Kazuaki Furukawa, the fourth generation owner of Furukawa FARM, has made the decision to switch from chemical fertilizers to organic fertilizers and to stop using herbicides through a cultivation method called “weed cultivation. He has been able to improve the taste of his pears while reducing the burden on the environment. He focused his attention on the rare “Natsuhikari” variety, which won a prize at a contest, and now he and his wife, the fifth generation, are striving to create fans of the farm.

Cultivating soil with an eye on eating quality

In Chiba Prefecture, which regularly ranks as Japan’s largest producer of pears, the northwestern part of the prefecture is the most active pear-growing area. The history of pear cultivation dates back to the Edo period, when pear cultivation in Chiba Prefecture began in present-day Ichikawa City. The northwestern part of the prefecture still accounts for about half of the prefecture’s pear production, thanks to the Kanto loam soil, which is suitable for pear cultivation, and its proximity to the huge consumption center of Tokyo. Kamagaya City is one of the major pear production areas.

In Kamagaya, many pear orchards have direct sales stands on their premises, and from the beginning of August through early autumn, banners selling pears directly are flown along the main roads and in other places. Pear orchards are an indispensable souvenir of the Bon Festival, and many also sell pears for gift-giving. The sight of pears being sold with tastings by the side of the work area is a typical summer scene.

Furukawa FARM runs a pear orchard in Kamagaya City.

Producing pears that you can decide the price yourself

Furukawa FARM began as a vegetable farm in the Meiji era (1868-1912) and started growing pears in the 1950s. Kazuaki Furukawa, who was in his 20s at the time, took over the family business around 1990, but he did not want to “inherit what his parents had done,” so he participated in an agricultural training program in the United States for about two years before starting farming. After returning to Japan, he decided to start working toward the “pear orchard he wanted to create.

At the time, Mr. Furukawa’s biggest problem was “the current situation of growing pears for which he could not decide the price. When I came back to Japan, my family was still growing vegetables, and during the summer when vegetables were not available, I was growing pears to make up for it. So we couldn’t take care of the pears, and we couldn’t produce good pears, so we had no choice but to sell them at the market. I always wanted to change the situation where pears were shipped at a low price every day and increase the ratio of direct sales,” he says.

To improve the quality of his pears and increase his profit margin, Mr. Furukawa shifted the main focus of his cultivation from vegetables to pears, and gradually switched to cultivation methods with an awareness of eating quality.

Changes after switching to organic fertilizers

Furukawa FARM has been using 100% organic fertilizers since 2002, and has stopped using chemical fertilizers altogether. Currently, they use chicken manure, cattle manure, fish meal, and rice bran as fertilizers, and they say that the “taste” of their produce has changed dramatically since they switched to organic fertilizers. The new organic fertilizers have greatly changed the taste of the grapes. “Although they grow slower than chemical fertilizers, they produce fruit more slowly, so they store plenty of juice and have a nice crunchy texture,” he says.

Furthermore, “the balance between acidity and sweetness has improved,” he says. Based on his experience, Mr. Furukawa believes that nitrogen, a component of fertilizers, affects the acidity of pears. When we were using chemical fertilizers, the nitrogen content directly entered the pears, and the acidity was too strong. I have the impression that the acidity has become milder. For this reason, he pays special attention to the use of chicken manure, which has a high nitrogen content. Chicken manure has a strong immediate effect, so I never use it close to harvest. Rather, it is important to use it after harvest to prepare the soil environment for the next season,” says Furukawa.

Soil preparation through herbaceous cultivation

The farm’s soil is cultivated using a method called “herbaceous cultivation,” which makes use of weeds that grow naturally in the garden. Along with this, he also uses no-till cultivation, in which the fields are not tilled. Even after spreading fertilizer, they do not plow the field with a tractor, but leave it as it is and let nature take its course until it permeates the soil through decomposition by microorganisms. The number of earthworms increases and moles come a lot. Recently, beetle larvae have grown up to become adults and appear in the pear orchard.

Grass cultivation is a cultivation method in which a variety of weeds grow and take root in the garden, which is expected to fix nutrients in the soil, prevent the soil from drying out, suppress the rise in surface temperature, and make the soil softer. Healthy soil is the key to healthy pear trees,” says Furukawa while walking on the soft soil in the garden.

Young Farmers Spreading the Word about Highly Evaluated Eating Quality

Furukawa FARM currently grows six varieties of pears: Kosui, Natsuhikari, Toyosui, Kaori, Akizuki, and Niitaka. Of these, the rare “Natsuhikari” has been the focus of much attention in recent years. In addition to the Natsuhikari and other varieties winning awards at contests, the activities of the fifth generation couple who joined the farm as Mr. Furukawa’s successors have also contributed to a gradual increase in the number of fans. The sales channel, which used to focus on market shipments, has grown to the point where direct sales account for more than half of the business.

Natsuhikari, a rare variety attracting attention

In 2022, Natsuhikari won the Gold Prize in the August fruit and vegetable category of the “Vegetable Sommelier Summit” hosted by the Japan Vegetable Sommelier Association. In the same year, Kaori won the Gold Award and Toyosui won the Silver Award in the September Fruits and Vegetables Category. Natsuhikari is the most popular pear at Furukawa FARM.

Although Natsuhikari was developed in Chiba Prefecture in 1995, its production is low and it is a rarity in Chiba Prefecture, being outnumbered by the standard varieties Kosui and Toyosui. However, it has a high sugar content that is said to exceed that of Kosui, and it is so juicy that the juice drips down when the peel is removed.

Daughter and her husband spread the appeal of pears

Although the future as a pear farmer presents some challenges, such as the difficulty of cultivation due to global warming, the fact that his daughter Natsuki has succeeded him as the fifth generation farmer is a source of great hope for Mr. Furukawa.

For Natsuki, the farm is a place of fond memories, where she has helped with the work during her summer trips home. As I get older each year, I think it will be tough for my parents to continue to handle this amount of work alone. Our pears are very tasty, so I didn’t want the business to die out after my parents’ generation,” said Natsuki, who decided to start farming with her husband, Kodai.

Natsuki and her husband, Kodai, decided to start farming together. She has opened an online store and uses Instagram to spread the word, saying, “Especially since Natsuhikari is still not well known, we need opportunities to let people know about it. At the direct sales booths, they carefully convey the characteristics of eating quality with tastings. Natsuki laughs, “I often have a lot of fun talking about pears with customers who come to the direct sales stand. Thanks to such efforts, the number of fans has gradually increased, and the direct sales ratio has been successfully raised.

We are gradually getting more and more customers who tell us they are looking forward to receiving Mr. Furukawa’s pears next season,” says Natsuki. I think we must continue to produce pears of even better quality than before,” says Mr. Kodai with enthusiasm. Mr. Furukawa, watching the activities of the next generation at his side, said, “We were just too occupied with what we had been doing until now, but I am very encouraged that we have made solid connections with new customers. I look forward to the future.

The Furukawa family’s pear delicacy has been passed down from generation to generation. We can’t wait to see what the future holds.

The post Kazuaki Furukawa, the fourth generation owner of Furukawa FARM, who delivers high-quality pears with young people who will lead the next generation / Kamagaya City, Chiba Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

In the town of Atsusawabe, richly endowed with forests and water sources,
a farmer specializing in asparagus who practices farming methods that maximize the power of the land.
They continue to produce delicious crops so that everyone can enjoy a healthy and happy life.

Jet Farm’ s asparagus is sought after by everyone from Michelin-starred restaurants to ordinary diners. Mr. Hiroki Hasegawa, the representative of Jet Farm, is earnest in his commitment to healthy and delicious food for everyone, and spares no effort in drawing out the power of the soil in Atsusawabe. How was the asparagus, nicknamed “hasepara,” cultivated?

A Town Where Many Vegetables Grow, Including Potatoes

Located on the Oshima Peninsula in southwestern Hokkaido, the town of Asusabu is a town rich in nature with a thriving agricultural and forestry industry. The tourist city of Hakodate, located in the southeast of the peninsula, is approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes away by car.

While temperatures in Atsusawaabe-cho vary between day and night, the town is relatively mild and the snow melts quickly. A wide variety of crops are grown in the town, including “Asabu make-in,” a specialty crop that begins to be cultivated in early spring, soybeans, and asparagus. Asparagus, which is highly praised by chefs from all over Japan, is grown here in the town of Atsusawabe. Jet Farm, a farm specializing in asparagus, is responsible for this. Harvesting is from spring to summer.

Spring asparagus has a low sugar content, but its flavor is concentrated. The sweetness increases further through the summer.

Asparagus grown without pesticides is highly praised by top chefs.

Jet Farm, a farm specializing in asparagus, started in 2012 with the wish to “make people feel better by eating delicious asparagus. The farm ‘s stance is to use no chemical fertilizers and no pesticides. They do not use pesticides, herbicides, or insecticides, and grow asparagus in compost fermented mainly from plant materials.

As a producer, I am simply helping to draw out the natural power of the land,” says company representative Hiroki Hasegawa. From Italian to French, Japanese, Chinese, and even Spanish cuisine, Jet Farm’s asparagus is loved by chefs of all genres, and chefs at famous restaurants speak highly of the asparagus. Hasegawa’s asparagus, which has won the hearts of numerous chefs, has been delivered to 120 restaurants in Tokyo alone and some 200 nationwide, and there have been inquiries from abroad as well.

Good soil” made by earthworms

The town of Atsusawabe is a basin surrounded by mountains on three sides, and 80% of the town is forested. A river flows around Jet Farm’s fields, carrying nutrients nurtured by the hardwood trees in the mountains upstream. As you can see from the soil, it is clayey and hardens where people walk on it,” he explains. When the hardened soil is dug up, it crumbles like a cookie. What emerged from the crumbled soil were earthworms.

In fact, Hasegawa continues, the holes in the soil that look like tunnels are actually the remains of earthworms.

Earthworms defecate after passing through the holes,” Hasegawa said. When the tunnel holes are filled with feces, water, air, and plant roots can pass through, and the soil is in very good condition.

Microorganisms living in the soil break down organic matter in the soil, and the reduced protein is converted into amino acids, which are then converted into nitric acid and ammonia. This is the material cycle, and once the amino acids are converted, the plants can already absorb them.

However, in the case of chemical fertilizer cultivation, nitric acid and ammonia are not decomposed and increase in number, upsetting the balance. In order to maintain the balance of the material cycle, Jet Farm uses a fertilizer made from a mixture of fish waste, bran, dead asparagus stalks, and weeds collected from their own field soil.

I’d like to complete the process on my own, but we only grow asparagus, so the balance is lost. The weeds, which are plants other than asparagus, play a major role. So weeding is hard work, but I consider it a valuable resource.”

If these are piled up for a long time, they ferment and turn black. About three days before spraying, Hasegawa mixes the bran with crushed crab shells, which are rich in chitin, and kelp meal, and leaves the mixture on the ground. Around here, we often find fossilized whale bones, and about 200 million years ago, there was a sea.

The reason for adding marine materials to the soil is to make it more compatible with the original soil.

We started with manure and now we also use chicken manure. Although manure makes asparagus very sweet, I felt that it was not suitable for this field because it makes the asparagus look overworked.

Mr. Hasegawa searched for something that matched his field and would adjust the nutrients in the soil without destroying its individuality or asserting itself, and he came up with sea manure. I wondered what I could do to make the asparagus taste natural, not overly sweet, as if it had been coated with sugar. When I was looking for a natural flavor, I found that it blends well with the plant matter and minerals of the sea, and I settled on the way we do it now.”

Aspiring to become a farmer to help alleviate food shortages

Mr. Hasegawa, a native of Hakodate, started farming 12 years ago at the age of 26.

It all started when he read a newspaper article in the dormitory of the chemical company where he worked.

The article said that there would not be enough food in the not-too-distant future as a result of the world’s population increase. I decided that if someone else had to take on the responsibility, I would do it myself.

Although his desire to become a farmer grew, Mr. Hasegawa was actually a complete beginner. He chose the town of Atsusawabe because his wife’s family lived nearby, and he received training in potato cultivation, a specialty of the town. Around that time, he met an elderly couple growing asparagus and spinach in a greenhouse. When asked, they said, “My back is hurting and I would like to hand over farming to someone else soon. They told us that they were able to inherit the greenhouses, farm equipment, and barns as they were.

It is said that 90% of asparagus is water, and the quality of asparagus is greatly affected by the quality of water used.

The water supply in Atsusawabe-cho uses subsoil water from Mt. Because of the high quality of the water, we began to focus on asparagus production,” says Hasegawa.

I had experience growing potatoes, pumpkins, and beans during my training. But asparagus was new to me. He learned to grow asparagus from an elderly couple who took over the business. In his second year of farming, he began to feel a positive response.

However,” Mr. Hasegawa recalls.

I think there are parts of farming that you can’t get into unless you understand the principles,” Hasegawa said. But at the time, I just looked up what I didn’t understand on the Internet and gathered what I could.

He was so intent on following the theory that he used pesticides, herbicides, and chemical fertilizers without even thinking about it.

For some reason, he began to feel ill more and more often.

He said, “When I sprayed pesticides, I would get sick. I felt that this was somehow not good. I made a drastic decision and stopped using pesticides.

This turned out to be a bad move, and all the above-ground stalks of asparagus died.

After quitting pesticides, the harvest plummeted, and then he met his mentor.

He later learned that if he was going to stop using pesticides, ” the theory was to stop using chemical fertilizers as well, and to use organic fertilizers to improve the soil environment before starting pesticides. However, at that time, Mr. Hasegawa had no way of knowing what the theory was. His personal problems, such as the hospitalization of his child, also took their toll on him, and he became mentally and physically exhausted. As the harvest volume plummeted, he was burdened with expenses and fixed costs. There were times when I relied on my wife’s parents, who live nearby,” he says.

In his third year of farming, it was also a trying time for his asparagus production.

Mr. Hasegawa, troubled by the situation, met someone through an introduction. Mr . Seiji Akii, the representative of “Miyoi Noen” who organically grows “Kuririn” pumpkins with high sugar content in the neighboring town of Mori.

He says, “My mind and body were in shambles at the time, and it was like fate had brought us together. My mentor was also a man who had been experimenting with soil cultivation. He told me to start by understanding what soil is.

He taught me that it is important to understand the soil and to maintain the existing and original environment of the field.

Mr. Hasegawa says that his mentor’s words resonated with him.

He said, “If you use chemical fertilizers, the plants will certainly grow well, but you destroy the balance of the soil. I learned from my mentor that it is not good to do that. He told me that I should care about maintaining the original environment of the soil.”

Soil is composed of mineral dust, water, and air. In addition, microorganisms live and eat organic matter. Microorganisms gather, excrete, and another microorganism eats their bodies and is eaten by another microorganism…the soil is formed through this cycle. Plants live by sucking in nutrients from the excrement and dead microorganisms decomposed by the surrounding microorganisms. He learned that soil is made up of the workings of nature, and he continued to struggle to put this into practice.

He says that by following his master’s teachings and knowing and cultivating his own fields, he was able to create fertile and strong soil.

The asparagus no longer get sick,” he says. The yield also made a V-shaped recovery. I remember feeling relieved at the time that we had somehow managed to get our peelings back on the same page.

Fate continued to bring him opportunities to share the taste of the asparagus he had poured his heart and soul into.

One of my acquaintances who tasted the asparagus I harvested said, ‘Delicious! I was so happy to hear that. He introduced me to the chefs at two restaurants in Meguro Ward : “Ri Carica” in Gakugei Daigaku and “mondo” in Niyugaoka.

The two restaurants liked Mr. Hasegawa’s asparagus and introduced it to their menus. The reputation of “Mr. Hasegawa’s asparagus” spread among Italian chefs, and now there are inquiries from popular restaurants regardless of genre.

To deliver delicious asparagus in its best condition

As a grower, Mr. Hasegawa has always been searching for ways to produce delicious asparagus. He says that in the past, he used to take a forward-looking stance, saying, “I’m going to produce delicious asparagus︕. He says that his forward-looking stance has changed over the years.

Now I want to think about how to draw out the power of the field and how to reflect the power of the soil in the asparagus, and continue to grow asparagus that is “unique to our field.

Mr. Hasegawa is going back to the basics of agriculture, which is “subtractive” farming, where unnecessary things are eliminated rather than adding something new. I want to not only produce delicious products, but also make sure that people eat them in their best condition. He says that he would like to think about storage and distribution as well.

Asparagus that are picked in the morning are immediately put in the refrigerator and chilled for two hours before being cut and packed in bags. After cutting, the asparagus is kept in the refrigerator again until the delivery company arrives to keep it fresh. Unlike potatoes and other vegetables, which become sweeter when the temperature rises, asparagus lose sugar when the temperature rises. The secret to keeping asparagus tasty is not to leave it at room temperature, but to keep it in a state of suspended animation at a temperature close to 0°C, so that as much sugar as possible is not consumed. The asparagus is also delivered “standing up” to keep it fresh.

We want our asparagus to be in its best condition for both three-star restaurants and the average homeowner,” he says.

Jet Farm is celebrating its 10th anniversary. They will continue to weave the workings of the earth, sparing no effort to produce delicious asparagus that will bring enjoyable meals and happy times.

Jet Farm’s asparagus, nurtured by the subsoil water from Mt. With just the right amount of sugar, moisture, flavor, and soft skin, our asparagus can be boiled, grilled, or fried. Please enjoy them as much as you like! Spring asparagus, with its low sugar content, can be used in all kinds of cooking methods and menus, while summer asparagus can be grilled for a deeper flavor. We will do our best to make your mealtime more enjoyable!

The post Asparagus at “Jet Farm,” where subtractive agriculture brings out the individuality of the fields / Atsusawabe Town, Hokkaido first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Farmer with 120 years of history grows new vegetables

Makari Village in Hokkaido is located at the southern foot of Mt. Yotei , ” and surrounded by the mountains of the Niseko mountain range, the village is blessed with natural conditions such as temperature differences between day and night, fertile volcanic soil, and the mineral-rich subsoil water of Mt. Specialty products include lily bulb, the largest producer in Japan, potatoes, carrots, onions, sweet corn, and asparagus. In this village, where almost all of Hokkaido’s agricultural crops are harvested, there is only one person who grows completely different vegetables. He is Mr. Shinji Mino, the fifth generation owner of Mino Farm, which has been in existence for about 120 years.

Western vegetables indispensable for French and Italian food

Mino Farm grows about 30 varieties of Western vegetables, including leeks, Belgian shallots, pecoros, Savoy cabbage, romanesco, fennel, and other unfamiliar varieties, colorful beets and carrots, and purple cauliflower. All of these vegetables are rare and rarely seen in supermarkets.

Leeks, also called “poirot,” look thicker than Japanese leeks. The more it is stewed, the sweeter it becomes, making it an indispensable ingredient in French cuisine. Unlike Japanese cabbage, savoy cabbage, which Mr. Mino says is his “favorite,” is mainly used for cooking. Because it is chewy and soaks up the broth, she uses Savoy cabbage instead of Chinese cabbage in nabe dishes at her home.

It all started with a suggestion from the chef at the Maccarina Auberge.

Why did he start growing Western vegetables instead of local specialties? It all started in 1997, when the Auberge “Maccarina ” was established in Makari Village.

When my father’s generation was still in the village, the chef at the Maccarina asked the village office if he could try growing Western vegetables for use in French cuisine, as he wanted to use local ingredients instead of imported ones,” recalls Mr. Mino.

They were brave enough to start, but it didn’t go well, and most of the farmers quit. Only Mino Farm persevered, and after five to six years, the harvest finally began to stabilize. At that time, they were also growing other crops such as potatoes and carrots, which they had grown in the past, and shipping them to the agricultural cooperative.

It was not until 14 to 15 years ago, when Mr. Mino took over the farm, that he began to seriously deal with Western vegetables. Thinking that if he could grow leeks, he could grow other Western vegetables, he began to expand his lineup. However, it is no mean feat to produce vegetables that none of the surrounding farmers produce. While learning cultivation methods on his own, he planted vegetables that he thought could be grown in Makari’s climate.

The first and second years after planting,” he said, “they always failed. Then the next year, I would try shifting the planting season, or dividing one crop into several fields and planting at different times of the year. Through repeated trial and error, we finally arrived at a method that allowed us to harvest vegetables in a stable manner.

Turning the Rudder to Growing Vegetables for Restaurants

Mr. Mino had his reasons for insisting on growing Western vegetables. One reason is the high level of consumer interest. Every time he opened a booth at a produce market or event, he attracted a lot of attention and media coverage increased rapidly. Another reason is the challenge of farming that is not affected by fluctuations in market prices. While conventional farming with agricultural cooperatives requires less labor because large quantities can be harvested and shipped at once, it also makes it difficult to earn an income when market prices fall. Therefore, Mr. Mino narrowed down his target to restaurants and decided to sell directly at a certain price.

We priced our products manually by researching wholesalers and gathering information,” he said. Shipping from Hokkaido inevitably increases the cost of shipping, so we had to take that into consideration as well. But it is very rewarding to have people who want to buy the vegetables I price myself buy them.”

Direct transactions with “Maccarina,” the company that inspired him to produce Western vegetables, have also begun, and Mino Farm’s reputation has spread throughout Japan by word of mouth. Today, dishes using vegetables from Mino Farm are served at famous restaurants throughout Japan, including the long-established French restaurant “Tokyo Court d’Or” andthe Kyoto ryotei “Kikunoi”.

Because of the direct connection with the chef

With the increase in the number of restaurants he does business with and the number of items he grows, Mr. Mino’s vegetable production has become increasingly difficult. He had to carefully calculate which vegetables to plant, how much to plant, and how much to harvest.

We have to make sure that we have a stable supply of vegetables during the time they are used on the restaurant menu. We don’t want to have a situation where we run out of vegetables even though we have gone to the trouble of putting them on the menu. But inevitably, there are times when we can harvest a lot, and other times when the harvest is reduced. Only when the harvest is low do we get a rush of orders. That balance is the most difficult thing to achieve.

Cultivating fields to prevent “out of stock” on restaurant menus

In order to prevent continuous cropping (poor growth of the same crop in the same field), the farmers rotate the planting locations by introducing leafy greens after root vegetables, which grow in the soil. If the fields are forced to work too hard, the quality and yield of the vegetables will surely decline. In order to harvest the required amount of produce in a limited area, Mr. Mino also makes sure to prepare the soil using natural organic materials, microorganisms, and compost.

The chef’s words give him hints and energy for vegetable growing.

Even after the harvest is complete, the work at Mino Farm is far from over. The entire staff is working at full capacity, taking orders, sorting, packing, and shipping. He started direct sales of western vegetables to secure an income from farming, but now, more than anything, he feels a strong desire to live up to the trust and expectations of his customers, which he says is very rewarding. He actively communicates with chefs, asking them how the vegetables are doing and what they want.

The farmers around me say, ‘It looks like a lot of work. We have to harvest while being pressed for orders, and we have to ship in time. I think it is difficult if you look at it from the perspective of conventional farming. But I decided to do this.

Mr. Mino’s tone of voice is calm, but his words convey a strong sense of determination and conviction.

I want to increase the number of products that can only be made here.

The reason we have been able to continue farming here since our ancestors settled this land 120 years ago is because it is a good place to grow vegetables,” says Mr. Mino.

As evidence of this, while many farming communities are facing a shortage of successors, in Makari there are relatively many people who have succeeded their parents as farmers, and there is no farmland available at all in the village. According to Mr. Mino, “When farmland becomes available, everyone wants it.

You can continue to farm the land you inherited from your parents, or you can take on a new challenge like Mr. Mino. The efforts of Mr. Mino’s farm, which has opened up a new market for western vegetables for restaurants, reminds us that agriculture is full of possibilities.

Mr. Mino’s new goal is to increase the amount of local produce in the area.

If we grow crops that are only available here, there is great potential to increase our income,” he says. It would be interesting if our company becomes a catalyst for more and more farmers to want to grow Western vegetables in this area, and if Makari Village’s specialty products increase.

In the not-too-distant future, Makari Village may be the site of many new specialty products.

The post In response to a chef’s request to use domestically grown western vegetables. The challenge of “Mino Farm” / Makari Village, Hokkaido first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Kato Farm in the residential area of Hidaka

When one thinks of a ranch, one thinks of spacious hills. However, Kato Farm is located in a residential area of Hidaka City, which is known as a bedroom town in the city center. Many people are surprised to see the ranch suddenly appear in a quiet residential area, but the truth is that the ranch is not located in a residential area, but rather, houses were built around the ranch. It was about 50 years ago that Kato Farm moved with 10 cows from Tokorozawa to this location, beginning with the purchase of a dairy cow by the previous generation in 1954.
At that time, there were no houses, hardly any roads, and it was pitch-dark at night,” says Tadashi Kato, president of Kato Farm.
The farm now has about 200 dairy cows, and not only does it provide a comfortable environment for the cows in freestall barns with space for them to roam freely without being tied up in a large area, but it also established a gelato store in 1995 and a dairy products factory in 1997 to produce high-quality milk, yogurt, and cheese, and to develop the sixth industrial sector. In 1997, a dairy factory was established to produce high-quality milk, yogurt, and cheese.

Kato Farm, where the milk tastes exceptional

It is not a large farm. However, the taste of the milk is exceptional. The milk is pasteurized and bottled in as little as one hour (12 hours at the most) after being squeezed. Non-homo pasteurized milk,” which does not crush the fat in the raw milk, suppresses the absorption of fat because the fat globules are not crushed, and the milk has a rich sweet taste, yet it is refreshing and has no milk odor.
For safety and peace of mind, we have been particular about our feed, aiming to produce milk in a way that cannot be done by large corporations. We are located in a residential area, so many families visit us on weekends.
The dairy farm also has a restaurant on the premises that serves a variety of meals, including cheese bowls with various flavors, risotto with lots of cheese, and milk korai nabe (hot pot). To familiarize visitors with milk and dairy products, there is a rich menu of hands-on activities, including milking, making butter, cheese, ice cream, and pizza (reservations must be made by the day before; currently under renovation as of December 2020).

Processed dairy products are also available.

The direct sales area also offers a wide variety of processed products such as pudding, soft-serve ice cream, cheese, and yogurt. The concept of the shop is “to let as many consumers as possible taste the deliciousness of dairy products,” and they are actively developing products and restaurant menus.
The puddings, in particular, are so delicious that Hidetoshi Nakata, who had tasted them at famous restaurants across the country, couldn’t help but remark, “They are delicious. Kato Farm uses only the finest milk, cream, sugar, locally produced eggs, and vanilla beans, and no additives.

Kato Farm also offers a wide variety of cheeses

There is a wide variety of cheese available, and Kato Farm’s burrata cheese won the Gold and Grand Prize in the burrata category at the Japan Cheese Awards 2020, one of the largest cheese festivals in Japan, which is held every two years. Other blue cheese, wash cheese, and chevre also won bronze awards, indicating their high quality. Although dairy products are most often associated with Hokkaido, it is well worth the trip, as it is close to Tokyo and can be enjoyed by the whole family.

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Chicken Ñative to Japan

There are many famous ”jidori” chicken. Of them all, the leading jidori is the ”Hinai Jidori”. The 3 major ”jidori” of Japan are Satsuma Jidori, Nagoya Kochin, and the Hinai Jidori. We visited ”Akita Hinaiya”, which runs many shops and restaurants serving Hinai Jidori to learn about its history and ”great taste”. Hinai Jidori, as the name suggests, is chicken that is bred in the Hinai region in northern Akita. However, ”Hinai chicken” cannot be consumed, as they are very scarce and highly valuable as a chicken native to Japan, to the extent that it is designated as Japan’s National Treasure.

The Birth of the Hinai Jidori

Hinai chicken was originally known for its great taste. (However, it has not been consumed since being designated a National Treasure in 1942.) It was not fit for distribution because of its small size, minimal meat, and its low reproduction rate compared to other types of chicken. To overcome these factors, the Hinai Jidori was created. In order to keep the Hinai chicken’s positive features while raising the reproduction rate, the Road brand chicken was selected from hundreds of chicken at the Akita Livestock Experimental Farm. A male Hinai chicken and a female Road chicken were crossed to create the Hinai Jidori. There are strict requirements that need to be met to be live up to the Hinai Jidori name. For instance, Hinai Jidori must be bred in an environment with less than 5 chicken in 1 square meter after 28 days from hatching. They are certainly specially chosen chicken.

Taste approved by the world

We visited Abe’s Hinai Jidori chicken farm where the chicken are actually bred. According to Abe, the Hinai Jidori has the longest rearing period compared to other chicken brands. For example, the Nagoya Kochin takes 120 days, where the Hinai Jidori takes another month, 150 days for a full rearing period. ”That’s why they need to be kept healthy,” Abe says. The characteristic of Hinai Jidori meat is its savory, full bodied flavor. With a firm scent similar to a pheasant, its flavor spreads the more you chew. It is also a good ingredient for ”nabe”. ”The fat is rich in flavor and therefore the soup is incomparable. The fat is also clear, probably because they get exercise.” ”Is it used in ”kiritanpo nabe”?” Nakata asks, as Akita is famous for ”kiritanpo nabe”. Abe’s reply was ”I don’t really think so, since it’s expensive.” But imagining the clear soup made with Hinai Jidori is truly inviting. Recently, Hinai Jidori is highly praised abroad, and is used in Italian and French cuisine. It is one of the many ingredients that is the pride of Japan.

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The History of Akita Kazuno Beef

There are 2 famous beef brands in Akita. One is the ”Kuroge Wagyu” ”Akita Nishiki Wagyu” and the other is the Japanese Shorthorn ”Kazuno Beef”.
”Kazuno Beef” is a crossbreed of Nanbu cattle and Shorthorn cattle. Osarizawa mine, a mine with a long history is situated in Kazuno-City. The Nanbu cattle, the Kazuno cattle’s predecessor, were used for labor at the mine. They have strong legs and can move about on rocky land, where horses could not, and were highly valued in Akita.
As a result, they were not originally for consumption. However, this changed in the Meiji period. It was crossbred with the Shorthorn and selectively bred. It was officially approved as ”Japan Shorthorn” in 1957, and recognized as a native Japanese brand.

Delicious Red Meat

We visited the pasture managed by Akitaken Chikusan Agricultural Cooperative. Cattle from local farmers are kept here from May to October, allowed to graze freely.
Ryoichi Kimura of the Kazuno branch took us to the pastures where cattle came trotting toward us. ”They are friendly cows. ” Kimura laughs. ”Normally when Kuroge Wagyu is kept out in the pasture to graze, they become lean.” The main feature of Kuroge Wagyu and similar varieties is their marbled fat. In contrast, Kazuno Beef has a firm red meat. Compared to Kuroge Wagyu, it has less fat and more protein. Yet it is firm with more beefy flavor as you chew. That is what makes it so popular. The flavor was evident when we sampled the meat. You enjoy the ”meat” not the fat.
”It has more vitamins and minerals compared to other beef. As proof, Kazuno Beef turns black as soon as it comes in contact with air. Actually, this is also a setback as consumers believe that it has gone bad.”

Rare Brand in Japan

Japanese Shorthorns are bred in Iwate, Aomori and Hokkaido besides Akita. However, it is said to make up only 0.1% of the domestic beef market. There are economic reasons for this as well, with ”Kuroge Wagyu at a higher market price, cattle farmers inevitably tend to prefer Kuroge Wagyu.
Yet Kimura says, ”We have to protect the breed as long as we have consumers that want our beef.”
”We can only sell 50 cattle a year. That number is not enough to penetrate the market. Unless we produce more we will not live up to our name.” Most of the cattle farms that breed Kazuno cattle have diversified farming. Kimura is concerned that at this rate, Shorthorns will vanish from the market. Kazuno Beef is perfect for people who love to enjoy the authentic beefy texture. Kimura continues his efforts in support of the local farmers to satisfy these consumers.

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History of Koiwai Farm

Koiwai Farm is located northeast of Morioka city at the southern foot of Mt. Iwate. The farm spreads in a vast land of 300,000 square meters. A part of the farm is open to the public as the Koiwai Farm Makiba-en and is a huge tourist site that is famous in Japan.
The farm was born about 120 years ago in 1891. It started when Masaru Inoue who is known as the father of the Japanese railways, visited this land for inspection for the Tohoku line construction project and thought of opening a farm in this barren wilderness. When he told his idea to Gishin Ono who was the vice president of The Japan Railway, he introduced him to Yanosuke Iwasaki who was the 2nd president of Mitsubishi Corporation who agreed to invest in the farm. And that’s how the farm had started. The name Koiwai was derived from the first kanji characters of these three people, Ono, Iwasaki, and Inoue. After founding the farm, it took a lot of time for them to establish all the infrastructure but later they developed a breeding business” where they import excellent seed oxen from Europe and breed systematically in their farm in order to spread and support the dairy farm all over Japan. Furthermore, they planted trees in the barren wilderness and developed the farm into a comprehensive farm centering mainly on livestock and forestry.”

Rear cows while thinking about them..

”In the old days, everyone who worked on the farm used to live on the farm grounds. Therefore, everything you need for living such as primary school, day care center, and post office used to exist within the farm. In fact, preschool education in Iwate Prefecture started from Koiwai Farm. In addition, currently, 9 buildings are registered as Tangible Cultural Properties. And there are many buildings of historical value and many of them are still being used. At Koiwai Farm, the idea of continuing to use everything with care still exists deeply.” Explained Shohei Hamado who is in charge of ecotourism.
Next, we observed the barn that was built in the Heisei era and also a barn that has been used since the Meiji era. from a distance. The cows at Koiwai Farm have been bred systematically and as a result, you are able to know which cow is from which mother and eventually it goes back to the cow imported from Europe.
In the barn that has been used since the Meiji era, the health management of the cows is strict and it takes time and effort. However, in return they produce great milk so it’s worth the effort. On the other hand, the barn built in Heisei is managed as a group with free stalls and an open barn. The biggest problem for cows is stress, so this is a way to reduce stress as much as possible. ”We know how each calf was raised, and how the feed was grown, so this is how we can prove that it is all genuinely produced at Koiwai Farm. ”

Circulating Forestry

At Koiwai Farm, they also work on forestry. They showed us the trees with the signs of the year it was planted. Every year they plant a certain amount of seedlings per certain area and after 100 years they cut the trees that were planted first. This is called ”Hoseirin”, and it started in 1964 as an experimental forest. After 100 years, the forest resources in this area will be stable, and the amount of thinning, harvesting and planting will be constant. Then the forest can be maintained in the same state.
The objective is to carry out stable forestry while circulating the forest. The periodic maintenance of forest in a quantitative manner leads to the conservation of the national land and the preservation of the global environment. This is proven by looking at the forestry in Japan and in the world. The forests of the world is called ”the plunder forest” and is said to contribute to ”global warming” and ”desertification” by ”over cropping”. On the other hand, the Japanese forest is called ”the neglected forest” and said to contribute to ”natural disasters such as landslides” by ”logging too little”.
In the farm, they consider forestry from a wide perspective. They don’t simply look at lumber as raw material of wooden goods, but utilize wood as beds for mushrooms and mountain vegetables, or using thinned wood as wood chips with which to pave walkways with, or to make coasters for restaurants. They are also thinking about utilizing environmental studies and forest therapy etc.
Finally, we tried the milk which is only available in the farm store. ”Isn’t it refreshing?” asked Hamado. Yes it was a rather refreshing taste rather than creamy. ”

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Branded beef from Maezawa area, Oshu

”Maezawa Beef” is a brand beef from Iwate. It is one of the highest quality of beef in Japan. Iwate originally has a long history of breeding horses. Cows were strongly considered for utilitarian purposes used in farming, and the volume of production for food was not that large. However from around 1970, it became popular to breed cows for beef, and in the 1980’s it became famous nationwide after winning many awards. Of course in order to sell as Maezawa Beef it has to clear many regulations stipulated by the union. Once you clear all the regulations, then it will become ”Maezawa Beef”.
We visited Ogata Ranch in Maezawa district in Oshu city in Iwate Prefecture. There is a barn for raising cattle and a meat shop close by, the ”Maezawa Beef Ogata Station East Branch”, operated by the ranch, and a restaurant ”Meat Cuisine Ogata”. First we go and meet the cattle.

Improving the quality with new feed

When we enter the barn the cattle stood up to greet us. In one barn they grow about 850 cattle. In one month they ship 40-50 cattle to the market. One of the important things for raising cattle is the ”environment” said Mamoru Ogata. It is important for them to ”sleep in peace”.
Another important factor is of course the ”feed”. ”Smell this” he passed the food so we put our noses close to it. ”Vinegar?” Nakata asked. He replied ”This is liquor. Beer lees.” In 2008 when the Lehman shock created a lot of chaos in the financial world, the price of imported corn shot up and they faced a crisis because they could no longer use the same feed. They searched for feed that they could make themselves and tried and failed many times. They visited a local ”okara” factory and a beer factory, and mixed with the feeding rice which ended up with the current feed that has beer lees. Since it is high in nutritional value even a small amount is enough. The beef becomes sweeter when the cattle feed on it. By shifting to the local feed, the meat quality also went up.

You do not need any sauce for good meat

The meat from well raised cattle in Ogata Ranch will be branded as ”Ogata Ranch Meat” and sold at the store owned by the ranch. In the kitchen we heard stories about the skill of butchery. Ogata is proud to say that the Japanese butchery skills are number one in the world. Originally in Japan beef was handled as ”sukiyaki” meat and the technique of slicing it thin became high compared to the rest of the world. At the same time, people started to prefer meat marbled with fat. It is true that we cannot resist that melting taste.
If you are eating meat as grilled meat or steak, then fat should be ”moderate”, Ogata told us. Nakata totally agreed with his opinion. Ogata told us that the meat with light fat which is not greasy is considered delicious.
”You do not need any sauce for that kind of meat. It is best to eat it when it’s hot. That is the best.” We tried the meat from Ogata Ranch. The taste, there is no need to explain. You need to taste it for yourself.

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A large ranch utilizing the slope

Ninohe ward is located in the northern part of Iwate. We visited Tsuyoshi Mitani, of Osanpo Jersey Mitani Ranch, who runs a dairy farm in this area known to be the coldest place in Iwate.
The first thing that caught our eyes was the mild slope. It was still the thaw season, and it was not possible for the cows to graze the field, so we could not actually see the cows roaming around. However, just imagining cows walking there made us feel really calm.
The cows were currently in the barn so Mitani guided us there. When you think about cows on a dairy farm, the first picture in our minds will be the black and white patterned Holstein cows. The cows here were light brown.

What kind of cows are Jersey cow?

These cows are called Jersey cows. They are one size smaller than the Holstein and according to Mitani, light cows like Jersey cows are more suitable for the sloped land in Iwate.
”Jersey cows were first imported because they produce milk even with poor soil. Holsteins are large so they do not like to walk. Holstein is more suitable for flat and large land like Hokkaido. Jersey cows are more suitable for the land of Iwate.”
Mitani was not originally born in a family with a ranch, but came to this area in 2000 as a new farmer. He graduated from Tokyo Agricultural University and thought ”I want a job that makes something” and walked all around Japan. That is when he found this place. He started with a small ranch with 5 cows, and took his time and effort to raise the cows. ”Wouldn’t the severe cold have a negative effect on the cows?” asked Nakata. ”In fact there isn’t. The water we give them comes from the well, so the temperature is the same throughout the year. And in the summer, they eat well and move well so they are healthy. In the winter it is cold enough so there are no diseases, and they grow strong.” And furthermore, the milk from the healthy cows taste deep but fresh.

Refreshing taste of milk

Jersey cows are raised all over the world, and since the milk has a high fat content, it is valued for making processed food such as butter. Mitani also makes processed food that he is proud of.
”The milk tastes really refreshing. So we make simple things such as Fromage or Mozzarella cheese. And we try to incorporate the customer’s feedback and requests.”
There are many other products he wants to make, and he let us taste some of them.

We asked what the goal is for the future and he replied ”We want to improve the quality of our management of the cows.” You cannot increase the number of the cows easily. That is not a good thing for the cows either. He also wants to improve the grass on the ranch since they eat raw grass. For now they want to increase the quality and not the quantity.
Simple products are dictated by the taste of milk. It is all determined by healthy cows.

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“Sendai beef”, representative of Sendai

Sendai is famous for beef tongue dishes. They are delicious, living up to the popularity. We also definitely recommend ”Sendai beef”. It has an excellently balanced flavor with just the right amount of fat, and it is really delicious.
It is not called ”Sendai beef” just because it is raised in Sendai or in Miyagi. It can only be called Sendai beef if ranking A5 or B5, the top meat quality grades. Anything ranked below that is called ”Sendai black wagyu”. According to Shu Otomo, the Sendai beef farmer, of all black ”wagyu” produced in Miyagi Prefecture, only 30 percent is qualified as ”Sendai beef”. Only the meat which passed the strict examination are shipped as ”Sendai beef”.

Miyagi’s specialty “rice straw” is the key

When no machines or tractors were used for farming, working cattle were used for rice plant farming in Miyagi. Miyagi was and still is a major rice growing district, so there was a great demand for working cattle. Now the cattle are kept as beef cattle, and that has a lot to do with rice plant farming.　
Growing rice plants means there is a good supply of ”rice straws” after the rice is harvested. Miyagi ships rice straws all over Japan to be used for feed and straw weaving. These straws are the key to the marbling in the Sendai beef Otomo produces. He said he cannot get good marbling when using ordinary hay. The secret of delicious beef lies here.

The desire to continue because people say it’s delicious

At the time of the interview, a cow was about to be shipped. When Nakata saw the cow, he commented, ”It’s smaller than I imagined.”
”That’s right. We grow mainly female cattle. I think cow meat is more tender and tasty.” said Otomo.
The cattle are shipped live, so the farmers rarely get to eat the cattle they have grown. It’s only when he talks to the customers that he finds out how the meat tasted. The feedback and opinions he gets stimulates his desire to strive for more.
”Cattle farming is not a lucrative business. And it’s very hard work. So, it’s difficult for someone new to come in to the business. I want to persevere. It’s a great pleasure for me to hear someone say it was delicious. That’s all I need to keep me going.”

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