In Okinawa, there are still sacred places called “Utaki” where people have offered prayers since ancient times in various places. Among them, “Sefa Utaki” is known as the most sacred place in the Ryukyu Kingdom. The primitive space that tells the spirit of “nature worship” that gods reside in nature itself such as rocks and trees attracts visitors.

Utaki tells the story of Okinawa’s history, where nature worship is deeply rooted

Sefa Utaki is located in Nanjo City, in the southern part of the main island of Okinawa. Since being registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000 as “Gusuku Sites and Related Properties of the Kingdom of the Ryukyus,” it has become widely known both in Japan and overseas, and is now one of Okinawa’s leading tourist destinations, with over 400,000 visitors per year. However, the first thing that confuses first-time visitors is how to read the name.

“Since it is generally read as saijo (funeral hall), some people think that they are visiting a crematorium. The origin of the name is that “sai” means pure, so it was named saijo because it is a sacred place. Another theory is that the place name “Saihabaru” here was corrupted to “Se-fa” and became saijo as a phonetic spelling.” This is what Hideaki Ishida of “Amamikiyo Romantic Association,” a tour guide at Sefa Utaki, explained. Okinawa is an island where nature worship is deeply rooted, worshiping nature such as trees, springs, rocks, and wells. Since it is believed that gods descend to such natural formations, there are no gods or worship halls like shrines in Honshu. However, important history and the spirit that our ancestors have cherished and passed down reside in parts of nature that we would pass by if we were to pass them by. Ishida has been a guide at Sefa Utaki for many years, wanting to convey the importance of such utaki to many people.

The reason why it is said to be the most sacred place in the Ryukyu Kingdom

According to Ishida’s explanation, there are about 900 Utaki in Okinawa. Why is Sefa Utaki said to be the most sacred place in the Ryukyu Kingdom? The reason is that it is a Utaki created by Amamikiyo, the god of the creation of the Ryukyu Kingdom. In Ryukyu mythology, it is said that Amamikiyo created seven Utaki, the Seven Utaki of the Creation of the Ryukyu Kingdom, when he created the nation of Ryukyu. Sefa Utaki is one of them.

There is also a legend that Sefa Utaki was the place where the ceremony “Oaraori” was held, in which “Kikoe Okimi” takes over as the highest priest. Kikoe Okimi is the highest-ranking title for a female priest (Noro) in the Ryukyu faith. It is said that Sefa Utaki was the spiritual protector of the Ryukyu kings and the entire kingdom, and was in charge of the royal ceremonies for over 400 years, from the first king (1470) to the 15th king (1875). With such an important role, the inauguration ceremony of Mikoe Okimi was a significant ritual for the entire nation. This shows just how special Sefa Utaki was in the Ryukyu Kingdom.

A sacred area where only female priests are allowed to enter

There are six places of worship called “Ibi (sacred area)” in Sefa Utaki. It takes about an hour to walk around them all at a leisurely pace. Starting from “Sefa, the Green House,” you will proceed through the mysterious forest where the entire area is considered sacred.

At the beginning of the approach to Utaki, there is the “Kudaka Island Worship Site,” which overlooks Kudaka Island in the sea to the east. Kudaka Island is said to be the first island created when Amamikiyo, the god of the creation of the Ryukyu Islands, descended from heaven to earth, and is also known as the “Island of the Gods.” In Ryukyu, it is believed that Niraikanai, the world where the gods live, lies to the east where the sun rises, and people have offered prayers to Niraikanai. From Sefa Utaki, Kudaka Island is located to the east. For this reason, the “Kudaka Island Worship Site” has also been revered as a passage to Niraikanai.

To the right of that is the entrance to the Utaki, called Ujoguchi. From here onwards, the Utaki was once managed directly by the Shuri Royal Court, and only the king and those who performed religious ceremonies were allowed to enter. During the Ryukyu Kingdom era, only women could become priests, so men were not allowed inside. It is not known for certain, but it is said that even the king had to change into women’s clothing when entering.

“The famous Kikoe Okimi was also a woman, but the reason why there were only women is because of the Onari God faith that was rooted in the Ryukyu Kingdom era. Onari means sisters. In the past, in the Ryukyus, men would go out to work at sea, while women would stay at home and pray for the safety of their men. Eventually, it was believed that sisters had the spiritual power to protect their brothers, and the Onari God faith, which believes in the spiritual power of women, became the foundation of the Ryukyu Kingdom. As a result, women came to be in charge of rituals as priests, and at Sefa Utaki, priestesses (noro) have offered prayers for peace and prosperity for the Ryukyu Kingdom, bountiful harvests, and so on. It wasn’t until 1879, after the Ryukyu Kingdom was destroyed, that anyone was allowed to enter freely.”

There are six stone incense burners at the entrance to the shrine. These represent the six places of worship within the shrine. As mentioned above, not everyone was allowed inside the shrine, so those who were unable to enter offered their prayers here.

Six places of worship within the Utaki where prayers were offered

As you climb through the dense forest from the Gomonguchi entrance, you will see the first place of worship, “Ufugui,” on your left. Ufugui means “large hall” or “first seat.”

There is a huge rock at the back, and in front of it is a prayer space (una) with a raised stone pavement. It is said that the “Oshinagari” ceremony took place here, when Mikoe-no-Okimi was inaugurated as the highest priest.

The second place of worship is “Yuinchi.” Yuinchi is the Ryukyu Kingdom’s term for kitchen. However, cooking was not done here, and it is interpreted as a place where bountiful harvests flowed in from all over the country during the Ryukyu Kingdom era, when trade was thriving. The king and priestesses are said to have prayed for the prosperity of the kingdom and bountiful harvests at Yuinchi, where a large rock juts out above them.

The third and fourth places of worship are the “Amadayuruashikanubi” jar and the “Shikiyodayuruamaganubi” jar. The water that drips from the two stalactites is said to be “sacred water,” and two jars have been placed there to catch it.

“Ryukyu was originally an island formed by the uplift of coral chunks. The rocks at Sefa Utaki are made of Ryukyu limestone, so they have many holes. When it rains, the rainwater seeps into the rocks and accumulates there, and gradually trickles down. It was believed that divine plants grew on top of these rocks, and the water that falls from the rock to nourish the plants is truly divine water. There is a legend that drinking this water will ensure good health.”

A mysterious triangular landscape created by huge rocks

Behind the two jars are the fifth and sixth places of worship, Sangui and Chonohana, which are the highlights of the tour course. The view from in front of these places of worship is a symbolic view of Sefa Utaki and a great spot for taking photos. Two huge rocks support each other, creating a triangular space, creating a mystical landscape created by nature.

Chonohana is a place of worship that is said to have a deep connection with Mikoe-no-Okimi, and is considered the most prestigious place of worship in Sefa Utaki. There are 15 incense burners here, and since Mikoe-no-Okimi was the 15th reign, it is thought that the number of incense burners was prepared for each reign. Currently, it is prohibited to enter beyond the triangular tunnel, and it is not possible to reach these two places of worship, but at the end of the triangle is Sangui, and on the rock to the right of that is Chonohana, so it is a good idea to pray from the outside.

A total of nine magatama (curved beads), including three rare gold magatama (curved beads), have been excavated from the underground of Sangui, and they have been designated as important cultural properties of Japan. Magatama are sacred objects worn by female priestesses, and are said to have been buried here as prayers to appease the anger of the gods.

“Before the magatama was excavated, it was merely a legend, but the fact that such a valuable object was found as physical evidence proves how sacred Sefa Utaki was during the Ryukyu Kingdom era. It can be said that it was truly the most sacred place in the Ryukyu Kingdom.”

Even now, Sefa Utaki is worshiped as a place of prayer, even after the passage of time. Why not surrender yourself to this sacred space, listening to the chirps of the birds, the sounds of the grass and trees rustling in the wind, and the voices of nature, while thinking about the history and spiritual culture that resides in this place?

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Ogasawara Historical Remains

In the dense mountain forest of the Ogasawara islands, there are many historical remains. Many historical remains around Japan have disappeared over time. They reflected the people’s lives during the war.
Iwo Jima, located in the south of the Ogasawara Islands in renowned for the battlefield, and Chichijima also carries the many scars left behind by the garrisoned forces.
Nakata toured the mountain forest of Chichijima, guided by battle field guide, Zenhachi Tanaka.
Zenhachi Tanaka is a veteran guide that goes by the nickname ”Itacho”, He himself outlived the war and knows about war firsthand. He also interviewed war veterans to hear their stories for research purposes.

Walking in Myoyama at Night

First we headed to Myoyama located in the northern part of Chichijima. Of the many underground trenches, the communication corps headquarters was one of the biggest. One of its entrance supposedly had quadruple doors and people worked inside, tracing bomber planes and acted as a communication center for other islands such as Iojima in the south. Surprisingly, just a short distance away, canons still remain. They have been partially destroyed on purpose to prevent from being used, but it is a vivid sign of the calamity of war.
There is also a tall concrete building which is said to have been the power station for the navy aircraft communication center. There are remnants of a generator. Many have voiced a need to preserve such locations for their historical importance.

Spreading the Word

People of all ages participate in the tours, including people who come to Ogasawara for sightseeing, high school and college students on study tours, and local elementary students on field trips. During the tour, participants walk along cliffs, through bushes, look in the trenches using flashlights, making them wander about the people who had lived there during the war.
Itacho’s style of touring is to introduce the nature and beauty of Ogasawara, and explaining the history and environment of Ogasawara so participants have a full understanding. His son, Shin Tanaka, has begun acting as a battle field guide as well.
Walking around the island on a daily basis, they visit the battle field ruins with the tourist to convey the stories to the next generation.

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Jomon Era Cave Habitat

Almost everyone visiting Ooyaji Temple will be surprised seeing the mountain made of huge strange rocks. At the foot of the mountain, a “Kannon-do” hall (hall dedicated to Goddess of Mercy in a temple) is build underneath the rocks as if it were tucked in. Many may wonder “Why was such building built here?”
But these rocks are greatly related to the history of this area.
Way before the founding of Ooyaji Temple, a cave believed to be human habitat from the Jomon period remains in this rocky mountain and is preserved as “Ooya Iwakage Iseki” ruins (Ooya Rock Shelter Ruins).
The cave is believed to be a lateral hole dwelling from the early Jomon period, and human skeleton form about 11,000 years ago has been unearthed. (*A part of the skeleton is exhibited in the Treasure Museum in Ooyaji Temple.)
And in the stone walls of the ““Ooya Iwakage Iseki” ruins, “Magaibutsu” or cliff-carved Buddhas are engraved.
In other words, Ooyaji Temple is a rare place which is not only a Nationally Designated Special Historic Site for being a Jomon historic ruin, but is also designated Important Cultural Properties as a Buddhist historical site

Presence of “Magaibutsu” on Stone Walls

Ooyaji Temple is said to have been founded in 810 in the Heian period when Kobo Daishi carved the principal statue Senju Kannon. Besides Senju Kannon, there are altogether 4 sets of stone Buddhas left at present including “three Buddhas of Shaka”, three Buddhas of Yakushi”, and “tree Buddhas of Amida” totaling in 10 statues. The chief priest showed us inside of the cave.
“In the beginning, the stone Buddhas were covered with gold leaf. It reveals similarities with the stone Buddhas of Bamiyan, probably a method of carving passed directly from the Silk Road. They must have been quite impressive in appearance, but unfortunately the gold leaves have fallen over the many years. We’ve had many fires, and so the statues were damaged.”
“And the people of the past, they really did a good job at carving.” Said Nakata.
“Yes, that is true. Scholars of Tochigi Prefecture have continued studies, and the statues are considered to have been made in the later Nara period.
The theory is that they were made mainly by second-generation disciples of Ganjin who founded Toshodaiji Temple.
At that time, domain of the Nara Imperial Court extended as far as Tochigi. Therefore, the status may have been made as a national project at the northern strategic point. “
The chief priest spoke to us in front of the cliff-carved Buddhas, “Buddha has no sects, only the worshippers have sects.”
Humans have lived in this land for may long years, the cliff-carved Buddhas and the temple have remained as a ground of worship. Ooyaji Temple may be a place where visitors can reflect on that history.

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Progress of man

Human beings appeared on earth about 3 million to 3.6 million years ago. This period is called the Old Stone Age, and mammoths and Naumann elephants lived during this period. During the mid Old Stone Age, which was about 50 thousand to 100 thousand years ago, Japan was still a part of the Asian continent. The theory is, during this period, men migrated to Japan to hunt for these large animals.
About 10 thousand years ago, the Ice Age ended. When the temperature and the sea level rose, and the islands were separated by the sea from the continent, and Japan gradually formed the similar environment of the present. The conifer forests became deciduous forests, large animals disappeared, and Japan became the land of small animals such as boars, deer and rabbits. The culture developed to adapt to such natural environmental change. Chipped stone tools and patterned pottery were created during this period, called the Jomon period.

Birth to the prototype of ”country”

Japan was influenced by trends within the continent. Around 4th century BC, an agricultural society developed in the northern part of Kyushu. During this time, Qin dynasty was born in China, which had a strong centralized government, and they spread their culture to all the people around them. During this period, Jomon pottery transformed into a pattern-less, thin, reddish-brown pottery called the Yayoi pottery. People of the Yayoi culture used sophisticated tools and made items such as bronze or iron tools, weaving silk and building elevated storage houses, adapting to the changes in lifestyle. The theory is that Yayoi culture started in northern Kyushu and spread to the rest of Japan.

The Yoshinogari ruins in Saga prefecture is one of the largest Yayoi period ruins in Japan. It is a very important site to understand ancient history, since it reveals the beginning of collective village living which was the central concept of ”country” during the Yayoi period. Remnants of buildings and items from pre, mid, and post Yayoi period have been uncovered there.

Academic excavation and research, as well as programs for tourists

There are various replicas created within the park such as a warehouse which stored items that people in the settlement needed, places to conduct festivals or give prayer, a court, and a king’s residence. Presently, excavations are also conducted within the park by the prefecture. Also, there are various visitor activities such as ”fire starting”(clay flute making instead on rainy days), making ”magatama” accessories, mirrors, and ”Shingi Wao” seal and gold seals. Another program is the ”become people of Yayoi” program, where visitors wear clothes worm by people during the Yayoi period, and make cloth to experience how the people in Yayoi period lived. These programs are designed for visitors to have a realistic experience of how the ancestors of Japanese people lived.

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