A long-established sake brewery founded at the end of the Edo period

The town of Ryuoh, where the Matsuse Sake Brewery is located, lies between Lake Biwa and the Suzuka Mountains to the east. Surrounded by mountains on all sides, Shiga Prefecture is actually a hidden rice-producing region, and has long been a sake brewery, with more than 30 breweries scattered throughout the prefecture.

The history of the Matsuse Sake Brewery dates back to the Edo period (1603-1868), when it was involved in the sake brewing business from the mid-1600s, but temporarily closed down due to the turmoil at the end of the Edo period. Since then, the company has continued to brew sake that makes the most of nature’s bounty, using carefully selected sake rice andbrewing water pumped up from 120 meters underground.

In recent years, the brewery has won gold medals at the National New Sake Competition for three consecutive years and was selected as the sake for JAL’s international business class flights, and has become a well-known sake brewery in Japan and abroad.

Matsu no Tsukasa, a famous sake representing Shiga Prefecture

Matsunoshi ” is the only brand of sake brewed at Matsuse Shuzo. The brewery produces more than a dozen varieties of sake, varying the rice used, the degree of rice polishing, the amount of water, and the yeast. The name “Matsu no Tsukasa” is a combination of a 200-year-old male pine tree that once stood on the property and “Matsuse,” the founder’s family name. The word “Tsukasa” means “most gallant figure,” and the name expresses the company’s wish that its sake will be like this majestic pine tree. The sake brewed with soft, fluffy water from the Suzuka Mountains and 100% contract-grown sake rice has a freshness and dignity that has made it extremely popular in the Kansai region, especially in Shiga Prefecture.

I want to grow Yamadanishiki produced in Ryuoh.

The distinctive feature of the Matsuse Sake Brewery is its commitment to rice. Hearing that the secret lies in the soil, we asked Tadayuki Matsuse, the sixth-generation owner of the brewery, to show us the rice fields in his hometown of Ryuoh, where the sake rice is grown.

Until about 40 years ago, we used to make sake using Nipponharu rice, but we realized that we could not continue to do so if we wanted to make sake that would continue to be drunk in the future, so we began to use Yamada Nishiki, which at that time was called the “king of sake rice. Yamada-Nishiki, the “king of sake rice” at that time. Yamada-Nishiki was popular and hard to find, so we asked farmers to grow it in our hometown of Ryuoh to see if we could harvest it, and that’s how it all started.

Yamada-Nishiki is mainly grown in Hyogo Prefecture. Yamada-Nishiki is tall and easily falls over and is susceptible to disease and pests, so its cultivation in other areas had not progressed well. Even when they did start growing it, the climate, water, and soil were different. Even if the same growing methods were used, the rice would not be the same as in Hyogo. There were years when the rice ears fell over due to wind and did not produce well, and he realized that it was not a simple matter.

Different soil makes sake taste different.

Even so, through repeated trial and error with local farmers, they realized that even within the same town of Ryuoh, the Yamada Nishiki produced in different rice paddies differed. Rice grown in clay fields that are well watered and fertilized produces a fuller, heavier rice, while rice grown in gravel fields that are well drained produces a firmer, more delicate rice. When sake is brewed using the same brewing method, the full rice produces a dense, voluminous sake, while the delicate rice produces a pleasantly light sake with a floral aroma.

We wanted to somehow increase the amount of Yamada-Nishiki, so we planted it throughout Ryuoh Town, which led to interesting results. Just by having different soils, the taste of sake can change so much. I think it was also good to realize that the taste is different from that of Hyogo Prefecture and unique to this area. It was then that I began to think that it is our job to pay attention to the individuality of the land and convey its value.

Matsuse Sake Brewery currently brews sake in separate tanks for each soil type and sells it under different labels.

Azolla,” a symbol of clean rice paddies

Around 2000, the company began to engage in pesticide-free cultivation. Shiga Prefecture, where most of the rivers in the prefecture flow into Lake Biwa, has a high level of environmental awareness among its residents, and for six consecutive years has boasted the largest area devoted to environmentally friendly agriculture in Japan. Mr. Matsuse himself has a strong desire to protect Lake Biwa, and at the same time, he wanted to express the goodness of the rice paddies as they are, without any extra work, in his sake.

He also wanted to express in his sake the quality of the rice paddies as they are, with no extra work done to them. The azolla blocks light into the water, making it difficult for new weeds to grow.

Sake made with pesticide-free rice has a different power. It has a clear, clean minerality in the aroma. Perhaps it is the awareness that the sake is made from rice grown in clean rice paddies, but above all, I feel that it is sake that should be drunk. Just like rice cultivation, sake cultivation is also an agricultural activity,” smiles Mr. Matsuse.

Sake brewing that makes the most of the rice’s unique characteristics

The man in charge of sake brewing at Matsuse Brewery is Keizo Ishida, who has served as toji, the chief brewer of sake, for the past 10 years.

When I joined the brewery in 2001, the Yamada-Nishiki variety itself had great value, and the best was from Hyogo Prefecture. Then, how about the Yamada-Nishiki from Ryuoh? That was the extent of my understanding of the Yamada-Nishiki of Ryuoh Town. However, as we brewed and compared each farmer, we began to realize that the taste of sake made from sandy soil is different from that of sake made from clay soil. It was a minute difference, but there was an absolute difference that did not change no matter how many times we did it,” he said.

The taste of sake is largely determined by human hands, such as the degree of rice polishing and the brewing process, and Mr. Ishida felt uncomfortable with the idea of changing the taste of sake one after another to suit personal tastes and trends, and then being told, “This is our local sake. He brews rice grown in a natural environment as neutrally as possible. He says he wants the resulting sake to show the differences in the soil, climate, and environment.

The history of the brewery creates the taste of the sake.

Matsuse’s brewery is neither air-conditioned nor equipped with state-of-the-art equipment. The walls and ceilings are coated with persimmon tannin for preservation and protection against insects, and the building is carefully cared for and used. Mr. Ishida calls these warehouses ” antiques ” because of the beautiful luster and candy-colored tints they have acquired. Generally, antiques are objects to be held in one’s hands, such as vessels and furniture, to be enjoyed with the eyes and cherished. It is a rare happiness to be able to work in the midst of antiques and be surrounded by them. The history of the brewery and the wisdom and thoughts of its predecessors may also be important factors in determining the taste of sake.

Returning to the starting point and simplifying

Mr. Ishida says that the best sake is made at this brewery using local rice and water. He wants to keep the sake as neutral as possible so that the character of the land can be expressed. With this in mind, he started the ” kimoto” brewing method, which was mainly practiced in the Edo period (1603-1868) to encourage fermentation by the power of nature.

I believe that if you only aim for recognition in the sake competition, you will only be able to think in an industrial way. I believe that is not good. In my current process, I don’t add yeast or lactic acid, and I don’t do much analysis such as measuring acidity. Even so, it is still possible to make sake. Sake brewing was originally done with pesticide-free rice, using the “ikuhashi-zukuri” method. If we can go back to the techniques and thoughts of the people who faced this process, I believe we can express craft in the true sense of the word.

What kind of sake is Mr. Ishida aiming for? He replied, “It should have a familiar texture. It should be a sake with a familiar taste, one that you can naturally feel when you drink it and think, ‘That’s the usual taste.

Blue” series brewed by soil

The “Blue” series is made from Yamada-Nishiki produced in Ryuoh, and brewed according to different soils. This junmai daiginjo has the flavor and richness typical of rice, and when compared, it is easy to see how the expression of the rice changes depending on the soil in the rice paddies where the rice was grown. If you look at the brand page “Origins of Blue” and learn about the differences in soil and the scenery seen from the rice paddies before drinking, you will feel as if you can even feel the wind blowing in the area and the sound of swaying ears of rice.

The brewery selects a few regions each year, so you can enjoy the combination of each year’s wines and compare them with each other.

AZOLLA” expresses nature

AZOLLA” is an evolution of the “Blue” series and symbolizes Matsunoshi ‘s commitment to rice.

It is made from Yamada-Nishiki grown locally in Ryuoh, without any pesticides or chemical fertilizers during the growing period. The name “Azolla” was chosen to symbolize the pesticide-free nature of the brewery.

The clear, gentle, yet dense flavor is considered ” one of the ideal forms ” of Matsu no Tsukasa.

Grateful for the land, we create a taste that can only be found here.

Matsuse says that he is still searching for what makes Ryuoh unique. I want to use pesticide-free rice grown in Ryuoh to make sake that people around the world will say tastes great. I am happy to continue to do so,” he says, his face calmly and happily gazing into a future he has yet to see.

The post As the Soil Changes, So Does the Taste of Sake: The Challenge of Matsuse Sake Brewery to Express the Characteristics of the Land with Sake / Ryuoh Town, Shiga Prefecture, Japan first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Japan has three major brands of Wagyu beef: Omi beef, Kobe beef, and Matsusaka beef. Of these, Omi beef is the oldest Japanese beef brand, dating back more than 400 years. We visited Fujii Ranch, one of the few farmers producing Omi beef that engages in integrated management of breeding and fattening, and asked them about their passion for producing healthy and delicious beef.

Omi Beef” was born in an era of meat bans.

The history of Omi beef goes back 400 years. During the Edo period (1603-1868), when meat was still banned in Japan, the Hikone clan was the only clan officially allowed to slaughter cattle, as it was customary for the clan to offer cow hides to the shogunate every year for use in the camp drum. Although slaughtering cows was done for self-sufficiency of cow hides, once the hides were removed, the meat remained. Omi beef is said to have originated when the clan began selling beef marinated in miso as a nourishing medicine, without violating the prohibition on meat.

Omi beef is characterized by its fine and tender texture and its beautiful “sashi” (a grain-like grain). Sashi is a mesh of fat in the lean part of the meat. Omi beef has a good mixture of meat and fat, and the sweet fat is said to melt in the mouth.

Ohnaka District, a major production area of Omi beef

Omihachiman City is located in the eastern part of Shiga Prefecture. The Ohnaka area, located in a corner of the city, is a major production center of Omi beef, with one-third of the prefecture’s beef cattle concentrated in an area of about 10 square kilometers.

The area was initially the largest among the areas around Lake Biwa that were reclaimed as a means of solving the postwar food shortage, and agriculture centering on rice cultivation was prosperous. There are about 40 livestock farms in the district, some of which raise only Omi beef, while others raise large crossbreds that are a cross between Holsteins and other dairy cattle and Wagyu cattle for food.

The definition of Omi beef is “Japanese black cattle bred for the longest time in Shiga Prefecture. Compared to other beef brands, which have strict standards for meat quality grade and number of days of fattening, this definition may seem a bit broad, but this is one of the characteristics of Omi beef that makes the differences among producers stand out.

One of the Few Producers Engaging in Integrated Management

Mr. Norio Fujii, who runs the Fujii Farm, is engaged in integrated management of Omi beef breeding and fattening in the Ohnaka area. His father’s generation settled in the area and converted to livestock farming together with neighboring farmers when the policy of reducing rice acreage was introduced. Mr. Fujii has loved cattle since childhood, and after studying agriculture at a junior college, he chose to become a farmer without hesitation.

In general, beef cattle production is separated into “breeding management,” which aims to produce calves, and “fattening management,” in which the calves are raised to adulthood and shipped.

The work involved in breeding and fattening is completely different, and it is very difficult for a single farmer to do both. The reality is that many people who start out quit soon after starting because if they fail, their productivity immediately drops and they cannot make ends meet as a farmer,” says Fujii. For example, in terms of breeding, the key to management is how to reduce the number of days of empty births by inseminating the animals without missing the timing of estrus, which differs from one individual to another. On the other hand, in fattening, the key is to feed the cows as much food as possible and keep them healthy and stress-free.

If we want to continue to do this, we have no choice but to try integrated management.

Fujii says that it is very difficult to combine breeding and fattening, each of which requires completely different knowledge and experience, but it is worth the effort.

The number of farmers running breeding operations is gradually decreasing due to the aging of managers and lack of successors, and the price of calves is on the rise. But that does not mean that the selling price of meat will continue to rise. We were originally a farmer specializing in fattening cattle, but if we continue to only fatten cattle, we will be caught between buying expensive calves and selling them at a low price. We decided that if we wanted to continue raising Wagyu cattle, we had no choice but to do it all ourselves.

Does feed determine how tasty a cow is?

It is said that the quality of beef depends largely on the pedigree of the cattle. However, according to Fujii, the quality of the fat is greatly influenced by the type of feed fed to the cattle.

If you feed too much high-calorie feed, the fat will become tough and the meat will cause indigestion. Also, if you feed too much formula feed to calves because you want them to grow quickly, they will get too fatty and easily get sick, and eventually they will not continue to eat a lot of feed until the end of their lives. It is important to first create a stomach that will allow the cows to continue eating plenty of food, by considering the balance between roughage (mainly grass) and compound feed mixed with corn and other feeds.

Aiming for sustainable livestock farming through “recycling-oriented farming

According to the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries of Japan, the self-sufficiency rate for animal feed in Japan is low, at about 25% in 2021. In particular, only 13% of feedstuffs, such as corn and other concentrated feeds, are produced domestically. Even for cattle raised in Japan, the majority of feed is from foreign countries.

I want to raise Omi beef on home-grown feed from birth to shipment . By growing his own straw and grass, which are necessary for raising Omi beef, he is able to prevent diseases caused by imported feed that does not suit his constitution and to ensure stable production of calves. The cattle grow fodder in the rice paddies, eat the grass that is produced, and return the cattle manure to the rice paddies to make more fodder. The use of cattle manure helps reduce the use of chemical fertilizers, and the self-sufficiency of feed helps reduce production costs. This recycling of resources is the key to a sustainable rearing method.

Pursuing deliciousness without being restricted by ratings

The highest grade of beef is considered to be “A5 rank 12. The conditions for the highest grade are a high degree of tannin and good marbling, and only one out of every 30,000 head of beef can be rated as A5. But is this rare meat really “good for everyone”?

People say, “It is a matter of course that the beef is A4 rank or higher, but anything lower than that is called Omi beef. However, for us, A2 or A3 beef is Omi beef. They are all raised in the same land with the same care and attention. The most important thing is that they are healthy and stress-free, and that they continue to eat well until the end of their lives. We are not only concerned with the amount of sinew, but are also conscious of creating a good balance of lean and fat so that the aroma when the meat is cooked is appetizing. We want to raise cattle that will be delicious to all kinds of people.

Fujii Farm has about 100 head of cattle. It is not a large ranch, but the cows are eating freely in a spacious barn with plenty of sunlight and good ventilation. In the ever-changing livestock industry, we could see a ray of hope for those involved in the meat industry in Mr. Fujii’s efforts to create new possibilities with a heart for the gift of life.

The post Fujii Farm, which is engaged in integrated management of Omi beef, producing healthy and tasty cattle / Omihachiman City, Shiga Prefecture, Japan first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Hyakusaiji Temple, selected as one of the 100 best places in Japan for autumn foliage and known as one of the best autumn foliage spots in Shiga, is one of the oldest temples in Shiga, founded by Prince Shotoku. Outside of the fall foliage season, it is an atmospheric old temple surrounded by tranquility, and is said to have been praised as “heaven on earth” by the Portuguese missionary Luis Frois.

A power spot where you can feel the breath of nature

Hyakusaiji Temple is a temple of the Tendai sect of Buddhism located in the Koto area on the east side of Lake Biwa. Together with nearby Saimyoji Temple and Kongorinji Temple, it is known collectively as the ” Koto Sanzan” (three mountains of Koto ), and is crowded with many tourists who enjoy the autumn leaves in autumn.

Located deep in the mountains in the middle of the Suzuka mountain range, the temple grounds cover an area of 83 hectares, with approximately 5,000 deciduous trees and 25,000 evergreen trees growing wild. The temple is also known as ” Hyakusai-dera (Temple of a Hundred Colors )” because of the variety of plants that adorn the temple from season to season, including fresh greenery, autumn leaves, and snowy landscapes.

One of the oldest temples in Omi Province

Hyakusai-ji Temple is said to have been built by Prince Shotoku more than 1,400 years ago during the Asuka period (710-794) in imitation of “Ryuun-ji Temple” in Baekje Province for the Baekje people (Kudarabito) who came from the Korean Peninsula. It is one of the oldest temples in Shiga, which has many historic temples. After the Tendai sect was established on Mt. Hiei during the Heian period (794-1185), it became a temple of the Tendai sect and prospered through the Muromachi period (1333-1573).

Longing for the country of Baekje beyond the setting sun

Baekje Temple is located on the 35th parallel of north latitude, and Baekje Province was 880 km away to the west via Mount Hiei and Mount Kurama. It is said that many visitors remembered their homeland beyond the setting sun from the Baekje Temple.

Heaven on Earth” that fascinated Nobunaga and Luis Frois

It is also known as a historical stage for famous figures. It is said that Nobunaga Oda, a great leader of the Warring States period, was so fascinated by this temple that he decided to make it his only imperial temple during his lifetime. The missionary Luis Frois, who was visiting Japan from Portugal at the time , praised the temple as “Heaven on Earth, 1,000 monks” and said it was such a splendid temple. Later, however, Hyakusai-ji Temple was judged to have been used to hide Rokkaku’s army, which was hostile to Nobunaga, and the temple was burned down by Nobunaga.

In the Edo period (1603-1867), the Tokugawa Shogunate and the Hikone Clan donated funds to rebuild the main hall, Niomon Gate, and Sanmon Gate (Red Gate), which still remain today.

A “famous garden with a distant view of the world” where the historical stage of Omi can be seen from all over the country.

About 400 meters up the approach from the Hyakusai-ji Temple gate is the “Honbo Kikenin,” a large pond-viewing garden named ” Famous Garden of the Distant View from Above” facing the Shoin.

The garden is built with a combination of various huge rocks with the Suzuka Mountains in the background, and a mountain stream flows from the mountain into the pond where the carp swim.

The garden continues toward the mountain, and from the viewing platform at the top of the garden, one can see Mount Hiei, the historical stage of Omi, and the Koto Plain.

Mysterious space created by moss-covered rocks

Around the garden, huge moss-covered rocks remain in their original state. Around the temple, massive stone walls and stone steps remain as they were when the temple was built, giving it the appearance of a mountain castle, and it has been used as a filming location for many historical movies and TV dramas.

Just standing in this mysterious space where nature and history are in harmony seems to heal and purify the mind.

The main hall, Niomon gate, and temple gate are just a few of the highlights of the temple.

The main hall of Hyakusai-ji Temple houses a 3.2-meter tall statue of the eleven-faced Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva, one of the largest existing in the Nara period. It is one of the largest existing wooden Buddhas of the Nara period. It is also called “Ueki-Kannon” (meaning “Goddess of Mercy”), because it is said that Prince Shotoku found a sacred cedar tree in the mountains that emitted light and carved the tree while it was still standing. When the main hall of the temple was burned down by Nobunaga, the monks carried the tree 8 km deep into the mountains and escaped the disaster.

Akamon (red gate), the entrance to Hyakusai-ji Temple

The vermilion-lacquered gate at the entrance to the temple grounds is commonly called ” Akamon (red gate). The contrast between the green of the fresh greenery and the orange of the autumn leaves makes it a beautiful spot for photographs. There is only a temporary parking space here, so if you are visiting by car, be careful not to drive past the gate.

It is said that touching the large straw sandals (about 3 meters long) displayed at the Niomon gate will bring good luck for physical health and longevity without illness. It is said that Hiroyuki Itsuki, the Naoki Prize-winning author of “Hyakudera Pilgrimage,” also touched the straw sandals to pray for the fulfillment of his wish to visit Hyakudera.

Bodaiju tree in full bloom in summer

The south garden stretches from the gate to the front gate. In summer, the lovely flowers of the linden tree are in full bloom, and an elegant fragrance wafts through the air. The flowers are the offspring of a 1,000-year-old linden tree that grows beside the main hall. The fragrance of the flowers attracts bees and other small insects, which gather to feed on the nectar and make their wings sing. The fragrance of the flowers is a reminder of the small life that lives in this area.

In addition, there are a variety of other spots within the temple precincts, such as the 430-year-old Kannon cedar tree, Benten-do Hall, and the approach with its moss-covered stone walls, all of which have remained unchanged for 1,400 years.

While the autumn foliage season when the entire mountain is dyed bright red is a good time to visit, the morning precincts are quiet and the sunset over Lake Biwa is a sight to behold, so enjoy not only the autumn leaves but also the “hundred colors” of the temple.

The post Ancient temple founded by Prince Shotoku. Hyakusaiji Temple, which retains the atmosphere of a mountain castle/Higashi-ohmi City, Shiga Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

A stream of olive-colored glaze covers the well-honed form. The charm of the vessels created by potter Kiyooka Yukimichi is the wide range of color tones created by his uniquely blended glazes. The image of Shigaraki ware is overturned in a good way. Seeking “something that seems to exist but doesn’t,” he is bringing a new wind to Shigaraki ware.

The expression of glaze that stands out in a simple form

Mr. Kiyooka’s pottery is simple, yet fascinating with its rich and unique expression. The key to this is the use of glaze. He uses a variety of glazes, including shoshakuyu (crystal white glaze) and kaibakuyu (grayish white glaze), which allow the viewer to experience the warmth of the original clay of the pottery, as well as blue ash glaze and olive-colored ash glaze, which have different textures, to create new vessels. He is constantly receiving offers from galleries in Japan and abroad, and is expected to become one of the leading Shigaraki ceramic artists of the future.

At the farthest end of Shigaraki

Mr. Kiyooka’s studio is located in Miyajiri, Shigaraki Town, Koka City, Shiga Prefecture. Shigaraki is a town that has long flourished in the pottery industry because of its high quality clay. Today, Shigaraki has become a tourist spot that attracts many visitors to tour the Shigaraki pottery kilns, but Mr. Kiyooka has set up his workshop in an abandoned factory in the most remote village in Shigaraki. It is a quiet place where you hardly meet anyone,” he says. There are only houses in the surrounding area, and he works alone, carefully and deliberately, on his vessels.

Guided by the clay to Shigaraki

Mr. Kiyooka was born in Tokyo. He grew up in Hokkaido and spent his school years in Yokohama. After that, he entered the Department of Crafts at Osaka University of Arts, which he was interested in because of a childhood friend who had attended the school. However, upon entering, he was not very interested in ceramics as an object, which was taught there. So, after graduating from the university, he decided to pursue a career in manufacturing rather than as an artist, and found employment at a Shigaraki-based ceramics manufacturer that made umbrella stands and other products. When asked why he chose Shigaraki, he replied, “Shigaraki clay was easy for me to handle when I was working at the university. It was not too delicate, and even if I made something rough, it would still be accepted. The clay led Mr. Kiyooka to Shigaraki, a place he had never been to before.

Between the gap between “what is required” and “what I want to make

A turning point for Mr. Kiyooka came when he had lived in Shigaraki for several years. He was asked by the owner of a restaurant he knew to make some vessels for him. He asked me to do as I pleased. I was asked to do as I pleased, and it turned out to be more popular than I had imagined. I thought, ‘This is the most interesting job I’ve ever had,'” he says. This experience sparked Mr. Kiyooka’s creativity.

The desire to make tableware began to grow, and Mr. Kiyooka switched jobs to work at a ceramics factory that made tableware. He began making mass-produced vessels at the company during the day, and after work, he began to work on the potter’s wheel in his own workshop. This lifestyle continued for 10 years, but gradually he began to feel a sense of discomfort in his work.

I was in charge of developing new products, but the gap between what could be sold as a product and what I wanted to make was getting bigger. I found that the pieces with a different glaze flow, which would have been rejected as “B” pieces, seemed better to me. This feeling that what he wanted to make was not wanted here drove him to become independent.

Different places accept different products in different ways.

When he first started out on his own, Mr. Kiyooka’s unique creations were not well understood. One day, he participated in a craft fair in Matsumoto for the first time, recommended by others, and sold out on the first day. He was surprised to find that there were so many people who accepted his style, even if the place of presentation was different.

He was surprised to find that there were so many people who accepted his style if he presented his work in a different location. Gradually, the number of people who understood his work increased, and the number of galleries that carried his work also increased.

Something that seems to exist, but doesn’t.”

What Mr. Kiyooka values is ” something that seems to exist but does not. The shapes are simple and easy to use, yet they are not something that can be found anywhere.

Take, for example, the jugs on the shelves in his workshop. Although it is ceramic, it has a metallic texture and an antique-like taste. In order to create an iron-like atmosphere, the vessel is not thick. When you lift it up, expecting it to be heavy, you may be surprised to find that it is so light and thin.

If I were the user, I would enjoy thinking about what I would use it for, so I try not to put too much thought into how I would use it, ” he says.

Olive ash glaze with deep colors

One of his recent masterpieces is a piece using olive-colored ash glaze. This is achieved by using a firing method called “cooling reduction” in a gas kiln, which produces a gradation of flowing glaze. Failure is a given. If you don’t fail, you won’t discover anything new,” he says. He found that an electric kiln produces too beautiful a finish, and a wood-fired kiln is too accidental and uncontrollable, so he settled on a gas kiln.

The flame of a gas kiln produces a unique deep hue. The glaze creates a unique deep color, and no two pieces are alike, with different expressions depending on the angle of view. It is a beauty that one could stare at forever and never get tired of.

To give shape to an ideal image

To give shape to the ideas in his head, he began using ” tatara molding ” about four years ago. Tatara molding is a technique in which clay, stretched into a plate-like shape called tatara, is pressed into a plaster mold. Tatara molding is mainly used to make oval plates. The elliptical pattern can be rounded, slender, and in a sense limitless, so it is easier to express complex shapes with tatara than with rokuro,” he says.

He says that he is often inspired by the reactions of customers at his exhibitions. He is always willing to take on new challenges in pursuit of the ideal forms that spring up in his mind.

Pursuing an unseen landscape

While working, Mr. Kiyooka listens to other people’s voices on the radio or YouTube. He says shyly, “Maybe I miss the sound of other people’s voices because I’m alone all the time,” revealing a charming side to him.

I feel like my sense of what is just right is changing little by little,” she says. At first, I tended to express cool-looking vessels with a lot of decoration, but when I put them on the table, their presence was too strong…. I have changed to dishes that retain the texture of the clay and fit in well with other dishes when placed together, and that complement each other without being too assertive when served.

Mr. Kiyooka’s next goal is to go abroad. He says he would like to see the reaction of people in European countries such as Denmark, France, and Spain. He is looking forward to seeing how his works, which are unlikely to be found anywhere else, and which do not resemble anyone else’s, will be accepted abroad, beyond nationality.

The combinations of clay and glaze are limitless. I am sure there are views that no one has noticed yet. I want to challenge what no one has done before. In the way he answers our interview without hesitation, a quiet passion can be seen. His stoic pursuit of his own expression without being bound by conventional frameworks is sure to shake off the concept of Shigaraki ware and create a new genre of Kiyooka Yukimichi.

The post Trust your senses. Shigaraki ware potter Kiyooka Yukimichi, who charms with his glaze / Koka, Shiga Prefecture, Japan first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Lake Biwa is the largest lake in Japan. Located on the shore of the lake is the “Sagawa Art Museum,” which is called a “floating museum. The site is boldly lined with water, and the three modern buildings built to float on the water create a unique and mysterious space. This exceptional museum, where visitors can view the works of three of Japan’s greatest masters all at once, creates new encounters between visitors, art, and nature.

Art Museum Surrounded by Nature on the Shore of Lake Biwa

The Sagawa Art Museum is located in Moriyama City in the southwestern part of Shiga Prefecture, a region rich in nature with Mount Hiei in the distance to the west. The museum consists of two buildings: the main building, which seems to float in the water garden that occupies most of the site, and an annex that has exhibition rooms under the water. The monotone-toned building has a large, straight roof with supporting pillars lined up in a regular pattern, reminiscent of a solemn temple. The architecture, which blends well with the beautiful natural environment along the shores of Lake Biwa, has been highly acclaimed and has received numerous awards, including the Good Design Award.

Opened based on the collection of the founder of Sagawa Express

The Sagawa Art Museum opened in 1998. Sagawa Express, known for its “flying legs” logo, began as part of its 40th anniversary project, aiming to contribute to the promotion and development of art and culture. The founder of Sagawa Express had always had a deep knowledge of art, and it was his long-cherished wish to open an art museum with his own collection. After the founder passed away, Eiichi Kuriwada, the current director of the museum, followed his wishes and opened the museum, which houses the world’s finest works of art.

Museum Floating on Water

From the entrance to the main building, visitors walk through a corridor along the water garden. As you gaze at the water bobbing around your feet and think of Lake Biwa, you will feel as if you are walking on the surface of the lake. The wind from Lake Biwa caresses the surface of the water in the water garden, and the shimmering shadows of the water are reflected on the walls and ceiling, which explains why this place is called a “floating museum. The ” Ezo Deer ” in the water garden was created by sculptor Tadayoshi Sato in 1971 to commemorate the Winter Olympics held in Sapporo.

A Luxurious Collection of Japan’s Finest Art

The most significant feature of the Sagawa Art Museum is its permanent collection of works by three leading Japanese artists : painter Ikuo Hirayama, sculptor Tadayoshi Sato, and ceramicist Raku Kichizaemon XV.

Initially, the museum was intended to focus mainly on the founder’s collection, but if it were only a collection of items collected by one individual’s taste, it would resemble a museum of hidden treasures. When the museum opened in 1998, Ikuo Hirayama was considered the best in the world of Japanese painting, and Tadayoshi Sato was the best in the world of sculpture. In 2007, the Raku Kichizaemon Museum was opened to exhibit the ceramic works of Raku Kichizaemon XV, who has been making Raku ware in the same way for over 400 years in Kyoto, the birthplace of Sagawa Express Co. Thus was born the current Sagawa Art Museum, which focuses on three leading contemporary artists.

Ikuo Hirayama, a Japanese painter who prayed for peace

Ikuo Hirayama is a Japanese-style painter from Hiroshima Prefecture. Considered by many to be the greatest of postwar Japanese-style painters, he served as president of Tokyo National University of Fine Arts and Music and as chairman of the Japan Art Academy.

The caravan teams that led camels across the desert were a symbol of peace for Hirayama, and “The Morning of Ouran,” “The Evening of Ouran,” and “The Moon of Ouran,” which depict morning, evening, and night scenes with caravan teams as motifs, are representative works of the artist’s. Many of his works are richly colored, especially the mysterious blue color called ” Hirayama blue,” which is expressed by rock paints made from lapis lazuli, azurite, and other gemstones.

Although Hirayama had avoided using war as a subject matter due to his own war experiences, he was moved by the eyes of children he met in Sarajevo during the civil war and painted “Prayer for Peace – Sarajevo War Scar”, which is a very rare work depicting the war itself.

Sculptor Tadayoshi Sato pursues the beauty of humanity

Sculptor Tadayoshi Sato’ s most notable feature is that he has continued to create Japanese people. When Sato began sculpting in the early postwar period, most of his models were deeply sculpted Westerners, but he dared to pursue the ordinary “human beauty” seen in everyday life, and this is what drew his attention. At first, he was ridiculed as “Sato’s filth,” but in 1952, his head sculpture “Gunma no Hito” was highly acclaimed as ” the first work by a Japanese hand to express a Japanese face,” and he became the first Asian to hold a solo exhibition at the Rodin Museum in Paris, and became one of Japan’s leading sculptors. He became the first Asian to hold a solo exhibition at the Rodin Museum in Paris.

The Sagawa Art Museum has more than 180 works in its collection, including his representative ” Hat Series,” as well as statues of children and heads, and constantly exhibits sculptures and drawings that match the theme of the day.

Sato is known for his realism and excellent drawing skills, and his works allow viewers to feel the breath of the models and their inner lives.

Raku Kichizaemon XV, a potter of Raku ware for 450 years

The Raku Kichizaemon Museum exhibits the works of Raku Kichizaemon XV, a ceramic artist. Raku Kichizaemon is the head of the Raku family, which has been in existence for 450 years since he created Raku tea bowls under the inspiration of Sen no Rikyu in the Azuchi-Momoyama period. The works on display here are those of Raku Kichizaemon XV, who succeeded to the Raku name in 1981.

Surprisingly, the exhibition space itself was also Raku’s own idea. Based on the concept of ” Shuhari,” which means to follow the teachings of one’s master, to develop and create new works by following his techniques, the museum has an underground exhibition room buried in a water garden, which is rare for an art museum.

Since its opening in 2007, the museum has held the “Raku Kichizaemon X” series of exhibitions in collaboration with places and things that are dear to Raku Kichizaemon XV, including native Indonesian art and works influenced by the French climate. The challenging new works created with each collaboration continue to surprise and inspire viewers.

Sitting at the same level as the water surface

Another must-see exhibit at the Raku Kichizaemon Museum is the “Teahouse” attached to the exhibition room. The teahouse, also designed by Raku, is located on the first basement level, and visitors can enjoy the view of the water surface as they walk from the entrance, through the water and the booths to the ground level, and finally to the hall.

Raku Kichizaemon XV placed great importance on the line of sight. By lowering the floor to a level as close to the surface of the water as possible, Raku Kichizaemon wanted visitors to sit at the same eye level as nature and feel the sensation of being one with nature on an equal footing.

Feel the relationship with nature through all five senses.

Normally, the hall is separated from the outside by glass, but these glass doors can be opened wide. The glass doors can be opened wide to create an extraordinary space away from the hustle and bustle of daily life. If you feel the breeze on the surface of the water on your skin and listen to the rustling sound of swaying plants and trees, you may experience a sense of becoming one with nature that you would normally overlook.

A series of fascinating special exhibitions are being held one after another.

The Sagawa Art Museum also holds a wide variety of special exhibitions, including “Banksy & Street Artists” and “Picasso – The Origin of Inspiration” in 2022, and the popular “Design Ah Exhibition in SHIGA” attracted 140,000 visitors. The museum as a whole offers a variety of exhibitions throughout the year. The entire museum strives to offer a variety of genres of art throughout the year.

Experiences that hone the senses

The Sagawa Art Museum delves into the worlds of three of Japan’s finest artists from a variety of perspectives, and presents different expressions with the passage of time and the changing of the four seasons. The mysterious space created by the combination of nature, the building, and the artwork is truly one-of-a-kind. Visitors can feel their senses being refined as they lose themselves in the extraordinary atmosphere of floating on the surface of the water. This museum will bring you such an experience.

The post Architectural beauty in harmony with nature “Sagawa Art Museum” floating on the water/Moriyama City, Shiga Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

You find yourself using them every day.
The pottery of Furuya Seitosho, which produces pottery based on the concept of “accompanying people in their daily lives,” is just such a type of vessel.
They produce simple and warm “Kohiki” pottery that suits the lifestyle of the moment.
Each piece of pottery is handmade and is comfortable to hold in your hand.

Hirokazu Furutani is the eldest son of Nobuo Furutani, who was the pioneer of Shigaraki ware’s white “Kohiki” pottery, and the successor to Furutani Seitosho. While inheriting his father’s traditional ceramic technique of “konpiki,” he is pursuing the creation of unique konpiki vessels that fit in with the lifestyle of the times.

Easy-to-use white vessels

Convenient “white dishes” that complement food and suit any situation. Among them, there is a type called ” kohiki. The reading of the word is “kohiki” or “kobiki. It is the official name of the technique, and is used to refer to all the white clay dishes that are glazed and fired after being coated with a white mud called “white makeup” on top of the base clay. Characterized by its simple and warm white color, it gently envelops any food and goes well with other dishes.

Furuya Pottery, which has a kiln in the pottery town of Shigaraki, has been focusing on “white glazed dishes” since its establishment in 1971.

Shigaraki ware tableware that brings out the texture of the clay

Shigaraki, known for its raccoon dog figurines, is a pottery town with about 200 kilns and pottery mills. Because the town is located where Lake Biwa used to be, it is blessed with clayey clay suitable for pottery. In the Warring States period, ceramics were used for tea ceremony utensils, and since the modern period, ceramics have been produced not only for tea ceremony but also for tiles, flowerpots, tanuki ornaments, and all kinds of other items. Today, the town is attracting attention for its artist’s tableware, which brings out the texture of the clay.

Furuya Pottery, located in a village a short distance from the center of town, is a popular pottery that produces warm and welcoming tableware that fits in well with both Japanese and Western dining tables.

Making the most of the characteristics of “kojiki” (powder-coated porcelain)

Furuya Seitosho uses a unique blend of red clay with high iron content. The clay is then coated with a white layer of mud and glazed. The simple earthiness of the clay can be seen a little beneath the surface of the vessel. I hope people can feel the layers of the clay, ” says Furuya. The three-layered structure of “red clay,” “white makeup,” and “glaze” gives the bowls their soft texture and charm.

However, the three-layer structure also has the drawback of being easily soiled. Therefore, Mr. Furuya established a new method of firing twice at a lower temperature. By firing twice, we were able to eliminate the tendency to stain and the lack of strength, making it easier for people to use it on a daily basis,” he says.

The taste of “kohiki” deepened by grinding

The process of scraping brings out the flavor of kohiki even more. After shaping and drying, the surface is scraped with a spatula or a planer to create patterns. As Mr. Furuya says, “The shaving process changes the piece completely,” the shading of the glaze on the three-dimensional lines and the presence of the underlying clay give the piece its unique flavor.

Consistent Ideas Passed Down from His Father

Mr. Furuya aspired to become a potter and studied ceramics at the Ceramic Experiment Station in Shigaraki and at the Rokuroku pottery school in Kyoto. When he was 22 years old and about to graduate, his father Nobuo fell ill. Nobuo decided to retire and take over his family’s pottery business, “Kosugi Seitosho. I was supposed to apprentice myself to an artist in Tajimi, but my father collapsed during that time, so I decided to return to my parents’ home,” he said. I was able to work with my father for about a year. He concentrated on learning to make vessels and honed his skills in the limited time he had, while tracing his memories of his father’s work that he had grown up watching as a child.

My father mainly made Japanese tableware, but the concept was for everyday use. My father’s and my tableware are different in form, but the concept is consistent. My father taught me how to make dishes that are the right size and lightweight, which are necessary to achieve this.

Seeking the voices of users

In his father’s generation, wholesaling to wholesalers was the main business, but after Mr. Furuya took over the workshop, he began to actively participate in nationwide pottery fairs and craft fairs in order to “get closer to the consumers. He has been actively participating in pottery fairs and craft fairs across the country to “get closer to the consumers.” This is because direct conversation with users enables him to keep his antenna up to date on what kind of pottery is in demand in the current era and lifestyle.

In fact, many people around us live in Western-style houses and eat Western food. So it is only natural that the type of dishes required are changing as well.

Modern Western dishes that go well with cakes. Stackable dishes that can be stored. Reasonably priced dishes that are not too expensive and can be used on a daily basis. In order to fulfill the various requests he heard on site, a wide variety of original tableware was added to the lineup.

Playful design created with a sense of freedom

One of Mr. Furuya’s most popular works is his fruit-shaped vessels, such as apples and pears. These vessels have a charm that makes you want to pick them up without thinking, and their soft curves are a distinctive feature.

The dishes are so beautiful that you can’t help but want to pick them up, and their soft curves make them easy to match with any dish.

What I want to create is a bowl that makes you feel at ease when you hold it in your hand. If the straight lines and curves are too neat, it will look uncomfortable in everyday life. That is why I always try to be conscious of softness.

Furuya’s experience as an artist has given her the ability to make her deliberate curves feel natural.

Seeking a More Realistic Voice

In a corner of the studio is a showroom designed to look like a living space. Visitors can actually hold the vessels in their hands and check their usability and texture while shopping. In addition, from July 2022, the main building standing next to the workshop has been renovated to open up the kitchen space. All of this is based on the belief that the value of a piece of pottery cannot be understood until it is used. He also holds cooking classes with chefs.

I’ve never known such a way of serving food,” he says! I never knew there was such a way to serve food! A dish is only complete when it is served. It’s a great learning experience to see the reactions of people who have used the dishes. Furuya’s dishes have a reputation for making food look delicious. Perhaps this is one of the reasons for her reputation.

Because it is something you use every day

Today, Furuya’s dishes are sought after at craft fairs around the country, and she has fans all over the country. However, he is not content to rest on his laurels and continues to pursue even better vessels.

He says, “It’s a bit of a birth pang, but I enjoy receiving new orders. I think I like the time I spend spinning the potter’s wheel more than anything. It makes me feel at peace.

They are like a companion that somehow accompanies you in every moment of your daily life, an indispensable part of your daily routine. Sometimes they are the main attraction on the dinner table, and sometimes they play a supporting role. They are the reliable tableware that one should have in one’s cupboard. Behind Ms. Furuya’s soft demeanor lies an unshakable core of strength. And yet, he is flexible and responsive. All of this seems to be reflected in the form of his work. We are sure that his hands will continue to produce vessels that will lead us into the future, taking into account the opinions of users and flexibly responding to changes in food culture and lifestyles.

The most important time in our daily lives is the time when the family gathers together to eat or relax over a cup of tea or coffee. I try to make pottery that gently accompanies people’s lives so that such time can be enriched.

The post Gentle texture and playful design of “Furuya Pottery’s” powdered dishes first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Meat must be marbled, and A5 rank is supreme. These days may be coming to an end. Sakaeya purchases beef from cows that have given birth, low grade cows, and cows that are no longer in service, and then offers them to the world in the finest taste. Today, Sakaeya, a butcher store in Kusatsu City, Shiga Prefecture, is constantly visited by food connoisseurs and chefs from all over Japan.

A butcher store that ” treats ” meat and reborn it

Omi beef is said to be the oldest brand of beef in Japan. In Shiga Prefecture, where Omi beef is produced, there is a butcher store that has attracted the attention of chefs and meat lovers nationwide. Sakaeya purchases carcasses with bones from the producers and sells them after “treating” them. Sakaeya is a butcher store, not a wholesaler. Therefore, they hang the carcasses they purchase from the producers, age them, and change the method of preservation depending on the individual, all in the belief that they bring out the maximum potential of the meat before selling it. The meat purchased by the owner’s discerning eye is then treated by artisans to make it even more delicious before being delivered to the consumer.

Showcase with 50 kinds of meat

When you open the door of the store, more than 50 kinds of meat are lined up in a showcase that fills your field of vision. At Sakaeya, it is common for each customer to be served for 20 to 30 minutes. Staff members always go to the front of the showcase and stand side by side to serve customers. Each staff member needs to have a wide range of knowledge because they listen to customers’ preferences and give them detailed advice on how to grill and cook the meat so that it can be enjoyed at home.

Some regular customers come once a month from Tokyo to order a month’s supply of meat, which is delivered on the 10th or 20th of the month, in the best possible condition at the time they want it, so many meat lovers in particular insist on coming here to buy their meat.

Made-to-order to suit the cook’s personality

The storefront aging room, which also serves as a display, is lined with powerful chunks of meat, accompanied by tags with the names of famous restaurants in Tokyo and other parts of Japan. All the meat sold to restaurants is custom-made for each restaurant. When he purchases a carcass with the bones attached, he instantly decides on a wholesaler for that restaurant and another for this restaurant, and tailors the meat to suit the individuality of the restaurant and chef.

I always purchase meat with the bone in and ship it with the bone out. For example, apples stay fresh when they are whole, but as soon as they are cut, they start to turn brown and oxidize. Meat is the same way. Once the bones are removed, that is when the oxidation begins. That is why I never ship meat to restaurants except with the bones. In order to provide the best meat, it is also important to know what the wholesaler thinks about the restaurant and the environment in which the meat is cooked. So in order to get to know each other well, I always have the chefs from the wholesaler visit here, and I also go to the wholesaler’s restaurant. I also take them to the ranch to see how the cows are raised. After repeating such exchanges several times, we start a relationship. The first step is to see if we can trust each other as human beings, and only after that do we start doing business. says Yoshinobu Niiho, the president of the company.

The High Barrier between Producers

Mr. Shinbo entered the meat business at the age of 19, and at 27 became independent and opened “Omi Beef Specialty Restaurant Saekaeya” in Kusatsu City, Shiga Prefecture. Although by nature he is a person who gets bored easily, his fascination with meat led him to stay in the industry for as long as he could.

Then the BSE (Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy) epidemic of 2001 changed his life forever. The lack of beef sales put him in a difficult position, and he wanted to know which ranches were raising what kind of cattle and what kind of bloodlines, so he visited each ranch one by one in Shiga Prefecture. At that time, producers and butchers rarely communicated directly with each other, and it was commonplace to not know who raised the meat when it arrived. It was common for the producer to have never eaten the meat he had raised, and there was a very high barrier between producers, butchers, restaurants, and customers. Hoping to change this situation as much as possible, we shot videos at every ranch we went to and uploaded them to our company website. The producers were pleased with the close-ups, and now they go to every region from Hokkaido to Okinawa, staying overnight in some cases, to purchase meat only from producers they feel they can trust.

Connecting Chefs and Producers

For chefs, butcher stores are often seen as “suppliers. I didn’t like the relationship between the meat we wholesale and the people who use it, and I wanted to turn that upside down,” says Shinbo. If producers, butchers, and restaurants do not work on an equal footing, the industry as a whole has no future. We are in a position to connect producers and chefs. By treating the meat and adding new value, we can buy more cattle from the producers and deliver delicious meat to the restaurants. Shinbo-san says that butcher stores that can create such a correct cycle will become more and more important in the future.

Breathing new life into meat through aging

Sakaeya has four refrigerators with different humidity and temperature conditions. Meat purchased bone-in from trusted producers is hung in these refrigerators, and then aged to the flavor of each restaurant before being transported to restaurants around the country.

The key to successful aging is the creation of bacteria suited for aging. Sakaeya’s refrigerators store “seeds” of meat that have been transformed into fossils over the past 15 years. Bacteria generated from these “seeds” spread throughout the storehouse and promote the ripening of the meat. The bacteria that are there now are suitable for aging, so the meat does not spoil, but they had to work very hard to get here. Depending on the meat, some meat is ready in two weeks, while others are not ready even after 40 days. In the past, when no change occurred after 40 days, he thought the meat had not matured long enough, and when he checked on it for 50 or 60 days, it began to rot instead of maturing. It is not just a matter of removing water and controlling humidity and temperature; ripening is only possible when the bacteria are at work. The aging process is a matter of breathing life into the meat entrusted to us by the producer and treating it according to the needs of the chefs who will use it. It took 15 years to find the best fungus that can produce truly delicious aged meat.

Tenderizing hard aged beef

Mr. Shinbo’s start in the aged meat business was with beef that had been born to term. In the livestock industry, hard beef is generally considered unappealing, and young heifers are considered more tender and tasty. After their service has been completed, heifers are 50 to 70 years old in human terms. Most are emaciated and thin, with brittle bones and no meat. Shinbo’s job is to re-fatten them over a period of six months, and then age them to loosen the fibers and give them a deeper flavor and make them more palatable.

I thought, “In a cool way, if I don’t do that, where are these kids going to go?” I thought, ‘If I don’t do that, where are these kids going to go? They will probably only be made into pet food or processed products. It is unlikely that they will become products that will be distributed to the general public. However, the producers would appreciate it if they could distribute them, and by buying them at a slightly higher price, the producers could buy new calves. I believe this is the proper cycle.

But just letting the beef rest is not the only way to ripen it.

These days, you can find the words “aged meat” in many restaurants, but it is frustrating to hear people say, “I got sick to my stomach after eating aged meat,” or “I have had it before, but it was not delicious.

Shinbo’s method of aging is called ” dry aging,” in which the surface of the meat is dried to condense the flavor and aroma inside, but of course simply placing the meat in a refrigerator does not remove the moisture. Of course, simply leaving the meat in the refrigerator is not enough to remove the moisture. If I find something different, I move the meat to another refrigerator to change the environment.

Meat is also a living thing, so it is important to take good care of it. When the time is right, I immediately contact the chef and ask him to make the necessary arrangements to use the meat. So it is very important to keep in constant contact with the chefs. We also give feedback to the producers on the results of our work, and ask them to use the feedback as a reference for how they should raise their produce in the future. Through the repetition of this kind of collaboration, an environment has been cultivated in which truly valuable cured meat is produced.

Pursuit of “Delicious Meat

Mr. Shimpo says he likes to buy A2-grade beef and make it taste as good as A5. He says he wants to create a completely new value that is different from the rating grade. There are no producers who raise cattle to A3 grade from the beginning,” he says. But since cattle are raised together, some of them may not be able to grow large because they cannot get enough food. All producers are under pressure to raise their cattle to A5 or they won’t be able to sell them. Therefore, by buying A3 cattle at a high price, producers can raise their cattle with peace of mind. It’s a small effort, but I think the livestock industry will be enriched if such a circle expands.

The butcher store is hard work, with meat weighing more than 30 kilograms having to be lifted and processed. He is not sure how far he will be able to go in his current position, but on the other hand, he also wants to start from scratch again. Every day I make new discoveries,” he says, “and there are always new things I want to try. My pursuit is always ‘delicious meat. I want to make meat that impresses me more and more, but I haven’t reached that point yet,” says Shinbo. Perhaps there is a new world that lies ahead of us because we have been facing the meat and seeking better relationships with chefs and producers.

Restaurant “Sejir” where you can taste Sakaeya’s meat

Sakaeya has a restaurant called “Sejir” attached to its store. The idea of having a place like a laboratory in a corner of the butcher store where people can grill and sample meat they have treated themselves was the impetus for the creation of Sejir.

Sejir serves Italian cuisine with meat created at Sakaeya as the main ingredient. Pasta and soups are also served, but the main emphasis is on enjoying the flavor of the meat above all else. Although the restaurant has recently become known locally, most of the customers come from Tokyo and other urban areas, as well as from overseas. Many regular customers come once a month, order a month’s worth of meat, dine at the restaurant, and leave.

Raising the Bar in the Butchery Industry

The butcher’s job does not end with selling meat. According to Shinbo, his job is to sell meat that he truly believes is the right meat, and to have the customer smile and say “delicious” when the cooked meat enters his or her mouth. It is the same for producers and chefs. It is difficult to raise the level of the livestock industry unless everyone involved shares the same commitment.

To that end, I want to break down the high barriers that still exist between us. Even if it is difficult for my generation, at least I want to leave an open environment for the next generation. We would like to focus on the future that Mr. Shimpo is aiming for, and the future of Wagyu, the pride of Japan.

The post The job of a butcher is to “raise” meat so that it tastes delicious. Aged meat brought to life at Sakaeya / Kusatsu City, Shiga Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Tsuchiyama in Koka City, Shiga Prefecture, is famous for its excellent tea production.
Omicha Marukichi is a long-established tea merchant that has been in this area for over 100 years.
As a specialist in hojicha, it offers a wide variety of hojicha and a wide range of related products.
You are sure to find a cup of supreme quality tea made with carefully selected ingredients and advanced techniques by tea professionals, including a “tea master Judan.

Over the past few years or so, hojicha has shown a steady increase in popularity.The “hojicha latte” style of tea has also become very popular.One of the first people to recognize the appeal of hojicha was Kenji Yoshinaga, representative of “Omicha Maruyoshi,” a roasted tea specialty store in the town of Tsuchiyama, one of Shiga Prefecture’s major tea-producing regions.

Roasted tea specialty store” established in Tsuchiyama, the largest tea production area in Shiga Prefecture

Tsuchiyama-cho, a town at the foot of the Suzuka Mountains, separates Shiga and Mie prefectures.The temperature difference between 35°C in summer and -5°C in winter is ideal for tea cultivation, and the town boasts the largest tea cultivation area and production in Shiga Prefecture.However, Shiga Prefecture ranks 13th in the nation in terms of tea production (in 2020), and is not well known as a tea-producing region.The number of tea farmers, which once numbered about 300, is now down to about 100.

Who is the man behind the “hojicha specialty store”?

In such a situation, Mr. Kenji Yoshinaga of “Roasted Tea Specialty Store Omi Cha Maruyoshi” is struggling to increase the name recognition of Shiga Prefecture-grown tea while devising a marketing strategy not found at other stores and offering high quality tea.Mr. Yoshinaga is the seventh generation of Maruyoshi Omi Cha, a tea wholesaler with over 100 years of history in Tsuchiyama-cho.He is also one of only 15 people in Japan to hold the title of “tea master 10th dan.He is a professional who takes rough tea leaves, which are processed by tea farmers, and turns them into products by sifting, blending (called gougumi), and heating the tea leaves.

What is a “tea master 10-dan”?

I would like to explain a little more about Mr. Yoshinaga’s title of “tea master 10th dan” here.

The 10th Dan of Tea Master is the highest rank in tea judging and appraisal skills, awarded at the National Tea Judging Techniques Competition held once a year by the National Federation of Tea Industry Youth Organization.It is said to be an extremely difficult task in the tea industry, and only 15 people have been certified in the 70 years since the competition was first held.The store’s hojicha tea is a perfect example of this discerning skill.

Bittersweet experience abroad made me realize the potential of hojicha.

He also wanted to sell the tea produced by his company as “Shiga tea,” but when Mr. Yoshinaga entered this industry around 2000, green tea consumption was steadily declining. Mr. Yoshinaga decided to seek new sales channels and began overseas sales.

Eventually, he began traveling to exhibitions in the United States, Singapore, China, and other countries, but no matter where he went, he did not get the response he had hoped for. The reactions of buyers who tasted sencha were mostly negative, describing it as “unpleasant,” “salty,” “bitter,” and “astringent.” Mr. Yoshinaga then noticed something.

“The hojicha tea I brought along as an afterthought was well received for its aroma and delicious taste.”

He also found that the reactions of young people in Japan were similar. Young people tend to dislike bitterness and prefer teas with a strong aroma. Feeling this, Yoshiyama decided to specialize in hojicha.

Throughout Maruyoshi’s history, the company has always adapted its business to the times. Fortunately, thanks to its accumulated expertise in roasting techniques—gained by taking on requests from other manufacturers—there was no hesitation in shifting focus to hojicha, a tea that emphasizes aroma. In fact, there was a sense of mission that this was a necessary transition.

I could see the way forward.

“I believe that the tea from Tsuchiyama is well-suited for hojicha. Due to the extreme temperature differences in the mountainous region, it takes time for the tea leaves to grow, but this results in a rich tea with a robust flavor and aroma. When roasting tea, the depth of flavor tends to diminish, but the tea from Tsuchiyama retains its flavor even after roasting,” says Mr. Yoshina.

Additionally, his experience as a tea merchant handling both sencha and hojicha has been invaluable in opening a hojicha specialty shop. However, he has decided to shift focus from being a “jack of all trades” to “specializing solely in hojicha.” He explained that this decision made the path forward clear.

At “Hojicha Specialty Store Omi-cha Maruyoshi,” which opened in 2014, the store is filled with various packaged products, and it’s surprising how many variations of hojicha can be enjoyed. Using domestically sourced high-quality tea leaves, they create hojicha using their own unique method, grinding it into a powder and adding honey to make “sugar-infused hojicha.” This product is popular among those who do not have the habit of brewing tea in a teapot, as it allows them to enjoy a delicious hojicha latte.

More than 100 different prototypes, “wide range” is the charm of hojicha.

The 10 standard types of hojicha are the result of Mr. Yoshinaga trying out over 100 different types. Even just looking at the tea leaves, you’ll be surprised at how different they look.

For example, the top-tier “Premium Tsuchiyama Hojicha” is made from the first flush buds of the tea leaves, carefully roasted at a low temperature. The green tea leaves appear unlike hojicha at first glance, but when you bring them close to your nose, a subtle roasted aroma wafts up. When sipped, the fragrance clears the nose, leaving a smooth umami flavor on the palate.

On the other hand, the most popular “Ton-gu Hojicha,” ranked fifth, is made from deeply roasted tea leaves with a direct flame, resulting in a dark orange color. It is favored by serious tea enthusiasts who seek a rich flavor, and its top-notch aroma also evokes the essence of hojicha.

As you can see, even though they are all called hojicha, each has its own unique character. Everyone is sure to find a flavor they love.。

Aroma and taste can be freely manipulated by roasting.

By the way, how do you create the various flavors of hojicha? Rather than differences based on the tea variety, the flavors are more influenced by the combination of factors such as the parts of the plant used (leaves, stems, etc.), the time of harvest, the method of picking, and the roasting temperature and duration.

For example, even using the same tea leaves, roasting at a low temperature results in a rich, full-bodied flavor, while roasting at a high temperature produces a lighter, more delicate taste with a fragrant aroma upon the first sip.

Additionally, the ability to capture the aroma of the tea leaves’ veins is a unique characteristic of hojicha. When roasted, the veins expand and release their aroma. The first flush tea leaves have soft veins, so when roasted, they emit a particularly sweet aroma. By understanding these characteristics and experimenting with various combinations, we strive to achieve the ultimate flavor.

Health benefits, such as reduced caffeine levels.

In addition to enhancing aroma, roasting also offers health benefits. Roasting is said to reduce caffeine content and increase pyrazine levels, which may help improve blood circulation.

When people think of hojicha, they may have the image of it being “cheaper than sencha” or “made from roasted old tea leaves,” but the hojicha offered by Omi Cha Marukichi, made from carefully selected tea leaves, is a product that proudly incorporates the extra step of roasting, as Yoshinao explains. The roasting technique that enhances the flavor of the tea leaves by several times is what adds value to the product.

A challenge for the entire production area.New aromatic hojicha” from Tsuchiyama

Mr. Yoshinaga has been working on a project to create a “local brand” in collaboration with tea farmers, tea merchants, and agricultural cooperatives in Tsuchiyama for the past four years.

In September 2022, he launched a new brand called “Tsuchiyama Hitoban Houji.”

The key to the aroma of “Tsuchiyama Overnight Hoji” is “wilt.

“Tsuchiyama Iwan Hōji” uses tea leaves that have been withered (ichō). Wilting is a method where harvested tea leaves are left in a well-ventilated area without immediately undergoing roasting, allowing the leaves to wilt and develop a vibrant “flowery aroma (hanaka).” The tea leaves release enzymes to protect themselves, and during the oxidation process, aromatic compounds are produced, which is the essence of this method. Taiwanese oolong tea, which is popular in Taiwan, is also made using this method.

Roasting withered tea leaves to create hojicha is a unique challenge and the core of this project. We aim to introduce a hojicha unlike any other, combining the vibrant aroma of tea leaves with the rich roasted fragrance, from Tsuchiyama. This endeavor was made possible by Yoshinao, a tea master with a 10th-degree certification in tea appraisal, who specializes in hojicha production.

The ‘Tsuchiyama Iwan Hojicha’ has established specifications such as ‘using tea leaves produced in Tsuchiyama,’ ‘using tea leaves with a high aroma that have been withered for over 12 hours,’ and ‘roasted by tea masters and producers in Shiga Prefecture and Tsuchiyama.’ Going forward, under these specifications, producers and tea merchants in Tsuchiyama will create their own unique ‘Tsuchiyama Iwan Hojicha.’

Take advantage of the strength of individuality that only a small scale can offer.Striking out with the pride of a tea-producing region

As mentioned earlier, Tsuchiyama is the largest tea-producing area in Shiga Prefecture, yet the number of tea farmers has decreased to about one-third of its peak.

However, Tsuchiyama Town still has many small-scale tea farmers with unique personalities. Due to their small scale, they can devote time and effort to withering the tea leaves and take the time to create “Tsuchiyama Iwan Hōjī,” and tea wholesalers are also working hard to develop roasting methods that bring out the individuality of each tea farmer. By leveraging these strengths, tea farmers and tea merchants are collaborating to create Tsuchiyama Ichiban Hojicha through a combination of their individual characteristics.

“We are currently experimenting with fermenting tea leaves, but fermentation is very complex. Depending on the climate, humidity, and variety, the possibilities are endless. Just because it works today doesn’t mean it will work tomorrow,”

Despite this, Yoshiyama seems to be enjoying the process. In this ‘Tsuchiyama Iwan Hojicha,’ he is not competing as a single shop but as a tea-producing region, betting everything on hojicha. The challenge of carrying the pride of tea master Kenji Yoshiyama and the potential of hojicha on the world stage is one to watch closely. We encourage you to try the hojicha that the Koka region is sending out to the world with the support of the entire tea-producing region.

With the diversification of eating habits in recent years, the way we enjoy tea has also changed dramatically.While responding flexibly to these changes, we will redouble our efforts to provide enjoyment and healing through the brewing, drinking, and knowing of tea.We invite you to experience the fragrant and flavorful world of Omi tea.

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The post Roasted tea specialty store Omi Cha Marukichi, created by 15 tea masters of the 10th Dan in Japan / Koka City, Shiga Prefecture, Japan first appeared on NIHONMONO.