in the prime of their lives and grow up to be large and healthy. Even with all the love and care that goes into raising cattle in this way, there are still some cows that die from disease. They need to be especially careful about sudden onset of illnesses.

As a fattening farmer, the most important thing is to observe the cows carefully. Cows cannot talk, but they tell us many things with their attitude. They may be sitting in an unusual place, or their heads may be slightly down… We must not miss such small signs.

The work of a fattening farmer is 365 days a year, with not a single day off. Physical strength, experience, and knowledge are essential, as well as love and passion. I love cows. It is that love that keeps me going,” smiles Kazuyuki. The Iki beef from Umeshima Livestock Breeding, for which he spends a great deal of time, effort, and love, has won many awards, including the Gold Prize at the 40th Kyushu Beef Beef Carcass Show, the Grand Prize at the 2010 Opening Memorial Meat Fair (beef carcass), and the Gold Prize at the 7th Iki City Wagyu Beef Breeding Show (beef cattle category).

To “Ajidokoro Umeshima,” a restaurant directly managed by Umeshima Chikusan

A 10-minute drive from the cattle barn. Ajijidokoro Umeshima” is directly managed by “Umeshima Livestock Breeding,” located right in front of Ashibe Port. The restaurant is popular among locals and tourists alike for its reasonably-priced dishes such as filet steak, special roast, and grilled beef, all of which are made from high-quality Iki beef, which is tender and bright red with cream-colored tannins. The restaurant also has a direct sales shop, from which Iki beef can be shipped nationwide.

The restaurant is run by Hideaki Umeshima, the older of the Umeshima brothers. Hideaki, who aspires to be a chef, founded the restaurant to fulfill his father’s wish to “provide our customers with beef that we have raised with great care with our own hands. About 30 years ago, my father, who had just started out as a fattening farmer, participated in a cattle show for the first time and the results were not good. However, my father used the results as a springboard to say, ‘From now on, I’m going to raise high-quality cattle in Iki! He was inspired. Now, every time I hear a customer say how delicious our beef is, I remember how hopeful and strong my father was at that time,” he says. Thanks to my father and his predecessors, Iki beef is here, the culture of Iki, and our lives. I have nothing but gratitude. I am confident and proud that my younger brother is currently raising better Iki beef.

The Future of Umeshima Farm

People and cattle have lived together on Iki Island since ancient times. The high-quality compost produced from Iki cattle is used for rice cultivation, and the straw from this is used to feed the cattle, once again raising healthy Iki cattle. In this way, cyclical agriculture has been practiced on the island since ancient times. Today, asparagus, one of the island’s main crops, is grown using compost from Iki cattle, and is highly regarded throughout the country. In other words, sustainable agriculture has been practiced on Iki Island for a long time, and is now evolving even further. My wish is that Iki beef will continue to be appreciated as delicious 100 years from now, and even after that. I would be happy if young people from inside and outside of the island who have hope will want to raise cattle on Iki, an island of primary industry,” says Hideaki. From his words, we could sense his generous personality and deep love for the island, born from its history as a center of cultural exchange and its blessed natural environment.

The post Umeshima Livestock Breeding,” which carefully carries on the tradition of “Iki beef,” a famous beef born and raised in Iki/Iki City, Nagasaki Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

There is a brewery in Nagasaki that makes sake using the ” Hanegi Shibori” method, which is extremely rare in Japan. The process involves hard labor and is difficult to mass produce, and today there are only a few remaining in Japan. We visited a sake brewery that continues to experiment with the use of ” flower yeast” isolated from flowers in nature, in addition to the “spring wood pressing” method, in order to enhance its unique brand power.

Sake brewing rarely seen in Japan

Minamishimabara City, Nagasaki Prefecture. Yoshidaya, a sake brewery located in Arike-machi, where breweries of soy sauce and miso still remain, has been making sake the old-fashioned way: by using a giant 8-meter-long tree with a weight hanging from it and applying pressure to the unrefined sake using the principle of leverage, the sake is squeezed out by “hitenoki shibori,” a method that is not only labor-intensive but also very expensive. In addition to being very labor-intensive, this method is now rarely seen in Japan, with only about five breweries remaining in the country, as modernization has led many breweries to introduce mechanical presses. Unlike machine pressing, this method produces a very mild and full flavor, and sake made by this method is now rare and precious.

Yoshidaya was founded in 1917. Originally, Yoshidaya was a long-established sake brewery that made sake using the “repellent wood pressing” method, but as time went by, they shifted to machine pressing in the 1970s. By 1984, when the current brewery owner,Yoshiaki Yoshida, returned to Nagasaki after studying brewing at a university in Tokyo, the brewery was producing and selling only a small amount of regular sake, which was well known locally.

The wooden press has been revived again after mechanization.

As the successor to a nearly century-old sake brewery, young Yoshiaki, with high aspirations and a renewed interest in sake brewing, began again to produce so-called “high-end” sake such asginjo-shu andjunmai-shu that meet the requirements for rice polishing ratio and ingredients. However, it was difficult to produce such sake with the facilities of the time, which had minimized the number of production lines, and it was a daily process of repeated trial and error.

Then, Mr. Yoshiaki turned his attention to a piece of wood that had been left untouched in the brewery. The tools were still there, so I decided to take the plunge,” he said. However, there were no personnel who could properly make sake using the wooden press, which he had long since moved away from. After much research based on the records left behind at the brewery and the few memories of the brewers, the wooden press was finally revived in 1997. It had been 13 years since Yoshiaki returned to Nagasaki.

Heavy Labor and All Manual Work

In the “repellent wood pressing” process, bags of unrefined sake are piled in a wooden frame called a “ fune,” and pillows are stacked high on top of the bags. Once the top layer is placed on the top and weights are placed on top, the sake is slowly pressed out by the natural weight of the sake without applying any undue pressure. Although it cannot be mass-produced, the sake is not completely ” squeezed ” like a machine, which removes any residual flavor and gives the sake a clean, gentle taste.

On the other hand, the process requires an extraordinary amount of labor. The tank is so large and deep that the brewer’s upper body is upside down as he piles in the sake bags. Sometimes it takes two people to load the bags, with the other brewer holding the bags in both hands and supporting the legs to prevent them from falling off the head. If there is too much unrefined sake, or if the bags are not stacked properly, the pressure will not be applied properly and the bags may tear, so everything is done by hand, relying on long years of experience and sense.

Sparing no effort and putting in a lot of time and effort

Both the placing of the sleepers and the operation of the amida wheel, which moves the 8-meter-long repellent, are done by hand. Once the wood is placed on the sleeper, the final step is to hang the 60 heavy weights one by one from the roof. The weight of each weight is 16 to 18 kilograms. Each one weighs 16 to 18 kilograms, or about one ton.

Filling, labeling, and shipping are all done by hand. It is precisely because of the careful, meticulous, and painstaking effort that goes into each step of the process that the sake has a more than profound flavor.

Another special feature of “flower yeast

Yeast is one of the ingredients that greatly affects the taste of sake. Since different types of yeastproduce different aromas and flavors, the choice of yeast is an important factor in sake brewing. Typical yeasts include ” Kyokai Yeast ” and ” Prefecture Yeast “.

Yoshidaya uses a type of yeast called ” hana-yeast,” which is a natural sake yeast that exists in nature and is neither of these. Yeast exists everywhere in nature, but it is especially abundant in flowers and fruits. The ” Flower Yeast Research Group ” of the Tokyo University of Agriculture, which has focused its attention on this issue, has succeeded in isolating yeast from flowers for the first time in the world. Currently, more than a dozen types of flower yeast are in practical use. Since this university is the alma mater of Mr. Yoshiaki, he has had the opportunity to use flower yeast from the time of its development.

When one hears the term “flower yeast,” the image of a strong and gorgeous aroma comes to mind, but Kamiaki says, “Rather than being aromatic, the appeal of flower yeast is the wide range of flavors it offers. I change the brewing method according to the yeast, asking myself, “What flavor will this yeast give me? We are constantly researching, trying to find out what kind of flavor this yeast will produce, and changing the brewing process to match the yeast,” he says.

Different types of flowers have different fermentation characteristics.

The “Hanegi-shibori Junmai Ginjo-shu” using nadeshiko yeast has a gorgeous aroma and a dry, yet moist sweet taste that spreads in the mouth.

Junmai Daiginjyo Seisen Seisen Seijo Nagare (Junmai Daiginjyo Seisen Sekijo Nagare),” popular for its sweet and fruity aroma like a fruit wine, uses abelia yeast. It is a confident product with an elegant and smooth taste, but with a refreshing sharpness after drinking.

The next generation of brewers is working on a new flower yeast.

Another notable product is ” BANG,” a junmai ginjo-shu developed by his son Kaichiro (5th generation) after he returned to the brewery following his training. Although the sake has an alcohol content of 16%, it has a light flavor with a refreshing sweetness that does not give the impression of being strong. The new brand opens a new door for Yoshidaya by using oscillating banana yeast for the first time, and the name “BANG” is derived from Yoshidaya’s long-established brand name ” Bansho,” which shows the aspirations of the next generation to carry on the good old traditions.

The name “BANG” is derived from Yoshidaya’s long-established brand name “Mansho! The name “Bansho” is derived from Yoshidaya’s long-established brand name, “Mansho”. I hope you will enjoy it at various temperatures, as its expression changes dramatically with changes in temperature,” says Kaichiro.

Products Other Than Sake Gaining Momentum

Other products include “Hanegi Shibori Junmai Sake” made with Tsurubara yeast, which balances sweetness, acidity, pleasant bitterness, and a full-bodied umami flavor, and ” Himawari Yeast Sake,” a special junmai sake with a refreshing summery flavor reminiscent of fresh fruit with a slight sourness. Yoshidaya uses floral yeast in all of its brands. Yoshidaya says, “There are still many new things coming out with hana-yeast, and we don’t know much about it yet. That’s why we are looking forward to it.

In addition to sake, other products such as ” Umeshu ” (plum wine) based on sake and ” Hyakunen Amazake” (sweet sake made by naturally fermenting rice malt in a bottle) are also gaining popularity. The amazake won the top prize (2018) at the “Treasures of Japan” world competition.

We want to spread Nagasaki’s sake throughout the country.

While his predecessor once steered the company toward mechanization, Yoshiaki Yoshiaki, the fourth generation, revived the old traditional method of repellent wood pressing in the modern age and pioneered his own unique line of flower yeast. The fifth generation, KAICHIRO, continues to try to incorporate new sake brewing knowledge and techniques into the brewery. Sake is made in the cold season, and it has long been believed that sake is best made in colder regions. The fact that Mr. and Mrs. Yoshida are taking no notice of this and are enthusiastic about sake brewing in Nagasaki is rather refreshing.

It is still not uncommon for people to be surprised to hear, “Sake is made in Nagasaki, too? It is still not uncommon for people to be surprised to hear, “Sake is made in Nagasaki, too! I hope that we can change these conventional values, even if only slightly, and grow into a sake brewery that is not afraid of change and can proudly present Nagasaki sake to the rest of the country,” he says with a cheerful smile as he speaks strongly about the brewery’s future. Although the brewery is small, with a current production of only 90 koku, I can see a bright future for Nagasaki sake in their persistent belief in their own particular style of sake brewing.

The post Yoshidaya”: Unique sake created from two specialties: “splash wood” and “flower yeast” / Minamishimabara City, Nagasaki Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Located in Minamishimabara City, Nagasaki Prefecture, one of the largest producers of somen in Japan, Takahashi Ken Somen is a long-established noodle mill that makes hand-pulled somen the old-fashioned way.
The soft and fluffy somen has long been loved by many people for its firmness and refreshing taste.
The company also produces hand-pulled udon noodles and Chinese noodles that incorporate the somen production method.

Nowadays, most “hand-pulled somen” are made by machine. In such an environment, one of the few noodle mills that continue to follow the traditional method of hand-stretching noodles is located in Minamishimabara City, Nagasaki Prefecture, a prime production center of somen noodles. What is the origin of this insistence on “hand-stretching” in today’s increasingly mechanized world?

Soumen stretched by hand and by machine

Do you know that some packages of Soumen you see in stores say only ” Soumen ” and others say ” Hand-Pulled Soumen “? The difference is the production method. Somen” is made from a mixture of wheat flour, salt, and water, rolled out thinly on a roller, cut into thin strips, and dried by a machine, while “hand-rolled somen” is made from the same dough that is “twisted” and stretched into thin strips before being dried. The “hand-pulled somen” is made from the same dough that is “twisted” and then stretched thin and dried. The characteristics of hand-rolled somen are that it is thin, smooth, firm, and does not stretch over time. The reason why the texture of “somen” ( mechanical somen ) is said to be inferior to that of hand-pulled somen is largely due to this difference in the production process.

However, not all “hand-rolled” somen are made by hand. Because it is quicker and more suitable for mass production, most hand-rolled somen noodles in Japan are now made by machine. However, there are a few noodle mills in Minami-Shimabara City, Nagasaki Prefecture, that still “hand-roll” their noodles. Mr. Toru Takahashiof Takahashi Kensaku Noodle Manufacturing continues to follow the “hand-stretching” method.

Minami-Shimabara, once home to more than 700 noodle mills

Minamishimabara has a long history of producing a large number of somen noodles as a subcontractor for Miwa Somen (Nara), and at its peak there were over 700 noodle mills in the area. Shimabara’s natural environment contributed to the production of somen noodles. The fertile soil and mineral-rich water nurtured over many years by the activities of Unzen and Fugendake mountains located in the center of the peninsula. The climate is ideal for wheat cultivation, and wheat cultivation has taken root in this region. The natural salt from the Ariake Sea and the sea breeze have made somen production a part of people’s daily lives, and have further nurtured Minami-Shimabara as a town of somen. Utilizing such somen-making techniques, around the 1950s, the town developed somen as one of its main industries. Today, Minamishimabara boasts approximately 30% of the nation’s market share for hand-rolled somen, and continues to spin its traditions as a top-class somen town. It continues to grow.

A Small Noodle Factory with 160 Years of History

Takahashi Kensaku Noodles also boasts a long history, having been established in 1858. Currently, Toru, the sixth generation of the family, his wife, and son are working hard every day to make the noodles.

Upon entering the factory, one is struck by the sight of the noodles being stretched into thin strips, skillfully using a bamboo stick held in both hands. The scene is breathtaking as the bamboo sticks are inserted between the noodles on the tubes and handled to stretch them as if weaving silk threads. The noodles, which were as thick as a pinky finger at first, quickly become as thin as one millimeter.

Stretching the noodles is a race against time. The quality of the noodles changes depending on the weather, humidity, and temperature of the day, so we have to be careful with the dough we prepare each morning. Toru says. The taste of the noodles is determined by the dough, which is prepared before dawn. The ” kneading ” process, in which carefully selected flour is mixed with salt water, is considered a difficult process even with years of experience, as the mixture is slightly changed according to the weather and humidity of the day.

How to make white and firm somen noodles

Once the dough is kneaded, a thin layer of cooking oil is applied to the surface to prevent the dough from sticking to each other, and the dough is twisted and stretched into a noodle shape. Toru uses medium to strong flour with a slightly higher protein content for his somen. When mixed with water and kneaded, this protein is converted into gluten, which gives the noodles their stickiness and elasticity. The higher the amount of gluten, the more yellowish the color of the dough. The process of kneading the dough and stretching it into layers without cutting it, while aging it over and over again, produces a firm, unbreakable somen noodle, even when it is as thin as 1 mm. Strong flour makes the noodles more firm, but the high protein content and the high gluten content tend to make the noodles yellowish. However, Somen noodles look better when they are white like silky threads, don’t they? That is why we are particular about how to make the color white while strengthening the firmness.

The work of stretching the noodles is the only thing that cannot be matched by hand.

Even if the noodles are firm, they are stretched according to the climate of the day, so they often break due to temperature changes, or the color does not turn out as white as expected. He says, “I’ve been doing this for 45 years, and there are very few days when I get it right. This is the very reason why Toru insists on hand-pulling the dough. I want to leave the kneading of the dough, which can be done better by machines, to the machines,” he says. But in the stretching process, I have to adjust the amount of force I use while watching for changes in the dough. As time goes by, the noodles dry out and become saggy, so they tend to break easily. This stretching process cannot be done by hand, ” says Toru. Repeatedly stretching and binding the dough allows the gluten to pass through to the center of the noodle, resulting in a smooth, smooth texture that cannot be experienced with ordinary somen noodles, a unique firmness, and the indescribable texture that is difficult to break even after boiling.

People who have tried Takahashi Kensaku Noodles’ somen noodles often ask, “Why is it so delicious even though it is made from the same ingredients? Once a customer is attached to a product, he or she stays with it for many years. Once a customer is hooked, he or she will continue to seek out Toru’s somen for many years to come. I think the difference in taste and texture comes from the fact that the noodles are hand-stretched,” he says. I feel that the customers buy my somen because of the fact that I stretch them by hand. Since we are not a machine, there is a limit to how much we can make. Even so, when customers say, “Takahashi-san’s somen is the best,” it makes me feel happy that I have stuck to hand-rolled somen,” he says with a smile.

Bringing Back the Everyday Eating of Boiled Dried Noodles

Recently, the number of people who do not have the custom of boiling dried noodles is increasing. Somen, once a signature product for mid-year and year-end gifts, has seen a decline in demand as the market has shrunk in size in recent years. In addition, the shift to nuclear families and the increase in dual-earner households are encouraging ” short-cooking,” which requires less time and effort to prepare. Rather than boiling dried noodles, cup noodles that can be finished simply by pouring hot water into a cup or frozen noodles that can be heated in a microwave oven are predominant. That kind of scene has been reduced. Such scenes have decreased,” Toru muses.

A Product of Changing Lifestyles

However, the change in lifestyles seems to be bringing unexpected changes to this situation. With more people teleworking and spending more time at home, sales of dried noodles, which are easy to stock, are on the rise. Dried noodles such as somen and pasta, which are easy to season and can be rearranged for enjoyment, are also increasing in popularity due to their satisfying and healthy qualities. At Takahashi Kensaku Noodles, chanpon, udon, ramen, cold Chinese noodles, and other hand-pulled dried noodles are also popular. I want people to know the taste of somen and other dried noodles because they are simple and tasty,” says Tetsusan. I hope you will enjoy the taste,” says Toru. Fold the noodles in half and put them directly into miso soup that has been slightly diluted. Even simple condiments such as green onions are tasty enough, and there are many ways to enjoy them from summer to winter,” he said.

Somen as white as a waterfall

Minamishimabara’s hand-pulled somen used to be a thriving cottage industry. The family is the smallest unit of people in Minamishimabara, and the tradition of making each type of somen has been passed down from generation to generation and continues to this day.

I think it is good that there are so many different types of noodle makers. I think it is good that there are so many different kinds of noodle makers. But at the moment, I don’t need a machine. My son, who makes somen noodles with me, says, ‘I like the way things are now. I don’t mind if at least one such somen shop remains,” says Toru, narrowing his eyes.

The name of their signature product, Shirataki, is derived from their predecessor’s wish to “make somen noodles as white and straight as a waterfall. Toru, who has inherited these ideas, is also looking straight ahead. It takes a lot of time and effort. But as long as there are people who say, ‘Takahashi-san’s somen is the best,’ I will continue to make somen with pride in this method.

Our hand-pulled somen noodles are as white as silk and have a fluffy texture, strong firmness, and a smooth, refreshing feel. Inheriting traditional techniques, we work slowly and carefully without being constrained by time, depending on the day’s climate. Please enjoy our traditional hand-pulled somen, one of the few traditional “Shimabara Teben Somen”.

The post Minami-Shimabara Takahashi Ken Somen, a small somen noodle shop that continues to adhere to the true “hand-pulled” style / Minami-Shimabara City, Nagasaki Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Where is the production area of delicious asparagus? Iki City” may not be the first place many people would answer. In fact, however, there is an asparagus farm in Iki, a remote island in Nagasaki Prefecture, that is chosen by many food professionals, including famous restaurants nationwide. We visited Mr. Tamihito Konoi of Konomi Farm and asked him about the characteristics of Iki asparagus and the reasons for its delicious taste.

Iki Island, a production center of delicious asparagus

Nagasaki Prefecture has 971 islands, the largest number in Japan. Located in the northern part of the prefecture, about halfway between Kyushu and Tsushima, is the island of Iki, which appears in Japan’s oldest historical book, Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters). The island has deep ties to mythology and is known as “the island where the gods dwell” with more than 150 shrines scattered throughout the island, making it a popular power spot with its pristine nature. Fishing and rice cultivation have thrived on the island since ancient times, thanks to its mild climate, rich sea, and fertile land, but the agricultural product that has been attracting attention in recent years is undoubtedly asparagus.

Why is Iki’s asparagus so delicious?

At the peak of the asparagus harvest, edible stalks sprout one after another around a single plant, growing 10 to 15 cm in 24 hours. To support their vigorous life force, they require large amounts of fertilizer and water, which is why they are also known as the “pigs of the field. In other words, “land with strength” is essential for high-quality asparagus, and Iki Island, with its fertile soil and abundant groundwater, is perfectly suited for growing asparagus. In recent years, various efforts have been made on the island as a whole to make asparagus a core crop, and its reputation is increasing.

The “Iki City Asparagus Project” undertaken by the entire island

One thing that is indispensable when talking about the soil of Iki is the existence of “Iki beef,” which is also known as “fantastic Wagyu beef. Iki Island, which is also famous as a production center of high-grade Wagyu calves, has many breeding and fattening farmers. The compost obtained from these farms is fully decomposed and fermented to make ” fully matured compost,” which is blended with basalt soil most suitable for vegetable cultivation, resulting in the growth of high-quality asparagus. The fact that all of the 70 or so asparagus farmers in Iki City have been certified as “Eco Farmers,” producers who practice environmentally friendly agriculture, and that they have adopted smart agriculture such as an automatic irrigation system using loT sensors are also major reasons for their brand strength. These steady efforts, accumulation of data and know-how, and incorporation of new technology have further improved the quality and reputation of Iki-produced asparagus, which also won the Japan Agricultural Grand Prize in 2011.

Konomi Farm, a healthy environmentally friendly farm

I visited Konomi Farm at the end of April. In a plastic greenhouse the size of about 12 tennis courts located along Route 382 in the center of the island, asparagus trees about 2 meters tall were neatly lined up, with small, pretty yellow flowers blooming. Mr. Tamihito Konomi, the second generation asparagus grower, welcomed us, pointing to the stalks peeking out from the sides of the plants and saying, “It is spring asparagus that we are harvesting now. His bright red work clothes, which he says he started wearing to accentuate the vivid green of the asparagus, and his smile are dazzling.

History of Konomi Farm

The Xuhui family, which used to be rice farmers, started asparagus cultivation in 1997, when Tamihito’s father, Seihito, took over the farm. Asparagus can be harvested with a pair of scissors without the need for large machinery such as rice transplanters or combine harvesters, and furthermore, it provides a daily income during the season. On the other hand, rice farmers harvest once a year. In light of the bitter experience of being hit by typhoons and other wind and flood damage many times in the past, which resulted in reduced harvests and poor quality, the farmers decided that it would be risky to make a living only from rice. The momentum of a government project that had just started at the time, to make asparagus the core crop of Iki Island, also encouraged him to steer his business as an asparagus farmer while growing rice. Later, he and his fellow farmers in Iki were certified as the nation’s first eco-farmers for asparagus, and he has devoted himself to environmentally friendly agriculture. Now, Mr. Tamihito is the second generation to take over the farm.

What is important is soil and water. And human eyes and hands.

During the harvesting season from March to October, asparagus shoots sprout and grow incessantly, and the asparagus farmer kneels down and carefully cuts them one by one with scissors. Harvesting is all done by hand, and it’s physical work that takes a toll on the body because there are no breaks during the seven-month period. I am overwhelmed by the vitality of the asparagus, which grows from short in the morning until it is ready to be harvested by noon. If weeds grow, he pulls them out by hand, and for pest control, he sets up pheromone traps that do not use chemicals. He also makes it a daily routine to walk around the farm to check the growth of the plants and the condition of the soil. If the surface of the soil is dry to the touch, he covers it with matured compost made from Iki beef. If there is not enough water, even just a little, the plants lose their vigor. At our farm, we give them plenty of groundwater that tastes good even for human consumption,” smiles Mr. Xu Hi. The expression on his face conveys the care he takes for his asparagus.

Winter maintenance is also an important job. Asparagus stops growing when the temperature drops and goes into a dormant state. In spring, when the temperature rises above 20 degrees Celsius, the asparagus wakes up from its sleep and begins to grow young stalks. When the harvest season is over and the green leaves die, the trees are cut down from the base, the farm is disinfected, and compost is added, allowing the nourished plants to rest until the next spring. Asparagus is a vegetable that cannot be harvested for three years after planting, but continues to sprout vigorously for the next 10 to 20 years. Management during the dormant period has a great impact on the quality of subsequent years.

Steady Expansion of Sales Channels

Currently, asparagus produced at Konomi Farm is used at many famous hotels and restaurants in central Tokyo and elsewhere. What Mr. Xu did to expand sales channels is quite simple. I started by visiting restaurants and chefs directly with my own feet and having them actually try the asparagus,” he said. He once traveled all the way from Iki Island to a market in Kamakura, Kanagawa Prefecture, where chefs go to buy asparagus to sell to a two-star Michelin restaurant in Ginza, Tokyo, that wanted to use Konomi Farm’s asparagus. The taste, endorsed by top food professionals, was introduced from chef to chef, and now the asparagus is well-known among those in the know. His steady efforts have borne fruit.

Delicious raw asparagus

The asparagus produced at Konomi Farm has a refreshing sweetness and is juicy to the bite. When eaten raw, the supple skin pops open and the crispy texture is accompanied by a gentle sweetness and aroma. When cooked, the taste becomes richer and the aroma more pronounced.

The season is twice a year, in spring and summer.

The spring shoots that sprout first are called “spring asparagus” and the summer shoots that emerge after the plants have rested are called “summer asparagus. While there is no major difference in taste or appearance, “I would venture to say that spring asparagus, which grows with nutrients stored during the winter, has a strong sweet aroma like young corn, while summer asparagus, which emerges in late May to early June, is bright pastel green and has a more tender texture,” says Xu Hi. When we harvest them every day, we can clearly see the moment when they change from spring buds to summer buds. It’s just a small difference,” he says. The fact that he is able to feel the minute changes on his skin is due to the fact that he has been working with his eyes and hands for seven months without a break.

Popular asparagus dishes at the Xuhui family’s table

The asparagus farmer’s recommended recipe is a bold yet simple “lightly grilled asparagus. Place the whole asparagus on a preheated grill over high heat for 3 minutes, and grill until the surface is charred. Sprinkle with salt to taste and you are done. The umami flavor is concentrated, and the fragrance of the surface fills the mouth.

Mr. Xuhi has some advice for those who are looking to purchase. Freshness is essential for “sprouted” vegetables such as asparagus. Check the cut end first, and choose one that is round and clear. Good shaped leaves (triangular leaves attached to the stem) are a sign that they have grown well. After purchasing, be sure to store them upright. If you store them lying down, they will become stringy and lose their flavor. If you wrap them in newspaper, secure them with rubber bands, and store them in the refrigerator, you can enjoy them for up to a week. Use this as a reference when shopping at the supermarket.

To produce more delicious asparagus

Mr. Xu is pursuing “a gentle flavor with no bitterness. He mixes enzymes with fully ripe compost to achieve a more supple texture, and repeats trial and error every day. He is constantly experimenting with new methods, such as mixing ripe compost with enzymes to achieve a more supple texture. I want to reduce the area of my land so that I can do even more work. I want to watch the growth with my own eyes and produce even higher quality asparagus. At the same time, he aims to expand sales channels to the Asian market, taking advantage of Iki Island’s image and geographical advantage. In this day and age, fish from Kyushu landed in the morning is served at restaurants in Hong Kong and Shanghai by noon. Asparagus, which requires freshness, can be shipped through the same route. From Iki, the island where the gods dwell, to the mainland and the world. Mr. Xuhi’s challenge continues.

The post Delicious raw asparagus grown healthily by the water, wind, soil, and sun of Iki Island, Nagasaki Prefecture / Iki City, Nagasaki Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Iki Island is known for Iki Shochu, Japan’s first geographical indication recognized by the World Trade Organization. Rice has long been grown on this rich land, and there were many sake breweries, but as time went by, the number of sake breweries declined, and in 1990, they finally disappeared from the island. Twenty-eight years later, however, the Shigeke Sake Brewery revived sake production on Iki Island. We visited Omoya Shuzo, the only sake brewery on Iki Island, to hear how it came to be.

Iki Island, the birthplace of barley shochu

Iki shochu” is recognized as a geographical indication by the World Trade Organization. Like “Bordeaux” and “Champagne” for wine, and “Scotch” and “Bourbon” for whiskey, only those shochu products that meet the criteria for region and production method can use the designation of origin, making it one of the most internationally protected and guaranteed shochu brands in Japan. The history of Iki shochu is long, and it is said that around the 16th century, the production of barley shochu using distilling techniques from the continent began on Iki Island.

Geographical Conditions and Fertile Land Suitable for Sake Brewing

Located roughly halfway between Kyushu and Tsushima, off the coast of the Genkai Sea, Iki Island is also known as “the island where the gods dwell,” as there are more than 150 shrines on the island. In the past, Iki flourished as a relay point for the spread of continental civilization and culture to Japan via China and the Korean Peninsula, and in the Chinese history book “Wei Zhi Wajinden” Iki appears in the 3rd century under the name “Iki Kuni” (一支国). In Japan’s oldest historical book, Kojiki (Record of Ancient Matters), it is written that Iki played the role of a transportation route connecting heaven and earth. Sake is an integral part of Shinto rituals, and Iki Island’s geological features have supported the production of sake. 60 km in circumference, the island is small enough that you can drive around it in two hours, and has the second largest granary in Nagasaki Prefecture, with plenty of high-quality groundwater. It is said that the reason Iki has an abundance of fresh water, which is rare for an island, is because the rain refined over many years in the basalt layer, the foundation of the island, is stored in a huge underground water vein. The fertile land, abundant water, and mild climate have developed an agricultural culture, which, combined with the culture created by the geographical conditions, has fostered sake brewing on the Island of the Gods.

Why was “barley shochu” born on Iki?

In the 16th century, when distilling technology was introduced from the continent, Iki was the domain of the Hirado Matsuura clan. The fertile land yielded a large amount of rice, but most of it had to be paid as tribute, and the islanders’ staple food was barley. People brewed their own doburoku with the surplus barley, and it was here that the new technology from the continent was introduced and became the origin of “Iki shochu.

What are the characteristics of Iki Shochu?

It must be made with rice malt, the ratio of rice malt to barley must be 1:2, and it must be brewed with local water, distilled on the island, and packed in containers. If these conditions are not met, it is not recognized as “Iki shochu. When one thinks of barley shochu, the Oita barley shochu, which led the second shochu boom, may be the first thing that comes to mind, but Oita barley shochu is made from barley and barley malt. Iki shochu, on the other hand, is made from barley, rice malt, and groundwater from Iki Island. Currently, seven shochu breweries on the island are pursuing their own individuality and taste while making world-class Iki shochu.

Shigeke Shuzo Yokoyama Brewery, a sake brewery on the island of shochu

In 1902, there were 35 shochu breweries and 17 sake breweries on Iki Island, and sake production was thriving. However, 28 years later, the Shigeke Brewery revived sake brewing on Iki Island, and as of 2024, the company is beginning a new chapter in its history as a sake brewery that produces two national brands, with Yuzo Yokoyama, the president of the shochu brewery, and Taizo Yokoyama, Yuzo’s brother and managing director, serving as toji (chief brewer) for the sake brewery.

History of Shigeya Brewery

In 1924, Yuzo and Taizo’s great-grandfather, Kyozo Yokoyama, built a sake and shochu brewery, and the history of the Shigeya Brewery began. Since there were no refrigeration facilities in those days, the brewery was a dual-use sake and shochu brewery, making sake in the winter, which required delicate temperature control, and using the rest of the year for shochu production. The brewery produced sake “Fujitsuru” and Iki shochu “Sesshu,” both of which were well-loved on the island, but a turning point came during the reign of Shozo, the third generation of the family. Several major sake breweries entered the island’s sales market, and sake sales gradually began to slow. This, combined with the retirement of the aging toji (master brewer), finally led to the abandonment of sake production in 1990. Shigeke Shuzo was the last sake brewery to continue making sake on Iki Island. This meant that the sake culture on Iki Island had completely ceased to exist.

Taizo says, “When I saw my father, who was determined to have sake for dinner, drinking sake that did not come from his own brewery every night, I always felt that he must have had something on his mind. For a time, he was devoted to making shochu, but as he met breweries from all over Japan and sake dealers who were familiar with sake, his desire to revive sake production in Iki grew stronger. In the midst of all this, Mr. Yoshifumi Sumikawa, president of Sumikawa Sake Brewery in Yamaguchi Prefecture, known for its “Toyo Bijin” brand of sake, agreed to teach me how to make sake, and for five years from 2013, I traveled to many sake breweries across Japan with which I had close ties while undergoing a rigorous apprenticeship. He said, “I was able to revive sake brewing in Iki thanks to the support of my colleagues who agreed with my ideas. I have nothing but gratitude. Everything I have learned is being applied to the new brewery.

To the Yokoyama Brewery, Shigeke Shuzo’s sake brewery

Southeast of Iki Island. Passing through Fukae Tabaru, the second largest plain in Nagasaki Prefecture, I visited the Shigeke Sake Brewery’s sake brewery. Rice and wheat swaying in the wind in the beautiful rice paddies spread out all around. At the entrance to the sake brewery, a water god is enshrined, and the sweet aroma of steaming rice wafted through the air.

We chose this location for the sake brewery because we found the ideal water,” Taizo said. He spent five years researching more than 20 water sources on the island to find the best water for brewing sake, and finally arrived at this source. The area used to be a place where asparagus was cultivated. We found that there was an abundant supply of high-quality soft water.

We were guided through the brewery, which is full of attention to detail. I visited the brewery at the end of April, just as the brewing of this year’s sake was finishing. In the brewery, young people who had come from Fukushima and Hyogo prefectures to train at the brewery were working quickly and efficiently. The temperature in the brewery is kept at a constant 5 degrees Celsius, which is suitable for the mash, and the fermentation process is adjusted through detailed temperature control. The brewery is designed to be compact, incorporating the latest technology and taking into consideration the size of the tanks and the line of flow,” he said.

The koji room is designed with a low ceiling to increase the airtightness. We use four types of koji mold, including “Aroma,” which produces a crisp sweetness. For four months before we started the brewery, we continued to steam and wash the brewing tools indoors to prevent off-flavor from the new brewing equipment from sticking to the rice and koji,” he said. The brewery is thoroughly managed, and each process is closely analyzed in order to achieve the ideal sake quality.

Iki water, Iki rice, the skill and passion of the master brewer, and the state-of-the-art facilities all contribute to the creation of Iki sake, which bears the name of the Shigeya Brewery’s master brewer, ” Yokoyama/Yokoyama. Representative examples are “Yokoyama Goju WHITE,” “Yokoyama SILVER7 Nama,” and “Yokoyama SILVER1814 Hi-iri.

Junmai Daiginjo

Junmai Daiginjos are labeled Gold, White, and Black. The representative work “Yokoyama Goju WHITE” has a muscat aroma and juicy sweetness that spreads out, and is truly a gorgeous first cup. It is recommended to be served chilled in a wine glass.

Junmai Ginjo

The number on the label is the number of the yeast used. The name of the product is a product of the Shigeya Shuzo brewery, which takes pride in its history and technology as a shochu brewer, and is able to pinpoint the flavor by understanding the characteristics of each type. Taizo-san refers to “YOKOYAMA” as “YOKOYAMA SILVER7 Nama,” which has a gentle, mild sweetness, a fruity taste, and a very light bitterness. On the other hand, the “YOKOYAMA Junmai Ginjo SILVER Super Spicy 7 Hiiri” is a crisp, refreshing sake that is perfect for a mealtime drink. The tropical label of the “Summer Junmai Gin Yokoyama” has a refreshing aroma like pineapple. It is best served chilled.

Shigeke Shuzo’s shochu brewed in a small warehouse in a port town

We visited Shigeke Shuzo’s shochu brewery in a port town 3 km away from the sake brewery. The smallest shochu warehouse in Iki, with distillers and tanks of various types, old and new, lined up on the different levels of the ceiling, and the koji room and storage room organized in an efficient line of flow. It is a wooden building from the Taisho era. When the previous generation bought it, it was not a shochu cellar, so we installed a distillation machine to match the height of the roof and converted it into a shochu cellar,” Yuzo says. It was also used as a residence before, and my younger brother and I spent our high school years here. Even as children, we always smelled sake in our daily lives,” he smiles. Since the taste of shochu varies depending on the shape, material, and distillation method of the distillation equipment, Shigeke Brewery also customizes its distillation equipment with the latest technology, taking into consideration the structure of the brewery and the flavor it aims to produce. The distillation kiln is used to boil the mash, and the steam is cooled to produce the raw shochu liquor. This method is used in the production of whiskey. By preserving tradition while adopting new techniques, the Shigeke Brewery produces unique shochu.

Shigeke Shuzo’s Shochu and Representative Works

Shigeke Shuzo’s representative works include “Sesshu,” a longtime seller since the company’s founding, and “Chingu,” which means “great friend” in the Iki dialect. Shigeke Shuzo’s shochu is characterized by a lineup that can be enjoyed in a variety of ways, both in the mouth and in the way it is drunk.

The alcohol content is mainly 25 and 20 degrees, but 20 degrees is most commonly consumed on Iki Island. When asked why, he replied, “In Iki, shochu is always served at town meetings and other gatherings. I imagine that the reason for this is to save people the trouble of bringing water to the venue. For example, there is a difference in the mildness of 25° shochu and 20° shochu between drinking shochu that is originally watered at 20° and drinking a product that is watered at 20°. Perhaps the islanders have experienced this, which is why they choose 20° from the beginning,” says Yuzo. People gather together, and they are always giving and receiving. This is an episode unique to the island where Iki shochu culture is deeply rooted.

Shigeya Shuzo is not only engaged in traditional shochu production, but also in product development with new customers in mind. OMOYA GIN,” based on Iki barley shochu, is a craft gin that was created after more than 70 trials in cooperation with a university laboratory. Add four times the amount of strongly carbonated water to the gin and drink it, and you will enjoy the gorgeous aroma of juniper berries and Iki yuzu.

Sesshu,” the best-selling gin on the island

Yukishu” is another name for Iki Island. It is a beautiful name given to the pure white sandy beach made of fine shells, which an Edo period (1603-1867) poet wrote in a poem, “It looks just like snow. It has been made since the establishment of the company and is the best-selling product on the island. It was awarded the Director’s Cup of the Fukuoka Regional Taxation Bureau in 1989 and 1991.

A lineup rich in individuality “Chingu

A wide variety of variations are available. Based on one-third Iki rice and two-thirds barley, the brewery combines white koji, black koji, atmospheric distillation, and reduced-pressure distillation to give each a unique flavor. For example, “Chingu Black Koji Brewing” is a bottle in which the aroma and strength of Rokujo barley and black malted barley are enhanced by normal-pressure distillation. Chingu Natsu Joujyo” has an alcohol content of 19%. It is characterized by its cool and refreshing taste, which can be enjoyed when mixed with carbonated water.

Koshizo,” named after the founder and the origin of the Shigeke Brewery

The shochu is made from Iki-produced Koshihikari rice and Iki-produced barley “Nishinohoshi,” brewed in a kettle and distilled under normal pressure, then aged for a long time. It is a bottle that expresses the traditional Iki shochu, and can be said to be the starting point of the Shigeya Shuzo brewery.

The “first cup” of sake that makes you want to drink more cups.

Four years have passed since the birth of the new brewery. Mr. Taizo always goes back to the basics of sake brewing, “1 koji, 2 moto, and 3 zukuri,” and pours his heart and soul into bringing out the individuality and performance of the yeast every day. First of all, I want people to know about Iki Island. I would be happy if more people become interested in the island because of the wonderful nature and culture that nurtures sake. What we are aiming for is the “first cup” of sake, which is aromatic, light, and sharp. Sake brewed with the blessings of Iki using the latest technology will be the toast of the world until the day it becomes the toast of the world. The passion of the toji will spread the sake born on Iki Island to the world.

The post Sake Revived on Iki Island – Shochu and Sake, Two National Sake Breweries / Iki City, Nagasaki Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.