Hirako Shuzo, brewing sake since 1861 in Ishinomaki City, home to the Sanriku and Kinkasan offshore fishing grounds—one of the world’s three great fishing areas. Their flagship brand, “Hitakami,” is a sake dedicated not to competing for flamboyance, but to enhancing sushi. Meticulous fermentation control, possible only in a small brewery, and sake born from land sharing the fishing grounds now earns deep trust from sushi chefs nationwide.

“Sake that pairs well with sushi” wasn’t the original goal

Hirako Shuzo’s “Hitakami” has won a total of 18 gold medals at the National New Sake Appraisal and has also been honored with the Miyagi Prefectural Governor’s Award (the highest prize) at the Miyagi Prefecture Sake Appraisal. However, the path to being recognized as “sake that pairs well with sushi” was far from smooth sailing.

The resolve that began with the declaration to “close the brewery”

Born as the son of the fourth-generation owner of Heikō Shuzō, Takahiro Hirai had no intention of taking over the family business after graduating from a university in Miyagi Prefecture. He instead found employment in Tokyo. However, a turning point came suddenly. In his second year as a working adult, his father came to Tokyo and announced, “We’re closing the brewery.”

At that time, the sake industry was under pressure from shochu and beer, with many breweries closing down. While Heikō Shuzō had long been beloved locally under the brand name “Shinzeki,” its performance had significantly declined. Working in the sake division of a wholesaler, Hirai began to recognize the appeal of his family business through his interactions with various breweries and sake companies.”I couldn’t accept why we had to close. Even if my father couldn’t do it, I could,” he strongly protested, deciding to take over the brewery. He returned to Ishinomaki in 1987, but achieving his ideal sake-making didn’t happen immediately.

Days of searching for a unique identity to create marketable sake

After the bubble burst, the sake industry was in the midst of fierce price competition. Mass production and mass distribution became the norm, leaving small regional breweries with no choice but to load their trucks and sell door-to-door. Though Hirai had taken over with high hopes, he often found himself wanting to turn away from the harsh reality, far tougher than he’d imagined.

Meanwhile, signs of a local sake boom were emerging, demanding answers to “how to deliver it” and “how to get chosen.” Existing products like “Shin-Sekki” couldn’t sustain the business, and he agonized constantly over the future. It was during this struggle that he arrived at “Hidaka-mi.”

“While randomly researching discontinued products, I noticed ‘Hidakami,’ a sake my father had brewed. I liked the sound of ‘looking up to the sun.’ Upon investigation, I learned it was a term deeply connected to this region. I felt it was fitting for us, brewing sake in Ishinomaki.”

The name “Hidaka-mi” embodies both the land’s history and their own resolve. They resolved to reintroduce this name, carrying both meanings. They then decided to streamline their product lineup and refresh their brand image, shifting from “Oyasan Seki” to “Hidaka-mi.”

Shifting Focus to “Sake That Pairs Well with Sushi”

In 1990, sales of the ginjo sake “Hidakami” began. At that time, the sake market tended to view ginjo status as a benchmark for quality, making it essential to first establish a foundation for recognition. Before articulating a clear concept, this was a tactical move to stand at the starting line where brewers could be fairly evaluated. They continued selling the sake while developing distribution channels, but the situation didn’t improve immediately.Faced with the reality of not being chosen, we continually pondered not just how to brew, but “what purpose this sake serves.”

Finding a path forward in its role to complement cuisine

The clue to becoming a “chosen sake” came when a colleague studying brewing at the Brewing Research Institute invited him to a sushi restaurant in Kanazawa. The sushi served there wasn’t part of a course meal; the sushi itself was the star. For Hirai, who was used to eating sushi within kaiseki cuisine, this experience was a shock. He was moved by how the rice and topping became one, melting in his mouth.When he asked the sushi chef to pair his sake with the sushi, he received an unexpected response.

“The aroma is good. But when paired with the sushi, the sake overpowers it.”

In that moment, he realized that a sake with a bold, floral aroma could overwhelm the delicate qualities of a dish like sushi. “Sake shouldn’t be the star; it should support the food,” he decided. “ I’ll make a sake that doesn’t interfere with sushi’s subtlety, but rather enhances it. “

The “ultra-dry junmai sake” he arrived at after years of effort

The sake aimed for as a perfect match for sushi was an ultra-dry junmai sake with a clean finish and no off-flavors. The goal was to not interfere with the delicate umami and flavors of seafood, while gently washing down the fat and the sweetness of the rice. To determine the ideal level of dryness for sushi, the brewer conveyed the vision, repeated the brewing process, and brought samples to sushi restaurants, enduring harsh critiques each time.

Through meticulous fermentation control and aging, we finally perfected “Hidakami Ultra Dry Junmai Sake” in 2008. It holds its character perfectly whether served chilled or warmed, enhancing the umami of fish.

Its soft mouthfeel and clean finish, especially its excellent pairing with red fish, earned it high praise as a dining sake. Born in Ishinomaki, where delicious seasonal fish are caught year-round, it adopted the catchphrase: “If you’re pairing with fish, it’s got to be Hidaka-mi.”

Facing adversity and refining quality

However, the Great East Japan Earthquake struck in 2011, with its epicenter in the Pacific off the Sanriku coast. “Just as we were getting started, the disaster hit,” recalls Mr. Hirai.

Moving forward with the support of sushi chefs

The Great East Japan Earthquake inflicted devastating tsunami damage on Hirako Shuzo. The koji room, shubo room, and fermentation room—essential for sake brewing—became unusable, plunging the brewery into an uncertain future. Yet Hirai remained forward-looking: “True recovery means evolving from this point.” He renovated the entire facility with stainless steel, establishing an environment enabling strict temperature and hygiene control. The brewery was reborn, capable of pursuing even more stable quality than before.

A major source of support during this rebuilding process came from the sushi chefs he had befriended while searching for “sake that pairs well with sushi.” They rushed to Ishinomaki with their teams to provide meals.

Continuing to Release New Products Without Pause

Born during this rebuilding effort was the Junmai Ginjo sake “Yasuke,” released in 2012.Off the Sanriku coast and Kinkasan Island, seafood with a delicate sweetness—such as shellfish and white-fleshed fish—is commonly landed. However, the “Hidakami Super Dry Junmai Sake” sometimes overemphasized this subtle umami. Thus, “Yasuke” was born, aiming to be a softer sake that enhances the natural sweetness of ingredients.

Its defining characteristic is the harmonious balance of a rich, full-bodied umami flavor and a sharp, clean finish. While offering a gentle taste, its transparent clarity allows it to slip away smoothly, ensuring it doesn’t overpower the lingering flavors of food. It is particularly renowned for its excellent pairing with sweet seafood like white fish and squid.At the “SAKE COMPETITION 2025,” which determines the world’s best commercially available sake, it won Bronze in the Junmai Ginjo category.

The sake’s name originates from the kabuki play “Yoshitsune Senbonzakura” and has historically been used in the entertainment district to refer to sushi. It revives this name in modern times, embodying respect for sushi culture and the connection with sushi artisans.

Through sake brewing, we aim to create moments of happiness for those who drink it.

“We want to be the unsung hero supporting the deliciousness of sushi,” says Mr. Hirai. For him, Hidaka-mi is not a sake that asserts itself. Based on the pairing concept where food and sake complement each other’s flavors, the focus is on enriching the sushi-eating experience itself.

While currently exporting overseas, they avoid indiscriminately expanding distribution channels. They engage only with chefs and restaurants who share their philosophy and approach them saying, “We want to use Hirai’s sake.”

Hidaka Shuzo, bearing the name of the sun-blessed land “Hidaka Country,” continues to challenge itself in sake brewing that can only be done here, in this land, in this brewery. Today, “Hidaka” is a sake you’ll almost certainly find in any sushi restaurant. We encourage you to try it as a sake that makes that moment of bringing sushi to your mouth an even more special time.

The post Takahiro Hirai, President of Hirako Shuzo, Pursuing “Sake That Pairs Well with Sushi” by the Rich Sea / Ishinomaki City, Miyagi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Idejōzōten, a long-established sake brewery with over 300 years of history dating back to the Edo period. Nestled at the northern foot of Mount Fuji, on the shores of Lake Kawaguchi, this brewery has continued making sake for generations. In recent years, it has embarked on a new venture: crafting its own unique whiskey. We spoke with the next-generation representative about his vision for preserving the taste of their traditional sake while embracing this new challenge, and about the future of this venerable brewery.

A Brewery by the Lake

Lake Kawaguchi, one of the Fuji Five Lakes at the foot of Mount Fuji, attracts many tourists every year. Nearby stands the long-established brewery “Ide Brewery,” which has been in operation since the mid-Edo period, over 300 years ago. We spoke with Takaoshi Ide, the 22nd-generation owner, who is currently involved in brewing and selling sake, and now also in the new venture of whisky production.

A brewery that began with soy sauce production

The origins of “Ide Brewery” date back to around 1700. Located on the northern foothills of Mount Fuji, this region boasts abundant spring and groundwater. However, the absence of rivers and the hard bedrock made digging irrigation channels difficult. Consequently, the land was unsuitable for supplying water to rice paddies and thus not ideal for growing rice, the key ingredient for sake.Conversely, soybean cultivation using rainwater flourished. Consequently, the 11th generation owner, Yogoemon Ide, opened a brewery to begin brewing soy sauce using these soybeans. Around 1850, the 16th generation owner, Yogoemon Ide, recognized the cool climate at an elevation of 850 meters and the abundant spring water flowing from Mount Fuji.He began sourcing rice from regions within Yamanashi Prefecture where rice cultivation was thriving and started brewing sake. This marked the beginning of sake production at Ide Brewery.

While it’s difficult to source all ingredients solely from rice grown in the northern foothills region, which has few paddy fields, the brewery now procures rice from various farmers nationwide, primarily within Yamanashi Prefecture. However, driven by the desire to “create sake that becomes a source of pride for local people,” they have recently expanded their offerings to include brands like the special junmai sake “Hokuroku,” made using “Tamasakae” rice from the northern foothills of Mount Fuji.However, no matter how carefully suppliers are selected, some variation in rice quality based on the year and region is unavoidable. “I believe a key technical point in sake brewing is how to minimize impact on the product and effectively deliver the brewery’s signature taste, the consistent flavor, to consumers,” said Ushun, revealing confidence in his company’s techniques.

Sake Pride of Ide Brewery

With “using Fuji Mountain spring water” as the overarching concept, Ushun states, “We strive to create pure sake that upholds that image.” The representative brand of Ide Brewery is “Kai no Kaiun” (Fortune of Kai). Around 1850, when sake brewing began, it coincided with the marriage of Princess Kazunomiya.Inspired by this, the sake developed with the wish “for fortune to open and lead to happiness” was named “Kaiun” (Good Fortune). Later, in 1985, Kaiun, beloved by people for many years, was renamed Kai no Kaiun to emphasize its regional identity as a Yamanashi brewery, and it continues to be brewed today. Its taste is smooth on the palate with a slightly dry flavor.It finishes cleanly, making it the perfect accompaniment to a meal.

Kai no Kaiun: Crisp and Unwavering

The quality of Iide Brewery’s sake is underpinned by the “Fuji Water” flowing directly beneath the brewery. This underground water, drawn from a point at approximately 1,100 meters above sea level, takes 80 years to pass through the volcanic layers of Mount Fuji. It is then naturally filtered through basalt layers and other formations, resulting in a refined, crystal-clear softness. This water is the very core of the “clean sake quality” the brewery strives for.”Refreshing and clean.” This fundamental principle remains unwavering. The pleasant sharpness of their flagship brand, “Kai no Kaiun,” harmonizes with the transparency of Fuji’s water, enhancing its appeal as a sake to enjoy with meals.

For fermentation, stable association-type yeast is used, prioritizing the straightforward expression of the ingredients’ flavors while minimizing off-flavors. Among these steps, Mr. Ushun emphasizes the “particularly crucial” practice of pasteurization immediately after pressing. Minimizing exposure to air and meticulous management to stabilize the sake are indispensable.After pasteurization, the sake is stored quietly in an environment with minimal temperature fluctuations. Meanwhile, the unpasteurized sake is kept year-round in refrigerators maintained below 0°C. This meticulous management, dedicated to preserving the delicate flavor, creates a sake of unwavering purity.

“Raw Unpasteurized Sake” You Can Only Taste Here

The shop “Sakaboushi,” attached to the brewery, offers a lineup including sake and foods made using sake lees, a byproduct of the brewing process. Additionally, since April 2010, tours of the brewery have been available to the general public.They also offer a limited-edition unpasteurized sake, “Special Junmai Nama Genshu ‘Kakoi’,” available only to visitors. During sake brewing, rice is fermented to produce alcohol. The liquid pressed from the mash (moromi), a mixture of fermented rice and sake, is called nama genshu.Most commercially distributed sake undergoes pasteurization (hi-ire) for sterilization and dilution with water to adjust alcohol content at this stage. However, Special Junmai Nama Genshu “Kakoi” skips these processes entirely. Experience the unadulterated alcohol sensation and fragrant rice flavor of “pressed and served as is.” Savor its smooth taste and the faint lingering ginjo aroma.

A New Challenge: Launching the “Fuji North Foot Distillery”

In July 2020, Ide Brewery embarked on a new challenge, beginning whisky production under the brand name “Fuji North Foot Distillery.” Globally, alcoholic beverages are broadly categorized into “brewed spirits,” made by fermenting raw materials like rice or barley, and “distilled spirits,” created by heating the fermented liquid, vaporizing it, cooling it, and condensing it back into liquid form.For whisky specifically, the distilled base spirit must undergo “aging” – long-term storage in wooden casks. For Ide Brewery, which had previously focused solely on brewing, the processes of “distillation” and “aging” were entirely new territory.

“We had knowledge and hands-on experience with fermentation, but distillation and aging were completely unknown to us. We truly started from scratch,”

“It took several years to finally establish our own unique production methods, but there’s still so much to learn,” Ushun shares, reflecting on the challenges. While his desire to make distilled spirits grew stronger, he hesitated about the significant capital investment required to start whisky production. What ultimately pushed him forward was the noticeable increase in inbound demand in recent years.Even if foreign visitors to the brewery primarily came for sake, wouldn’t they be even happier if the lineup included a whiskey originating overseas? It was this thought that led him to decide to take the plunge into whiskey production.

Whiskey made from rice by a sake brewery

“Japanese whiskey is currently popular worldwide. I believe one factor is its drinkability. While maintaining that, I want to express the unique character of Ide Brewery.”

Many of the aging barrels used for Japanese whiskey are made from Mizunara oak, which imparts an elegant, sweet aroma and a subtle sweetness to the whiskey. Beyond this “drinkability,” Ide Brewery’s whiskey incorporates an extra layer of craftsmanship. One example is using “sake yeast” for fermentation, instead of the typical whiskey yeast.Another is the use of rice, the same base ingredient as sake, instead of the more common corn, rye, or wheat. This adds a distinct sweetness derived from the rice, resulting in a whisky with a deeper, smoother mouthfeel. Behind these meticulous choices lies the desire to “create a whisky that only we can make.””A rice-based whiskey made by a sake brewery. I believe it possesses a unique character you won’t find elsewhere,” states Ushun proudly. Currently, they offer two products: the whiskey ‘Taijukai’, made with the aforementioned sake yeast and rice, and the ‘Fuji Kitakoku Distillery Highball’, which incorporates carbonated water and spring water to further enhance its “drinkability”.

“This product was created to widely announce our new venture: ‘Ide Jozoten, known for making sake, has started making whisky.’ We’re excited to see how the market responds.”

Creating an everyday sake that never gets old

Mr. Ushun, who will lead Ide Brewery as its 22nd-generation head in the future, shared his vision: “I want to continue making sake without straying from the core characteristics that define Ide Brewery’s current flavor profile: ‘refreshing clarity’ and ‘elegant purity.'” He also expressed his enthusiasm for focusing on brewing “Kai no Kaiun,” a standard sake.”While ‘special designation sake’ tends to draw attention across Japan these days, I also want to properly craft ‘ordinary sake,’ which has been deeply rooted in daily life for generations.”

Long before the “Sake Production and Quality Indication Standards” were established, “Kai no Kaiun” has been brewed without altering its flavor since 1850. It represents the unwavering identity of Ide Brewery. “It may not be flashy, but it has been cherished as a companion for ‘ordinary’ moments, like family meals at the daily dinner table. I hope it continues to be loved by people without ever growing tiresome.”There is an irreplaceable happiness in being able to be “ordinary,” in being able to live everyday life. The sentiment poured into “Kai no Kaiun” connects the history and spirit of Ide Brewery.

The Future of Ide Brewery

“Sake, representing Japanese culture, will continue to attract global attention given recent inbound demand. That’s precisely why I believe there’s ample need to keep producing ‘Kai no Kaiun,’ which connects time-honored traditions to the present. Building on this strong foundation, we aim to develop products like whiskey that meet modern needs. Times keep changing, after all.”

Ide Brewery’s sake-making journey began with soy sauce production, rooted in observing the region’s unique characteristics and blessings. Moving forward, the brewery will remain deeply connected to the community, steadfastly preserving its inherited flavors while flexibly adapting to changing times and embracing new challenges.

The post Traditional Sake and Innovative Whiskey Crafted with Fuji Spring Water: “Ide Brewery” / Minamitsuru District, Fujikawaguchiko Town, Yamanashi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Matsuya Sake Brewing Company is located in Fujioka City in southwestern Gunma Prefecture, bordering on Saitama Prefecture. The sake “Ruka,” which uses water from the Kannagawa and Ayukawa Rivers that gushes from the Mikabo Sankei mountain range, which is ideal for sake brewing, is attracting attention as an original sake created by the enthusiasm of the sixth generation brewer, Hiroyuki Matsubara, who is also the toji, the president of the company.

The Sixth Generation Envisions a New Gunma Sake

Fujioka City in Gunma Prefecture has a mild climate with mountainous terrain in the west and the Kanto Plain in the east. Matsuya Sake Brewery, which has been producing sake here since 1951, was originally founded as a rice wholesaler in Toyama Prefecture during the Edo period and began brewing sake in the late Meiji era. The brewery later moved to Fujioka City in Gunma Prefecture, which is close to the large market of Tokyo and blessed with a natural environment, and has been making sake that is suited to the locality of Gunma. After the previous master brewer retired due to old age, Hiroyuki Matsubara, the sixth generation brewer and president of the company, became the master brewer himself and has been involved in production ever since. With a production of only 250 koku, the small brewery produces sake that is made by hand in the traditional way, with a modern approach that is in tune with the times, offering a new kind of Gunma sake.

Returning to his hometown to fulfill the role of the eldest son, the sixth generation

Born and raised in a sake brewery, Matsubara was not interested in sake making as a child, and after graduating from college, he began working for a street brand to pursue a career in fashion. He decided to return to his parents’ home and take over the family brewery.

He said, “At one time I ran away from home to do something different from the family business, but since I am the eldest son, I decided to take over the family business. I had a sense of fulfillment from having done what I loved in the outside world, so I honestly thought I would return to my parents’ house and do my best.

At the time, however, we were in the midst of the shochu boom. The brewery mainly produced sake for celebratory occasions such as elections and weddings, but Mr. Matsubara felt that this alone would eventually make it difficult to run the business. However, he felt that this would eventually become too difficult to manage. Since he was taking over the brewery, he wanted to make sake that would be sold at restaurants, and he began to think about creating his own original sake at the brewery.

I want to make Gunma sake that fits the times.

Mr. Matsubara joined Matsuya Sake Brewery and began learning sake brewing from scratch at the brewery. At the same time, in order to create his own original sake, he went to study at the “Red Brick Sake Brewery” in Oji, Tokyo (now the National Institute of Sake Brewing), which has contributed to the development of sake brewing in Japan, and learned from senior brewers at Gunma Prefecture’s technical exchange meetings.

At the time, the generation older than myself favored dry sake, and many of the breweries around us were producing it. However, as the number of senior brewers I met at the engineer exchange meetings and the number of brewers of the same younger generation as myself increased, the trend of sake preferred in the market started to change. The fruity, aromatic sake that I like is getting more attention.

In his search for sake that suited the times, he went to restaurants recommended by a toji he respected, read books, and actively sought advice. He was advised that “marketing is important, but at the end of the day, your own feelings are important,” and he decided to create a fruity, fresh sake that was becoming popular and had a flavor he wanted to drink.

Deciding on a Brand Name from a Child’s Name Candidate

Mr. Matsubara decided that if he was going to make his own original sake, he wanted it to be fragrant and fruity, close to the kind of sake he had always dreamed of making. He imagined the taste of sake like “Jyushiyo” and “Houbiden,” which he had been shocked by when he drank them, and through a process of trial and error, he came up with the ideal name for the sake. When he brought the sake to the distributor, he was advised by the Matsuya Brewery to think carefully about branding if it was to be a new brand.

At the time, I had just had a baby, and I was thinking of a name for my child, and I found a name that fit the image of the sake I wanted to make, “Nagare Shine. We named our new sake brand “Ryu-ki”.

In addition to the existing brands “Tosei” and “Hiraijo,” the new brand name “Nagareki” has been added to the existing brands, and the brewery has launched its own brand. The words on the “Ryuki” label were written thousands of times by Mr. Matsubara himself, he says.

Sake brewing that takes advantage of the quality of the water

When making Nagareki, Mr. Matsubara’s first image was of a sake that would be enjoyed for its aroma. However, the sake produced in Fujioka did not have as much of an aroma as he had expected. The sake made in Fujioka, however, does not have as much aroma as one might expect, and yet it has a slightly citrusy, acidic flavor, he says.

We dig a well in the groundwater of the Kannryu and Ayukawa Rivers and use it as brewing water,” he said. The water is very soft, with a German hardness of about 6. For rice, we use Yamada-Nishiki and other sake rice suitable for our brewery, such as Niigata’s Gohyakumangoku.

At first, he had a hard time producing the sake he envisioned. As he repeatedly experimented with different types of rice and yeast and their compatibility with water based on various data, he gradually began to see changes in the taste of his sake. It was not the fragrant, fruity sake that he wanted to make, but he began to see the characteristics of Fujioka, a sake with a subdued aroma and a slightly citrus-like acidity that the region produced. I am now thinking of making “Ryuki” in a way that makes the most of this character.

Sake made with the same routine

Matsuya Brewery is a small brewery with only five employees, including part-time workers. Because of the small number of employees, the brewery takes a longer production period, and they are conscious of following the same routine every year to keep the rhythm of the brewing process.

Although we have a small number of employees, we produce sake in small batches, sticking to traditional handmade methods in order to produce higher quality sake. In particular, the pressing process is carried out slowly and under pressure using an old-fashioned machine that has been handed down from generation to generation, resulting in a clean and gentle sake quality.

The traditional technique of koji making, which easily affects the flavor of sake, is employed. Steamed sake rice is exposed outdoors and exposed to wind to evaporate the moisture, while controlling the temperature to the desired level. In order to allow the fermentation of unrefined sake to proceed slowly at low temperatures, the rice is pounded for more than 50 hours to allow the mycelium to reach the center of the rice, producing a clean koji that matches the quality of the sake.

He began to think about pursuing refined sake by using traditional koji making that is not influenced by trends, and by changing the flavor of the sake by combining the two.

Creating sake that can be handled by restaurants

In branding Ryuki, Mr. Matsubara says that he had a strong desire for the sake to be sold in restaurants. He also tried a different approach to the sales of sake than what the brewery had been doing until now.

We decided to limit the distribution of “Ryuki” to only those dealers who are willing to sell it to us. We chose only those distributors who were willing to sell our sake, and we are still doing business with them today.

Limited distribution has the advantage of increasing the value of the brand and differentiating it. However, it also has the disadvantage of not being able to market the product unless the distributors approve of it.

When Ryuki was just starting out, there were few dealers who would accept his brand, and he was sometimes turned away, told to “go study more. There was even a distributor who finally accepted our brand after three years of trying,” says Matsubara.

Ryuki,” a brand created with his own ingenuity

Nagare Kiki” was created with the image of a fresh, fruity flavor that would flow and shine in the mouth, and it is now turning out to be exactly what the name implies.

There are still things I need to work on, but after 17 years of making “Ryu-Kiki,” I think I’ve gotten about 50% closer to what I’m aiming for,” he said. I think I am getting better and better, but in order to raise it another 50 percent, I think I need more experience, more ideas, and more effort than I am capable of at the moment.

Two years after taking over the Matsuya Brewery, he launched his own brand, Ryuki, which became popular mainly among restaurants, just as Mr. Matsubara had hoped, and is now gaining fans among the general public as well. The experience of creating an original brand from scratch, which Mr. Matsubara has been dealing with ever since he became toji, has had a positive impact on the other sake that Matsuya Brewery has been making for many years, and the future of this small brewery is beginning to look brighter.

The post We want to create an original brand. Matsuya Sake Brewery’s passion for “Ryuki” / Fujioka City, Gunma Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Tochigi City is located in the south of Tochigi Prefecture. Iinuma Meikozo is located in the northern part of the city, in a peaceful area surrounded by fields in Nishikata-machi. Iinuma Meinjo is a sake brewery that produces straightforward sake, focusing on two brands: “Suginamiki,” which is well-loved by the locals, and “TATARA,” which focuses on unfiltered, unpasteurized sake.

The head of the family for generations gives the sake a new name.

Tetsunori Iinuma, president of Iinuma Meikozo Co. He himself is a master brewer.

Iinuma Meinjo was founded more than 200 years ago in 1811. The founder, Mr. Iwajiro, left his birthplace in Niigata and trained at a sake brewery in Utsunomiya before setting up his own business here.

As the brewery has continued to produce sake over the generations, various brands have been created. Currently, three brands remain: “Fuki,” a regular sake created by his grandfather; “Suginamiki,” created by his father; and “Sugata,” created by Mr. Iinuma, now the ninth generation, of which “Suginamiki” and “igata” are the two main brands produced.

Suginamiki” is named after the Nikko cedar trees that impressed Mr. Iinuma so much that he named his sake after them.

Iinuma’s father, Kunitoshi, was the brewer. Kunitoshi often visited Nikko on business trips to liquor stores.

On the east side of Nishikata-machi, where Iinuma Meinjo is located, is the “Nikko Reiheishi Kaido,” a road that was taken by the imperial envoys (Nikko Reiheishi) to Nikko Toshogu during the Edo period (1603-1868). Even today, many people take this road when going to Nikko, as did my father Kunitoshi.

As this road heads north toward Nikko, it passes through the Nikko Cedar Namiki Kaido, a road lined with some 12,000 cedar trees on both sides of the road. Kunitoshi was impressed by the grandeur of the cedar trees every time he passed along the road. He suddenly realized that there was no sake named after this wonderful landmark in Tochigi Prefecture, so he decided to sell a sake named “Suginamiki.

Suginamiki, created by Niigata’s Echigo Toji, has a light, dry taste. It is made with locally grown rice such as “Yamada-Nishiki” and “Yume-Sarara” produced by local contract farmers, as well as with yeast produced in the prefecture.

To keep the brewery going, Iinuma himself went into sake brewing.

The current president, Tetsunori Iinuma, joined Iinuma Meinjo in 1994 after working outside of the prefecture. At first, he was not directly involved in sake production, such as bottling and delivery. However, the toji (master brewer) who had come from Niigata was getting old, and Mr. Iinuma felt that “without local sake brewers, we would be losing our edge. He hired locally, but after less than a year, he was forced to resign.

Mr. Iinuma said, “Please don’t quit.

Please don’t quit. I will join the brewery, and we will start from the kamaya (the name given to the person who washes and steams rice in the sake brewing process) together.

This was the moment when the brewery owner himself decided to start sake brewing.

Freshly pressed sake tastes the best. The commitment to unfiltered, unfiltered, unfiltered sake

Another concern of Mr. Iinuma, who has returned to Iinuma Meikozo, is that people will think that “Suginamiki” is a Nikko sake. He wanted to make a brand with a local origin, and that is what “Sagata” is.

The name was taken from the “Sugata-mi no Ike” pond in Manago, Nishikata Town, which is associated with the legend of Obikuni, the eight hundred bishop nun. The original “Sugata” was a junmai ginjo produced by the Echigo toji, which involved filtration, hi-ire, and addition of water after the sake was pressed. While this was naturally delicious, Mr. Iinuma felt more strongly that “sake tastes best when it is pressed as it is! He said, “Unfiltered nama sake tastes better when it is pressed.

Iinuma decided that he wanted to convey the taste of unfiltered, unpasteurized sake, and decided to make mainly unfiltered, unpasteurized sake without filtration, heating, or adding water after pressing. This was about 20 years ago.

Sake brewing using not only local but also Hokkaido rice

Currently, Suginamiki is made with locally grown rice such as Yamadanishiki, Gohyakumangoku, and Yume Sarara, all of which are grown by local farmers, but in addition to local rice, Aiyama from Hyogo Prefecture, Omachi from Okayama Prefecture, and Hokkaido rice such as Ginpu, Comet, and Kitashizuku are also used. Hokkaido rice is also used.

The reason why they actively use Hokkaido rice is because the owner of a Hokkaido izakaya, who likes “TATARA” and is a close friend of theirs, mentioned to me that he would like to try “TATARA” made with Hokkaido rice.

I thought Hokkaido rice might be too hard, but if you make it right, the flavor comes out right and it tastes great,” says Iinuma. Iinuma says that pumping water for the rice requires some experience and know-how, but “it produces a beautiful flavor.

Using the Blessings of Nikko’s Rivers in Sake

Iinuma Meikozo’s water is said to come from the underground water of the Oya River that flows through Nikko. The Oya River, which originates in the majestic mountains of Nikko, is a first-class river that flows through Nikko City via Kegon Falls, one of the three most famous waterfalls in Japan, and then joins the Kinugawa River.

The subterranean water pumped up from 14m below the ground is soft water, and sake made with this water has a rich aroma and flavor, and is mild on the palate. When a local company cooperated in a water quality survey, it was reported that “the water here is similar in composition to spring water from Mt.

For those who seek this taste and continue to drink it

Most of the sake produced under the brand name of “TATAJI” is “unfiltered, unblended sake. The fresh, umami, and rich taste of unfiltered nama sake is attractive, but its richness and high alcohol content may divide consumers’ tastes.

While some sake breweries have reduced the alcohol content or lightened the flavor to make it less heavy, Iinuma says, “We have to make our sake ‘straight’.

These days, there are a lot of sweet sake with a refreshing taste, but there are always people who want a more “harsh” sake. I think that’s why we have a sake brewery like ours.

Sake brewed “straightforwardly,” without being influenced by trends

The current production volume is approximately 550 koku (about 55,000 bottles), with about 300 koku of “Suginamiki,” a light, dry sake made with locally grown rice and yeast, and about 250 koku of “Sugata,” an unfiltered, unpasteurized sake with a robust aroma and flavor that makes full use of the characteristics of carefully selected rice, including rice grown in Hokkaido.

When we asked Mr. Iinuma what the future holds for the brewery, he answered humbly, “We have no plans to greatly increase the production volume, but to sell out what we make and keep the brewery going as long as possible.

Every year, Mr. Iinuma sends samples to sake retailers, saying, “If you really like it, please order it. Iinuma’s sales approach is just as earnest as his sake brewing.

Iinuma-san’s expression is smiling from start to finish as he says, “I want to continue to make sake that people will recognize as Iinuma’s own when they drink it.

His expression is always smiling. He is unpretentious and gentle, yet you can suddenly sense the strength of his core. It is as if Mr. Iinuma himself is the embodiment of the sake he produces.

Sake made in a land blessed with abundant nature, air, and water. This earnestness is the reason why Iinuma Meikozo’s sake continues to be loved.

The post Straightforward and serious sake brewing in the future. Iinuma Meizo produces unfiltered unpasteurized sake “Sugata” / Tochigi City, Tochigi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Approximately 90% of the sake produced here is consumed locally or in northern Tochigi Prefecture, and even within Tochigi Prefecture, this sake, known as “Kyokuko,” is rarely seen in the southern part of the prefecture. It is carefully crafted using underground water from the Mumo River, which flows from the Yamizo Mountains, and high-quality rice from the local area, under the cool climate.

A historic sake brewery using the high-quality water flowing from Mount Yamizo.

Watanabe Shuzo is a sake brewery located in the mountainous village of Suzaki in Otawara City, Tochigi Prefecture, formerly part of Kuroha Town. Just a 10-minute drive away lies the border with Ibaraki Prefecture. Though a small brewery producing local sake, its history is long, dating back to 1892 (Meiji 25). The first generation, who was part of the Echigo Toji, a group of sake brewers originating from Niigata Prefecture, began making sake in a farmer’s barn. In 1912 (Meiji 45), the brewery moved to its current location, and since the new site was east of the previous one, they named the brand “Kyokuko” (meaning “rising sun”), hoping for good fortune.

A rare sake that is hard to find even in Tochigi Prefecture

“Sake loved by the local community is ‘local sake.’ It is not just sake made in a particular region,” is the company motto. The fifth-generation master brewer, Hidenori Watanabe, leads the sake brewing process.

The philosophy of “a sake rooted in the community and loved by locals” is reflected in Watanabe Shuzo’s distribution. While the company currently produces up to 900 koku, 90% of it is sold locally, with most of it within a 30-minute drive. Since one koku is equivalent to approximately 100 one-liter bottles, this means that 81,000 one-liter bottles are sold within a 30-minute radius.

Highly regarded nationwide, it represents the local area of Otawara.

This small sake brewery is located in a region famous for its Yagami cedar trees. Recently, it has achieved remarkable results at the 103rd Southern Toji Self-Brewed Sake Appraisal Competition, where 312 ginjo sakes and 325 junmai sakes were submitted by 140 breweries nationwide. The brewery won first place in the ginjo sake category and second place in the junmai sake category. In fact, it also won first place in the ginjo sake category at the 100th competition, making it a well-known sake among connoisseurs.

Among the award-winning sake at the 103rd Nanbu Toji Jizake Sake Appraisal Competition, the ginjo sake was made using 100% Yamada Nishiki rice from Sakuyama in Otawara. “We made this sake to help promote Otawara,” said the brewer. The fact that the region, known for its rice production, is also highly regarded for the quality of its sake rice is truly remarkable.” Otawara is the leading rice-producing area in Tochigi Prefecture. This sake truly embodies the essence of Otawara and is a representative sake of the region.

Sake crafted to meet customer needs

When asked what his main product is, Mr. Watanabe replies, “Nowadays, it’s pure rice sake.” He considers the ease of sale for retailers and restaurants and strives to create products that reflect the seasons. He also creates products from the perspective of the drinker, such as “This should be served unpasteurized.” As a result, numerous brands under the “Asahiko” label are distributed and loved by local people.

I love research. I want to continue researching and trying new things.

Mr. Watanabe graduated from the Department of Brewing, Faculty of Agriculture, Tokyo University of Agriculture. At university, he researched “yeast bubbles.” He still has a strong desire to continue his research and even has yeast research equipment in his brewery. It is rare for a sake brewery in a rural area to have its own research laboratory, and his passion for sake research is evident in his kijo-shu (sake made with yeast and rice wine).

Popular kijo-shu developed through research

While attending Tokyo University of Agriculture, Watanabe told his professor that he wanted to study kijo-shu, but was told that it was outdated. Kijo-shu is a type of sake made by using sake instead of water, resulting in a unique, sweet, and viscous texture.

Unable to give up on his research, Watanabe returned to his own brewery and reached out to a popular kijo-shu brewery to seek guidance. Furthermore, he believed that simply replicating what he had been taught would make him a copycat, so he decided to challenge himself by creating a fresh take on kijo-shu.
Drawing on his passion for research, he meticulously selected the rice used for kijo-shu and discovered that a variety with low gluten content (glutenin) resulted in a “sweet yet crisp, casual flavor.”

The sake “Kijōshu Hyaku” born through this process is now a popular product of Watanabe Shuzo. When something catches his interest or an idea comes to mind, he doesn’t hesitate to try it. His relentless pursuit of taste and quality is the strength of Watanabe Shuzo.

If something interests you, give it a try.

Watanabe’s challenge is not limited to “Asahi Ko Kijōshu Hyaku,” which was born out of his passion for researching Kijōshu.

“I want to use local water and rice, and I want to use local containers to brew the sake. I also want people to know about products made with Yagami cedar, which is also a local product.” This sentiment led to the creation of another product. The sake is brewed in barrels made from cedar from the mountains behind the Yagami region, which is also a cedar-producing area.

Watanabe’s research into sake knows no bounds, as he continues to challenge himself every year with questions like, ”If that can be done, what about this?”

The post Watanabe Sake Brewery continues to pursue new flavors through relentless effort and research / Otawara City, Tochigi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

A long-established sake brewery founded at the end of the Edo period

The town of Ryuoh, where the Matsuse Sake Brewery is located, lies between Lake Biwa and the Suzuka Mountains to the east. Surrounded by mountains on all sides, Shiga Prefecture is actually a hidden rice-producing region, and has long been a sake brewery, with more than 30 breweries scattered throughout the prefecture.

The history of the Matsuse Sake Brewery dates back to the Edo period (1603-1868), when it was involved in the sake brewing business from the mid-1600s, but temporarily closed down due to the turmoil at the end of the Edo period. Since then, the company has continued to brew sake that makes the most of nature’s bounty, using carefully selected sake rice andbrewing water pumped up from 120 meters underground.

In recent years, the brewery has won gold medals at the National New Sake Competition for three consecutive years and was selected as the sake for JAL’s international business class flights, and has become a well-known sake brewery in Japan and abroad.

Matsu no Tsukasa, a famous sake representing Shiga Prefecture

Matsunoshi ” is the only brand of sake brewed at Matsuse Shuzo. The brewery produces more than a dozen varieties of sake, varying the rice used, the degree of rice polishing, the amount of water, and the yeast. The name “Matsu no Tsukasa” is a combination of a 200-year-old male pine tree that once stood on the property and “Matsuse,” the founder’s family name. The word “Tsukasa” means “most gallant figure,” and the name expresses the company’s wish that its sake will be like this majestic pine tree. The sake brewed with soft, fluffy water from the Suzuka Mountains and 100% contract-grown sake rice has a freshness and dignity that has made it extremely popular in the Kansai region, especially in Shiga Prefecture.

I want to grow Yamadanishiki produced in Ryuoh.

The distinctive feature of the Matsuse Sake Brewery is its commitment to rice. Hearing that the secret lies in the soil, we asked Tadayuki Matsuse, the sixth-generation owner of the brewery, to show us the rice fields in his hometown of Ryuoh, where the sake rice is grown.

Until about 40 years ago, we used to make sake using Nipponharu rice, but we realized that we could not continue to do so if we wanted to make sake that would continue to be drunk in the future, so we began to use Yamada Nishiki, which at that time was called the “king of sake rice. Yamada-Nishiki, the “king of sake rice” at that time. Yamada-Nishiki was popular and hard to find, so we asked farmers to grow it in our hometown of Ryuoh to see if we could harvest it, and that’s how it all started.

Yamada-Nishiki is mainly grown in Hyogo Prefecture. Yamada-Nishiki is tall and easily falls over and is susceptible to disease and pests, so its cultivation in other areas had not progressed well. Even when they did start growing it, the climate, water, and soil were different. Even if the same growing methods were used, the rice would not be the same as in Hyogo. There were years when the rice ears fell over due to wind and did not produce well, and he realized that it was not a simple matter.

Different soil makes sake taste different.

Even so, through repeated trial and error with local farmers, they realized that even within the same town of Ryuoh, the Yamada Nishiki produced in different rice paddies differed. Rice grown in clay fields that are well watered and fertilized produces a fuller, heavier rice, while rice grown in gravel fields that are well drained produces a firmer, more delicate rice. When sake is brewed using the same brewing method, the full rice produces a dense, voluminous sake, while the delicate rice produces a pleasantly light sake with a floral aroma.

We wanted to somehow increase the amount of Yamada-Nishiki, so we planted it throughout Ryuoh Town, which led to interesting results. Just by having different soils, the taste of sake can change so much. I think it was also good to realize that the taste is different from that of Hyogo Prefecture and unique to this area. It was then that I began to think that it is our job to pay attention to the individuality of the land and convey its value.

Matsuse Sake Brewery currently brews sake in separate tanks for each soil type and sells it under different labels.

Azolla,” a symbol of clean rice paddies

Around 2000, the company began to engage in pesticide-free cultivation. Shiga Prefecture, where most of the rivers in the prefecture flow into Lake Biwa, has a high level of environmental awareness among its residents, and for six consecutive years has boasted the largest area devoted to environmentally friendly agriculture in Japan. Mr. Matsuse himself has a strong desire to protect Lake Biwa, and at the same time, he wanted to express the goodness of the rice paddies as they are, without any extra work, in his sake.

He also wanted to express in his sake the quality of the rice paddies as they are, with no extra work done to them. The azolla blocks light into the water, making it difficult for new weeds to grow.

Sake made with pesticide-free rice has a different power. It has a clear, clean minerality in the aroma. Perhaps it is the awareness that the sake is made from rice grown in clean rice paddies, but above all, I feel that it is sake that should be drunk. Just like rice cultivation, sake cultivation is also an agricultural activity,” smiles Mr. Matsuse.

Sake brewing that makes the most of the rice’s unique characteristics

The man in charge of sake brewing at Matsuse Brewery is Keizo Ishida, who has served as toji, the chief brewer of sake, for the past 10 years.

When I joined the brewery in 2001, the Yamada-Nishiki variety itself had great value, and the best was from Hyogo Prefecture. Then, how about the Yamada-Nishiki from Ryuoh? That was the extent of my understanding of the Yamada-Nishiki of Ryuoh Town. However, as we brewed and compared each farmer, we began to realize that the taste of sake made from sandy soil is different from that of sake made from clay soil. It was a minute difference, but there was an absolute difference that did not change no matter how many times we did it,” he said.

The taste of sake is largely determined by human hands, such as the degree of rice polishing and the brewing process, and Mr. Ishida felt uncomfortable with the idea of changing the taste of sake one after another to suit personal tastes and trends, and then being told, “This is our local sake. He brews rice grown in a natural environment as neutrally as possible. He says he wants the resulting sake to show the differences in the soil, climate, and environment.

The history of the brewery creates the taste of the sake.

Matsuse’s brewery is neither air-conditioned nor equipped with state-of-the-art equipment. The walls and ceilings are coated with persimmon tannin for preservation and protection against insects, and the building is carefully cared for and used. Mr. Ishida calls these warehouses ” antiques ” because of the beautiful luster and candy-colored tints they have acquired. Generally, antiques are objects to be held in one’s hands, such as vessels and furniture, to be enjoyed with the eyes and cherished. It is a rare happiness to be able to work in the midst of antiques and be surrounded by them. The history of the brewery and the wisdom and thoughts of its predecessors may also be important factors in determining the taste of sake.

Returning to the starting point and simplifying

Mr. Ishida says that the best sake is made at this brewery using local rice and water. He wants to keep the sake as neutral as possible so that the character of the land can be expressed. With this in mind, he started the ” kimoto” brewing method, which was mainly practiced in the Edo period (1603-1868) to encourage fermentation by the power of nature.

I believe that if you only aim for recognition in the sake competition, you will only be able to think in an industrial way. I believe that is not good. In my current process, I don’t add yeast or lactic acid, and I don’t do much analysis such as measuring acidity. Even so, it is still possible to make sake. Sake brewing was originally done with pesticide-free rice, using the “ikuhashi-zukuri” method. If we can go back to the techniques and thoughts of the people who faced this process, I believe we can express craft in the true sense of the word.

What kind of sake is Mr. Ishida aiming for? He replied, “It should have a familiar texture. It should be a sake with a familiar taste, one that you can naturally feel when you drink it and think, ‘That’s the usual taste.

Blue” series brewed by soil

The “Blue” series is made from Yamada-Nishiki produced in Ryuoh, and brewed according to different soils. This junmai daiginjo has the flavor and richness typical of rice, and when compared, it is easy to see how the expression of the rice changes depending on the soil in the rice paddies where the rice was grown. If you look at the brand page “Origins of Blue” and learn about the differences in soil and the scenery seen from the rice paddies before drinking, you will feel as if you can even feel the wind blowing in the area and the sound of swaying ears of rice.

The brewery selects a few regions each year, so you can enjoy the combination of each year’s wines and compare them with each other.

AZOLLA” expresses nature

AZOLLA” is an evolution of the “Blue” series and symbolizes Matsunoshi ‘s commitment to rice.

It is made from Yamada-Nishiki grown locally in Ryuoh, without any pesticides or chemical fertilizers during the growing period. The name “Azolla” was chosen to symbolize the pesticide-free nature of the brewery.

The clear, gentle, yet dense flavor is considered ” one of the ideal forms ” of Matsu no Tsukasa.

Grateful for the land, we create a taste that can only be found here.

Matsuse says that he is still searching for what makes Ryuoh unique. I want to use pesticide-free rice grown in Ryuoh to make sake that people around the world will say tastes great. I am happy to continue to do so,” he says, his face calmly and happily gazing into a future he has yet to see.

The post As the Soil Changes, So Does the Taste of Sake: The Challenge of Matsuse Sake Brewery to Express the Characteristics of the Land with Sake / Ryuoh Town, Shiga Prefecture, Japan first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Sugihara Sake Brewery, the smallest sake brewery in Japan

The “smallest sake brewery in Japan” is located in Ibi-gun, Gifu Prefecture. The company was founded in 1892 and produced only 80 koku in fiscal year 2021, which translates to only 8,000 bottles. In fiscal year 2021, the company produced a mere 80 koku, or 8,000 bottles per day. The sake produced here, “Ibi,” has become a rare and difficult-to-find sake, partly due to the absolute small amount that is distributed. The brewery is headed by Keiki Sugihara, the fifth-generation head brewer and toji (master brewer) of the brewery. In fact, until just 15 years ago, he was a complete amateur, not even knowing what sake rice was.

Why don’t you make sake when your family is a sake brewer? He was a member of the Japan Overseas Cooperation Volunteers (JOCV) at the time. These words from a colleague of Mr. Sugihara, who was working overseas as a Japan Overseas Cooperation Volunteer (JOCV) at the time, have stuck in the back of his mind for a long time. From a young age, he saw his parents struggling to keep their sake brewery afloat, and he did not want to take over the brewery, but when it was finally on the brink of bankruptcy, he decided to protect this traditional Japanese industry. However, he had no knowledge of the difference between regular rice and sake rice, and had no experience in sake brewing. And, of course, he failed. Still, he had no choice but to sell his sake, so he made a determined attempt to sell it by going door-to-door in Tokyo and Osaka, but none of the sake shops would take him up on his offer.

However, one liquor store told him, “It doesn’t taste good yet and it won’t sell, but when we make good sake, we will surely buy all of it. So don’t tell me you’re quitting.” This encouraged him. Mr. Sugihara wanted to make something special if he was going to do it anyway, so he set his sights on creating “true local sake” by focusing on locally grown ingredients. He also wanted to produce rice that suited the local area, so he looked around for people who would help him grow rice. It was not easy for a small sake brewery to grow its own rice, but local volunteers who recognized Mr. Sugihara’s enthusiasm for sake brewing offered to help. Together with a master rice breeder, who is said to be the leading rice breeder in Gifu, and rice farmers who were willing to help him grow the rice, they focused on brewing sake with rice suited to the local climate, and repeatedly crossbred and established the best sake rice, “Yamada-Nishiki,” and “Wakamizu” suited to the local climate. Six years after Mr. Sugihara returned to the brewery, the first “Imi” was finally born. The sake rice was named “Ibi no Homare” and was certified as Gifu Prefecture’s sake rice for brewing in 2021. This was 10 years after the start of development.

Phantom Sake will be updated.

The characteristics of “Imi” are its floral aroma and mellow sweetness. And it continues to evolve in response to marketability. Ibi-no-Honor” is an ongoing process of breeding, and sake brewing is updated according to the year’s sake rice crop, climatic conditions, and food trends. I didn’t know anything about it, so I had no fixed ideas and was able to honestly adopt what I thought was good. It is truly sake brewed by everyone,” says Sugihara. His goal for the future is to become a model case for small sake breweries. This is because there are many advantages unique to small business. For example, because the production volume is small, there is no need for sales and advertising, and the company can concentrate on brewing sake. And they can control quality within their reach. If we can set a good example of how to achieve what we want by deciding what not to do, it will encourage other small sake breweries to do the same. We can do this because we don’t have fixed concepts. We can take on challenges because we are small.

The road to not pandering to the currents of the world is a steep one, and it is not an easy one. But if you don’t give up, you will be rewarded. Mr. Sugihara, who smiles and says, “I am the type of person who grows when I am praised,” has started distributing sake to liquor stores that have given him encouragement and encouragement.

NIHONMONO – 「にほん」の「ほんも…

神に捧げ、民に愛されるにごり酒「三輪酒造」／岐阜県大垣市 – NIHONMONO どぶろくに近いにごり酒を求めて 岐阜県北部、庄川（しょうがわ）流域にある白川郷。日本の原風景とも称される合掌造

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Traditional sake brewing is the best method of production.

The oldest yeast used in sake brewing in Japan today is “Kyokai No. 6. Aramasai Shuzo is known as the brewery that created this yeast. Aramasa Brewery has undergone various reforms. The brewery uses only rice grown in Akita Prefecture, insists on pure rice production, uses no industrial additives, and ferments its sake in wooden vats.
It has been 14 years since Mr. Yusuke Sato, the 8th generation head of Aramasa Sake Brewery, who has been responsible for all such reforms, returned to the brewery. It has been 10 years since the release of “No.6” (Number Six), which Mr. Sato worked on and which has now become the signature series of the Aramasa Sake Brewery. Mr. Sato looks back and says that he has just kept on running, realizing the many things he wanted to do before returning to the brewery, such as making thoroughly good products.

Mr. Sato quit his previous job and returned to the brewery because he wanted to make really good sake, and he has been striving to make the ultimate sake without making any compromises. In the beginning, people around him thought he was “doing something unusual,” he laughs. He wanted to make real sake, so he read a lot of literature and went to other breweries to study. His search for what it takes to make the best sake led him to traditional methods. They are all labor-intensive and difficult methods. The currents of the times have simplified these methods in the pursuit of efficiency and rationality. What at first glance may appear to be a return to the old ways, when you get down to it, all of it makes sense, and just because it is tedious is not a reason not to do it. It was a matter of course for Mr. Sato, who strove for perfection in sake brewing, sometimes without regard for profit. The cost of exploring traditional sake brewing and making it taste as good as possible is enormous,” he said. This is something we have no choice but to do. We’re trying to evolve to preserve the traditional methods while also preserving the traditional industries associated with them.” says Sato.

Challenging sake from rice cultivation

The next innovation is sake brewing, which begins with the pesticide-free cultivation of rice.
In 2013, the company began outsourcing sake rice cultivation to contract farmers on a made-to-order basis, based on their requests. However, again, the process was too time-consuming and labor-intensive, and not many farmers were willing to cooperate. They decided to start growing their own rice.
Aramasa Sake Brewery’s pesticide-free rice field is located in Uyashinai, Kawabe district, Akita City. It is a place rich in nature, where the beautiful Omata River flows through the mountains and enriches the village.
In 2018, sake made from rice grown without agricultural chemicals at the company’s own field was shipped for the first time to the general public in limited quantities under the name “Noumin Geijutsu Kaihon” (Introduction to Farmers’ Arts). The sake, named in homage to Kenji Miyazawa’s memo-like work “Noumin Geijutsu Kairon Aminyo,” is attracting attention along with new developments at Aramasa Brewery.
The Aramasa Brewery’s reforms continue, as the concluding words of Miyazawa’s “What we need is a transparent will, a great power and heat that envelopes the galaxy,” lead us to the next step.

NIHONMONO – 「にほん」の「ほんも…

国有形文化財の建物で醸される老舗蔵「両関酒造」湯沢の力水が生む美麗な酒／秋田県湯沢市 – NIHONMONO 秋田県南部に位置する湯沢市にある「両関酒造」の歴史は明治7年（1874年）に始まる。湯沢のメインストリートに建つ風情漂う建物はその内4つが秋田県で初めて国の登録有形文…

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Seeking nigori sake close to doburoku

Shirakawa-go is located in the Shogawa River basin in northern Gifu Prefecture. In this area, where the Gassho-zukuri style villages are still preserved, a grand doburoku festival is held every year from the end of September to October to pray for fertility, safety of the family, and peace in the village. Doburoku has been used as a ritual drink in Shirakawa Village for about 1,300 years and has been served to the people in each district. Doburoku is made by fermenting rice, rice bran, and water without filtering the moromi, and is characterized by its cloudy white appearance. It has been loved by many people for its creamy, rich, and wild flavor, but it was forbidden to sell it because there were no opportunities to drink it outside of Shinto rituals. However, there were no opportunities to drink it outside of Shinto rituals, and it was forbidden to be sold. Many people, fascinated by its appearance and addictive taste, wanted to somehow make it a souvenir of Shirakawa-go so that they could take it home with them.
The previous generation was asked by the future mayor of Shirakawa Village to create a nigori sake similar to doburoku that could be taken home as a souvenir, and about 45 years ago the production of nigori sake “Shirakawa-go” began,” says Kenji Miwa, the 8th generation owner of Miwa Shuzo. In fact, nigori sake is difficult to handle because it leaves the moromi, which is solid, behind, making it easy for the machine to get dirty. Even among sake breweries near Shirakawa-go, there were very few that actively made nigori sake at that time. By chance, the Miwa Sake Brewery in Ogaki City, 100 kilometers away from Shirakawa-go, decided to play a role in making nigori sake to reproduce the doburoku of Shirakawa-go.

Founded in 1837, the Miwa Sake Brewery had more than enough expertise in sake brewing, but the road to commercialization was not an exception. It was necessary to create a sake that could be sold year-round within the definition of sake. After much research and study, they managed to create a nigori sake with a flavor similar to Shirakawa Village’s doburoku, a type of sake that is sold all year round. Miwa Shuzo’s nigori sake, “Shirakawa-go,” became a popular souvenir of Shirakawa Village, as originally planned.
What was unexpected was that its popularity was not limited to the Shirakawa Village area. Sake lovers who heard of the brewery’s reputation began to clamor for “Shirakawa-go,” and the sales channels expanded nationwide. As a result, the ratio of nigori-zake to sake production at Miwa Shuzo has reached 9:1, and the company has become known not only throughout Japan but also to sake lovers overseas as a brewery specializing in nigori-zake.

Nigori Sake, a rare treat in the world, is a part of Japan’s food culture

A rich nigori with concentrated original flavor of rice. This is the reason why “Shirakawa-go” is favored by so many people among the many nigori sake brands. The taste of nigori sake is strongly, deeply, and richly etched in the memory of those who taste it. However, the mash, which is the basis of nigori, is as rampant as a bull in a rodeo, and the role of the cowboy in a four-stage rodeo is aptly described as a “four-step rodeo. If the four-stage brewing process, which plays the role of a cowboy, can control it well, the result is a sake with the perfect combination of sake-like sharpness and rice flavor, but a mistake can cause it to become too active and explode. However, one wrong move and the sake can explode. It is also difficult to produce a stable nigori sake throughout the year, as the flavor can easily change. However, the Miwa Sake Brewery has been able to maintain the taste of moromi above a certain level through a unique process called “hi-ire,” which is an exquisite combination of complex factors such as the degree of heat treatment and fermentation, and the five senses of the toji (master brewer). The exploration of nigori sake has continued, and now the company has created sparkling and frozen types, and continues to create new types of nigori sake.
In fact, nigori sake and doburoku, which contain solid ingredients, are rare in the world and unique to Japanese food culture. In addition to the sweetness, sourness, miscellaneous flavors, and umami, it has a unique texture and potage-like feel on the tongue. It is refreshing to see how the unique “habit” of “Shirakawa-go” grabs the hearts of sake lovers. This must be because they have gone back to the basics of sake and created a new original.

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We want to make local sake in Tokyo.

Tokyo also has sake that can be called locally brewed. The Toshimaya Sake Brewery in Higashimurayama City has had a brewery in the area since 1937, and has continued to brew sake rooted in the local community, such as “Kin-nikkai” and “Okunokami” to celebrate the Emperor Meiji’s silver wedding ceremony.

The history of the brewery dates back more than 400 years ago to 1596, at the Kamakura riverbank. In 1596, more than 400 years ago, Toshimaya Juemon I started a sake bar in the corner of a liquor store, which became very prosperous. This is said to be the origin of “kaku-uchi,” or corner drinking, and at the same time, he started brewing white sake, which was pioneered in Edo (present-day Tokyo). Shirozake is made by mixing steamed glutinous rice and rice malt with mirin, letting it mature for about a month, and then mashing it. This dream led to the sale of white sake during the Girls’ Festival, which became popular throughout Edo. Later, the company was spun off and became Toshimaya Honten (Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo), and Toshimaya Sake Brewery was established as the brewer.

I was working for another company, but when my grandfather collapsed when I was 27, I joined the brewery. I did three months of training at the Sake Research Institute in Hiroshima, but I was completely unable to make my own sake, so I then went around visiting sake retailers and fellow breweries to learn more. I wanted to make Tokyo sake anyway. After some trial and error, we came up with Yamori.

Events to make people aware of the appeal of alcoholic beverages

The goal was to create a sake that could only be drunk here. The water was pumped from 150 meters underground on the Musashino Plateau, and various kinds of rice and yeast were tried. Then he realized something: “It is natural, but in the end, the taste of sake is determined by the way it is made.
It is obvious, but in the end, the taste is determined by the brewer. The only way is to hone one’s own skills. Yamori” is produced in small quantities, but I want to make delicious sake by sticking to manual labor as much as possible.

The label for Yamori features an illustration of a gecko. The name “Yamori,” which reads as it does, represents the hope that the sake brewery will be protected by the gecko. The sake is bottled without filtration or addition of water. The sake has a moderate sweetness and an easy-to-drink mouthfeel. It seems to go well with a variety of dishes. Mr. Tanaka named this sake, which can only be purchased through a trusted distributor, after his desire to protect the brewery and the prosperity of the people and stores he is connected to through sake. The sake is not sold at the brewery either, as he wants to return the favor to the stores that sell it to him.

If sake is only consumed by sake lovers, it will not spread. Tanaka believes that sake has the power to “create bonds between people,” and actively opens the brewery, which has a tasting space, to the public, offering evening tours of the brewery, the monthly “Kaku-uchi, happy hour Tanakaya,” and the annual “TOYOSHIMAYA FESTIVAL,” which is held once a year. He now plans and organizes more than 30 events a year in the hope that people will come into contact with the charms of sake, including evening tours of the brewery, the monthly “Kaku-uchi, happy hour Tanakaya,” and the annual “TOYOSHIMAYA FESTA.
He is now planning and organizing more than 30 events a year, from sake brewing to PR, in order to promote Tokyo’s local sake, which he created from scratch.

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