Shiga Prefecture is said to be the birthplace of Japanese tea. The origin of Japanese tea is said to date back to 1200 years ago, in the early Heian period, when Saicho, the founder of the Tendai sect of Buddhism, brought back seeds from Tang China and planted them at the foot of Mount Hiei. We visited Mr. Haruki Fujimura, representative director of “Greentea Tsuchiyama,” a tea farmers’ cooperative in Shiga Prefecture, which is working to pass the baton of the tea industry to the future.

Tea production area developed in the Edo period (1603-1867)

Tsuchiyama-cho, located in the southeastern part of Shiga Prefecture, boasts the largest tea production and cultivation area in the prefecture. 805, Saicho, who returned from Tang Dynasty China, introduced tea cultivation to Omi Province, which is now Shiga Prefecture, and tea production also began in Tsuchiyama. Since Tsuchiyama was an inn town on the Tokaido Highway, tea was sold to people passing by, and its production expanded dramatically in the Edo period ( 1603-1867). At its peak, Tsuchiyama used the same tea leaves as green tea to make black tea and export it overseas, but this became difficult after World War II began, and the region gained a foothold as a producer specializing in green tea.

Tea that can be enjoyed from the second brewing

There are several traditional tea production areas in Shiga Prefecture, such as Asamiya and Masadokoro, but Tsuchiyama is characterized by rolling hills with long hours of sunlight, rich underground water from the Suzuka mountain range, and a temperature difference between day and night. This makes it possible to grow long, thick tea leaves, which have a strong flavor and aroma, and are said to be delicious even after the second or third brewing. Characterized by its elegant, mild, and deep flavor, it has long been a specialty of Shiga Prefecture.

Producing “Kabusecha” with a strong flavor

Another characteristic of Tsuchiyama is that it is known as a famous producer of “Kabusecha” tea. Kabusecha is a type of tea in which tea leaves are covered with a cloth or other covering before plucking to suppress the production of catechins and enhance the flavor and sweetness of the tea. The tea leaves that have been covered for a longer period of time are called “gyokuro,” and those that have been dried without being rubbed are called “tencha. Tencha is ground into a powder using a millstone, and this powder is called matcha, which is used in the tea ceremony.

Kabusecha production is thriving in Tsuchiyama, and has a solid track record, winning first place in Japan in the kabusecha category of the National Tea Fair.

Healing Tea from Tsuchiyama to the World

Haruki Fujimura is the representative director of “Green Tea Tsuchiyama,” an agricultural cooperative that produces tea with the concept of “bringing healing tea to the world. He has been in the tea industry since he was 22 years old, and has been in the business for 30 years this year. He wanted to acquire knowledge and skills beyond just making tea, so he became a certified Japanese tea instructor, also known as a “tea sommelier,” and is also involved in training young people at an agricultural university as an agricultural instructor.

In Tsuchiyama, many growers have traditionally produced Kabusecha, but about five years ago, we started producing about two thirds of our tea from Tencha, which is used to make Matcha. Japanese matcha has been booming overseas for the past few years, and the need for tencha will increase even more in the future.

Although the region as a whole has been increasing the percentage of its tea production from tencha processing every year, the price of tea itself has been declining in recent years, and producers are now facing a difficult situation.

From individual competition to regional cooperation in tea production

In order to overcome the difficult situation surrounding tea farmers, various reforms are being implemented in Tsuchiyama. One of these reforms is the establishment of an agricultural cooperative, Greentea Tsuchiyama.

One of the features of our company is that each member of the corporation is a farmer, but we all share the same fields and factories. In tea production areas, even though the factory is shared, it is rare to find an organization in which everyone shares the same fields. There is no such thing as an individual farm, but rather a system in which everyone works together to increase sales,” says Mr. Tsuchiyama.

Green Tea Tsuchiyama was originally established by Fujimura’s father in cooperation with five tea farmers.

At the time, when most tea farms were privately owned, many farmers were trying to ship their products as quickly as possible in a small area, which caused shipping times to overlap. To prevent this, Greentea Tsuchiyama was established to promote the joint purchase of fertilizers and the joint use of factories. Today, many young farmers belong to the company, and it has grown to the point where it produces about one-tenth of all tea produced in Shiga Prefecture.

Overcoming the adversity of being called a “cheap production area

Green Tea Tsuchiyama handles all aspects of tea production in-house, from cultivation to processing and sales. In 2018, the company built a new factory for tencha, the first in the prefecture, with the aim of producing its own tencha, the raw material for matcha, to boost sales and meet demand for the tea in a wide range of products such as chocolate and confectionery.

The factory is located in the Tsuchiyama area, where frost occurs in early spring, so the early sprouts are damaged by the frost. Tea can only be harvested safely in Tsuchiyama after May, the middle of the season. It has often been said that “Tsuchiyama is an inexpensive production area” because the harvest here begins when harvesting is completed in all production areas in Japan, and the tea can finally be shipped when the price of new tea has dropped completely. So, in order to survive, we need a stronger ground than other production areas,” he says.

Original products that meet the needs of the times and applications

At the same time as establishing a tea production system, the company is also focusing on the development of original products.

KOKUTAN,” with its luxurious black packaging, is a special Kabusecha blending two varieties, a gem that offers the sweetness of “Sae-midori” and the refreshing crispness of “Okumidori”. It is made from the most aromatic and rich tea leaves harvested at Greentea Tsuchiyama.

Other products include Hakuji, a top-grade Kabusecha tea that is mild and recommended for daily use, and Hekiryoku, an extra-grade sencha with a refreshing aroma and moderate astringency.

Developing sweets to enjoy with tea

In an effort to further expand its product lineup, the company has begun developing products other than tea leaves, including “Matcha Financier” and “Roasted Tea x Benifuuki Financier,” the first processed foods made with the company’s own tea, which went on sale in 2020. We thought, “Why not have confections that are not limited to tea leaves alone? The development of confections that go well with tea has been well received by employees and customers alike. Mr. Fujimura’s goal is to increase the number of original products using tea, such as chocolates and cookies, and eventually sell them in his own stores.

Bringing the potential of tea to the future through the efforts of the entire tea-producing region.

In 2022, a team of tea farmers, tea artisans, and agricultural cooperatives will launch a new hojicha brand called “Tsuchiyama Overnight Hoji. This initiative was started to make the name “Tsuchiyama” widely known. The tea leaves grown with great care in Tsuchiyama-cho are left to wilt naturally overnight (12 hours or more) to lose water, which gives the tea a flowery aroma. When the tea leaves are roasted, the sweet aroma of Taiwanese tea is followed by a savory aroma unique to hojicha, making it a tea that goes well with both Japanese and Western-style teas and meals. The tea is named “Overnight Hoji,” and is sold in a variety of variations by several businesses participating in this initiative.

I consider tea to be a luxury item, just like alcohol. In the past, people thought it was enough to just make tea as it is and sell it, but now I feel that the ideal way for a production center is to make tea that they can truly enjoy through trial and error, and then promote it. How many people can we create who will appreciate the taste of Tsuchiyama’s tea? That is what is necessary to continue tea production. With an eye on the future of tea, they are expanding beyond the boundaries of producers and companies. We look forward to the new challenges ahead for Mr. Fujimura and his team.

The post Green Tea Tsuchiyama” to explore the future and possibilities of tea in Omi, the birthplace of Japanese tea / Koka City, Shiga Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

While Fushimi in Kyoto and Nada in Kobe are the most famous sake breweries in the Kansai region, Shiga Prefecture is also home to a large number of sake breweries that produce highly distinctive yet high quality sake. One brewery in particular that has a strong presence in the hearts of sake fans is Mifuku Shuzo, located in Minakuchi, a post town on the 53rd leg of the Tokaido Highway.

Shiga, the Undiscovered Sake Kingdom

Shiga Prefecture is actually a “sake kingdom” for those in the know.

Surrounded by high mountains and blessed with an abundance of underground water, the prefecture is also the home of Omi rice, a brand-name rice. The region is blessed with clean water and delicious rice, both of which are necessary for sake brewing.

Another important point is that the area has long been a strategic location for transportation. Sake was needed to entertain travelers along the Tokaido, Nakasendo, Wakasa Kaido, and other major highways in the prefecture. For this reason, there are many breweries with long histories.

Today, about 30 sake breweries in Shiga Prefecture are scattered around Lake Biwa, and each brewery produces a different type of sake. Every sake brewery in Shiga Prefecture has a strong individuality. The fact that Lake Biwa is located in the center of the prefecture makes it difficult for breweries to come and go between each other, and this may be the result of their unique development,” says Noriyuki Fujii, the fourth president of Mitomiku Shuzo.

A brewery along the Tokaido Highway for 105 years

Among Shiga’s unique sake breweries, one that stands out for its aggressive approach to sake brewing is Mitomiku Shuzo.

The company was founded in 1917. The founder, who was born the third son of the Fujii family of sake breweries in Aisho-cho, located on the east side of Lake Biwa, branched out and established a brewery along the Tokaido Highway in Minakuchi-cho, Koka City, Shiga Prefecture.

As the word “mizu” in the name implies, Mizuguchi-cho is blessed with delicious water. Sake brewing using subterranean water from the Suzuka Mountains to the east of the town is very active, and five breweries are concentrated in Minakuchi-cho.

In such a town of Mizuguchi, Mitomiku Sake Brewery has continued to produce sake that focuses on the “umami of rice” using sake rice grown by local contract farmers.

Mitomihisa Brewery’s two top breweries, Yamahai brewing and Ginjo brewing

Mitomiku Brewery’s sake is made with water pumped from its own wells and fed by the Yasu River, a first-class river in Shiga Prefecture that originates in the Suzuka mountain range. The soft water, which contains just the right amount of minerals, has a refreshing taste and is not too sticky.

Among the sake brewed with this water, the Yamahai-brewed sake and theGinjo-brewed sake are especially highly acclaimed. These are the two mainstays of the Mitomiku Brewery.

Yamahai-brewing” has been maintained since the brewery’s founding.

Yamahai brewing is a traditional natural brewing method that uses natural lactic acid bacteria living in the brewery to grow the sake mother, which is the foundation of sake.

It takes about three times longer than normal sake brewing and requires delicate temperature control due to the natural process, but it produces a richer, more acidic sake with a fuller, richer flavor with more breadth and depth than ordinary sake. For this reason, Mitomiku Sake Brewery has maintained the tradition of Yamahai brewing since its establishment.

Mitomiku’s “Yamahai” sake has a clear and distinct character, yet is broad in flavor, and many of them are excellent as a mid-meal sake. It is also suitable for heating sake, and has won gold and top gold medals at the National Heated Sake Contest.

Ginjo Brewing,” which has won numerous awards both in Japan and abroad

Another pillar of the Mitomiku Brewery is the ginjo brewing process, which utilizes modern sake brewing techniques.

In contrast to the Yamahai brewing method, which uses naturally occurring lactic acid bacteria to prepare the sake mother, the Ginjo brewing method uses artificial lactic acid to prepare the sake mother, called “Sokusho-moto.

The main advantages of the “Sokusho-moto” method are shorter brewing time and a more gorgeous aroma.

Like Yamahai-brewed sake, Mifuku’s ginjo-brewed sake has a pronounced rice flavor. The fruity and gorgeous ginjo aroma is followed by the sweetness of the rice that spreads in the mouth. The “umami of rice” is expressed in a different way from that of Yamahai-brewed sake.

Its deliciousness has been highly acclaimed at domestic and international competitions, winning gold medals and gold medals at the ” IWC (International Wine Challenge),” the ” London SAKE Challenge,” and the ” Delicious Sake in a Wineglass Award, ” among others. Some Junmai Daiginjo-shu has been selected as a first-class in-flight drink on major airlines’ international flights.

Among these ginjo-shu, Mr. Fujii is particularly attached to ” Sanrensei,” a brand that has become synonymous with Mitomiku Shuzo. The following is the story of its birth.

I want to compete with my own brand.

After graduating from university, Mr. Fujii trained at a sake brewery in Gifu Prefecture before returning to his birthplace, Mitomiku Brewery, in 2005 to work on sake brewing.

As he began to focus on traveling throughout Japan to sell his products, Mr. Fujii gradually came to realize that he wanted to compete with his own brand.

If I am going to go to the trouble, I want to make sake that is different from the traditional “Mitomiku sake. Therefore, he decided to make a ginjo type sake with a crisp and gorgeous flavor, which is the opposite of the full-flavored Yamahai brewing method.

The “three stars” created with young brewers

In 2007, Mr. Fujii and three young brewers created ” Sanrenboshi ” through a process of trial and error. It has now grown to become one of the company’s representative brands and has made the name of Mitomiku Sake Brewery well known throughout the country. Three generations of sake rice, Wataribune Roku, Yamadanishiki, and Ginfubuki, are used to make three types of sake :Junmai Daiginjo-shu made with Wataribune Roku, Junmai Ginjo-shu made with Yamadanishiki, and Junmai Shu made with Ginfubuki. Three makers, three generations of sake rice, three types of sake, and three themes. The name “Triple Star” was chosen to represent the three “3s” in a row, so that the sake would shine like a star. The name “Triple Star” is based on such a wish.

Because of the freshness of the sake, the “Sanrensei” is a limited distribution sake, sold only to specific stores. The method of hi-ire has been tried and tested, and the “Sannrenboshi Junmai Ginjo Yamadanishiki” is cooled rapidly after hi-ire using a plate heater to lock in the freshness of the sake. The brewer says it succeeded in creating a taste “fresher than that of unpasteurized sake.

Extra Edition” boldly tackles test brewing

Sangrensei also has an ” Extra Series, ” in which three types of sake are test-brewed each year under a different theme, such as using sake rice or yeast not normally used in the brewery. The results are used in future sake brewing.

Because of the trial and error involved in the search for the ideal flavor, Sannrenboshi ” took a long time to perfect its taste, ” says Fujii. However, as of 2022, the 15th anniversary of its debut, Mitsuboshi Junmai Sake has grown to the point where Fujii recommends it as ” the first bottle of sake to get to know Mitomiku Brewery.

More “easy-to-drink” sake. The challenge to increase the variety of sake continues.

After creating a brand that has become synonymous with the brewery, Mr. Fujii and his team continue to take on new challenges and increase the variety of their offerings.

In the summer of 2021, “Shippo,” a sake aimed at a new fan base, will make its debut. Shippo Mifuku Sparkling,” a sparkling sake with secondary fermentation in the bottle, has an aroma reminiscent of champagne when the glass is tipped, and a light and pleasant mouthfeel that pops and pops. The label design also makes it easy to approach, making even those who might be intimidated by the word “sake” feel compelled to pick it up.

New Possibilities Discovered with “Kimoto” Sake

In the spring of 2022, “Sannrensei,” a sake made using the “kimoto” method of sake making, will make its debut.

The process of making sake by using natural bacteria is similar to the Yamahai method, but the process of mashing rice and rice malt, which is omitted in the Yamahai method, is added to the process of growing lactic acid bacteria.

After actually doing this, I discovered that sake made using the kamishibashi methodhas both theprofound flavor of yamahai brewing and the clean, gorgeous taste of ginjo-style brewing. A new pillar has been added to the existing “two pillars.

Of course, we will continue to carefully carry on the standards of Mitomiku, including Yamahai sake. At the same time, we will continue to take on new challenges and expand the scope of our business. In this way, I believe the appeal of sake will transcend national borders and reach even more people.

We will continue to be an “open brewery

While continuing to brew more than 20 varieties of sake per year, including experimental brews, Mr. Fujii has also worked to create a brewery that is open to the local community.

In 2014, when he became the fourth president, he opened a direct sales office in the brewery. Once a month, the brewery began sellingseasonal sake, available only at the brewery, directly from the tanksby weight. This is a popular event that attracts fans from within and outside of the prefecture to purchase the special sake that is not normally available.

In September 2021, a part of the sake brewery will be renovated to open a café called “KAGURA. There is no end to the ideas for expanding the base of sake fans.

What will be born next? One cannot help but feel a sense of anticipation for this “star” that shines brightly among the many unique breweries in Shiga Prefecture.

The post A shining star in the unique sake kingdom of Shiga!　Mitomiku Sake Brewery / Koka City, Shiga Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Nakagawa Kazubento, the head of “Kumoi Kiln,” an earthenware pot artist in Shigaraki, has a reputation for creating one-of-a-kind earthenware pots. He has been able to meet the impossible requests of top chefs with his flexible ideas backed up by his experience. Using Shigaraki clay, which has been stored in a stone chamber for decades and has never been seen outside of Shigaraki, he creates the “ultimate earthenware pot” that combines unparalleled durability and delicious taste.

40 years dedicated to earthenware pots

Mr. Nakagawa is one of Japan’s leading earthenware pot makers. He has been making earthenware pots mainly for commercial use at the request of top chefs from all over Japan, including high-class restaurants and hotels. He has been making earthenware pots mainly for commercial use at the request of top chefs from all over Japan, including high-class restaurants and hotels. It is no mean feat to respond to such difficult orders. He has been making earthenware pots for 40 years. In his long journey, he has created a variety of ” ultimate earthenware pots.

Shigaraki is blessed with clay soil.

Unoi Kiln is a long-established kiln located in Shigaraki Town, Koka City, Shiga Prefecture, which is known as a pottery production center. Its history is long, having been founded in Kyoto in 1980. After the war, the kiln was built in the former village of Kumoi in Shigaraki and named “Kumoi Kiln.

Shigaraki was the bottom of Lake Biwa four million years ago. That is why there is abundant clay soil suitable for pottery,” says Nakagawa. Blessed with high-quality clay, Shigaraki has been recognized as one of the six oldest kilns in Japan and a Japanese Heritage site.

Until his father’s generation, Shigaraki was producing pottery such as tea bowls and plates, but in the 1950s, when Mr. Nakagawa took over the business, he began making earthenware pots specifically for commercial use.

Earthenware pots originated from “suppon pots

What prompted Mr. Nakagawa to devote himself to earthenware pots was a request from “Daiichi,” the best suppon restaurant in Japan, located in Kyoto City. Since suppon pots are cooked all at once at a high temperature of 1,600°C, they must be strong enough to withstand the heat. Not only is it strong, but it must also absorb water. Mr. Horii, the owner of the restaurant at the time, told us, “What determines the taste of suppon nabe is 50% the quality of the ingredients and 50% the quality of the earthenware pot. The suppon broth soaks into the pot, and the more you use it, the more the flavor soaks in. That was the kind of earthenware pot that was sought after,” he said.

It took 20 years to reach a satisfactory earthenware pot, but the completed earthenware pot is called “a pot that breathes ” and is highly evaluated from various fields.

Mr. Aoyama, the 18th generation owner of Oichi, says, “Mr. Nakagawa’s earthenware pots are a treasure of Oichi. It is no exaggeration to say that Mr. Nakagawa’s “breathing pots” have supported the famous suppon restaurants.

Custom-made earthenware pots that grow with use

Mr. Nakagawa receives orders from numerous chefs, but no two earthenware pots are alike. Nakagawa showed me around his “pot room,” where some of the pots he has made to date were displayed. There was a yudofu pot in the shape of a colander, a blowfish pot in the shape of a parent and child, an induction steamer, and even an island kitchen made of ceramic. The pots and pans were a variety of colors and shapes, and just looking at them was an exciting and original experience. Nakagawa’s mischievous side can be seen in his unique sense of fun.

The pots and pans are not yet finished when we deliver them to the restaurant. Each restaurant has its own unique characteristics, such as the intensity of the fire and the way the broth soaks into the pot. Therefore, after being used many times, the pot finally grows into an earthenware pot that is unique to that restaurant. It is common for earthenware pots to break after a few years of daily use by professionals. However, Mr. Nakagawa’s earthenware pots usually last four to five years, and some even last more than 10 years. These earthenware pots are both durable enough to grow and beautiful enough to liven up a meal.

Gohan pots” for cooking delicious rice at home

Gohan-nabe” is Nakagawa’s earthenware pot sold as an earthenware pot that can also be used at home. This earthenware pot was developed to cook delicious rice, and is available in sizes ranging from one and a half cups to five cups. The pot ‘s unique glossy color can be carried directly to the dining table and enjoyed for its beauty as a vessel.

The pots are made to order, so there is a three-month wait from order to delivery, but they are a popular product with uninterrupted orders.

Meticulous attention to thickness and shape

The thickness of the pot was carefully considered in order to cook delicious rice. The pot is two to three times thicker than a typical earthenware pot, allowing the rice to heat slowly and bring out the best flavor of the rice. The shape and weight of the lid were also pursued in order to create a small convection current of water in the earthenware pot and cook the rice in a fluffy manner.

Mr. Yoshihiro Murata, the owner of Kikunoi, a long-established ryotei (Japanese-style restaurant) in Kyoto, who uses this earthenware pot, said, “Mr. Nakagawa is a scientist. He calculates the size of the wings of the kettle. Mr. Nakagawa’s earthenware pots are the best for making delicious rice.

Earthenware rice cooking is surprisingly easy.

When used at home, the rice cooks well enough on a cassette stove. There is no need to adjust the heat precisely; all you need to remember is to cook over high heat for 10 minutes, then lower the heat for 10 minutes, and steam for 10 minutes.

Cooking is something to be enjoyed with all five senses. I want people to enjoy the steam and the sound of the rice steaming and spilling over,” says Nakagawa. When you cook rice on the table, the delicious smell will double your appetite.

The core of earthenware pots lies in the clay.

Earthenware pots produce flavorful dishes with a warm feel and excellent water absorbency that metal pots do not have. All of this is due to the clay used as the raw material.

Clay comes from the natural world. When I found good soil, I bought enough for a lifetime,” he says. The soil Mr. Nakagawa selects is stored in a stone chamber. Because extreme temperature differences can cause the soil to lose moisture, the soil is laid down in the stone chamber to ensure consistency and uniformity of density.

Clay so coarse that fingerprints disappear and the entire surface is glazed.

The molding of the earthenware pots is not a simple process. The clay is so coarse that it absorbs water, and the potter wears gloves when turning the spinning wheel. When the shaping process begins, the unique sound of the clay being sharpened is heard. Many potters rely on their fingertips to shape their work, but the sight of a potter spinning a potter’s wheel with his or her hands on the wheel is a rare occurrence.

Another of Nakagawa’s specialties is covering the entire surface of the pot with glaze, which gives it a beautiful sheen and color. The glaze extends all the way to the bottom of the pot, which enhances not only the beauty but also the durability of the pot.

Earthenware is a science. Careful calculations are also necessary.

The kiln is still in use, but the earthenware pots are fired in a state-of-the-art computer-controlled electric kiln that can control the temperature in 0.5-degree increments and fire the pots at temperatures of 1,200 degrees Celsius or higher.

Pottery doesn’t lie, so if you take shortcuts, it will show in your work,” he says. The most enjoyable part of the process is waiting for the finished pieces to be fired and seeing how they respond to my seriousness.

In this way, the earthenware pots are completed after three months of work.

Working with apprentices in a workshop where nature and resources are recycled

The gallery and workshop designed by Mr. Nakagawa has the elegant appearance of a luxury ryokan (Japanese inn). The building is a hybrid structure of RC and wood, with wood grown in Shigaraki, clay walls, bamboo, and rope used for the interior. This is because natural materials play a role in controlling temperature and humidity, which are indispensable for earthenware pot making. Exhaust heat from the kiln is used for floor heating. The company also uses solar power generation, aiming for zero CO2 emissions in the manufacturing process. Without the power of nature, my work would not be possible. I have created an environment that is comfortable for both people and the earth.

In such a workshop, about 10 apprentices are currently sharing the work. Some of them have over 23 years of training. They work hard to create earthenware pots as a team while engaging in friendly competition.

Spreading Wings to the World with Japanese Cuisine

In 2013, Japanese food was registered as a UNESCO World Intangible Cultural Heritage. With this, Japanese food ingredients and cooking techniques, as well as cooking utensils, are expected to attract worldwide attention. Just as Japanese food has been recognized around the world, Mr. Nakagawa’s earthenware pots may be recognized around the world, and new orders may come in for them.

It would be great to see Japan’s wonderful technology become known throughout the world,” Nakagawa said. For this to happen, Japanese people must learn more about Japanese culture and carefully pass it on to the next generation.

Nakagawa-san will continue to serve as the best “black boy” in the future.

Many chefs have praised Mr. Nakagawa’s earthenware pots, saying that their cooking would not be complete without them. He is also said to be a “black son” of cooking. Japanese cuisine is very deep, so I will continue to strive to create earthenware pots that bring out the best of each dish,” he says, remaining humble.

As a master chef’s mastermind, he will continue to take on the challenge of becoming the mastermind of Japanese cuisine that will spread its wings to the world.

The post The “ultimate earthenware pot” by Shigaraki potter Nakagawa Ippen Pottery, highly praised by top chefs / Koka City, Shiga Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.