In Uchiko Town, Ehime Prefecture—a town that flourished during the Edo period thanks to “mokuro,” a natural plant-based wax, and where the traditional townscape remains to this day—there is a brewery that has been producing sake for over 100 years. “Sakaroku Shuzo” was founded in Taisho 9 (1920) when several small-scale breweries joined forces. It is a long-established brewery known for its “Kyohina” brand.

Local Sake Breweries Come Together to Create “Kyohina” 

From the late Edo period through the Meiji era, Uchiko Town flourished as a center for wood wax production. The town’s white-walled streetscape, which still reflects that prosperity today, has been designated as a National Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings.

The roots of “Sakaroku Shuzo,” which operates a brewery in this town steeped in historical charm, date back to the Edo period.

Thanks to the high-quality water from the Oda Miyama Gorge and the climate conditions of the mid-mountainous region—which have long been ideal for sake brewing—there were more than a dozen sake breweries in this area, which was then part of the Ozu Domain. Eight of these breweries joined forces and built a new facility in Taisho 9 (1920), marking the beginning of the company. Breweries from the former towns of Uchiko and Ikazaki (now Uchiko Town) and Ozu City merged to establish Kita Shuzo Co., Ltd.

“Since each one was a small brewery—too small to be called a ‘sake brewery’ on its own—I think the natural progression was for them to come together to produce sake on a larger scale,” says Naoyuki Takechi, the current owner.

In Showa 16 (1941), Ken’ichirō Sakai, who ran a cotton textile business in Yawatahama within the prefecture, acquired the brewery and founded “Sakuroku Shuzo.” He inherited “Kyōhina,” the flagship brand that had been in production since the company’s founding. The name is said to derive from the fact that sake served to a renowned monk in Kyoto was highly praised, and that the occasion coincided with the Hinamatsuri (Doll Festival).

“Looking at the sign still hanging in the brewery, I see that during the Kita Shuzo era, it was written in kanji as ‘Kyōbina’ (京雛). At some point, it changed to ‘Kyōhina.’ Since this is a brewery that produces clear sake rather than cloudy sake, I think the intention was to remove the dakuten,” says Mr. Takachi.

Embracing the Local Food Culture 

In Ehime, blessed with the bounty of the Seto Inland Sea, the cuisine features dishes that highlight the natural flavors of the ingredients, particularly sea bream and whitefish.
“Country cooking isn’t about adding ingredients—it’s about subtracting them. It’s about simply enjoying the natural flavors of the ingredients. To complement this regional culinary tradition, our sake is slightly dry with a clean finish. It doesn’t take center stage; rather, it acts as a supporting player, enhancing the dining experience. That’s the kind of sake I like, and that’s always been the character of Kyohina,” says Mr. Takachi.

Sake from Sakuroku Sake Brewery has long been cherished as a supporting actor that helps people savor the moment while enjoying a meal.

Mr. Takechi’s Challenge to Preserve and Carry On the “Kyohina” Legacy 

Mr. Takechi was not originally the heir to Sakuroku Brewery. He came to take over the brewery through his marriage to Mika, the daughter of the previous owner, Fujio Sakai.

After graduating from college, Mr. Takechi worked for an electronics manufacturer in Tokyo, leading a fulfilling life as an engineer. It was during this time that he met Mika and married her. Although he knew her family owned a sake brewery, he had absolutely no plans to take it over at the time.

However, a turning point came suddenly.
“In 2010, my father-in-law passed away suddenly, and after discussions among the family, we concluded that if my wife and I didn’t take over, the brewery would have to close. So we thought, ‘If we can pitch in, let’s give it a try…’ To be honest, at that time, I didn’t really understand how difficult sake brewing would be,” he recalls.

At Sakuroku Sake Brewery, we have invited master brewers from Ikata—a tradition originating in Ikata Town, Nishiuwa District—to produce sake based on traditional techniques. Mr. Takechi, who became the representative of Sakuroku Sake Brewery, learned from them, living and working side by side to master their craft.

“Having such outstanding Ikata Toji master brewers with us made a huge difference. Together with the employees who have been here since the previous generation, we’ve worked hard with the determination to preserve ‘Kyohina,’ and that’s how we’ve reached where we are today.”

What the previous generation valued most was handcrafted sake brewing focused on quality, rather than mass production. Mr. Takachi, who adopted this philosophy and took on the role of master brewer himself, has guided the brewery to its continued success through his flexible approach and the rationality of his engineering background.

Between Tradition and Innovation

Sakaroku Shuzo’s main brand is “Kyohina.” Under this umbrella, a lineup of distinctive sub-brands—such as “Ichito Ryōdan” and “Suimōken”—are featured.

The flagship product is the dry junmai daiginjo “Ichidō Ryōdan.” It is made with Yamada Nishiki and Matsuyama Mitsui rice varieties grown in Ehime Prefecture. The rice polishing ratio is 50%. The umami of the polished rice spreads across the palate, and the finish is clean and crisp. While it has a dry and crisp flavor, it also offers a subtle hint of rice sweetness, and it is highly regarded for being a sake that never gets boring.

In addition, the brewery offers a range of distinctive brands, including the dry daiginjo “Kōsaburō,” the junmai daiginjo “Kakushiken,” and the junmai ginjo “Uchikozaza.” “Uchikozaza,” in particular, was created to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Uchikozaza theater—built in Taishō 5 (1916)—and is an ambitious creation made using yeast unique to Ehime. In 2024, the brewery won a Gold Medal at the “SAKE COMPETITION” and Silver Medals in both the SAKE and Junmai categories at the “IWC (International Wine Challenge).”

“I’d be happy if our sake could be one of the elements that helps create those moments when customers gather around the table with their loved ones and share conversations.” Mr. Takechi’s sentiment has resonated, and “Kyohina” has received numerous inquiries from seafood-focused izakayas and yakitori restaurants, complementing a wide range of dining experiences that transcend the boundaries between Japanese and Western cuisine.

“While I do have some concerns about branding, I want to preserve what my father-in-law built, so I’m carefully carrying on these brands.”

In fact, the previous generation’s leader, Fujio Sakai, had aspired to be a film actor in Tokyo when he was young. He was part of the 13th class of Toho New Faces.

“When I look at old photos, he was a real heartthrob. I hear he retired from acting, returned to his hometown, and took over the family sake brewery—he had a sense of style that I just don’t possess. Back when sake was strongly associated with men, he focused on creating sake that women would find appealing. He used vibrantly colored bottles and came up with creative names. I think he was taking on challenges that were very innovative for his time.”

While remaining committed to the traditional, handmade production methods in the wooden warehouse that has been in use since the brewery’s founding, Mr. Takechi leveraged his experience as an engineer to drive efficiency improvements and capital investments. He implemented mechanization to maintain consistent quality even with a limited staff, while also establishing systems that allowed the team to focus fully on tasks—such as sensory evaluation and moromi management—that can only be performed by humans.

“Making good sake takes time and effort, but spending too much of it to the point where the brewery can’t survive defeats the purpose. We place great importance on balancing quality and business management.”
As a result, despite being a small brewery with a production capacity of 300 koku, the company has built a stable market with mid- to high-priced products and is expanding its sales channels both within and outside the prefecture.

Cherishing the bonds between people

Sakaroku Shuzo’s sales model is based on a traditional system of authorized dealers where everyone knows each other personally. Rather than relying on wholesalers, the company has always prioritized building relationships of trust with local liquor stores. The history of the company—which has thrived by taking the encouragement and constructive criticism from these stores to heart—remains alive today.

“We sometimes receive harsh advice from the liquor store owners, but I’m actually grateful when they speak their minds clearly. After all, business is really all about the connections between people,” says Mr. Takachi.

Leveraging the connections he made during his time in Tokyo, the brewery owner has personally worked to increase direct contact with customers by hosting tasting events and sake gatherings—a significant factor in the company’s success. It is precisely because they are a small brewery that they are able to build trust through these personal, face-to-face relationships.

Looking Ahead to the Next 100 Years: Challenges and Prospects for the Future

At the same time, there are challenges to face: rebuilding aging breweries, finding successors, and establishing a sustainable management structure. While sake brewing is a traditional industry, a business perspective is essential.

Mr. Takechi speaks about what makes a “good brewery” as follows:
“It’s a company where everyone—including the employees—can make a decent living. To ensure that the history of this brewery, which has endured for 100 years, is not cut short and to carry it forward into the next 100 years, we must generate profits and create an environment where our employees take pride in their work and want to continue. That is my role.”

His words convey both the level-headedness of a business leader and the passion of someone deeply involved in sake brewing.

“I believe sake is a culture that will never disappear, but it’s true that the industry is facing tough times. While each brewery is going through a process of trial and error, the sake that survives this period of consolidation will surely be recognized worldwide.”

From engineer to brewery owner. Mr. Takechi’s journey, guided by the flow of events, was both a coincidence and an inevitability. Supported by the natural beauty and the bonds of community in Uchiko Town, Sakuroku Brewery continues to take new steps forward today under the name “Kyohina.”

The post From Engineer to Sake Brewer: Naoyuki Takachi of “Sakaroku Shuzo” Takes on the Challenge of Carrying On the “Kyohina” Legacy Through an Unconventional Career Change / Uchiko Town, Ehime Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Sake brewing, a tradition passed down through the mountains of Shimane Prefecture, is now gaining new momentum. Drawing on the history preserved by the Tanabe and Takeshita families, master brewer Ryota Hamazaki is crafting sake that resonates with modern lifestyles while working closely with the local water and rice.

The Tanabe and Takeshita Families: A Legacy of Sake Brewing

Located in Kakeya, Unnan City, Shimane Prefecture, “Tanabe Takeshita Sake Brewery” is a sake brewery built upon the history of two families: the Tanabe family, who were long involved in tatara ironmaking in Okuizumo, and the Takeshita family, who carried on their sake-brewing tradition. Today, the Tanabe family has once again taken over the business, and sake is being brewed at this location.

Sake Brewing and the Tatara Ironmaking Process

In Okuizumo’s Yoshida Town in Shimane Prefecture, the traditional Japanese ironmaking process known as “tatara” was once thriving. The Tanabe family served as the head of this industry and played a central role in supporting it as a pillar of the local community. Ironmaking required a large workforce; it is said that at its peak, more than 20,000 people were involved in the industry.

Among the various businesses the family operated—including tatara ironmaking—was sake brewing.

A Storehouse Passed Down Through the Generations—and Now Returned

However, toward the end of the Edo period, the warehouse was destroyed by fire. In 1866, the sake brewing license was transferred to the Takeshita family in Kakeya, Unnan City, and sake production was continued there.

The Takeshita family is also the family of Noboru Takeshita, the 74th Prime Minister of Japan. Operating as “Takeshita Honten,” the family continued to preserve the tradition of sake brewing for over 150 years thereafter, but in 2003, they suspended brewing operations and switched to purchasing ready-made sake by the barrel.

The disused sake brewery was donated to Unnan City and has been open to the public as the “Kakeya Sake Brewery Museum” since 2005. While the physical structure remains, its role as a place where sake is produced has been relinquished.

Then, in 2022, the Takeshita family faced the challenge of a lack of successors. It was the Tabe family—to whom they had once entrusted their sake-brewing license—that stepped in to help with business succession.

The history of sake brewing, passed down between the two families, led them to make a fresh start as Tanabe Takeshita Sake Brewery in order to preserve that legacy.

Master Brewer Ryota Hamazaki and a New Form of Sake

The head brewer at Tanabe Takeshita Sake Brewery is Mr. Hamazaki, a native of Fukuoka Prefecture. He studied environmental microbiology in college. It was during that time that he heard, “Sake has the most difficult brewing process of any alcoholic beverage,” which sparked his interest in sake.

Mr. Hamazaki then embarked on a career in sake brewing, training at breweries in Okayama and Aichi to gain hands-on experience.

It was during this time that he heard about the search for a successor at Tanabe Takeshita Sake Brewery. “I told myself I’d go anywhere as long as I could brew my own sake,” he said. True to his word, he decided without hesitation to head to Shimane.

Kakeai, which he visited for the first time, was a quiet town surrounded by mountains. It was also a place where a culture of fermentation thrived in everyday life, with families still making their own miso by hand.

Brewing Sake from Scratch: Our Goal Was “The Summer Sea of San’in”

When Mr. Hamazaki took over the brewery, sake production had already ceased at this location. Although a master brewer had been selected, the facilities needed for brewing were not in place. It was truly a matter of starting from scratch.

Faced with a brewery that had been unused for a long time, the first task was to prepare the space so it would be suitable for brewing sake. He identified which pieces of the old equipment were still usable and retained them, while adding new equipment where necessary.

In 2022, the environment for sake brewing was finally in place, and in the early stages of the relaunch, they conducted repeated test brews. While exploring yeast strains and brewing conditions, they began to shape the profile of the sake they aimed to create in this region.

Through this process, Mr. Hamazaki envisioned “a sake with the clarity of the San’in Sea in summer.”

The result of this journey was “Rihachi.” Named after the head of the Takeshita family at the time the brewing license was granted, this sake embodies a deep respect for history.

Fruity and clear, yet not too light—it offers a flavor that invites you to keep drinking. Rather than seeking flashiness, the goal is to create a sake that is naturally chosen as part of everyday life.

The Sensations of the Sake-Brewery Floor

Sake brewing begins with handling rice and water: washing the rice, steaming it, making koji, mashing, and fermentation. Each of these steps builds upon the others, ultimately shaping the flavor of the sake.

While controlling temperature and timing is, of course, important, Mr. Hamazaki says he “deliberately avoids relying on data.” He values brewing sake based on his accumulated experience, while using his five senses to detect subtle differences—such as aroma, the condition of the foam, and changes in sound.

Sometimes he even visits the brewery in the middle of the night. Because sake is constantly changing, he must stay attuned to its evolution at all times.

Mr. Hamazaki says, “The real sake brewing begins after the sake is pressed.” Sake brewing continues not only through the production process but also through subsequent management and distribution. For this reason, Tanabe Takeshita Sake Brewery sells its products directly to consumers, bypassing wholesalers. This decision prioritizes quality control and the speed with which the sake reaches consumers.

Sake Brewing That Bridges the Next Generation

Meanwhile, Tanabe Takeshita Sake Brewery is currently investing approximately 1.2 billion yen to construct a new brewery within the city. The company aims to relocate there in May 2027. The new facility will feature year-round brewing with fully controlled temperature and humidity, enabling the brewery to supply sake of consistently high quality throughout the year. The plan is to increase production to 161,100 liters—more than seven times the current output—by the fiscal year ending September 2030.

Of course, even as the scale changes, their approach to sake brewing remains unchanged. Looking ahead, they are also considering a brewing process that fully incorporates local water and rice, creating a self-contained production cycle within this region.

There is no guarantee that the sake we enjoy today will be in demand in the same form 50 years from now. Nevertheless, continuing to brew sake in this very place is what connects us to the next generation.

From the Tanabe family to the Takeshita family, and back to the Tabe family again. The legacy of sake brewing, passed down through the generations, continues to this day.

The post Carrying on the legacy and moving forward once again. Ryota Hamazaki of Tanabe Takeshita Sake Brewery, supported by two families / Unnan City, Shimane Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The Kumano Kodo is a pilgrimage route to the Kumano Sanzan that many people have walked. Among these routes, the “Kii-ji,” which runs south through Wakayama Prefecture, passes through the Fujishiro district in Kainan City. Nearby stands Fujishiro Shrine, the historic site of Fujishiro Oji—one of the “Kumano Kujūku Oji” (99 Kumano Princes) where travelers paid their respects along the way and which was considered particularly prestigious. Within the shrine grounds stands the Suzuki Residence, believed to be the ancestral home of all people named “Suzuki” across Japan. It is said that the Suzuki clan, who migrated from Kumano, used this area as a base to spread the Kumano faith throughout the country, and Fujishiro has long been a place where people and culture have intermingled. Settled in this very Fujishiro is “Nakano BC,” a sake brewery that grew to become one of the top producers in Wakayama Prefecture in just three generations.

A History of Challenges That Began with a Dream of Opening a Sake Brewery

Nakano BC traces its origins back to 1932. The grandfather of Koji Nakano, the company’s president and CEO, had a dream of brewing sake, but at the time, starting a sake brewery required not only obtaining a brewing license but also a substantial amount of capital. So, he first began producing soy sauce under the name “Nakano Soy Sauce Shop,” laying the foundation for the business while waiting for the right moment to venture into sake brewing.

“I’ve heard that my grandfather, while harboring a deep longing to brew sake, first solidified his footing through the soy sauce business,” says Mr. Nakano, quietly reflecting on his grandfather’s dream—one that was not easily realized—and the many years spent working toward it.

Sake Brewing That Keeps Pace with the Times

In 1949, 17 years after the company’s founding, the groundwork laid through the soy sauce business had been established, allowing the company to take the long-awaited step into the sake brewing industry. The first product they produced was shochu. Combining the name of Mount Fuji—a symbol of Japan—with that of Fujishiro in Kainan City, where the brewery was located, they named it “Fujishiro.” While building the foundation of the business through soy sauce production, the founder’s long-cherished dream had finally come to fruition.

Nine years later, in 1958, the company changed its name to “Nakano Shuzo” upon entering the sake brewing business. This marked the birth of the “Chokyū” brand, which remains popular to this day. As the 62nd sake brewery established in the prefecture—a relative latecomer to the industry—the brewery reportedly struggled with sales in the early days. Nevertheless, with the goal of creating sake that would be enjoyed at the daily dinner table, the brewery has steadily refined its craftsmanship while honing the quality of its products.

The sake-brewing traditions passed down through the generations have also evolved with the times. Today’s sake aims to offer a robust umami flavor combined with a lightness that melts smoothly on the palate. The brewery continues to refine its sake to complement contemporary tastes—creating a beverage that enhances the flavors of food without feeling heavy, even as you drink more.

Eventually, the company expanded its operations into plum wine production and began developing health foods that leverage its expertise in fermentation and extraction. The knowledge accumulated as a sake brewery was not confined to sake alone but was applied to new fields as well.

This philosophy was reflected in the company’s name change in 2002 from “Nakano Shuzo” to “Nakano BC.” “BC” derives from “Biochemical Creation,” signifying “the creation of biochemistry.” By advancing research and development in both the alcoholic beverages and health food sectors, the company draws out the potential of Wakayama’s local ingredients and transforms them into new value. This effort embodies the spirit of inquiry that has been passed down since the company’s founding.

Dealing with Over 1,000 Metric Tons of Plums a Year

Nakano BC, which expanded from soy sauce brewing to sake brewing, began producing plum wine made from Kishu plums in 1979. Today, plum-related products—such as plum wine, plum extract, and plum juice—have become a major pillar supporting the company’s revenue. The company reportedly purchases more than 1,000 metric tons of plums annually and processes them according to their intended use, variety, and harvest season. 

Through continuous efforts to refine quality, the company’s plum wine won a gold award at the “Monde Selection,” a world-renowned quality competition, in 1990. 

The aroma and flavor of plums vary depending on the harvest season 

Upon stepping into the plum wine cellar, you’re greeted by more than 40 massive tanks. Inside, the aroma and tartness of the plums slowly infuse into the liquor, maturing over time into a single, harmonious flavor.

Even among plums of the same variety, the aroma, tartness, and condition of the fruit vary depending on when they’re harvested.

Plums harvested early, while still slightly green, produce a refreshing, youthful aroma. On the other hand, plums that have been bathed in the sun and turned reddish possess a more vibrant and rich aroma. Mr. Nakano explains, “It’s important to envision the flavor of the plum wine you want to create and select fruit harvested at the right time to match that vision.”

Furthermore, to achieve not only the ideal flavor but also the desired color, he carefully selects different plum varieties. He doesn’t rely solely on the “Nanko-ume,” a particularly well-known variety from Wakayama Prefecture—which boasts the highest plum production in Japan. He explores the unique characteristics of each variety, such as “Tsuyuakane”—a hybrid of plum and apricot with red flesh—and “Purple Queen,” a small plum with a vivid reddish-purple skin. He is also working on the development of “Assemblage Umeshu,” which combines base spirits of different varieties and ages, much like blending wine.

Time and Skill: Bringing Out the Unique Character of Plums 

The base umeshu is made by placing plums, sugar, and white liquor into a tank.

About six months after the initial brewing, the plums are removed, and the liquid is left to age further. This allows the astringency inherent in the plums to mellow, resulting in an umeshu where the aroma, acidity, and sweetness are in perfect harmony. It is said that some unblended umeshu, aged for over 10 years, is also stored here.

Umeshu is often perceived as a sweet liquor. However, if it were simply made sweet, one would quickly grow tired of it. How does one design the acidity that supports the sweetness and the elements that provide a crisp finish? The brewer’s experience and skill are reflected in achieving that balance.

Umeshu: From Home-Style Flavors to the World

In Wakayama—a major plum-producing region—the custom of pickling harvested plums at home is deeply rooted, and umeshu has long been cherished as something “made at home.” As a result, simply blending plums, sugar, and white liquor made it difficult to distinguish these products from homemade versions, and establishing them as commercial products was reportedly no easy task.

Consequently, Nakano BC sought to create flavors that would be difficult to replicate at home by combining ingredients such as red shiso, green tea, and fruit. Around the year 2000, against the backdrop of a growing health consciousness, umeshu began to attract attention, particularly among women, and the ways to enjoy it expanded significantly—including varieties based on sake or whiskey, as well as those with added fruit juice.

Currently, Nakano BC produces approximately 30 varieties of umeshu. The company offers a diverse range of flavors, from authentic umeshu that capitalizes on differences in plum varieties and aging periods to more approachable products blended with lemon or green tea.

This umeshu has now become a cornerstone of the company’s overseas business. It is exported to approximately 30 countries, including China, Taiwan, Hong Kong, and South Korea, as well as Thailand, Singapore, the United States, France, Italy, and Germany. It is embraced not only in Asia, where plums are familiar, but also in Europe and the United States, where a culture of liqueurs is well-established.

Umeshu, which has been cherished in households across Japan, has developed its own unique character as a commercial product through the ingenuity of its makers. Known overseas simply as “UMESHU,” it has become a beloved beverage. This drink, deeply rooted in the daily life of Wakayama, is crossing the seas and reaching new audiences.

Craftsmanship and Tourism, Linked by a Japanese Garden and a Sake Brewery 

A vast Japanese garden occupies about half of the approximately 10,000 tsubo site. The pond within the garden was originally constructed to provide cooling water for the distillation of shochu. It was later landscaped to serve as a welcoming space for visitors to the brewery, and today it offers a lush, green landscape where colorful koi and swans swim.

The pond covers an area of approximately 3,000 tsubo. It is said that the founder himself tended to the garden, shaping it over many years. The pond, which once provided the water essential for sake brewing, has now become a place that conveys both the brewery’s history and the rich natural beauty of Wakayama.

Nakano BC has long been committed to tourism initiatives, such as brewery tours. Opening up the production facilities and sharing the history and techniques of sake brewing not only provides enjoyment for visitors but also helps raise the awareness and pride of the staff.

Turning the Sake Brewery into an Open Space Where the Community and People Gather

In April 2026, Nakano BC relocated its company-owned store, “Chokyuan,” across from its headquarters and reopened it after renovations. The previous store was located within the sake brewery grounds, and it was reportedly a bit difficult for first-time visitors to find their way there.

The new “Chokyuan” features a selection of products unique to a company-operated store, including sake, plum wine, and health foods. In addition to a tasting corner, the shop now offers gelato made by Kurosawa Farm, also located in Kainan City. Alongside the “Milk” flavor—which highlights the farm’s fresh milk—the menu features flavors incorporating Wakayama ingredients such as plum, Marihime, Sanbokan, and hojicha, ensuring that even non-drinkers and families with children can enjoy the experience.

It has evolved from a shop solely for purchasing sake into a place where locals and tourists alike can casually drop by to experience Nakano BC’s craftsmanship and the flavors of Wakayama. A new gateway is emerging that brings the sake brewery closer to the people.

Prepare it yourself and enjoy watching the plum change over time

At the umeshu-making experience facility adjacent to “Chokuan,” visitors can also make their very own bottle of umeshu.

First, sterilize the bottle, carefully wipe each plum one by one, and remove the stems with a bamboo skewer. Layer the prepared plums and rock sugar in the bottle, then pour in white liquor to finish the process.

While each step is simple, invisible changes begin inside the bottle immediately after the mixture is prepared. It is said that the sugar not only adds sweetness but also draws out the plum’s hidden aroma and acidity through osmosis.

The character of the finished plum wine varies depending on the amount and type of sugar used. Rock sugar yields a crisp sweetness, beet sugar a mellow flavor, and honey adds a rich, full-bodied depth. The time spent preparing the mixture while imagining how it will taste six months later is another joy of making plum wine.

While picturing the taste 

Take the prepared umeshu home, and for the first three months or so, turn the bottle upside down from time to time to allow the sugar and plums to blend slowly. After letting it rest for another three months or so, it will finally be ready to drink—the moment you’ve been eagerly awaiting.

Inside the bottle, the rock sugar gradually dissolves, and the once-clear liquid slowly transforms into an amber hue. Watching this transformation unfold is one of the joys you can only experience because you made it yourself.

Whether it’s a single bottle aged at a sake brewery or a jar brewed at home, time flows the same for both. It slowly draws out the plum’s aroma and tartness, nurturing them into a single, harmonious flavor. In this process, the wisdom of umeshu brewing—passed down through the ages—continues to live on.

Transforming Sake Brewing Techniques and Research into New Value 

The skills honed through sake brewing are not limited to the production of sake alone. At Nakano BC, the company is applying its knowledge of fermentation, extraction, and cultivation to expand its business into health foods and products that highlight aromatic qualities.

At first glance, these may seem like entirely different fields. However, at their core lies a shared approach: carefully examining raw materials and conducting extensive research to unlock the latent potential within them.

The company’s motto is “Always create through collective wisdom.” By pooling the wisdom and experience of each employee, the company generates new products, technologies, and value. Embodying this motto, the techniques cultivated in the sake brewery are leading to new ways of manufacturing that make the most of Wakayama’s local ingredients.

The Bounty of Wakayama, Captured in Sake and Fragrance 

It’s not just plums. Wakayama boasts a diverse array of ingredients that reflect the region’s unique climate and terroir, including mandarin oranges, sansho pepper, jabara, cedar, and cypress.

At Nakano BC, we have been incorporating the unique aromas and flavors of these ingredients into our spirits. One such example is the craft gin from Fuji Shiro Distillery. “Maki—KOZUE—” features Japanese cypress (Koyamaki) as its main ingredient, along with Satsuma mandarin and lemon peels, and sansho pepper seeds. “Kodachi” combines Kishu cedar, Kishu cypress, citrus peels, and sansho pepper seeds. Both Satsuma mandarins and Japanese pepper are specialty products for which Wakayama Prefecture boasts the highest production volume in the nation. Kishu cedar and Kishu cypress are also ingredients that reflect the natural environment of Wakayama, blessed with abundant forests. By layering the refreshing notes of citrus and the crisp aftertaste of Japanese pepper over a forest-like aroma, these gins capture the scenery of Wakayama in a single glass.

Beyond sake, the company leverages its technology for extracting aromatic compounds from ingredients to develop aromatic oils using sansho and other ingredients. Sake focuses on flavor and aroma, while aromatic oils fill a space with scent. Although their uses differ, they share a common approach: carefully drawing out the unique character of each plant. This meticulous attention to even the rising aroma is a principle applied equally to sake brewing and health foods.

They do not use ingredients simply because they are “from Wakayama.” Instead, they analyze bitterness, astringency, acidity, and even the intensity of the aroma to determine how best to combine these elements to bring out the ingredients’ appeal. This reflects Nakano BC’s unique perspective: researching the region’s bounty and transforming it into new value.

Sake That Complements Your Meals and Reflects the Spirit of Wakayama

The flagship sake brands of Nakano BC are “Chokyū,” “Chōkyū,” and “Kinokuniya Bunzaemon.”

“Chokyū” is a brand name that embodies the wish for “a sake that will be loved for a long, long time.” It has long been cherished as a sake that accompanies daily meals. “Chōkyū,” which carries on this legacy, is a series of “Tokutei Meishō” sakes born from the desire to create even higher-quality sake using techniques that surpass those of the previous generation. Although the pronunciation is the same, the character “長” (chō) has been replaced with “超” (chō), symbolizing a renewed commitment to sake brewing.

“Kinokuniya Bunzaemon” is a brand named after a prominent merchant with ties to Wakayama. Drawing parallels with the story of a figure said to have transported mandarin oranges to Edo, it expresses the essence of Wakayama through sake.

While the lineup once centered on sake with a sweet and full-bodied character, the quality of the sake has evolved over time. The brewery pursues a lightness that melts away on the palate while retaining the umami and richness of the rice. The goal has been to create a sake that complements the flavors of food and naturally leads to the next sip.

Going Beyond the Boundaries of a Sake Brewery: Carrying Wakayama’s Ingredients into the Future

In Japan, the markets for sake and plum wine are struggling to grow, and poor plum harvests due to abnormal weather conditions continue. Nakano BC faces no small number of challenges: securing a stable supply of raw materials, maintaining quality, and creating products that will be chosen by the next generation.

Nevertheless, the company never stops taking on new challenges. It explores new flavors in plum wine through aging and blending, and delivers these products from Wakayama to the world. Furthermore, the company is applying the knowledge and techniques cultivated through sake brewing to the health sector and new ingredients, adding unprecedented value to the region’s natural bounty.

Taking ingredients received from the land, refining them with the wisdom and skills of the craftspeople, and passing them on to the next generation—this is the philosophy of Nakano BC, which began with soy sauce production and has expanded its horizons into sake, health foods, and fragrances. At the core of this approach lies a commitment to closely examining local ingredients and drawing out their untapped potential.

By understanding the characteristics of the ingredients, analyzing the production process, and conducting repeated trials, we craft the desired flavors and aromas. Although the fields we engage in are diverse, we never approach any of them halfheartedly. What unites them all is a curiosity to “learn more” and the technical skill to bring our visions to life.

What flavors and aromas still lie dormant within Wakayama’s ingredients? Seeking out those answers and bringing them to life is the very essence of Nakano BC’s craftsmanship.

The post Transforming Wakayama’s Plums into Sake and Health Benefits: “Nakano BC”—Over 90 Years of Exploration / Kainan City, Wakayama Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

There is a rice shochu with a fresh, crisp aroma, reminiscent of wildflowers drenched in morning dew. When you take a sip, a gentle sweetness spreads across your palate, then vanishes as quickly as mist. Its creator, Kazunobu Torikai, spent about 10 years developing a flavor that sets this shochu apart from all others. The name of this shochu is “Ginka Torikai.”

At age 24, he returned to his hometown to take over a 400-year-old sake brewery

The Hitoyoshi-Kuma region, located at the southern tip of Kumamoto Prefecture. Encircled by the Kyushu Seiryo Mountain Range, this crescent-shaped basin experiences sweltering summers and winters when the entire region is shrouded in thick fog. High-quality water springs from the beautiful yet rugged mountains, forming the Kuma River—one of Japan’s three major rapids—which flows down through the center of the basin, bringing fertile soil and abundant water resources to its watershed. The climate, characterized by the large temperature fluctuations typical of basins, combined with the fertile land, has made this area one of Kumamoto’s leading rice-producing regions, and “Kuma Shochu”—a shochu made from this rice—boasts a history of approximately 500 years.

In 1949, Kazunobu Torikai was born in Hitoyoshi City to the Torikai Shuzo distillery, a 400-year-old producer of Kuma Shochu. The Torikai family is said to have moved from Kyoto during the Heian period, and records from the Edo period show that they produced brewed sake, shochu, vinegar, miso, and soy sauce.

Mr. Torikai was the youngest of seven siblings. After graduating from a local high school, he moved to Tokyo to pursue a career as a painter. His second-eldest brother had taken over the brewery, so Mr. Torikai had never even considered getting involved in the family business. However, in 1973, at the age of 24, he received a call from his eldest brother informing him that their father had fallen ill. At that time, his second-eldest brother—who had taken over the family business—had also stepped down due to the brewery’s financial struggles. With each brother pursuing a different path, the question arose as to who would take the second-eldest brother’s place and safeguard the brewery; ultimately, the choice fell on Mr. Torikai. Thus, Mr. Torikai unexpectedly found himself taking over the family business.

Aiming to Develop a New Shochu Based on Its Ginjo Aroma

In my grandfather’s day, the family business had been resting on its laurels as the fifth-largest among the 37 Kuma shochu distilleries at the time. However, it was gradually pushed to the brink by the momentum of neighboring distilleries that were constantly striving to improve their taste, quality, and sales channels. By the time Mr. Torikai took over, it had fallen to the very bottom of the 34 remaining distilleries. His daily routine began—working nonstop from early morning until late at night just to keep the distillery afloat. He did everything from polishing the rice to making koji, brewing, bottling, and collecting empty bottles.

But in business, hard work doesn’t always translate to increased sales. Price competition within the small basin grew fiercer year by year, so Mr. Torikai took the bold step of selling directly to consumers in a bid to survive. Furthermore, the second shochu boom of the early 1980s intensified competition with major manufacturers. Although “Kiyotama,” the rice shochu his family had brewed for generations, had once won first place at a tasting competition, it lacked a distinctive character and was getting lost among the products of other breweries. Consequently, Mr. Torikai resolved to develop a new shochu.

His starting point was “ginjo-ka”—the components that produce the fruity and floral aromas generated during the fermentation of sake yeast. In the sake industry, this is known as ginjo-ka.

It was an era when distillers were asking, “Aroma is flavor—can we capture the aroma produced by yeast in a distilled spirit?” Since then, he pored over ancient documents and academic papers, visited master brewers and researchers known as “master craftsmen,” and repeated his research and experiments. Even when they thought an experiment had succeeded, upon closer inspection, the aroma would often differ from their ideal or prove impossible to reproduce. It was not until 1994 that they finally perfected the shochu they sought—nearly 10 years after they first resolved to develop it.

In a revitalized natural environment, we are on a quest to create a new shochu

He named the shochu—a masterpiece he was thoroughly pleased with—”Ginka Torikai,” after his own surname. The ginjo aroma stems from ginjo koji—made from rice polished to 58%—and yeast cultivated in-house. As a shochu with a distinctive and unforgettable flavor unlike any other, “Ginka Torikai” was immediately flooded with orders upon its release and won a Special Gold Award at the 1996 Monde Selection International Food Competition, alongside Johnnie Walker.

In response to this overwhelming reception, Torikai Shuzo decided to focus exclusively on the “Ginka Torikai” brand for sales. The company believed this approach would strengthen its branding power and dispel the negative perceptions associated with its older brands, which had been losing popularity. However, some 30 years after the creation of “Ginka Torikai,” Mr. Torikai continues to pursue the creation of new shochu. The turning point came with the completion of the “Kusatsu Distillery” and the “Yokitogi Koji Warehouse.”

Upon learning of plans to build an industrial waste treatment facility in the Kusatsu River basin—one of the few remaining clear streams in the Hitoyoshi Basin—Mr. Torikai purchased 150 hectares of forested land in 2000 to stop the project.

Over the course of five years, they worked to restore the natural environment, which had been ravaged by excessive deforestation and mudslides. As part of the company’s operations, they built stone retaining walls, removed fallen trees and boulders, and planted broadleaf trees to restore the clear stream. In 2005, the Kusatsu Distillery was completed. Subsequently, in 2012, the Onokuri Koji Warehouse was completed on a 15-hectare site created by leveling abandoned farmland and forested land.

Mr. Torikai explains the reason he undertook these initiatives by saying, “Everything—including caring for the environment—is part of sake brewing.” He believes that revitalizing the forests and rivers to produce pure water is an essential prerequisite for improving the quality of the shochu. Currently, at these two facilities, he continues to refine and produce “Ginka Torikai” while also experimenting with new shochu recipes. He is also considering whether “Seikyu”—once the distillery’s flagship product—can be reintroduced in a form suited to the present era.

The “Sake You Can’t Find Anywhere” I Even Dream About

The Kusatsu River, which Mr. Torikai showed me, was so pristine that it was hard to believe it had once been so degraded. The water used to clean the tanks at the distillery is transported off-site for treatment. The rice is washed at the koji warehouse before being transported to the distillery. The reason they repeat these tasks—which might seem like nothing but extra work—is their determination not to discharge any wastewater into the Kusatsu River, even if it has been purified. I truly felt that the clear stream before my eyes is being protected by this series of deliberate choices.

Mr. Torikai has never relied solely on intuition when deciding how to brew sake or interact with nature; instead, he has analyzed every aspect, thought things through from multiple angles, and moved forward without compromising his convictions.

“A sake that possesses all the finest qualities of sake, yet is unlike any other. Sometimes I wake up from a dream in which I’ve created just such a sake.”

Perhaps what Mr. Torikai is pursuing is not merely a “new sake.” It is likely a single drop that transcends time and space, imbued with the climate and nature of Hitoyoshi-Kuma, as well as the daily lives and very concepts of its people. “I don’t think completion is that far off,” he said. Mr. Torikai’s cheerful voice melted into the crisp mountain air.

The post Refining aromas, protecting the mountains, and dreaming of sake. Kazunobu Torikai of “Torikai Shuzo” / Hitoyoshi City, Kumamoto Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Kikuzakari Brewery, located in Kitakami City, Iwate Prefecture, produces many distinctive sake varieties, including its flagship brand, “Taxi Driver.” Takuya Fujimura, the brewery’s owner, took over as the fifth-generation head at the age of 30. While overcoming the hardships of the Great East Japan Earthquake, he steered the brewery toward becoming Iwate Prefecture’s first “all-junmai sake brewery,” using only rice grown in Iwate Prefecture. Each of these choices has shaped the unique character of Kikuzakari Brewery today.

Born as the fifth-generation head of a sake brewery, he became president at the age of 30.

Kitakami City is located in central Iwate Prefecture, where the Kitakami and Waga Rivers converge in a fertile basin dotted with rolling countryside. At the northern tip of the city stands Kikuzakari Sake Brewery Co., Ltd., which was founded in 1894 as Fujimura Sake Brewery. Following the consolidation and restructuring of sake breweries under wartime regulations, the company adopted its current name in 1951. Since then, it has continued to brew sake deeply rooted in the local community under brands such as “Kikuzakari” and “Onikenbai.”

“The heyday was during my grandfather’s time—he was the third-generation owner—and in the 1970s, we were producing approximately 4,000 koku (equivalent to 400,000 one-shō bottles) of sake annually. Since local consumption accounted for over 90 percent of sales, it seems we mainly produced everyday standard sake. My grandfather also served as chairman of the local tourism association, so he created various sake brands inspired by the region, such as ‘Onikenbai’ and ‘Shishi Odori’—traditional performing arts of the area—as well as the local song ‘Kitakami Yakyoku.’ There was also a soy sauce brewery on the same grounds, and with so many people working there, it was a bustling place.”

These are the reflections of Takuya Fujimura, the fifth-generation head of Kikuzakari Sake Brewery. He explains that ever since he was old enough to understand, he had always been aware that he would one day take over this brewery, which has been preserved by the Fujimura family for generations since its founding in the mid-Meiji period. “Until then, I wanted to do what I loved,” he says. After graduating from high school, he left his hometown, attended a vocational school, and worked as a game designer at a game development company in Tokyo. However, he returned home when his father—the fourth-generation head of the brewery—fell ill. Three years later, following his father’s passing, he assumed the position of president of Kikuzakari Sake Brewery. It was February 2003, and he was 30 years old.

“Make a sake that the owner of a yakitori restaurant would like.”

When Mr. Fujimura took over the brewery, the world was in the midst of a boom in authentic shochu. Meanwhile, sake consumption had been on a steady decline since peaking in 1974. Kikuzakari Sake Brewery was also affected by this trend; “By the time I became president, production had fallen to 500 koku,” he recalls. How could he preserve this brewery, which had lost its former vitality? The guiding principle that helped Mr. Fujimura find his way was his grandfather’s advice: “Make sake that the owner of a yakitori restaurant prefers, rather than sake that’s highly rated by judges at tasting competitions.”

“Apparently, that was something my grandfather often told his employees back when he ran the brewery. For him, ‘good sake’ meant the kind of sake that’s enjoyed in bars—what you might call a ‘meal-accompanying sake.’ So I decided to follow in his footsteps while crafting good sake through my own interpretation,” he explains.

To that end, the first step he took was to reevaluate the brewery’s approach to sake production. At the time, Kikuzakari Sake Brewery was also producing “Sanbai Zōjōshu*”—a type of sake diluted with water and brewing alcohol to increase volume—but as soon as Mr. Fujimura assumed the presidency, he discontinued its production and shifted the brewery’s focus to “Junmai-shu,” made exclusively from rice, rice koji, and water.

“I don’t want to compete on price; I want to deliver sake that I personally believe is good.” Driven by this desire, Mr. Fujimura began to think, “I want to create a new brand that reflects my own values and preferences.”

*A brewing method introduced to address postwar rice shortages, with the aim of producing more sake using less rice. Due to the 2006 amendment to the Sake Tax Act, this method is now effectively impossible.

“Remixing” various cultures. Taxi Driver marked his breakthrough.

Mr. Fujimura has an unconventional background as a former game designer and has also been active as an amateur martial artist. He has also long been a fan of niche subcultures such as music, movies, and manga. Given this background, for the first release of the new brand, he commissioned Kei Nemoto—a manga artist he deeply admires—to name the sake, and Takashi Uechi, a graphic designer known for his many pro-wrestling T-shirt designs, to create the label design. In 2004, the junmai daiginjo sake “Denki Bosatsu” was born.

Then, the following year, “Taxi Driver”—the brand that now represents Kikuzakari Sake Brewery—was born.

“It all started when I had a drink with art director Yoshiki Takahashi in Shinjuku, Tokyo. Since Mr. Takahashi had designed the packaging for some of my favorite movies, we hit it off right away. The conversation got lively as we discussed, ‘Let’s come up with a new sake brand,’ and ‘Taxi Driver’ was one of the many ideas that came up. We felt this could actually work, so we decided on the spot to bring it to market, and Mr. Takahashi agreed to design the label.”

When brewing “Taxi Driver,” Mr. Takahashi’s request was for “a sake that tastes good when served hot.”

“Sakes from Kikuzakari Brewery are known as dining sakes characterized by a robust umami and crisp acidity. They’re naturally well-suited for serving hot. So I thought we could create a sake that met his request without needing to make any special adjustments,” says Mr. Fujimura. Reflecting Mr. Fujimura’s own preference for “rich sake with a high alcohol content,” the sake was brewed as “junmai genshu”—pressed and bottled straight from the press without adding water to adjust the flavor. The result is a robust flavor that holds its own against the striking impact of the label design created exclusively by Mr. Takahashi.

Since then, Kikuzakari Sake Brewery has continued to collaborate with various creators, releasing sake with unique names and labels as the “Jacket Buy Series.” This “remix” of sake with different fields—such as music and video games—has also attracted the interest of people who don’t usually drink sake.

Affected by the Great East Japan Earthquake. While renting space in a brewery, they transitioned to a “100% Junmai Brewery.”

Kikuzakari Sake Brewery had been expanding its customer base by focusing on the production of junmai sake while also developing products and promotional campaigns that incorporated elements from other cultural fields. However, the company suffered a major blow from the Great East Japan Earthquake that struck in March 2011. Although Kitakami City is inland and thus escaped tsunami damage, the building was struck directly by a long, intense tremor. Fortunately, both the employees and the sake that had just been brewed were unharmed, but the brewery was left half-destroyed.

“When you factor in the completely destroyed soy sauce warehouse and other structures, the scale of the damage was immense. After receiving estimates from contractors, we realized that whether we repaired the building or demolished and rebuilt it, the costs would be astronomical. As the fifth-generation head of the Fujimura family, I couldn’t let this brewery—which our family had safeguarded for generations—disappear. Even though I felt that way, it wasn’t a sum of money we could easily raise.”

Since part of the brewery was still barely usable, he managed to resume sake production with minimal equipment; however, this was merely a temporary restoration with clear limitations. About three years had passed with no clear outlook for the future when a sake brewery in the neighboring city of Hanamaki decided to go out of business, and they agreed to lend him their brewing facility.

Although it was in a neighboring city, it was only about a five-minute drive from Kikumzakari Sake Brewery, and the water quality for brewing was virtually the same. Mr. Fujimura decided to relocate, planning to conduct brewing at the rented facility while handling shipping operations at the original brewery.

Then, in the spring of 2014, Kikuzakari Sake Brewery began brewing in its new location. At the same time, the company shifted its focus to becoming a “100% Junmai Brewery,” dedicated exclusively to brewing junmai sake.

Made with koji mold and rice from Iwate

Ever since Mr. Fujimura became president, Kikuzakari Sake Brewery had primarily focused on brewing junmai sake. While the brewery did produce a limited amount of “futsūshu” (standard sake) with added distilled alcohol for local consumption, demand for this type of sake in the local market has been declining year by year. Meanwhile, nationwide, the popularity of junmai sake has been rising as consumers increasingly seek authentic products. Particularly after the earthquake, driven by a spirit of support for reconstruction, the junmai genshu sake “Taxi Driver” began selling well in the Kanto and Kansai regions.

Against this backdrop, just as we were reviewing our production system with the goal of “increasing junmai sake production,” the decision was made to relocate the brewery. Mr. Fujimura seized this opportunity to commit fully to producing only junmai sake. “At the time, there were no other breweries in Iwate Prefecture producing exclusively junmai sake, so I thought, ‘Since we’re doing this anyway, let’s be the first in Iwate,’” he recalls.

The rice used as raw material is 100 percent grown in Iwate Prefecture. What’s particularly noteworthy is that the brewery primarily uses “table rice” rather than sake-brewing rice. “We used to use sake-brewing rice and even sourced Yamada Nishiki from other prefectures, but in the end, table rice produced a flavor that better suited my preferences,” says Mr. Fujimura. For example, “Taxi Driver” is made using “Kakehashi,” a table rice variety native to Iwate Prefecture. Although it was once widely cultivated as a prefectural recommended variety, production has plummeted due to the rise of new varieties. However, Mr. Fujimura maintains, “This rice is the very source of ‘Taxi Driver’s’ flavor,” and he continues to safeguard both its quality and quantity through contract farming.

Furthermore, for “koji”—a crucial element that determines the quality of the sake—the brewery uses “Reimei Hiraizumi,” a koji mold strain developed exclusively by Iwate Prefecture. This koji mold produces moderate amounts of glucose—the source of sweetness—and is well-suited for bringing out a sake profile ideal for aging, perfectly aligning with the brewery’s vision for flavor. The junmai sake brewed in this way is released as “unfiltered genshu”—without any dilution or filtration—to deliver its flavor directly to the consumer. This robust, unfiltered character—straight from the press—has become a defining feature of Kikuzakari Shuzo’s identity, captivating sake enthusiasts across the nation.

Shiki Brewing’s new brewery is complete. Back to the place where it all began.

Kikuzakari Sake Brewery’s “brewing in a rented facility” continued for about 10 years.

“We are the only sake brewery remaining in Kitakami City. Although we temporarily relocated to neighboring Hanamaki City, we always wanted to return to our founding location,” said Mr. Fujimura. However, the disaster-damaged brewery had undergone repeated expansions and renovations, resulting in a complex structure that made restoration difficult. Furthermore, in 2021, the roof collapsed due to the Fukushima Offshore Earthquake and heavy snowfall, damaging the boiler used for bottle washing and pasteurization.

Even so, Mr. Fujimura refused to give up on “rebuilding at the founding site.” Utilizing crowdfunding, he constructed a new brewery and an office/warehouse on the company’s headquarters grounds. In the summer of 2024, he resumed sake brewing in Kitakami. “We were able to return here in the milestone year of our 130th anniversary,” Mr. Fujimura said with a smile.

The new brewery is equipped with state-of-the-art facilities, enabling year-round brewing across all four seasons. They also introduced temperature-controlled thermal tanks, making it possible to handle the entire process—from mashing to bottling—within this single facility.

Meanwhile, for the pressing process—which separates the mash (moromi) into sake and sake lees—they adopted the “Sase-style” press. The Sase-style method involves stacking bags of mash inside a vat and applying pressure from above to extract the liquid. Although it involves the labor-intensive steps of bagging and stacking, the slow, gentle pressing—without excessive force—is said to result in a mellow sake with a smooth mouthfeel.

One reason for choosing the Sase method—which is by no means efficient—is that they had been using it for pressing during the 10 years they rented space at another brewery. “The press at the brewery we were renting was a Sase-style model manufactured in the Showa 30s,” says Mr. Fujimura. “It took at least three days, and sometimes as long as a week, to press a single tank of mash.” The fact that pressing takes time means the sake is exposed to air for that duration, accelerating oxidation. While this method is unsuitable for producing fresh, fruity sake, it proved effective for crafting sake with rich umami flavors suited for aging or serving hot. Furthermore, the refined sediment produced by the Sase-style pressing adds depth to the flavor, becoming one of Kikumori’s defining characteristics.

“Our brewery has always been known for sake with a robust flavor, and I believe the Sase-style pressing has further solidified that direction. “The Sase-style press at our brewery is state-of-the-art, so the pressing itself takes about a day. However, we press on the weekend and bottle the sake at the start of the week. By deliberately letting it sit for a few days, we ensure the flavor remains unchanged from before, while at the same time, the physical labor involved in tasks like transferring the sake has been reduced, making the process much more efficient.”

Bringing the unique flavors of this brewery to the rest of Japan and the world

“Now that our new brewery is complete, we’ll finally be able to stabilize our production system,” says Mr. Fujimura with high hopes. While local consumption once accounted for 90 percent of sales, out-of-prefecture sales now make up 70 percent. Sales in Osaka, in particular, account for more than half of the total. “It seems that people in the Kansai region tend to prefer sake with a robust umami flavor and a clean finish,” he explains. In recent years, inquiries from overseas have also increased, and the brewery has secured export deals to the United States, Italy, and New Zealand.

At the same time, he also hopes to expand his customer base in the Kanto region, particularly in Tokyo.

“To achieve that, I believe the key challenge is finding the right match with liquor stores and authorized dealers. I want to find partners who truly understand the direction of our sake-making and can convey that to customers in their own words, rather than just parroting our message. That’s one of my goals for the future,”

says Mr. Fujimura. While exploring new connections with liquor stores in the Kanto region, he is carefully nurturing relationships with stores and fans with whom he already has ties.

Bringing the sake that only this brewery can produce from Iwate to all corners of Japan—and to the world. Having made a fresh start from its “origins” at the founding site, Kikumori’s sake brewing is now heading into its next chapter.

The post Drawing strength from tradition and innovation, they remain committed to producing “100% Junmai Sake.” Takuya Fujimura of Kikuzakari Sake Brewery / Kitakami City, Iwate Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

A single glass of sake can sometimes make the time spent with loved ones even more meaningful. Rihaku Brewery has been sharing these special moments with the world from Shimane. Although it is a long-established brewery with a history spanning over 140 years, its journey has always been marked by a spirit of challenge. The company expanded its sales channels back when overseas expansion was still rare, and in recent years, it has been pushing the boundaries of sake by brewing with flower yeast and developing products tailored to the times, thereby broadening the possibilities of sake. At the core of it all lies a consistent philosophy: “Creating joyful moments through sake.”

Dedicated solely to sake brewing in the land where the “Myth of Sake Brewing in Izumo” has been passed down through the ages

Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture. In this region, where a long-standing culture of sake brewing thrives, the “Izumo Sake Brewing Myth”—which tells of the gods brewing sake—has been passed down through the generations. In this land, we have continued to brew rich, full-bodied sake deeply rooted in the local terroir, using high-quality water and rice primarily grown in Shimane Prefecture. Today, the brewery uses sake-brewing rice for all of its in-house brands, focusing on the quality of the rice used in the brewing process.

Moving forward with the changing times

The company was founded in 1882. During the Meiji era—when feudal society came to an end and Japan began adopting Western culture—Takujiro Tanaka began brewing sake under the trade name “Tanaka Honten.” At that time, unlike today’s brand-based approach, it was a small-scale business where local residents would bring their own drinking vessels to purchase sake. As the Taisho era gave way to the Showa era, the distribution of sake began to be standardized nationwide, and breweries started promoting their own unique brands. It was at this time that Tanaka Honten adopted the brand name “Rihaku.” The name was chosen by Reijirō Wakatsuki, a native of Matsue City who later served as Prime Minister of Japan. An avid fan of Tanaka Honten’s sake, Wakatsuki named it “Rihaku”—after the Tang Dynasty poet from China—with the hope that it would “be a sake cherished across the ages.”

After the war, against the backdrop of rising demand for sake, the company grew primarily by supplying unblended sake to major manufacturers in bulk (“oke-uri”), and in 1950, it was incorporated as “Tanaka Shuzo.” In the 1970s, at a time when mass production was still the norm, Tanaka Shuzo shifted its focus from “quantity to quality.” The company began full-scale development of its own brand, “Rihaku,” using only rice suitable for sake brewing and pursuing the ultimate in flavor. Through repeated trial and error, they improved quality, eventually earning recognition—including numerous awards—and laid the foundation that continues to this day.

The company then began exporting in the 1980s. Although exporting sake was still rare at the time, the previous head of the family aimed to spread sake culture overseas. Today, 40% of its production is exported to 14 countries, primarily the United States. As the popularity of its flagship product, “Rihaku,” grew, the company changed its name in 1993 from “Tanaka Shuzo”—which bore the representative’s surname—to “Rihaku Shuzo.”

With a pioneering spirit, “passing on sake to the next generation”

The current fifth-generation head of Rihaku Brewery is Yuichiro Tanaka, who studied brewing science at Tokyo University of Agriculture and took over the family business after apprenticing at a specialty shop for local sake in Tokyo.

Mr. Tanaka joined the family business in 2003. At that time, the sake industry was undergoing a major turning point. In addition to market shifts caused by the shochu boom, the artisans who had long supported sake brewing were rapidly aging. Rihaku Sake Brewery was no exception. Sensing that “if things continued this way, we would no longer be able to brew sake,” Mr. Tanaka decided to overhaul the company’s production system, which had been centered around the head brewer. He took the bold step of creating a system that would ensure stable sake production.

Introducing modern equipment to pass on the skills of the “Izumo Toji” to future generations

The quality of Rihaku Sake Brewery is underpinned by the expertise of the Izumo master brewers. Through meticulous koji production and a method of slow fermentation at low temperatures, they have consistently produced sake with high acidity and a robust flavor. However, this technique relied heavily on experience and intuition. To address this, Mr. Tanaka pushed forward with digitizing the production process and investing in equipment, enabling the management of fermentation conditions—such as status, temperature, and duration—through numerical data. He refined the process into a reproducible system and established it as the “Rihaku Brewery Method.”

At the same time, not everything is left to machines. For critical processes such as koji production, the brewery places great importance on manual labor, shifting from a approach where “humans control the koji” to one where “humans prepare an environment conducive to the koji’s activity.” By closely monitoring temperature and humidity and making adjustments based on the koji’s condition, they bring out its full potential. Advances in technology and equipment have made the kind of meticulous management that was once difficult possible, leading to stable quality and further improvement.

In recent years, climate change has made the quality of rice more variable. As a result, they strive to make improvements every year while monitoring its condition. “There’s no end to the adjustments,” he says. “To deliver good sake, we will continue to conduct repeated analyses,” showing that he is not content with the status quo.

Creating a New Identity Using Flower Yeast

Until Mr. Tanaka returned to the brewery, they had been producing classic-style sake by combining sake rice varieties such as “Gohyakumangoku” and “Yamada Nishiki” with “No. 9 yeast,” which creates a crisp, clean flavor. This method has long been used to consistently produce high-quality sake thanks to the expertise of the Izumo master brewers.

At the same time, Mr. Tanaka took on the challenge of creating a new combination using the “Omachi” sake rice variety and “flower yeast.” “Flower yeast” refers to sake yeast that has been successfully isolated and cultured from flowers found in nature. While the character of the sake varies depending on the type of flower used, it is said to be particularly effective at producing a floral ginjo aroma and fruity flavors, making it a popular choice for crafting distinctive sakes. Drawing on his experience researching flower yeast during his university days, he set out to create sake in a style distinct from traditional methods.

“I wanted to create a new flavor unique to ‘Rihaku Sake Brewery’—one that differs from the techniques of the Izumo master brewers,” he explained. With this vision in mind, he selected his ingredients to achieve a balance of a robust body with a refreshing aroma and light acidity. The elegant flavor has been well-received by women and those new to sake.

Such initiatives are part of the challenge to preserve tradition. It is precisely this attitude—taking a step forward without fear of change—that serves as the driving force to carry sake culture into the next era.

Providing a pleasant experience through sake

Japan’s drinking culture began as a sacred “ritual connecting the gods and people” rooted in Shinto rituals, and has evolved uniquely as a setting for enjoying the seasonal beauty of nature—flowers, birds, the wind, and the moon—as well as for social interaction. Within this culture, sake has always been a part of daily life, not merely as a luxury item, but as a force that connects people.

“What we’re making isn’t just sake—it’s an ‘oasis’ that enriches people’s time,” says Mr. Tanaka. His philosophy is that sake should not take center stage, but rather serve as an element that enhances conversation and meals.

Sake is, after all, merely a “catalyst.” Its presence sparks conversation and makes meals more enjoyable. He wants to support such moments. To that end, he prioritizes a flavor profile that balances well with food. He aims to create sake that never grows tiresome and naturally invites you to take another sip.

Our Commitment to Preserving Sake Culture Accurately

At Rihaku Sake Brewery, guided by the philosophy of “promoting sake culture and passing it on correctly to future generations,” we use sake-brewing rice in all of our sake. Sake-brewing rice refers to rice that has been selectively bred to be suitable for brewing Japanese sake. Although it is more expensive, it produces fewer off-flavors and makes it easier to achieve a clean taste that pairs well with meals.

Additionally, the brewery uses water from one local well and three wells on its premises; since all are part of the same water system, they are all utilized in the brewing process. The soft mouthfeel and clean finish make the sake easy to drink and support its appeal as a meal-accompanying sake.

Bringing richness to daily life with a tireless spirit of challenge

To preserve tradition,Rihaku Sake Brewery’s quest for innovation never stops.

In 2024, the company began selling its sake in pouches. It is highly unusual for a regional sake brewery to handle everything from development to manufacturing in-house, making this a groundbreaking approach for the industry. “Because they’re lightweight and easy to carry, our pouches are being chosen for new occasions such as outdoor activities and watching sports. They’re also increasingly popular as souvenirs among international visitors.” The company says it aims to begin selling unpasteurized sake in pouches in the future.

At the heart of these efforts is the desire for people to share pleasant moments together, transcending national and cultural boundaries. Rihaku Sake Brewery will continue to deliver the richness that each cup of sake brings to the world.

The post Preserving tradition and sharing the charm of sake with the world: Yuichiro Tanaka, 5th-generation head of “Rihaku Sake Brewery” first appeared on NIHONMONO.

“Sharaku,” which has gained popularity among local sake enthusiasts nationwide for its high quality, and “Aizu Miyaizumi,” which has been beloved locally since the brewery’s founding. “Miyaizumi Meijo” continues to pursue its ideal of sake brewing through these two brands. Amid abundant water sources and a climate ideal for sake brewing, fourth-generation brewery owner Yoshihiro (the older brother, pictured right) and Managing Director Yamato (the younger brother, pictured left) take on the challenge with a passionate desire to “create even better sake.” While meticulously monitoring the ever-changing temperature, humidity, and aromas within the brewery to refine the quality of their sake, the team—led by the Miyamori brothers—works as one to craft their sake.

A sake brewery in Aizu, a region renowned for its sake, that has carried on a 400-year history

Aizu-Wakamatsu City is one of the leading sake-producing regions in the Tohoku region. The Aizu Basin, surrounded on all sides by mountains, experiences significant seasonal temperature fluctuations. With cold winters that keep bacteria at bay, it is blessed with a climate and environment ideally suited for sake brewing. Furthermore, having flourished as a castle town, the area has a long history dating back to the Edo period, when numerous sake breweries were established and competed to refine their brewing techniques.

Located near the famous Tsuruga Castle, the charming brewery “Miyaizumi Meijo” was founded in 1955 (Showa 30). While there are many breweries with hundreds of years of history, this one might seem relatively new—but that is not the case. Miyaizumi Meijo is a brewery that branched off from “Hanaharu Shuzo,” one of the oldest and most prestigious breweries in Aizu-Wakamatsu, founded in 1718 (Kyōhō 3). Although its history as a company is short, it carries on a 400-year tradition of sake brewing.

The exterior, which blends seamlessly into the atmospheric streetscape of this castle town, is designated as a historic landmark, and the brewery grounds themselves are filled with charming spaces. Although it was originally a small facility, it has taken on its current form through a series of expansions. The varying heights of the roofs and the different materials used for the walls add to its unique character, giving the building a rich variety of expressions.

As the fourth-generation head, he is taking on the challenge of revitalizing the brewery and pioneering new brewing methods

The older brother, Yoshihiro, and the younger brother, Yamato, have an unusual background: after graduating from college, they both worked as systems engineers (SEs). In 2002, Yoshihiro quit his job as an SE and returned to Fukushima to turn around the family business, Miyaizumi Meijo. He was 26 years old at the time.

“We completely reevaluated our sake-making methods and production environment from scratch,” Yoshihiro recalls. “Although we had won gold medals several times at the National New Sake Competition, the techniques we’d honed for our competition entries weren’t being applied to our other sakes at all. So I became increasingly determined to apply the knowledge gained from making those competition sakes to our regular retail products and revitalize our lineup.”

At the time, the president was responsible for management, while the head brewer handled production. However, Yoshihiro believed that “if the business leader were also involved in the brewing process, we could get closer to our ideal flavor.” He traveled around the country visiting breweries he believed produced high-quality sake, incorporating their excellent techniques as he pursued a new flavor profile.

The bond between brothers has brought a breath of fresh air to the sake brewery

After working as a systems engineer, Yamato became a secretary to a member of the Diet. One day, his older brother Yoshihiro—who had already returned to their family home—asked him, “Yamato, why don’t we make sake together?” “I’d always wanted to work with my brother someday, so I didn’t hesitate for a moment,” Yamato says with a beaming smile.

“I wanted to produce sake of a consistently high standard, and as the number of stone vats was gradually increasing, I felt I needed my younger brother’s help to improve the quality of our local brand, ‘Aizu Miyaizumi,’” says Yoshihiro. From that point on, a new chapter in sake brewing centered around the brothers began.

In recent years, Yoshihiro has primarily been in charge of brewing “Sharaku,” while Yamato has focused on “Aizu Miyaizumi,” and together they continue to pursue their ideals through these two brands.

Reviving “Sharaku,” Which Once Nearly Disappeared, to Reform the Warehouse

Originally, the “Sharaku” brand belonged to Higashiyama Shuzo, a brewery that traced its roots back to Miyamori Bunjiro Shoten—the original main branch of the Miyamori Shuzo family. Although it was popular among the people of Aizu, Higashiyama Shuzo regrettably went out of business in 2009. Consequently, Miyaizumi Meijo, which shares the same origins, took over the “Sharaku” brand.

“Although we took over the ‘Sharaku’ brand, I wanted to create a sake that would be recognized nationwide, so I poured the sake-making expertise I had cultivated over the years into crafting a new sake,” says Yoshihiro. As a result, “Sharaku”—whose history had once nearly come to an end—has grown into a sake that enjoys nationwide popularity. In 2014, at the “SAKE COMPETITION”—an event that determines Japan’s most delicious commercially available sake—it won first place in both the Junmai and Junmai Ginjo categories, proving its exceptional quality to the nation. Since then, the brewery has continued to strive for even higher quality, and “Sharaku” has become such a renowned sake that it is now a regular gold medal winner at various competitions.

“Aizu Miyaizumi”: Continuing to Take on Technical Challenges

“Aizu Miyaizumi” primarily ships its products within Fukushima Prefecture. Considered a premium sake on par with “Sharaku” in terms of flavor and quality, it achieved remarkable success in 2018 by winning first place nationwide in the Junmai category at the “SAKE COMPETITION” and earning numerous awards at international sake competitions, thereby gaining national attention. Driven by a single-minded desire to “cherish the brand that has been safeguarded by generations of brewers,” the brewery has consistently raised the bar for brewing quality.

“Aizu Miyaizumi will continue to pursue technical challenges as we strive to create the ideal sake,” says Mr. Yamato. The brewery is not content merely to “preserve tradition”; its pursuit of new brewing innovations knows no bounds. Using sake-brewing rice varieties developed by Fukushima Prefecture—such as “Yume no Ka” and “Fuku no Ka”—as well as “Wataribune No. 2,” “Yamada Ho,” “Yamasake No. 4,” and “Oyama Nishiki,” the brewery has produced a diverse range of sakes. “There are still many brewing styles and techniques I’d like to try in the future,” Mr. Yamato says with a delighted smile.

Uncompromising Sake Brewing with High-Quality Water and Rice

The brewery is highly regarded not only for the quality of its sake but also for its strict hygiene standards. Beautifully polished wooden corridors, imposing tanks, and koji quietly maturing over time. While many breweries store their sake at room temperature or in tanks, Miyasumi Meijo strictly adheres to immediate bottling after pressing and refrigerated storage of the entire batch in bottles to prevent oxidation from air exposure and deterioration at room temperature.

“Starting with the process of drawing groundwater to create the brewing water used throughout every stage of sake production—from managing raw materials and the moromi (fermenting mash), to pressing (the process of separating the finished moromi into sake and lees), storage, and shipping—we make no compromises in the work and environment necessary to improve the quality of our sake,” says Mr. Yamato.

Aiming for High-Quality Sake Through Data Management and Accumulation

Inside the brewery, there is a space that exudes a unique atmosphere, much like a laboratory. In the “Analysis Room,” lined with various analytical instruments, there were analyzers capable of measuring data—such as alcohol content, acidity, and Sake Meter Value (sweetness)—necessary for assessing the fermentation progress of the mash before it becomes raw sake.

Both Mr. Yoshihiro and Mr. Yamato majored in science in college, so they are meticulous about collecting data. This is to ensure that they can verify their findings at any time. Believing that “good sake can only be achieved through accumulated experience,” they manage all data related to their research aimed at further advancing sake brewing, as well as data on every batch of sake they actually produce. Through this approach, Miyaizumi Meijo pursues the production of delicious, high-quality sake at the highest possible standards.

With our sights set on the world, we’ll keep taking on new challenges while having fun.

“Our brewery has now reached the ideal scale,” says Yoshihiro with a smile. “We used to be a small brewery that didn’t even produce enough to fill 10 tanks, but now we’re making 150 tanks’ worth. A brewery of about 2,000 koku is ideal because we can keep a close eye on everything.” He goes on to share his new dream: “Going forward, we want to deliver sake that people around the world—not just in Japan—will find delicious, so we’re also considering venturing into exports. I hope our sake will be discovered by people all over the world.”

“Working alongside my brother is incredibly fulfilling,” says Yamato, his eyes sparkling. “I look forward to exploring the exciting world that lies ahead together with my brother, the president.” He reaffirms his resolve: “As the population continues to decline and the number of drinkers shrinks, I believe it’s crucial to reach out to the world. I want to keep taking on new challenges so that people will say, ‘Miyaizumi is doing something fascinating again.’”

As long as these positive challenges continue, the future of Miyaizumi Meijo looks set to become even more exciting. Just imagining what kind of sake they’ll create makes my heart race.

The post Preserving tradition while continuing to take on new challenges. Yoshihiro and Yamato Miyamori of “Miyaizumi Meijo,” who captivate customers with two brands that linger in the heart and memory / Aizuwakamatsu City, Fukushima Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Idejōzōten, a long-established sake brewery with over 300 years of history dating back to the Edo period. Nestled at the northern foot of Mount Fuji, on the shores of Lake Kawaguchi, this brewery has continued making sake for generations. In recent years, it has embarked on a new venture: crafting its own unique whiskey. We spoke with the next-generation representative about his vision for preserving the taste of their traditional sake while embracing this new challenge, and about the future of this venerable brewery.

A Brewery by the Lake

Lake Kawaguchi, one of the Fuji Five Lakes at the foot of Mount Fuji, attracts many tourists every year. Nearby stands the long-established brewery “Ide Brewery,” which has been in operation since the mid-Edo period, over 300 years ago. We spoke with Takaoshi Ide, the 22nd-generation owner, who is currently involved in brewing and selling sake, and now also in the new venture of whisky production.

A brewery that began with soy sauce production

The origins of “Ide Brewery” date back to around 1700. Located on the northern foothills of Mount Fuji, this region boasts abundant spring and groundwater. However, the absence of rivers and the hard bedrock made digging irrigation channels difficult. Consequently, the land was unsuitable for supplying water to rice paddies and thus not ideal for growing rice, the key ingredient for sake.Conversely, soybean cultivation using rainwater flourished. Consequently, the 11th generation owner, Yogoemon Ide, opened a brewery to begin brewing soy sauce using these soybeans. Around 1850, the 16th generation owner, Yogoemon Ide, recognized the cool climate at an elevation of 850 meters and the abundant spring water flowing from Mount Fuji.He began sourcing rice from regions within Yamanashi Prefecture where rice cultivation was thriving and started brewing sake. This marked the beginning of sake production at Ide Brewery.

While it’s difficult to source all ingredients solely from rice grown in the northern foothills region, which has few paddy fields, the brewery now procures rice from various farmers nationwide, primarily within Yamanashi Prefecture. However, driven by the desire to “create sake that becomes a source of pride for local people,” they have recently expanded their offerings to include brands like the special junmai sake “Hokuroku,” made using “Tamasakae” rice from the northern foothills of Mount Fuji.However, no matter how carefully suppliers are selected, some variation in rice quality based on the year and region is unavoidable. “I believe a key technical point in sake brewing is how to minimize impact on the product and effectively deliver the brewery’s signature taste, the consistent flavor, to consumers,” said Ushun, revealing confidence in his company’s techniques.

Sake Pride of Ide Brewery

With “using Fuji Mountain spring water” as the overarching concept, Ushun states, “We strive to create pure sake that upholds that image.” The representative brand of Ide Brewery is “Kai no Kaiun” (Fortune of Kai). Around 1850, when sake brewing began, it coincided with the marriage of Princess Kazunomiya.Inspired by this, the sake developed with the wish “for fortune to open and lead to happiness” was named “Kaiun” (Good Fortune). Later, in 1985, Kaiun, beloved by people for many years, was renamed Kai no Kaiun to emphasize its regional identity as a Yamanashi brewery, and it continues to be brewed today. Its taste is smooth on the palate with a slightly dry flavor.It finishes cleanly, making it the perfect accompaniment to a meal.

Kai no Kaiun: Crisp and Unwavering

The quality of Iide Brewery’s sake is underpinned by the “Fuji Water” flowing directly beneath the brewery. This underground water, drawn from a point at approximately 1,100 meters above sea level, takes 80 years to pass through the volcanic layers of Mount Fuji. It is then naturally filtered through basalt layers and other formations, resulting in a refined, crystal-clear softness. This water is the very core of the “clean sake quality” the brewery strives for.”Refreshing and clean.” This fundamental principle remains unwavering. The pleasant sharpness of their flagship brand, “Kai no Kaiun,” harmonizes with the transparency of Fuji’s water, enhancing its appeal as a sake to enjoy with meals.

For fermentation, stable association-type yeast is used, prioritizing the straightforward expression of the ingredients’ flavors while minimizing off-flavors. Among these steps, Mr. Ushun emphasizes the “particularly crucial” practice of pasteurization immediately after pressing. Minimizing exposure to air and meticulous management to stabilize the sake are indispensable.After pasteurization, the sake is stored quietly in an environment with minimal temperature fluctuations. Meanwhile, the unpasteurized sake is kept year-round in refrigerators maintained below 0°C. This meticulous management, dedicated to preserving the delicate flavor, creates a sake of unwavering purity.

“Raw Unpasteurized Sake” You Can Only Taste Here

The shop “Sakaboushi,” attached to the brewery, offers a lineup including sake and foods made using sake lees, a byproduct of the brewing process. Additionally, since April 2010, tours of the brewery have been available to the general public.They also offer a limited-edition unpasteurized sake, “Special Junmai Nama Genshu ‘Kakoi’,” available only to visitors. During sake brewing, rice is fermented to produce alcohol. The liquid pressed from the mash (moromi), a mixture of fermented rice and sake, is called nama genshu.Most commercially distributed sake undergoes pasteurization (hi-ire) for sterilization and dilution with water to adjust alcohol content at this stage. However, Special Junmai Nama Genshu “Kakoi” skips these processes entirely. Experience the unadulterated alcohol sensation and fragrant rice flavor of “pressed and served as is.” Savor its smooth taste and the faint lingering ginjo aroma.

A New Challenge: Launching the “Fuji North Foot Distillery”

In July 2020, Ide Brewery embarked on a new challenge, beginning whisky production under the brand name “Fuji North Foot Distillery.” Globally, alcoholic beverages are broadly categorized into “brewed spirits,” made by fermenting raw materials like rice or barley, and “distilled spirits,” created by heating the fermented liquid, vaporizing it, cooling it, and condensing it back into liquid form.For whisky specifically, the distilled base spirit must undergo “aging” – long-term storage in wooden casks. For Ide Brewery, which had previously focused solely on brewing, the processes of “distillation” and “aging” were entirely new territory.

“We had knowledge and hands-on experience with fermentation, but distillation and aging were completely unknown to us. We truly started from scratch,”

“It took several years to finally establish our own unique production methods, but there’s still so much to learn,” Ushun shares, reflecting on the challenges. While his desire to make distilled spirits grew stronger, he hesitated about the significant capital investment required to start whisky production. What ultimately pushed him forward was the noticeable increase in inbound demand in recent years.Even if foreign visitors to the brewery primarily came for sake, wouldn’t they be even happier if the lineup included a whiskey originating overseas? It was this thought that led him to decide to take the plunge into whiskey production.

Whiskey made from rice by a sake brewery

“Japanese whiskey is currently popular worldwide. I believe one factor is its drinkability. While maintaining that, I want to express the unique character of Ide Brewery.”

Many of the aging barrels used for Japanese whiskey are made from Mizunara oak, which imparts an elegant, sweet aroma and a subtle sweetness to the whiskey. Beyond this “drinkability,” Ide Brewery’s whiskey incorporates an extra layer of craftsmanship. One example is using “sake yeast” for fermentation, instead of the typical whiskey yeast.Another is the use of rice, the same base ingredient as sake, instead of the more common corn, rye, or wheat. This adds a distinct sweetness derived from the rice, resulting in a whisky with a deeper, smoother mouthfeel. Behind these meticulous choices lies the desire to “create a whisky that only we can make.””A rice-based whiskey made by a sake brewery. I believe it possesses a unique character you won’t find elsewhere,” states Ushun proudly. Currently, they offer two products: the whiskey ‘Taijukai’, made with the aforementioned sake yeast and rice, and the ‘Fuji Kitakoku Distillery Highball’, which incorporates carbonated water and spring water to further enhance its “drinkability”.

“This product was created to widely announce our new venture: ‘Ide Jozoten, known for making sake, has started making whisky.’ We’re excited to see how the market responds.”

Creating an everyday sake that never gets old

Mr. Ushun, who will lead Ide Brewery as its 22nd-generation head in the future, shared his vision: “I want to continue making sake without straying from the core characteristics that define Ide Brewery’s current flavor profile: ‘refreshing clarity’ and ‘elegant purity.'” He also expressed his enthusiasm for focusing on brewing “Kai no Kaiun,” a standard sake.”While ‘special designation sake’ tends to draw attention across Japan these days, I also want to properly craft ‘ordinary sake,’ which has been deeply rooted in daily life for generations.”

Long before the “Sake Production and Quality Indication Standards” were established, “Kai no Kaiun” has been brewed without altering its flavor since 1850. It represents the unwavering identity of Ide Brewery. “It may not be flashy, but it has been cherished as a companion for ‘ordinary’ moments, like family meals at the daily dinner table. I hope it continues to be loved by people without ever growing tiresome.”There is an irreplaceable happiness in being able to be “ordinary,” in being able to live everyday life. The sentiment poured into “Kai no Kaiun” connects the history and spirit of Ide Brewery.

The Future of Ide Brewery

“Sake, representing Japanese culture, will continue to attract global attention given recent inbound demand. That’s precisely why I believe there’s ample need to keep producing ‘Kai no Kaiun,’ which connects time-honored traditions to the present. Building on this strong foundation, we aim to develop products like whiskey that meet modern needs. Times keep changing, after all.”

Ide Brewery’s sake-making journey began with soy sauce production, rooted in observing the region’s unique characteristics and blessings. Moving forward, the brewery will remain deeply connected to the community, steadfastly preserving its inherited flavors while flexibly adapting to changing times and embracing new challenges.

The post Traditional Sake and Innovative Whiskey Crafted with Fuji Spring Water: “Ide Brewery” / Minamitsuru District, Fujikawaguchiko Town, Yamanashi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Matsuya Sake Brewing Company is located in Fujioka City in southwestern Gunma Prefecture, bordering on Saitama Prefecture. The sake “Ruka,” which uses water from the Kannagawa and Ayukawa Rivers that gushes from the Mikabo Sankei mountain range, which is ideal for sake brewing, is attracting attention as an original sake created by the enthusiasm of the sixth generation brewer, Hiroyuki Matsubara, who is also the toji, the president of the company.

The Sixth Generation Envisions a New Gunma Sake

Fujioka City in Gunma Prefecture has a mild climate with mountainous terrain in the west and the Kanto Plain in the east. Matsuya Sake Brewery, which has been producing sake here since 1951, was originally founded as a rice wholesaler in Toyama Prefecture during the Edo period and began brewing sake in the late Meiji era. The brewery later moved to Fujioka City in Gunma Prefecture, which is close to the large market of Tokyo and blessed with a natural environment, and has been making sake that is suited to the locality of Gunma. After the previous master brewer retired due to old age, Hiroyuki Matsubara, the sixth generation brewer and president of the company, became the master brewer himself and has been involved in production ever since. With a production of only 250 koku, the small brewery produces sake that is made by hand in the traditional way, with a modern approach that is in tune with the times, offering a new kind of Gunma sake.

Returning to his hometown to fulfill the role of the eldest son, the sixth generation

Born and raised in a sake brewery, Matsubara was not interested in sake making as a child, and after graduating from college, he began working for a street brand to pursue a career in fashion. He decided to return to his parents’ home and take over the family brewery.

He said, “At one time I ran away from home to do something different from the family business, but since I am the eldest son, I decided to take over the family business. I had a sense of fulfillment from having done what I loved in the outside world, so I honestly thought I would return to my parents’ house and do my best.

At the time, however, we were in the midst of the shochu boom. The brewery mainly produced sake for celebratory occasions such as elections and weddings, but Mr. Matsubara felt that this alone would eventually make it difficult to run the business. However, he felt that this would eventually become too difficult to manage. Since he was taking over the brewery, he wanted to make sake that would be sold at restaurants, and he began to think about creating his own original sake at the brewery.

I want to make Gunma sake that fits the times.

Mr. Matsubara joined Matsuya Sake Brewery and began learning sake brewing from scratch at the brewery. At the same time, in order to create his own original sake, he went to study at the “Red Brick Sake Brewery” in Oji, Tokyo (now the National Institute of Sake Brewing), which has contributed to the development of sake brewing in Japan, and learned from senior brewers at Gunma Prefecture’s technical exchange meetings.

At the time, the generation older than myself favored dry sake, and many of the breweries around us were producing it. However, as the number of senior brewers I met at the engineer exchange meetings and the number of brewers of the same younger generation as myself increased, the trend of sake preferred in the market started to change. The fruity, aromatic sake that I like is getting more attention.

In his search for sake that suited the times, he went to restaurants recommended by a toji he respected, read books, and actively sought advice. He was advised that “marketing is important, but at the end of the day, your own feelings are important,” and he decided to create a fruity, fresh sake that was becoming popular and had a flavor he wanted to drink.

Deciding on a Brand Name from a Child’s Name Candidate

Mr. Matsubara decided that if he was going to make his own original sake, he wanted it to be fragrant and fruity, close to the kind of sake he had always dreamed of making. He imagined the taste of sake like “Jyushiyo” and “Houbiden,” which he had been shocked by when he drank them, and through a process of trial and error, he came up with the ideal name for the sake. When he brought the sake to the distributor, he was advised by the Matsuya Brewery to think carefully about branding if it was to be a new brand.

At the time, I had just had a baby, and I was thinking of a name for my child, and I found a name that fit the image of the sake I wanted to make, “Nagare Shine. We named our new sake brand “Ryu-ki”.

In addition to the existing brands “Tosei” and “Hiraijo,” the new brand name “Nagareki” has been added to the existing brands, and the brewery has launched its own brand. The words on the “Ryuki” label were written thousands of times by Mr. Matsubara himself, he says.

Sake brewing that takes advantage of the quality of the water

When making Nagareki, Mr. Matsubara’s first image was of a sake that would be enjoyed for its aroma. However, the sake produced in Fujioka did not have as much of an aroma as he had expected. The sake made in Fujioka, however, does not have as much aroma as one might expect, and yet it has a slightly citrusy, acidic flavor, he says.

We dig a well in the groundwater of the Kannryu and Ayukawa Rivers and use it as brewing water,” he said. The water is very soft, with a German hardness of about 6. For rice, we use Yamada-Nishiki and other sake rice suitable for our brewery, such as Niigata’s Gohyakumangoku.

At first, he had a hard time producing the sake he envisioned. As he repeatedly experimented with different types of rice and yeast and their compatibility with water based on various data, he gradually began to see changes in the taste of his sake. It was not the fragrant, fruity sake that he wanted to make, but he began to see the characteristics of Fujioka, a sake with a subdued aroma and a slightly citrus-like acidity that the region produced. I am now thinking of making “Ryuki” in a way that makes the most of this character.

Sake made with the same routine

Matsuya Brewery is a small brewery with only five employees, including part-time workers. Because of the small number of employees, the brewery takes a longer production period, and they are conscious of following the same routine every year to keep the rhythm of the brewing process.

Although we have a small number of employees, we produce sake in small batches, sticking to traditional handmade methods in order to produce higher quality sake. In particular, the pressing process is carried out slowly and under pressure using an old-fashioned machine that has been handed down from generation to generation, resulting in a clean and gentle sake quality.

The traditional technique of koji making, which easily affects the flavor of sake, is employed. Steamed sake rice is exposed outdoors and exposed to wind to evaporate the moisture, while controlling the temperature to the desired level. In order to allow the fermentation of unrefined sake to proceed slowly at low temperatures, the rice is pounded for more than 50 hours to allow the mycelium to reach the center of the rice, producing a clean koji that matches the quality of the sake.

He began to think about pursuing refined sake by using traditional koji making that is not influenced by trends, and by changing the flavor of the sake by combining the two.

Creating sake that can be handled by restaurants

In branding Ryuki, Mr. Matsubara says that he had a strong desire for the sake to be sold in restaurants. He also tried a different approach to the sales of sake than what the brewery had been doing until now.

We decided to limit the distribution of “Ryuki” to only those dealers who are willing to sell it to us. We chose only those distributors who were willing to sell our sake, and we are still doing business with them today.

Limited distribution has the advantage of increasing the value of the brand and differentiating it. However, it also has the disadvantage of not being able to market the product unless the distributors approve of it.

When Ryuki was just starting out, there were few dealers who would accept his brand, and he was sometimes turned away, told to “go study more. There was even a distributor who finally accepted our brand after three years of trying,” says Matsubara.

Ryuki,” a brand created with his own ingenuity

Nagare Kiki” was created with the image of a fresh, fruity flavor that would flow and shine in the mouth, and it is now turning out to be exactly what the name implies.

There are still things I need to work on, but after 17 years of making “Ryu-Kiki,” I think I’ve gotten about 50% closer to what I’m aiming for,” he said. I think I am getting better and better, but in order to raise it another 50 percent, I think I need more experience, more ideas, and more effort than I am capable of at the moment.

Two years after taking over the Matsuya Brewery, he launched his own brand, Ryuki, which became popular mainly among restaurants, just as Mr. Matsubara had hoped, and is now gaining fans among the general public as well. The experience of creating an original brand from scratch, which Mr. Matsubara has been dealing with ever since he became toji, has had a positive impact on the other sake that Matsuya Brewery has been making for many years, and the future of this small brewery is beginning to look brighter.

The post We want to create an original brand. Matsuya Sake Brewery’s passion for “Ryuki” / Fujioka City, Gunma Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Sugihara Sake Brewery, the smallest sake brewery in Japan

The “smallest sake brewery in Japan” is located in Ibi-gun, Gifu Prefecture. The company was founded in 1892 and produced only 80 koku in fiscal year 2021, which translates to only 8,000 bottles. In fiscal year 2021, the company produced a mere 80 koku, or 8,000 bottles per day. The sake produced here, “Ibi,” has become a rare and difficult-to-find sake, partly due to the absolute small amount that is distributed. The brewery is headed by Keiki Sugihara, the fifth-generation head brewer and toji (master brewer) of the brewery. In fact, until just 15 years ago, he was a complete amateur, not even knowing what sake rice was.

Why don’t you make sake when your family is a sake brewer? He was a member of the Japan Overseas Cooperation Volunteers (JOCV) at the time. These words from a colleague of Mr. Sugihara, who was working overseas as a Japan Overseas Cooperation Volunteer (JOCV) at the time, have stuck in the back of his mind for a long time. From a young age, he saw his parents struggling to keep their sake brewery afloat, and he did not want to take over the brewery, but when it was finally on the brink of bankruptcy, he decided to protect this traditional Japanese industry. However, he had no knowledge of the difference between regular rice and sake rice, and had no experience in sake brewing. And, of course, he failed. Still, he had no choice but to sell his sake, so he made a determined attempt to sell it by going door-to-door in Tokyo and Osaka, but none of the sake shops would take him up on his offer.

However, one liquor store told him, “It doesn’t taste good yet and it won’t sell, but when we make good sake, we will surely buy all of it. So don’t tell me you’re quitting.” This encouraged him. Mr. Sugihara wanted to make something special if he was going to do it anyway, so he set his sights on creating “true local sake” by focusing on locally grown ingredients. He also wanted to produce rice that suited the local area, so he looked around for people who would help him grow rice. It was not easy for a small sake brewery to grow its own rice, but local volunteers who recognized Mr. Sugihara’s enthusiasm for sake brewing offered to help. Together with a master rice breeder, who is said to be the leading rice breeder in Gifu, and rice farmers who were willing to help him grow the rice, they focused on brewing sake with rice suited to the local climate, and repeatedly crossbred and established the best sake rice, “Yamada-Nishiki,” and “Wakamizu” suited to the local climate. Six years after Mr. Sugihara returned to the brewery, the first “Imi” was finally born. The sake rice was named “Ibi no Homare” and was certified as Gifu Prefecture’s sake rice for brewing in 2021. This was 10 years after the start of development.

Phantom Sake will be updated.

The characteristics of “Imi” are its floral aroma and mellow sweetness. And it continues to evolve in response to marketability. Ibi-no-Honor” is an ongoing process of breeding, and sake brewing is updated according to the year’s sake rice crop, climatic conditions, and food trends. I didn’t know anything about it, so I had no fixed ideas and was able to honestly adopt what I thought was good. It is truly sake brewed by everyone,” says Sugihara. His goal for the future is to become a model case for small sake breweries. This is because there are many advantages unique to small business. For example, because the production volume is small, there is no need for sales and advertising, and the company can concentrate on brewing sake. And they can control quality within their reach. If we can set a good example of how to achieve what we want by deciding what not to do, it will encourage other small sake breweries to do the same. We can do this because we don’t have fixed concepts. We can take on challenges because we are small.

The road to not pandering to the currents of the world is a steep one, and it is not an easy one. But if you don’t give up, you will be rewarded. Mr. Sugihara, who smiles and says, “I am the type of person who grows when I am praised,” has started distributing sake to liquor stores that have given him encouragement and encouragement.

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