Registered as World Heritage Site in 2011

The Hiraizumi area was registered as World Heritage Site in 2011 under the title ”Hiraizumi – Temples, Gardens and Archaeological Sites Representing the Buddhist Pure Land, in which Motsuji is included.
Motsuji was founded by Jikaku Daishi Ennin over 1000 years ago in 850. This is about the at the same time when Chusonji Temple was built. After that, Motohira and Hidehira from Oshu Fujiwara family created a huge monastery to revitalize the temple. Many halls and monasteries were built and the temple was said to be larger than Chusonji Temple at the time. Later, in 1573, during the Age of the Warring States, it was burned in combat and all the buildings were burned. As the power of the Fujiwara family declined, all the halls were destroyed after encountering many disasters. However, the garden and the ruins of the monastery remained in nearly perfect shape.

The reconstructed main hall originally built in the Heian period

The main hall was built in 1989. According to head priest Kojun Shirayama who guided us, the building was re-constructed based on the building style from the Heian period.
Nakata shared his impression after seeing the main building, ”Vermillion red painting is more associated with Shinto shrines.” Shirayama explained, ”Yes it certainly does. However Heian period was s time when Shinto and Buddhism was fused together. So there was no difference between shrines and temples. They both existed at the same place. It was only after Meiji period when the two religions were made distinct from each other.”

But why did they choose the style of the Heian period for re-construction? It was because the garden remained in the style of the Heian period. The garden which is also called Paradise (Jodo) Garden was created in the space of about 20 hectares. The design is said to be based on the oldest known garden book ”Sakutei-ki” written in the Heian period. The garden is built around the Oizumigaike pond, and the ”araiso” style waterfront and the ”kare sansui” style landscaping replicates famous landscapes of Japan with the combination of manmade and natural beauty.
”For better or for worse, this area did not have large scale development projects so that is why the Heian period garden and ruins still exist untouched.” Shirayama told us. They wanted to create a main hall to match the garden.

“Hono Enbu”, dance by the monks

Motsuji, as mentioned earlier, is a part of the World Heritage Site. In the middle of the site, there is the Jodo Garden and the ruins of ”Rinchi Garan” nearby is designated as National Special Historic Site and Special Beautiful Scenery. In addition, there is the main hall, Kai Kaizando, Jogyodo and the famous stone plaque with Basho’s famous haiku ”Summer plants, Soldiers, All remains a dream.”

There is also an Intangible Cultural Property at Motsuji. The dance is called ”Einen no Mai” (longevity dance) and performed by priests to be offered to Buddha and his guardian deity. It is performed in a hall called Jogyodo. The offering is made on the 20th day after New Years to pray for the peace of the nation, rich harvest and prevention of illness. It is generally known to the public as the ”20th Night Festival”.
As we stood in front of the Heian period garden, we have a great view. The most beautiful seasons are the spring with fresh green and autumn. The view made our hearts relax.

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Folk Song in the World Heritage Designated Village

Gokayama was designated World Heritage as ”Shirakawago / Gokayama Gassho Zukuri Village” along with Shirakawa village of Gifu prefecture in 1995. Gassho-style houses were built out of necessity so the houses do not get crushed under the weight of the snow, this being an area with heavy snowfall during the winter. The rows of houses surrounded by the dense vegetation of the mountains display a classic Japanese scenery. At Gokayama, there are many ”Minyo” folk songs such as the famous ”Minyo” song, ”Kokiriko bushi” or ”Mugiyabushi” noted as the oldest of such songs of Japan. There are tales which have not been proven fact or fiction, that Gokayama was a hideout for the Heike clan after they lost their war against Kiso (or Minamoto) Yoshinaka. Lyrics from ”Mugiyabushi” mention lines such as ”Getting rid of the luxurious clothes once worn..” or ”Feeling lament and sadness for the path I will now follow after the defeat.” Lyrics express how the Heikes flee from the capital and go into hiding.

The Tradition Lives on

Another dance is the ”Maimai” which can probably be said as the oldest folk dance that exists in Japan. During festivals the young would gather and dance holding hands one after the other in turn. There is a saying that you are destined to marry the person you held hands with during this dance… Gokayama has its own uniqueness. The visible traditional Gassho made houses and the not visible old traditional folk songs both exist as a part of Gokayama history.

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Link to Koubou Daishi

Toji is a temple built by the government built upon the transfer of the Heiankyo capital. There were 2 temples built on the east, the east temple Toji, and the west temple Saiji to protect the capital. After the transfer under Emperor Kanmu, and later Emperor Saga appointed Koubou Daishi Kukai in charge of Toji. This made Toji the root training ground to the Shingon Esoteric Buddhism. Kukai immediately undertook the structuring of the main hall and temple. The 5-towered pagoda currently regarded as the symbol of Kyoto was also built at this time, 1200 years ago. Toji had experienced numerous natural disasters and had been restored the same amount of times, though the layout of the buildings are more or less the same as Kukai had planned.

Temple Remaining from Heiankyo

During times when battles between the Genji and Heishi became intense towards the end of the Heian period, Toji and Saiji both declined in power. Saiji unfortunately was never restored but Toji was restored by Unkei during the Kamakura period. Although going through multiple times of confusion, it is the only temple that still remains from the days of Heiankyo in the present.

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The Beginning and End of the Edo Period

When we hear the word ”Nijo Castle” many may instantly think of ”Taiseihokan”. Indeed at the last days of the of the Edo period, the last Shogun Yoshinobu Tokugawa proclaimed the Taiseihokan at the Ninomaru Palace of the Nijo castle. . This triggered the demise of the Tokugawa Shogunate, so you may say this is the place where one era was terminated. However, it is also where Edo period was given birth. Nijo Castle was created in 1603 by orders of Ieyasu Tokugawa who had proclaimed victory at the battle of Sekigahara.

Architecture that Gathered Essence of Beauty

In that same year Ieyasu was designated ”Seitaishogun honin”, and had paid respects to the imperial court at the palace, as was the custom since the Muromachi period. Later he was officially designated as ”Shogun” and that was the full-scale start up of the Edo period. Nijo Castle is attributed as treasured asset culturally and artistically, designated with UNESCO World Heritage as Cultural asset to old capital Kyoto, the Ninomaru Palace designated National Treasure, the Ninomaru Palace Gardens designated as Special Scenic Spot of the Nation. The palace was witness to both the beginning and end of the Edo period.

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Historical Reconciliation

Tenryuji is a Rinzai-sect temple built by Takauji Ashikaga in mourning for Emperor Godaigo. If you had wondered ”Really?” you have some insight in history. Takauji Ashikaga is the person who had revolted against the ”Kenmu Restoration act” proclaimed by the Emperor. Emperor Godaigo had ordered his subjugation. Zen priest, Musousoseki who had strong ties with both the Emperor and Takauji Ashikaga strongly suggested to Takauji to built a temple for his mourning as a symbol of reconciliation. Thus Tenryuji became the site to this historical reconciliation and Musousoseki became the first head priest.

Garden as it was when First Created

After completion, Tenryuji became top of the 5 temples of Kyoto, but after many tragedies such as fires and the Ounin War, most of the temple had been destroyed. The Sogenchi-teien, the garden Musousoseki had created, is the only part of the temple that still remains as it was upon its foundation. It is a garden surrounding the Sogen Pond and is a garden that changes its expression with the mountains, as it blends in with the Arashiyama mountains beyond the river, and the Kameyama mountain in the west. Tenryuji’s construction took time due to financial reasons and to solve this problem, Takauji’s brother Naoyoshi resumed trade with Yuan and used the profit from this for the construction cost. This was the famous ”Tenryuji boat”. Here, is another historical story tucked away.

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Revering nature, mountain worship, “shugendo”

Ohminesan-ji is a sacred site founded approximately1300 years ago by Enno Gyoja, who later became the founder of ”shugendo” . It is a temple that stands 1700 m above sea level, on the summit of Sanjogatake, the center of the mountains of Ominesan.
Both concepts of revering nature and mountain worship existed in ancient Japan, but it later merged with Taoism and Buddhism, developing into ”shugendo”, unique to Japan.
The principal object of worship of Ohminesan-ji and Kinpusen-ji, also the center of ”shugendo” worship is the Zaou Gongen. This is quite different from Buddha of Buddhism or gods of Shintoism, but it is said that this is what Enno Gyoja perceived when he finished his strict training in the mountains. It is a revered statue that is unique to Japan, not deriving from India nor China. Ohminesan-ji still exists as the basic place of practice for ”shugendo”, and is the only sacred site that has been off limits to females since the beginning of the Heian period. The mountain allows visitors to enter the mountain only 5 months a year. The mountain is closed until the ”toakeshiki” that takes place every year at daybreak on the 3rd of May, and is open till the ”toshimeshiki” at daybreak on the 23rd of September.

Pledging allegiance at “Nishi Nozoki”

We experienced ”shugendo” training upon entering the mountain. Accompanying us was a Yamabushi who had been undergoing training in the mountains for 17 years, blowing the conch-shell horn and reciting prayers at each sacred point. Although it was already mid-May, when we passed the foggy mountain trails and reached the steep cliff ”Kanekake Iwa” we found icicles still hanging from the nearby trees. There were chains secured onto the side of the cliff acting as handrails to help you climb ”Kanekake Iwa”, but it is literally rock climbing. Once you climb up this cliff, you will reach ”Nishi Nozoki”.
At ”Nishi Nozoki” you are bound in ropes and hung half way down from the cliff, where you are made to look down below. While you are still hanging mid way, you are asked a question, ”Do you still want to continue your devotion for the pursuit of your faith?” You need to reply with determination, otherwise your training will not end. Here, in this dangerous state, you will confess, repent, and pledge allegiance. Our group climbed up the mountain further and finally reached ”Ohminesan-ji” all in one piece.

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All Yoshino cherry trees are sacred

The cherry trees of Yoshino are the most famous in Japan. ”Kinpusen-ji” looks over all the sacred cherry trees on its premises.
The founder is the father of ”shugendo”, Enno Gyoja. The main worshipped statue is the Zaougongen, and besides this, Zaoudo, the main temple hall enshrines many other sacred images. The Zaoudo is highly appraised as architecture and has multiple layers of Irimoya-style roof and stands elegantly and grand.
We had already visited Ohminesan-ji , but these two temples were given separate names from the year Meiji 19 (1886). The 2 temples had existed but had both been referred to as Kinpusen-ji. In the Meiji period, the government banned ”shugendo” and also ruled the ”Shintoism and Buddhism separation Ordinance” where Kinpusen-ji was forced into temporary abandonment. Later in the year Meiji 19 (1886) current Kinpusen-ji was restored by the Tendaishu Shugendo sect, however the 2 temples Zaoudo and Ohminesan-ji were kept separate. Although they were originally the same ”shugendo” sacred site, that is how it still stands to this day,

Elevating your soul by sensing the surroundings

In 1948, Kinpusen Shugen Ascetic Sector was proclaimed, and Kinpusen-ji became the head temple with Zaoudo as the center. This temple with the Yoshino cherry trees has been the backbone for people’s faith for over 1300 years.

After returning from Ohminesan-ji, we reported to Kinpusen-ji to receive our ”Certificates of Accomplishment”.　Toshinori Tanaka, Chancellor asked ”How was it?”. To this query, Nakata answered, ”I have gone through religious training in Tibet and Bhutan as well, but this was the toughest of all.”
Tanaka explained that ”shugendo” is to train not just oneself but to enter the mountain, revere it, and realize what lives inside us, and to elevate that will in the wild nature, in the world of Mandala.
”To pray refers to sensing your surroundings. In the modern society, you tend to be overly self-conscious. It is far more important to sense something other than your own self, is it not?”
Since the ancient past, the Japanese have always had a deep connection to nature and had discovered numerous things from nature. ”Kinpusen-ji” succeeds this manner through ”shugendo”.

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Capital of Heijo built for spiritual protection

Get off at Nara station on the Kintetsu line, and you will see a big entrance gate of the shrine on your left as you look towards along Todaiji. Go through that gate and walk through Nara park and you will reach the shrine Kasuga Taisha, built for the spiritual protection of Heijokyo.
It is said that Kasuga Taisha was built in 710 when the capital was transferred to Heijo, and that was when Fujiwara Fuhito built a shrine to deify Takemikazuchino Mikoto, said to have had strong relations with the Fujiwaras, at the Mikasayama in Kasuga. Approximately 60 years later Kasuga Taisha is said to have been completed at the foot of Mikasayama, where Fujiwara no Nagate structured 4 shrines, enshrining the deities.
The Fujiwara family had strong ties with Kofukuji as well, and when Shintoism and Buddhism was synchronized, Kasuga Taisha and Kofukuji also became very close, and it was said that ”Buddhist memorial services were conducted under the protection of the gods of Kasuga Taisha.”

Observing the dedication dances

The day Nakata visited, the ritual ”Takigi Onoh Shushihashiri no gi” was to take place, and the Konparu school’s ”Okina” was scheduled. ”Jushi” is a Buddhist ritual to ward off and protect the space from evil. The big and fierce movements of this ritual gave it the name ”Jushi bashiri”. It is said to be one of the oldest ”jushi” art. In the past, priests had enacted these rituals, but with time performers took their place. Now in current times, the main role is performed by the character ”Okina”.
The deer of Nara park are familiar to the Japanese. The deer also have strong ties with Kasuga Taisha. The deer have been protected as messengers to god due to legend that Takemikazuchino Mikoto came riding on the back of a white deer from Kashima Jingu in Ibaragi to Kasuga Taisha. Currently there are about 1200 deer and they are designated as Japan’s natural monument. ”Kasuga Taisha”, shrine built surrounded by nature with its vermillion gates. The 1300 year-old legend still lives on to this day.

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Grand architecture

The Buddha statue is 14.9 m tall, enabling you to just see the Buddha’s face when you look up. Todaiji is home to the ”Birushanah Buddha”, the most famous Buddha in Japan, the Buddha of Nara. Kinshuji, the origin of Todaiji was built in 728. In 743 Emperor Shomu issued a decree for the rearing of the Buddha. When it was completed, the ceremony to consecrate a newly made Buddha statue was held in 752. This was 200 years afer Buddhism was introduced to Japan.
Todaiji was built during the times of the Tenpyo culture. Tenpyo culture refers to the culture of Buddhism that prospered during the Nara period. Politics were influenced heavily from Tang, and this was the period where culture unique to Japan was being developed. Todaiji is the full reflection of this trend, and in 1998, it was designated as Unesco’s World Heritage as a part of the Cultural asset to the old capital Nara.

Traditional events that never fade

There are events at Todaiji that have been succeeded for over 1250 years. It is referred to as ”shunie” or ”omizu tori” but officially it is a memorial service called ”juichimen kahou”.
It is an event where the monk prays for the nation’s prosperity and people’s happiness by confession and repent on behalf of the people to the ”Juichimen Kanzenon Bosatsu” which is worshipped at the Nigatsudo, Todaiji. 11 chosen monks head toward Nigatsudo, their pathway lit by the flames of torches. The sacred torches are lit towards the Nigatsudo everyday from the 1st of March to the 14th. On the 12th an ascetic practice by the well, ”wakasai” is conducted, fetching ”okouzui,” sacred water offered to the Kannon.
Nakata observed the ”shunie”. In the solemn ambience of early spring, the flames of the torches swayed in the darkness.

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Along with the transfer of Heijo-kyo

The construction of Yakushiji started in 680 under orders from Emperor Tenmu. It was originally located in Fujiwarakyo in Asuka, but was transferred later to Nishinokyo upon transfer of the capital, Heijokyo.
What is worshipped in the highest degree are the 3 statues comprising Yakushi at the main hall. Yakushi Nyorai is in the center, with Nikko Bosatsu and Gakko Bosatsu on either side. They are famous Buddhist statues, representing Buddhist sculptures of the Nara period, completing the unique traditional style, though having been influenced by Rikucho and Tang. It shows precise duplication of the round features of the human body, not at all fancy or lavish as other art of the Asuka period.

Becoming familiar with aromatic scents

Recently many artists hold concerts at Yakushiji and draw attention, but something else that is famous here are the ”aromatic ceremonies” called ”monkou”. Nakata participated in this ceremony.
Aromatic wood that had been used in Buddhist rituals are lighted, and the aroma is enjoyed. It is said to have started in 600, being a unique Japanese tradition. It is not the same as incense, which is lit directly, but most of the time the thinly cut aroma wood is placed on ashes in a furnace called ”monkoro”, and the fragrance is savored.
It is not as common compared to tea ceremony and flower arrangement, but the aroma that floats from the furnace can be precisely described by the word, ”hearing”. You may see that this is the kind of sensitive subtlety that has cultivated and formed Japanese culture.

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