Soy sauce is an indispensable fermented seasoning for the Japanese. Recently, however, the number of soy sauce breweries engaged in its production has been declining. There is concern that the traditional industry is in decline. In the midst of this situation, Mr. Yoshinori Jo of Mitsuru Soy Sauce Brewery in Itoshima City, Fukuoka Prefecture, has taken up the challenge of reviving traditional breweries and making soy sauce with his own hands.

Determined to make soy sauce when he learned that they were not brewing their own soy sauce

While there are many soy sauce makers in Japan, few of them are engaged in the entire process of soy sauce production, from raw material processing to pressing, and most of them purchase soy sauce called “kiage shoyu,” which is made from unprocessed, unfiltered soy sauce, from soy sauce cooperatives or makers, and only heat and season it themselves. The soy sauce is then heated and seasoned only by the company itself. This is largely due to the “Law for the Promotion of Modernization of Small and Medium Enterprises” enacted in 1963. At that time, the government subsidized local cooperatives and manufacturers to efficiently produce products essential to daily life. While capital investment accelerated large-scale production, many small breweries stopped brewing their own products and shifted to purchasing from suppliers. Mitsuru Soy Sauce was one such brewery.

Having grown up with the aroma of soy sauce from an early age, Mr. Shiro naturally thought he would take over the family business. However, when he visited a large factory of a soy sauce cooperative as part of his work experience at an agricultural high school, he learned about the specific manufacturing process of soy sauce for the first time. I smelled the steamed soybeans, learned about koji and moromi, and thought, “Soy sauce is amazing. On the other hand, I felt sad that I didn’t have my own home brewery, and I wanted to make my own soy sauce someday! I wanted to make my own soy sauce someday! After graduating from high school, he went on to study brewing at Tokyo University of Agriculture. He began to study soy sauce making all over again.

While still a student! and went on an apprenticeship at soy sauce breweries all over the country.

However, Mitsuru Soy Sauce had been out of the brewing business for more than 30 years, so he was unable to learn from his family and there were no brewing facilities in the factory. Under these circumstances, Mr. Shiro, who was still a student, came up with the idea of traveling to breweries across the country to learn about soy sauce making.

I had a clear idea of what I wanted to do when I entered university, so I worked hard in my classroom, and during spring break, which coincided with the soy sauce brewing period, I asked my university professor for introductions and soy sauce breweries I met at department store events to let me study here for one week. I asked them to let me study here for a week, and they accepted me. Once I joined the family business, it would be very difficult to ask other manufacturers for training, so I decided to go as far as I could, thinking that I could only do this while I was still a student.

Thus, by the time he graduated, he had visited seven breweries and learned about soy sauce production at each. After graduation, he spent a year working at Okamoto Soy Sauce in Hiroshima, and before returning to Itoshima, he enrolled in a food coordinator training school in Tokyo to learn more about soy sauce production and its surroundings. After returning to Fukuoka, he began to steadily prepare for the revival of his business.

He started by repairing the vats that had been lying dormant and building a koji mold room.

Mr. Shiro returned to his parents’ home with a full of energy, but even though he wanted to use the knowledge and experience he had gained, the brewing environment at his factory was not yet ready, so his first challenge was to set up facilities.

With the help of craftsmen, he repaired the wooden vats that had been sitting in the warehouse and built a new room for making koji. We didn’t even have a kettle for steaming soybeans, so we really needed the help of various professionals. For the wooden vats, we asked craftsmen from Fujii Seikosho, the only vat manufacturer in Japan that can produce large wooden vats using traditional methods, to come to our house in Osaka. They repaired the ones that could be used, but only two of the five that remained were usable. We started with those two and gradually increased the number of vats. In this way, the vats, which had been lying dormant for some time, were brought back to life, and brewing began for the first time in about 40 years.

From the past to the present. Yeast Links Soy Sauce Craftsmanship from Predecessors

When Mr. Shiro was in college, he took yeast from a pillar in the warehouse that had been covered with mash that had been scattered from the vats when Mitsuru Soy Sauce was brewing its own soy sauce in the past, cultivated it, and froze it. This yeast was used in the first brewing of Mitsuru Soy Sauce, thus connecting the history of Mitsuru Soy Sauce. Perhaps this was a factor in the success of the soy sauce, but when Mitsuru Soy Sauce released its first dark soy sauce, “Namaari,” in February 2013, it received praise from all over Japan. The soy sauce was praised by people from all over Japan.

Many food-savvy people introduced us, including people at the brewery where I trained, and the editors-in-chief of cooking magazines and writers I met during my time in Tokyo. The reputation of the product spread by word of mouth, and it came to be used at famous sushi restaurants and French restaurants.

The reason why he chose the brand name “Namaire,” is because he wanted to keep it simple, “There is a lot of information on the packaging of soy sauce that is particular about soy sauce, such as ‘domestic soybeans’ and ‘made in wooden vats. I wanted to keep it simple. I wanted to keep it simple. I used local ingredients from Itoshima, handmade koji, and wooden vat brewing, which is a traditional production method, and I chose the word “raw” to express the pure impression.

The ingredients are made in Itoshima and Okinawan salt. Tackling the challenge of pesticide-free soy sauce and new types of soy sauce

Eleven years have passed since the first shipment. Today, the soy sauce produced by Mr. Shiro is loved by many people and restaurants, especially in his hometown Fukuoka and Tokyo. The ingredients are locally grown soybeans (fukuyutaka) and wheat (minami no kaori) from Itoshima, and the salt is shimasu from Okinawa. They sell dark, light, and re-finish soy sauces, as well as a pesticide-free dark soy sauce and a light-colored soy sauce called “orange. We had been trying to produce the pesticide-free soy sauce with the cooperation of local farmers since the beginning, but we had to stop production due to soil problems, etc. When we met with cooking expert Yoshiko Tatsumi, she blackmailed us, saying, “Why don’t you make it? She then asked me, “Why don’t you make it? I was given such an opportunity and started making it again with pesticide-free soybeans grown in Kyushu. Orange is a new soy sauce that we started to sell in 2023, and it is pressed before the moromi begins to ferment with lactic acid bacteria and yeast. We think you will enjoy the new flavor of soy sauce,” he says. When you actually lick the orange, you will find that the flavor is strong but the aroma of soy sauce is not strong, and the sweetness unique to koji spreads. It tastes like a new seasoning that is soy sauce but not soy sauce.

After I started making soy sauce, I understood why so many people are leaving the soy sauce business. Even if you prepare it the old-fashioned way, it’s tough from a business standpoint, and it takes a lot of time and effort. It is not an easy job. But I still want to stick to handmade, in-house brewing. I want to make use of everything that is produced during the soy sauce making process, such as selling the moromi and processing the strained lees into furikake, and I want to pursue new soy sauce possibilities, such as orange. Mr. Shiro hopes to continue to make soy sauce on the current scale without expanding to a larger scale. It seems certain that many people in the soy sauce industry, the culinary industry, and repeat customers will continue to pay close attention to what kind of soy sauce Mitsuru Soy Sauce will be releasing in the future.

The post Yoshinori Shiro of Mitsuru Soy Sauce Brewery revives in-house brewing by starting from scratch / Itoshima City, Fukuoka Prefecture, Japan first appeared on NIHONMONO.

While also being a chef, Shota Sasaki is the founder of ELEZO, a company that handles everything from hunting to production, maturing, processing, and sales as a hunter. What is the future of food as seen by a company that has a consistent stance toward game meat, nature, and life?

Aiming to be a “food pioneer” in the birthplace of Tokachi

The pioneering of the Tokachi region is said to have begun in earnest during the Meiji period (1868-1912). The first farmers settled in the Otsu area, located at the mouth of the Tokachi River, and the area has a history of development that began at the mouth of the river and continued upstream. Toyokoro, located at the mouth of the Tokachi River, which originates from Mt.

Toyokoro is a town of sea, mountains, and vast fields in the Tokachi Plain, where agriculture and fishing are flourishing. Many tourists come to Toyokoro for the spectacular view of “jewelry ice,” which is made of ice from the Tokachi River washed up on Otsu Beach at the mouth of the river and glistening in the sunlight. Rare wild birds and animals such as red-crowned cranes and white-tailed eagles live in this pristine natural environment.

ELEZO is a company established in Toyokoro, Japan, in 2005, and is engaged in the integrated production and management of game meat and other meat products, including pigs. ELEZO is a one-stop shop for hunting, raising, curing, processing, and product development, as well as sales and provision at restaurants.

Shota Sasaki first established the company in 2005 in Obihiro City, where he lives. After that, he built a laboratory in Otsu, Toyokoro, where his father’s family lived, and moved the company to a new location.

When I was a child, I used to visit Toyokoro as my father’s family home. When the town was pioneered, there was a movie theater and a racetrack. I used to feel the bustle of people in the midst of nature, but it has become completely desolate…. It was the birthplace of Tokachi development, and I wanted to “pioneer” it again.

There is another reason why Mr. Sasaki chose Toyokoro and especially Otsu, which is close to the sea. Nutrient-rich grass with minerals from the sea grows along the coast. Animals that graze on grass full of nutrients are more fertile than those raised in other areas. Whether it’s pigs or chickens, it brings out the potential of the animals.

A new encounter that overturns preconceived notions of “game meat”

Until high school, Sasaki had aspirations of becoming a professional ice hockey player, but since his family was in the restaurant business, he helped out at the restaurant while still in high school and gradually developed an interest in cooking while experiencing the difficulties of the business firsthand.

Thanks to my grandmother and mother’s restaurant, ‘Ele,’ it is loved by everyone in Obihiro. That is why I felt the need to keep it going, even if I or my siblings had to follow in their footsteps.”

So, after graduating from high school, he decided to become a chef and entered a culinary school in Gunma Prefecture. After graduation, he worked at the Hoshino Resort, and on his days off, he visited the French restaurant “Bistrot Passion (now called Provence)” in Karuizawa to learn from the chef. After two years of further honing his culinary skills, he asked the chef to introduce him to the French restaurant “Bistrot de La CITÉ” in Shibuya, Tokyo, which was established in 1973 and offers authentic and warm dishes with a bistro-like atmosphere, unlike restaurants.

After training at the famous restaurant, Sasaki returned to his family home to help his mother, who had taken over the restaurant from his grandmother, as a chef. I want to do something that can only be done here in Tokachi Obihiro,” he thought, ”rather than just taking over the family business.

He was still searching for the answer to this question, when the topic of “game meat” came up with one of his regular customers.

When I told him that I had handled a variety of wild meat, including deer, during my training in Tokyo, he said, ‘You don’t have a whole deer intact,’ and ‘You’ve probably never removed the bones or skin, so I’ll bring it to you next time. The next day, he brought me a deer he had just killed, and I learned that the customer was actually a hunter.

While studying as a chef at a famous restaurant, Sasaki also ate a variety of delicious foods as part of his studies. Of course, he had also eaten gibier, but he said he had never found it tasty. The shock he felt when he experienced the process of skinning, boning, and butchering a deer that was placed in front of him was a big one. He was even more surprised by the taste of the deer meat he tasted a few days after disassembly. The taste overturned his previous concept of “game meat”.

I sent the local deer to the owner and chef of the restaurant where I was training and to everyone who had helped me,” he said. They were surprised at how much better than they had imagined it would taste. The chefs asked me if I could help them to obtain game meat of stable quality, because it is not raised like cattle or pigs, and the taste and aroma vary depending on the growing environment, season, feed, sex, age, and method of capture.

However, the goal was not to become a “company specializing in game meat.

Game meat is a very deep and difficult subject. I really want to understand the essence of gibier. It is not that I want to become a gibier expert, but rather that I want to clarify the essence of gibier. I am a chef by nature, but I don’t think the answer lies in the kitchen, the restaurant, or the customer. You can never get the answer just by confronting the meat in the kitchen. The answer is in nature. You have to start using the senses that you can only enjoy in nature.”

Sasaki has long been concerned about the negative impression that has been spread about the meat business. Everyone eats meat and enjoys its bounty, but there is a lack of understanding and appreciation for the industry. He came to realize that the people working in the meat industry are not being rewarded, and he thought that if he could take a total role in the “food” business, from hunting, to rearing, aging, distribution, processing, and cooking, he could change people’s awareness of the industry. A kind of sense of mission was born in me.

Became a hunter himself and obtained a license to operate a slaughterhouse.

When serving deer or other wild game, the meat must be purchased from a facility licensed as a slaughterhouse. The meat must be dismantled and processed at a slaughterhouse in accordance with prefectural regulations. In order to deliver legal and safe wild game to Bistrot de La CITÉ, Le Manoir D’HASTINGS, Shiratori, The Georgian Club, and four other restaurants run by the same chef, Mr. Sasaki himself quickly obtained a hunting license. He obtained approval from the public health department and set up the necessary structure, including a converted tenant as a processing facility. He also hired a dedicated hunter and has been working hard to build an innovative system for gibier meat distribution.

In addition, ELEZO has set a clear rule that the deer it hunts must be young, no older than three years old.

The life span of a deer is around 10 years. Most large deer are between 5 and 10 years old. The meat in Japan is usually sold by the kilo. The amount of time and effort required to process a deer does not vary depending on the size or age of the deer. Large deer that can yield a large amount of meat are more efficient. This has created a vicious cycle in which large deer meat is distributed to Tokyo and other areas, regardless of the quality of the meat. The deer I enjoyed eating was a two-year-old deer with tender meat. Now I understand why the deer I ate before did not taste good.”

He has also decided not to aim the gun at anything other than the neck or head to avoid damaging organs and noses. Shooting at the stomach area will damage the internal organs and harden the meat, leading to deterioration in quality. After hunting, the animals are not processed in the field, but rather are delivered to the laboratory within one hour.

Creation of Integrated Meat Laboratory

ELEZO’s Ezo venison has gained a good reputation, and the company’s popularity is concentrated on young, high-quality doe that are “clear and clean,” as Mr. Sasaki calls them. However, it is not always possible to get a young doe, and sometimes a male deer is brought in. Another issue was how to handle the less popular cuts of meat other than those in high demand, such as the loin and fillet.

We can’t just say, ‘I only want the loin,’ or ‘I only want this part,’ like in a regular restaurant,” he said, ”for better or for worse. That’s why our policy is to take responsibility for every piece of meat.

ELEZO has created a laboratory that “sublimates all of life”. The meat is then processed into fresh salami, terrine, ham, etc., and sold in the company’s charcuterie department. The most popular parts, which are in high demand, are cured and sold to restaurants. The quality of ELEZO’s meat has spread from mouth to mouth, and the company now has 400 restaurants nationwide and ships about 600-800 head of Ezo alone each year.

In addition, ELEZO is also focusing on raising birds and pigs in a natural style similar to game meat, based on the company’s desire since its establishment to “unveil game meat and then produce livestock and poultry that contain gibier.

For example, we raise pigs slowly for a year and a half instead of the usual six months, and graze them on a sloping hill from early on. We also practice stress-free flat-raising where chickens are released on the ground. We want to move away from an ecology that is adapted to the convenience of humans as table meat, to an environment where we can feel the background, emotions, and functions of animals that have lived in the wild, or animals that should live in the wild.

Passing on the aesthetics of meat, life and nature to the future

In October 2022, the auberge “ELEZO ESPRIT” will open. It will be a facility where visitors can enjoy ELEZO’s unique cuisine and space that focuses on the essence of life and nature, including the aesthetics of meat.

Mr. Sasaki says, “It is inefficient to handle the A to Z of food starting with the chef, from hunting and production to curing, processing, and sales. However, if we, who know the behaviors of a living creature from its ecosystem and the essentials of how to make a living creature, can further penetrate into the essence of the food, we can create the value we wish for the food itself, and this will lead to a great advantage.

We are preparing to realize the AtoZ model that we have developed over the past 19 years in other countries as well. The model itself, but ultimately we would like to create an academy to increase the value of the artisans.

In the future, Mr. Sasaki would like to raise cattle here, as well as Japanese and French ducks and pheasants. His passion for food culture and inquisitiveness will continue to accelerate in the future.

The post “ELEZO Corporation” spirits the appeal of game meat as a food pioneer. first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Soy sauce is a traditional industry that has been handed down through the years. There is a man who has made it his mission to promote the appeal of soy sauce, which is indispensable to Japanese food culture, and has visited more than 400 soy sauce breweries throughout Japan. Mr. Mantaro Takahashi is the representative of Traditional Design Studio, Inc. which develops the “Shokunin Soy Sauce” brand.

A select store offering the finest selection of soy sauce

Shokunin Shoyu has its head office in Maebashi City, Gunma Prefecture, where Mr. Takahashi was born and raised. Maebashi, also known as the prefectural capital, is located at the northernmost tip of the Kanto Plain, and is a core city where the city and nature are in harmony, nurtured by the majestic nature of Mount Akagi and the abundant water of the Tone River. On the first floor of a condominium in a quiet residential area stands a store that stands out from the crowd. The storefront is covered by a massive wooden exterior wall that resembles a soy sauce warehouse, and is marked by a graphical logo.

Once inside the store, the walls are filled with small bottles of a wide variety of soy sauces with colorful labels. Mr. Takahashi visits soy sauce breweries all over Japan to select from about 100 different brands. The store also offers food pairing suggestions and tastings from among the many varieties of soy sauce available. It is truly a soy sauce specialty store, a one-of-a-kind soy sauce boutique.

We want to shine a light on traditional and local industries.

I had a vague idea that I wanted to start some kind of business,” he said. After graduating from college, Mr. Takahashi worked for a precision optical equipment manufacturer, and after three years of sales experience, he quit the company. However, he had no specific plan in mind, but rather a passionate desire to start a business that he kept in his heart. In order to find what he wanted to do, Mr. Takahashi embarked on a journey that took him all over Japan.

As he searched for what he could do, relying on the sales skills he had cultivated as a manufacturer, he glimpsed the reality of traditional and regional industries that lacked the ability to communicate, despite their confidence and pride in their craftsmanship. Takahashi came to the realization that “this is where I should be working. He narrowed his focus to traditional industries that were more familiar to him and that he had not yet been able to “select and buy” and eventually arrived at the profound world of soy sauce.

Thus began his days of visiting soy sauce breweries all over Japan, getting in touch with the brewers, and learning more and more. The common denominator among the breweries is that they are making good products, but they are not selling well. But they don’t sell well. Even though they carefully craft their products with carefully selected ingredients, they sell them at the same price as mass-produced products, saying, “We can’t charge a high price for something we use every day. The small brewery’s small production volume also made it difficult for them to get their products into major distribution channels. We found problems in the soy sauce industry, which has not done enough to make its products known to consumers.

The idea of specializing in mini bottles

All soy sauce is standardized into small 100ml bottles and sold with the brewery’s original label. This is the original size of artisan soy sauce. The idea for this was inspired by the “difficulty” Takahashi experienced when buying soy sauce in the stores. The size of a typical one-liter bottle is quite intimidating to try out,” he says. In the end, you end up choosing the same thing as usual. Small bottles are easy to pick up, and you can buy several bottles at the same time to compare tastes. When we find a soy sauce we like, we tell them to buy it directly from the brewer,” says Takahashi.

It started with a small number of soy sauce breweries that thought it would be “fun” and willingly agreed to sell small bottles. Gradually, the number was increased, and now the company handles 100 brands from breweries all over Japan. Starting with Internet sales, Craftsman Soy Sauce has established a new sales style and is steadily expanding its sales channels, from the main store in Maebashi to a storefront at Ginza Matsuya in Tokyo, and wholesale sales to department stores, supermarkets, and general merchandise stores.

Soy sauce, which is used every day but surprisingly unknown

By the way, every Japanese household is sure to have soy sauce. It is a familiar seasoning that everyone uses for cooking and eating as a matter of course. It is easily available at the supermarket, and when a bottle of soy sauce is about to run out, people buy another bottle of the same one they have been using without hesitation. Many households are probably like that.

When asked again, “What exactly is soy sauce?” we realize that we know surprisingly little about soy sauce, even though we use it every day. Although soy sauce is a seasoning that supports Japan’s food culture, the general public’s knowledge of soy sauce is unfortunately limited. Soy sauce is just soy sauce, and they probably use it without much awareness. They may not even think about using different types of soy sauce for different ingredients,” says Takahashi.

Chiba Prefecture is the largest producer of soy sauce in Japan

First of all, do you know where soy sauce comes from? There are approximately 1,100 soy sauce manufacturers in Japan. A comparison of shipments by prefecture shows that Chiba Prefecture, home to three major soy sauce makers (Kikkoman, Yamasa Soy Sauce, and Higeta Soy Sauce), is by far the largest producer. Hyogo Prefecture is in second place. These two prefectures alone account for more than 50% of the market share. Gunma Prefecture, where Shokunin Soy Sauce is based, comes in a close third, followed by Aichi Prefecture in fourth, and Kagawa Prefecture in fifth.

What are the main ingredients of soy sauce?

Soy sauce is made from three basic ingredients: soybeans, wheat, and salt. Microorganisms such as koji mold, lactic acid bacteria, and yeast play an important but invisible role. Fermentation by microorganisms is the key to the mellow aroma and umami characteristic of soy sauce, which is a fermented seasoning that takes from six months to two or three years to make. Even if the same ingredients are used to make soy sauce, the microbial ecosystem differs from one soy sauce maker to another. The interesting thing about making soy sauce is that it never tastes the same.

Soy sauce is divided into five types, and regional characteristics are deeply involved

According to JAS (Japanese Agricultural Standards), soy sauce is classified into five types: dark, light, re-finish, tamari, and white. The most common type is koikuchi soy sauce. This type accounts for about 80% of the total distribution volume.

Soy sauce also has regional characteristics. The presence of dashi, an essential ingredient in Japanese food culture, seems to have had no small influence on the production of soy sauce in each region. In western Japan, where kelp broth is the base, light soy sauce is used for cooking, while in eastern Japan, where bonito broth is the base, all-purpose dark soy sauce is the norm.

The saltiness of soy sauce is also a regional characteristic. In regions by the sea, such as Kyushu and the Sea of Japan, sweet soy sauce made with amino acid solution and sweetener is preferred, and fresh fish is served with sweet, thick soy sauce. On the other hand, inland areas tend to favor salty soy sauce.

Furthermore, the Chubu region is home to a variety of fermented foods such as sake, mirin, vinegar, and miso. The two extremes of soy sauce coexist in the Chubu region: thick tame shoyu, which has a long maturation period and concentrated umami flavor, and light shiro shoyu, which has a short maturation period and is lighter in color.

Using different types of soy sauce expands the world of food

According to Mr. Takahashi, “It is a waste to use only the same soy sauce. If you use different types of soy sauce for different dishes and ingredients, it will taste better and be more enjoyable. In addition to the five JAS-standard types of soy sauce, Craftsman Soy Sauce also offers a unique classification of six types of soy sauce, including sweet soy sauce. In order of shortest maturity, they are: white, light, sweet, dark, re-fermented, and tame. He says it is easy to understand the characteristics of these three types by dividing them into three broad categories.

First, the short maturation periods, from six months to a year, are for light-colored, high-salted, and full of the flavors of the ingredients. Next, sweet and dark types can be easily matched with ingredients, and can be used in cooking or poured over food.

The remaining two types, re-finishing and tamari, have a longer maturation period of two to three years and are unique. The other is tame, which contains more soybeans and less water, and has a richer color and flavor. It can be used like a sauce, and you can enjoy the sense of unity with the ingredients.

Soy sauce is much like wine.

I am often asked by customers, ‘Which soy sauce goes best with sashimi? We often get questions from customers about which soy sauce goes best with which sashimi,” says Takahashi, ”but there are different types of soy sauce that go well with red and white fish. It’s easier to understand if you think of shiro shoyu and awakuchi shoyu as white wine-based, while re-finished shoyu and tame shoyu are red wine-based,” says Takahashi. Just as there are wine pairings, such as a crisp white wine for white fish and a rich red wine for red meat, so too there are food pairings for soy sauce. By using different soy sauces for different dishes and ingredients, the range of enjoyment will expand even further.

You can find a bottle that complements your food.

In order to make the soy sauce selection process more intuitive, we have devised something like this. It is called “Daikoubutsu Soy Sauce”(favorite soy sauce), which suggests combinations of soy sauces selected by Mr. Takahashi from all over Japan and foods that go well with them. The food illustrations on the package are placed over the bottle label, making them easy to spot. The lineup includes 24 varieties, including sashimi, egg over rice, pork cutlet, fried egg, toast, and more. The familiar illustrations and the interest in favorite foods make casualness and ease a priority, and succeed in lowering the hurdle for choosing soy sauce.

What is the vision of the future of soy sauce that Artisan Soy Sauce aims for?

When Mr. Takahashi first entered the soy sauce industry, there were approximately 1,600 soy sauce makers, but today there are fewer than 1,100, and soy sauce production is on a downward trend. Only about 1% of all soy sauce is made in wooden vats. Even so, about 60% of the soy sauce handled at Shokunin Soy Sauce is made in wooden vats.

Mr. Takahashi insists on using wooden vats because the microorganisms that live in the vats bring a unique flavor to the soy sauce during the fermentation process. The result is a unique soy sauce that reflects the characteristics of the brewery. In other words, the brewery’s attitude toward soy sauce production is directly reflected in the soy sauce. Wooden bucket brewing, which tends to produce a blurred finished product, can lead to a drop in soy sauce quality if it is not properly managed.

I believe that both the products mass-produced in factories by large manufacturers and the handmade soy sauce produced by small soy sauce breweries have their advantages and disadvantages. The great thing about the big companies is that the quality is always stable. On the other hand, small breweries have a large swing in quality. But I find that interesting. Mr. Takahashi also finds value in the stories of hardships experienced by brewers who repeatedly go through trial and error.

Recently, he says, the number of young brewers who view soy sauce made in wooden vats, which has its own unique flavor and aroma, in a positive light is gradually beginning to increase. It’s very similar to the craft beer movement,” says Takahashi. There is a glimmer of hope for the future of soy sauce breweries, which have been shrinking.

There is sure to be overseas demand for unique and particular “craft soy sauce,”” says Takahashi, who is also considering exporting soy sauce to other countries to expand Japan’s deep soy sauce culture to the rest of the world. Mr. Takahashi’s challenge to connect the brewer and the user has only just begun.

The post Mr. Mantaro Takahashi, a “soy sauce craftsman” evangelist who connects small soy sauce breweries across Japan with consumers. first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Shizuoka and Nagano prefectures are well-known for their wasabi. In fact, Sekigane Wasabi is also known for its stickiness and aroma in Sekigane-cho, Kurayoshi City, Tottori Prefecture. Yoko Nishikawa, who made the I-turn from Kyoto as a member of the Regional Development Cooperation Volunteers, is focusing on cultivating seedlings and selling wasabi oil in order to promote the attractiveness of Sekikane wasabi.

Sekigane-cho, Kurayoshi City, which prospered as a barrier station

Kurayoshi City is located in the center of Tottori Prefecture. Sekigane-cho, located at the eastern foot of Daisen, a famous mountain in Tottori Prefecture, is said to have opened about 1,300 years ago and prospered as a hot spring resort town. Hot spring inns line the center of the town, and in the Edo period (1603-1867), a barrier station was established to heal travelers.

The town is blessed with abundant water resources, with the Ogamogawa River flowing through the town, which is registered as one of the “rivers with the best water quality” by the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism.

Sekigane Wasabi, a specialty of Sekigane

Known for its hot springs and history, Sekigane Town has another specialty. That is “Sekigane Wasabi. One of the largest wasabi fields in western Japan is located near the Ogamogawa River, which is fed by subterranean water from Mt. It is said that the cultivation of Sekigane wasabi began about 100 years ago. Although there are vast terraced wasabi fields, most of them are small-scale wasabi fields where wasabi is planted on the rock face in line with the mountain range.

Sekigane-cho is blessed with low iron soil suitable for the Mazuma strain of wasabi, which is considered the best of the three major wasabi varieties, “Shimane 3,” “Mazuma,” and “Daruma. In addition, the cooler temperatures in Tottori compared to other growing areas allow the wasabi to grow slowly, resulting in a firm, firm body. When it is grated, the wasabi is appreciated for its hardness, consistency, and high aroma.

Mr. Nishikawa came to Sekigane-cho as a Regional Development Cooperation Volunteer.

In 2013, Yoko Nishikawa was assigned to Sekigane-cho as a member of the Regional Development Cooperation Volunteers to “spread the goodness of Sekigane wasabi” and started a company, Nishikawa Shoten, which cultivates, processes, and sells wasabi. Ms. Nishikawa’s initial mission was to enliven the town’s revitalization as the “young proprietress” of Sekigane Onsen. In cooperation with local officials, she has organized town-wide cultural festivals and other events to promote Sekigane Onsen. In her third year of service, she started running the “Wasabi Cafe,” where visitors can taste the famous Sekigane wasabi, in order to let more people know about the good qualities of Sekigane Town. After graduating from the cooperative, he started Nishikawa Shoten to promote Sekigane Wasabi both domestically and internationally.

Wasabi grows in abundant water

There are two main types of wasabi cultivation methods: “sawa wasabi,” which is grown in water, and “hata wasabi,” which is grown in the soil. In Sekigane-cho, sawa wasabi is cultivated using subsoil and spring water from Mt. Since it is not possible to sow seeds directly in the water, both cultivation methods begin with growing seedlings in the soil. After the seedlings are grown, they become sawa wasabi if grown in a clear stream, or field wasabi if grown in a field.

The key factors in growing sawa wasabi are water temperature, air temperature, and sand as soil. The water temperature must be kept at 14 to 16 degrees Celsius throughout the year. Also, clean water, plenty of water, and sandy soil that allows water to circulate well are necessary.
There are two methods for growing wasabi seedlings: the seedling method, in which wasabi is grown from seed, and the strain method, in which small wasabi stalks (seedlings) are divided from large wasabi stalks (parent plants) to increase the number of seedlings. Considering the cost of time and money, many farmers use the stock-splitting method to increase the number of seedlings, but if the parent plant is diseased, the seedlings will inherit the disease and grow up. In addition, growing the same variety of seedlings for many years causes continuous crop failure, so farmers must regularly plant seedlings of different varieties, which places a heavy burden on them.

I want to produce healthy, disease-free seedlings.

Although it would be ideal to have a different variety of seedlings every year, the brand power of Sekigane Wasabi is not as strong as in major production areas such as Shizuoka. The amount of money needed to buy good seedlings cannot be matched by the amount of money required to purchase Sekigane Wasabi, so the farmers must resort to the stock-splitting method.

Wasabi farmers know the cultivation method and necessity to produce good seedlings, but they are unable to do so because of the cost and labor involved. Therefore, Mr. Nishikawa decided to specialize in seedling cultivation.

There were many farmers who wanted to produce good seedlings but were unable to do so. So, we decided to grow seedlings on behalf of the farmers, have them use them, and buy the grown wasabi. We then deliver them to chefs, process them into products that more people will know about, and let them circulate. By increasing the number of seedlings that grow in a healthy and vigorous state, we wanted to solve the problems in areas where the farmers could not,” says Nishikawa.

Depending on each farmer’s preferences and the conditions of the wasabi fields, we also carefully consider how large the seedlings can grow. Because it is a small community, he says, it is possible to grow wasabi to a state that suits each individual farmer.

Wasabi is not only spicy. It’s a product that delivers aroma.

Wasabi oil was developed using wasabi purchased from farmers in order to convey the appeal of wasabi to a wider audience.

If the oil is recognized and a source of funding for cultivation is secured, we will be able to deliver healthy seedlings to small-scale wasabi farmers. In this way, Japan’s beautiful wasabi fields will be preserved and left to future generations. I hope that this will be conveyed not only to this region, but also to the rest of the world. I wanted to convey to people that the appeal of wasabi is not only its pungent taste, but also its fragrance.

The product is not pungent, but rather a slightly pungent taste, and the original aroma of wasabi is enjoyed. The oil does not volatilize the aroma, and even wasabi that does not look good can be used, so it does not have to be discarded. It was also envisioned that the product would be easy to deliver to distant places, such as overseas, and would be easy to combine with everyday dishes.

Three oils combined with Japanese fragrance

There are currently three types of oil being made. The base oil is “Wasabi Oil” made by soaking finely chopped wasabi in rice oil produced in Yamagata Prefecture and extracting only the portion with the aroma transferred.

Yuzu Wasabi Oil is made by combining the oil extracted from distilled yuzu citrus.

Shiso Wasabi Oil” is a combination of the oil extracted from boiled shiso from Ohara, Kyoto, and the oil from which the aroma is extracted.

A few drops added to grilled vegetables or meat will add aroma and spiciness. Because it is made with rice oil, it is perfect for dishes made with soy sauce or soup stock.

Eventually, we would like to create a distillery where we can adjust the oil to the user’s preference, making it more pungent and aromatic or lighter,” says Nishikawa.

Helping to raise awareness of Wasabi’s various uses

Nowadays, wasabi grown in a large production area is considered to be “good wasabi” because of its large and straight shape. However, there are various types of wasabi, such as small wasabi with a strong aroma and wasabi with a strong stickiness even if it is not well-shaped, and I think that the best wasabi is the one that suits the situation of the person using and eating it.

This realization came about when he met Chef Yosuke Suga, who after 16 years of working under Joel Robuchon, the world’s most Michelin-starred chef, opened “SUGALABO” in Kamiyacho, Tokyo, and is now active on the world stage. After meeting Chef Suga, who traveled throughout Japan to deliver dishes of Japanese delicacies, Mr. Nishikawa thought that if he could provide wasabi suited to the taste and texture demanded by chefs, he would be able to meet many demands by gathering products made by small farmers, even if they are not from a major production area We are looking for a way to provide seedlings that will be appreciated by the farmers.

We will provide seedlings that will be appreciated by farmers. We would buy the wasabi grown from them well. Then, we will make it into a product that chefs will want to use.

We look forward to the future of Mr. Nishikawa, who says he would like to deliver wasabi in various forms so that he can make proposals according to what kind of dishes people want to use it for and the situation at that time.

The post Enjoy the original aroma of Sekigane Wasabi. “Nishikawa Shoten” supports farmers with wasabi oil and culture. first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Oka Naosaburo Shoten, with a warehouse in Midori-shi, Gunma Prefecture, is a long-established soy sauce brewery with a history of more than 230 years, having been established in 1787 during the Edo period (1603-1868). The Oomama factory, which consists of a brewing factory and the main building that also serves as a store, still continues the traditional soy sauce making process using wooden vats that have been passed down from generation to generation.

Founded in the scenic Omamasa area

Midori-shi, located in the eastern part of Gunma Prefecture, is blessed with rich nature at the southeastern foot of Mount Akagi, and about 80% of its long north-south terrain is covered with mountains and forests. The Oma-Mama Plant of Oka Naozaburo Shoten is located in the Oma-Mama district, halfway between the mountains and the plains. The Watarase River flows nearby, and the Watarase Valley Railway runs alongside the river. Takatsudo Gorge, a beautiful valley praised as the “Yabakei of Kanto,” is famous for its fresh greenery and autumn foliage. It is one of the most popular sightseeing spots in Midori-shi, where visitors can enjoy the magnificent scenery of the river and valley.

Omanama used to be a prosperous post town where people used to come and go as a strategic point on the “Akagane Kaido” road, which transported copper from the Ashio Copper Mine to Edo (present-day Tokyo), and also as a distribution center for silk and raw silk. It is said that Chubei Oka, an Omi merchant, started his soy sauce brewing business under the name of “Kawachiya” in this scenic and water-rich area of Omamata in Jyoshu.

Oka Naosaburo Store, registered as a Tangible Cultural Property of Japan

Even today, the area along Route 122 (Akagane Kaido) from Kiryu to Nikko is dotted with quaint warehouses, merchant houses, and Western-style buildings. The retro atmosphere of the townscape is a strong reminder of the past. It is a great blessing that we are able to preserve the original appearance of the town where the company was founded,” says Shuji Oka, the eighth generation head of the company. Oka Naozaburo Shoten, which stands along a highway, had its Omama factory store, main building, and library registered as a Tangible Cultural Property (building) in 2013. In front of the store, a huge fire oven stands proudly, welcoming visitors.

Natural brewing in wooden vats as in the past

Fermentation and maturation take place slowly in a natural climate. I want to continue to do this for a long time. As Oka-san clearly states, Oka Naozaburo Shoten uses large wooden vats that have been passed down from generation to generation, and they continue to preserve the traditional method of soy sauce making, sparing no time or effort.

Natural brewing, which is dependent on the natural climate and seasonal temperature changes, requires a long fermentation and maturation time of approximately one to one and a half years. Craftsmen check the condition of the mash in wooden vats and stir it to stimulate fermentation, called “oar insertion,” to determine when it is time to press it. The many years of experience and intuition of the craftsmen are indispensable.
The reason why they insist on using wooden vats is that as they continue to use them, microorganisms grow in the brewery and wooden vats, maintaining a comfortable environment for the soy sauce and giving it a flavor that is unique to that brewery. Since there are no craftsmen who can make wooden vats nowadays,” he says, “we are taking good care of the ones we have left. The wooden vats are held in place by a “hoop” made of woven bamboo, and not a single nail is used.

Plant undergoes first major renovation in 100 years

The Omama factory underwent a major renovation in 2017 due to the aging of the warehouse. The soy sauce and miso shops have a tendency to be forgiven because they have a long history, but if they lack cleanliness and neglect safety and security, it’s a complete disaster. We must not leave the old buildings as they are. We cannot survive if we do not ensure safety and security.” With this sense of crisis, the company decided to undertake a major renovation in order to pass the building on to future generations. Two warehouses built in the Meiji period were demolished, and a new steel-frame factory was constructed on the site. With the introduction of the latest equipment, the raw material processing, pressing, and filling operations were renewed under thorough hygiene control to enhance safety and security. The brewing warehouse has also undergone some repairs, but the characteristics of the good old brewing site remain.

What should be new should be new, and what should be left behind should be left behind.

Upon entering the brewery, one can smell the distinctive aroma of fermenting and maturing soybeans. The floor has been replaced with a concrete floor, but the large wooden vats are still in place, giving the brewery a powerful appearance. The wooden vats are not placed on the floor, but rather are floating on the floor so that they can be accessed from below in case repairs are needed. Going up the stairs inside the brewery, one can now see the mash being prepared in the wooden vats from above. The floorboards have been replaced, but the atmospheric ceiling beams remain as they were in the past. The yeast that lives there is the lifeblood of naturally brewed soy sauce. The living yeast that comes with the brewery is a true asset of Oka Naozaburo Shoten. We aim to preserve the traditions that need to be preserved, while at the same time ensuring the safety and security of our products,” says Mr. Oka.

Carefully selected ingredients worthy of the name “Japan’s Best”

The traditional naturally brewed soy sauce produced by Naosaburo Oka Shoten is basically a dark soy sauce that is slowly fermented and matured. The soybeans used to make the soy sauce are whole Japanese soybeans, and the wheat is grown in Gunma Prefecture. In particular, the “ichiban-shibori” (first-strain) and “nidan-brewing” (a brewing method in which koji is added back into the finished soy sauce after it has been brewed a second time), which are popularly known as the “best soy sauce in Japan” (registered trademark), use 100% domestic organic round soybeans and organic wheat, both of which are rare and produced in extremely small quantities among all domestic soybeans. The trademark “Japan’s No.1 Soy Sauce” is a reflection of the strong aspirations of the first generation Omi merchants.
Other popular products include “Tamari Soy Sauce,” which is fermented and aged without wheat using only soybeans and salt and has a rich umami, salty taste and unique aroma, and “Kiage Soy Sauce,” which has the aroma and flavor of freshly pressed koji and live natural yeast that has not been heat-treated. In recent years, the company has been receiving requests from ramen stores to use kiage shoyu, and is gradually increasing the number of customers.

We want to tell our customers more about the wonderful taste of soy sauce.

In the renovated old private house, you can enjoy shopping for a wide variety of processed soy sauce products, including Oka Naosaburo Shoten’s signature naturally brewed soy sauce. You can also enjoy a soy sauce tasting to find the soy sauce you like best. The soft-serve ice cream made with two-step soy sauce is only available at this store. The unexpected combination of rich, thick soy sauce and sweet, milky soft serve ice cream is sure to surprise everyone. It is a “deep taste like caramel,” to use an analogy.

Tours of the brewery are available at any time, and many tourists now visit the brewery. Tourists can also relax in the back room of the brewery after shopping. Naozaburo Oka Shoten, which is also making efforts to contribute to the community by revitalizing the town, is now expected by the locals to become one of the tourist attractions of Midori City.

Mr. Oka says, “My main goal is to make the delicious soy sauce culture available to people not only in Japan but also around the world. For more than 200 years since the Edo period, craftsmen have been using vats that have been passed down from generation to generation to make natural-brewed soy sauce in wooden vats using a traditional method. With Japanese food being registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2013, and with the growing interest in Japanese food culture from overseas, it will not be long before the name “Japan’s No.1 soy sauce” is spreading around the world.

The post “Oka Naosaburo Shoten” has been in business for more than 200 years, making soy sauce with a focus on traditional natural brewing / Midori-shi, Gunma Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Sakaiminato in western Tottori Prefecture boasts one of the largest landings of snow crab in Japan. Sakaiminato boasts the largest catch of red snow crab in Japan, and many processors offer their own unique products. Among them, Maeda Suisan’s crab rice and doria, which are made with freshly caught red snow crab, are attracting attention.

Sakaiminato, one of the largest crab landings in Japan

Sakaiminato City, adjacent to Yonago City in Tottori Prefecture and Matsue City in Shimane Prefecture, is located on the northern tip of the Yumigahama Peninsula, surrounded on three sides by the Sea of Japan, and boasts the largest catch of red snow crab in Japan.

Sakaiminato is also known as the “distribution center of western Japan” because of the variety of seafood landed throughout the year: firefly squid in spring, fresh bluefin tuna in summer, Matsuba crab and red snow crab from fall to winter, and mackerel, sardines, and squid. It is also known as the “distribution center of western Japan” because of its abundance of crab processing plants, which attract crabs from all over the country.

Tottori is proud of its Matsuba crab and red snow crab

There are two main types of crabs caught in Sakaiminato: Matsuba crab and red snow crab. Matsuba crab is another name for male snow crab, which is caught in the Japan Sea in the San’in region. It is found at depths of 200 to 500 meters and has a tough shell with a dense meat. It can be eaten raw, cooked, frozen, or any other way. On the other hand, red snow crabs live in the deep sea at around 1,000 meters and have soft shells with high water content. It is juicy and has a sweetness unique to the crab, but because of its high water content, it loses its freshness quickly. In addition, once frozen, the crab tends to drip when thawed, and the flavor is lost. The skill of each processor is to keep the crab fresh and process it in the most delicious way possible.

Maeda Suisan, which has steered the company away from sardines to processing crabs

Among the various processing companies, Tetsuya Maeda of Maeda Suisan is the one who has been working on side dishes that are easy for consumers to eat without losing the flavor of crab. The company was founded in 1960, when Maeda’s grandfather ran a dried sardine processing plant in Shikoku. Later, affected by a decline in fish catches, he looked for another port and ended up in Sakaiminato.

At first, they caught sardines by seine fishing and processed them by drying them in the sun, but the catch of sardines decreased in Sakaiminato as well. When they realized that they needed to process other fish as well as sardines, the processing of red snow crabs became the talk of the town, and they turned their attention to processing crabs.

Seeking added value that only we can provide

Since 1985, however, crab catches have been on the decline. His father had told him that he had the option of closing the company, but he could not simply quit when he thought about the results he had achieved and the employees he had hired. Without a clear answer, his predecessor passed away, and Mr. Maeda took over the company at the age of 33. As he searched for a direction for the company, Mr. Maeda said, “I still want to deliver the deliciousness of Sakaiminato crabs. I want to produce not only boiled peeled crabs, but also processed products with special characteristics that will not be affected by the decline in resources.

Developed “Kani Okowa” (rice topped with crab), an easy-to-eat crab dish

From there, the company enlisted the help of experts and repeatedly made prototypes of side dishes that could be easily eaten with crab. The result was “Red Snow Crab and Crab Okowa,” which can be easily heated in a microwave and also makes use of the crab’s shell. The cooking liquid from boiling the crab meat was used in a luxurious way to enhance the flavor of the crab. The rice is made from locally produced “Himenomochi” glutinous rice, which is known for its firmness. The glutinous rice is glutinous, has no crab smell, and is not too strong. The result is a refreshing crab rice bowl.

At the beginning of its development, the company asked the cooperation of Japanese-style pubs and inns that had been wholesaling peeled crab for some time, and offered it to visitors to Tottori. The rice with full of crab flavor was very popular, and the recognition of crab rice gradually increased.

The packaging was also designed to make it a popular choice as a souvenir of Tottori at souvenir stores and online stores. The product can be defrosted in a microwave oven without removing the crab shell by hand, which “has helped to popularize crab,” says Maeda.

In addition, as word spread that Maeda Suisan is capable of processing products other than peeled crab, the company received an increasing number of inquiries asking if it could make something like this. In addition to its own products, Maeda Suisan also developed and sold side dishes for Osechi cuisine and gifts for department stores, and the production of okowa and other processed products became a major source of support in terms of management.
In 2010, the company won the top prize at the “Miyako Tottori Specialty Food Contest,” a gathering of Tottori Prefecture’s specialty products, for its convenience and taste. In 2011, the company received the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award, the highest award in the new product development category of the “Central Contest for Superior Hometown Foods,” which recognizes food products that make the most of regional characteristics. This was the first time for a product to win the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award in Tottori Prefecture as a whole, and the company’s name recognition has increased.

The secret to the delicious taste is the ingenious heating process and the oil that locks in the flavor.

The flavor of crab is sensitive to heat, and the aroma will be lost if too much time passes after heating. In addition, since red snow crab contains a lot of water, it is important to minimize dripping after thawing.

Maeda Suisan does not simply boil the snow crab to preserve its flavor, but also steams or bakes it to suit the product. The heating time is also thoroughly adjusted according to the individual differences in the crabs, so that the chewiness and flavor of the meat is preserved to the maximum extent possible.
In addition, to enhance the crab’s flavor and deliciousness, we have developed an original crab flavor oil called “Grandqui Oil”. Crab shells and meat are simmered in the oil to lock in the flavor and deliciousness. The additive-free, colorant-free, and fragrance-free oil is also used in okowa (rice topped with rice flour), which gives the dish a rich crab flavor similar to that of baked crab.

Original products packed with the power of crab

The high reputation of the okowa has led to the development of a variety of processed products. Currently, “Red Snow Crab Doria” is the second most popular product along with okowa. The bechamel sauce used in the doria is made from milk produced by Daisen Dairy, a local dairy cooperative also known for its “white rose milk. The rice, of course, is also grown in Tottori Prefecture.

The “Kanimiso Korayaki” (crab brain shell baked in a shell filled with crab miso, made by the traditional method of boiling down crab meat without using any thickening agent) can be served as a gift by pouring sake over it and searing it after the meal.

“Crabs will save the earth” Believe in the potential of crabs

In recent years, crabs have attracted attention not only for their delicious taste, but also for the chitin/chitosan contained in their shells. Chitin is a type of animal dietary fiber contained in the shell that is hydrolyzed into chitosan, which can be digested and absorbed by the human body. Chitin is used in a wide variety of ways, including as surgical thread and artificial skin in the medical field, as a fertilizer for agricultural fields, and as a cosmetic and health food in our daily lives.

The crab’s meat is used for food, its shell is used as a vessel, and its shell is used in the medical field and in the fields. Crabs are delicious to eat, have ingredients that are good for the body, and have almost no parts that can be discarded. And most importantly, everyone who receives a crab is happy. We believe in the possibility that crabs can save the earth, and we would like to deliver the charm of crabs to the world.

Crabs can be used in a variety of ways, not to mention in delicious rice balls and doria. Maeda Suisan is determined to continue to introduce the appeal of crab to the world, and we cannot take our eyes off of them.

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Shiro-dashi is a clear, amber-colored soup stock that enhances the flavor of ingredients. The product is now widely used throughout Japan, but Shichifuku Brewery in Hekinan City, Aichi Prefecture, was the first company to produce this white dashi. The company’s president, Motohiro Inuzuka, is well respected in the brewing industry as a pioneer in popularizing white dashi, which was born from the voices of chefs, in ordinary households.

Hekinan City (Hekinan) is a brewing town blessed with abundant water and land

Hekinan City is located about 40 km southeast of Nagoya, the center of Aichi Prefecture. Surrounded by water, with Aburagafuchi to the north, the Yahagigawa River to the east, and Kinuura Port to the west and south, the city is blessed with a warm climate and climate. The population is about 75,000. In this small town, there are more than 10 companies involved in brewing soy sauce, sake, mirin (sweet sake), miso, and other products, which shows how well suited the area is for brewing.

It is believed that the brewing culture developed in the Mikawa area, where Hekinan City is located, because of the stable availability of wheat, soybeans, and rice, the raw materials for brewed products, during the postwar food shortage and the abundance of water sources used for brewing. Another factor that is said to have contributed to the great leap forward in the brewing industry was its proximity to ports and well-developed shipping routes, which made it easy to ship products.

Why is soy sauce white? Wheat ratio and fermentation period are key

Under the Japanese Agricultural Standards Law (commonly known as the JAS Law), soy sauce is classified into five types: dark, light, re-finish, tamari, and white soy sauce. The origin of soy sauce is said to date back more than 1,000 years, but according to literature, white soy sauce has a shorter history than other soy sauces, having been on the market for less than 80 years.

Soy sauce is made differently depending on the ratio of soybeans, wheat, salt, and water used as ingredients, as well as the length of the brewing period. Shiro shoyu is made with more wheat and requires a shorter fermentation period, so it is characterized by the natural sweetness and aroma of the ingredients. It is also light in color and does not easily color dishes, which makes it very useful in restaurants that are particular about the appearance of their food.

However, dark soy sauce is still not widely used at home. While dark soy sauce accounts for 80% of the market share, white soy sauce accounts for less than 1%.

White dashi was created at the request of a chef.

Nanafuku Brewery started in 1951 as a brewing and sales company specializing in white soy sauce. Even today, Shichifuku Brewery is the only soy sauce maker in Japan that specializes in white soy sauce.

Compared to dark soy sauce and other so-called “black soy sauces,” white soy sauce is in lower demand in the average household. Of course, this is proportional to its share of the market, but why did the company decide to specialize in producing this type of soy sauce?

The main reason is that Hekinan City is the birthplace of white soy sauce, and Inuzuka’s grandfather Akemoto, the founder of the company, learned to brew white soy sauce there before founding the company. The ratio of wheat and soybeans used in black soy sauce and white soy sauce is different. Each soy sauce is made from wheat and soybean malt, but in the case of black soy sauce, the ratio is almost 50-50. In the case of black soy sauce, the ratio is about 50-50, but in the case of white soy sauce, the ratio is 9 to 1, with most of the koji being made from wheat. The brewing period is also different: black soy sauce takes one to three years to brew, while white soy sauce takes only two to three months. Wheat koji and short brewing time are the two factors that affect the lightness of the color of the liquid. To brew both types of soy sauce would simply require twice as much equipment, so although he understood that the market share for white soy sauce was low, he chose to brew white soy sauce in the spirit of “I’ve learned a lot and it’s from my hometown,” and started a brewing company specializing in white soy sauce.

Unintentionally, however, this matched Shichifuku Brewing’s commitment.

The company has been particular about ingredients since its establishment and now uses organically grown wheat and soybeans as the raw materials for all of its castle soy sauce. And white soy sauce itself is mostly in demand from kappo (Japanese-style cooking) and ryotei (Japanese-style restaurants), which are particular about beautiful appearance. As a result, the two sides of the business have enhanced each other’s product value, and inquiries from professional chefs seeking authentic taste have increased.

However, “white soy sauce” is a seasoning for professional use, and when it came to sales, it was not all smooth sailing. However, the company continued to improve its brewing techniques, earnestly pursuing its motto of “pursuing the best taste.

It was around 1970 that the company reached a turning point. A chef at a hotel in Gifu asked the company for advice. Normally, they made chawan-mushi (steamed rice in a bowl) by mixing dashi broth with white soy sauce and allowing it to cool, but when they had to cook for more than 100 people at a banquet, they felt it was a bit time-consuming. He then asked Atsunori Inuzuka, Inuzuka’s father (now chairman), who was an old acquaintance of his, “When there are group guests at banquets, etc., if you run out of the mixture, you have to make more each time, which takes up time. But if there is too much left over, it has to be thrown away, so it cannot be left over, which is not very efficient. He asked us if it would be possible to make a preparation that combines the dashi and white soy sauce in advance.

After three to four years of trial and error, he completed the product, which became the “ancestor” of today’s white dashi.

Because of its ease of use, white dashi spread throughout the restaurant industry and began to be used. When it was first sold, it was often used in ryotei (Japanese-style restaurants) that served Japanese cuisine, but it gradually came to be used in Chinese, Italian, and other genres of cuisine.

Real flavor comes from real ingredients.

The white soy sauce that forms the base of the white dashi is made mainly from organic JAS-certified wheat and soybeans. The soup stock added to it is mainly bonito flakes produced in Makurazaki, Kagoshima, and the use of honkare flakes has remained unchanged since its development. Dashi broth is said to be difficult to find the right balance between the tastes of the Kanto and Kansai regions, but we aimed to create a flavor and aroma that would be easily accepted anywhere in Japan by using our own unique blend. The white dashi is completed by adding kombu and shiitake mushroom broth, salt, and Mikawa-produced hon mirin (Japanese sweet cooking rice wine).

Based on the flavor of wheat and soybeans slowly drawn out at a low temperature

As with the raw materials, we are particular about the manufacturing process. The longer soy sauce is aged, the darker the color becomes. On the other hand, if the aging period is too short, the flavor of the wheat and soybeans is not fully expressed. Therefore, Nanafuku Brewery uses refrigerated tanks during the brewing process to slowly and deliberately bring out the flavor at a low temperature. Mr. Inuzuka explains, “Cooling the tanks makes production less efficient. I’ve heard of places warming up the tanks, but we may be the only company that cools them down.

In fact, if you pour the soy sauce from the tank into a cup before filtering or flame broiling, you can directly taste the umami and flavor, but in this state, the saltiness is too low and the umami component too strong to be called JAS-standard soy sauce. However, in this state, the soy sauce is not salty enough to be called JAS-standard soy sauce because it has too much umami.

Professional taste is why we want you to use it for home cooking.

At the time of its launch, white dashi was created in response to requests from professional chefs, so it was sold in commercial-use bottles for restaurants.

When the company began selling it in small quantities for home use, it became a hot topic because it could be used to make restaurant-like dishes at home, and the popularity of the product spread rapidly. On the other hand, many people were puzzled at the time because they did not know how to use the new seasonings, which were unfamiliar to them.

Even today, compared to dark soy sauce, Inuzuka feels that many people still do not understand its uses. In such cases, he suggests, “I think most people use salt when cooking, but if you could use white dashi in place of salt,” he says.

With the tradition and pride of being “the originator of white dashi

Brewers generally make more than one product, such as soy sauce or miso,” Inuzuka says proudly. However, we are the only company in Japan that makes only white soy sauce,” Inuzuka proudly states. The reason why they do not produce black soy sauce, even though the company has grown in size, is because they are proud to be the only “white soy sauce organic JAS certified factory” and “the originator of white dashi” in Japan.

Mr. Inuzuka is eager to spread the white soy sauce, which has an elegant aroma and sweetness and does not add unnecessary color to ingredients, and the white dashi produced at this brewery to ordinary households. The white soy sauce is the cornerstone of this authentic seasoning, which was born from the voices of chefs. Hekinan City, the kingdom of brewing, delivers professional taste.

The post The taste of an Aichi-born ryotei (Japanese-style restaurant). Shichifuku Brewery, which popularized white dashi to home cooking. first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Kakutani Bunjiro Shoten, a mirin brewer, was founded in 1910 in Hekinan City in southeastern Aichi Prefecture. Sanshu Mikawa Mirin, carefully brewed with a focus on bringing out the original flavor of rice, was used for appetizers and takitomi at the 2016 Ise-Shima Summit, helping to enhance the flavor of dishes served to the heads of countries, and is highly regarded by culinary professionals. The brewer is Toshio Kakutani, the third president of Kakutani Bunjiro Shoten. After many years of involvement in mirin brewing, Mr. Kakutani’s next step is to further expand the possibilities of mirin, with an eye to overseas markets as well.

Kakutani Bunjiro Shoten’s commitment to “Mastering Mirin” in Aichi Prefecture

Hekinan City is a small town with a population of 70,000 facing Mikawa Bay in southeastern Aichi Prefecture. Blessed with an abundance of water and mild weather, the town has been dealing with mirin (sweet sake) for over 100 years. Sanshu Mikawa Mirin, the signature product of Kakutani Bunjiro Shoten, is a mirin made by brewing glutinous rice to bring out the best flavor of glutinous rice. This seasoning has a refined sweetness, umami flavor, and a brightness and luster that makes ingredients shine. Mr. Kakutani says, “At my age, I want to convey the deliciousness of mirin to people more than just selling a lot of mirin. That is the goal I am aiming for now: to master mirin.

Why Mirin is the best seasoning for the Japanese diet

Mirin is said to have been created as a beverage sake during the Warring States period. It was around the Edo period that it came to be used as a seasoning. People began to demand sweetness in their cooking, but sugar was still a luxury item at that time. Mirin, which is cheaper than sugar and has a sweetness derived from rice, which is familiar to Japanese people, came into use. Mirin not only adds sweetness and shine to food, but also has an “azeotrope” effect, in which the alcohol in mirin evaporates together with the odor component when heated, and a “masking” effect, in which the aroma produced by the brewing process removes the fishy smell of meat and fish. Mirin, therefore, became widely used in Japan, where fish was widely consumed, as it not only added flavor but also reduced the fishy smell of fish.

Mirin also has a high water retention property, preventing excessive water loss from foodstuffs. In recent years, some bakeries have begun to incorporate mirin into their baking processes, focusing on its water retention properties. In fact, the water retention after baking keeps the bread moist without reducing the loaf.

Mirin making is a byproduct of the brewing culture

Surrounded by abundant water sources, the Mikawa region had easy access to rice, wheat, and soybeans, and the brewing industry flourished for more than 200 years. With the construction of a port that served as a logistics hub, a variety of traders came in and out of the region from all over the country, and the brewing industry further developed as brewed products made in the region were transported to other parts of the country.

From the end of the Edo period to the Meiji period (1868-1912), the city became as famous for sake as Nada (Kobe) and Fushimi (Kyoto), both famous sake-producing areas in Japan. The sake lees produced during the sake brewing process became easily available, and shochu made from the sake lees was used to brew mirin (sweet cooking sake) in the Mikawa region.

As can be seen from this, mirin is made by preparing shochu, glutinous rice, and rice malt. The process also produces lees, just like sake production. According to Mr. Kakutani, in his predecessor’s time, he sold the lees to pickle shops in Nagoya instead of discarding them. The proceeds were used to purchase rice for the following year. Mr. Kakutani says, “I think we were able to make luxurious, high-quality mirin because we had a company that was willing to buy the sake lees at a high price, rather than just throwing them away. At first, the company only dealt in sake lees, but it gradually built relationships with pickle stores, and some of them began to consider manufacturing products using the mirin produced by the company. One such shop is a long-established pickles store in Nagoya. Mirin (sweet sake) lees produced by Kakutani Bunjiro Shoten are also used in the store’s Nara-zuke pickles, and have become an important factor in supporting the popularity of this local specialty product that represents Aichi Prefecture.

Allow it to brew long enough so that the flavor is cohesive.

The long process of brewing and maturing the unrefined rice (moromi) together with rice malt and shochu (distilled spirit) is an important step in the production of mirin. The rice starch is broken down into glucose and protein into amino acids by the rice malt, resulting in sweet and tasty mirin. The flavor of mirin is enriched by shochu (distilled spirit), which is distilled in house. It is then aged in the brewing tank for about three months before being pressed and further aged. After more than a year of maturation, the flavor is matured and the mirin is finally complete.

There is a reason why mirin is matured further after three months have already been spent at the stage of pressing the matured unrefined sake. Mirin immediately after pressing is a mixture of the sweetness of glucose, the umami of amino acids, and the spiciness of the shochu used to make it, and the taste is uneven. Mirin is then matured to remove the bitterness, and the flavor is combined to make it mellower and more rounded.

Difference between Hon Mirin and Mirin-like Seasonings

Hon Mirin is made by taking the time to mature the rice to maximize its flavor. Shochu (distilled spirit) with an alcohol content of over 40% is used in the brewing process, resulting in a finished product with an alcohol content of around 14%. Under the Liquor Tax Law, it is classified as a “liquor” and is subject to liquor tax when sold.

On the other hand, mirin-like seasonings, which are inexpensive and widely sold in supermarkets, are a blend of rice malt, glucose, syrup and other sugars, umami seasoning, flavoring, etc., and have an alcohol content of less than 1%. It requires less time and effort to brew, and can be obtained cheaply because it does not incur liquor tax. If you are not familiar with the difference between mirin-like seasonings and hon mirin, it is difficult to tell the difference, but there is a big difference in the taste of dishes made with both.

Mirin and hon mirin both have the same effect of adding sweetness to dishes, but the alcohol in hon mirin also has the effect of preventing cooking from falling apart and of allowing the flavor of other seasonings to permeate and soak into the ingredients. This explains why it is often said that “the mere use of hon mirin raises the quality of a dish. It is precisely because inexpensive mirin-like seasonings are widely available today, Kakutani Bunjiro Shoten insists on hon mirin, which “makes a difference in cooking,” and continues to preserve its traditional flavor.

For seasonings used all over the world

Mr. Kakutani repeats this phrase, “Master mirin. Mr. Kakutani repeats this phrase repeatedly, but he also says, “If our business gets thin after we have mastered mirin, it will not be possible to run it. He is actively visiting overseas business meetings to promote the use of mirin in Western cuisine. He believes that by dispelling the image of mirin as a seasoning for Japanese cuisine, he can open up the future of mirin in a big way. Mr. Kakutani is determined to spread the world’s use of mirin, which is produced through the art of brewing, before mirin-like seasonings become the mainstream.

Efforts to enhance the value of “glutinous rice liqueur

Mr. Kakutani calls mirin “glutinous rice liqueur. This is only because he is proud of the brewing method that brings out the sweetness and flavor of rice in shochu. And because he wants to change the image of shochu as a seasoning only for Japanese cuisine.

Also, by calling it a liqueur, we aim to make it easy to incorporate into various genres of cuisine. Kakutani has been exploring the possibilities of mirin by asking famous chefs to use it in French cuisine and other dishes.

Mr. Kakutani is proud that the world is gradually recognizing mirin’s rice-derived umami and the flavors added by aging. However, when a French pastry chef used mirin in his chocolate, he was a bit surprised. When I heard about it, I thought it was surprising,” he says. But it is a liqueur made from rice. If you think of it as a liqueur, it should work well in sweets as well.

Using safe raw materials is the future of the producer.

Kakutani Bunjiro Shoten also produces “Organic Sanshu Mirin” made from domestic organic rice. This product, made using only domestically produced organic rice in a traditional process, was the first organic mirin in Japan. Although Mirin has been produced long before the word “organic” became popular, there are almost no other makers producing Mirin with organic rice even today. Compared to Sanshu Mikawa Mirin, which has a strong sweet taste, organic Mirin has a gentle, soft flavor and a fruity aroma that is unique to rice. Because of its mildness, the presence of alcohol on the tongue is felt more strongly than in other products, which is also unique to this product.

In 2000, they obtained organic certification. In the beginning, they had to work hard to secure the large amount of organic rice needed to make mirin, but they have continued their efforts with persistence. He says, “Eating and using products harvested in the fields and rice paddies that have been handed down through the generations in Japan is also a way of preserving the local environment. If there is no one to eat what is harvested there, the farmers would be worried. By expressing our willingness to “eat the produce because it was harvested in the area,” the farmers can grow vegetables and rice with peace of mind. I believe that this will also nurture their successors,” says Kakutani.

The Mikawa region of Aichi Prefecture is blessed with water and climate, and the richness of the land has led to the development of a brewing culture, and mirin production began as a byproduct of that culture. Mr. Kakutani continues to take on the challenge of passing on this heritage.

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Oenosato Nature Farm” raises hens in a flat-fed, stress-free environment. The eggs produced by the hens raised here are named “Tenbiran” (meaning “Heavenly Blessed Delicious Eggs” in Japanese). The price of these eggs is about 120 yen per egg. The price is more than three times higher than the price of a typical chicken egg, which is about 300 yen for a pack of 10 eggs. Today, however, the price of eggs has become less surprising as high-end eggs are now available, but it is no exaggeration to say that Oenosato Nature Farm’s Tenbi Eggs were the pioneers of high-end eggs, as they have been sold at this price since the late 1990s when the farm was established. The history of the company is filled with the founder’s desire to “raise the value of eggs.

An urban building that is hard to believe is a ranch nestled deep in the mountains

Oenosato Nature Farm is located in Hachigamachi, in the southeastern part of Tottori Prefecture. It is not far from the city, about 30 to 40 minutes by car from Tottori City, but as the name of the facility suggests, it is located in a mountainous area rich in nature, surrounded by greenery all around.

An urban glass-walled building suddenly appears in the midst of such great nature. From the front, at first glance, the sophisticated design does not look like a ranch, and rightly so. While it is a farm where more than 30,000 chickens are raised, it is also one of the most popular facilities in the prefecture, attracting more than 360,000 visitors a year, with a variety of large and small food booths, patisseries, bakeries, cafes, and gift stores.
However, it is not the popularity of the restaurants and gift stores that has made the facility so famous, but the poultry farming that has made it so well known.
The history of Oenosato Nature Farm began with its founder, Mr. Riichiro Obara, who still serves as its representative, and his 2,000 chickens.

From Doubts about Modern Poultry Farming to Independence

Why did he name his farm “ranch” instead of “poultry farm,” even though he is primarily a chicken farmer and does not engage in any other livestock farming?
The reason is deeply rooted in Mr. Obara’s experience.
Before opening Oenosato Nature Farm, Mr. Obara worked at a large poultry farm. There, chickens were kept crammed into a small space separated by cages. Cage-keeping is the practice at many poultry farms. Although he understood the reality of modern poultry farming, which demands productivity, he could not shake off his doubts and pain about this method of keeping chickens, and he could not bear to continue working as a poultry farmer.
Although he had once left the poultry farming business, Mr. Obara was still attracted to the work of poultry farming. Wanting to try a method of raising chickens in a natural environment, he decided to open a poultry farm in the rich natural environment of Oe, where his grandfather used to live.

At that time, Mr. Obara chose the “flat-feeding” method to realize his ideal chicken raising.
The chickens are free to run around in the spacious, sunlit coop without any partitions, and they are muscular and healthy. The chickens are free to run around freely and are muscular and healthy. They choose their favorite places to bathe in the sand or play in the sun, and spend their time comfortably, thereby minimizing their stress. Nowadays, more and more poultry farms are adopting this method of chicken rearing, which is called “animal welfare,” but at that time, it was still a rarity.
The chickens living here are gentle and very friendly,” says Obara. Even today, about 2,000 chickens are kept in one coop, and they almost never fight. At the poultry farm where he used to work, there were times when chickens in close proximity pecked each other, perhaps due to stress, and their feathers were torn to pieces. Based on this experience, Mr. Obara is now raising chickens while constantly thinking about the kind of environment he would like to be kept in if he were the chicken himself.
The ideal home he has created for his chickens is more like a ranch than a poultry farm. Mr. Obara named his facility “ranch” because he wanted to engage in poultry farming in such an environment.

Fresh eggs that you know the day they were laid.

As mentioned above, the eggs laid by the hens raised at the Oenosato Nature Farm are called “Tenbi Eggs” and have added value because of their commitment. What is noteworthy is the taste and appearance. The “richness” of the eggs is 1.5 times greater than that of ordinary eggs. The whites are elastic and the yolks are plump and healthy looking, with a rich orange color like the sun.

Mr. Obara recommends that first-time buyers try it with rice over egg, so that they can taste the freshness of the flavor.
Incidentally, purchasers often ask, “What is the expiration date of the eggs? When asked this question, Mr. Obara replied, “The expiration date of the eggs is about two years from the date of purchase. Oenosato Nature Farm answers, “For raw eggs, two weeks after birth,” but Mr. Obara tells us that the taste changes over time. Freshly laid eggs have a slightly hard taste. Of course, this can be called “freshness,” but after a few days, the taste becomes softer and “mellower,” he says. The reason for this is that freshly laid eggs contain a lot of carbon dioxide gas, which is released as time goes by.
Mr. Obara, who has been committed to improving the growing environment of his hens and enhancing the value of eggs since the time he opened his business, must be thinking daily about how to maximize the flavor potential of his eggs, rather than simply claiming to be fresh.
However, freshly laid eggs are still delicious, and instead of controlling the timing of their shipment, they believe that it should be up to the buyer to decide whether to enjoy the taste that mellows over time or to taste the freshly laid eggs right away. That is why Oenosato Nature Farm continues to insist on shipping eggs freshly picked every morning on the same day, even though the number of eggs produced has increased.
Because of this commitment, the company has been selling high-end eggs with confidence since the day it opened its doors.

Pancakes with a two-hour wait that made Oenosato famous.

As egg production increased, so did the number of out-of-spec eggs, of which a certain percentage were produced. In an effort to make use of these eggs, the company began selling processed products and offering sweets.

He insisted that the ingredients used in his processed foods and sweets be locally and domestically produced, and above all, he was absolutely confident in the taste of the eggs he produced.
However, being particular about ingredients does not necessarily mean that the sweets and dishes using those ingredients will taste good. What is important is whether they have experience, skills, and know-how in cooking. Oenosato Nature Farm is a poultry farm, and there was no way they could find a staff member with extensive experience in cooking, so the first person they turned to was an egg delivery staff member who loved to eat.
The staff gradually gained experience by visiting confectionery stores for training and hiring specialized instructors.
However, it was not until 14 years had passed since the poultry farm was established that they were able to complete products of a quality that they could sell with confidence and open a sales outlet in the facility.
It took a long time, but that is why we were able to succeed,” says Obara. The reason for this is that over the years, Tenbi Egg has become widely recognized, and at the same time, the number of people who share its value has increased. The sales office is attached to a poultry farm. Although it was not a place where many people came and went as in the city center, it was the fans who knew the value of Amami Eggs who were the first to visit the store when they heard the news of the start of the sweets sales. After many years of work, the products were highly acclaimed and became known throughout the prefecture by word of mouth.
The sweets made with Amami Eggs gradually became one of the representative brands of Oenosato, and today, many people learn about Amami Eggs and the ranch through these sweets.

Among them, “Oenosato Pancakes” made the name of Oenosato Nature Farm famous. The pancakes are made with firm Amami egg meringue, and are characterized by their melt-in-your-mouth texture and rich egg flavor. It has been the cafe’s signature item for many years, and even now, on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays, customers wait in line for two to three hours to get their pancakes.

It started out as a small pastry store built near a poultry farm in 2008, and gradually expanded as the number of customers grew, and a café space was added. In 2016, a large food facility was opened that also sells bread and sausages and has a restaurant. Behind the expansion of Oenosato Nature Farm from a poultry farm to a popular tourist attraction was Mr. Obara’s long-held dream of “creating a place where people can see, touch, and experience what we have been doing, so that many people will know the charm of this place.

A place where nothing is what it seems.

When he first began planning to turn Oenosato Nature Farm into a tourist attraction, he was afraid that the staff would say, “Isn’t it reckless for a single company to create a reason to visit this place with no tourist resources?” Mr. Ohara was reluctant to confide in his staff, because he was afraid they would say, “Isn’t it reckless for a single company to create a reason to visit this place with no tourist resources? However, when he set this enthusiasm as a goal and communicated it to those around him, he learned that there were a number of staff members who felt the same way. His enthusiasm spread to other staff members, and the entire company became involved.

The reason why the sweets store, café, and restaurant were not opened in the city center, where there is a large population flow, but instead in this location was because “This building would not stand out so much if it were in the middle of the city, but its value would be very different if it were here, where there is nothing but nature. We thought, “This is where we can do it. They wanted to convey to the young people of Tottori Prefecture an attraction that is not only found in urban areas.

To convey the charm of Oe

OOE VALLEY STAY” is a new attraction added to Oenosato Nature Farm. It is an accommodation facility that utilizes a closed elementary school in the area. The former elementary school, located within a few minutes’ drive from the ranch, has been transformed into a facility that combines food, experience, and lodging.

Here, visitors can enjoy the beautiful starry sky, the morning air unique to the satoyama surrounded by mountains, and the delicious local sake and regional food culture carefully selected by the Oenosato Nature Farm. The addition of the “lodging” factor to the “food” and “experiences” that have attracted so many people to the facility in the past has made it possible to convey the charm of Oe to an even greater number of people.

To poultry farming in nature

And they are also updating their poultry farming, which is their starting point, through trial and error.
Take feed, for example. We have always used corn, rice bran, seaweed, and other natural ingredients in our formulations to help build the chickens’ bodies. However, as the next phase, we believe it is necessary to change our current dependence on imports of grains, which are the main ingredient of feed.
First, with the cooperation of domestic producers, we have begun growing corn for animal feed in Hokkaido. Also, locally produced feed rice and bamboo charcoal made from bamboo, which is considered a nuisance in the mountains. These are beginning to be used for animal feed. Although costly, Mr. Obara believes that there is always value in going beyond this. Even if it is difficult to get the whole of Japan involved right away, they must first demonstrate the value themselves.

The Future of Oenosato Nature Farm

His efforts to make poultry farming a part of nature are rooted in his strong passion for Oe, where he started his ranch. Mr. Obara hopes to preserve this region for the future by recycling poultry farming and agriculture, and to convey its charms to more people than ever before.
The expansion of the farm is an opportunity to make people aware of this. The initial goal was 300,000 visitors per year, and that goal was achieved in 2018. Currently, they are aiming for 570,000 visitors per year, which is more than the population of Tottori Prefecture.
When it started, no one could have imagined such prosperity. However, Mr. Obara has achieved this much with his passion for poultry farming and his desire to make Oe more prosperous. His vitality will surely be a great force to change the future of poultry farming and the region.

The post Poultry farming close to nature. Mr. Riichiro Obara of “Oenosato Nature Farm” realizes his dream. first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Rewarding to deliver high quality laver

Maruyama Nori-ten, with its main store in Tsukiji, Tokyo, is a seaweed specialty store founded in 1854. The reason why 3,000 professionals trust Maruyama Nori is because of its consistently high quality. It is not easy to maintain stable quality because laver is a product of nature, but Maruyama Nori Store’s strength lies in its ability to always secure high quality raw materials and produce laver of consistent quality.
Akihiko Sakurai, who is in charge of purchasing, has been a connoisseur for 30 years and says, “The tension of meeting the strict demands of professionals is very rewarding. In order to meet the various demands of his customers, he visits major fishing grounds throughout Japan, carefully inspecting and tasting the fish before making his purchases. The three main production areas are Tokyo Bay, the Seto Inland Sea, and the Ariake Sea. In all of these areas, they purchase laver that has not yet fully sprouted and is in a soft state before it is picked.

The seaweed is grown in oyster shells and seeded into nets around fall, when the sea water temperature is between 14 and 18 degrees Celsius. Normally, the seaweed is picked around late November or early December when it has grown to a length of about 20 centimeters, but we stock mainly a very limited portion of 5 to 10 centimeters. By doing so, we are able to produce laver that melts in the mouth,” Sakurai says.

Bring out the unique flavor of the laver

The factory where the seaweed is processed is located in Tsukubamirai City, Ibaraki Prefecture. Hidetoshi Nakata, who toured the factory, was impressed by the attention to detail in the fire-roasting process. At the Maruyama Nori Store factory, the process takes more than twice as long as usual, with three and a half hours each of low and high temperatures for the flame-roasting process.
The temperature and time of firing are adjusted according to the salt content and thickness of the laver, as well as the temperature and humidity of the day.

The flavor of laver is not only determined by the skillful way it is grilled, but also by the characteristics of the region where it is grown. For example, laver from Tokyo Bay, which has long been known as “Asakusa nori,” is characterized by its sweetness with a hint of bitterness, moist and firm texture, and aroma that is enhanced when lightly roasted. Nori from the Seto Inland Sea is dark, glossy, and fragrant, and its resistance to tearing makes it ideal for thick rolls. The laver from the Ariake Sea is rich in umami ingredients, has a fresh aroma, and is both soft and crispy. Saga no Hashiri” takes advantage of such characteristics of laver from the Ariake Sea. Hashiri” is also a word meaning ‘in season,’ and it is one of the first products you should try to get to know the laver. Hikobei I,” made from specially selected weather-selected top-quality laver in the Hashiri series, is a signature product that has won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries Award three times. In addition, “Kon-Tobi,” mixed with natural green laver, has a bright aroma and is regarded as “the most similar to the laver of old.

Nakata was most impressed with suji aonori, a top-quality seaweed from the Yoshino River in Tokushima Prefecture. When you put it in your mouth, the unique flavor of green laver spreads out, followed by an elegant, herb-like, numbing bitterness that lingers in the mouth. Because of its scarcity and small harvest, it is said to be more expensive than sea urchin and is not widely available. Even a single mouthful of nori can be used in an infinite number of ways, depending on the region, variety, and degree of cooking, as well as on the ingredients used with it. It would be interesting to compare the different types of seaweed. Nori is a favorite of many chefs, but it has a lot of depth to it.

NIHONMONO – 「にほん」の「ほんも…

茶師十段の兄弟が盛り立てる「しもきた茶苑大山」／東京都世田谷区 – NIHONMONO 茶の香りをかぎ、味わいを確かめ、その産地や品種を見極める 「拝見に掛ける」あるいは「内質審査」と呼ばれる鑑定法

NIHONMONO – 「にほん」の「ほんも…

ブレンドしてさらにおいしく「お米マイスター」福士修三さん／東京都千代田区 – NIHONMONO お米マイスターのお店 東京千代田区の麹町にある「米マイスター麹町」というお店。「マイスター」という名前のとおり

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