A town rich in food, enjoying the bounty of the sea and mountains

Located about 4 hours from Sapporo and about 1 hour from Hakodate, Morimachi is in an area rich in nature in southern Hokkaido, bordering Uchiura Bay andKomagatake Mountain on theWatashima Peninsula. The town was originally formed through the merger of two towns, Mori-machi and Sunahara-machi, and has been active in agriculture and fishing since ancient times. In the past, many fishermen from the surrounding areas came to the town to work in search of herring, one of the town’s fisheries resources. Today, oyster and scallop farming is also practiced, and along with the local delicacy “ika-meshi” (squid rice), is one of the town’s representative specialties.

Morimachi is also a treasure trove of delicious agricultural products. The town used to be known as a major producer of watermelons and melons, and has also produced rice, beans, and a variety of other agricultural products. The region is also known for its pumpkins, which are the best in the country, and Miyako Pumpkin (Miyako nankin) has earned the title of Japan’s best pumpkin production area. Miyayoi Farm grows “Kuririn,” a pumpkin with thick flesh as sweet as chestnuts. The farm’s acreage is as large as eight times the size of the Tokyo Dome.

Aiming for pesticide-free and organic cultivation from early on

The pumpkin grower at Miyoi Farm is the second generation, Mr. Seiji Akii. He inherited the farm from his father, who had grown watermelons and melons, when he was 20 years old. That was exactly 45 years ago. At that time, the term “organic farming” did not even exist, but he started growingvegetableswithout pesticides in order to “grow safe and secure vegetables that had never been grown before. That was also a history of battles against pests and diseases.

Using chemical fertilizers, which promote crop growth, makes growing vegetables easier, but it also makes them more susceptible to disease. Therefore, Mr. Akai took the plunge and began growing vegetables without chemical fertilizers. Although organic cultivation is now being used by many people due to growing interest in food, he says, “At the time, I could not find any farming methods that could be used as a reference, so I had no choice but to go forward by hand.

Continuing to focus on soil cultivation that makes the most of the ecosystem

So Mr. Akai flew out to any place where he heard of pesticide-free production. Everywhere he went, he heard the same thing: “Soil preparation” was important. He told me that the only way to produce pesticide-free vegetables was to use cattle manure or chicken manure. However, there was no one who could teach him how to make soil from scratch, and Mr. Akai’s doubts deepened. The town of Mori, where he lives, is rich in nature, even if it is not cultivated. Leaves scattered in the forest fall on the soil, are decomposed by microorganisms, become humus, are stored as nutrients, the trees absorb the nutrients again, and the dissolved minerals flow to the sea. I thought that since there is such a natural cycle in the ecosystem, we should be able to incorporate this cycle into the soil of our fields. Recalling his hometown, Uchiura Bay, also known as Eruption Bay, Mr. Akii thought that minerals were found in the sea, and he came up with the idea of using seaweed and barnacles that adhere to scallop shells when they are cultivated as minerals in the soil of his fields. Through further trial and error, he worked on composting the sea minerals.

Encounter with a new pumpkin “Kuririn

As mentioned earlier, Morimachi, a land of volcanic ash, was a popular area for growing watermelons and melons. However, there was competition from other production areas, and a new crop was needed to stand out from the crowd. The average annual temperature in Morimachi is 7-8℃, and even in February, the coldest month, it is -7℃. The temperature in Moricho is relatively mild, even for Hokkaido, where some places record -15°C in winter, but the temperature difference between day and night is large. The greater the temperature difference between day and night, thesweeter the pumpkins and potatoesbecome, as they quickly convert starch into sugar. Morimachi has always been a good place to grow sweet pumpkins.

Mr. Akii was just as particular about finding the right variety for his fields as he was about cultivating the soil. Miyako pumpkin,” a local specialty, is also a delicious variety, but it requires some ingenuity in cultivation, as the flower stalks change depending on weather conditions. While searching for a pumpkin with added value that could not be found elsewhere, they came across an experimental variety called “Kuririn. It had thick flesh, an appetizing dark yellow color, a hokuhokku taste, and surprising sweetness. Unlike any other variety he had ever seen, Mr. Akai thought, “I want to grow this pumpkin. Since then, in cooperation with a seed company, he has continued to experiment with “Kuririn,” and it now accounts for 100% of the pumpkins produced at his farm.

Ripening Achieves Guinness-Level High Sugar Content

In addition to its vast fields, Miyoshi Plantation also has a ripening and processing plant. In the ripening room, which consists of three plastic greenhouses, the temperature inside the greenhouses is raised up to 50°C to speed up the sugaring process of pumpkins harvested in August and September, creating a cold temperature difference.

The method of storing “overwintering cabbage” and “overwintering potatoes” in Hokkaido is well known as a unique storage method that utilizes the effect of low temperatures to increase the sugar content of the vegetables themselves to protect themselves from freezing. However, since the pumpkins at Miyoshi Farm are not subject to natural temperature differences during the harvest season, the farm has developed a method of ripening pumpkins by creating artificial temperature differences.

Of course, if the starch content of the pumpkin is not high, it will not be sweet, no matter how much it is ripened, so it is up to the growers to produce pumpkins with a high starch content.

Even if the minimum nighttime temperature is 25°C, we can increase the temperature difference by storing the pumpkins in a 50°C ripening room,” says Akii. Two weeks of storage in the ripening room quickly converts starch into sugar and removes moisture, further condensing the sweetness of the kuririn. At the processing plant, pumpkin paste is made after harvest.

According to Mr. Akai, “Kuririn” is not only sweet, but also free of acetic acid, or nitric acid, which causes an astringent taste. Therefore, the sweetness of the pumpkin itself can be enjoyed without the need for flavoring such as cinnamon, which is commonly used in pumpkin sweets. It is understandable why famous confectionery stores across the country all use “Kuririn” from Miyoshi Plantation.

Connecting Pesticide-Free and Organic Cultivation to New Leaders

Food” and “energy” are essential for human life, says Mr. Akii. He also says that abnormal weather conditions such as global droughts are no longer limited to agriculture. In Japan, which relies on imports for most of its food and has a low self-sufficiency rate, even corn, which is used to feed livestock, is currently obtained from overseas. The raw materials for chemical fertilizers also come from overseas,” he said. If this situation continues, it will not just be a matter of raising prices; we will run out of supplies and ‘food’ to eat,” he says, expressing a sense of crisis.

In this sense, Mr. Akai believes that Hokkaido, his hometown, has an important role to play. He is thankful for the natural life that exists in Hokkaido and will continue to struggle to maintain this environment. He also believes that his role is to pass on to future generations sustainable, recycling-oriented farming techniques, such as microbe-assisted soil cultivation, while preserving the natural cycle of nature.

In fact, farmers from all walks of life flock to Mr. Akai for advice. Many of them are thinking about the future of not only pumpkins but also lettuce and asparagus, and many of them are of the younger generation. Young people with no farming experience are especially enthusiastic about research. For example, Hiroki Hasegawa, who runs a pesticide-free, organic asparagus farm in Hiyama County, is a representative of Jet Farm, a farm specializing in asparagus. He has an upright attitude toward learning and a flexible way of thinking, so he quickly absorbs what I teach him. The result is evident in the asparagus he produces. Very tasty asparagus.”

Delivering farm products to the whole country that anyone can eat with peace of mind

The days of simply continuing to grow specialty crops are coming to an end.

The time is coming to an end when it is no longer enough to just continue to grow specialty crops, but to ensure “food safety and security” through organic cultivation and “quality” that is sweeter and tastier than any other variety. Mr. Akai realized the importance of these two points at an early stage, and it can be said that he was truly a man of great foresight.

After more than 30 years of struggling since we started pesticide-free cultivation, we have finally reached the ideal quality of pumpkin,” he says. Once a year, we have Kuririn analyzed by a specialized institution, and our pumpkins have almost no nitrate ions left in them, and their antioxidant power is outstandingly high,” he said.

Nitrate ions exist everywhere in nature and are essential for the growth of vegetables, but when taken into the human body, they change into sulfurous acid, which can cause poisoning symptoms, and it is recommended that infants and the elderly in particular avoid excessive intake. Antioxidant power, as you know, is the ability to inhibit and remove the effects of active oxygen, which can cause fatigue and aging. The data supports that “Kuririn” is not only delicious but also good for the human body.

Consumers’ demands for food safety and security continue to grow,” says Akai.

Organic agriculture that takes into consideration the environment and health will be one of the pillars supporting the future of food in Japan. Mr. Akei, who generously shares his techniques with younger farmers in the hope of providing many people with farm products that not only he but also their loved ones can eat with peace of mind, makes me feel as if I could see a bright future for agriculture in Japan.

The post Kuririn,” Japan’s sweetest organic pumpkin from Miyoshi-no-en, born from the soil and ripening of hometown blessings/Hokkaido Mori-machi first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Rare environment for cabbage production

Otari Village in Nagano Prefecture, located on the border with Niigata Prefecture, is one of the world’s most popular mountain resorts, where, along with the neighboring village of Hakuba, many people come to enjoy the finest powder snow. Iori Village, located in a corner of Kotani Village, is a marginal community of 10 houses with a radius of about 200 meters where only about 20 people live. Here, a rare cabbage is cultivated using a very unique method.
Types of Cabbages Produced in Kotani Village
There are three main types of cabbage: spring cabbage, which has tender leaves and is distributed in spring; cold cabbage, which is distributed throughout the year; and special cabbage such as purple cabbage. The cabbage grown in Kotani Village is the cold cabbage, but it is a little different from the norm: it is usually planted before the Bon Festival in August and harvested in November or December, but here they grow “snow cabbage,” waiting until the fields are covered with snow to harvest it. While there are cabbages throughout Japan that are harvested and buried under snow, the most distinctive feature of this cabbage is that it is not harvested, but instead is left to overwinter in the 1.5-meter-high snow cover with its roots spread out. The cabbage is dug up from the snow and harvested for shipment only during a one-month period from mid-January to mid-February every year.

Yukiwari cabbage is ideal for recipes that enjoy its sugar content and texture

Cabbage in the snow is very sweet because it stores sugar content and matures without freezing while still alive. While normal cabbage has a sugar content of 4 to 5 degrees, cabbage in snow has a sugar content of more than 8 degrees, or even as high as 10 degrees. Some of the larger ones can weigh close to 5 kg as they grow even more in the snow. The core of the cabbage, which is the sweetest part of the cabbage, has a refreshing sweetness without any bitterness, just like corn. The crispy texture of the cabbage leaves, which have been well firmened by the cold snow, is also a unique characteristic of this cabbage.
Yuki-wari cabbage is best served raw in salads.
The best way to eat it is raw as a salad. In addition, you can also cut it into wedges and serve it as tempura. A quick sprinkle of salt will add even more sweetness to the cabbage, changing the way you think of cabbage. It is a taste of the season that can only be found during this limited time of the year.

Helping Each Other Across Age Groups Fosters New Strengths

The Iori Agricultural Production Cooperative, which grows the cabbage, was established in 2005 by a group of friends living in the village of Iori. In Kotani Village, it has long been common for farmers to be “dual-income farmers. The farmers had been doing farming individually, but they decided to start a cooperative because they thought it would be more fun if they could all work together. Their stance was to revitalize the aging community. When we first started, all the members were living on pensions, so we thought it would be sufficient if we could earn enough money as a by-product to pay the members’ bills. Then, little by little, young people and people from outside the prefecture started coming in, and it became our goal to work together with everyone, old and young, and to pass on the techniques taught to us by our elders without ceasing. Young people support their elders with their wisdom. We want to cherish an environment where this kind of mutual support occurs naturally. says Kazuyuki Fujiwara, the head of the cooperative.

Reviving Disappearing Local Specialties

The cooperative members jointly harvest and ship wild vegetables in the spring, mini-tomatoes in the summer, rice in the fall, and cabbage in the snow in the winter. In fact, at the time the cooperative was established, the productivity of the cabbage was not commensurate with the labor required to dig it up from under the snow and harvest it, and there were no more growers in the surrounding areas. The members of the cooperative revived it in the hope of producing something that would become a local specialty. They decided to name the cabbage “yukiwari cabbage” after “yukiwari grass,” an interactive exchange facility located in the village that serves as a visitor center and a place of relaxation for the cooperative members.
When the business was first revived, labor costs were high in comparison to the labor required, and the business was in the red every year. The company wondered when to quit the business. The price of cabbage was only slightly higher than that of regular cabbage, and the company struggled to differentiate itself from other cabbages, which was also a blow to the business. One day, however, a local newspaper interviewed the company, which brought it to the attention of the public, and it was subsequently picked up by many media outlets. The company switched its sales channels from being mainly local to national and revised its pricing. The idea of delivering cabbage and snow packed in Styrofoam was also well received, and the product has become a popular item that attracts a large number of customers, from consumers in urban areas to restaurants nationwide. The result of more than ten years of working together to revive the “Yukiwari Cabbage” and keeping its flame burning has finally borne fruit, and the product has grown into a specialty of the Iori community.

A village where people share the same values of happiness

In Iori village, people of all ages and both sexes share the same values and support each other as if they were a company organization, sometimes like a big family. Their motto is to maintain the status quo, and they have no desire to make a lot of money. When they sell a lot and make a profit, they are happy to go on trips together and eat delicious food, which encourages them to work hard. Above all, each and every one of them enjoys their lives, hoping to preserve the wisdom and skills that would otherwise be forgotten, and the beauty of the satoyama. If more people come to know the good qualities of Iori village, fall in love with it, and move in, it will be another source of happiness.
We listen to the voices of people of all ages and genders, incorporate their ideas, and learn to pass on the wisdom and techniques cultivated by our predecessors.
Actions to revitalize depopulated areas are being created one after another from a small village of only 10 households.

The post “Yukiwari Cabbage” growing 1.5 meters under snow “Iori Agricultural Production Cooperative” first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Daisen Broccoli” has a strong sweet taste and little bitterness. It is the pride of Oyama Town, which boasts the largest area planted in western Japan. Masayuki Hayashibara, president of andAgri Co., Ltd. is working hard to promote Oyama broccoli, following in the footsteps of his predecessor who contributed to the establishment of the brand.

Rich soil nurtured by Tottori’s famous mountain “Daisen

Daisen Town in Tottori Prefecture is a town rich in nature, with the Sea of Japan to the north and Mount Daisen, the highest peak in the Chugoku region, to the south. From the sea to the foot of Mt. Daisen is only about 20 minutes by car, making it an environment where one can enjoy the bounty of both the sea and the mountains. The fields extend from the coastal area at an elevation of 0 m to the semi-cool area at an elevation of approximately 600 m. Because of its location at the foot of the mountain, there is a large difference in temperature between daytime and nighttime. In addition, the black soil from the volcanic ash of Mt. Daisen is rich in organic matter and well drained, making it ideal for broccoli cultivation.

History of Oyama Broccoli

Broccoli cultivation began in Oyama Town around 1970. Until then, the town’s main crop had been rice to increase the rice harvest, but as rice became scarce, the town had to grow other crops. At that time, they turned their attention to broccoli. The black soil of Mt. Daisen, the temperature difference between day and night, and the abundance of water made broccoli cultivation a perfect fit. Broccoli cultivation was a perfect fit.

However, as they began to grow one type of crop in the same area in an effort to increase efficiency, they gradually developed continuous cropping problems (i.e., the nutrients in the soil become unbalanced as they continue to grow the same crop), and they struggled to cope with the problems. In fact, rice cultivation in the rice paddies that had been practiced until then did not cause continuous crop failure because the water had a variety of nutrients, so the nutrients in the soil were less biased.

Furthermore, cultivation gradually slowed down, affected by the increase in imported crops.
It was Masayuki’s father, Hiroshi, who moved to reform the situation.

Rebuilding the brand through quality control

In order to differentiate broccoli from imported products and create a unique Oyama characteristic, we set about improving the shipping method. Broccoli loses its freshness from the moment it is harvested, and the leaves wilt, so imported products do not have leaves on them. In order to show that broccoli is fresh, we began shipping it with the leaves attached for the first time in Japan. In addition, freshly harvested broccoli is wrapped in freshness-preserving film and vacuum-pre-cooled before shipment to maintain freshness. In addition, the company is also using its experience in cultivation to provide guidance to new farmers. They have also established a system to ensure that producers in the Daisen area can ship their products with the same quality.

Their efforts bore fruit in 2012 when they obtained a “regional collective trademark,” and in 2018 they were registered as “Daisen Broccoli®” under the government’s “Geographical Indications System,” commonly known as GI. The characteristics of this product are its sweetness and low bitterness, thorough quality control, and the fact that it can be grown almost year-round by taking advantage of the fields at various elevations in the town, enabling a stable supply to the market. The town boasts the largest planted area in western Japan by municipality, and the Daisen broccoli brand has become widespread.

Establishment of “andAgri” to connect traditions and producers’ thoughts

His son, Masayuki, followed in the footsteps of Hirotoshi, who made a major contribution to the acquisition of the GI certification. With his sights set on becoming a broccoli farmer, after graduating from college he gained experience in logistics and sales at a local fruit and vegetable market, and started farming at the age of 29. Furthermore, two years later, in 2019, he established andAgri, Inc. He increased the area of his farm from the original 7 hectares to more than 50 hectares to achieve more stable cultivation.
The company’s name “and” means “connecting” and “agri” means “agriculture. We are here today because of the traditions of this region and the history of the producers. We did not forget them, and we wanted to connect them to the future.

Daisen Broccoli Cultivation in Harmony with Nature

There are many varieties of broccoli, ranging from the early variety, which can be harvested in three months, to the late variety, which takes six months or more. andAgri has 10 to 15 varieties that can be harvested almost year-round, except for August and September, when it is in midsummer. Masayuki recommends the medium-early “Keirin” variety, which has firm, crisp buds. He is also working on varieties with different textures and sweetness, such as “Kirakira Midori,” which uses 70% less chemical fertilizer than normal cultivation and has less bitterness and bitterness, and “Sweet Broccoli,” which has a sugar content of about 12 degrees and is characterized by its fruit-like sweetness.

Broccoli has the advantage of being easier to rotate than other vegetables because it can be harvested in a short period of time, but it is also more difficult because it is grown in the open, without the use of plastic greenhouses.

The winds blowing from the Sea of Japan are strong, and in coastal fields, we have to consider the effects of salt damage. There are also typhoons and snowfalls, so it is important to plan which fields, when, and which varieties to plant. Daily observation is also essential,” he says, “by watching the growth of each broccoli closely, applying additional fertilizer, and gathering soil.

The hard work behind the harvest and the secret of its delicious taste

In fact, what we usually eat is a collection of buds of broccoli before the flowers bloom. If they grow beyond the size suitable for shipping, yellow flowers like rape blossoms will bloom. The optimum harvest period for early summer picking is two to three days, so harvesting must be completed within this period.

However, in order to maintain freshness for shipping, harvesting must be done during cooler temperatures, usually between 10:00 p.m. and 9:00 a.m. In addition, even if the same variety is planted in one field at the same time, there are individual differences in growth, and it is not possible to harvest all at once. It is also difficult to secure the necessary manpower, as the farmers need to check the growth of each crop every day to see if it is big enough to be shipped, and harvest it by hand.

We have prospective farmers who come to our farm, but when they experience harvesting, they often say, ‘It’s harder than I thought it would be. It is true that it is not something that is easy to do physically. Even so, it is very rewarding when they produce the broccoli they had envisioned. That is why we are also making efforts to create an environment where young people can work with ease, by discussing cultivation conditions with the team and sharing know-how from local growers,” he says.

How to Eat Tasty Broccoli

Broccoli is highly nutritious, containing vitamins A and C, dietary fiber, and potassium. When purchasing broccoli at the supermarket, it is best to select broccoli with firm, tight buds, as shown in the photo of broccoli buds above. Don’t forget to check the cut ends of the stems, as white ones are not as fresh as they should be.

Once purchased, broccoli can be cut into bite-size pieces and frozen for freshness at any time.

Broccoli that appear in the spring are those that were sown in the fall. The broccoli that comes out in the spring are sown in the fall, so they are sweeter after the harsh winter in the San’in region, so be sure to compare them.

Broccoli recipes that go beyond boiling

Broccoli is often boiled and eaten with mayonnaise, but we were also given a recipe directly from a farmer. The first one is “Shrimp, salted kelp and broccoli salad. In a frying pan, dry-roast small shrimps until fragrant. Then, add boiled broccoli and mix with sesame oil and salted kelp. This dish is perfect as a side dish or snack.

Broccoli fritters” are made by dipping hard-boiled broccoli in pancake mix and deep frying. You can enjoy the sweetness of the broccoli as it is, or it goes great with ketchup or mayo soy sauce. This recipe is also popular with children because it can be used as a snack.

Furthermore, if you roast broccoli raw in the oven, you can enjoy its rich flavor without losing any of its nutritional value and sweetness.

There are actually many varieties of broccoli, with varying degrees of firmness, texture, and boiling time. However, at present, broccoli is only known as “broccoli,” and it is difficult to tell the difference in flavor depending on the variety and harvest time. In the future, I would like to go one step further and convey the appeal of broccoli,” says Masayuki. Masayuki plans to focus on information dissemination from producers.

I want to challenge myself without setting limits.

In broccoli cultivation, which deals with nature, there is no standard that says, “If you do it this way, it will definitely work. Even if you grow broccoli at the same time and under the same conditions, the results can vary greatly. That is why it is so exciting to see the delicious broccoli you have always wanted to grow. It is also interesting to know why the results are so different, and to be able to improve on them through trial and error with your friends, saying, “Let’s do this next year.

In Oyama Town, farmers are aging, and the number of farmers who have left farming and vacant farmland is increasing. We would like to be on the receiving end of these people and support the local community so that the farmland is not destroyed. I also want to challenge myself without setting any goals or limits for myself as to ‘how far I can go as a broccoli farmer. I would also like to communicate to consumers that Oyama broccoli is not just broccoli, but that it is valuable because it is Oyama broccoli.

The post Linking local tradition and future with Oyama broccoli. andAgri’s Masayuki Hayashibara first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Gunma Prefecture is a famous producer of konnyaku potatoes, boasting the nation’s No. 1 production volume. It has established such a firm position that it can be said with certainty that “Gunma is the place to be when it comes to konjac. One of the best handmade “raw potato konjac” is produced at Ikata Farm in Shibukawa City, the “home of konjac. The secret to its delicious taste lies in the unchanged production method and the commitment to the fantastic “Harunakuro” variety.

Gunma’s konnyaku potato accounts for 90% of the national market share

Located approximately 8 km north of Shibukawa City in the center of Gunma Prefecture. To the west is Mt. Komochi, which rises 1,296 meters above sea level, and to the east flows the Tone River, a magnificent first-class river known as one of the three major rivers in Japan. The Kamishirai district, located on a terrace on the west bank of the river, has a long and narrow topography and was once known as “Komochi Village. Ikkata Farm has been growing konnyaku potatoes here for a long time.

Ikkata Noen has been a konjac farmer for generations. Osamu Ubukata, who took over the baton from his predecessor who established the foundation of a consistent konjac business from cultivation to processing and sales, is in fact the sixth generation head of the farm. The konjac factory, which consists of a warehouse, a processing plant, and a direct sales office, is located on a site with the towering Mt.

Gunma Prefecture is a major producer of konnyaku sweet potatoes, boasting the nation’s largest harvest and more than 90% of the market share. In addition to one of the longest hours of sunlight in Japan, the prefecture is characterized by well-drained volcanic ash soil deposited by volcanic eruptions. The slopes in the mountainous areas, especially in Shibukawa City, have good drainage, and the summers are not too hot, while in winter the air is dry due to the “kara-kaze” winds that are characteristic of Gunma. These natural conditions are ideal for konnyaku potato cultivation.

Konnyaku potato is a delicate crop that is difficult to cultivate

As Mr. Ubukata says, “konnyaku potato is very delicate.” Although it has been cultivated for a long time, it was once called “lucky ball,” which could be harvested if one was lucky, because it was very susceptible to disease. Even if one tried to improve the variety, the existing “native” and “Bicchu” varieties had similar characteristics and could not be crossed, so “Shina” varieties were imported from China, and after numerous trials, a variety that was easy to grow and highly productive was successfully created. As a result, he succeeded in creating a variety that was easy to cultivate and highly productive. The following improved varieties were born: “Harunakuro,” “Akagi-Odama,” “Myogiyutaka,” and “Miyamasari. Currently, the disease-resistant “Akagi-Odama” and the new “Miyamasari” are the main varieties grown in Japan, and together they account for more than 97% of domestic production.

Incidentally, the names of the improved varieties are all derived from the three Jomo Sanzan mountains representing Gunma: Mount Haruna, Mount Akagi, and Mount Myogi. Shibukawa City in Gunma Prefecture is home to Japan’s only konjac research institute. The fact that Gunma has been engaged in steady research to improve the variety in this area seems to be a major driving force behind the fact that Gunma has become Japan’s top producer of konjac potatoes.

Once harvested, they are replanted again, taking three years to finally reach full maturity.

It takes as long as three years to harvest konnyaku potatoes. Moreover, it is not possible to leave them planted in the field for three years. This is because konjac potatoes are not good in cold weather and cannot survive the winter. Because they freeze in the soil, they need to be dug up temporarily from the field and carefully stored in a cellar during the winter. Then, in spring, they are planted back in the field and dug up and stored again before it gets too cold. This is a very time-consuming and labor-intensive process.

Focusing on the rare “Harunakuro” variety

In addition, the oldest hybrid, “Harunakuro,” is grown at Ikata Farm. Since this variety is susceptible to disease and difficult to cultivate, many farmers who valued yield shifted to growing the aforementioned “Akagi-Odama” and “Miyamasari” varieties. Production of Harunakuro has continued to decline, and now accounts for less than 1% of the national production, making it a rare variety.

Why does Ubukata Farm continue to insist on growing the “Harunakuro,” which is so difficult to cultivate? The reason is that the quality of the “raw sweet potato konjac” processed at the company’s factory has been carefully preserved as if it were a treasure.

The more konnyaku potato varieties are improved, the more resistant to disease they become, and the more they specialize in ease of cultivation and high yield, the more they tend to neglect improvements in taste. The “Akagi-Odama” variety, which was improved after the “Harunakuro” variety, and the new “Miyamasari” variety have high viscosity, but the particles of dietary fiber called “glucomannan,” the main component of konnyaku potato, are coarse. In other words, the older improved varieties are more difficult to handle, but they are more flavorful and smooth when processed.

Nama imo konjac” handmade using traditional methods

The craftsmanship of hand-stretching that influences the quality.

Taking charge of all these processes is Mr. Namikata’s mother, who is turning 73 years old. As a veteran of 35 years in this field, Namikata Farm’s “Nama-imo Konnyaku” truly relies on her expertise alone. Depending on the size and condition of the fresh potatoes used, she adjusts the amount of water, the consistency of kneading, the timing and quantity of limestone used for coagulation, relying on her own senses cultivated over the years, and freely adjusting as needed.

According to his mother, when made with “Haruna Kuro” potatoes, a mysterious phenomenon can be observed during hand-stretching. It is said that the surface shines and sparkles like glass beads. However, when made with “Miyama Masari” potatoes in the same way, it turns cloudy and does not exhibit the same brilliance. “I don’t know why, but it’s really beautiful,” she says.

One of its characteristics is that the taste permeates well and there is no “smell.”

Thus, the “Nama-imo Konnyaku,” made without sparing time and effort, has a unique texture and elasticity compared to the smooth texture of konnyaku made from powder, making it rich in flavor. Due to the abundance of air bubbles, it absorbs flavors well, significantly enhancing dishes such as simmered dishes and oden. Moreover, it lacks the typical “smell” associated with konnyaku, making it easy to eat. “Because we thoroughly soak it in well water overnight to remove bitterness,” explains the reason.

Mass-produced konnyaku sold inexpensively in supermarkets often lacks proper de-bittering. While edible without de-bittering, it leaves an odor and affects the final dish. The main culprits for this bitterness are the bitterness from the raw konnyaku potatoes and the odor from the coagulant used in the manufacturing process. De-bittering removes the bitterness and odor, while also removing excess moisture to enhance its firm texture and flavor. Namikata Farm’s “Nama-imo Konnyaku,” with its thoroughly de-bittered process, stands out from mass-produced konnyaku. Particularly, Mr. Namikata takes pride in the taste and texture of his “shirataki,” which has garnered rave reviews, even earning praise as “exquisite” from visiting konnyaku manufacturing companies.

“I want to gradually expand while preserving the unchanged taste.”

This traditional method, however, makes mass production challenging. Furthermore, relying solely on his mother to continue the production is nearing its physical limits. In reality, Namikata Farm’s “Nama-imo Konnyaku” is hardly circulated in the market and is only available in a few limited places besides the farm’s direct sales outlets.

The current challenge is to firmly pass on the skills possessed by his mother to a successor. “I’m already overwhelmed with farm work. I’ve tried several times, but I can’t get the hand-stretching right, and it ends up becoming too hard. It seems processing isn’t my forte,” Mr. Namikata says with a wry smile. In contrast, Mr. Namikata’s wife, who has finished raising their children, is currently apprenticing under his mother. Swift succession of the techniques is eagerly awaited.

In an era where mass production is the norm, Namikata Farm continues to preserve its unchanged taste through traditional handcrafting. They insist on keeping the hand-stretching technique within the family, without involving outsiders. Their steadfast dedication is reflected in the exceptional taste and quality of the “Nama-imo Konnyaku” born from the elusive “Haruna Kuro.” Mr. Namikata, ever the steady individual, expresses his desire to gradually increase the quantity of processed products. There is great anticipation placed upon his words.

The post From the cultivation of the fantastic “Harunakuro” variety to popular processed products. Konnyaku Farmer “Ubukata Farm” first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Dune Rakkyo” has a crunchy texture that grows because of the sand dunes. In 2016, it was certified as a “Geographical Indication (GI)” product, which protects specialty products that make the most of regional characteristics, and its name continues to spread.

Fukube-cho, Tottori City, where Tottori Sand Dunes are right in front of you.

The Tottori Sand Dunes, stretching approximately 16 km east to west along the coast of the Sea of Japan in northern Tottori Prefecture, is a major production area of rakkyo. Of this area, only about 2 km is visited by many people as a sightseeing spot. The rest of the sand dune area is covered with fields of cucumber. Rakkyo is easy to grow even in poor soil, and there are many places in Japan where it is cultivated in sandy soil. In Fukube Town, about 60 farmers are engaged in the cultivation of rakkyo, and the amount of rakkyo shipped is one of the highest in Japan.

Jewel of the Dunes, Dune Rakkyo

One of the characteristics of dune cucumbers is their crunchy texture. In land with high moisture and nutrients, the fruit of rakkyo tends to grow larger, and the thickness of the inner skin (inner scales) and outer skin (outer scales) differs. On the other hand, in the Tottori Sand Dunes, less moisture in the soil is loaded, resulting in the growth of rakkyo with thinner individual skins and tighter flesh. The long oval-shaped variety known as the camel type is a good match, and the more even the thickness of the inner and outer scales is, the more crisp it becomes, so that the rakkyo from the Tottori Sand Dunes grown in this harsh environment has a surprisingly light texture.

In addition, when grown in areas with low nutrients, rakkyo tends to become pale in color. It is precisely because the Tottori Sand Dunes have low water and fertilizer retention capacity that pure white, clear, and beautiful rakkyo can be grown. The shiny, sparkling appearance of the radishes is the reason why they are nicknamed the “Jewel of the Dunes.

100 Years of History of Dune Rakkyo

Mr. Kagawa, a producer of dune cucumbers, says, “Actually, the history of dune cucumbers is very old. Mr. Kagawa is a veteran grower of Sunaoka Rakkyo, who has been cultivating it while working as a company employee.

There is a theory that it was brought back to Japan by participants in the Edo period (1603-1867), but it was not until the Taisho period (1912-1926) that full-scale cultivation began. Until then, they had grown pears, watermelons, and other fruits, but the fruits did not grow large due to a lack of water retention capacity. So, after experimenting with various crops, they found that rakkyo was suited for this purpose. Later, from the 1960s, processing and other activities began to take place, and the business became even more prosperous,” he said.

In 2014, it celebrated 100 years since the start of sales, and in 2016, “Tottori Sand Dune Rakyo and Fukube Sand Dune Rakyo” were registered under the “Geographical Indications Protection System (GI),” a system to protect crops grown with the blessings of the land as local intellectual property. GI is a system to protect the intellectual property of a region. The quality of the product has been recognized by the government, and the product has been successfully branded as “Tottori is known for its dune-rakyo”.

Cultivation of rakkyo under harsh conditions

The rakkyo plants are planted by hand, one by one, from July to September. In October, the plants come into bloom, and their pretty reddish-purple flowers spread like a carpet across the Tottori Sand Dunes.

It then slowly grows in the sand and winters under the snow in December. When planted, the cucumbers grow from one to six to eight.

The structure of the cucumber is like a small onion, with the leaves growing on top of the sand and the main body growing in the sand.

Therefore, it is difficult to judge whether they are diseased or growing well. We have to judge by looking at the leaves, fertilize, disinfect, and control insects. We don’t know how the year is going to turn out until we harvest the crop, so every year is like the first time for me,” says Kagawa.

Faceting work requiring experience

The most difficult time is during the harvest season from May to June. Every day, 1,300 kg of rakkyo must be dug up and the roots and stems cut by hand.

When shipping, they are divided into two types: “rooted” or “rooted” rakkyo, in which only the unneeded stems are removed and shipped as bundles, and “washed” rakkyo, in which not only the stems but also the roots are cut off, pickled in salt, and shipped. Since both types of processing are done by hand, each farmer must gather several dozen staff members called “Kiriko” (cutters). In particular, the processing of washed rakkyo requires a skilled workforce, as each ball must be divided into individual pieces and cut into appropriate sizes.

It takes time to get used to the work, and it is hard to gather the “kiriko” because the work is only done for one month. It takes time to get used to it, and the smell is tough. If we don’t do something about this, I don’t think we will be able to attract more young people,” he says.

He cuts the rakkyo through a rapeseed knife set up on his desk. Since they are paid by the amount they cut, they need to accumulate a certain amount of experience to earn money. Since the number of veteran cutters is decreasing, the company is exploring the possibility of mechanizing the cutting process in cooperation with agricultural cooperatives and companies.

Recipes created by a farmer who knows all there is to know about Japanese cucumber

In order to spread the use of their lovingly cultivated cucumbers, Mr. Kagawa and his colleagues have been holding a workshop on how to make easy pickles of cucumbers. Normally, when making sweet-and-sour pickled curakyo, it is necessary to soak the curakyo in salt water for about two weeks, but that takes a lot of time and effort. In order to make it easier for people to enjoy pickling, we teach “kantanzuke” pickling, which can be done on the same day of purchase.

The procedure is simple. First, cut the root and stem of the rakkyo and wash them under running water, rubbing them until the thin skin peels off. After sprinkling salt on the radish and washing it again, run it through hot water for 10 seconds. After draining the water, put the cucumber in a sterilized jar and pour the vinegar into the jar. The easy way to pickle cucumbers is to pickle them right at home. I would like young people to pickle curacao because it has high nutritional value. I want them to enjoy the fun of pickling by themselves,” says his wife, Saeko, who also takes the initiative in teaching the young people how to pickle their own vegetables.

I want you to eat it as the star of the show, not the supporting cast.

They also offer a variety of recipes for rakkyo with the hope that people will eat it as the main ingredient rather than as a side dish. We recommend the “Yaki-rakkyo” recipe, which can only be made with freshly harvested rakkyo. It is made by pan frying the rakkyo and quickly tossing it in a soy sauce and mirin (sweet sake and mirin) pickling sauce. It can be served hot or cold.

Other dishes that are not usually seen on the menu include “Rakki-katsu,” a deep-fried pork cutlet wrapped in sweet vinegared rakkyo and seasoned with soy bean sauce, and “Flower Rakkyo,” a refreshing dish served with ham, turnips, and shiso leaves. The main reason for this is that it is important for consumers to know simple and tasty recipes in order to encourage them to buy and eat them,” said Mr. Kato. We hope you will try them in a different way and enjoy them as the star of the show,” Mr. and Mrs. Kagawa told us.

For the Future of Japanese Rakhi Farmers

Growing rakkyo on sand dunes is not easy. Because of the lack of water retention, a large amount of fertilizer and water must be applied, and because no other crops can be grown on the dunes, disinfection work is necessary to prevent continuous cropping (i.e., the continuous production of the same crop results in unbalanced nutrients in the soil, which makes it difficult for the crop to grow).

However, except during the busy harvest season, the working hours can be adjusted, and the farmers can be independent with just one cucumber. Above all, the more work you put in, the more delicious your Rakkyo will be. The joy of harvesting the bright white, shiny, and shimmering Rakkyo is even greater when they are grown.

The number of young people is gradually increasing, but the problem is that the cutting process is manual and takes a lot of time and manpower. We are working to improve this part of the process through mechanization. I would be happy if more and more people learn how fun it is to make kyokkyo and if the number of kyokkyo farmers increases,” says Kagawa.
Sunaoka Rakkyo is beginning a new 100-year history.

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Rice has been an essential part of our food culture since rice cultivation was introduced to Japan about 3,000 years ago. However, after the outbreak of the Sino-Japanese War in 1937, rice, which had been taken for granted, was nearly lost from the tables of the common people for several years. It was during this time of food shortages that “white barley rice,” or “white barley rice,” was born.

Barley Milling Begins in Adversity

Some people still say that seeing black streaks of barley mixed in with white rice makes them feel hungry,” laughs Shigetoshi Nagasawa. Mr. Shigetoshi Nagasawa laughs. Ltd., a manufacturer of barley, glutinous barley, minor grains, and other cereal products. The company’s main product, barley, is rich in soluble and insoluble dietary fiber, which suppresses the rapid rise in blood sugar levels and improves the intestinal environment, and in recent years it has been highly regarded for its health and diet benefits. The company, which has been in business for 83 years and currently holds approximately 60% of the domestic barley production share, began as a rice milling company that produced rice for local farmers.

Let’s make wheat like white rice.

Traditionally, barley was grown mainly as a double crop from fall to spring after the rice harvest was over, but during the war, it came to be grown year-round as a substitute for rice. After World War II ended in 1945, domestic food production and imports gradually recovered. The food crisis began to dissipate, and the distribution of rice gradually began to come back to life. Barley, with its slightly yellowish, black-streaked appearance compared to white rice and the distinctive aroma of oxidized polyphenols, gradually began to be taken off the tables along with the restoration of rice distribution. My grandfather created ‘white barley rice’ as a revival product.

While many barley millers were withdrawing from the market, Shigetaro, who believed that barley was the source of health, invented the “Kyonan-type high-speed cutting machine,” which cuts barley grains in half and removes the black streaks on the surface that serve as transport channels for moisture and nutrients. In 1953, Nagasawa began selling a barley product named “Hakubaku Mai” (white barley rice) with the marketing slogan “barley that looks like white rice.

As “Hakubakumai” became popular nationwide as a revolutionary product that overturned conventional wisdom, the company name was changed to “Hakubakumai Co.

After my father took over as the second generation, he worked hard to develop the market for more readily available grain products and dried noodles to further increase sales,” he said.

After the high economic growth period of the 1960s, the company released a series of grain products, such as instant ramen noodles and flour for dumplings, which were readily available at supermarkets and convenience stores. In the 1990s, the company built an udon factory in Australia that uses only organic wheat as its raw material. As a result of this flexible product development that met the needs of the times, Hakubaku steadily increased its business performance, and in 1992, the 45th anniversary of its founding, the company changed its name to Hakubaku Co. Ltd. in 1992, the 45th anniversary of the company’s founding. To date, the company has grown into a barley refining company that has developed more than 100 different products.

We have been offering grain products that are not luxurious like steak, but are delicious and can be eaten every day.

Mr. Nagasawa smiles as he savors the taste of barley.

Not a single particle of foreign matter is allowed in.

In order to obtain safe and delicious barley, Hakuba’s product manufacturing process begins with a quality inspection that covers approximately 400 items. First, the raw materials are inspected again in detail for residual pesticides, moisture content, and any contaminants, and then multiple sorting machines are used to obtain pure barley.

Next, the barley is precisely shaved to ensure uniform cooking. After adjusting the amount of shaving in 0.01mm increments to prevent cracks in the barley grains, the grains are cut in half to remove black streaks, and the shape and color of the barley is then made to resemble that of white rice.

Barley as it is milled absorbs less moisture than white rice and is not cooked well. Therefore, to ensure that the barley is as fluffy as it would be if cooked in white rice at home, it is also pre-processed by heating with steam, cooling, and drying. After these processes, barley is finally ready for simple cooking and tasty eating.

Mr. Nagasawa puts a lot of effort into his words, saying, “We mill barley with the thought, ‘Not even a single piece of foreign matter can get into the barley. The final product is subjected to X-ray and metal detectors to remove any foreign substances, and the taste, aroma, color, and other aspects of quality are also thoroughly checked. This thorough quality control has earned the company high praise from food manufacturers, and in recent years, the company has expanded into new areas, such as supplying raw materials and manufacturing OEM products.

Delivering products to those who really want them

There was a time when sales were sluggish, but in the 2000s, minor grains were introduced on information programs, and the name “Hakubaku” became well known as a health food manufacturer.

In 2016, “glutinous barley” became a breakthrough product as a diet food. Although some major companies entered the market, no one was able to overturn our experience and track record of being at the forefront of the market as a specialized company, precisely because of our core market. In the beverage category, “Mizu-Dashi de Oishii Mugi-cha” and other barley and grain teas increased their market share, further expanding the company’s business.

In March 2023, the company released “Glutinous Barley for White Rice Lovers,” which has had its epidermis scraped away to give it a whiter color that more closely resembles white rice. The β-glucan contained in barley wraps the eaten food into a jelly-like substance and moves it slowly from the stomach to the intestines, so that it takes longer to digest and absorb. This prevents a spike in blood glucose levels, making it less likely to affect weight gain or loss. In addition, the dietary fiber content is 12.9 g, compared to 0.5 g for 100 g of white rice, making it a healthy and guilt-free food. The rice’s elastic texture was also well received and widely recognized as delicious.
However, barley, glutinous barley, and minor grains are consumed by less than 10% of the Japanese population. We believe that we must now propose a new eating habit to the remaining 90%.
For this reason, we have focused on making our products an option for people who are seeking a healthy diet, such as businessmen who eat out frequently, students who are studying hard, and people suffering from lifestyle diseases. The company’s vision for the future is to enter the food service industry and convenience store products, and to further focus on the production of processed foods such as “porridge” and “granola,” which can be easily consumed even by those living alone.

From Yamanashi to the world with our refined ideas

The location next to the Tokyo metropolitan area provides us with favorable conditions for distribution. The high quality water also enhances the quality of our products, and above all, we like our hometown, which is blessed with abundant nature. In recent years, the agricultural products produced in the prefecture and the high quality of water in the Yatsugatake and Mt. Nagasawa reiterates the value of having a production base in Yamanashi Prefecture, saying, “This trend also confirms the high potential of natural resources.

In addition, since 2012, when the Tokyo headquarters was established, the company has strengthened its efforts to recruit human resources in the Tokyo metropolitan area, which has attracted even more talented people in the marketing and product development departments. In response to the current situation, which is also spurring the development of new products, Mr. Nagasawa says, “We would like to spread awareness of barley as a functional food throughout the world while developing new products. Barley is the fifth most produced grain in the world after corn, wheat, rice, and soybeans, yet most of it is used to make beer or to feed livestock. In addition to promoting awareness of barley in Japan, where it is relatively customary to eat barley, he also emphasizes that it is essential to promote the appeal of barley in overseas markets, where food culture is different from that of Japan.

I believe that barley’s label as a “primitive, inedible grain” is the reason why this mission is so dreamy,” he said. No other company in the world struggles so earnestly to make people enjoy eating barley.

Mr. Nagasawa smiles strongly and says that adversity motivates him to keep going. Their polished technology and clean and honest thoughts will convey the “never-ending deliciousness” of grains from Yamanashi to the world.

The post “Hakubaku Co., Ltd.” – Our Passion for “Barley” Polished White first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Toyohashi City, located in the east of Aichi Prefecture on the border with Shizuoka Prefecture, is one of the leading tomato producing areas in Aichi Prefecture. In addition to the area planted and the amount of tomatoes harvested, the quality of the tomatoes, which are shipped after rigorous checks, has earned a reputation for being of high quality. Mr. Hiroshi Otake, head of the JA Toyohashi Tomato Club, one of the largest groups of greenhouse tomato growers in the Tokai region, showed us how his high-quality tomatoes are cultivated.

Toyohashi is close to the sea and has a mild climate throughout the yea

Toyohashi City, located in the eastern part of Aichi Prefecture, is a prosperous area for both open-air and greenhouse farming due to its flat land and relatively mild climate throughout the year. Especially in the southern part of Toyohashi facing the Pacific Ocean, vast farmlands were created during the postwar reconstruction period, and after the Toyokawa water supply opened in 1968, the area developed further as an agricultural area. The city’s agriculture covers about 70 crops, including vegetables, fruit trees, horticulture, and rice cultivation, and the variety and output are among the highest in Japan.

Among the vegetables grown in Toyohashi, tomatoes have seen a dramatic increase in sales thanks to branding by the growers.

One of the largest winter/spring tomato producer organizations in the Tokai region

The JA Toyohashi Tomato Club is one of the largest groups of winter/spring tomato producers in the Tokai region (tomatoes harvested in greenhouses from October to June). In order to meet the needs of consumers who want to purchase high quality, high-sugar tomatoes, the JA Toyohashi Tomato Club recorded pesticide sprays and conducted pesticide residue analysis in order to grow tomatoes that are safe and can be eaten with peace of mind.

In order to allow consumers to choose tomatoes based on sugar content, the company also branded high-sugar tomatoes, naming tomatoes with sugar content of 9 degrees or higher “Rei,” tomatoes with sugar content of 7 degrees or higher “Bi,” and tomatoes with sugar content of 6 degrees or higher “Ai.

In 2009, the company completed a new variety of mini-tomatoes that have become popular in recent years, the “Amaeki” variety, which offers both color variation and taste. The seven colors of colorful mini-tomatoes, including yellow, orange, green, chocolate, claire, claire red, and claire orange, are a delight to the consumer’s eye. The tomatoes are not only colorful, but are also highly sugared, with a sugar content of over 7 degrees, and are described as fruit-like tomatoes. The state-of-the-art glasshouses provide an optimal environment for growing tomatoes by closely controlling temperature, humidity, nutrients, and carbon dioxide levels.

Took over the family business and started farming at the age of 20

Mr. Otake took over his family’s farming business at the age of 20. The family had been growing melons and watermelons, but sales were declining, so Mr. Otake decided to start growing tomatoes. Tomato cultivation was an unknown world, so he shared information with his colleagues in the same business and worked hard through trial and error. There are more than 300 varieties of tomatoes registered in Japan. Among them, Mr. Otake mainly grows “Momotaro Next,” a large tomato variety that is hardy and can be grown for a long time.

Seeking a balance between quality and size

While high-sugar tomatoes are generally popular these days, Mr. Ohtake aims to cultivate tomatoes that are not only high in sugar content but also have a good balance with yield. Income is proportional to the yield of tomatoes, and yield is proportional to the size of the tomatoes, so a certain amount of size must be secured. However, if we pursue size, the taste will deteriorate. If consumers do not think that Toyohashi’s tomatoes are delicious, we have lost the point,” says Otake.

What kind of tomatoes are in demand today? To find out, Mr. Otake personally went to supermarkets to listen to consumers’ opinions. What he realized was that “tomatoes with high sugar content are in demand. Which variety should be cultivated? This is an issue that plagues Mr. Ohtake’s mind every year.

Sharing know-how and raising the bar for the entire subcommittee

Growers in the same jurisdiction are not rivals but comrades. One of the strengths of the JA Toyohashi Tomato Club growers, including Mr. Otake, is that they share their know-how with each other. It takes many months to grow a tomato from a seedling until it bears fruit, and the challenge can only be attempted once a year. However, 10 people can take on 10 different challenges, so 10 years’ worth of data can be obtained at once. By working together, Mr. Ohtake stresses that the value of the tomatoes they produce can be increased.

Mr. Ohtake has been growing tomatoes using “coco bags” since 2022. Coco-bag is a material for growing plants made of coconut shell, which replaces soil. It has a well-balanced combination of water retention and drainage properties, making it easy to manage. In previous hydroponic cultivation, fine control of water and fertilizers was possible, but if pathogens developed in the water itself, all tomatoes in the greenhouse would be affected. With the CocoBag, however, the spread of damage can be prevented by replacing the appropriate bag.

The CocoBag is a cube 90 cm long, 18 cm wide, and 5 cm thick. In Mr. Ohtake’s greenhouse, three tomato plants are planted in each CocoBag, for a total of approximately 8,000 tomato plants.

He shares information about this revolutionary isolated cultivation system, the CocoBag, within his section, and now 80% of the growers in the JA Toyohashi Tomato Section have adopted it. If each grower shares what they have learned from their experience, we can expand the yield and sales price of tomatoes in the entire region. Now that we have the problem of a lack of successors, the entire production area needs to cooperate to efficiently grow high quality produce. Mr. Otake thinks so.

Computer-controlled house management

Another notable feature of Mr. Otake’s greenhouses is the long stalks of his tomatoes. If you look closely, you will see that each stem is suspended high by wires. This is a technique called “high-wire cultivation,” which encourages the growth of the stems and increases yield.

Most of the operations, from wire manipulation to moisture control, are controlled by computer. Although the farmers still harvest by hand every day in May, when the harvest is at its peak, they can now open and close the greenhouse windows from their homes, which until then was surprisingly hard work. Mr. Otake laughs, “It’s a lot easier now.

Tomatoes that consumers say are delicious

Even in Toyohashi City, where agriculture is thriving, the number of farmers continues to decline. Mr. Otake attributes this to the fact that “farming has become unprofitable. Although Japan has a reputation for its high level of agricultural technology, its food self-sufficiency rate is at the lowest level compared to other major developed countries, and the amount of agricultural products imported is high even by global standards.

Since it is impossible to compete with inexpensive imported produce in terms of price, Mr. Ohtake believes that the only way to survive is to grow produce that consumers find tasty.

On the other hand, one of the measures he hopes to implement in the future is to process and sell tomatoes that do not meet the standards for size and other characteristics. When we made tomato juice from broken mini-tomatoes and had people taste it at an event, it was well received, with people saying, ‘There is no green tomato smell’ and ‘It’s sweet and tasty. We still have a lot of work to do to sell tomato juice, because we need to maintain a certain level of quality in order to commercialize it, but I hope it will play a role in helping more people learn about the deliciousness of Toyohashi tomatoes. Mr. Otake continues to envision a bright future for Toyohashi tomatoes.

The post Mr. Hiroshi Otake, a tomato farmer in Toyohashi City, Aichi Prefecture, cultivating “Rei” high-sugar tomatoes. first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Herb facility with farm and laboratory

At Simota Farm in Toride City, Ibaraki Prefecture, more than 100 kinds of herbs and a variety of vegetables are grown in a vast field of about 8 hectares. From familiar herbs such as mint, rosemary, thyme, and basil to rare herbs that are only used in certain Italian and French dishes, all are growing lush and healthy. President Masuo Shimota’s influence on Japanese agriculture and cuisine has been quite significant.
I started growing herbs about 50 years ago. I took a plane ticket to England to study agriculture, but I arrived in France. I took the wrong one because I didn’t understand the side letters at all. I went to France with an English dictionary (laughs). But when I went to France by mistake, I had a salad with a lot of herbs, and it was so delicious. I decided to grow them in Japan. Indeed, the herb tea we enjoyed while listening to President Shimoda’s story was very fresh, easy to drink, and truly delicious.

At first, the strong-smelling herb was not considered by the market, but gradually the company began to receive orders directly from chefs at famous hotels, and the rumor spread among chefs. Even now, we get a lot of chefs coming to us,” he said. There is even a famous French chef who comes here often. People ask me to make this or that, so I have more and more varieties. Some of the herbs are used only once a year in sauces.
Mr. Shimota, who is very passionate about research, once sent a letter to a famous British herb breeder, asking him to teach him how to cultivate herbs. I sent him a letter out of the blue, but he replied out of the blue and asked me to come visit him in a week (laughs). I was panicked because it came out of the blue. I went with my mother, who was wearing a kimono, to a very big place. Over the next 20 years, the Count taught me many things.

An indispensable figure in Japanese herbal

President Shimoda also insists on safe, pesticide-free and chemical-free cultivation. He believes that evidence is important to properly understand the composition of the vegetables he grows and to stabilize their taste, so he has built a laboratory on the premises that is comparable to those used by major corporations. He is also constantly researching soil and fertilizers, and gladly accepts requests from neighboring farmers to analyze their soil and crops. Many of the herbs that can now be found in supermarkets were originally produced at Simota Farm and have since spread throughout Japan. For more than 20 years, the farm has also accepted students from Indonesia to teach them about agriculture, and actively holds study sessions with neighboring farmers, generously sharing the knowledge and techniques that Shimota Farm has developed over the years. In 2015, he was awarded the Order of Merit with Green and White Ribbon in recognition of his previous achievements. President Shimota, a dynamic and dynamic man with an Ibaraki dialect, is an “unknown great man” who is indispensable to the development of Japanese cuisine.

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Mr. Yoichi Inoue is the president of “Yamaimo Matsuri Limited,” a company that focuses on the cultivation of jinenjyo (Japanese yam), which is said to be difficult to cultivate artificially, and is dedicated to spreading the stable and high-quality cultivation throughout Japan. What is the appeal that drives Mr. Inoue to spread the use of jinenjyo?

Japanese local food yam

Yams are sold in supermarkets as a matter of course. Its unique stickiness and texture are used for a variety of purposes, and every Japanese person has probably had a taste of it at least once.

Because of its stickiness, it is often grated and eaten as “yam yam,” but it is rare in the world to find a yam that can be eaten raw. Diastase, a digestive enzyme, breaks down some of the starch and allows the food to be digested and absorbed quickly, so it does not upset the stomach when eaten raw.
It has also been called “mountain medicine” since ancient times, and has been used in vegetarian cooking and Chinese medicine for its tonic effects, such as relieving fatigue and strengthening the immune system. It is a generic name for a family of 600 or so species of flowering plants called the yam family. In Japan, varieties such as yam and ginkgo sweet potato are generally distributed as yam (yamatoimo). Despite the name “Yamato,” most of them are non-native species, which is surprising.

Among them, however, there is a type of yam with the scientific name “japonica. That is the “yam,” a species native to Japan. The name comes from the fact that, as the name implies, it grows naturally. In old books, it was described as “naturally growing.

It is said that before rice became the staple food in Japan, yam was the staple food. However, due to its low yield, it has gradually been replaced by an exotic species that is easier to cultivate and has a more stable harvest.

What is the origin of the Yamaimo Festival?

Although agriculture is advancing day by day and methods for growing all kinds of crops have been established, it has been said that it is impossible to grow yam. The reason for this is its low adaptability to the environment. It was difficult to cultivate yam with stable quality because it is an extremely delicate plant and even a slight change in the environment can cause it to rot or lose its viscosity and flavor. One company has spent about 40 years establishing the cultivation of yam. It is Yamaimo Matsuri Limited, located in Shunan City in the eastern part of Yamaguchi Prefecture.

Currently, the company produces and ships approximately 60 tons of high-quality yam annually.

The impressive company name is said to reflect the founder’s wish that “through interacting with many people as in a festival, people will deepen their bonds with each other, appreciate the bounty of nature, and enrich the community and its people. What is the driving force behind the company’s single-minded commitment as a yam specialist, from yam production to sales?

It all started back in the days when the previous generation moved to Tokyo with a yearning for the city. He saw his friends who had grown up in the city go all the way to the mountains on their days off to dig for yams, which gave him a culture shock. From this experience, he wondered if there might be a demand for yam, which is mostly a natural product and whose distribution is far less. He returned to his hometown to work on yam production.

However, since the cultivation method of yam had not yet been established, he spent many days going through trial and error.

The first thing he tried was to create the same environment in the rice paddies as in the mountains. However, this did not go well. Originally, yam grows deep in the mountains, but the cultivation environment at Ya-Maimatsuri was artificially cultivated fields, so the soil was too hard to grow downward. Therefore, the company decided to use corrugated plates as cultivation containers, taking advantage of the natural habit of roots to continue growing underground in a natural environment. The roots were imagined to grow horizontally along the ridges of the corrugated plates.

By using corrugated plates to lay them down, they were able to grow straight sideways along a narrow groove, successfully solving the problem. Since natural yam plants vary in aroma and stickiness from one individual to another, the introduction of artificial technology was an innovative step toward stable productivity and the production of high quality plants.

Incidentally, “root plants” such as yam need to be well drained at all times because they quickly become useless when exposed to water. Corrugated corrugated sheets drain well and do not require much work.

Also, when harvesting yams in the mountains, the soil must be carefully and deeply dug up or the yam may break in the process, making harvesting a difficult task.

Plots with good conditions

The soil in the field where the yam is grown is large for a row of vegetables, with each row 2 m wide and about 60 cm high, and the soil is well applied so that the temperature of the soil where the yam grows does not change much with changes in outside temperature. Unlike mountains, fields grow a variety of crops, so there are various germs in the soil, and if compost is added to the soil to make it grow bigger, gases are released as the microorganisms break it down, which can cause the yam to rot.

Therefore, it is necessary to let the soil rest for about two years to create good soil, and the difficulty in cultivation is that it is not possible to grow consecutive crops. Once, when he had not yet established this know-how, he had about 5,000 rotten plants in one year, which almost broke his heart.

Even so, he still cannot say that he has found the optimal solution for the balance of fertilizers and other ingredients, so each time he tests the effects by measuring, and he is especially careful about the amount of moisture.

Because he is so particular about quality, he repeats thorough growth management and trial and error.

We want more people to taste the yam.

The commercial value of yam is extremely high. While a yam sells for about 1,000 yen per kilo, a yam of the same size costs about 10,000 yen. The taste, aroma, texture, and even the style of the yam are superior to those of ordinary yams, and they have been treated as a luxury item since ancient times.

As a gift, the wild and rich taste, strong stickiness, and the good-looking cane-like curvature of the yam are popular, but the straight, cultivated ones, which are easier to cook with and have less acridity, are in high demand for everyday use.

The cultivated type, which is easier to cook with and has less stain, is in high demand for everyday use. “Because it is grown by hand, it is different from natural yams and less interesting, but when you eat it, you can tell the difference from other yams at a glance. I want people to be impressed by the unique stickiness and aroma of yam, so I will continue my efforts to ensure a stable supply.

With this in mind, he has started a restaurant called “Hatakamen,” which specializes in natural yam and has a processing plant attached, so that as many people as possible can enjoy the delicious taste of yam.

The restaurant offers a special way to enjoy yam in its meals: you can try mixing yam in a mortar and pestle. The experience of mixing yam in a mortar and pestle is very popular, as it allows visitors to experience the aroma and stickiness of the yam. The store also offers potato cheesecake and chiffon cake, which can be enjoyed as a café, creating a relaxed atmosphere where you can fully enjoy the yam.

The yam products they sell are also popular. The fruit on the vine is called mukago, which has the same fiber content as yam and can be eaten with the skin on, so it is best to boil it in salted water as it tastes good when heated.

The original yam noodles in the style of fresh pasta also have a chewy texture and many repeat customers.

The most popular of all is the karinto. At first glance, it may not look like a yam, but the more you bite into it, the more the unique flavor of the yam spreads. Other products include cookies, daifuku (rice cake), and shochu (distilled spirit made from yam and rice).

Even before the term “sixth industry” became popular, we were making efforts to produce processed products. I would be happy if people who are unfamiliar with yam and find it difficult to get their hands on it could enjoy its delicious taste. says Mr. Inoue.

Currently, the supply of yam from Yamaimatsuri is not enough to meet the demand. Of course, while this is seen as a challenge, there is also the belief that there is a need that cannot be met with the current production volume. To meet this need, the company aims to further improve its technology and revitalize the local community and agriculture in order to spread the Japanese native species that has satisfied Japanese palates since ancient times to as many consumers as possible.

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Organic wild rice

Mr. Takedomi was a teacher for 23 years, first as a biology teacher at a high school then as a landscaping teacher. He resigned after becoming ill, and took on farming in 1991. Initially, he started a farm in Chiba as a way to spread circular farming in Asia, but he ended up at his childhood home in Kouhouku where his family balanced two different trades. This is where he began organic farming. At about the same time, he was invited to lead a newly formed group to study organic farming, and launched a research group of 12 local farmers.

“At first it was really tough because we couldn’t sell anything we grew.” In 1995, he started a company to sell organic rice that he bought from other farmers, and as sales slowly grew, he expanded the business nationwide.

The rice, the vegetables and the miso all taste translucent. It’s something that hits you as soon as you taste Mr. Takedomi’s produce, even without knowing how it’s grown or it’s nutritional value.

“Is the rice a wild rice?” (Nakata) “It’s a blend of different rice and grains including wild red rice, black rice, brown rice, millet, and sawa millet. Each has a distinct presence, so it becomes more flavorful as you chew.” (Mr. Takedomi)

He was introduced to wild rice in 1998. He had an opportunity to taste wild black rice, and became curious about the various colored rice in black, green and red. Studying how they were grown, he introduced the concept of blending the wild rice with regular rice. The idea caught on among consumers, and orders grew quickly. By 2010, he was selling his blend even in New York.

Slow Food protecting food culture and the environment

On his farm, he uses compost made from hay mixed with rice malt to fertilize his vegetables, completely avoiding the use of chemical fertilizer or pesticides. He is actively promoting methods to protect the ecosystem in the Ariake Sea, and food culture that fits into the local environment. He appeared in a PR pamphlet issued by the Ministry of Agriculture、Forestry and Fisheries in 2002, which featured his successful cultivation of 6 acres of organic green rice. The article also appeared on the internet, earning him recognition as a leader in slow food.

He was the first Japanese to be recognized by the Italian organization Slow Food International (established 1980 with more than 160 countries and projects as members), receiving the Slow Food Award.

What he wants to convey through agriculture

“Why don’t you come watch us make miso?” (Mr. Takedomi)

He escorted us to a warehouse that didn’t look anything like the miso warehouses we’ve visited so far. It was a small barrel in a room the size of a bedroom. It was reminiscent of the homemade miso that all households used to make, and gave off the simple aroma of childhood memories.

“We make our own miso, salt and soy sauce here. I’m serious about wanting to provide food that is safe and trustworthy for my children.”

Food made with sensibilities is truly delicious and probably healthy as well. This was evident in the smiling faces of those who seem to naturally gather around Mr. Takedomi’s farm.

The post Doing what makes sense, leading the of slow food culture – Katsuhiko Takedomi, Yoshinou first appeared on NIHONMONO.