Kikuzakari Brewery, located in Kitakami City, Iwate Prefecture, produces many distinctive sake varieties, including its flagship brand, “Taxi Driver.” Takuya Fujimura, the brewery’s owner, took over as the fifth-generation head at the age of 30. While overcoming the hardships of the Great East Japan Earthquake, he steered the brewery toward becoming Iwate Prefecture’s first “all-junmai sake brewery,” using only rice grown in Iwate Prefecture. Each of these choices has shaped the unique character of Kikuzakari Brewery today.

Born as the fifth-generation head of a sake brewery, he became president at the age of 30.

Kitakami City is located in central Iwate Prefecture, where the Kitakami and Waga Rivers converge in a fertile basin dotted with rolling countryside. At the northern tip of the city stands Kikuzakari Sake Brewery Co., Ltd., which was founded in 1894 as Fujimura Sake Brewery. Following the consolidation and restructuring of sake breweries under wartime regulations, the company adopted its current name in 1951. Since then, it has continued to brew sake deeply rooted in the local community under brands such as “Kikuzakari” and “Onikenbai.”

“The heyday was during my grandfather’s time—he was the third-generation owner—and in the 1970s, we were producing approximately 4,000 koku (equivalent to 400,000 one-shō bottles) of sake annually. Since local consumption accounted for over 90 percent of sales, it seems we mainly produced everyday standard sake. My grandfather also served as chairman of the local tourism association, so he created various sake brands inspired by the region, such as ‘Onikenbai’ and ‘Shishi Odori’—traditional performing arts of the area—as well as the local song ‘Kitakami Yakyoku.’ There was also a soy sauce brewery on the same grounds, and with so many people working there, it was a bustling place.”

These are the reflections of Takuya Fujimura, the fifth-generation head of Kikuzakari Sake Brewery. He explains that ever since he was old enough to understand, he had always been aware that he would one day take over this brewery, which has been preserved by the Fujimura family for generations since its founding in the mid-Meiji period. “Until then, I wanted to do what I loved,” he says. After graduating from high school, he left his hometown, attended a vocational school, and worked as a game designer at a game development company in Tokyo. However, he returned home when his father—the fourth-generation head of the brewery—fell ill. Three years later, following his father’s passing, he assumed the position of president of Kikuzakari Sake Brewery. It was February 2003, and he was 30 years old.

“Make a sake that the owner of a yakitori restaurant would like.”

When Mr. Fujimura took over the brewery, the world was in the midst of a boom in authentic shochu. Meanwhile, sake consumption had been on a steady decline since peaking in 1974. Kikuzakari Sake Brewery was also affected by this trend; “By the time I became president, production had fallen to 500 koku,” he recalls. How could he preserve this brewery, which had lost its former vitality? The guiding principle that helped Mr. Fujimura find his way was his grandfather’s advice: “Make sake that the owner of a yakitori restaurant prefers, rather than sake that’s highly rated by judges at tasting competitions.”

“Apparently, that was something my grandfather often told his employees back when he ran the brewery. For him, ‘good sake’ meant the kind of sake that’s enjoyed in bars—what you might call a ‘meal-accompanying sake.’ So I decided to follow in his footsteps while crafting good sake through my own interpretation,” he explains.

To that end, the first step he took was to reevaluate the brewery’s approach to sake production. At the time, Kikuzakari Sake Brewery was also producing “Sanbai Zōjōshu*”—a type of sake diluted with water and brewing alcohol to increase volume—but as soon as Mr. Fujimura assumed the presidency, he discontinued its production and shifted the brewery’s focus to “Junmai-shu,” made exclusively from rice, rice koji, and water.

“I don’t want to compete on price; I want to deliver sake that I personally believe is good.” Driven by this desire, Mr. Fujimura began to think, “I want to create a new brand that reflects my own values and preferences.”

*A brewing method introduced to address postwar rice shortages, with the aim of producing more sake using less rice. Due to the 2006 amendment to the Sake Tax Act, this method is now effectively impossible.

“Remixing” various cultures. Taxi Driver marked his breakthrough.

Mr. Fujimura has an unconventional background as a former game designer and has also been active as an amateur martial artist. He has also long been a fan of niche subcultures such as music, movies, and manga. Given this background, for the first release of the new brand, he commissioned Kei Nemoto—a manga artist he deeply admires—to name the sake, and Takashi Uechi, a graphic designer known for his many pro-wrestling T-shirt designs, to create the label design. In 2004, the junmai daiginjo sake “Denki Bosatsu” was born.

Then, the following year, “Taxi Driver”—the brand that now represents Kikuzakari Sake Brewery—was born.

“It all started when I had a drink with art director Yoshiki Takahashi in Shinjuku, Tokyo. Since Mr. Takahashi had designed the packaging for some of my favorite movies, we hit it off right away. The conversation got lively as we discussed, ‘Let’s come up with a new sake brand,’ and ‘Taxi Driver’ was one of the many ideas that came up. We felt this could actually work, so we decided on the spot to bring it to market, and Mr. Takahashi agreed to design the label.”

When brewing “Taxi Driver,” Mr. Takahashi’s request was for “a sake that tastes good when served hot.”

“Sakes from Kikuzakari Brewery are known as dining sakes characterized by a robust umami and crisp acidity. They’re naturally well-suited for serving hot. So I thought we could create a sake that met his request without needing to make any special adjustments,” says Mr. Fujimura. Reflecting Mr. Fujimura’s own preference for “rich sake with a high alcohol content,” the sake was brewed as “junmai genshu”—pressed and bottled straight from the press without adding water to adjust the flavor. The result is a robust flavor that holds its own against the striking impact of the label design created exclusively by Mr. Takahashi.

Since then, Kikuzakari Sake Brewery has continued to collaborate with various creators, releasing sake with unique names and labels as the “Jacket Buy Series.” This “remix” of sake with different fields—such as music and video games—has also attracted the interest of people who don’t usually drink sake.

Affected by the Great East Japan Earthquake. While renting space in a brewery, they transitioned to a “100% Junmai Brewery.”

Kikuzakari Sake Brewery had been expanding its customer base by focusing on the production of junmai sake while also developing products and promotional campaigns that incorporated elements from other cultural fields. However, the company suffered a major blow from the Great East Japan Earthquake that struck in March 2011. Although Kitakami City is inland and thus escaped tsunami damage, the building was struck directly by a long, intense tremor. Fortunately, both the employees and the sake that had just been brewed were unharmed, but the brewery was left half-destroyed.

“When you factor in the completely destroyed soy sauce warehouse and other structures, the scale of the damage was immense. After receiving estimates from contractors, we realized that whether we repaired the building or demolished and rebuilt it, the costs would be astronomical. As the fifth-generation head of the Fujimura family, I couldn’t let this brewery—which our family had safeguarded for generations—disappear. Even though I felt that way, it wasn’t a sum of money we could easily raise.”

Since part of the brewery was still barely usable, he managed to resume sake production with minimal equipment; however, this was merely a temporary restoration with clear limitations. About three years had passed with no clear outlook for the future when a sake brewery in the neighboring city of Hanamaki decided to go out of business, and they agreed to lend him their brewing facility.

Although it was in a neighboring city, it was only about a five-minute drive from Kikumzakari Sake Brewery, and the water quality for brewing was virtually the same. Mr. Fujimura decided to relocate, planning to conduct brewing at the rented facility while handling shipping operations at the original brewery.

Then, in the spring of 2014, Kikuzakari Sake Brewery began brewing in its new location. At the same time, the company shifted its focus to becoming a “100% Junmai Brewery,” dedicated exclusively to brewing junmai sake.

Made with koji mold and rice from Iwate

Ever since Mr. Fujimura became president, Kikuzakari Sake Brewery had primarily focused on brewing junmai sake. While the brewery did produce a limited amount of “futsūshu” (standard sake) with added distilled alcohol for local consumption, demand for this type of sake in the local market has been declining year by year. Meanwhile, nationwide, the popularity of junmai sake has been rising as consumers increasingly seek authentic products. Particularly after the earthquake, driven by a spirit of support for reconstruction, the junmai genshu sake “Taxi Driver” began selling well in the Kanto and Kansai regions.

Against this backdrop, just as we were reviewing our production system with the goal of “increasing junmai sake production,” the decision was made to relocate the brewery. Mr. Fujimura seized this opportunity to commit fully to producing only junmai sake. “At the time, there were no other breweries in Iwate Prefecture producing exclusively junmai sake, so I thought, ‘Since we’re doing this anyway, let’s be the first in Iwate,’” he recalls.

The rice used as raw material is 100 percent grown in Iwate Prefecture. What’s particularly noteworthy is that the brewery primarily uses “table rice” rather than sake-brewing rice. “We used to use sake-brewing rice and even sourced Yamada Nishiki from other prefectures, but in the end, table rice produced a flavor that better suited my preferences,” says Mr. Fujimura. For example, “Taxi Driver” is made using “Kakehashi,” a table rice variety native to Iwate Prefecture. Although it was once widely cultivated as a prefectural recommended variety, production has plummeted due to the rise of new varieties. However, Mr. Fujimura maintains, “This rice is the very source of ‘Taxi Driver’s’ flavor,” and he continues to safeguard both its quality and quantity through contract farming.

Furthermore, for “koji”—a crucial element that determines the quality of the sake—the brewery uses “Reimei Hiraizumi,” a koji mold strain developed exclusively by Iwate Prefecture. This koji mold produces moderate amounts of glucose—the source of sweetness—and is well-suited for bringing out a sake profile ideal for aging, perfectly aligning with the brewery’s vision for flavor. The junmai sake brewed in this way is released as “unfiltered genshu”—without any dilution or filtration—to deliver its flavor directly to the consumer. This robust, unfiltered character—straight from the press—has become a defining feature of Kikuzakari Shuzo’s identity, captivating sake enthusiasts across the nation.

Shiki Brewing’s new brewery is complete. Back to the place where it all began.

Kikuzakari Sake Brewery’s “brewing in a rented facility” continued for about 10 years.

“We are the only sake brewery remaining in Kitakami City. Although we temporarily relocated to neighboring Hanamaki City, we always wanted to return to our founding location,” said Mr. Fujimura. However, the disaster-damaged brewery had undergone repeated expansions and renovations, resulting in a complex structure that made restoration difficult. Furthermore, in 2021, the roof collapsed due to the Fukushima Offshore Earthquake and heavy snowfall, damaging the boiler used for bottle washing and pasteurization.

Even so, Mr. Fujimura refused to give up on “rebuilding at the founding site.” Utilizing crowdfunding, he constructed a new brewery and an office/warehouse on the company’s headquarters grounds. In the summer of 2024, he resumed sake brewing in Kitakami. “We were able to return here in the milestone year of our 130th anniversary,” Mr. Fujimura said with a smile.

The new brewery is equipped with state-of-the-art facilities, enabling year-round brewing across all four seasons. They also introduced temperature-controlled thermal tanks, making it possible to handle the entire process—from mashing to bottling—within this single facility.

Meanwhile, for the pressing process—which separates the mash (moromi) into sake and sake lees—they adopted the “Sase-style” press. The Sase-style method involves stacking bags of mash inside a vat and applying pressure from above to extract the liquid. Although it involves the labor-intensive steps of bagging and stacking, the slow, gentle pressing—without excessive force—is said to result in a mellow sake with a smooth mouthfeel.

One reason for choosing the Sase method—which is by no means efficient—is that they had been using it for pressing during the 10 years they rented space at another brewery. “The press at the brewery we were renting was a Sase-style model manufactured in the Showa 30s,” says Mr. Fujimura. “It took at least three days, and sometimes as long as a week, to press a single tank of mash.” The fact that pressing takes time means the sake is exposed to air for that duration, accelerating oxidation. While this method is unsuitable for producing fresh, fruity sake, it proved effective for crafting sake with rich umami flavors suited for aging or serving hot. Furthermore, the refined sediment produced by the Sase-style pressing adds depth to the flavor, becoming one of Kikumori’s defining characteristics.

“Our brewery has always been known for sake with a robust flavor, and I believe the Sase-style pressing has further solidified that direction. “The Sase-style press at our brewery is state-of-the-art, so the pressing itself takes about a day. However, we press on the weekend and bottle the sake at the start of the week. By deliberately letting it sit for a few days, we ensure the flavor remains unchanged from before, while at the same time, the physical labor involved in tasks like transferring the sake has been reduced, making the process much more efficient.”

Bringing the unique flavors of this brewery to the rest of Japan and the world

“Now that our new brewery is complete, we’ll finally be able to stabilize our production system,” says Mr. Fujimura with high hopes. While local consumption once accounted for 90 percent of sales, out-of-prefecture sales now make up 70 percent. Sales in Osaka, in particular, account for more than half of the total. “It seems that people in the Kansai region tend to prefer sake with a robust umami flavor and a clean finish,” he explains. In recent years, inquiries from overseas have also increased, and the brewery has secured export deals to the United States, Italy, and New Zealand.

At the same time, he also hopes to expand his customer base in the Kanto region, particularly in Tokyo.

“To achieve that, I believe the key challenge is finding the right match with liquor stores and authorized dealers. I want to find partners who truly understand the direction of our sake-making and can convey that to customers in their own words, rather than just parroting our message. That’s one of my goals for the future,”

says Mr. Fujimura. While exploring new connections with liquor stores in the Kanto region, he is carefully nurturing relationships with stores and fans with whom he already has ties.

Bringing the sake that only this brewery can produce from Iwate to all corners of Japan—and to the world. Having made a fresh start from its “origins” at the founding site, Kikumori’s sake brewing is now heading into its next chapter.

The post Drawing strength from tradition and innovation, they remain committed to producing “100% Junmai Sake.” Takuya Fujimura of Kikuzakari Sake Brewery / Kitakami City, Iwate Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

A single glass of sake can sometimes make the time spent with loved ones even more meaningful. Rihaku Brewery has been sharing these special moments with the world from Shimane. Although it is a long-established brewery with a history spanning over 140 years, its journey has always been marked by a spirit of challenge. The company expanded its sales channels back when overseas expansion was still rare, and in recent years, it has been pushing the boundaries of sake by brewing with flower yeast and developing products tailored to the times, thereby broadening the possibilities of sake. At the core of it all lies a consistent philosophy: “Creating joyful moments through sake.”

Dedicated solely to sake brewing in the land where the “Myth of Sake Brewing in Izumo” has been passed down through the ages

Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture. In this region, where a long-standing culture of sake brewing thrives, the “Izumo Sake Brewing Myth”—which tells of the gods brewing sake—has been passed down through the generations. In this land, we have continued to brew rich, full-bodied sake deeply rooted in the local terroir, using high-quality water and rice primarily grown in Shimane Prefecture. Today, the brewery uses sake-brewing rice for all of its in-house brands, focusing on the quality of the rice used in the brewing process.

Moving forward with the changing times

The company was founded in 1882. During the Meiji era—when feudal society came to an end and Japan began adopting Western culture—Takujiro Tanaka began brewing sake under the trade name “Tanaka Honten.” At that time, unlike today’s brand-based approach, it was a small-scale business where local residents would bring their own drinking vessels to purchase sake. As the Taisho era gave way to the Showa era, the distribution of sake began to be standardized nationwide, and breweries started promoting their own unique brands. It was at this time that Tanaka Honten adopted the brand name “Rihaku.” The name was chosen by Reijirō Wakatsuki, a native of Matsue City who later served as Prime Minister of Japan. An avid fan of Tanaka Honten’s sake, Wakatsuki named it “Rihaku”—after the Tang Dynasty poet from China—with the hope that it would “be a sake cherished across the ages.”

After the war, against the backdrop of rising demand for sake, the company grew primarily by supplying unblended sake to major manufacturers in bulk (“oke-uri”), and in 1950, it was incorporated as “Tanaka Shuzo.” In the 1970s, at a time when mass production was still the norm, Tanaka Shuzo shifted its focus from “quantity to quality.” The company began full-scale development of its own brand, “Rihaku,” using only rice suitable for sake brewing and pursuing the ultimate in flavor. Through repeated trial and error, they improved quality, eventually earning recognition—including numerous awards—and laid the foundation that continues to this day.

The company then began exporting in the 1980s. Although exporting sake was still rare at the time, the previous head of the family aimed to spread sake culture overseas. Today, 40% of its production is exported to 14 countries, primarily the United States. As the popularity of its flagship product, “Rihaku,” grew, the company changed its name in 1993 from “Tanaka Shuzo”—which bore the representative’s surname—to “Rihaku Shuzo.”

With a pioneering spirit, “passing on sake to the next generation”

The current fifth-generation head of Rihaku Brewery is Yuichiro Tanaka, who studied brewing science at Tokyo University of Agriculture and took over the family business after apprenticing at a specialty shop for local sake in Tokyo.

Mr. Tanaka joined the family business in 2003. At that time, the sake industry was undergoing a major turning point. In addition to market shifts caused by the shochu boom, the artisans who had long supported sake brewing were rapidly aging. Rihaku Sake Brewery was no exception. Sensing that “if things continued this way, we would no longer be able to brew sake,” Mr. Tanaka decided to overhaul the company’s production system, which had been centered around the head brewer. He took the bold step of creating a system that would ensure stable sake production.

Introducing modern equipment to pass on the skills of the “Izumo Toji” to future generations

The quality of Rihaku Sake Brewery is underpinned by the expertise of the Izumo master brewers. Through meticulous koji production and a method of slow fermentation at low temperatures, they have consistently produced sake with high acidity and a robust flavor. However, this technique relied heavily on experience and intuition. To address this, Mr. Tanaka pushed forward with digitizing the production process and investing in equipment, enabling the management of fermentation conditions—such as status, temperature, and duration—through numerical data. He refined the process into a reproducible system and established it as the “Rihaku Brewery Method.”

At the same time, not everything is left to machines. For critical processes such as koji production, the brewery places great importance on manual labor, shifting from a approach where “humans control the koji” to one where “humans prepare an environment conducive to the koji’s activity.” By closely monitoring temperature and humidity and making adjustments based on the koji’s condition, they bring out its full potential. Advances in technology and equipment have made the kind of meticulous management that was once difficult possible, leading to stable quality and further improvement.

In recent years, climate change has made the quality of rice more variable. As a result, they strive to make improvements every year while monitoring its condition. “There’s no end to the adjustments,” he says. “To deliver good sake, we will continue to conduct repeated analyses,” showing that he is not content with the status quo.

Creating a New Identity Using Flower Yeast

Until Mr. Tanaka returned to the brewery, they had been producing classic-style sake by combining sake rice varieties such as “Gohyakumangoku” and “Yamada Nishiki” with “No. 9 yeast,” which creates a crisp, clean flavor. This method has long been used to consistently produce high-quality sake thanks to the expertise of the Izumo master brewers.

At the same time, Mr. Tanaka took on the challenge of creating a new combination using the “Omachi” sake rice variety and “flower yeast.” “Flower yeast” refers to sake yeast that has been successfully isolated and cultured from flowers found in nature. While the character of the sake varies depending on the type of flower used, it is said to be particularly effective at producing a floral ginjo aroma and fruity flavors, making it a popular choice for crafting distinctive sakes. Drawing on his experience researching flower yeast during his university days, he set out to create sake in a style distinct from traditional methods.

“I wanted to create a new flavor unique to ‘Rihaku Sake Brewery’—one that differs from the techniques of the Izumo master brewers,” he explained. With this vision in mind, he selected his ingredients to achieve a balance of a robust body with a refreshing aroma and light acidity. The elegant flavor has been well-received by women and those new to sake.

Such initiatives are part of the challenge to preserve tradition. It is precisely this attitude—taking a step forward without fear of change—that serves as the driving force to carry sake culture into the next era.

Providing a pleasant experience through sake

Japan’s drinking culture began as a sacred “ritual connecting the gods and people” rooted in Shinto rituals, and has evolved uniquely as a setting for enjoying the seasonal beauty of nature—flowers, birds, the wind, and the moon—as well as for social interaction. Within this culture, sake has always been a part of daily life, not merely as a luxury item, but as a force that connects people.

“What we’re making isn’t just sake—it’s an ‘oasis’ that enriches people’s time,” says Mr. Tanaka. His philosophy is that sake should not take center stage, but rather serve as an element that enhances conversation and meals.

Sake is, after all, merely a “catalyst.” Its presence sparks conversation and makes meals more enjoyable. He wants to support such moments. To that end, he prioritizes a flavor profile that balances well with food. He aims to create sake that never grows tiresome and naturally invites you to take another sip.

Our Commitment to Preserving Sake Culture Accurately

At Rihaku Sake Brewery, guided by the philosophy of “promoting sake culture and passing it on correctly to future generations,” we use sake-brewing rice in all of our sake. Sake-brewing rice refers to rice that has been selectively bred to be suitable for brewing Japanese sake. Although it is more expensive, it produces fewer off-flavors and makes it easier to achieve a clean taste that pairs well with meals.

Additionally, the brewery uses water from one local well and three wells on its premises; since all are part of the same water system, they are all utilized in the brewing process. The soft mouthfeel and clean finish make the sake easy to drink and support its appeal as a meal-accompanying sake.

Bringing richness to daily life with a tireless spirit of challenge

To preserve tradition,Rihaku Sake Brewery’s quest for innovation never stops.

In 2024, the company began selling its sake in pouches. It is highly unusual for a regional sake brewery to handle everything from development to manufacturing in-house, making this a groundbreaking approach for the industry. “Because they’re lightweight and easy to carry, our pouches are being chosen for new occasions such as outdoor activities and watching sports. They’re also increasingly popular as souvenirs among international visitors.” The company says it aims to begin selling unpasteurized sake in pouches in the future.

At the heart of these efforts is the desire for people to share pleasant moments together, transcending national and cultural boundaries. Rihaku Sake Brewery will continue to deliver the richness that each cup of sake brings to the world.

The post Preserving tradition and sharing the charm of sake with the world: Yuichiro Tanaka, 5th-generation head of “Rihaku Sake Brewery” first appeared on NIHONMONO.

“Sharaku,” which has gained popularity among local sake enthusiasts nationwide for its high quality, and “Aizu Miyaizumi,” which has been beloved locally since the brewery’s founding. “Miyaizumi Meijo” continues to pursue its ideal of sake brewing through these two brands. Amid abundant water sources and a climate ideal for sake brewing, fourth-generation brewery owner Yoshihiro (the older brother, pictured right) and Managing Director Yamato (the younger brother, pictured left) take on the challenge with a passionate desire to “create even better sake.” While meticulously monitoring the ever-changing temperature, humidity, and aromas within the brewery to refine the quality of their sake, the team—led by the Miyamori brothers—works as one to craft their sake.

A sake brewery in Aizu, a region renowned for its sake, that has carried on a 400-year history

Aizu-Wakamatsu City is one of the leading sake-producing regions in the Tohoku region. The Aizu Basin, surrounded on all sides by mountains, experiences significant seasonal temperature fluctuations. With cold winters that keep bacteria at bay, it is blessed with a climate and environment ideally suited for sake brewing. Furthermore, having flourished as a castle town, the area has a long history dating back to the Edo period, when numerous sake breweries were established and competed to refine their brewing techniques.

Located near the famous Tsuruga Castle, the charming brewery “Miyaizumi Meijo” was founded in 1955 (Showa 30). While there are many breweries with hundreds of years of history, this one might seem relatively new—but that is not the case. Miyaizumi Meijo is a brewery that branched off from “Hanaharu Shuzo,” one of the oldest and most prestigious breweries in Aizu-Wakamatsu, founded in 1718 (Kyōhō 3). Although its history as a company is short, it carries on a 400-year tradition of sake brewing.

The exterior, which blends seamlessly into the atmospheric streetscape of this castle town, is designated as a historic landmark, and the brewery grounds themselves are filled with charming spaces. Although it was originally a small facility, it has taken on its current form through a series of expansions. The varying heights of the roofs and the different materials used for the walls add to its unique character, giving the building a rich variety of expressions.

As the fourth-generation head, he is taking on the challenge of revitalizing the brewery and pioneering new brewing methods

The older brother, Yoshihiro, and the younger brother, Yamato, have an unusual background: after graduating from college, they both worked as systems engineers (SEs). In 2002, Yoshihiro quit his job as an SE and returned to Fukushima to turn around the family business, Miyaizumi Meijo. He was 26 years old at the time.

“We completely reevaluated our sake-making methods and production environment from scratch,” Yoshihiro recalls. “Although we had won gold medals several times at the National New Sake Competition, the techniques we’d honed for our competition entries weren’t being applied to our other sakes at all. So I became increasingly determined to apply the knowledge gained from making those competition sakes to our regular retail products and revitalize our lineup.”

At the time, the president was responsible for management, while the head brewer handled production. However, Yoshihiro believed that “if the business leader were also involved in the brewing process, we could get closer to our ideal flavor.” He traveled around the country visiting breweries he believed produced high-quality sake, incorporating their excellent techniques as he pursued a new flavor profile.

The bond between brothers has brought a breath of fresh air to the sake brewery

After working as a systems engineer, Yamato became a secretary to a member of the Diet. One day, his older brother Yoshihiro—who had already returned to their family home—asked him, “Yamato, why don’t we make sake together?” “I’d always wanted to work with my brother someday, so I didn’t hesitate for a moment,” Yamato says with a beaming smile.

“I wanted to produce sake of a consistently high standard, and as the number of stone vats was gradually increasing, I felt I needed my younger brother’s help to improve the quality of our local brand, ‘Aizu Miyaizumi,’” says Yoshihiro. From that point on, a new chapter in sake brewing centered around the brothers began.

In recent years, Yoshihiro has primarily been in charge of brewing “Sharaku,” while Yamato has focused on “Aizu Miyaizumi,” and together they continue to pursue their ideals through these two brands.

Reviving “Sharaku,” Which Once Nearly Disappeared, to Reform the Warehouse

Originally, the “Sharaku” brand belonged to Higashiyama Shuzo, a brewery that traced its roots back to Miyamori Bunjiro Shoten—the original main branch of the Miyamori Shuzo family. Although it was popular among the people of Aizu, Higashiyama Shuzo regrettably went out of business in 2009. Consequently, Miyaizumi Meijo, which shares the same origins, took over the “Sharaku” brand.

“Although we took over the ‘Sharaku’ brand, I wanted to create a sake that would be recognized nationwide, so I poured the sake-making expertise I had cultivated over the years into crafting a new sake,” says Yoshihiro. As a result, “Sharaku”—whose history had once nearly come to an end—has grown into a sake that enjoys nationwide popularity. In 2014, at the “SAKE COMPETITION”—an event that determines Japan’s most delicious commercially available sake—it won first place in both the Junmai and Junmai Ginjo categories, proving its exceptional quality to the nation. Since then, the brewery has continued to strive for even higher quality, and “Sharaku” has become such a renowned sake that it is now a regular gold medal winner at various competitions.

“Aizu Miyaizumi”: Continuing to Take on Technical Challenges

“Aizu Miyaizumi” primarily ships its products within Fukushima Prefecture. Considered a premium sake on par with “Sharaku” in terms of flavor and quality, it achieved remarkable success in 2018 by winning first place nationwide in the Junmai category at the “SAKE COMPETITION” and earning numerous awards at international sake competitions, thereby gaining national attention. Driven by a single-minded desire to “cherish the brand that has been safeguarded by generations of brewers,” the brewery has consistently raised the bar for brewing quality.

“Aizu Miyaizumi will continue to pursue technical challenges as we strive to create the ideal sake,” says Mr. Yamato. The brewery is not content merely to “preserve tradition”; its pursuit of new brewing innovations knows no bounds. Using sake-brewing rice varieties developed by Fukushima Prefecture—such as “Yume no Ka” and “Fuku no Ka”—as well as “Wataribune No. 2,” “Yamada Ho,” “Yamasake No. 4,” and “Oyama Nishiki,” the brewery has produced a diverse range of sakes. “There are still many brewing styles and techniques I’d like to try in the future,” Mr. Yamato says with a delighted smile.

Uncompromising Sake Brewing with High-Quality Water and Rice

The brewery is highly regarded not only for the quality of its sake but also for its strict hygiene standards. Beautifully polished wooden corridors, imposing tanks, and koji quietly maturing over time. While many breweries store their sake at room temperature or in tanks, Miyasumi Meijo strictly adheres to immediate bottling after pressing and refrigerated storage of the entire batch in bottles to prevent oxidation from air exposure and deterioration at room temperature.

“Starting with the process of drawing groundwater to create the brewing water used throughout every stage of sake production—from managing raw materials and the moromi (fermenting mash), to pressing (the process of separating the finished moromi into sake and lees), storage, and shipping—we make no compromises in the work and environment necessary to improve the quality of our sake,” says Mr. Yamato.

Aiming for High-Quality Sake Through Data Management and Accumulation

Inside the brewery, there is a space that exudes a unique atmosphere, much like a laboratory. In the “Analysis Room,” lined with various analytical instruments, there were analyzers capable of measuring data—such as alcohol content, acidity, and Sake Meter Value (sweetness)—necessary for assessing the fermentation progress of the mash before it becomes raw sake.

Both Mr. Yoshihiro and Mr. Yamato majored in science in college, so they are meticulous about collecting data. This is to ensure that they can verify their findings at any time. Believing that “good sake can only be achieved through accumulated experience,” they manage all data related to their research aimed at further advancing sake brewing, as well as data on every batch of sake they actually produce. Through this approach, Miyaizumi Meijo pursues the production of delicious, high-quality sake at the highest possible standards.

With our sights set on the world, we’ll keep taking on new challenges while having fun.

“Our brewery has now reached the ideal scale,” says Yoshihiro with a smile. “We used to be a small brewery that didn’t even produce enough to fill 10 tanks, but now we’re making 150 tanks’ worth. A brewery of about 2,000 koku is ideal because we can keep a close eye on everything.” He goes on to share his new dream: “Going forward, we want to deliver sake that people around the world—not just in Japan—will find delicious, so we’re also considering venturing into exports. I hope our sake will be discovered by people all over the world.”

“Working alongside my brother is incredibly fulfilling,” says Yamato, his eyes sparkling. “I look forward to exploring the exciting world that lies ahead together with my brother, the president.” He reaffirms his resolve: “As the population continues to decline and the number of drinkers shrinks, I believe it’s crucial to reach out to the world. I want to keep taking on new challenges so that people will say, ‘Miyaizumi is doing something fascinating again.’”

As long as these positive challenges continue, the future of Miyaizumi Meijo looks set to become even more exciting. Just imagining what kind of sake they’ll create makes my heart race.

The post Preserving tradition while continuing to take on new challenges. Yoshihiro and Yamato Miyamori of “Miyaizumi Meijo,” who captivate customers with two brands that linger in the heart and memory / Aizuwakamatsu City, Fukushima Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Pure clarity and a first taste of deliciousness. The craft saké brewed by haccoba-Craft Sake Brewery in Minamisoma, Fukushima Prefecture, instantly captivates you. The representative of the brewery, Taisuke Sato, lightly enjoys the experimental and free brewing of sake in the area he has moved to. The young brewer has a big dream to go global with craft saké and a passion for the region’s reconstruction after the Great East Japan Earthquake.

Sake brewing from scratch in Minamisoma, where reconstruction efforts are underway

haccoba-Craft Sake Brewery” (haccoba) was established in February 2021 under the concept of “a sake brewery that grows together. The brewery, which was renovated from a 50-year-old house, is located in Odakaku, Minamisoma City, Fukushima Prefecture, an area where all residents were temporarily evacuated due to the nuclear power plant accident after the Great East Japan Earthquake in 2011.

In fact, my birthday is March 11. I was living in Saitama at the time of the disaster, and every year on my birthday, I feel frustrated that I have done nothing to help the affected areas, and I wanted to someday engage in activities that would help the recovery of the region,” he says.

Enthralled by the Beauty of Fermentation Culture, Entered the Sake Brewing Business

After getting hooked on sake as a university student, Mr. Sato worked for an IT company after graduation, and later found a “sake start-up” at a company he changed jobs at. There, he learned that he, too, could create a new sake brewery, and he set his sights on opening a sake brewery where he could make his living from the sake he loves. The reason for this, he says, “was because I was impressed by the beauty and depth of fermentation culture through my favorite sake.

In opening the business, he was once again impressed by the “world’s best tasting sake” after drinking it at an izakaya. He visited Abe Shuzo (Kashiwazaki City, Niigata Prefecture), the brewer of REGULUS sake, which is known for the Koshino-Oyama and Abe series of sake, and learned sake brewing techniques. After one year of training, he established his own sake brewery at his current location at the age of 27.

Sato was positive about starting from scratch as a local sake brewery, and his encounter with Tomoyuki Wada, the head of Odaka Workers Base, who had been working to create a business in Odaka Ward, Minamisoma City since 2014, also helped accelerate the launch of haccoba. Mr. Wada introduced us to this house when we were struggling to find a good property for a sake brewery,” said Mr. Wada.

He met many people who were sincerely involved in the regional development and reconstruction of the areas affected by the nuclear power plant disaster, and the fact that there were many people who supported him was also a deciding factor in his decision to choose this location. The support for starting a business from the local government also brought a sense of security. In addition, his wife, Mizuki, is from Iwaki City, Fukushima Prefecture, which made him feel more familiar with the area.

Today, in Minamisoma’s Odaka Ward, in addition to residents who have lived there for a long time, young entrepreneurs from all over the country have come to start their own businesses, and new business and community development efforts are underway.

Craft saké,” in which the maker’s individuality shines through, is also appealing in its range.

Under the Sake Tax Law, the craft saké produced by haccoba is classified as “other brewed sake” rather than “sake,” and thus cannot be called “sake. In addition, currently, sake production licenses are rarely issued to new brewers, so the younger generation of sake brewers is finding a way to make their dreams come true in the craft saké business. Mr. Sato is one of them.

However, the Sake Tax Law will be revised in 2020, and new sake production licenses will be issued only for brewing sake to be sold for export, not for domestic distribution in Japan. We expect that these trends will lead to changes in laws and regulations in the future,” he said.

Craft Sake, a New Genre of Sake Growing in Popularity

Sake (sake) is made from strained “moromi,” a fermented mixture of rice, rice malt, and water, and there are limits to what other ingredients can be used, such as brewer’s alcohol and sugar. The process of making sake is different from that of sake.

According to the Craft Sake Brewery Association, “craft saké” is a new genre of rice-based sake that is based on sake (seishu) production technology and incorporates processes that cannot legally be employed in conventional sake. The number of sake breweries producing craft saké has been increasing in recent years, and the quality of the sake has improved dramatically, steadily expanding its popularity and power.

The strength of craft saké is the freedom to take on new challenges. Our brewery focuses on direct sales, so we can be adventurous with sake that would normally be considered difficult to sell, and we can make it fruity, dry, or smoky depending on the secondary ingredients we add, such as herbs, hops, and fruit.

A Modern Take on Folk Sake Making

There was once a time in Japan when each household enjoyed “dobrok” (the original form of sake) made from a variety of ingredients. However, since sake brewing became licensed in the Meiji era (1868-1912), it has become difficult to freely make sake. One of the purposes of haccoba’s sake brewing was to express such a folkloric way of sake making in a modern way.

One of the books that Sato loves to read and cherishes as a reference for his recipes is “The Do Brokk Treasured Book of Countries. I was intrigued by the unique and free ways of making it, such as using calahanasaw, which grows in the mountains of Tohoku, and using fruits such as millet, Japanese millet, and mountain grapes, in addition to rice,” he says. The idea of starting a sake brewery in a private home was also an extension of the home brewing process, he says.

A Small Brewery Enjoying Evolution and Change

Located in Odaka-ku, Minamisoma, is a small, 40-square-meter glass-fronted brewery, an adjoining pub (open Friday, Saturday, and Sunday by reservation only), and a store with a wide variety of products. The brewery has three 300L thermal tanks, one for brewing and one for storage, from preparation to completion.

Due to the steady increase in orders for new products since its establishment, the company is building a brewery in the neighboring town of Namie in 2023 and making sake at two locations. The standard time from preparation to completion is about one month. As soon as the tanks are empty, they begin the next round of brewing, releasing new products and collaborative products as they go along.

This year, we are trying our hand at old sake for the first time,” says Sato, smiling happily, “by keeping a close eye on the fermentation process and letting the sake mature. Always remembering to evolve and change, he takes on the challenge of sake brewing.

Passing on the baton from the producers to create safe sake with organic rice

The rice used as a raw material is one of the specialties of the company. The rice used includes “Omachi” from Nemoto Organic Farm in Minamisoma City, “Amanotsubu” from Toyoda Farm, and “Sasashigure” from Tsuchiya Farm in Inawashiro Town, all of which are contract farmers.

Beautiful ears of rice were waving in the wind in the rice paddies of Nemoto Organic Farm in Odaka-ku, Minamisoma City. Koichi Nemoto, the owner of the farm, is currently working on organic farming with his son, Gomi.

Nemoto’s rice is so delicious that I feel it naturally makes sake taste good as well,” he said. I want to pass on the baton by expressing the precious rice that is grown organically and deliciously to the maximum extent possible in the form of sake without wasting it,” says Sato.

Koichi says calmly, “It’s been 70 years since I started growing rice, but every year I treat it as if I were a first grader. Mr. Sato moved to the area and started a sake brewery, which uses the rice we grow, and also employs young local people, which helps to revitalize the community. As a sake brewery rooted in the community, haccoba is already happily connected to a multicultural and multigenerational community.

Beautiful Sake Brewed with Originality Enriches and Adds Color to Everyday Life

Starting with “Hananuta Hops,” a standard sake since its establishment, haccoba has released a succession of unique flavors and collaborative products such as “kasu [sansho lemonade],” “haccoba coffee shop,” and “Shokolashu,” which have been attracting attention.

Most of the products are 500 ml in size. The unique and cute labels have many fans and are also appreciated as gifts. The alcohol setting is set at 10-13℃ because they want even wine lovers to enjoy their wines casually. We base our wines on taste and quantity so that they can be enjoyed with meals. He often collaborates with people from other industries, sharing ideas and creating recipe designs, ultimately aiming to create an enjoyable experience through alcohol.

A taste with depth combined with native plants and trees of Fukushima

haccoba has steadily grown into a sake brewery whose name is always mentioned when “craft saké” or “botanical sake” is mentioned. haccoba’s deep flavor, which combines native plants and trees of Fukushima, is attracting attention both in Japan and abroad.

The standard sake “Hananuta Hops” is a bottle that combines the refreshing citrus aroma and clear sweetness of rice by crossing “hanamoto,” a fantastic production method handed down in Tohoku, and “dry hops,” a beer technique that extracts a gorgeous aroma. In addition to aroma hops, the brewery is particular about the use of calahanaso, a type of vine grass also known as oriental hops. The hops are boiled from a dried state, and the boiled juice is added to the brewing water to make the malt. The hops are also soaked in the tank during the latter stages of fermentation, leaving a strong aroma in the finished product. The style is a unique flavor that has been perfected by combining craft beer production methods with an awareness of reproducing the “Hana-Hashiro” style.

In 2024, the company will introduce a new series of standard sake called “zairai (indigenous). Brewed with a variety of native ingredients, the sake is made with local herbs encountered with mountain owners in the mountains of Fukushima Prefecture. For example, kaya leaves, cedar bokkuri, aburachan branches, and mugwort flowers are fermented together with rice. The finished product has a gentle aroma, a good balance of coolness and astringency, and a pleasant lingering taste.

More than 6 to 10 varieties are always available at haccoba’s store and online store, and can also be purchased and enjoyed at stores in Tokyo.

From Fukushima to the world. Challenge to open a brewery in Belgium

The next goal of haccoba, which expresses craft saké through free brewing, is to expand into Belgium. We have been working on a plan to establish a brewery in Belgium since the very beginning. Belgium is a region where each region has its own recipe for beer, and they have built a culture similar to the Japanese dobrok, so I would like to take on the challenge of creating a sake that is a fusion of our drinks,” he says enthusiastically.

With a free spirit that is reminiscent of the folkloric dobrok of the past, haccoba is aiming for the world, and we can’t wait to see what kind of delicious sake they will produce.

The post From Fukushima to the world. Taisuke Sato of “haccoba,” a company that delivers surprise and excitement with its freely conceived “craft salmon” / Minamisoma City, Fukushima Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Take-no-i Shuzo, with a history of over 160 years, created a new brand, Seiko, in 2007. This sake is brewed with the flower yeast and rice that impressed the brewer during his apprenticeship, as well as Yatsugatake subterranean water drawn from a hand-dug well, from which the company’s name is derived. The toji is proud to pass on his unwavering sake brewing skills to future generations.

A long-established sake brewery that has been in business for over 150 years

There is a long-established sake brewery in Hokuto City, Yamanashi Prefecture, that has been brewing sake since the end of the Edo period (Keio era) more than 160 years ago. The name “Take-no-i Sake Brewery” is derived from the character “Take” of Buzaemon Shimizu, the founder of the brewery, and “I” of a 10-meter hand-dug well fed by subterranean water from the Yatsugatake Mountains. It was 18 years ago (2007) that a new brand called “Seiko” was born at the family-run brewery, which had been producing the “Take-no-i” brand for generations. It has a refreshing and easy-to-drink taste. It is recommended to drink it chilled. The brand’s senior managing director and chief brewer, Koichiro Shimizu, is the driving force behind the Seikou brand.

The New “Seikou” Brand

Today, Take-no-i Sake Brewery is making its own unique sake while responding to the needs of the market by rebranding and trying out the latest brewing methods. However, until 18 years ago, when Mr. Shimizu returned to Hokuto City after completing his training, he was making low-priced sake, unlike today. At that time, beer and wine were on the rise, and the demand for sake was gradually decreasing with the times. So we started brewing a new type of sake to differentiate ourselves from the competition. The name of the new brand, “Seikou,” was chosen to symbolize the image of clear, clean water and the desire for the sake industry to “sparkle” in the world. The name “Seikou” was chosen to reflect the image of clear, clean water and the desire for the sake industry to “sparkle” in the world.

Tsurubara Yeast and Omachi, both of which impressed him during his apprenticeship

Yeast is an essential part of sake brewing. Yeast is a small microorganism, invisible to the naked eye, that is responsible for the alcoholic fermentation process, converting the sugar in the rice used to make sake into alcohol and carbon dioxide. Yeast is usually isolated from the sake’s unrefined sake, but Take-no-i Sake Brewery uses “hana-kobo” (flower yeast), which is isolated from flowers that bloom in the natural world. Mr. Shimizu originally studied floral yeast while a student at Tokyo University of Agriculture. He says that his experience in brewing sake with various types of flower yeast at the Raifuku Sake Brewery in Ibaraki Prefecture, where he trained after graduation, was the starting point for his current style.

He says, “It was the Tsurubara yeast that I felt was most suited for the sake I wanted to make. Tsurubara yeast is a yeast that has been successfully isolated from the vine by the Sake Brewing Laboratory of the Tokyo University of Agriculture’s Department of Brewing and Fermentation. Mr. Shimizu was impressed by the combination of Tsurubara yeast and Omachi when he was in training. He says, “Sake made with Omachi and Tsurubara yeast is unique in Japan. I think it has a taste that can only be produced here. These words reveal his unwavering confidence. When Mr. Shimizu took over as toji (master brewer), he focused on “Junmai Ginjo Omachi,” which uses Omachi sake rice produced in Okayama Prefecture, as the core product of the brand. Currently, the Seikou brand is differentiating itself by brewing with Tsurubara yeast and offering a variety of products using different varieties of sake rice.

The Growing Appeal of Seikou

When the Seikou brand was released, it was very well received by buyers for its innovative taste. On the other hand, he realized that flower yeast is still not generally recognized. He says, “I think there are many people who don’t know what yeast is in the first place,” and he doesn’t put much emphasis on promoting the distinctive flower yeast as the main ingredient.

We place importance on having people experience the taste by drinking it. I think that if people feel that this is what flower yeast is after drinking it, then the goodness of the yeast will gradually spread.

An unexpected gift from Yatsugatake

The quality of the water is very important in creating a clean, refreshing taste. Mr. Shimizu says that he places great importance on water, and that all of his sake is brewed with water from the Yatsugatake Mountains. Hokuto City, where the brewery is located, is rich in Yatsugatake subterranean water, which is pumped from a 10-meter hand-dug well that gives the brewery its name. The water is classified as soft, medium soft, medium hard, or hard depending on the concentration of calcium and magnesium in the underground water. In Japan, where the land is narrow and the slopes are steep and the water flows out to the sea quickly, the calcium and magnesium in the ground are absorbed in a short time, so the water is often soft with a low concentration. However, the subterranean water here in Yatsugatake is influenced by the complex geological strata, so it is not soft water, but medium-hard water. Tsurubara yeast has a relatively weak fermentation power, but the hardness of the water helps it, like a “source of energy,”” says Shimizu. He recalls how he felt when he first started brewing sake in this area, saying, “I was very happy that the ingredients I wanted to use and the characteristics of the region happened to match, and I was able to create the flavor I was aiming for. The land of Yatsugatake responded in an unexpected way to the craftsman’s repeated research to create delicious sake.

Unchanging, unwavering sake brewing

Mr. Shimizu’s commitment is not to change the taste of the brand. He is committed to “never changing the taste of the brand,” which means “never blurring. After many years of sake brewing, the quality of the rice and environmental factors of the year can cause the taste of the sake to gradually deviate from the ideal. The difficult point is how to keep it within the framework of “Take-no-i” and “Seikou”. In order to maintain a consistent flavor, he says, the “strong points” of the ingredients, such as the aroma, are sometimes suppressed. Why does he insist on “not changing the flavor of the brand” to such an extent? The reason is the “customers” who look forward to drinking his sake.

He says, “There are many sake brands with the same name that have completely different tastes, and if you look around the world, there are many sake brands that have changed in taste. Of course, different sake breweries have different ideas, but I believe that the first taste is the one that leaves the biggest impression on the drinker. So I don’t want to betray that impression.

Preserving the Taste for Future Generations

In 2017, there was a new change in the Take-no-i brand, which has been well-loved for many years. In addition to the existing product lineup, new “Tokutei Meisho-shu” (special name sake) such as “Junmai Ginjo” and “Tokubetsu Honjozo,” which can only be named after sake rice that meets strict conditions such as the rice polishing ratio and ingredients used, have been added to the lineup. Despite these changes, however, the company continues to make locally-oriented sake, such as using Hitogokochi, a sake rice grown in Hokuto City, Yamanashi Prefecture. Shimizu’s steadfast sake brewing style is still alive and well, not only in the “Seikou” brand, but also in the “Take-no-i” brand, where the taste has remained unchanged.

As for the future outlook, Shimizu is determined to improve the current products to increase public recognition, but he has no plans to change the flavor of the brand. The refreshing and easy-to-drink taste of Qinghuang will surely continue to be accepted in the future. I believe it will be loved for a long time and remain as a sake. Mr. Shimizu’s words are imbued with a sense of responsibility to the customers who look forward to his sake and a solid confidence in the sake he is brewing. With the trust and experience he has built up, the unchanging taste of Seikou will be passed on to future generations.

The post Take-no-i Sake Brewery” brews sake with a consistent taste using flower yeast and Yatsugatake subterranean water / Hokuto City, Yamanashi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Wakami Shuzo was founded in 1922 in Okawa City, Fukuoka Prefecture, located downstream of the Chikugo River. Named with the hope of “creating young waves” like the Chikugo River, the largest river in Kyushu, the brewery has been pioneering the deliciousness of sake in its own unique way.

Founded in the Chikugo River basin, a region famous for sake brewing

The Chikugo River, the largest river in Kyushu, flows majestically in front of the sake brewery. The Chikugo River basin, where the brewery is located, is blessed with abundant underground water sourced from Mount Aso, and the vast Chikushino Plain, which nurtures high-quality rice, stretches out. As one of Japan’s leading sake-producing regions, it developed significantly, with over 80 sake breweries in existence by the mid-Meiji period. At the same time, “Wakamiya Shuzo,” the main branch of “Imamura Honke Shuzo,” was also founded.

The origins of “Wakamiya Shuzo” date back to 1922 (Taisho 11). Three brothers from “Imamura Honke Shuzo,” which was founded in 1895 (Meiji 28), split off to start their own businesses, and one of them began sake brewing. Today, all other breweries have closed, and Wakamiya Shuzo, the sole remaining brewery, carries on the sake-making tradition of the Imamura family. Currently, the brewery is led by the fourth-generation head, Imamura Kaichiro, his sister and production manager, Imamura Yuka, and the ninth-generation master brewer, Shoji Takahiro, who are dedicated to sake production.

Shortly after production began with these three at the helm, in the 2010 brewing year (Heisei 22), the quality design of the existing “Wakami” brand was completely revamped. The brand was relaunched as a limited-release product, establishing the current structure.

The concept is “the surging wave of flavor and the lingering aftertaste.”

Amid the fierce competition among numerous sake breweries in the Chikugo River basin, Wakami Sake Brewery stands out for its exceptional craftsmanship. Since the inception of the Fukuoka Prefecture Sake Appraisal Competition in 2012 (Heisei 24), Wakami’s “Wakami Junmai Daiginjo” has won the top award, the First Governor’s Award, in every edition. This was a promising start that embodied the company’s founding vision of “creating a fresh wave in sake brewing.” At the 11th Fukuoka Prefecture Sake Appraisal Competition held in September 2023, two of the brewery’s brands, “Wakamiwa Junmai Ginjo Yamada Nishiki” and “Wakamiwa Junmai Sake,” won the same award in the Junmai Ginjo and Junmai Sake categories.

Wakami Shuzo’s concept for sake brewing is “the pushing wave of flavor and the pulling wave of aftertaste.” This refers to the taste of its signature brand, Wakami Junmai Ginjo, which bursts into the mouth like a wave of umami, then quickly recedes with a refreshing finish. Many people are captivated by this beautiful, wave-like quality of the sake.

The moisture content of the rice used for sake brewing is also carefully adjusted.

In the 2010 brewing year, the “Wakami” series was completely revamped and reborn as a limited-release product. From the outset, the brewery has been committed to creating “everyday sake that adds color to daily life.” The fourth-generation head brewer, Kaichiro Imamura, says, “Because this is sake that people drink every day, we strive to create a flavor that never gets old, making minor changes every year.”

The rice used as raw material for sake varies in characteristics even if it is the same variety and harvested in the same year. Among these, the difference in moisture content in rice, though only a fraction of 1%, significantly affects the quality of the sake. “We place great importance on reproducibility in producing good sake. Therefore, adjusting the moisture content of the rice is crucial. For example, even if the rice variety and milling degree are the same, the moisture content of the rice varies, so we measure it carefully each time and work with the master brewer to design how to express the differences and individuality between last year’s and this year’s rice in the brewing process.”

The rice used for sake is carefully selected from Fukuoka Prefecture.

The rice used by Wakami Shuzo is almost entirely grown in Fukuoka Prefecture. The three main varieties used are “Yamada Nishiki,” “Yume Ikkan,” and “Jugenmu,” all of which are rice varieties specifically suited for sake production.

“Yamada Nishiki” is carefully selected from the major production area of Itoshima in Fukuoka Prefecture. It is characterized by its elegant aroma and rich flavor, and is said to effectively express the ‘wave of flavor’ that ‘Wakami Sake Brewery’ aims to achieve. ‘Yume Ikken,’ widely used throughout Fukuoka Prefecture, is used in junmai sake with a rice polishing ratio of 50% to 70%. It has a clean taste with a light aftertaste. “Jugenmu” has a low amino acid content and few impurities. While it may seem bland, it brings out the flavor that Wakaba Shuzo aims for in its brewing process. Due to its characteristics, it dissolves well but is prone to breaking, so it is mainly used in pure rice sake polished to 65%.

“Rather than forcing the flavor to meet target values, we prioritize sake brewing that aligns with the rice’s unique characteristics,” says Mr. Imamura. In addition to rigorous moisture management, the brewery conducts regular discussions and tastings led by the head brewer, and solicits feedback from partner retailers to continuously improve the flavor.

The harmony among the brewery staff fosters the creation of fine sake.

Furthermore, we maintain strict hygiene standards by thoroughly cleaning and organizing the brewery every day, and disassembling and cleaning the brewing equipment once a week. Given the warm climate of Fukuoka, temperature control is also crucial for sake production, so we have introduced thermal tanks equipped with cooling devices that allow for precise temperature regulation. While sake quality design is essential, quality control also plays a significant role in determining the taste.

“Wakamiya Shuzo” operates with a small, elite team. We set a longer brewing period relative to our production volume, taking our time to craft our sake. We do not prioritize mass production. ‘By focusing on how to produce high-quality sake with a small team, we naturally arrived at a meticulous brewing process,’ says Mr. Imamura. The consistent, everyday drinkability of their sake is likely supported by such behind-the-scenes efforts. The uniqueness of Wakamiya is born from its small, dedicated team. As embodied by their motto, “Wa-jo Ryoshu” (harmony brews fine sake), the harmony among the sincere sake brewers continues to produce excellent sake.

To remain unchanged, we continue to refine our craft.

One of the things I am currently working on is exploring the compatibility of local Kyushu cuisine with sake. I source gourmet foods and ingredients from various regions and conduct repeated tastings, focusing on standard sakes. I incorporate the ideas and improvements that emerge—such as aroma, acidity, and aftertaste—into the sake-making process. When aiming to create a sake for everyday use, pairing it with locally beloved dishes is perhaps the most important consideration. To create a sake that will remain a staple in people’s lives, it is essential to continuously refine what already exists.

Previously, we changed the rice used in our seasonal limited-edition brand “Wakami Junmai Ginjo TYPE-FY2,” which was well-received, from processed rice to 100% Yamada Nishiki rice for year-round sales. At the time, the brewers temporarily hesitated over the rice change, worried that the refined, clean taste characteristic of “Yamada Nishiki” might leave those who preferred the previous flavor feeling unsatisfied. However, when it was released as planned, it was unexpectedly well-received. “I believe this bottle has become one that people can recognize as the current Wakami, including this evolution,” recalls Imamura.

While maintaining the original concept, the brewery continues to make updates. “To become a presence that enriches daily life, we strive to improve the quality of our everyday sake,” says Imura. This philosophy continues to resonate with those who enjoy their sake. Perhaps the day when these small waves grow into larger ones, creating a new wave in the world of Japanese sake, is not too far off.

The post Aiming to enrich everyday life. Wakami Shuzo / Okawa City, Fukuoka Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

A long-established sake brewery founded at the end of the Edo period

The town of Ryuoh, where the Matsuse Sake Brewery is located, lies between Lake Biwa and the Suzuka Mountains to the east. Surrounded by mountains on all sides, Shiga Prefecture is actually a hidden rice-producing region, and has long been a sake brewery, with more than 30 breweries scattered throughout the prefecture.

The history of the Matsuse Sake Brewery dates back to the Edo period (1603-1868), when it was involved in the sake brewing business from the mid-1600s, but temporarily closed down due to the turmoil at the end of the Edo period. Since then, the company has continued to brew sake that makes the most of nature’s bounty, using carefully selected sake rice andbrewing water pumped up from 120 meters underground.

In recent years, the brewery has won gold medals at the National New Sake Competition for three consecutive years and was selected as the sake for JAL’s international business class flights, and has become a well-known sake brewery in Japan and abroad.

Matsu no Tsukasa, a famous sake representing Shiga Prefecture

Matsunoshi ” is the only brand of sake brewed at Matsuse Shuzo. The brewery produces more than a dozen varieties of sake, varying the rice used, the degree of rice polishing, the amount of water, and the yeast. The name “Matsu no Tsukasa” is a combination of a 200-year-old male pine tree that once stood on the property and “Matsuse,” the founder’s family name. The word “Tsukasa” means “most gallant figure,” and the name expresses the company’s wish that its sake will be like this majestic pine tree. The sake brewed with soft, fluffy water from the Suzuka Mountains and 100% contract-grown sake rice has a freshness and dignity that has made it extremely popular in the Kansai region, especially in Shiga Prefecture.

I want to grow Yamadanishiki produced in Ryuoh.

The distinctive feature of the Matsuse Sake Brewery is its commitment to rice. Hearing that the secret lies in the soil, we asked Tadayuki Matsuse, the sixth-generation owner of the brewery, to show us the rice fields in his hometown of Ryuoh, where the sake rice is grown.

Until about 40 years ago, we used to make sake using Nipponharu rice, but we realized that we could not continue to do so if we wanted to make sake that would continue to be drunk in the future, so we began to use Yamada Nishiki, which at that time was called the “king of sake rice. Yamada-Nishiki, the “king of sake rice” at that time. Yamada-Nishiki was popular and hard to find, so we asked farmers to grow it in our hometown of Ryuoh to see if we could harvest it, and that’s how it all started.

Yamada-Nishiki is mainly grown in Hyogo Prefecture. Yamada-Nishiki is tall and easily falls over and is susceptible to disease and pests, so its cultivation in other areas had not progressed well. Even when they did start growing it, the climate, water, and soil were different. Even if the same growing methods were used, the rice would not be the same as in Hyogo. There were years when the rice ears fell over due to wind and did not produce well, and he realized that it was not a simple matter.

Different soil makes sake taste different.

Even so, through repeated trial and error with local farmers, they realized that even within the same town of Ryuoh, the Yamada Nishiki produced in different rice paddies differed. Rice grown in clay fields that are well watered and fertilized produces a fuller, heavier rice, while rice grown in gravel fields that are well drained produces a firmer, more delicate rice. When sake is brewed using the same brewing method, the full rice produces a dense, voluminous sake, while the delicate rice produces a pleasantly light sake with a floral aroma.

We wanted to somehow increase the amount of Yamada-Nishiki, so we planted it throughout Ryuoh Town, which led to interesting results. Just by having different soils, the taste of sake can change so much. I think it was also good to realize that the taste is different from that of Hyogo Prefecture and unique to this area. It was then that I began to think that it is our job to pay attention to the individuality of the land and convey its value.

Matsuse Sake Brewery currently brews sake in separate tanks for each soil type and sells it under different labels.

Azolla,” a symbol of clean rice paddies

Around 2000, the company began to engage in pesticide-free cultivation. Shiga Prefecture, where most of the rivers in the prefecture flow into Lake Biwa, has a high level of environmental awareness among its residents, and for six consecutive years has boasted the largest area devoted to environmentally friendly agriculture in Japan. Mr. Matsuse himself has a strong desire to protect Lake Biwa, and at the same time, he wanted to express the goodness of the rice paddies as they are, without any extra work, in his sake.

He also wanted to express in his sake the quality of the rice paddies as they are, with no extra work done to them. The azolla blocks light into the water, making it difficult for new weeds to grow.

Sake made with pesticide-free rice has a different power. It has a clear, clean minerality in the aroma. Perhaps it is the awareness that the sake is made from rice grown in clean rice paddies, but above all, I feel that it is sake that should be drunk. Just like rice cultivation, sake cultivation is also an agricultural activity,” smiles Mr. Matsuse.

Sake brewing that makes the most of the rice’s unique characteristics

The man in charge of sake brewing at Matsuse Brewery is Keizo Ishida, who has served as toji, the chief brewer of sake, for the past 10 years.

When I joined the brewery in 2001, the Yamada-Nishiki variety itself had great value, and the best was from Hyogo Prefecture. Then, how about the Yamada-Nishiki from Ryuoh? That was the extent of my understanding of the Yamada-Nishiki of Ryuoh Town. However, as we brewed and compared each farmer, we began to realize that the taste of sake made from sandy soil is different from that of sake made from clay soil. It was a minute difference, but there was an absolute difference that did not change no matter how many times we did it,” he said.

The taste of sake is largely determined by human hands, such as the degree of rice polishing and the brewing process, and Mr. Ishida felt uncomfortable with the idea of changing the taste of sake one after another to suit personal tastes and trends, and then being told, “This is our local sake. He brews rice grown in a natural environment as neutrally as possible. He says he wants the resulting sake to show the differences in the soil, climate, and environment.

The history of the brewery creates the taste of the sake.

Matsuse’s brewery is neither air-conditioned nor equipped with state-of-the-art equipment. The walls and ceilings are coated with persimmon tannin for preservation and protection against insects, and the building is carefully cared for and used. Mr. Ishida calls these warehouses ” antiques ” because of the beautiful luster and candy-colored tints they have acquired. Generally, antiques are objects to be held in one’s hands, such as vessels and furniture, to be enjoyed with the eyes and cherished. It is a rare happiness to be able to work in the midst of antiques and be surrounded by them. The history of the brewery and the wisdom and thoughts of its predecessors may also be important factors in determining the taste of sake.

Returning to the starting point and simplifying

Mr. Ishida says that the best sake is made at this brewery using local rice and water. He wants to keep the sake as neutral as possible so that the character of the land can be expressed. With this in mind, he started the ” kimoto” brewing method, which was mainly practiced in the Edo period (1603-1868) to encourage fermentation by the power of nature.

I believe that if you only aim for recognition in the sake competition, you will only be able to think in an industrial way. I believe that is not good. In my current process, I don’t add yeast or lactic acid, and I don’t do much analysis such as measuring acidity. Even so, it is still possible to make sake. Sake brewing was originally done with pesticide-free rice, using the “ikuhashi-zukuri” method. If we can go back to the techniques and thoughts of the people who faced this process, I believe we can express craft in the true sense of the word.

What kind of sake is Mr. Ishida aiming for? He replied, “It should have a familiar texture. It should be a sake with a familiar taste, one that you can naturally feel when you drink it and think, ‘That’s the usual taste.

Blue” series brewed by soil

The “Blue” series is made from Yamada-Nishiki produced in Ryuoh, and brewed according to different soils. This junmai daiginjo has the flavor and richness typical of rice, and when compared, it is easy to see how the expression of the rice changes depending on the soil in the rice paddies where the rice was grown. If you look at the brand page “Origins of Blue” and learn about the differences in soil and the scenery seen from the rice paddies before drinking, you will feel as if you can even feel the wind blowing in the area and the sound of swaying ears of rice.

The brewery selects a few regions each year, so you can enjoy the combination of each year’s wines and compare them with each other.

AZOLLA” expresses nature

AZOLLA” is an evolution of the “Blue” series and symbolizes Matsunoshi ‘s commitment to rice.

It is made from Yamada-Nishiki grown locally in Ryuoh, without any pesticides or chemical fertilizers during the growing period. The name “Azolla” was chosen to symbolize the pesticide-free nature of the brewery.

The clear, gentle, yet dense flavor is considered ” one of the ideal forms ” of Matsu no Tsukasa.

Grateful for the land, we create a taste that can only be found here.

Matsuse says that he is still searching for what makes Ryuoh unique. I want to use pesticide-free rice grown in Ryuoh to make sake that people around the world will say tastes great. I am happy to continue to do so,” he says, his face calmly and happily gazing into a future he has yet to see.

The post As the Soil Changes, So Does the Taste of Sake: The Challenge of Matsuse Sake Brewery to Express the Characteristics of the Land with Sake / Ryuoh Town, Shiga Prefecture, Japan first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Aoki Sake Brewery, a sake brewery handed down in snow country

 Located in the southern part of Niigata Prefecture, the town of Shiozawa once prospered as a post town along the Mikuni Kaido Road connecting Edo and Echigo (present-day Niigata Prefecture). It is also known as one of the best rice-producing areas in Niigata Prefecture, where high quality rice can be obtained. When you visit this small mountain town, you will be greeted by a beautiful townscape with its quaint “gangi-zukuri” style, which is unique to the snow country. The scenery along the street, called “Shiozawa-juku Makino-dori,” has won the Urban Landscape Grand Prize and is highly regarded as a tourist attraction, attracting many tourists who come to take a look.

In one corner of the area, there is a sake brewery that has continued to make traditional sake since the Edo period. Aoki Shuzo brew s the nationally famous “Tsururei,” the brewery’s top-class “Bokushi,” and “Yukio,” a dry line of sake popular for its unique hairy creature label.

The Minamiuonuma area in southern Niigata Prefecture, where the Aoki Brewery is located, has long been known as one of the heaviest snowfall areas in Japan, with snow accumulating to over 2 meters even in urban areas. The book “Hokuetsu Setsuppu,” written in the mid-Edo period, describes the hardships and difficulties of people living in such a snowy region, their lifestyles, customs, and ways of utilizing the snow, and the wisdom of these people has been applied to the lives of people today. The author, Makiyuki Suzuki, is also an ancestor of the brewery, and it is said that he named the sake “Tsururei,” Aoki Shuzo’s signature sake. The brand name “Makino”, which is brewed for the annual National New Sake Competition, is also named after him.

The spirit of “Wago” is an important part of sake brewing

The Minamiuonuma area is known as a battleground for famous sake breweries, and Aoki Shuzo is the oldest sake brewery in the area. Founded in 1717, Aoki Sake Brewery has made the most of the benefits of the snow, from raw materials to brewing facilities, and has continued to brew sake while respecting the characteristics of the snow country and its relationship with the local community. The brewery is also committed to contributing to the local community by donating a portion of the proceeds from the sale of “Yukio” to mountain rescue teams, as well as other efforts to create beautiful towns.

Taking advantage of the snow to make sake that suits the palates of the locals

The taste of sake also clearly expresses the characteristics of this region. The sake is characterized by its “umakuchi” taste, which maximizes the natural flavor of the rice, and is light but not dry, as is typical of Niigata. Our goal is to make a sake that goes well with meals and can be drunk as a mealtime sake,” said Muneyoshi Higuchi, toji (master brewer) of the brewery. Aoki Shuzo’s sake, of which about 40% is still consumed locally, is made with the belief that it must be enjoyed by the local people.

Aoki Sake Brewery uses Koshitanrei rice grown in Niigata Prefecture, which is grown in clean, melted snow, and water from the subsoil of Makihata Mountain, one of the 100 most famous mountains in Japan. The soft water, which is soft and tasty, is widely enjoyed by the local people. The facilities are thoroughly sanitized to produce clean koji mold over a long period of time. They are also particular about the balance of acid accents and aroma. In addition, they took the opportunity of the 300th anniversary of the company’s founding to build a new snow cellar storage facility. The entire cellar is cooled year-round by the power of natural snow, and the entire cellar can now be kept at a nearly constant temperature. All sake produced at the Aoki Brewery is stored in this cold storage facility, which utilizes natural clean energy, and is shipped fresh.

Since all alcoholic beverages in Japan are exempted from the labeling of expiration dates, sake is also not required to display an expiration date, and most sake is labeled with only the date of manufacture. However, temperature control is essential to preserve the sake’s aroma and flavor. The temperature in the snow cellar is kept at a constant level of approximately 4°C. The area dedicated to long-term storage can maintain a temperature of -5°C year-round with the help of electricity. The ability to store sake for 5, 10, or even longer periods of time allows Aoki Sake Brewery to explore the possibility of producing long-aged sake and other products. Aoki says that since the sake can be stored for five, ten, or even more years, the brewery would like to explore the possibility of producing long-aged sake. Aoki Brewery is also taking on the challenge of new brewing possibilities by further evolving the wisdom it has developed over the region’s history of working with snow.

Sake brewing for the future

Aoki Sake Brewery has a long history of 300 years since the Edo period, and its traditions have been handed down from generation to generation. Higuchi says it is important to continue this tradition in the future. We will continue to brew sake diligently, carefully, and honestly. Polishing politeness and taking on the challenge of brewing sake in line with the times are the motto of the current Aoki Sake Brewery. The ideal of sake brewing in the snow country will surely be steadily passed on to the future.

The post Aoki Sake Brewery, a 300-year-old Echigo toji (master brewer) who has handed down the unique sake brewing tradition of the snow country / Minamiuonuma City, Niigata Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Naraijuku is located in the south of Shiojiri City, Nagano Prefecture. The old post town, which was one of the eleven Kiso inns along the Nakasendo route from Edo to Kyoto, still retains the atmosphere of those days and has been designated as a national important preservation district for groups of traditional buildings. In the Edo period (1603-1867), the town was known as “Narai Senken,” and many people used to come and go. Although it is still a tourist destination that attracts approximately 600,000 visitors annually, inns and restaurants have gradually disappeared from the town as the traditional purpose of using the area for lodging has faded. The Suginomori Sake Brewery, located in a corner of the town and loved by local residents as one of the five best sake breweries in Kiso, regrettably closed its doors in 2012, ending more than 200 years of history since its establishment in 1793.

The newly reborn sake brewery “Suginomori Brewery”

In 2020, however, a project was launched to renovate the dormant sake brewery and a nearby guest house to create a lodging complex that would serve as a hub for visitors touring the Naraijuku area. Hiroshi Sandberg joined the project as a project advisor and was suddenly given the task of revitalizing the sake brewery, an important part of the project. Sandberg is a returnee with mixed roots, having a Swedish-American father and Japanese mother. He was involved in the revitalization of hotels and inns as part of his former company’s operations, and through this experience, he focused on the revitalization business utilizing Japan’s historical resources, and established Kiraku Co. Kiraku has been involved in the revitalization of regions throughout Japan, including the “Kiraku Obi” luxury accommodation facility in a fully renovated old private house in Nichinan City, Miyazaki Prefecture, the “Nazuna” ryokan-style accommodation facility in a historic building in Kyoto, and the “Kiraku” single building rental facility. He has transformed many idle real estate properties into businesses, but he had absolutely no experience in sake brewing. It was a challenge to break new ground.

However, as soon as he saw the building, his intuition took precedence: “It is rare to find a sake brewery in the middle of a sightseeing area. Many sake breweries are located in the suburbs for reasons of site and brewing environment, but the brewery felt that the building had a story to tell, having accumulated history along with the scenery of Narai-juku since its establishment. Another factor that encouraged him was the fact that the brewery still had its “sake brewing license,” which would normally have expired after the brewery closed and the business was notified of its closure. Today, it is difficult to obtain a new sake brewing license unless you have something to show for it. Of course, he understands that sake brewing is not as easy as one might think. After starting the project, he approached several breweries to see if they would be willing to cooperate with him and help with operations, but he did not receive a positive response from any of them. In the midst of all this, they invited Mr. Hidehiko Matsumoto, whom they had met through a previous project in Kyoto, to serve as an advisor. He was the toji (master brewer) of the Matsumoto Sake Brewery in Kyoto at the time, and was well known and respected in the sake industry for his “Sawaya Matsumoto Morihate” and other famous sake products. The project was launched, but Mr. Matsumoto was a little concerned about one thing. The warehouse was only 250 square meters in area.

As one might expect, few sake breweries in Japan would be able to brew sake on such a small site. However, the traditional business model of sake breweries, which is to “only brew in winter” and “only wholesale to wholesalers,” does not match the needs of the modern age, right? Based on this hypothesis, the company decided that this size was just right, as it would allow for year-round sake brewing under the watchful eye of the toji. In addition, the brewery is located in close proximity to a restaurant in the complex, allowing visitors to watch the sake brewing process up close while they dine. We thought this entertainment value was an important piece to the business, which is why we were so particular about this location.

The birth of the sake “narai”

After that, we spent about a year planning the story of the product release in reverse, launching the website, selecting the most appropriate channels, and other development activities based on our advanced marketing skills. The brewery’s toji, Masayuki Irie, who had studied sake brewing at Matsumoto’s brewery and other breweries around Japan, was invited to be the toji, and finally the “suginomori brewery” was launched, with the first sake production beginning in October 2021. The name of the sake brewed by Suginomori brewery is “narai. Like whiskey, the sake is named after a famous Japanese liquor, and is named after a place. Of course, tracing is not the only reason. By naming it after a place, we thought we could approach it from both hooks, the sake and the name of the place, in this age of widespread web searches. To live up to the name, we also pursued a flavor unique to the area. The mountain water from the Kiso River, which has been used since the time of the previous generation, “I have drunk many kinds of water throughout Japan, but the water from Narai has a top-class, clean texture.” Mr. Matsumoto praised the water so highly. The brewer insists on “Shinshu Shibori,” a method of squeezing the water using local products as much as possible, while staying close to the blessed natural environment. Of course, to avoid being too particular and niche, he is considering the global market and aims to create sake that can be enjoyed by everyone. Being involved in this project and being a returnee myself, I was able to get a bird’s eye view of the challenges of sake brewery management in Japan, such as weak management that relies on experience and the need to improve information dissemination. The introduction of seasonal brewing to improve production efficiency and provide stable employment for employees is another idea that is typical of Sandberg, who has lived abroad for a long time and is able to honestly question traditional Japanese industries. In the future, he would like to use the knowledge he has gained here to actively engage in the revitalization of sake breweries that have fallen into financial difficulties.

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Brewery loved mainly by locals goes national

Gojome-machi, Akita Prefecture, is a small town with a population of about 9,000 located in the center of Akita Prefecture, about 30 km north of Akita City. Walking through the center of the town, you will find old houses and an old marketplace with a cultural flavor, while in the distance, you will see the green forested mountains and the sound of the Babamegawa River. The city’s long history may have been fostered by the fact that this area was already established as a village in the mid-Heian period (794-1185).

In the Edo period (1603-1868), Gojome became a supply center for the Ani Mine and prospered greatly. In 1688, when the town was beginning to come alive, Fukurokuju Shuzo was founded. In the beginning, the main business was the production of doburoku. The upper and lower storehouses were designated as National Tangible Cultural Properties in 1996, and the earthen storehouse-style upper storehouse, built at the end of the 18th century, has only a few parts, but the wood is thick and strong. It is a rare building that is regarded as the prototype of Akita Prefecture’s sake brewery architecture, and is still used today as a storage facility for tanks just before bottling. The brewery’s representative brands include “Hikobei” and “Fukurokuju,” and it has long been a popular sake brewery, especially among the locals. The current head of the brewery, Yasue Watanabe, is the 16th head of the brewery. After studying brewing at a university in Tokyo, he immediately returned to the brewery, where he has been promoting a number of reforms in order to create sake with an emphasis on quality and product value. The “Ippaku Suisei” sake that Mr. Watanabe created in 2006 was a clear departure from the Fukurokuju Brewery’s previous focus on sake that could be easily mass-produced, and his insistence on producing pure rice sake, even at lower production volumes, was well received and gained nationwide popularity. The company’s sake brewery now accounts for more than half of the company’s total shipments.

Sake made with ingredients from Gojome

The year 2021 marks our 333rd anniversary. We started selling a limited edition commemorative sake in November as a token of our gratitude. With a smile on his face, Mr. Watanabe was holding a Junmai Daiginjo “333,” brewed with 33.3% Akita Sake Komachi sake rice. The last step of the brewing process, tome-brewing, was done on March 3, 2021, and the brewery was very particular about the number “3,” with a limited number of 333 bottles of “Nakadori” and 3333 bottles of “Normal Pressing” being shipped. While the first impression is fresh and juicy, there is nothing flashy about the taste. The calm and gentle aftertaste is somewhat familiar, as if it reflects Mr. Watanabe’s personality.

There are many factors that determine the taste of sake, including the brewing water, rice, and yeast, and Mr. Watanabe says he is always worried about them. The brewery has been using abundant spring water since its establishment. It is medium-hard water with high calcium and magnesium content and a good ion balance. The rice used for the brewing is sake rice grown by the “Gojome Sake Rice Research Association,” which was established more than 10 years ago. They use four main varieties of rice: Miyamanishiki, Misanishiki, Gin no Sei, and Akita Sake Komachi. In 2018, the brewery opened the Shimotacho Brewery HIKOBE, a café and social gathering place, diagonally across from the brewery. The café is a place where visitors to the brewery can relax. The menu includes sake-kasu cheesecake, brewed water coffee, and a Fukurokuju sake tasting set,” says Watanabe. Renovated from a former chest store, the space is spacious with high ceilings. Coffee cups are fired at San’on Kiln in Gojome. The kiln, which has been in operation for about 30 years, uses glaze made from plant ashes to produce pottery with a rustic texture.

Fukurokuju Brewery was born and raised in Gojome. The 16th head of the brewery, Yasue Watanabe, continues to look to the future of his town with wide-open eyes and a love of his hometown.

NIHONMONO – 「にほん」の「ほんも…

六郷の名水が生む銘酒“春霞”「栗林酒造店」／秋田県美郷町 – NIHONMONO 水の郷がうまい酒「春霞」を生む 栗林酒造店のある秋田県仙北郡は秋田のなかでも酒造りの盛んな場所。江戸時代、付近

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