Horai Bridge, the world’s longest wooden pedestrian bridge

In the Edo period (1603-1867), the Oigawa River was said to be one of the most difficult sections of the Tokaido Highway, and the poem “Hakone 8 ri can be crossed by horse, but not by the Oigawa River” was written about it. It is a first-class river that flows through the center of Shizuoka Prefecture and eventually empties into Suruga Bay. The river has long been flooded by heavy rains, and is often stopped by the river.

In addition to the fact that bridges could not be built using the technology of the time due to the river’s width, slope, and other topographical problems, the river also served as the western defensive position for Sunpu Castle, where Ieyasu Tokugawa lived in seclusion, and therefore it was prohibited to build bridges or even ferry boats across the river. The only way to cross the Oigawa River was to be carried across on the shoulders of a kawago-ninshoku, or in a portable shrine-like vehicle called a palanquin. Toll booths for crossing the river, called kawakai-sho, were established in Shimada and Kanaya on both sides of the river, and each developed as a hub for crossing the Oi River. At its peak, there were as many as about 1,000 Kawakoshi trespassers, creating enormous concessions for the Kawakaijosho and the inn towns.

Horai Bridge, a popular tourist attraction as a power spot

In the Meiji era (1868-1912), bridges were permitted to be built across the Oi River, and the Horai Bridge was built in 1872. Since its construction, the Horai Bridge has suffered from flood damage many times, but in 1997, it was recognized by the Guinness Book of Records as “the world’s longest wooden pedestrian bridge,” and has been used for filming movies and TV dramas, attracting many tourists. The bridge is also popular as a power spot for good luck due to the word “yaku-nashi” (no bad luck).

Originally a farm road connecting Shimada-juku and the Makinohara Plateau, the bridge has become a tourist attraction with cafes and souvenir stores in the neighborhood. When viewed from the Shimada-juku side, the 2.4-meter-wide bridge stretches straight out toward the mountain greenery on the other side of the river, with the goal point completely hidden from view. Many tourists pay a toll of 100 yen (for adults) to cross this bridge. When I asked Nakata, who rarely visits tourist spots that appear in guidebooks, why he wanted to come here, he replied, “I thought the scenery was kind of nice. When we started walking, we found it quite enjoyable. The railing is low and there is nothing to block the view. The view was indeed spectacular. The bridge, which only pedestrians and cyclists are allowed to cross, is almost flat and has a low visibility. The water is flowing right under your eyes and you can hear the sound of it. It is as if we are standing in the middle of the Oi River. The sun is strong, but the breeze coming across the river is pleasant. I simply walk back and forth across the bridge with no particular goal in mind. It was a refreshing experience to take a walk on the river, which takes about 30 minutes round trip even if you walk slowly. Don’t underestimate a tourist spot. More to the point, I admired Nakata’s wise eyes in selecting “this is the place to go” from among the numerous tourist spots.

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Yuki-tsumugi representing Ibaraki

After the cocoons are boiled for about an hour, skilled workers carefully form silk floss in tubs. Sild thread is carefully pulled from the floss. This traditional method is still being used to create Yuki-tsumugi in Yuki, located in the western part of Ibaraki prefecture. Yuki-tsumugi is a traditional craft from Ibaraki and is also a registered UNESCO intangible cultural heritage.
“We use our saliva to weave the thin threads together. The protein in saliva allows us to bundle the thin fiber together to form the thread.”
Hajime Mori is one of the craftsperson who carry on the tradition of Yuki-tsumugi. The atelier is equipped with a “jibata”, or weaving machine, and a stand used to dye the thread before its woven.
Yuki-tsumugi uses a method where the thread is dyed before it’s woven. There is careful calculation involved in creating the flowers, plants, and other designs by weaving the dyed thread vertically and horizontally.
Portions of the thread are covered with cotton thread to allow the original color to remain during the dye process, and used to create the final design.
The dyed thread are beautiful even before they are woven, and Nakata commented that “displaying the thread would be attractive.”

The quality of Yuki-tsumugi is recognized around the world and has been used for collaborations with renowned brands to create suits and fabric. We spoke with Yoriyuki Okusawa, the 5th generation of Okujun, the weaver which has carried on the traditions of Yuki-tsumugi since its establishment in 1907.
“The characteristic of Yuki-tsumugi is that the thread is hand-pulled from the silk floss and woven with a `jibata` weaver. The `jibata` is low to the ground compared to other weavers, requiring the weaver to use the entire body. The unique shape is said to be the inspiration for the folk tale `the crane’s gratitude`. It can take up to 5 months for 1 sheet of fabric because there are more than 40 steps involved including pulling the thread from the floss. Complicated designs can take a few years.”

Museum telling the story of Yuki-tsumugi

Pulling thin fiber from a large floss of silk and threading them by hand. The daunting task of making thread can take up to three months.
“The cocoon protects the silkworm. It doesn’t allow ultraviolet rays through, maintains a comfortable level of humidity, and even has anti-bacterial properties. This is incorporated in the Yuki-tsumugi, allowing for the comfort when you adorn it.” (president Okusawa)
The dyeing process is also painstaking. Tying cotton string to the silk thread to create a pattern. Bunching several millimeters of thread together and adjusting the cotton thread to achieve the desired pattern. The knots must all be the same tightness. On some days, Mr. Mori repeats this process more than 2000 times in a single day. Yuki-tsumugi is light and graceful, a result of the many painstaking hours of labor. It must be delightful to be enveloped in a kimono made from this very special fabric. It is sure to be a top candidate when Nakata has a new kimono made.

Okujun is involved in planning, designing and selling Yuki-tsumugi as a wholesaler. In 2006, a museum was opened on the property housing documents that relay the technology and history of Yuki-tsumugi. Okujun is also involved in developing new products such as scarves and small products in addition to the traditional kimono. There is also a store selling Yuki-tsumugi items and a workshop where visitors can experience the craft. It is a comprehensive cultural facility that passes on the significance of Yuki-tsumugi.

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The Metropolitan Area Outer Discharge Channel, one of the world’s largest underground discharge channels

The Metropolitan Area Outer Discharge Channel in Kasukabe City, Saitama Prefecture, from the outside, is merely a building along the Edo River. However, about 50 meters beneath the surface hides a 6.3-km-long water discharge channel. With an open capacity of up to 670,000 m3, the facility is one of the world’s largest underground water discharge channels, designed to take water from five small and medium-sized rivers flowing nearby, including the Nakagawa, Kuramatsu, Oochikotone, No. 18, and Yukimatsu Rivers, underground and discharge it into the Edo River.

Also used in the movie “Ton de Saitama”

The facility is also used in the movie “Ton de Saitama,” where people gather to liberate Saitama, because of its temple-like structure with giant pillars.

Metropolitan Area Outer Discharge Channel with an “Underground Temple”

Descending a long flight of stairs, one finds a vast space lined with countless koban-shaped pillars. There is some humidity, but there is no smell like sewage. It was hot and humid outside, but this underground space was cool and pleasant. This is the huge pressure-controlled water tank (177 m long, 78 m wide, and 18 m high), known as the “Underground Temple. When there was no water, as in this case, it was often used for filming battle scenes in special effects movies (filming is currently suspended). (The site is currently closed to filming.) There is no other space or view like this one.
The five shafts, from Shafts 1 to 5, are approximately 70 m deep and have an inner diameter of approximately 30 m. The system is designed to take in river floodwaters and channel them into a pressure regulating tank in a controlled manner.

The Metropolitan Area Outer Discharge Channel, which played an active role in preventing flooding

The area around Kasukabe City, Saitama Prefecture, where the Metropolitan Area Outer Discharge Channel is located, used to be a popular and populated area within commuting distance to Tokyo, but the low ground level used to cause flooding every time there was heavy rain. It was in the 1985’s that the basic concept of the Metropolitan Area Outer Discharge Channel was formulated for the purpose of flood control improvement. After conducting surveys, design, and land acquisition, construction work began in 1993, and the project was partially completed in 2006.
In October 2028, when Typhoon No. 19 caused rivers in various areas to overflow and burst their banks, the Metropolitan Area Outer Discharge Channel was in operation, drawing in floodwaters from small and medium-sized rivers and draining them into the Edo River, thereby reducing damage in the surrounding areas, and its success was widely reported in the media.

Tour of the “pressure regulating tank” is also available.

This kind of facility is rare in the world, and many visitors from overseas come to see it. Tours are also offered to help visitors learn more about the role of the Metropolitan Area Outer Discharge Channel, including a tour of the popular underground temple “pressure control tank,” a walk through a previously undisclosed work passage, and a descent halfway down the stairs inside the shaft (content depends on the course; the pump course is currently suspended as of December 2020). The guide is only available in Japanese, but there is also an application that allows visitors to simulate the experience of water being stored in a giant water tank, as well as a multilingual audio guide application for foreign visitors. Hidetoshi Nakata has also brought friends from overseas as a surprise in the past. It goes without saying that this underground water discharge channel protects the lives of the people living in the surrounding area. The pursuit of functionality has resulted in a beautiful and mysterious space. It could be said that this place is also a space with functional beauty.

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A helix shaped hall

216 years ago in 1796, Aizu Sazaedo was built on Mount Iimori in Aizuwakamatsu City, Fukushima Prefecture. The official name is Entsusansoudo, and was designed by a monk named Ikudo, who was the chief priest at Shosoji temple in Mount Iimori. Western Thirty Three Kannon statues are enshrined at Aizu Sazaedo, and the hall was built for people to worship the Thirty Three Kannons when they are not able to visit the Kannon statue in western Japan.
The building is a wooden, double helix structure, something that is not found anywhere else in the world. There are no stairs. You reach the top by walking along the wooden corridor. You take a different corridor to get back to the ground level. What’s interesting is that there are separate corridors for going up and coming down. This type of structure is called a double helix. This took Nakata by surprise. The double helix allows visitors to worship safely without passing each other.

Was the double helix idea inspired by Da Vinci!?

Who thought of this structure, double helix? It was a question that came to mind as Nakata stepped into the hall. Masanori Iimori the owner who showed us around, told us about how Leonardo Da Vinci had already built a staircase with the same configuration.

What was more surprising was that there was a theory that the idea for Aizu Sazaedo might have actually come from a drawing by Da Vinci. It is said that the architect might have seen a sketch owned by an Aizu clan lord.

In addition, according to a story that has been passed on in Iimori’s family, a dream of making a ”koyori” with two strings may have been an inspiration. The truth is not known, but either way, there are no other examples of this structure in the world. In 1996, the building was designated as the country’s Important Cultural Property.

Mount Iimori, the land where Byakkotai committed suicide.

Aizu Sazaedo is located in Mount Iimori. Originally, all of Mount Iimori used to be the property of Aizu Sazaedo. Mount Iimori is known to many as the location where ”Byakkotai” commited suicide. As we were guided through Mount Iimori, we heard the story about the ”Byakkotai”.
During Boshin War, the Aizu clan fought with government forces. As the number of Aizu clan soldiers decreased, young boys were recruited to fight as well. The government forces had state-of-the-art facilities. The young boys who were able to escape the attacks by fleeing to Mount Iimori were able to see Wakamatsu castle (Tsuruga castle) from the top of the mountain. They saw that the castle was engulfed in flames. The young boys discussed their options. They could fight and die, return to the burning castle, or commit suicide and share the fate of their lord. They chose suicide.
”20 were able to flee from the battle, and 19 died. The one survivor told the tale.” We listened intently to Iimori, who spoke quietly.
At Mount Iimori, there was a memorial for the ”Byakkotai” soldiers who committed suicide. Presently, you have a view of the peaceful and soothing landscape from Mount Iimori. One cannot help wondering what the soldiers had seen.

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Taking a break on the historic streets

This is an old post station in Shimogo Town, Minamiaizu, Fukushima Prefecture. Ouchijuku has thatched roof buildings lined up on both sides of the town’s main street, Kyukaido. It is a major tourist destination with one million visitors annually.
Ouchijuku opened as a post town of Aizu West Road in Edo period. At one time, the town flourished enough to have ”Sankin Kotai”, the bi-annual passage of the feudal lords, but by the end of the Edo period, half of the citizens were farmers, while the other half operated inns. At the start of the Meiji era, modifications were made to the roads with a new road being built that no longer passed through Ouchijuku. As a result, the town lost the bustle as a post town, and became a true farming village.

Preserving the thatched roof houses.

With the arrival of the Showa era, the town became modernized with electric poles and asphalt roads. But after the 1980s, what remained of the old town came to be valued. It was designated as a Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings and preservation efforts began in earnest. That is why Ouchijuku is preserved so beautifully in the present.
However, the preservation and maintenance of the thatched roofs requires time, labor and money. Yet still, people are eager to preserve this landscape, and continue their preservation efforts. There are training sessions held every Wednesday about the thatched roof, the symbol of Ouchijuku.
”One must recognize the need to conserve techniques, otherwise, they will be forgotten. And that must be done by the town’s citizens.” said Kazue Sato from Ouchijuku Tourist Association.

Enjoy the relaxing country

Nakata visited in the morning, so there were few tourists, but there were people making dumplings and others frying rice cakes. You could feel the lives of the people. We strolled around Ouchijuku town, bought rice cakes and ate them. Time passed slowly here.

Eat the famous “Negi Soba”

One of the famous food from Ouchijuku is ”soba”, or buckwheat noodle. It is known by the name of Koen soba. The noodle is made from 100% buckwheat, and you use green onions instead of chopsticks to eat it. They brought the famous Koen soba from the back of the store. A stick of green onion is placed on top of the bowl with the soba noodles. Our group took a look at it and exclaimed out loud with someone commenting ”But it looks difficult to eat.” The server said ”That’s right, it’s difficult to eat!” and served the bowl with a huge smile on his face.
Our laughter echoed for long time, and time passed slowly and peacefully.

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The remains from Mt. Asama explosion

There is an old saying that an ogre lives in Mt. Asama and when he gets angry, the mountain explodes. The big explosion in 1783 brought many casualties.

At ”Onioshidashi-en,” you can see the remains of lava, boulders and rocks that was spewed out from the volcanic explosion. The scenery is chilling.
However, observing from a different perspective, you can appreciate the power and beauty of nature. It started to rain when Nakata was there, but the rain created an impressive smokey view.

The ferocity of nature

“Serving as a memorial to people who lost their lives during the explosion, ”Asamayama Kannon-do,” serving as a subsidiary of ”Ueno Kaneiji,” was built on the site. It also serves to relay the ferocity of nature to future generations.

Looking down at the grounds from the hill where the temple is built, Nakata said it reminds him of Africa. It was a vision that didn’t seem to fit in Japan.

There is an area where seasonal plants and flowers grow, a pleasing sight to the beholder. Visitors can enjoy wild flowers growing next to the hardened lava, and experience the power of nature.

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Foundation of Japanese modernization

Japan’s first silk-reeling factory established in 1872. The Meiji government built this state-run silk mill factory as a way of promoting strong industry and increasing country’s wealth, .

Until then, silk-reeling required human labor in Japan, and therefore the production quantity was small, and there was an issue with stable quality. So the Meiji government asked French engineer, Paul Brunat, to direct the construction of the factory to introduce the latest silk-reeling machines and the use of steam locomotives. Hence the first silk-reeling factory was built in Japan.

Registered as World Industrial Heritage

At Tomioka Silk Mill, there are a series of brick buildings that bring images of the Meiji era. The West Cocoon Warehouse, built with wooden frames and bricks, is a unique building that retains most of its original state. Other buildings, such as the silk-reeling factory constructed before 1875, have been designated as Important Cultural Properties.

We went inside the silk-reeling factory with a guide. This building also remains almost as it was when it was built. The inside walls are painted white which looked very modern, and there were many rows of milling machines in this large space.

The Tomioka Silk Mill operated for 115 years up until 1987. The machines you see now were introduced in the Showa era. It was once filled with the sound of silk spinners and several hundred women attending the machines.

In 2007, ”The Tomioka Silk Mill and Related Industrial Heritage” was tentatively enlisted in the World Heritage. Later, it was officially registered as a World Heritage in 2014, and became the second Industrial Heritage in Japan following ”Iwami Ginzan”. This heritage shows the scale of the huge industry that once promoted the high-speed modernization of Japan.

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Discovery of a Historic Site

”Heijokyu” refers to the center of the Heijo palace, where the center of administration was. The palace was divided into 2 sectors; one where the emperor lived and the other sector for administration, where rituals and politics were conducted. The palace is 1300 years old, but this site was not designated as the palace remnnants until the Taisho period.
In 794 the capital was moved to Heian, and the Heijo palace was left to its ruin. The building was eventually demolished and the land was used for agriculture. Over time, it was forgotten and literally was buried under the ground.
Time moved on and in 1850, towards the end of the Edo period, an official employed under the government conducted research and claimed that under the farmlands was the remnants of the Heijo palace. In the Meiji period, preservation acts progressed and finally in the year Taisho 11 (1922) it was recognized as one of the country’s historic sites.

Restoration and Excavation in Progress

Official excavation was commenced only after the war and is still under way. Many ruins with historical worth are still being discovered.
Simultaneously, restoration of the Heijo palace is taking place. In 1998, the Suzaku Gate, which is said to be the entrance to the palace, was restored. Later, in 2010 on the 1300 year commemoration of the transfer of the capital to Heian, the former Imperial Audience Hall was completed.
In 1998 the remnants of Heijo palace was designated World Cultural Heritage along with Todaiji as ”the Cultural Asset of Ancient Capital, Nara”. The Suzaku Gate is lit up at night. The vermillion gate lit up in the darkness sets out a mystical atmosphere making your mind wander off thinking about ancient Nara.

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One of the first western style lighthouses in Japan

The Shiono Cape is at the south most point of the Kii Peninsula. The Pacific Ocean spreads beyond this cape which is located at the southernmost location of Honshu. At Shiono Cape, there is a lighthouse which shines brightly under the warm Kii sun. ”Shiono Cape Lighthouse” is beautiful and white, made of stone, and is considered to be one of the 50 most beautiful lighthouses in Japan. In 1866, at the end of the Bakufu era, Japan committed to building 8 lighthouses all over Japan under the ”Tax revision treaty” (Edo Treaty) which they signed with the US, England, France and Holland. ”Shiono Cape Lighthouse” was one of these. It is one of the first western style lighthouses built in Japan.

It was a key point for maritime traffic.

The lighthouse was completed in 1870, 4 years after the treaty was signed, but it took a while longer for it to be properly lit up. This is because the British ship that was carrying the machine for the lighthouse sank in the East China Sea. The area has been a strategic point within the marine transportation route since the old days, and is a difficult area for ships to cross because of turbulent winds and rapid currents. However, lighting could not be delayed just because the carrier ship sank. They quickly imported a head lamp of a steam locomotive from the US, and used that instead for 3 years. It has been 140 years since it’s completion. Shiono Cape is shining a guiding light for ships and boats which cross the ocean even today.
It was late afternoon before the sunset when Nakata arrived at the cape.
”From Okinawa, we have finally reached the south most area of Honshu.”
It was a moment for Nakata and his entourage to revel in the journey that brought them to Wakayama.

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Bridge made by weaving hardy kiwi (actinidia arguta)

Do you know the three unique bridges of Japan? They are three very rare bridges in Japan although there are many different opinions about which bridges the term refers to. The Kazura Bridge at Iya, is supposedly one of these bridges.
This bridge is 45 meters long, 2 meters wide, 14 meters above the water and made by weaving approx. 5 tons of wild hardy kiwi (actinidia arguta). It is just like a part of nature as it sways in the breeze, exposed in rain, and reflecting against the clear sky on the fresh stream of the Iya River on clear days. Every step is accompanied by a creaking sound, and many may be scared by the rough bridge floor that has many gaps. Nevertheless, the overwhelming sense of presence this bridge has will gradually and surely change your fear to a sense of relief, and give you a sense of freedom, similar to when you climbed a tree as a child.

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