Western-style Tsubaki Restaurant by Reservation Only

Gifu City is located in the southern part of Gifu Prefecture. Skyscrapers line the area around JR Gifu Station, the gateway to the city. In the old days, Dozo Saito laid the foundation of the city, and Nobunaga Oda, who became the husband of his daughter Kicho, opened Rakuichi Rakuza. In recent years, the area has become a bedroom community, partly because it is only a 20-minute train ride to Nagoya City. Many businessmen and students commute to companies and universities in neighboring Aichi Prefecture, and many people spend their holidays at large shopping centers in the suburbs, giving the area a typical modern regional city face.

On the other hand, it is not widely known that the demand for eating out is high, with citizens spending one of the five highest amounts on dining out in Japan, and the number of restaurants per 1,000 population is one of the highest in Japan. In such an environment, the restaurant ” Western-style Tsubaki” attracts visitors from both inside and outside of the prefecture and is open by reservation only.

Western-style cuisine served in an old private house full of nostalgia

The restaurant is located at the foot of a quiet mountain about 20 minutes north by car from JR Gifu Station. The well-maintained garden with a babbling brook echoing pleasantly reminds one of a luxury ryokan (Japanese inn). Just walking from the gate to the entrance of the restaurant is enough to give you the illusion that you have come for a kaiseki meal. The interior of the restaurant has a modern Japanese style, and you have to take off your shoes at the entrance.

Chopsticks are placed on a Japanese paper luncheon mat laid on a table with the warmth of wood. The plates on which the food is served are all white with gold rims in a simple design. It has the appearance of the “elegant Western-style food” that everyone imagines in the old days. This is Western-style food served in a Japanese-style space. The menu consists mainly of course meals, but a la carte dishes are also available, and there is a wide selection of wines to match the dishes.

What we can do because we are a Wagyu beef specialist

Tanakaya Food Service is one of the restaurants operated by Tanakaya Food Service, a company based in Ibigun, Gifu Prefecture, that operates restaurants focusing on meat. Tanakaya Food Service Co., Ltd. will also open “Butcher Tanaka” in Ginza 6-chome, a prime location in Tokyo, in 2020. The restaurant has become a hot topic as an authentic meat kappo restaurant that serves only one omakase course, using the best brand meat of the day as its main ingredient. The representative, Satoru Tanaka, is a true specialist of Japanese beef, calling himself a “meat master. He opened his first yakiniku restaurant at the age of 25, expanding to Tokyo, Aichi, Gifu, and Shiga, and in 2019, his Nagoya restaurant “Nikuya Setsugetsuka” won a Michelin plate, making his name known nationwide. The restaurant’s name has become a national standard. He is also highly regarded in the industry.

What made “Western-style Tsubaki” so popular was the fact that it used only A5-rank brand beef in its classic Western-style menu of steaks and hamburgers. By reviewing the ingredients of the menu, which has been loved by many people for many years, the restaurant has updated the taste. Hida beef, Matsuzaka beef, Mikawa beef, Omi beef, Kobe beef… He has dealt with more Wagyu beef than anyone else and has studied for many years how to bring out the best of it, so he knows which parts of Wagyu beef to use and how to use them, working backward from the ideal flavor, and has the skills to embody them.

A “formula” that captures the hearts and minds of gourmands

The brand name and individual identification number of the beef used in the restaurant are posted on the wall, which shows the attention to detail. Branded Wagyu beef x standard Western-style food = “Wagyu Western-style food. It may seem like a formula that anyone could come up with, but the solution can only be seen by those with a keen eye. That is why the restaurant has been able to capture the hearts and stomachs of many gourmands. The pride as a butcher that stands dignifiedly in the nostalgic menu may open the door to a new era of Western cuisine in Japan and create a new genre that people want to inherit for a long time to come. This is a restaurant you should definitely visit.

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The history of Inaniwa Udon

Located in the Inaniwa district of Yuzawa City in southern Akita Prefecture, Inaniwa udon originated over 350 years ago when Sato Kiszaemon (later known as Inaniwa Kiszaemon) began producing dried udon noodles in this area, surrounded by the pristine flow of rivers and lush forests of the beautiful Satoyama countryside. It became the official supplier to the Satake clan, the lords of the Akita domain, and has been passed down through generations as a closely guarded secret. Currently, the 16th generation Inaniwa Kiszaemon focuses on preserving tradition by limiting production to a small portion for distribution, ensuring the continuity of the family heritage. Concerned about the potential loss of this tradition due to its secretive nature, the technique of making Inaniwa udon was specially passed down to the second generation Sato Yosuke (now Sato Yosuke Shoten) at the end of the Edo period.

Located in the Inaniwa district of Yuzawa City in southern Akita Prefecture, Inaniwa udon originated over 350 years ago when Sato Kiszaemon (later known as Inaniwa Kiszaemon) began producing dried udon noodles in this area, surrounded by the pristine flow of rivers and lush forests of the beautiful Satoyama countryside. It became the official supplier to the Satake clan, the lords of the Akita domain, and has been passed down through generations as a closely guarded secret. Currently, the 16th generation Inaniwa Kiszaemon focuses on preserving tradition by limiting production to a small portion for distribution, ensuring the continuity of the family heritage. Concerned about the potential loss of this tradition due to its secretive nature, the technique of making Inaniwa udon was specially passed down to the second generation Sato Yosuke (now Sato Yosuke Shoten) at the end of the Edo period.

The secret of the delicious taste of udon noodles made by Sato Yoetsu Honpo

To make Inaniwa udon, you start by mixing plenty of saltwater with wheat flour, kneading and fermenting the dough repeatedly to create the base. Then, you cut it into strips about 3 cm wide and roll them into small logs. The process on the second day, called ‘hand-twisting,’ is what I consider the most important step,” says Sato. Using two hanging rods, the dough is quickly and rhythmically stretched into an “eight” shape while twisting the udon. This hand-twisting process, which involves almost half of the personnel in the entire process of making Inaniwa udon, is crucial. Due to the softness of the dough, which is softened by adding plenty of water, handwork is necessary to twist it. Sato describes Inaniwa udon as similar to fermented foods because it undergoes fermentation at various stages of the process. Indeed, during the dough stage, it is left to ferment for a long time, emitting a sweet aroma reminiscent of bread. The finished noodles, though slightly thinner than typical udon, have a flat cross-section, characteristic of Inaniwa udon. Despite their appearance, they have a remarkably firm texture and chewiness. Adjustments to the moisture and salt content are made based on the day’s humidity and temperature, and the noodles are aged for 3 to 4 days to develop their unique texture and smooth mouthfeel.

At Sato Yoetsu Honke, only domestically harvested wheat, harvested within a year, is used as the raw material for udon. Additionally, all other ingredients such as salt and starch are also domestically sourced. Both the ingredients and the manufacturing process are purely domestic, and this is the essence of Sato’s dedication. It is an indispensable commitment for the udon produced by Sato Yoetsu.

Applying the techniques used to make Inaniwa udon, Sato-san ventured into creating “Inaniwa Chuka” (Chinese-style noodles). Being a ramen enthusiast, he wondered if he could adapt the udon-making techniques to produce Chinese-style noodles. Initially, he experimented with fresh noodles, but during that time, he received advice from a renowned ramen shop owner in Tokyo to utilize the Inaniwa udon technique to make dried noodles instead. Thus, “Inaniwa Chuka” was born. While ramen shops typically use fresh noodles, Sato’s Inaniwa Chuka features straight, dried noodles that are sun-dried for a full two days, retaining the same texture and quality as Inaniwa udon.

Nowadays, the popularity of Inaniwa Chuka is such that specialized ramen shops in Akita City use these noodles. Sato-san envisions opening an eatery in the Inaniwa district that not only offers udon but also ramen, pasta, soba, and other noodle dishes made using the techniques of Inaniwa udon. It’s exciting to see the new noodle products from Sato Yoetsu Honke, born from traditional techniques, continue to evolve in the future.

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Commitment of Handmade soba, Fukusuke

Tonami in Toyama has a scattering of homes surrounded by trees. The scenic town resembles traditional farms and bring a touch of nostalgy. The modern Japanese style building that houses Fukusuke, the traditional handmade stone ground soba restaurant, fits in well with its surroundings.
The refurbished traditional Japanese home offers a warm comfortable setting with its high ceilings. Visitors enjoy a moment of tranquility observing the traditional craftwork and Japanese garden.

“What makes Fukusuke special is that our soba is made from seeds that are local to Toyama and we use superior quality well water and natural ingredients for the broth.”

Using soba flour that is freshly ground the day before, the soba is prepared according to the season and the characteristic of the soba grains. Special attention to the details is what results in the delicious soba filled with the owner’s dedication and commitment.

Flavor of Soba changes depending on how it is ground

　There are two styles of soba available, thinly cut cold style and wholegrain traditional style. The thinly cut soba has a texture and aroma that goes down smoothly. The broth for the cold and hot styles are prepared separately, and are a perfect match. The gentle sweetness spreads throughout your mouth with each bite.
The wholegrain soba is ground with the skin, in the traditional method, leaving just the right texture and pleasant scent. It is delicious with the broth, but a sprinkle of salt is also enjoyable.

While there are many varieties, the most popular in the summer is the cold soba with citrus and “junsai”. The cold soba features slices of “sudachi” citrus and the cool “junsai” is a favorite among the locals who look forward to it each year. We highly recommend this refreshing dish that is visually pleasing and delicious.

“tamagoyaki” in Soba restaurant

　Fukusuke is popular not only for its soba, but the other Japanese dishes prepared by Mr. Nishimura. The traditional style “tamagoyaki” uses top quality broth and premium eggs from a local brand chicken and is served steaming hot. The soba tea pudding has a sophisticated appeal with a sprinkling of gold foil and is quite smooth.

“I try to use local ingredients as much as possible and incorporate only the very best ingredients from around the country in hopes of elevating traditional soba and Japanese cuisine.”
Each dish is symbolic of the passion and warmth that Mr. Nishimura has. We highly recommend a visit when in Toyama.

Tonami in Toyama has a scattering of homes surrounded by trees. The scenic town resembles traditional farms and bring a touch of nostalgy. The modern Japanese style building that houses Fukusuke, the traditional handmade stone ground soba restaurant, fits in well with its surroundings. The refurbished traditional Japanese home offers a warm comfortable setting with its high ceilings. Visitors enjoy a moment of tranquility observing the traditional craftwork and Japanese garden. “What makes Fukusuke special is that our soba is made from seeds that are local to Toyama and we use superior quality well water and natural ingredients for the broth.” Using soba flour that is freshly ground the day before, the soba is prepared according to the season and the characteristic of the soba grains. Special attention to the details is what results in the delicious soba filled with the owner’s dedication and commitment.

There are two styles of soba available, thinly cut cold style and wholegrain traditional style. The thinly cut soba has a texture and aroma that goes down smoothly. The broth for the cold and hot styles are prepared separately, and are a perfect match. The gentle sweetness spreads throughout your mouth with each bite. The wholegrain soba is ground with the skin, in the traditional method, leaving just the right texture and pleasant scent. It is delicious with the broth, but a sprinkle of salt is also enjoyable. While there are many varieties, the most popular in the summer is the cold soba with citrus and “junsai”. The cold soba features slices of “sudachi” citrus and the cool “junsai” is a favorite among the locals who look forward to it each year. We highly recommend this refreshing dish that is visually pleasing and delicious.

Fukusuke is popular not only for its soba, but the other Japanese dishes prepared by Mr. Nishimura. The traditional style “tamagoyaki” uses top quality broth and premium eggs from a local brand chicken and is served steaming hot. The soba tea pudding has a sophisticated appeal with a sprinkling of gold foil and is quite smooth. “I try to use local ingredients as much as possible and incorporate only the very best ingredients from around the country in hopes of elevating traditional soba and Japanese cuisine.” Each dish is symbolic of the passion and warmth that Mr. Nishimura has. We highly recommend a visit when in Toyama.

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A soba shop standing quietly in soba country

Located in Suwa-shi, Nagano Prefecture, Kajin An is a ”soba” shop serving handmade ”soba”. ”Soba” is a must-eat food in Nagano, so we headed to this hole-in-the-wall ”soba” shop. ”Sake” for aperitif was ”junmaiginjo Mikotsuru” brewed at Hishitomo Jozo, the only ”sake” cellar of the area. The ”sake” was named after the founder of the cellar saw a dream of a crane, ”tsuru”, resting gracefully at Suwa Lake. ”Sharp and refreshing taste” says Nakata. The delicious taste stimulates the palate.

Enjoying colorful tri-colored soba

The savory ”tri-colored soba” consists of three different types of soba – ”sarashina”, ”seiro”, and ”inaka”(countryside. The owner of the restaurant explained, ””Sarashina soba” is made from buckwheat ground twice after removing the outer shell (first grinding), making the ”soba” look white. ”Seiro soba” uses buckwheat ground together with the epidermis (second grinding), giving it aroma and a sweet flavor. ”Inaka soba” uses buckwheat ground with the remains of the second grinding, and is the most flavorful of the three.” We thoroughly enjoyed the taste of fresh ”soba” and the different aroma each has.

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Local-grown material selected by the chef

”RESTRO RIN plus huit” is a French restaurant in Matsumoto City. Chef Masakazu Kobayashi is particular about visiting farms himself to select fresh ingredients.
For our first dish, we had Azumino-raised grazed pork, which was grown in an ideal environment for pigs. Sauce made from sherry vinegar enhanced its flavor. Nagano-grown ”Shiratsuchi imo” as garnish also had excellent taste, sweet and fluffy.

Evening with fine wine and premium beef

The second dish, Shinshu premium beef filet. The beef contains high density of oleic acid which is said to influence the taste. The meat was so soft that a knife can cut it effortlessly, and the juicy taste filled our mouths. At this point, Nakata pulled out the wooden wine aerator he found at ”Kiso Artech Co.”. Wine poured through the aerator is mixed with air that comes through the small holes on the side, making wine more mellow and soft. Nakata tried it with red wine. ”It tastes a bit lighter. The air makes wine fluffy” he commented. Chef Kobayashi’s sharp palate must be able to taste the difference, so we asked him to try as well. He sipped a mouthful and nodded, ” It really does change the taste.”

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68 Years Committed to the Sushi Industry

”Komatsu Yasuke” a prominent ”sushi” restaurant, that people refer to as, ”Jiro of the East, Yasuke of the West”. Unfortunately closed in November of 2015, Nakata had the opportunity of visiting this prestigious ”sushi” master before closing. Sushi master Kazuo Morita was 83 at the time. He entered the world of ”sushi” at 15 and had devoted his life to ”sushi” and only ”sushi” since then. ”Komatsu Yasuke” was the predecessor to Ginza Kyubei and has always been regarded as the ”Number 1 Sushi Master” of Japan, being one of the most famous ”sushi” restaurants in the country. People from everywhere around the country visited to have a taste of Morita’s ”sushi”.

Enjoying “sushi” with the eyes and the palate

We were first served squid ”sashimi” that was almost transparent. We asked how the moisture was removed. We were told ”Squid is very sensitive to moisture, so I quickly remove any moisture with a cloth.” The crab ”gunkan” named ”yuki momiji” is so popular among regulars that it has become a seasonal phrase in winter. It was named by a patron more than 20 years ago. The rice which enhances the seafood is from Gujo Hachiman in Gifu Prefecture. Each grain has a distinct shine, and according to Morita ”It comes from a region that has great water. The region also has a gap in the high and low temperatures, so the rice is tight.”

Always moving forward

As he enjoyed the delicious ”sushi”, Nakata commented. ”It is no wonder people from all over visit this restaurant to have a taste of this scrumptious feast.” Morita told us, ””Sushi” is always referred to as traditional and is something that is handed down, but you need to build up on it and keep on moving forward.” Morita himself often eats out on his days off, and 70% of the time has sushi. ”I try eating sushi all around Japan and I am inspired by young ”sushi” craftsmen. That links to my own progress.”

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From a hotelier to a farmer

”Organic Farm, Bio Farm Matsuki” is at the foot of Mount Fuji. While having lunch at ”Restaurant Bios” which opened in 2009, we spoke to the owner, Kazuhiro Matsuki.

Originally, Matsuki was a server at a restaurant in a hotel. After graduating hotel school, he went to France and worked for Nikko de Paris. He worked at first class French restaurants in places such as Ginza after returning to Japan, and he became the chief server at ”Taiyuan Robuchon” in Ebisu. In 1999, he suddenly decided to change his occupation to farming.

When Nakata commented ”It’s such a big transition from being a hotelier to a farmer.”, Matsuki explained the reason for this change in careers.
”Working in a restaurant is a night job. I wanted to do something that involved working during the day, and go home after it gets dark. It’s a more humane way of life. So I chose farming.”

Endless orders from all over Japan

After agricultural training, Matsumoto began organic vegetable farming in Fujinomiya City. In the beginning, he was thinking on a small scale, ”just enough to be self sufficient”, but he now grows about 60 varieties of vegetables in a land of three hectors. Mitsuki’s vegetables match the soil and climate, so they have a strong and deep taste. The flavor became popular, and orders started pouring in from all over the country.

Matsumoto is very active, having written several books, holds lectures, etc. He also holds ”vegetable school”, so people can know more about vegetables. Nevertheless, calling himself ”a farm person”, he spends most of his time in the fields during the day when the sun is out.

A field changes color every season. At ”Restaurant Bios”, one can enjoy seasonal vegetables which Matsuki grew as well as meat, fish, and dairy which he has acquired from local producers.

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Putting the Spirit of Hospitality into Kaiseki Cuisine

It is said that the name “Kiccho” was invented by Mr. Suma Taisui, a town painter, when he opened a restaurant in Shinmachi, Osaka. On the day of Tokaebisu (October Ebisu) at Imamiya Shrine in Naniwa, the vendors call out “Kicchou, Kicchou. Kitcho-basa,” decorated with sea breams, small gold coins, rice bales, and other ornaments, is believed to bring good fortune to prosperous business, and the shrine was crowded with people seeking these decorated bamboos. The name “Kitcho Sasa” comes from the call of the people who used to come to the restaurant to buy them.
Arashiyama Kitcho, the leader of Kyoto Kitcho, has preserved and developed the essence of kaiseki cuisine. Kaiseki cuisine has a fixed flow and has been systematized following the culture and ideas of the tea ceremony. However, with the passage of time, the “form of hospitality” for diners has also undergone changes.

Kyoto’s Kaiseki Cuisine Spreads Around the World

The ability to receive a three-star rating in the Michelin Guide Kyoto-Osaka 2021

One of the highlights of kaiseki cuisine is the “hakusun” dish, which is not limited to the traditional balanced arrangement of two or three dishes from the sea and mountains, but is also accompanied by several delicacies and sweet dishes that go well with sake. Furthermore, he incorporates a play on the seasons, and in each dish of the auspiciously arranged “hakusun” (eight-sided dish), he conveys a message that can be felt through all five senses. His inquisitiveness and creativity in cooking are said to be so great that he receives requests for training from overseas chefs as well.
At the G8 Hokkaido Toyako Summit held in 2008, a dinner was held at the sister restaurant “Arashiyama Kitcho,” located in the Windsor Hotel Toya, where guests stayed. This is the stage where the world’s dignitaries are entertained and Japanese culture is promoted. The “real pleasure” of representing Japan can be found at “Kyoto Arashiyama Kitcho”.

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The famous pasta

The Italian restaurant ”Siesta” is so famous that when people want to eat pasta in Wakayama, they say ”Eat here!”. The restaurant is always filled with customers, and is very busy.
It started as a cafe 9 years ago. When they started, the pasta dishes were the most popular, so they reopened as a pasta specialty restaurant. Certainly, once you try the chewiness of fresh pasta, it is to crave for.
The sauce which uses a lot of local ingredients from both the ocean and the land, is also part of the appeal.

Ultimate sweets made from local ingredients

Next to the pasta restaurant, there is a dessert specialty shop, ”Astro Siesta”. Their cheesecake is very popular. People make long lines to buy this cheesecake, so you have to go very early in the morning and line up or they will be sold out. It is the same when they sell at famous department stores.
It is thick and quite sweet. But it is not heavy. This taste comes from high quality ingredients acquired locally, such as free range eggs from Makiba ranch in Oishi plain, honey from mandarin orange flowers of the Nishibayashi apiary, and thick milk from Kimura Ranch. This store is a must visit when visiting Wakayama.

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Lord and Great Tea Master

The 7th lord of the Matsue clan, Fumai Matsudaira, was a central figure for Matsue becoming a town of tea culture. He is locally referred to in a friendly manner as “Fumai-ko” (Prince Fumai) or “Fumai-san” to this day. Fumai is actually his tea master name, the real name was Harusato Dewanomori Matsudaira.
Fumai-ko was very talented in the art of tea, and established the very unique “Fumai School”. He was a student of “Sado” (the way of tea ceremony) before becoming a lord of the Matsue clan, was initiated into the “Sekishuryukri school”, and studied in other schools, before finally reaching a new field with “Fumairyu”.

Fumai school continues to the present day

Tea ceremony in the Fumai school style can be experienced at “Kasentei Yuraku”. Guests staying at the inn can enjoy tea and tea sweets served in a tea room facing a Japanese garden. In an orderly tea room where guests may feel the need to keep good posture, warm hospitality awaits.
Kasentei Yuraku also has a library with books and photographs of the culture of Izumo and the history of Shimane. Guests can educate themselves while having coffee.
It is recommended for stimulating your interest in Shimane.

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