A long history with numerous reconstruction

Zuiganji Temple is a family temple of Masamune Date. It is officially called ”Shotoseiryuzan Zuigan Enpukuzenji” and its foundation goes back as far as the Heian period. According to the records in ”Tendaiki”, it was founded in the 5th year of Tencho (828AD) by priest Jikaku Taishi Ennin by the order of Emperor Junna, leading him to start ”Tendai-shu School of Buddhism Enpukuji Temple”.
In the mid－Kamakura period, it was converted to the Rinzai-shu School of Buddhism, by the order of Tokiyori Hojo. The conversion was a violent act, and it is said that Hojo drove away the Tendai-shu monks by military force. After this, priest Hosshin-zenshi revived it as ”Rinzai-shu Enpukuji Temple”, but it fell into decline during the Sengoku period.

When Masamune Date came to rule, he became devoted to revitalizing the temple, and constructed the buildings which remain as Zuiganji Temple today. Ungo-zenshi, who was summoned by Masamune, Dousui-zenshi, who devoted his effort to the improvement of the temple, and Hosshin-zenshi; these three priests became the founders of the temple. During the movement to abolish Buddhism, and the centralization of administrative power in the modern era, the land belonging to the temple was confiscated, but the temple gradually revitalized from the Meiji period.

Strict rules of Masamune Date

On this occasion, Nakata was escorted by Priest Yoichi Chiba, the head of general affairs, to the temple kitchen, a National Treasure, which was open to the public for a limited time. The wood for the main building and the temple kitchen was brought from the mountains of Mount Kumano in Wakayama, and transported by water, and many master craftsmen were summoned for the construction.
Priest Chiba added, ”The Lord Masamune Date gave strict orders to the craftsmen. One was to never enter the construction site wearing shoes. The other was to never use a nail or a clamp that was dropped on the ground, although these were very valuable building materials.”
The main building and the temple kitchen which were constructed with the passion of Lord Date, have never been affected by a fire in 400 years, and are designated National Treasures as buildings of Momoyama-style. The main building went through an extensive restoration, reopening in 2016.

Matsushima Bay and Godaido Temple

When speaking about Matsushima, many think of the Godaido Temple protruding towards the sea. Legend has it that Sakanoue no Tamuramaro first built a temple for the god of Bishmonten when going to war with the northern countries of Ezo. Later, when priest Ennin founded Enpukuji Temple, he enshrined the statues of the Five Great Wisdom Kings (Daisho Fudoumyo Ou, Gosanze, Gundari, Daiitoku, and Kongoyasha).
The present temple, which is built overlooking Matsushima Bay with 260 islets and uniquely shaped rocks, was built when Lord Masamune Date reconstructed Zuiganji Temple. It is an example of the skilled craftsmanship of Momoyama architecture, and it is open for worship only once in 33 years. When Nakata visited, it was early morning. Godaido Temple by morning stood glowing in total silence.

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The mausoleum of Mitsumune Date, the grandson of Masamune Date.

Entsu-in is situated next to Zuiganji Temple, the family temple of Masamune Date. Mitsumune Date, the grandson of Masamune Date and great grandson of Ieyasu Tokugawa died at the age of 19, and a mausoleum ”Sankeiden” was built, and established as a memorial temple in the 4th year of Shoho (1647). ”Sankeiden” was built with all the craftsmanship of the Date clan and is designated a National Important Cultural Property,
Today, it is open to public for worship, but in it has a history of being closed for three centuries.
On the grounds of the temple, Daihitei (Great Sadness Cottage), once a summer cottage in Edo, a place Mitsumune was attached to, has been relocated from Edo to enshrine the statue of Seikannon Bosatsu.
”The sorrow of his father, Tadamune Date, must have been great indeed. In his great sadness, he moved this summer cottage all the way from Edo, in memory of his son.” says Haruka Amano, the deputy chief priest of Entsu-in. In front of Daihitei is a heart shaped pond, and a garden which represents Mount Hodaraku, a legendary mountain where Bosatsu Kannon is believed to have lived.

“Foreign culture” expressed in the mausoleum

Nakata was allowed to visit the inside of Sankeiden.
”Please look at the doors of the shrine. There are drawings of western daffodils and roses.” Indeed, there were beautiful pictures. The flowers from the west, such as daffodils and roses, were very rare during the Edo period. In the years of Keicho, the Date clan sent Tsunenaga Hasekura as a delegate to Europe, in an attempt to start direct diplomatic relationships with foreign countries. Hasekura succeeded in securing an audience with the King of Spain and the Pope, but he returned to Japan without much success. When he returned, Japan had already decided on national policy of isolation.
”In the age of national isolation, it was compulsory to give up any goods brought from foreign countries to the central government. It is believed that the Date clan wished to preserve the foreign culture they so painstakingly acquired, in this mausoleum. ” The central government would have never thought that the cultures of the west would be drawn inside a shrine. It is decorated also with other western designs including hearts, diamonds, spades, and clubs.

Taking a walk in the beautiful gardens

On visiting Entsu-in, Nakata couldn’t help stopping to look at the beautiful gardens. Within the temple grounds, there are four gardens, and many visitors come here to see the stone garden which represents the Seven Gods of Happiness, and the rose garden.
”There were times when Entsu-in didn’t even have a resident priest and couldn’t maintain the temple. These gardens used to be vegetable patches during the war. We tended to the gardens, and little by little, they have come to the present state.” said Amano.
Tender green of new leaves in the spring, the lush trees and colorful flowers in the summer, red maple tree leaves and lighted night scenery in autumn – the gardens show different aspects each season, and give visitors much pleasure.

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Ranking 5th in number of temples

On hearing the word temples, you most likely think of Kyoto or Nara. Other regions known for temples are Kamakura and Hiraizumi. But Aizu also has a thriving Buddhist culture. Aizu ranks 5th in the number of temples in the region, with the aforementioned 4 locations ranking in the top 4.
We were given this information by Emori Fujita, the Deputy Chief Priest of Eryuji Temple, Buzan school, Shingon sect in Aizubangemachi, Kawanumagun, Fukushima Prefecture.
History has it that Eryuji temple was established when the monk, Seigan from Liang Dynasty built a high temple in the year 540, so it has a history of 1500 years. The temple was moved to its current location in 1190. Within the premises are a hall called Tachiki Kannon Hall, Aizu Korori Three Kannon holy place, and Aizu Thirty Three Kannon, which is the 31st holy temple.

Kannon carved from a single tree

“Guided by the priest, we enter the Kannon (or Buddha) hall where the main Buddha statue, Eleven Faced Thousand Arms Buddha, is enshrined. Usually, the statue is not available for public viewing, but we were allowed a special worship session. After completing our initial prayer for the special viewing, we came face to face with the Kannon which stood approximately 8.5 meters tall. We had to look up to see the face of the majestic Kannon.

This Buddha statue which was carved about 1200 years ago in 808, is also called Tachiki Kannon. It is called ”Tachiki” which means standing tree, because it was carved from a single tree. After hearing this, Nakata took a second look at the Kannon statue. He commented loudly ”It’s amazing there was a tree of this size. It is so big.”
The girth is so wide, that even an adult can’t embrace it. Tachiki Kannon is designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan. It also is the largest wooden statue in Japan to be carved from a single standing tree.

A Hugging Pillar to bring to fulfill all prayers

Also as famous as the main Buddha, Tachiki Kannon, is the Hugging Pillar. To the right of the Tachiki Kannon, there is a large pillar called the Hugging Pillar which is believed to fulfill one’s prayers when you hug it. The custom started when people began hugging the pillar instead of the Buddha statue to have their prayers granted. Even now, people look to the Buddha statue on the left as they embrace the Hugging Pillar.
When they renovated the Kannon Hall, there were strong requests to leave the Hugging Pillar as is, so they placed pieces of wood above and below it to secure it. Many people still come to the temple to embrace the Hugging Pillar.
”When visitors enter this Hall, their attention is drawn to the Hugging Pillar immediately. They do not listen to my story anymore. They all look at the pillar…” He told us laughing.
Nakata also hugged the pillar. What did he pray for? He also encouraged the staff to do the same saying ”You do it too.” Perhaps people gather at a temple for this kind of warm interaction.

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Observing morning sutra reading

Sojiji, formally named Shogakuzan Sojiji, is a temple established 700 years ago. They enshrine ”Shogaku Kannon.” Sojiji used to be located on the Noto Peninsula as one the head temples with a status equaling that of Eiheiji of Soto Zen Buddhism. When the original temple was lost in a fire in the Meiji Period, they reassessed the temple’s meaning of existence and its mission in the modern world, and as a result, the temple was relocated to Yokohama in 1911.
Nakata visited the temple just as the sun was rising. At the temple, Buddhist priests were starting their morning sutra chanting. Nakata continued to observe the morning service as he sat in ”seiza” style in the main hall. His mind calmed down instantly. Priests assembled as they started to chant the sutra. The atmosphere of the silent hall changed completely.

Experiencing “zazen”

Following the morning service, Nakata tried ”zazen.” First he was given a lecture on the etiquette and how to cross the legs for ”zazen”. First place your right foot on your left thigh, then place your left foot over the right foot on the right thigh. If you are crossing just one side, you should pull in the lower foot as close as possible to your body. Place your hands on your feet lightly forming a circle with both thumbs. Sit up straight, extend the back of your head toward the ceiling. Your ears and shoulders, your nose and navel should make a straight line to form the ”zazen” posture.
Breathing should be deep and slow, one breath at a time. Stay focused on breathing and do not be distracted by your own thoughts. Ignore them. Do not dwell on those thoughts. Allow the thoughts, good or bad, to come and go freely and continue to breathe deeply. It is important to maintain your posture and deep breathing. The mind will become calm. In ”zazen”, one can calm the mind with the body, not by thinking.

Conveying message of traditional Buddhism

Hokei Mimura, the ”zazen” instructor gave Nakata instructions on ”zazen”. ”The body does not lie,” he said. By studying one’s ”zaso”, the posture of one’s ”zazen”, Mimura can detect their worries, troubles, etc. Sojiji holds ”zazen” sessions on a regular basis. Some participants are beginners but some have attended the sessions for years. They frequently ask, ”What happens if I practice ’zazen?’” ”Soto-shu’s traditional answer would be, ’Nothing’” Mimura told us.
”But I say to them, ’You become yourself.’ You do not move every part of your body consciously. Through ’zazen’ you consciously maintain a straight posture, you are inspired to be aware of who you are. Take one step further and make yourself stronger. That is the meaning of ’zazen’.”
Do not concentrate on any particular thought, stabilize your mind with your body. It is rare to find an opportunity to do something like this in everyday life. ”We would like to continue conveying messages from Buddhism that is applicable in the modern world.”

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A popular shrine known to the local populace as “Oinari-san”

Kasama Inari Shrine in Kasama, Ibaraki Prefecture claims a history of 1360 years, its establishment said to go back to 651 AD. A village named Kasama is clearly recorded in the history book ”Hitachinokuni Fudoki”（circa　713AD), and it is thought that by around this time, it was a place of worship for people. The deity enshrined is ”Ukanomitama No Kami”. A diety for harvest, business, luck and protection from fire, the shrine has won respect as the trustworthy ”Oinari-san” (name indicating respect and friendliness towards the deity) from ancient times. Ibaraki Prefecture was struck by a level 6 (out of 7) tremor in the Great East Japan Earthquake of March 11, 2011, and earthquakes of a smaller scale are still continuing. To avoid secondary damage, the shrine has temporarily taken down the ”Torii” gate, and repairs of the main shrine (designated as an Important National Cultural Asset) is on hold until the quakes settle down. However, that doesn’t stop people from visiting the shrine, and for them, they are proceeding to repair various buildings and facilities within the premises.

The “naorai” ritual

When Nakata finished worshipping, they lead him to a room where there was food on the table. Prompted by the shrine staff, Nakata set forth to eat. Seafood, beans, ”kanpyou” (dried gourd) etc. It is an important custom to treat guests with food that was once offered to the deities.
”It’s called ”naorai”. The food offered to deities are empowered by the spirit and by consuming the food, it empowers you from within. We always have worshippers enjoy the food as a part of the ritual. ”
In ancient times, ”Naorai” was the occasion for villagers to gather and discuss weather, crops, and rules after ceremonies and festivals.
”It’s the first time I was served a meal in a shrine. I didn’t know such rituals existed.” said Nakata.
”In Shinto, we have the idea of following the ancestors’ footsteps. I can imagine our ancestors attending the ”naorai” ritual, discussing various topics as they lived.” Kasama Shrine offers ”naorai” to visitors who attend the shrine worship ceremony year-round. The shrine continues an important tradition that has existed since ancient times.

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Jomon Era Cave Habitat

Almost everyone visiting Ooyaji Temple will be surprised seeing the mountain made of huge strange rocks. At the foot of the mountain, a “Kannon-do” hall (hall dedicated to Goddess of Mercy in a temple) is build underneath the rocks as if it were tucked in. Many may wonder “Why was such building built here?”
But these rocks are greatly related to the history of this area.
Way before the founding of Ooyaji Temple, a cave believed to be human habitat from the Jomon period remains in this rocky mountain and is preserved as “Ooya Iwakage Iseki” ruins (Ooya Rock Shelter Ruins).
The cave is believed to be a lateral hole dwelling from the early Jomon period, and human skeleton form about 11,000 years ago has been unearthed. (*A part of the skeleton is exhibited in the Treasure Museum in Ooyaji Temple.)
And in the stone walls of the ““Ooya Iwakage Iseki” ruins, “Magaibutsu” or cliff-carved Buddhas are engraved.
In other words, Ooyaji Temple is a rare place which is not only a Nationally Designated Special Historic Site for being a Jomon historic ruin, but is also designated Important Cultural Properties as a Buddhist historical site

Presence of “Magaibutsu” on Stone Walls

Ooyaji Temple is said to have been founded in 810 in the Heian period when Kobo Daishi carved the principal statue Senju Kannon. Besides Senju Kannon, there are altogether 4 sets of stone Buddhas left at present including “three Buddhas of Shaka”, three Buddhas of Yakushi”, and “tree Buddhas of Amida” totaling in 10 statues. The chief priest showed us inside of the cave.
“In the beginning, the stone Buddhas were covered with gold leaf. It reveals similarities with the stone Buddhas of Bamiyan, probably a method of carving passed directly from the Silk Road. They must have been quite impressive in appearance, but unfortunately the gold leaves have fallen over the many years. We’ve had many fires, and so the statues were damaged.”
“And the people of the past, they really did a good job at carving.” Said Nakata.
“Yes, that is true. Scholars of Tochigi Prefecture have continued studies, and the statues are considered to have been made in the later Nara period.
The theory is that they were made mainly by second-generation disciples of Ganjin who founded Toshodaiji Temple.
At that time, domain of the Nara Imperial Court extended as far as Tochigi. Therefore, the status may have been made as a national project at the northern strategic point. “
The chief priest spoke to us in front of the cliff-carved Buddhas, “Buddha has no sects, only the worshippers have sects.”
Humans have lived in this land for may long years, the cliff-carved Buddhas and the temple have remained as a ground of worship. Ooyaji Temple may be a place where visitors can reflect on that history.

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Kitain reconstructed after a great fire.

Kitain Temple is a temple of Tendai sect of Buddhism, and is generally known by the name of Kawagoe Daishi. Its origin goes back to the year 830, so it has nearly 1200 years of history. The official name of the temple is Seiyasan Muryoju-ji Kitain, and in the ancient times it was the northern (Kita) pavilion within Muryoju-ji Temple. However the name was later changed to ”Kita (much happiness)-in (pavilion)” , when Nankoubou Tenkai, a monk much trusted by the Shogun family of Tokugawa since the time of Ieyasu Tokugawa, came to serve as the chief priest.

In the 15th year of Kanei (1638), there was a great fire which devastated the whole of Kawagoe , and many buildings were burnt down. However through the patronage of Iemitsu Tokugawa, the palace buildings were relocated from Edo Castle Momiji Yama, and the temple was reconstructed. That is the reason why Kitain Temple is famous for having ”the room where Shogun Iemitsu Tokugawa is born”. Apart from that, there are numerous properties of cultural importance, including Important National Cultural Properties such as the Main Gate Building constructed by Nankoubou Tenkai.

Depicting the candid expressions of humans ”the 500 arhats”

Among the many cultural assets, ”the 500 arhats” are one of the most popular. There are 538 stone Buddhist statues which were built between 1782 and 1825. In the middle at the high seat sits the large statue of the historical Gautama Buddha, and the statues of arhats, who are the disciples of Buddha, surrounding the Buddha.. Every arhat statue is said to have a different face and a different pose.

”Take a look at this interesting arhat.” It was a statue, cocking its head and lying down on its side. ”He is taking a nap,” smiled Nakata.
”That’s right. These statues depict the candid feelings of people as they are, their joy, anger, sadness and happiness. There are also statues representing the 12 animals of the oriental zodiac. Visitors often come and seek their zodiac animals and offer their prayers.”
As expressed by ”the 500 arhats”, the candid feeling of people may have remained the same, then and now.

In spring, the cherry blossoms will flourish, and the place will be enlivened by many visitors. The temple has always watched over the town of Kawagoe, so called Little Edo, since ancient times, and has been loved by many.

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God of fire and God of land

It was in the year 927, when the name of ”Haruna Shine” appeared in the document titled ”Engi-shiki”. The name of this shrine never appears in documents written before this date, so it is difficult to go back to confirm the year of its establishment. However, it is also said that the shrine was built in the year 586, so the official year of establishment is yet unknown.

During the Age of Provincial Wars (Sengoku-jidai), the shrine lost its prosperity, but during the Edo period, it was restored by a high Buddhist priest named Tenkai, who served under three generations of the Tokugawa family (Ieyasu, Hidetada and Iemitsu). Later, the shrine belonged to ”Ueno Eikanji” during the syncretion of Shinto and Buddhism. It became an independent shrine in the Meiji Era when Shinto and Buddhism were separated.

Today, the shrine worships ”Homusubi-no-kami” (the God of fire) and ”Haniyamahime-no-kami” (the God of land).

The path surrounded by nature and wooden structures

The approach from the entrance to the main building is about 700 meters. Walking on a curved pathway, surrounded by a steep cliff and tall cedar trees, a waterfall suddenly appears on the surface of a rock. Nakata seemed to enjoy the walk as he looked up at the sky every so often.

The main building, endowed with decorations of multiple colors and a round copper roof, is designated an Important Cultural Property. The worship hall was built some time between 1700 to 1800, and many other structures within the shrine are designated as Important Cultural Properties as well.

We strolled through the property while enjoying the nature and beautiful wooden structures. It brought a peacefulness and purity by the time we reached the main building of the shrine.

Left photo: Zuijin-mon
Right photo: Soryu-mon

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No matter how far, visit Zenkoji once at least

No Matter How Far, Visit Zenkoji Once at Least – this poem shows how Zenkoji was earnestly worshipped by the common people. The streets of the temple town is lined with various shops, making the area an attractive tourist spot for browsing.
Zenkoji is said to be founded around 642, the year Yoshimitsu Honda, the founding father, enshrined a Buddhist Image at the present site. In 644, by the order of the Emperor, a Buddhist temple was constructed.

Actually, the principal image of Zenkoji ”Ikko Sanzon Amida Nyoraizo （Amida Triad Sharing One Halo）” was brought to Japan from Baekje in 552, about 100 years before the construction of Zenkoji. This Amida is known as the oldest Buddhist statue, but it has been kept hidden since 654 and will not be exposed to the public eye. Even the chief priest is not allowed to take a look, and it can be said that it is a statue wrapped in the mysterious veil.

”Okaidan Meguri” a tour inside the principal image

Nakata experienced ”Okaidan Meguri”.
”Okaidan Meguri”, is a tour of the corridor which lies underneath ”Ruri Dan” where the principal image of Buddha is enshrined. The mission of this tour is to find and touch ”Gokuraku No Jomae (lock to paradise)” which is set right beneath the Buddha. By walking in the corridor room which represents the inside of the body of Buddha, people regarded the tour as a training for rebirth.

Zenkoji is famous for holding ”Gokaicho” every seven years. Since ”Gokaicho” is counted as first year, it is actually carried out every six years. In those years, several million people visit Zenkoji. In 2009, ”Gokaicho” was held in all six locations of Zenkoji around the country, and there were more than 6,500,000 visitors.

The song at the beginning ”No matter far away …” has a sequel. ”Tasuke Tamouzo Mida No Seigan” (You will have a salvation as in Amitabha’s Vow) It has been more than 1450 years since the arrival to Japan, but visitors still come to worship this precious Amitabha in the modern era.

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Leaving many legends

”Iga Hachimangu” enshrines the family god of Matsudaira, which is an ancestral family of Tokugawa. It is a Shinto shrine founded by the 4th lord of the Matsudaira family, Chikatada, in the 2nd year of Bunmei (1470), 72 years before the birth of Ieyasu Tokugawa.

Since its foundation, it has been the object of worship by all the lords of the family, even during time of war. Ieyasu also expressed deep faith, and it was customary for him to pay a visit before going to battle. There are many legends that have been passed down concerning the shrine. At the Battle of Okehazama, when General Imagawa lost and retreated, a white deer, a messenger to the god of Hachimangu, was said to have appeared at Yahagi River and lead Ieyasu safely back to his domain in Okazaki. Also at the Battle of Sekigahara and the Siege of Osaka, the main building of the shrine rumbled and shook, and the red gates were said to have moved from its original place.

The ”Gongen zukuri” style of the main shrine building

The third Shogun of Tokugawa, Iemitsu, deified his grandfather Ieyasu Tokugawa as Tosho Daigongen and enshrined him together with the family god of Iga Hachimangu. Thus Iga Hachimangu became one of the three Toshogu (together with Nikko and Kunozan), the shrines deifying the Shogun as gods. Iemitsu expanded the main shrine building originally built by Ieyasu in the ”Gongen zukuri” style, which is the same as Nikko Toshogu. The brilliantly colored shrine building, together with the Zuishinmon Gate, and the stone bridge over the sacred pond, were designated National Treasures in the 8th year of Meiji (1933), and still remain unchanged from ancient times.

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