About Iouzan Yakuoin Yuzanji Temple

It is not a so-called touristy temple.It is not a temple that is often mentioned in guidebooks.However, since its construction in 701 by Gyoki (a founder of Buddhism active from the Asuka to Nara periods), Aburayama Temple in Fukuroi City, Shizuoka Prefecture, has been revered by successive emperors, the Tokugawa family, and other feudal lords, and is beloved by local people.The name “Aburayama” comes from the fact that oil used to gush out from this place, and it is also called “sacred mountain for the eyes.
The temple was so named because Emperor Kohken (the sixth female emperor in history), who once suffered from an eye disease, visited the temple and washed her eyes with the sacred water from the “Ruri no Taki” waterfall that flowed through the temple grounds, and her eye disease was cured.Since then, many people have visited the temple to pray for the cure of eye diseases, and there are still many structures on the temple grounds that were donated in gratitude for the recovery of their eyes.Although not fancy, they are all valuable, including the Yakushi Main Hall and the three-story pagoda (Important Cultural Property), which were built by Minamoto no Yoritomo in gratitude for his recovery from an eye disease, and the Yakushi Nyorai kitchen in the main hall, which was donated by the famous historical figure Imagawa Yoshimoto.The main gate was originally located under the entrance to the palace of Kakegawa Castle, which was called the “Great Castle of the Tokai Region.” When the castle was closed during the Meiji period (1868-1912), the gate was donated by the feudal lord and relocated to the present location.

Because of its remoteness from other tourist attractions, there were not many worshippers when we visited.Other than us, there were only a couple of people on the temple grounds in the morning, who appeared to be locals.But perhaps it was because of this that there was a pleasant atmosphere in the temple grounds.

Not only for eyes, but also for legs and back.

I took a walk around the temple grounds with Nakata.The forest is said to have remained unchanged for 10,000 years in its natural state, with waterfalls and streams of clear water, and the only sounds in my ears are the rustling of the trees and the chirping of birds.Walking in the cool, clean morning air, you feel as if your body is naturally awakening.The vast temple grounds, covered with cedars and maple trees, are mysterious, and in the fall, visitors can surely enjoy the beautiful autumn colors of the leaves.

In fact, Aburazan-ji Temple is said to be “protected by the god of healthy feet” in addition to the blessings for eyes.The entire mountain is within the temple’s precincts, and it takes a lot of stamina to get from the lowest gate to the main Yakushi hall on the top of the mountain, but Nakata was able to keep up his light footing. It was also the first time for Hidetoshi Nakata to visit here.Why did he want to visit this shrine?　I asked him when he left the gate after praying.He replied, “Somehow, I got the impression from reading the materials that it looked good.
Perhaps it was because he had been to shrines and temples all over the country.Perhaps it was because he had been to shrines and temples all over the country, but he had a good intuition.I recommend visiting this place in the morning.It is definitely worth the trip.

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Island of Black-tailed Gulls, Kabushima Island

Kabushima Island is in Hachinohe City, Aoyama Prefecture. In 1942, the island was connected to the mainland after a landfill project, but until then, it was actually an island separated by the sea. The island is known as a breeding ground for black-tailed gulls, and was designated as a National Natural Monument as “Kabushima black-tailed gull breeding ground” in the Taisho era. Kabushima Shrine is located on Kabushima Island and dates back about 750 years. The image of Benten that emerged from the sea is said to have been enshrined there as “Kabushima Daimyojin Honchi Benzaiten”. Since then, the shrine has been called “Kabushima’s Benten” and has been visited by those seeking good fortune, fertility, business prosperity and safety in fishing.

“Good luck” falls from the sky.

Even when Nakata visited, the shrine was surrounded by the crying of the black-tailed gulls. Far more and much louder than he imagined, Nakata was surprised. “There must be problems from having so many gulls.” he commented. The immediate response was “It’s the droppings.”. “Visitors worry about the droppings falling on them. ” they said. Umbrellas can be rented for free, but they too are damaged quickly. So the shrine started to give out certificates to people who were hit with bird droppings, stating that anyone who got bird droppings would have better luck for one year. This made Kabushima Shrine more popular.

Shrine where black-tailed gulls cry.

Also in recent years, since the name “”Kabushima”” Shrine includes the word, “”kabu (stock)””, people began to say that visiting the shrine would help raise the value of stocks, leading to an increase in worshippers. Not only is the value said to increase, but also stock prices in general, thus attracting many investors. As previously mentioned, Kabushima Shrine is dedicated to Benzaiten who is a God of the performing arts, such as music. Since the Edo era, it evolved to be known as the God of the accumulation of wealth. Although it might have started as a pun, considering how it is worshipped now, it might not be altogether wrong.
The loud cries of the gulls could be heard nonstop at the shrine. Though quite different from most shrines where there is absolute serenity of a somewhat intense quality, this space provides a different kind of peace of mind that puts one in tune with nature.

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A shrine with more than 1300 years of history

Visited Taihei Miyoshi Shrine, the ”Sohongu” of all the ”Miyoshi Shrine” ”Taiheisankou” ”Miyoshiko” that are located across the Tohoku region from Hokkaido to Fukushima, and also in San Paulo, Brazil. According to the Shrine’s records, it was founded in 673, more than 1300 years ago by En no Ozuno. Later in 801, Seiitaishogun Sakanoueno Tamuramaro built the temple hall before heading off to conquer the East, and the ”Okabura” that was dedicated to the shrine is still valued today as a sacred treasure.

Shinto god to aid the weak, vanquish evil

In the Miyoshi Shrine, there is a god, Miyoshi no Ookami. Miyoshi no Ookami is a god of power, victory, and hajakensho (castigates malice, preaches the truth). He helps the weak and vanquishes evil. During the Boshin War, the lords of Akita worshipped Miyoshi no Ookami, and the god became widely known when prayers were answered. The shrine is famous now for victory, success, prosperity in business, and is loved by people from all over the Kanto region as well as by the locals.

Yama no ue no Okunomiya

Satomiya stands in the manor of the Akita lord Satake. It is a ”miya” that is open to anyone at any time. Moreover, the Taihei Miyoshi Shrine has a okunomiya which is located on the summit of Mount Taihei. On the day of the visit, Nakata walked up the rugged mountain trail, some parts still covered with snow, to okunomiya. It was a tough trail, just as expected, as the mountain is known for Buddhist monks’ shugen. Once reaching the peak, Nakata had an expression of accomplishment, while commenting ”That was tough!”

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Beautiful mountains and the history of faith

Yamagata Prefecture, with impressive, nature-filled mountains has a tradition of faith where the mountains and the people are deeply associated. Mount Gassan (alt. 1984m), Mount Haguro (alt. 414m) and Mount Yudono (alt. 1504m) were the objects of faith as domains of the gods, and called the “Dewa Sanzan” or the three mountains of Dewa. They all have shrines atop each mountain which are collectively referred to as the “Dewa Sanzan Jinja”. According to its official history, the prince of Emperor Sushu sailed over the Sea of Japan and arrived at Yaotomeura beach (present Yurahama in Tsuruoka, Yamagata). Then, led by a three-legged sacred bird, he visited Mt. Haguro and after going through severe mortification, the god “Hagurosan Daigongen” appeared in response. He then went on to open the shrines on Mt. Gassan and Mt. Yudono. The mountains went through changes during the long history, and many Buddhist temples were built under the influence of the “Shinbutsu Shugo” or the syncretistic fusion of Buddhism and Shintoism prevalent in the Heian era, when it became famous as a big spiritual center. Then when Shinto and Buddhism again became separate in the Meiji era, they were redefined as Shinto shrines, and the faith continues to date.

Walk the approach

Nakata visited Hagurosan Shrine and Dewa Shrine with the senior priest Yuichiro Nakano.
“There are shrines on each of these mountains, but Mt. Gassan and Mt. Yudono become inaccessible in the winter due to heavy snowfall. That’s why we have the collective shrine on the top of Mt. Haguro so people can pay visit to the Three Mountains of Dewa year-round” explained Nakano.
Wearing the white costume for the mountain ascetics, we headed for the collective shrine which was 2446 steps up on the staircase. Going through the Zuijinmon gate, we were now in the domain of the god of Mt. Haguro.
There were many cultural assets and structures in this center of faith of the Tohoku region. Proceeding through the approach road to the shrine lined with countless big cedar trees, we saw a pagoda. The wooden structure is considered to be the oldest pagoda in the Tohoku region. To Nakata’s further surprise when he reached the collective shrine, the roof of the shrine was a thatched roof. The building was a Buddhist temple but it was reformed into a Shinto shrine. The shrine had a bell tower and a bell, testifying the history of the Buddhism /Shintoism syncretistic fusion and “shugendo”.

The “shugendo” tradition continues

The major characteristics of the “shugendo” in Mt. Haguro is the idea of experiencing “sankansando“ and “gishisaisei”, both concepts of regeneration through asceticism.
Mt. Haguro symbolizes the present, Mt. Gassan the past and Mt. Yudono the future. Through the pilgrimage of the three mountains, man is supposed to experience virtual death and rebirth.
Every August , a rigorous ascetic exercise called “aki no mine” is carried out. The “shugensha”, those participating in the ritual, stay together in the mountain for 7 days, and stand under a waterfall. This practice has not been changed as its history goes. The “aki no mine” ritual is limited to males, but women can also experience it during events at the “shugendo” schools.
Dewa Sanzan Jinja is a place where you can get to know the beautiful mountains of Yamagata and its charms, as well as the strong living tradition of the faith.

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