Why Hojicha is famous in Ishikawa Prefecture

Kaga-bocha ” or ” stick tea” and ” hojicha,” including ” Kaga-bocha,” known as Ishikawa Prefecture’s brand tea, have become famous as specialties of Ishikawa Prefecture. What is the history of these teas?

Ishikawa Prefecture was already widely known as a tea-producing area during the Meiji period (1868-1912), when the Kaga clan encouraged tea production in the Edo period. However, it was later exported overseas as a luxury item, making it inaccessible to the general public. A tea merchant in Kanazawa, Ishikawa, then devised a way to make effective use of the stems, a byproduct of the rough tea refining process. In this way, the price could be kept down, and tea became popular among the common people. While high-quality sencha is made by delicately steaming only the first tea leaves, “bancha,” “hojicha,” “stem tea,” and “stick tea” are made by trimming even the stems at once and roasting them over a high flame at once to create a strong aroma. The brewing process is also different. While sencha is carefully brewed at a low temperature, bancha, hojicha, stem tea, and stick tea are brewed by simply pouring boiling water over them.

Kaga-bocha, however, is different. While hojicha generally uses the tea leaves left over after they are plucked for sencha, Kaga-bocha roasts not only the leaves but also the high-quality stems, building a brand identity that rivals that of sencha. Among them, Kaga-bo hojicha produced by Aburatani Tea in Hakui-gun, Ishikawa Prefecture, boasts an exceptional taste among the many Kaga-bo teas available.

Benefits of hojicha

Because of its high-temperature roasting characteristic, hojicha is expected to have many positive effects.

The first is the improvement of sensitivity to cold. This is said to be due to the effect of pyrazine, the main component of the aroma, which is released during the roasting process of hojicha. This “pyrazine” is said to widen blood vessels and improve blood flow, and is expected to improve sensitivity to cold.

Second, it has a relaxing effect. Theanine, a sweetener contained in tea, is believed to work on the body and produce a relaxing effect.

Thus, hojicha is attracting attention as a drink that can be expected to improve sensitivity to cold and relax the body.

Aburatani Seicha continues to evolve

Aburatani Seicha began as a tea seller in 1918, and its predecessor, who succeeded the second generation, started tea production. The current president, Yusen Aburayama, has gained fans by personally brewing his own tea, which is carefully blended, for customers to drink at events held at department stores. He has been brewing his own tea at department store events and other events to win over customers and gain fans.

In ordinary hojicha, the leaves and stems are roasted together, but we remove the leaves and roast only the stems, ” he says. The secret to bringing out the sweetness is to heat it all at once at a high temperature. We use three gas burners to roast the tea at 250 to 300 degrees Celsius for about 10 minutes, but even a 1 degree Celsius difference can change the taste, so we change the temperature depending on the season.

The tea has a deep aroma and flavor without any cloying taste.

Nakata even said, “I used to think that stem tea was the leftover tea from sencha, but it has such a sweet and rich flavor.

Aburatani is also actively developing new products such as PET bottles and powdered teas to meet the needs of the times.

For PET bottles, we have been researching to enhance the sweetness of the tea. Tea leaves are a natural product, so the taste cannot be the same every time. Even so, we are making various efforts to create a similar taste. Recently, we have been receiving more orders for powdered tea for confectionery and ice cream. But the basic principle is to make delicious, safe and secure hojicha, ” says President Yutani. The company continues to evolve without resting on its laurels of branding and history, and this can be seen in its delicious tea leaves that can be easily experienced in PET bottles and even when brewed with water. Aburatani will continue to promote the growth of Japanese green tea not only in Ishikawa Prefecture, but throughout Japan.

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Hekien Tea Junpei, located in Toyota City in the northern part of Aichi Prefecture, runs an integrated tea business from growing tea leaves to tea production and sales under the company motto, “Providing good tea to customers at a reasonable price. He won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award at the 2003 National Tea Fair (Shizuoka) and the following year at the National Tea Fair (Aichi). Mr. Yamauchi, who is dedicated to the cultivation of high-quality tea, is now striving to reestablish a coffee culture in which green tea is enjoyed in daily life in this age of diversifying beverage options.

Tea plantation that has been passed down since 1872

Toyota City in Aichi Prefecture is a corporate castle town where a major automobile manufacturer is located. Although the impression is that the manufacturing industry is thriving in the city, it is in fact surrounded by mountains and rich in nature. One of the thriving industries in Toyota City is the tea industry. The origin of this industry is said to date back to the Edo period (1603-1867), but it was not until the Meiji and Taisho periods (1868-1912) that the number of tea plantations increased and the industry flourished.

Originally, the area surrounding Toyota City had a mild climate, fertile soil, and abundant water, making it an ideal environment for tea production. In addition, the population of the area grew as modern industry flourished, a characteristic unique to the area. These two factors were major factors in the development of the tea industry.

The second generation’s greatness, which is also attached to the store name

Established in 1870, Hekien Tea Junpei handles all aspects of tea production from cultivation to tea making and sales. The seemingly unique trade name is named after the company’s second generation owner, Mr. Junpei Yamauchi. Mr. Junpei Yamauchi is well known in the industry as the creator of the “Mikawa-style tencha machine,” which is said to be the prototype of the “tencha machine” used in Japan today to produce “tencha,” the raw material for powdered green tea.

Tencha, as mentioned above, is the raw material for matcha, and refers to the state of the leaves before they are powdered. Like gyokuro, which is classified as one of the highest-grade Japanese green teas, the characteristic feature of this tea is that it is grown slowly and painstakingly under a shading material. Covered cultivation has the advantage of reducing the amount of light to suppress photosynthesis in the tea leaves, thereby reducing tannin, which is the source of the tea’s astringency, and mellowing the taste, while also allowing the leaves to spread wide and grow bright, dark green as they receive the maximum amount of sunlight. One major difference between gyokuro and gyokuro is that gyokuro does not go through the “rubbing” process in the manufacturing stage. In gyokuro, the tea leaves are rubbed to break down the cells so that the flavor can seep out easily, but in tencha, the tea leaves are not rubbed so that they can be ground easily and the cells are not broken because they are supposed to be ground into powder using a millstone.

Until around the Meiji era (1868-1912), the production of tencha was done by hand, but there was an urgent need to develop a tencha machine to cover the labor shortage caused by World War I, which occurred in the middle of the Taisho era (1912-1926). At that time, tea production areas such as Kyoto and Shizuoka also invented tencha machines, but the Mikawa-style machine invented by Junpei is said to be one of the earliest tencha machines. This device had a simple structure: a drying room about 7 meters long, 1 meter wide, and 2 meters high was built of bricks, a boiler was placed at the bottom, and steamed tea leaves were spread out on a rail attached at a height of about 50 cm from the bottom and pushed forward to dry by hand. In the handmade era, however, tea leaves were dried by hand on a workbench called a hoiro (roasting furnace), and the temperature of the furnace could only rise to about 120°C. With the advent of this equipment, however, the temperature of the furnace has risen to 180 to 200°C, and the quality of tencha has improved dramatically compared to the handmade days. In addition, the quality of the tea was stabilized due to the improved efficiency of the production process and the uniformity of the technology made possible by the mechanization. Junpei’s contribution to the development of the Tencha industry in Toyota City is said to have been significant, as he spread the word to other tea growers in the area.

Since then, improvements have been made in many areas of the country, and today, the process of steaming, cooling, drying, and separating the leaves from the stems can be done in a single process.

The company has inherited the spirit of such a great second generation. Mr. Shomasa Yamauchi, great-grandson of Mr. Junpei, currently serves as the fifth generation.

What does Shomasa consider “good tea”?

After the second generation, Mr. Junpei Yamauchi, made a great contribution to the modernization of the tencha industry, the third generation, Mr. Takeyoshi Yamauchi, expanded the cultivation area and laid the foundation for tea sales. The fourth generation, Kimio Yamauchi, expanded the sales channels nationwide, and the fifth generation, Shomasa Yamauchi, received the “Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award” and the “Prime Minister’s Award” at tea fairs. The company is the first tea producer in Aichi Prefecture to receive the “Prime Minister’s Award” in recognition of its honest tea production, as well as its community contribution activities, such as offering tea-picking experiences and lectures on tea culture, and serving tea to local residents.

Mr. Shomasa, who has devoted himself to the development of tea in a wide range of fields, has arrived at the definition of “good tea” as tea that has 100% of the power of the “tree” itself that sprouts the tea leaves. If the sprout of a tea plant has 100 points, our skill is to make tea without reducing the number of points from the top. For example, it is sweeter to eat the morning harvest right away compared to corn that has been harvested for a long time. In the same way, tea leaves have freshness. In our tea garden, tea is basically made within two hours of being picked,” Shozheng said, revealing his company’s commitment.

The company’s tea plantations grow different varieties of tea leaves from mountainous areas to flatlands. In the mountainous areas, where temperatures are cooler, they plant late harvesting varieties such as “Okumidori,” while in the plains, they plant early harvesting varieties to shift the harvest time as much as possible. By shifting the timing of sprouting, it is possible for limited staff to pick tea at the right time.

The tea produced in Toyota City is characterized by the fact that it is not heated as much as possible so that the original fresh aroma of the tea leaves can be enjoyed as it is. Therefore, the growing environment directly affects the flavor of the tea. That is why the company is thorough in creating an environment in which the roots are firmly rooted in the soil and the tea leaves absorb all the fertilizers given to them to grow strong tasting tea leaves.

The company manages its tea fields separately for hand-picked tea and machine-picked tea. In the case of hand-picked tea, the “one core, two leaves” method is basically used, where the “core,” which is the bud that has not yet opened, and the two tender leaves below it are picked from the tip of a single branch. This method is more cost-effective than mechanical picking, but it is not possible to pick all the leaves by hand. Is taste more important or is cost more important? The company makes different types of products to meet the needs of both types of consumers.

Delicious tea comes from the sense of touch.

Once plucked, the tea leaves are steamed and then dried while being rubbed. Currently, the company uses machines for the rubbing process for productivity reasons, but it is the experience of skilled craftsmen that makes important decisions when switching from one process to another. They grasp the tea and check with their hands to see how much moisture is left in the tea and how the tea is twisted before proceeding with the process. The “hands” of the craftsman are involved in the process. This is what makes a good tea.

The mindset of being a first-year student every year

Shomasa says that every year he works with the mindset of a “first-year tea maker. Although he has inherited the logbooks that have recorded machine settings and temperatures for generations, no two teas are ever the same, even if they are made at the same time in the same tea plantation. Because nature is the partner of tea production, it is difficult to quantify the process, and that is why it is so gratifying when the tea is produced exactly as intended.

The reason why he is so happy is not because he is satisfied with the quality of the product, but because he is able to deliver a product to the market that he is confident is delicious. At the core of the company’s business is always the desire to make consumers truly happy when they drink the tea they produce.

Their son Masahiro, now the sixth generation, is also involved in the tea business. His passion and effort for tea production, which is second to none, has transcended the ages and is being passed on to the next generation.

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Nishio City, located in the northwestern part of Aichi Prefecture, is one of the nation’s leading matcha tea production areas. Mr. Hiroki Inagaki of Yamafuji Seicha, a limited company that produces tencha, the raw material for Nishio’s matcha, which is registered as a regional brand, has won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award, the highest award at a national tea fair. What is Mr. Inagaki’s commitment to producing the best matcha in Japan?

The “best” matcha loved by the local people

Nishio City, Aichi Prefecture. Located near the mouth of the Yahagigawa River, a first-class river that flows from north to south in the center of the prefecture, the city is blessed with a rich water source and abundant soil, and is a major producer of agricultural and marine products. Among these, matcha (powdered green tea) is one of the most widely produced in Japan. It is also a major producer of tencha, the raw material for matcha. According to a 2021 survey by the National Federation of Tea Producers Associations, Aichi Prefecture is the fourth largest producer of powdered powdered green tea in Japan, following Kagoshima, Kyoto, and Shizuoka prefectures (according to a 2021 survey by the National Federation of Tea Producers Associations).
Not only in terms of production volume, but also in terms of quality, Nishio tea was awarded the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Prize, the highest prize at the 73rd National Tea Fair in 2021, making it the number one brand in Japan. The man who produced the tencha that won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award is Mr. Hiroki Inagaki of Yamafuji Tea Manufacturing Co.

What is powdered tea?

To begin with, some people may not be familiar with the term “Tencha. As mentioned above, tencha is the raw material for matcha (powdered green tea), and refers to the state of the leaves before they are ground into a powder. Like gyokuro, which is classified as one of the most expensive types of Japanese green tea, tencha is cultivated under shade, which requires a lot of time and effort.

In the case of the tea leaves grown under shade, photosynthesis is suppressed by reducing the amount of light, thereby reducing the amount of tannin, which is the source of the tea’s astringency, resulting in a mellower taste. In addition, the leaves spread wide to maximize the amount of sunlight that is available, resulting in the growth of a bright, dark green color. The major difference between gyokuro and gyokuro is that gyokuro does not go through the “rubbing” process in the manufacturing stage. In gyokuro, the tea leaves are rubbed to break down the cells so that the flavor can seep out easily, but in tencha, the tea leaves are not rubbed to make them easier to grind because they are supposed to be ground into powder using a stone mortar.

Soil preparation is difficult because it is “invisible”.

Tea production in Nishio City is said to have begun more than 700 years ago. It was not until the Meiji period (1868-1912) that tea began to be cultivated in earnest, and since the late Taisho period (1912-1926), the production of matcha (powdered green tea) has been particularly active. Located on a delta formed near the mouth of the Yahagigawa River and its tributary, the Yahagikogawa River, Nishio City is said to be suitable for growing glossy tea leaves because of its sandy soil and mild climate. While the cultivation of high quality tea requires soil with good drainage, the good drainage also causes fertilizers to run off with the water.

The most difficult part of soil cultivation is that it is invisible,” says Inagaki. He uses rapeseed meal, which is the residue after oil is pressed from rapeseed, as a fertilizer to grow soil that maintains good drainage while preventing the fertilizer from running off. The rapeseed meal is a natural organic fertilizer that helps to build

up the soil and improve the sweetness and aroma of the tea.

A 100-point tea can only come from a 200-point fresh leaf.

Mr. Inagaki believes that “cultivation and processing after harvest are equally important” in making Tencha. Inagaki’s theory is that even if the raw leaves harvested during tea picking are close to 100 points, the score drops to 90, 80, and so on as they are processed. For this reason, he says, “It is important to aim for 100 points in cultivation technology, and to eliminate any points that can be deducted from the 100 points.

For example, determining when to start covering the leaves after new shoots appear is another technique to maximize the effects of cover cultivation. In addition, the best timing for fertilizer application and harvesting must also be determined. To do this, it is necessary to spend a lot of time in the field and cultivate experience. Mr. Inagaki proudly states, “By understanding and managing the characteristics of my fields, I am able to ensure consistent quality.

Taste is brought out by steaming, aroma by drying.

Steeping is very important to bring out the flavor of the tea leaves, and drying is very important to bring out the aroma. We pay particular attention to these two processes,” says Inagaki.

The harvested fresh leaves are first put into a steamer to stop oxidation. Excessive steaming will ruin the color and aroma of the leaves, while insufficient steaming time will leave them with a fishy smell, so time and temperature must be carefully adjusted. At Mr. Inagaki’s factory, he steams the leaves at 98 to 100°C for 10 seconds. After that, the steamed leaves are blown up by the wind to cool them down in a process called “scattering tea. The wind blows off the water on the surface of the leaves while separating them so that they do not overlap each other.

In the shadow of the matcha boom, the number of farmers continues to decline.

Latte with matcha green tea has become a standard menu item at famous café chains, and matcha-flavored sweets are always available at convenience stores. Matcha is no longer a fad, but has become an accepted part of consumers’ lives. On the other hand, the number of farmers producing matcha continues to decline. According to the Census of Agriculture and Forestry published by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, the number of tencha farmers decreased from 53,000 in 2000 to about 20,000 in 2015.

In addition, there is no market for tea leaves in Nishio City, so most tea leaves are traded relative to wholesalers. However, with the recent development of online markets and the emergence of e-commerce sites, wholesalers have become less influential than before. For tea farmers and processing companies that wholesale their products to wholesalers, this could be a matter of life and death.

Even if we produce high quality products, if they don’t sell, there is nothing we can do,” Inagaki said. Inagaki says, “Even if you produce high quality products, if you can’t sell them, there is nothing you can do.

Initiatives Focused on Overseas Markets

In this context, Mr. Inagaki is working to acquire various certifications with an eye on overseas markets. Overseas markets tend to favor organically grown products and fair trade products, and in some cases, producers may not even be able to sell their products unless they have actually obtained some kind of certification.

For example, by acquiring the Rainforest Alliance, an international certification program that promotes sustainable agriculture, the company is able to sell its products to major food manufacturers in the United States. The company hopes to be among the first to tackle these issues and win the trust of overseas markets.

The Future of Matcha in Nishio

Tea leaves grown in Nishio City and its surrounding areas are certified as a regional brand by the Japan Patent Office as “Nishio’s Matcha”. In Nishio City, farmers and companies have a history of research to improve the quality of Tencha (powdered green tea) under the theme of “Matcha for eating,” which can be used as an ingredient for food, rather than just for beverage use.

Currently, more than 90% of the matcha produced in Nishio City is used in processed products such as confectionery and ice cream, and of course, matcha for beverages is also highly regarded. However, the city is still not as well known as other matcha-producing regions. Mr. Inagaki says, “Local children know that Nishio is famous for its matcha (powdered green tea) through the stone-milling experience and other activities, but in the end it is only done within the local community. We need to do more to promote it outside of Nishio,” Inagaki said, expressing a sense of crisis.

Overseas demand for green tea, including matcha, has been increasing year by year, with exports topping 20 billion yen for the first time in 2021. As the demand for products is expected to diversify, Inagaki says, “We must always have the ability to listen to new information and respond to it. The day is not far off when Japan’s No.1 Tencha will reach people all over the world.

The post Visit the origin of “Japan’s No.1 Matcha”. Hiroki Inagaki, Yamafuji Tea Manufacturing Co. first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Masadokoro is located in the mountains of the Suzuka Mountains on the east side of Lake Biwa. This small village with thatched roofs and clear water flowing from the verdant mountains has been producing “Masadokoro tea” since the Muromachi period (1333-1573). The tea is grown without the use of any pesticides or chemical fertilizers, and because of its rarity, it has been called “phantom tea.

Uji is a traditional tea production center, and tea is a traditional political center.

Masadokoro tea is said to have originated in the Muromachi period (1336-1573), when villagers were encouraged to cultivate tea for medicinal purposes in anticipation of the medicinal effects of the clear water of the Aichi River, which originates in the Suzuka Mountains on the border with Mie Prefecture, and the fog that forms in the valley. During the Onin War, when people evacuated from the capital of Kyoto to this area, the monks of Eigenji served tea grown in the temple, which became popular for its delicious taste. This led to the tea of Masasho being widely consumed in Kyoto, and the cultivation of tea leaves, which had been practiced only at temples, was introduced to the private sector, making Masasho a tea-producing area.

It is said that this Masasho tea was served to the young Mitsunari Ishida during the “Sankencha” episode, which led to his being taken in as a vassal by Hideyoshi Toyotomi.

A rare native species that has survived the harsh environment

Masasho tea is cultivated on a mountain slope at an altitude of 350 to 450 meters above sea level. The cultivation limit for tea is said to be 600 meters above sea level, so this is not a particularly high altitude, but the land is characterized by snowfall of more than 2 meters in winter. In addition, because of the short daylight hours in the mountains, the tea trees are covered with more than one meter of snow for about four months of the year. The harsh environment makes it difficult for varieties brought in from elsewhere to take root, and while the majority of tea trees grown throughout Japan are of the “Yabukita” variety, native varieties that have been handed down since the Muromachi period account for 70% of all tea trees in Masadokoro.

Fascinated by the original landscape of Japan, the land attracts young power.

Tea cultivation was once so important to the people of Masadokoro that it was said that “tea and forestry alone were enough to make a living. However, with the rapid economic growth after World War II, tea production declined as more and more people went out to work. The area of tea fields was reduced to one-thirtieth of its peak, and Masadokoro tea, which was no longer marketable, came to be known as “phantom tea.

Currently, there are about 60 Masasho tea growers. However, the scale of production is small, and most of them grow only enough for their own consumption and ship the surplus as a commodity. The lack of commercialization has allowed tea production to continue in a more natural way, leaving behind a unique landscape where tea fields blend into the daily lives of the people. Attracted by such an original Japanese landscape, young power is now beginning to gather in Masasho.

I found myself offering to do it myself.

When I first came here, I saw the old men talking about Masadokoro tea, and it was so cool. I wanted to do something to help, and that’s how it all started,” said Ren Yamagata, the representative of “Cha En Musubi.

Ms. Yamagata first encountered Masasho 10 years ago. While attending disaster-stricken areas as a disaster volunteer following the Great East Japan Earthquake, he began to think that he wanted to live in a place with strong community ties. It was around this time that he was invited to visit Masadokoro by his former teacher from his college days. When Mr. Yamagata met a local man of nearly 80 years old for the first time, he told him, “The tea here is entrusted to us by our ancestors. I want to take good care of it, but I don’t want my children to have to go through the same hardships we did. I want to take good care of it, but I don’t want my children to have to go through the same hardships that we did. That was my wish, but I want to preserve this tea somehow, ” she said earnestly. She was so moved by his words that she decided to move to the area , saying, “If I have to throw it away anyway, please let me do it! and decided to move to the area. While promoting the appeal of Masasho tea to the outside world through Cha Enmusubi, Yamagata also serves as the director of the Masasho Tea Production Promotion Association and is working to establish a production and sales system for the tea industry.

Tea plantation he inherited while working as a doctor

Another tea farmer who started growing tea after meeting Mr. Yamagata is Shigetaka Sato. He is a radiologist, which is surprising.

I was surprised to learn that he is a radiologist. ” Tea is a very familiar drink, but when I thought about it, I suddenly realized that I knew nothing about it. I wanted to learn more about it, so I was looking for a place in the prefecture where I could visit the production site, and that’s when I met Mr. Yamagata. The first time I was allowed to help pick tea, I enjoyed it more than I expected. After half a year of helping out every chance I got, he suggested to me, “If you’re going to help out so much, why don’t you start your own farm? I started growing my own tea.

Now, while attending the Masaki-cho in between work, he is enthusiastically working on tea cultivation with the help of the people around him. Under the name “Shige-Lu tea garden,” he grows tea leaves and promotes Masasho tea through workshops.

Tea trees over 300 years old

Tea plantations are usually thought of as neat rows of tea trees trimmed in the shape of a mantis, but Masasho’s tea plantation is a little different. The tea trees are scattered on the mountain slope and are generally short.

All the trees in this area are native species that are more than 100 years old,” he said. In the Masasho area, fields planted exclusively with native varieties are still scattered about as they were in the past,” says Yamagata.

The tree that spreads its branches as if crawling on the ground is over 300 years old, and is the oldest tree in the village. Of course, it is still in use today, and is designated as a natural monument by Shiga Prefecture. The tea trees in Masasho do not grow upward because of the heavy snowfall in winter, which causes the branches to bend under the weight of the snow. In spring, when the snow melts, a flattened tree emerges from the bottom and rises up from there,” Sato continues. The traditional native tea trees have disappeared since the end of World War II, due to the mechanization and diversification of the tea industry, and now only a few percent of them remain in Japan.

No pesticides are the norm.

Walking around the village, one comes across clean spring water here and there. In Masadokoro, such spring water is still used for daily life.

The village of Masadokoro is located at the headwaters of the Aichi River, which flows into Lake Biwa. The people of Masadokoro believe that it is wrong to pollute the water if we, who live in the headwaters of the river, pollute the water, and it is natural that they do not use agricultural chemicals or chemical fertilizers. They do not even use insect repellant spray in their tea fields to prevent any chemical residue in the tea. The people here consider the standard of “good tea” to be the taste of the tea itself, and by extension, the taste of the local climate. Tea production has continued here since long before the advent of pesticides. I want to carry on the tradition of Masasho tea using the same production methods as in the past,” says Mr. Yamagata, revealing the pride of a production center that has been in existence for hundreds of years.

Hirabancha, a new Masasho staple

In Masadokoro, tea leaves that have matured and become hard are harvested by the branch at the end of March to make Bancha. The tea leaves are packed into a large wooden bucket, steamed, and dried after the branches are removed.

Before Mr. Yamagata came to Masasho, there was a lack of manpower, and the tea leaves were often left untouched after they were cut down to make Bancha, but now the Masasho Tea Production Promotion Association systematically harvests them. Until recently, people used to say, “Bancha is a tea for daily use. However, since its commercialization as hira-bancha, the number of fans has increased, and now the image of “Masasho as hira-bancha” is gaining ground. Its low caffeine content and sweet, gentle flavor make it easy to pair with any meal, which is probably another reason for its popularity. Some sommeliers drink it between glasses of red wine because it washes away tannins.

The packaging was devised to make it accessible to the younger generation, and tea bags were also created for easy drinking. As a result, new sales channels have been acquired, such as being placed in cafes and beauty salons, and the number of people who know about Masasho tea is steadily increasing.

I don’t want to destroy a scene that has continued for hundreds of years.

It is still not easy to make a living only from the tea business. Still, I don’t want to see something of value that has continued for hundreds of years to be lost. There is a charm to this land that I don’t want to see lost,” says Mr. Yamagata. Seeing Mr. Yamagata and Mr. Sato happily continuing to make tea, more and more people are coming to the Masadokoro, saying, “I want to try it, too. These changes are also creating opportunities for young people who once left Masadokoro to return to the area.

While strengthening its foothold as a tea-producing region, Masadokoro will pass on its unique tea production to the future. The breakthrough of Masadokoro tea, which has made a new start, has only just begun.

The post 600-year-old “fantastic tea” – “Masasho-cha” produced by the original Japanese landscape will be handed down to the future/Higashi-ohmi City, Shiga Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Asamiya Tea Katagi Kokaen is located in Shigaraki Town, Koka City, Shiga Prefecture,
It is a long-established tea garden that produces Asamiya Tea, one of the oldest in Japan.
They cultivate their tea completely without pesticides using only plant-based organic fertilizers and by hand.
The traditional Asamiya tea has a robust flavor and aroma that is inherent to the tea,
We continue to produce high quality teas that are gentle on the body.

Asamiya, a tea production area that has existed since tea was first introduced to Japan 1,200 years ago, is a village in the mountains of Shigaraki Town in southeastern Shiga Prefecture, known for its Shigaraki ware. The large difference in temperature between morning and evening is a source of quality tea leaves with a distinctive aroma and mellow flavor. Katagi Kokaen, which has been in the tea business here for generations, has taken on the challenge of cultivating tea without pesticides, which is not an easy task, and aims to produce world-class Asamiya tea.

Asamiya, a premium tea production area that has been in existence for 1,200 years

It is said that Japanese tea ceremony began 1,200 years ago when Saicho, later to become the founder of the Tendai sect of Buddhism, brought back tea seeds from China and planted them at the foot of Enryaku-ji Temple on Mt. Asamiya, a tea production area that has continued since that time, is located in the Shigaraki Basin, south of Lake Biwa, on a plateau at an altitude of 300 to 500 meters. The area has ideal conditions for tea production, with a large difference in temperature between morning and evening, and the Shigaraki River valley, which tends to generate fog. The area is also blessed with high-quality water from the granite strata, which has been presented to emperors as ” fragrant Asamiya-cha,” a famous tea of high quality.

Rich green tea fields in the mountains

Driving through Shigaraki town, lined with pottery stores, to Asamiya, tea fields appear on the slopes of the mountain. The haiku poet Matsuo Basho, who visited this area, is said to have composed a poem entitled “Hiding in the Trees and Hearing the Tea Plucking, Hottogisu. The beautiful scenery of the tea fields, almost unchanged from that time, is a comforting sight.

Asamiya Tea,” known by those in the know, is now a single brand

Katagi Kokaen has been cultivating tea in the highest area of Asamiya, at an altitude of 450 to 500 meters. Currently, the seventh generation, Mr. Takatomo Katagi, is the head of the company and produces a variety of teas, including sencha, hojicha, oolong tea, and tencha.

Until a decade ago, Asamiya tea was mostly wholesaled to Uji and blended with tea from other regions and sold as high-end Uji tea, so it was completely unknown to the general public. My grandfather and father started selling Uji tea directly to households because they thought it was a waste of the delicious tea they were making,” he says. After Katagi-san took over the business, he began to put more effort into selling tea at his store and online, and is now the leading producer of Asamiya tea in both name and reality.

From father to son. A commitment to pesticide-free farming passed down from father to son.

What sets Katagi Kokaen apart from other tea growers is its pesticide-free cultivation: since 1976, all tea fields have been cultivated without the use of any pesticides and with minimal fertilizers. My father is a bit of an eccentric. He started growing tea without pesticides by himself because he felt he had to give his customers, who came to see him and buy from him, something they could drink with peace of mind.

At that time, it was common practice in the tea industry to use pesticides to prevent insect infestation and disease in order to increase production. It was a challenge that went against the grain of the times.

Tea leaves are processed without washing.

Unlike vegetables and fruits, tea leaves are processed without washing after being harvested from the fields. They are then put in a teapot, poured over with hot water, and drunk.

On the day I returned home after spraying with pesticides, I felt more sluggish than usual. This discomfort may be due to the pesticides. I thought, I can’t give pesticide-laden tea leaves to customers who buy it because they say it tastes good. The decision was based on his realization of the fear of pesticides.

Starting out by hand, without a role model

He searched for people who were growing tea without pesticides, but although there were people who were growing small amounts of tea for their own use, no one was growing tea without pesticides as a business. He had no choice but to start by hand. He decided to start growing tea in all of his tea fields at once.

The first two or three years,” he said, “we could hardly harvest anything because of diseases and insect pests. The surrounding tea farmers didn’t understand, saying, ‘It’s like growing insects instead of tea,’ but my father didn’t give up,” he said. But my father never gave up.” He had to work at other jobs to make a living, and the hard work continued.

Finally, in the third year, new shoots appeared.

In the third year, after much trial and error, the trees began to sprout new shoots. Thanks to the fact that we did not spray a drop of pesticide, spiders, praying mantis, ladybugs, and other insects returned to the field. The resistance of the trees must have increased, too. Geographical factors, such as the fact that the tea plantation was at the top of the list and that there were few insects to begin with due to the cold weather, also seem to have played a role in the success of the pesticide-free cultivation. From that year on, yields increased year by year, and the soil became richer and richer.

Putting our heart and soul into the steady manual work

For more than 40 years since then, he has been growing tea using no pesticides and as little fertilizer as possible, in an effort to bring man and nature into harmony.

The most difficult part of pesticide-free cultivation is weeding. If the weeds grow too much, they take all the nutrients from the trees, so we have no choice but to pull them out by hand,” he says. There are many hardships associated with pesticide-free cultivation, such as more manual labor and lower yields than expected. Even so, Mr. Katagi’s willingness to go to great lengths in pursuit of safety, saying, ” Tea is something people drink every day, ” is a belief passed down to him from his father.

From Weaknesses to Individuality. Asamiya tea with a clean taste

The tea leaves, which have been cultivated in a harsh natural environment, have a reputation for its original flavor. However, in the world of tea, the umami component is the most important factor in evaluating the taste. Chemical fertilizers affect this flavor. Therefore, if chemical fertilizers are not used, the tea leaves will inevitably have less umami. Mr. Katagi explains, “If we compare only the flavor, we may lose to other tea production areas that use chemical fertilizers. However, based on our experience, we have found that using organic plant-based fertilizers such as rapeseed oil and sesame oil pomace enhances the aroma of the tea. Asamiya’s native varieties have always been characterized by their aroma, and we hope to further develop the aroma,” he says.

Passing on Asamiya Tea to the Next Generation

The tea industry faces many challenges, such as theaging of producers and declining demand for tea due to the diversification of beverages. The same is true in Asamiya, where there are currently 35 tea farmers, but few of them are of the younger generation.

I decided to follow in my father’s footsteps because he took pride in his pesticide-free cultivation. I am now looking for new added value in addition to pesticide-free cultivation so that my son will want to take over the business with the same pride.

Passing on Asamiya Tea to the Next Generation

Katagi-san’s current target is the state of Michigan, Shiga Prefecture’s sister city in the U.S. About five years ago, he began selling his tea there. In Michigan, Japanese tea is still almost unknown. I want to bring Asamiya-Cha to people all over the world, but first of all, I want Michigan people to think of Asamiya-Cha when they think of Japanese tea,” he said. In fact, at a sales event in Michigan, Asagucha was well-received as ” refreshing and easy to drink,” and the company is feeling a positive response.

Although tea consumption in Japan is on the decline, Japanese tea is attracting more and more attention worldwide due to the growing health consciousness and the Japanese food boom. In fact, exports to the U.S., Taiwan, and Europe have quadrupled in the past 10 years. Asamiya tea has a good chance of becoming a world-class Japanese tea.

Asamiya Tea will not abandon its commitment to pesticide-free cultivation, but will enhance its quality and brand power. Mr. Katagi is the one who will lead Asamiya-cha to the next generation and beyond. The challenge of Katagi Kokaen, which has been passed down from generation to generation in Japan’s oldest tea-producing region, will continue in the future.

We cannot mass-produce tea due to our commitment to completely pesticide-free cultivation and careful handwork, but we are proud of the high quality of our tea, which is healthier for the body. This tea is suitable not only for private use but also for gift-giving. We hope you will taste the original flavor of the tea produced by the tea tree itself.

The post Katagi Kokaen, a pesticide-free farm in Japan’s oldest tea production area / Koka City, Shiga Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Shimada Ochadokoro uses carefully selected Sogicha from Nagasaki Prefecture and Yame tea from Fukuoka Prefecture to make its original products. How do they produce their products, which have won high acclaim both in Japan and abroad, including the “Japanese Tea AWARD” and the silver prize at the “Japanese Tea Selection Paris 2020,” the only Japanese tea competition in Paris? We visited Ms. Yuko Shimada of “Ochadokoro Shimada.

The award-winning “Ochadokoro Shimada

Three minutes walk from JR Isahaya Station in Nagasaki Prefecture. Located in a quiet urban area, not far from the Honmyo River, the only first-class river in the prefecture, “Ochadokoro Shimada” is a Japanese tea shop that has won many awards at domestic tea fairs such as “Japanese Tea AWARD” and the only Japanese tea competition in Paris, “Japanese Tea Selection Paris 2020” Silver Prize, and has attracted attention. The owner, Yuka Shimada, is the owner of the store.

The owner, Yuko Shimada, is from Higashisonogi-cho, a production area of “Sonogicha,” which has achieved remarkable results in the steamed tama-green tea category at recent national tea fairs. She was involved in the tea business as a wholesaler, buying tea leaves directly from tea farmers, blending and processing them, and then selling them. I am the sixth generation in the family to make Japanese tea. Since I was a child, I have watched my father purchase and process tea leaves, and I have learned the importance of tea finishing and how to look at the raw leaves,” he said. The store is lined with a variety of products that Mr. Shimada carefully purchases.

I think it is important to pass on the culture and excellence of Japanese tea to the next generation. We have been creating the ideal taste of Japanese tea by utilizing the experience and knowledge we learned from our predecessors and asking for cooperation from tea growers and tea makers to find out what kind of Japanese tea consumers want.

Shimada’s switch from a wholesaler to a retailer who sells directly to consumers has allowed him to directly feel the reactions of consumers. Using this strength, he communicates in detail to the tea growers his requests for the variety of tea leaves to be used, the degree of heat, and other details. His clients are producers of high-quality tea leaves in Nagasaki and Fukuoka prefectures. They are all highly skilled tea growers and tea makers with whom we have had a long relationship since the previous generation. The relationship of trust built up through the long history as a tea wholesaler is the key to the taste that Mr. Shimada pursues.

Promoting the deliciousness of Japanese tea and the beauty of tea culture

Mr. Shimada considers it his role to promote the excellence of tea culture inherited from his ancestors. While working as a Japanese tea instructor in Japan and abroad, he is constantly searching for ways to make “delicious Japanese tea” that fits modern lifestyles. For example, the development of collaborative products with local high school students is part of his activities. A variety of tea varieties including green tea, roasted tea, and brown rice tea were prepared and blended by the high school students to create “tea that high school students would want to put in their own bottles. Two things became clear from this experience. First, different generations have completely different tastes. Second, there is a need for high-quality “tea bag” products that allow students to brew tea without using a teapot. The taste of the tea they made was very weak to me. In other words, young people want tea that they can drink in gulps. After being in the tea industry for so many years, it is easy to get caught up in the umami, sweetness, and color of the tea. Of course that is very important, but it is equally important to recognize the difference in taste from what consumers, especially young people, are looking for,” he said. In light of the fact that the custom of brewing tea in a teapot is disappearing these days, the company is also focusing on the development of tea bags and instant tea products. The Japanese teabags we make are made from gauze, which allows the tea leaves to open easily when hot water is poured over them, bringing out their sweetness and aroma,” he says. While we respect Japanese teas with great flavor, water color, and sweetness that are highly evaluated at trade fairs, there should be teas that can be enjoyed casually in everyday life. While paying great respect to the efforts and techniques of tea growers who are preparing for the rigorous judging of their products, we are also seeking products that meet the needs of the times and do not fit too neatly into the old form. Mr. Shimada believes that such a light and flexible “way of Japanese tea” will lead to the further development of Japanese tea culture.

Awards and representative products of Shimada Tea House

Shimada’s main products are carefully selected “Sonogicha” from Nagasaki and “Yamecha” from Hoshinomura, Fukuoka. The wide range of products from top-quality teas to daily-use leaf teas, mizusashi teas, tea bags, and instant teas is attractive. The following three products are particularly noteworthy.

Yame Traditional Hon Gyokuro “Zesshin”.

The 2019 product won the Japanese Tea AWARD Grand Prize and the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award, while the 2020 product won the Silver Prize at the Japanese Tea Selection Paris, the only Japanese tea competition in Paris. The rich umami and aroma of this tea envelops the palate the moment it enters the mouth, and is a masterpiece of artisan craftsmanship that combines tradition and innovation.

Yame Sencha “Tsuyu Torori

Made in 2022 won the Platinum Award in the Gogumi Sencha category at the Japan Tea AWARD.

By blending varieties characterized by rich flavor, deep taste, etc., the aroma and flavor are at their best. You can enjoy a trolley of well-balanced tastes.

Roasted tea “Kaorihime

This green oolong tea is lightly wilted and carefully roasted to bring out its gentle and elegant floral and roasted aroma. It won the Silver Award at the 2021 Paris Japanese Tea Selection and the Platinum Award in the hojicha category at the 2022 Japanese Tea AWARD.

Pursuing the Future of Japanese Tea

Mr. Shimada’s goal is to create Japanese teas that fit comfortably into the modern Japanese lifestyle. First of all, he is developing teabags and mizudashi teas that can be brewed without using a teapot, with the aim of making it easy to enjoy Japanese tea in everyday use. On the other hand, however, there are many people who want to fully enjoy the individuality of high quality Japanese tea by brewing it in an authentic way. I am in a position to listen to the voices of both consumers and producers. I am in a position to listen to both consumers and producers, and I will continue my efforts to create “tasty and pleasant Japanese tea” for a wide variety of targets by incorporating the opinions and requests of both parties and actively reflecting the opinions of those outside the tea industry.

Until the establishment of the Sogicha Promotion Council about 35 years ago, Japanese tea from Nagasaki Prefecture was sold as “Ureshino-cha” from Saga Prefecture. Today, however, the presence and brand power of Nagasaki tea is growing by the day, as evidenced by the fact that Sonogicha won first place in Japan in the steamed tama green tea category at a national tea fair. The growers are very positive and have high skills and abilities. If we can work together with them to set clear taste goals and achieve them, I think Japanese tea will become even more interesting,” says Mr. Shimada. He continues to promote Japanese tea culture to consumers with respect for tea producers and passion and love for Japanese tea, while cherishing the ties that his predecessors have built as a tea wholesaler. We see a bright future for the Japanese tea industry in Mr. Shimada’s cheerful and flexible attitude as he continues to take on the challenge of “making delicious tea.

The post Truly delicious Japanese tea” – Shimada, a tea shop /Isahaya City, Nagasaki Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

In a very small area of about 13 hectares in Mizuho Town, Unzen City, “Unzen Tea” is grown using volcanic ash soil from the Shimabara Peninsula and original organic compost. We visited Mr. Atsushi Nagata, the third generation of Nagata Seicha, a tea farmer at the foot of Mt. Unzen, who continues to take on new challenges every day while maintaining his unique “Fukamushi Tamaraku” method.

Unzen Tea” grown in the rich soil at the foot of Mt.

Unzen, which rises in the center of the Shimabara Peninsula in Nagasaki Prefecture. Unzen, Unzen tea is grown in the mid-mountainous area at an altitude of 50 to 200 meters above sea level. The cultivation of Japanese tea began in this area around 1935 (Showa 10). While mandarin orange cultivation was being promoted as a national policy at the time, the first generation of Nagata Tea Company, which will be introduced later, planted tea trees in Mizuho Town that suited the soil and climate at the foot of Mount Unzen. For about 90 years since then , “Unzen Tea” has been produced in a small area of about 13 hectares. Because it is located in the southern part of the prefecture, the harvest is relatively early. Unzen tea, grown healthily in the clean air, rich soil, and sunshine, has a reputation for its umami taste and bright color.

Characteristics of Unzen Tea

When most people think of Japanese tea, the thin needle-like leaves of “sencha” tea probably come to mind. However, the tea produced in Nagasaki Prefecture is mainly steamed Tamaryokucha (steamed green tea with curved leaves). In the process of steaming raw tea leaves at high temperature to stop fermentation and then rubbing and drying them, the leaves become rounded. The tea is sometimes called “guri-cha” because it looks like a gradient ball.

Unzen tea is also a “steamed Tamaryokucha,” which is dried by letting air in the tea leaves without going through the “fine rubbing” process to shape the tea leaves like sencha, so that the tea leaves retain much of their flavor and have a mild taste with reduced astringency.

Nagata Seicha, which has been making Unzen tea for three generations

In the mountains of Mizuho Town, Unzen City. Driving along a mountain road covered with terraced fields, we saw the tea plantation of Nagata Seicha. When I visited there in early May, the harvest had just passed its peak. This year, due to the cold winter, the harvest of the early varieties was late, but the mid- and late-season varieties were as usual, so the harvest was quite tight,” he said. Mr. Atsushi Nagata of Nagata Tea Manufacturing welcomed us with a smile, saying that he is the third generation in the company’s 5-hectare tea plantation that has been in operation since 1935 and handles all aspects of Japanese tea production, including cultivation, production, and sales.

After graduating from Saga University, Mr. Nagata spent two years training in tea production at the National Institute of Vegetable and Tea Research in Shizuoka Prefecture before returning to his hometown, where he became fully involved in the family business at the age of 25. Currently, he grows more than 10 varieties of tea, mainly Saemidori, which is said to have a good balance of taste and aroma, and Okuyutaka, which was recommended to him by his former teacher during his training in Shizuoka Prefecture. Okuyutaka is a popular tea with a clean and refreshing aftertaste. He is always in pursuit of “truly delicious tea” while understanding the individuality of each variety.

Nagata Seicha has its own unique method of tea production. Unzen tea is basically steamed Tamaryokucha, but we have developed a method called “Fukamushi Tamaryokucha” in which the steaming time is longer than usual. We also roast the tea in a kettle to give it an aromatic flavor. This process has been continued since my grandfather’s generation. The result is a mellow green tea with a beautiful aroma and color. Mr. Nagata also makes various attempts to bring out the original flavor of tea, such as “wilted tea,” in which plucked tea leaves are slightly fermented, “white tea” that has not been heated and is brewed in water, and Japanese black tea. In collaboration with a trusted Japanese tea instructor, he is exploring and pursuing the unique appeal and possibilities of Unzen tea.

Initiatives of Nagata Tea Manufacturing

The soil at the foot of Mt. Unzen, where Nagata Seicha is located, is volcanic ash soil mixed with black soil and red soil. The soil drains well, and the tea fields are soft to the touch. Mr. Nagata has nurtured this soil slowly and carefully over many years. For example, in winter, he applies his original compost, a blend of organic matter based on cow manure, and in fall he spreads rice straw to retain moisture and prevent weeds. The compost and rice straw are all from the Shimabara Peninsula. They also cultivate tea completely without pesticides to ensure safe and secure tea production. My father always told me that good tea comes from healthy trees,” says Mr. Nagata. This year, he and his colleagues developed a method to crush wild boars captured as a measure against animal damage and use them as fertilizer, and have started soil cultivation using this method. In addition, they have been experimenting with the use of grape pomace from a winery on the Shimabara Peninsula as a fertilizer. The results will come out in a couple of years,” he said. We are looking forward to seeing the effects on the tea plantation. The goal is recycling-oriented agriculture with an eye on the future. We are challenging ourselves to find a healthy way of farming that we can pass on to the next generation.

Communicating the appeal of Unzen tea from the café

Mr. Nagata felt that simply growing tea leaves in the fields, processing, and shipping them as in the past was not enough to pass on and develop tea culture, so he opened the Japanese tea cafe “Poppoya Chaba” as a new base in 2017. About a 10-minute drive from the tea fields, the store overlooking the Ariake Sea and local train line in front of it was renovated from the home of Mr. Nagata’s maternal parents, giving it a nostalgic atmosphere.

The menu uses a variety of local organic and traditional vegetables as well as Unzen tea. It regularly holds events such as workshops for elementary school students and tea brewing classes, and has a store corner where Nagata Seicha’s tea leaves can be purchased. The company’s goal is to offer consumers the appeal and enjoyment of Unzen tea directly to them through a comprehensive process from planning to production, distribution, and sales. I am a producer who works in the field. However, I cannot know the reaction of consumers only by repeating trial and error in the field. Since establishing a base outside the fields, I have had more opportunities to interact with the outside world and gain new perspectives. I take the issues that arise from these interactions back to the fields and use them as my next goal.

The photogenic café, located right in front of the local train station, attracts tourists from inside and outside of the prefecture every day. The Shimabara Peninsula, a treasure trove of seafood from the sea and mountains, has recently seen an increase in the number of “food professionals” who have moved to the area to work in the agriculture and restaurant industries. I hope to spread not only Unzen tea, but also the food culture that the Shimabara Peninsula prides itself on, from this café,” says Nagata. Mr. Nagata loves Shimabara, where he was born and raised, and is excited about the new form he hopes to inherit.

The future of Unzen tea looks bright, as this small production area of about 13 hectares is expanding its possibilities beyond the boundaries of Japanese tea.

The post Unzen tea made by Nagata, Shimabara Peninsula, Nagasaki Prefecture / Unzen City, Nagasaki Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Tsuchiyama in Koka City, Shiga Prefecture, is famous for its excellent tea production.
Omicha Marukichi is a long-established tea merchant that has been in this area for over 100 years.
As a specialist in hojicha, it offers a wide variety of hojicha and a wide range of related products.
You are sure to find a cup of supreme quality tea made with carefully selected ingredients and advanced techniques by tea professionals, including a “tea master Judan.

Over the past few years or so, hojicha has shown a steady increase in popularity.The “hojicha latte” style of tea has also become very popular.One of the first people to recognize the appeal of hojicha was Kenji Yoshinaga, representative of “Omicha Maruyoshi,” a roasted tea specialty store in the town of Tsuchiyama, one of Shiga Prefecture’s major tea-producing regions.

Roasted tea specialty store” established in Tsuchiyama, the largest tea production area in Shiga Prefecture

Tsuchiyama-cho, a town at the foot of the Suzuka Mountains, separates Shiga and Mie prefectures.The temperature difference between 35°C in summer and -5°C in winter is ideal for tea cultivation, and the town boasts the largest tea cultivation area and production in Shiga Prefecture.However, Shiga Prefecture ranks 13th in the nation in terms of tea production (in 2020), and is not well known as a tea-producing region.The number of tea farmers, which once numbered about 300, is now down to about 100.

Who is the man behind the “hojicha specialty store”?

In such a situation, Mr. Kenji Yoshinaga of “Roasted Tea Specialty Store Omi Cha Maruyoshi” is struggling to increase the name recognition of Shiga Prefecture-grown tea while devising a marketing strategy not found at other stores and offering high quality tea.Mr. Yoshinaga is the seventh generation of Maruyoshi Omi Cha, a tea wholesaler with over 100 years of history in Tsuchiyama-cho.He is also one of only 15 people in Japan to hold the title of “tea master 10th dan.He is a professional who takes rough tea leaves, which are processed by tea farmers, and turns them into products by sifting, blending (called gougumi), and heating the tea leaves.

What is a “tea master 10-dan”?

I would like to explain a little more about Mr. Yoshinaga’s title of “tea master 10th dan” here.

The 10th Dan of Tea Master is the highest rank in tea judging and appraisal skills, awarded at the National Tea Judging Techniques Competition held once a year by the National Federation of Tea Industry Youth Organization.It is said to be an extremely difficult task in the tea industry, and only 15 people have been certified in the 70 years since the competition was first held.The store’s hojicha tea is a perfect example of this discerning skill.

Bittersweet experience abroad made me realize the potential of hojicha.

He also wanted to sell the tea produced by his company as “Shiga tea,” but when Mr. Yoshinaga entered this industry around 2000, green tea consumption was steadily declining. Mr. Yoshinaga decided to seek new sales channels and began overseas sales.

Eventually, he began traveling to exhibitions in the United States, Singapore, China, and other countries, but no matter where he went, he did not get the response he had hoped for. The reactions of buyers who tasted sencha were mostly negative, describing it as “unpleasant,” “salty,” “bitter,” and “astringent.” Mr. Yoshinaga then noticed something.

“The hojicha tea I brought along as an afterthought was well received for its aroma and delicious taste.”

He also found that the reactions of young people in Japan were similar. Young people tend to dislike bitterness and prefer teas with a strong aroma. Feeling this, Yoshiyama decided to specialize in hojicha.

Throughout Maruyoshi’s history, the company has always adapted its business to the times. Fortunately, thanks to its accumulated expertise in roasting techniques—gained by taking on requests from other manufacturers—there was no hesitation in shifting focus to hojicha, a tea that emphasizes aroma. In fact, there was a sense of mission that this was a necessary transition.

I could see the way forward.

“I believe that the tea from Tsuchiyama is well-suited for hojicha. Due to the extreme temperature differences in the mountainous region, it takes time for the tea leaves to grow, but this results in a rich tea with a robust flavor and aroma. When roasting tea, the depth of flavor tends to diminish, but the tea from Tsuchiyama retains its flavor even after roasting,” says Mr. Yoshina.

Additionally, his experience as a tea merchant handling both sencha and hojicha has been invaluable in opening a hojicha specialty shop. However, he has decided to shift focus from being a “jack of all trades” to “specializing solely in hojicha.” He explained that this decision made the path forward clear.

At “Hojicha Specialty Store Omi-cha Maruyoshi,” which opened in 2014, the store is filled with various packaged products, and it’s surprising how many variations of hojicha can be enjoyed. Using domestically sourced high-quality tea leaves, they create hojicha using their own unique method, grinding it into a powder and adding honey to make “sugar-infused hojicha.” This product is popular among those who do not have the habit of brewing tea in a teapot, as it allows them to enjoy a delicious hojicha latte.

More than 100 different prototypes, “wide range” is the charm of hojicha.

The 10 standard types of hojicha are the result of Mr. Yoshinaga trying out over 100 different types. Even just looking at the tea leaves, you’ll be surprised at how different they look.

For example, the top-tier “Premium Tsuchiyama Hojicha” is made from the first flush buds of the tea leaves, carefully roasted at a low temperature. The green tea leaves appear unlike hojicha at first glance, but when you bring them close to your nose, a subtle roasted aroma wafts up. When sipped, the fragrance clears the nose, leaving a smooth umami flavor on the palate.

On the other hand, the most popular “Ton-gu Hojicha,” ranked fifth, is made from deeply roasted tea leaves with a direct flame, resulting in a dark orange color. It is favored by serious tea enthusiasts who seek a rich flavor, and its top-notch aroma also evokes the essence of hojicha.

As you can see, even though they are all called hojicha, each has its own unique character. Everyone is sure to find a flavor they love.。

Aroma and taste can be freely manipulated by roasting.

By the way, how do you create the various flavors of hojicha? Rather than differences based on the tea variety, the flavors are more influenced by the combination of factors such as the parts of the plant used (leaves, stems, etc.), the time of harvest, the method of picking, and the roasting temperature and duration.

For example, even using the same tea leaves, roasting at a low temperature results in a rich, full-bodied flavor, while roasting at a high temperature produces a lighter, more delicate taste with a fragrant aroma upon the first sip.

Additionally, the ability to capture the aroma of the tea leaves’ veins is a unique characteristic of hojicha. When roasted, the veins expand and release their aroma. The first flush tea leaves have soft veins, so when roasted, they emit a particularly sweet aroma. By understanding these characteristics and experimenting with various combinations, we strive to achieve the ultimate flavor.

Health benefits, such as reduced caffeine levels.

In addition to enhancing aroma, roasting also offers health benefits. Roasting is said to reduce caffeine content and increase pyrazine levels, which may help improve blood circulation.

When people think of hojicha, they may have the image of it being “cheaper than sencha” or “made from roasted old tea leaves,” but the hojicha offered by Omi Cha Marukichi, made from carefully selected tea leaves, is a product that proudly incorporates the extra step of roasting, as Yoshinao explains. The roasting technique that enhances the flavor of the tea leaves by several times is what adds value to the product.

A challenge for the entire production area.New aromatic hojicha” from Tsuchiyama

Mr. Yoshinaga has been working on a project to create a “local brand” in collaboration with tea farmers, tea merchants, and agricultural cooperatives in Tsuchiyama for the past four years.

In September 2022, he launched a new brand called “Tsuchiyama Hitoban Houji.”

The key to the aroma of “Tsuchiyama Overnight Hoji” is “wilt.

“Tsuchiyama Iwan Hōji” uses tea leaves that have been withered (ichō). Wilting is a method where harvested tea leaves are left in a well-ventilated area without immediately undergoing roasting, allowing the leaves to wilt and develop a vibrant “flowery aroma (hanaka).” The tea leaves release enzymes to protect themselves, and during the oxidation process, aromatic compounds are produced, which is the essence of this method. Taiwanese oolong tea, which is popular in Taiwan, is also made using this method.

Roasting withered tea leaves to create hojicha is a unique challenge and the core of this project. We aim to introduce a hojicha unlike any other, combining the vibrant aroma of tea leaves with the rich roasted fragrance, from Tsuchiyama. This endeavor was made possible by Yoshinao, a tea master with a 10th-degree certification in tea appraisal, who specializes in hojicha production.

The ‘Tsuchiyama Iwan Hojicha’ has established specifications such as ‘using tea leaves produced in Tsuchiyama,’ ‘using tea leaves with a high aroma that have been withered for over 12 hours,’ and ‘roasted by tea masters and producers in Shiga Prefecture and Tsuchiyama.’ Going forward, under these specifications, producers and tea merchants in Tsuchiyama will create their own unique ‘Tsuchiyama Iwan Hojicha.’

Take advantage of the strength of individuality that only a small scale can offer.Striking out with the pride of a tea-producing region

As mentioned earlier, Tsuchiyama is the largest tea-producing area in Shiga Prefecture, yet the number of tea farmers has decreased to about one-third of its peak.

However, Tsuchiyama Town still has many small-scale tea farmers with unique personalities. Due to their small scale, they can devote time and effort to withering the tea leaves and take the time to create “Tsuchiyama Iwan Hōjī,” and tea wholesalers are also working hard to develop roasting methods that bring out the individuality of each tea farmer. By leveraging these strengths, tea farmers and tea merchants are collaborating to create Tsuchiyama Ichiban Hojicha through a combination of their individual characteristics.

“We are currently experimenting with fermenting tea leaves, but fermentation is very complex. Depending on the climate, humidity, and variety, the possibilities are endless. Just because it works today doesn’t mean it will work tomorrow,”

Despite this, Yoshiyama seems to be enjoying the process. In this ‘Tsuchiyama Iwan Hojicha,’ he is not competing as a single shop but as a tea-producing region, betting everything on hojicha. The challenge of carrying the pride of tea master Kenji Yoshiyama and the potential of hojicha on the world stage is one to watch closely. We encourage you to try the hojicha that the Koka region is sending out to the world with the support of the entire tea-producing region.

With the diversification of eating habits in recent years, the way we enjoy tea has also changed dramatically.While responding flexibly to these changes, we will redouble our efforts to provide enjoyment and healing through the brewing, drinking, and knowing of tea.We invite you to experience the fragrant and flavorful world of Omi tea.

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600-year-old “fantastic tea” – “Masasho-cha” produced by the origin… Masadokoro is located in the mountains of the Suzuka Mountains on the east side of Lake Biwa. This small village with thatched roofs and clear water flowing …

The post Roasted tea specialty store Omi Cha Marukichi, created by 15 tea masters of the 10th Dan in Japan / Koka City, Shiga Prefecture, Japan first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Located in the eastern part of Tokushima Prefecture, Kamikatsu Town is the smallest town in Shikoku with a population of about 1,500, consisting of 55 villages of various sizes, but it is also known as the first progressive town in Japan to declare “Zero Waste” by setting a goal of “zero waste by 2020” in 2003.

What is Awa Bancha in Kamikatsu?

The road to the house of Ms. Ayame Tonokawa, a producer of Awa Bancha (late-night tea), is narrow and winding, making it difficult for cars to pass each other.In the misty valley, terraced rice paddies can be seen.It is a beautiful town that resembles the original landscape of a Japanese farming village. Awa Bancha is a specialty tea that has been consumed in Tokushima Prefecture since ancient times.It is a “post-fermented tea” made by fermenting tea leaves with lactic acid bacteria, just like Pu’er tea in China and Goishi tea in Kochi Prefecture.

Upon arrival, Mr. Tonozawa, a master of Awa Bancha tea making, was picking tea leaves with local women wearing tea-picking baskets around their waists. “This isn’t a tea field. We’re picking tea leaves that grow wild in the mountains,” said Ms. Tonozawa Ayame. They made their way through the thickets, finding tea bushes and continuing to pick the leaves. The harvesting method is more like “plucking” the leaves from the branches rather than picking them.

“How much do you make?“ (Nakata)

“About 70 kilograms at our house. Most of it is for drinking at home and giving to friends, and we sell the rest at the market. It’s not a business. We’ve been doing this for generations, and I’m carrying on the tradition,” said Ms. Tonekawa.

Awa Bancha is rarely seen in markets, but it’s quite popular in Kamikatsu Town. It’s warm in winter and served chilled in summer. It’s even used for bathing infants.

How to make Awa Bancha, a tea produced by local communities helping each other

When I visited Mr. Tonokawa at his home at 9:00 a.m. the day after the harvest, he was spreading out the wild tea leaves that had been harvested over a five-day period on a large blue sheet in his garden.From there, he first removes branches and debris, then boils them in a large pot, twists them in a machine, and soaks them in a vat.The important thing is how the tea leaves are boiled. We don’t have a fixed temperature and time for boiling,” he says.I just check the leaves and when I think it’s time, that’s it.It’s like a hunch.I didn’t learn it from anyone, but I’ve been watching them since I was a child.That’s how I somehow learned it,” says Tonokawa.

The family-wide Awa Bancha production is a summer tradition in this area.During this time of year, vendors who rent out the tea twisters, pots, and boilers visit several houses a day to help with the Awa late-night tea production.The work is divided among everyone, and the tea making proceeds handily.

Neighbors also help with tea picking and tea production, but they are all volunteers.In this area, it has long been called “teama-nyaku” or “teama-kai,” meaning to help each other out when both parties are busy.We have always done it that way,” says Tonokawa.

After the tea leaves are boiled and twisted, they are transferred into a large bucket-like tub.A small pile of tea leaves is then placed into the bucket.When the last tea leaves were placed in the vat, and when they had been stepped on enough, the brownish boiled water was poured into the vat.The tea leaves soaked around the end of the rainy season are taken out at the end of the Bon Festival.During this time, the tea leaves are fermented, giving it a unique flavor.

“Shall we bring some stones?” At Mr. Tonekawa’s call, several large stones were carried from behind the house. These stones have been passed down through the Tonekawa family for generations and are used for pickling. This method is one of the reasons why Awa Bancha is called ‘pickled tea.’ The Tonekawa family uses heavier stones than other families, weighing 150 to 180 kg. The number of stones used also varies from family to family. Mr. Tonekawa is particular about how the stones are stacked. The direction and placement of the stones affect the pressure applied to the tea leaves.

“That’s it! After waiting about four weeks and drying them in the sun, the Awa Bancha is ready” (Mr. Tonozawa)

After finishing the work, everyone enjoyed drinking the chilled Awa Late Tea. It was memorable how Mr. Tonozawa and the local residents seemed to enjoy the process from tea picking to pickling. Awa Late Tea plays a significant role as a communication tool in the community. It felt like something far more valuable than simply selling the tea for income.

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Soft and flaky Naruto-kintoki – “Demura Noen” Naruto-kintoki, matured after harvesting Sweet potatoes produced in the area facing the Naruto Strait at the west end of Tokushima Prefecture are called Naru…

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Produced by only 28 farmers – “Momo Ichigo Strawberry” Strawberries with amazing size and sweetness It is named ”Momo Ichigo” because it is a peach-like strawberry. (In Japanese, ”momo” means peach and ”ichigo” m…

The post Important Intangible Folk Cultural Asset “Awa Bancha” Ayame Tonokawa, spun by local people helping each other / Kamikatsu Town, Tokushima Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Shizuoka tea has a different aroma and taste depending on its region of origin.Kawane tea is considered well-balanced with moderate bitterness and astringency, Kakegawa tea is characterized by its mild sweetness, and Tenryu tea is considered a high-class tea with its rich flavor.Among such Shizuoka teas, the oldest tea, which has been in existence for more than 800 years and is said to have been a favorite of Ieyasu Tokugawa, is Motoyama-cha, produced in the mountainous area upstream from the Abe and Warashina Rivers in Shizuoka City.The characteristic features of Motoyama-cha are its bright color, pleasant flavor, and depth of flavor.In Shizuoka, it is generally believed that tea leaves grown in coastal areas with a mild climate have a fresh aroma and a clean taste, while tea leaves grown in mountainous areas have a temperature difference, so leaves that photosynthesize during the day rest in the cool air at night, storing nutrients and bringing out their richness and sweetness.When you taste tea in various regions, you cannot hide your surprise at the many different types and flavors.

Kojima Tea Shop, where the traditional taste and aroma are passed down from generation to generation

Since its establishment in 1868, Kojima Chaten in Shizuoka City has been focusing on local teas, especially Motoyama tea, and has continued to introduce their charms to the rest of Japan.Kojima Kohei, the representative of Kojima Chaten, is well known in the prefecture as he was deeply involved in the establishment of the Japanese tea instructor system, and Yoshio Suzuki, a tea master who has obtained the highest tea appraisal skill level, Jyu-dan (tea master 10th dan), of which there are only a dozen in Japan, selects, blends, and commercializes the tea products.

The tea master’s job is to buy tea leaves produced by farmers (rough tea = tea leaves that have been picked, steamed, rubbed, and dried by tea farmers), blend tea leaves that have their own characteristics, and process them into the final product through a variety of processes.He must be well versed in the characteristics of each production area and the differences between tea leaves, as he is the so-called producer who thinks about what kind of tea to make and selects the tea leaves.In 2007, Mr. Suzuki won the first prize at the 54th Tea Judging Contest, in which tea masters from all over Japan gather to identify the quality and production area of tea based on taste, aroma, appearance, and other factors.In addition to thorough selection and quality control of tea leaves, he uses a combination of shelf-type hot-air drying and direct flame burning, as well as far-infrared heating, to bring out the wonderful taste and aroma from the core of the tea leaves.Binchotan charcoal, which quickly rises in temperature and maintains stable combustion, is another of their specialties.

Tensui, the tea of the 10-step master and the profound world of tea

The “Tensui” created by Mr. Suzuki is a gem that was born from President Kojima’s request to blend the best tea.The tea is made mainly from Motoyama-cha, a tea loved by Lord Ieyasu, and other good tea leaves selected from tea leaves made using the deep steaming technique that originated in Makinohara, to create a perfect balance of water color, depth of aroma, and umami and astringent tastes.

During the tour, Nakata also had the opportunity to sample various stages of tea production. The tea leaves are first in their raw state, known as “rough tea,” and then undergo different levels of “firing” to achieve varying strengths. The final products include powdered tea, stem tea, and bud tea (made from the tips of leaves and buds collected during the production of sencha and gyokuro). Each stage offers distinct flavors and aromas. Sencha is characterized by its balanced umami, sweetness, and bitterness, as well as its refreshing aroma. However, the taste can also vary depending on the water temperature and steeping time. Mr. Kojima’s recommended brewing method is to preheat a teapot, add 5–6 grams of tea leaves, pour in 180–200 ml of water at around 70°C, and let it steep for about one minute. Of course, the tea cups should also be preheated. This results in a well-balanced tea. To bring out the umami, it is recommended to lower the water temperature to around 60°C.

After experiencing the differences in tea, we also tried “gougumi,” a technique where teas of different varieties and steaming methods are blended to create a high-quality, beautiful tea.

“The aroma, taste, and mouthfeel… even small differences in quantity can make a significant difference, which is fascinating. I’d like to try blending my own tea someday, but since there’s no right answer, it’s challenging. I need to study more” (Nakata).）

I would like to continue to provide tea that people can say is delicious, and I would like to keep the trust of those who have been drinking our tea.We also want to work hard every day so that more and more people can learn about the appeal of tea through our teas,” said Mr. Suzuki.Mr. Suzuki said.The combinations of Shizuoka tea alone are endless.The world of tea is still very deep.

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Making tea more delicious “Tea master, Fumio Maeda” Establishing the standard for ”supreme” quality ”Kikicha” determines the variety, origin and quality of tea leaves by looking at the color or the shape of th…

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Locally grown black tea in the country of green tea ”Maruko Black Tea” Good tea leaves make delicious milk tea ”If the tea doesn’t taste good, the taste of milk would overwhelm it.”As he said this, Matsumura served us ”Benifuki”…

The post Kojima Tea Shop in Shizuoka, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan, where tea master Yoshio Suzuki, a 10th Dan tea master, produces authentic tea. first appeared on NIHONMONO.