When one hears the word “Japanese tea,” Shizuoka and Kyoto come to mind.In such a situation, “Sonogicha” from Higashisonogi, Nagasaki Prefecture, is slowly attracting attention from all over Japan.We visited Mr. Masatoshi Matsuo of “Chayu,” a tea farmer who is also actively trading with foreign countries, to learn more about the appeal of Sonogi tea, which continues to spread from Nagasaki to Japan and overseas.
 

Nagasaki’s Japanese tea, the best in Japan

Almost in the center of Nagasaki Prefecture.Higashisonogi, overlooking the calm waters of Omura Bay, is a town blessed with scenic spots and rich nature, including the valley “Ryutosen” (Dragon’s Head Spring).As you drive into the mountains, you will see tea plantations all around.The “Sonogicha” tea grown on the slopes with a mild climate and refreshing sea breezes is now attracting increasing attention in Japan, having won the top prize at a national tea fair for four years in a row.

What is “Sogicha,” which accounts for about 2% of the nation’s production?

Japanese tea is usually called “sencha,” which has a thin needle-like shape, but the main type of tea produced here in Higashisonogi is steamed tamaryokucha, which has a rounded shape.It is also called “Guricha” (meaning “green tea” in Japanese) because the tea leaves are curved in the shape of a Japanese “katadama” (a Japanese “jewel”), and it is characterized by its mild taste and less astringency than sencha.The flavor is extracted as the tea leaves slowly open up in the hot water, allowing the user to enjoy the changes in flavor and aroma each time the tea is poured.

In recent years, the tea farm Chayu has consistently ranked high at Japanese tea fairs throughout Japan, and has won the Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries Award, the Emperor’s Cup, and the Grand Prize at the Japan Tea Awards.

At the age of 35, he took over the family business and became a tea farmer.

The farm is located at an elevation of 400 meters above sea level, on a mountain slope overlooking Omura Bay in the distance. The tea fields of Chayu, spread out on the slopes of a mountain overlooking Omura Bay in the distance, were full of lush green tea buds that were just about to be harvested. Masatoshi’s father, Michio, planted tea trees here in 1970. Since then, he has been growing and producing Japanese tea. Masatoshi’s life surrounded by tea trees made him vaguely think that he would someday be involved in tea production as well. After attending a prefectural agricultural high school, he returned to his hometown after two years of training in tea production at the National Vegetable and Tea Research Institute in Shizuoka. In 2004, at the age of 35, he took over the tea farm and established Chayu, a company that handles everything from production to sales.

Drawing out the potential of the tea leaves by being close to nature

Most of the teas produced at Chayu are steamed Tamaryokucha, as mentioned above. Since there is no “rubbing” process to shape the tea leaves into a needle shape, the tea leaves are round. The tea leaves are rounded and rounded because there is no “rubbing” process to shape the tea leaves into a needle-like shape. Masatoshi says, “ I want to bring out the full potential of the tea leaves in terms of shape, taste, and aroma.” As Masatoshi says, Chachatomo’s steamed Tamaryokucha has a soft, sweet taste with little bitterness and bitterness, and is known for its smooth, easy-throating flavor.

The tea leaves are not overworked, and the tea leaves have a soft, sweet, and smooth taste. The tea fields are fertilized with organic materials such as bone meal and rapeseed oil pomace, and as little chemical fertilizers and pesticides are used as possible. Although this means that damage from vermin is unavoidable, the soil is soft and fertile, rich in earthworms and microorganisms, as a result of mixing in organic fertilizers.

Tea cultivation based on the environment of each field.

Furthermore, the unique topography of Higashisonogi, surrounded by the sea and mountains, brings diversity to the flavor of tea. In Higashisonogi, where there is not much flat land, the temperature and humidity vary slightly depending on the difference in elevation, from the sea coast to the slopes of the mountains. Masatoshi says, “We can’t mass-produce, but we can have fun pursuing the flavor of each field through trial and error. We try to make better tea every year, but it is difficult to get 100 points. I can’t beat the power of nature,” he says with a gentle smile.

Rare “Asatsuyu” tea that has won numerous awards

Currently, there are a total of eight varieties of tea grown at Chayu. Among them, “ Asatsuyu,” made from a variety called “Asatsuyu,” which is characterized by its sweetness and flavor with little bitterness and astringency, is the signature product of Chayu. Asatsuyu was originally selected from a native variety of Uji, Kyoto, and registered as a variety in 1953, but it is extremely rare, with only about 1% of all tea plantations in Japan growing it.

The warm climate here in Higashisonogi is also suitable for Asatsuyu, but it is one of the most difficult varieties to cultivate and produce. Masatoshi’s Asatsuyu has received numerous awards for its high quality, including the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries Award, theEmperor’s Cup, and the “ Japanese Tea Awards, ” in which the general public determines the quality of the tea.

Tea that you can drink every day and never get tired of it

While producing unique teas such as “Asatsuyu,” Chayu aims to provide a natural environment where tea is a part of daily life. Masatoshi says, “It is great to make award-winning teas that you can be satisfied with after just one cup, but we also want to make familiar teas that you will always want to drink. Masatoshi also actively holds events related to Japanese tea in hopes that people will become more familiar with Japanese tea in these days when many people are becoming less interested in Japanese tea.

Seasonal Tea Ceremonies

In Nagasaki and Tokyo, tea parties have been held regularly for the past 18 years. Along with homemade sweets made with local ingredients, he has been telling stories about the scenery of tea picking while brewing tea. He says, “I think it is important for people to know that tea is made in such a place by such people, rather than just drinking the tea that is served in front of them. Once people learn about the tea, they will become more interested in Japanese tea, and some of them will say they want to drink it.

Spreading the Appeal of Japanese Tea Abroad

In 2016, the company launched the “ Japanese Tea Germany Project ‘ with the philosophy of ’bringing authentic Japanese tea to Germany. In Germany, where tea culture, including herbal tea, is deeply rooted, imports of Japanese tea have increased significantly in recent years, coupled with a growing boom in Japanese food. It is now the second largest exporter of tea from Japan after the United States.

Japanese tea exports in 2021 (from the website of the Japan Tea Export Promotion Council)

In the project, Japanese tea that meets the EU’s strict standards is introduced to the market through surveys of local residents’ understanding of and preference for Japanese tea at tea stores, cafes, and restaurants throughout Germany. In Munich and other cities, Masatoshi often holds tea parties where he brews Japanese tea in front of the guests and talks about Japanese tea.

Masatoshi says, “So-called ‘green tea’ is sold everywhere, but it is often not a proper Japanese tea. But from our point of view, we want people to know and drink real Japanese tea. Otherwise, the tea we have worked so hard to produce will never reach anyone. It is with this in mind that we started our activities overseas as well,” says Masatoshi. Masatoshi says that his activities in Germany have gradually expanded, and when he held a tea party with the theme of pairing Japanese tea with a local course meal, the event was so popular that tickets were sold out immediately.

We paired ‘Asatuyu’ mizudashi with a course meal, which went surprisingly well together,” he said. And when I hear people say, ‘I want this tea so I can sell it,’ it makes me think that all those days of hard work in the tea fields were for this moment. It’s a new challenge that we can’t reach just by making tea leaves. I would like to continue to create more and more opportunities to share with our customers what we have put our hands into making.”

The Future of Japanese Tea

Our job is not only to make Japanese tea, but also to make sure that people drink it. That is why Masatoshi feels a sense of crisis about the current situation of “Japanese tea drinking away from Japan,” and has been involved in various activities. What he has realized is that it is not about promoting the correct way to brew and drink Japanese tea, but about how to enjoy Japanese tea. In order to do so, he says, it is necessary to have the courage to ignore the stereotypes that have been taken for granted in the tea industry.

The Tea Industry Enters a New Phase

The tea industry needs to propose a way to drink tea that tastes good without the trouble of brewing it in a teapot, although of course brewing tea in a teapot is wonderful. I don’t think there is any such thing as ‘first tea’ being good and ‘second or third tea’ not being good. Farmers work very hard to produce each type of tea, and there are tastes that are only suited to the tea leaves that are available at the time of harvest. What is the ideal Japanese tea for today’s life and for today’s people? I think it is time for the tea industry to consider this question.

Continuing to Pursue the Taste of Japanese Tea

About five years ago, the company began to use the kama-firi method, which used to be popular mainly in Kyushu. Today, production of kamabai tea has declined to the point where it is said to account for less than 0.03% of all Japanese teas, but its distinctive flavor and aroma, known as kamaka, still enjoys strong popularity.

Masatoshi says, “I want to try various things in order to create ‘delicious’ products that fit the future. Masatoshi’s vision of the future of Japanese tea is full of new possibilities.

One single type of tea tree can be transformed into such a wide variety of flavors just by changing the time of harvest or the production method. There is no such drink without any additives. There is nothing else I can do except make tea. That’s how much I love tea.

Masatoshi’s words and the look in his eyes show a joy that goes beyond his sense of mission to promote Japanese tea in daily life, to bring Japanese tea into people’s lives with love.

The post Delicious tea” that fits today’s times – “Sono Gicha” from Nagasaki to the world Masatoshi Matsuo, a tea friend / Higashisonogi, Nagasaki first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Founded about 180 years ago, it opened tea plantations in Kyoto from 1830 to 1843 and
began exporting Japanese tea when the port of Kobe opened.
It is also known for being the first store in Japan to serve coffee in its stores.
It can be said to be the origin of Japanese coffee shop culture.

Kobe Motomachi Dori Shopping Street is a representative of the exotic city of Kobe. The sweet and fragrant aroma of tea wafts through the air. Looking down, you see Houkodo, a long-established Uji tea shop. We asked Mr. Yasuyuki Vinoda, the sixth generation owner of this tea store with a history of about 190 years and one of only 15 people in Japan to hold the title of “tea master 10th dan,” about its history and the secrets behind the tea that has been loved for centuries.

Houkodo, a long-established tea shop with a 190-year history

Houkodo has a long history, having been established about 190 years ago. It began in the Edo period (1830-1843) when Genbei Higashi, the founder, opened his own tea garden in Higashiwazuka Village (present-day Wazuka Town) in Yamashiro Province, the main production area of Uji tea, and began to sell his tea throughout Japan. The tea’s fragrance was highly praised, and in 1858 he became a purveyor to the Matsudaira family, and received the current trade name ” Houkodo,” which means ” to keep the fragrance forever.

Location of the origin of coffee culture

What is interesting about Houkodo is that it was the first company in Japan to import coffee, in addition to its famous teas. After the fall of the Edo shogunate, the company established a base in Kobe and began exporting Japanese teas, importing coffee at the same time. This is even written about in textbooks. In addition to its early involvement in exporting Japanese tea to the rest of the world, Houkodo is truly the originator of Japan’s coffee shop culture. Yasuyuki Vinzuda, a tea master, is the modern-day inheritor of Houkodo’s history.

Tea master, Yasuyuki Suda, who succeeded the name “Azuma Genbei,” the sixth generation of the tea masters.

Mr. Kyoyuki Suda, the sixth generation of the tea master “Azuma Genbei,” who inherited the name of the founder “Azuma Genbei” from generation to generation and continues to carry on the history of Hokkodo, is a tea master of Hokkodo, pursuing delicious tea every day using traditional production methods and techniques. On this day, in addition to observing the tea ceremony, Nakata also tried his hand at gougumi. Gogumi is the process of blending teas of different varieties and steaming conditions to create a high-quality, beautiful tea. It is the last process that determines the taste and aroma of the tea we consume, and it is the process in which the tea master’s skill is tested the most. Nakata’s goal is to create “the finest Genmaicha,” which goes well with meals. He blends four or five types of tea leaves while listening to the characteristics of each tea leaf. The result this day was a bright green Genmaicha. It was easy to drink because it was not too rich, but did not lose its aroma.

Originally, a tea master was a person who produced tea. However, tea cannot be drunk simply by plucking the leaves that have grown up. Nowadays, a tea master is a person who has mastered the traditional processes to bring out the best flavor of tea, such as “gougumi,” “hiire,” and “toumi,” in which the leaves are picked and the lighter parts of the tea are sorted out by wind power. The number of people who have mastered the traditional process of extracting umami from tea is 15 in the past 70 years.

There have been 15 in 70 years. What is a Chashi-Judan?

The great thing about Mr. Vinoda is his ability to identify the characteristics of the tea. The National Tea Judging Technique Competition is held only once a year, where tea connoisseurs compete in their ability to appraise tea in four categories: variety, tea season, production area, and aroma. The title ” Chashi Judan ” is given to tea masters who have achieved the most excellent results in this competition and obtained the highest rank of Judan. Mr. Vinoda holds this title. Surprisingly, in the 70 years since the competition began, only 15 people have earned this title.
Therefore, although it is not a national qualification, it is considered a very prestigious title in the industry.

Nakata also tries his hand at goukumi

On this day, in addition to observing, Nakata also tried his hand at gougumi. Gogumi is the process of blending teas of different varieties and steaming conditions to produce a high-quality, beautiful tea. It is the last process that determines the taste and aroma of the tea we consume, and it is the process in which the tea master’s skill is tested the most. Nakata’s goal is to create “the finest Genmaicha,” which goes well with meals. He blends four or five types of tea leaves while listening to the characteristics of each tea leaf. The result this day was a bright green Genmaicha. It is easy to drink because it is not too rich, yet it does not lose its aroma.

Usually, hojicha and genmaicha are made from inferior-grade tea leaves, such as second- and third-grade tea leaves. Nakata dared to blend high-grade tea leaves and powdered green tea to create a tea that is both refreshing to drink and aromatic to enjoy. This was met with instantaneous response to his goal, and the skill of Mr. Vinzuda, who supported him in selecting teas from a vast array of teas to match their characteristics, was nothing short of astonishing.

Making tea facing Japanese tea

Houkodo continues to be loved even today, and this is not only due to Mr. Vinzuda’s presence. The company’s own tea garden in Wazuka-cho, Kyoto Prefecture, the main production center of Uji tea, is also a major factor. Mr. Vinegar’s tea master, Mr. Vinegar, uses his advanced tea appraisal skills to identify the characteristics of tea leaves and blends them using traditional techniques and manufacturing methods, and his own tea farm, where he can work on producing delicious Japanese tea, starting from the soil preparation and growing seedlings. This enables him to work as a tea master not only to appraise and blend Japanese teas, but also to “create” Japanese teas from scratch. This is the strength of Houkodo and the reason why its history and traditions have been preserved and loved to this day.

Changing Times and Unchanging Ideas

In recent years, as the times have changed, values regarding “food” have diversified, and various forms of Japanese food culture have emerged. However, for 190 years, Houkodo has maintained the unchanging philosophy of ” tea with a heart of tea. This is a phrase that expresses the idea of ” conveying sincerity by having the customer enjoy the tea we have carefully cultivated ” and is an attitude that Houkodo has cherished since its founding.

In these days, it is difficult to find “sincerity to the other person. Despite such circumstances, Houkodo, which continues to produce the best tea with unchanged passion and preserve Japanese history and traditions, will surely continue to be a tea specialty store loved by Japanese people for a long time to come.

I am in pursuit of “what is good tea. He visits tea fields all over Japan and is involved in soil preparation, fertilizer selection, cultivation, and harvest timing, and conducts repeated research to realize the ideal tea.

The post What is “delicious tea” made by a long-established Uji tea shop – Mr. Yasuyuki Sugata, Houkodo / Kobe City, Hyogo Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.