The first bite is rich and creamy; the second is smooth and refreshing. “Milkoro Aging Yogurt,” a two-layer bottled yogurt, is a popular product that has won numerous awards, including the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award. Yusuke Oyabu, the mastermind behind the product and a dairy farmer himself, is creating a place where cows’ lives shine through “product development that wins consumers’ hearts.”

Hearing my father express his vulnerabilities for the first time, I decided to take on the family business.

Koshishi, a bedroom community of Kumamoto City, continues to see population growth. “Ooyabu Dairy Farm” is located in one corner of the city.

Founded in 1975, the farm began by raising Holsteins—a breed that accounts for more than 90 percent of Japan’s dairy cattle—and milking and shipping the milk. Yusuke Ooyabu, the current president, took over the family business and began farming in 2001. However, it wasn’t simply a matter of being forced into the family business; rather, he was inspired to become a farmer after meeting a dairy farming couple who traveled abroad every year for training in the United States. He was deeply moved by their way of life—one in which they used “dairy farming” to enrich and shape their own lives—and this encounter became the catalyst for his decision to enter the industry. He had long harbored doubts about the traditional dairy industry structure, but upon witnessing firsthand a standardized industrial system that no individual could possibly change—even if he were to rise to a high position within the industry—he gradually lost motivation and spent his days in a state of frustration.

What dealt the final blow to Mr. Oyabu’s morale was the nationwide production adjustment of raw milk. Production adjustment is a government policy implemented—for example, when dairy product inventories become excessive—that requires producers to curb raw milk production. It takes two years from the time a calf is born until it can be milked. Once the number of dairy farms or the herd size is reduced, it becomes difficult to restore production levels in the short term. For this reason, rather than limiting herd size, inventory levels are adjusted by requiring producers to discard raw milk.

The emotional state of producers who work tirelessly to raise their cows, only to be ordered to discard large quantities of the raw milk they have finally managed to produce, is not something others can easily put into words. Moreover, production adjustments are repeated multiple times depending on inventory levels, and each time, producers bear not only a psychological burden but also the heavy financial burden of declining profits.

In fact, in 2006, a massive surplus of raw milk occurred, and in Hokkaido alone, the equivalent of 900,000 cartons—approximately 900 metric tons—of raw milk was discarded.

That said, cows must be milked every single day; otherwise, they develop mastitis and, in the worst cases, die. It is precisely because of their sense of responsibility and love for these animals that farmers continue to care for them and milk them daily, even when they know the milk will be discarded.

Furthermore, it takes about three years from a calf’s birth until it can be milked for the first time. If we were to limit herd sizes now—for example, by culling cows—simply because there is a surplus of milk, there is a risk that supply would fall short in a few years if a nationwide heatwave were to cause milk production to drop across the country.

Furthermore, dairy farming is a “capital-intensive industry” requiring initial investments ranging from tens of millions to hundreds of millions of yen—covering barn construction, milking robots, tractors, and the dozens of cows themselves. Much of this is financed through long-term loans, so simply saying, “It’s too hard—I’m quitting tomorrow,” is rarely an option.

Overwhelmed by despair, Ms. Oyabu heard Masakatsu voice his frustrations for the very first time. It was a moment when her father’s figure seemed small to her. And she realized that, without even noticing, she had been averting her eyes from the harsh realities of dairy farming.

Ms. Oyabu decided to confront the family business head-on. There was no future in continuing with the same methods. In a dairy farming system where milk is simply shipped to the agricultural cooperative, they have no control over either the price or the volume of their shipments. If they remained trapped in a system where their efforts went unrewarded, it would be difficult to support their family or pass the farm on to the next generation. Feeling a strong sense of crisis about the farm’s current situation, Mr. Oyabu decided to make a major shift—moving away from a dairy farming model focused solely on shipping milk to one where they would create value on their own.

Original Yogurt That Only Dairy Farmers Can Make

What, exactly, could they do? How could they ensure that the lives of the cows born at “Ooyabu Daily Farm” were not wasted, but instead allowed to shine? As he searched for an answer, Mr. Ooyabu arrived at the idea of creating highly original dairy products under the farm’s own brand. Around that time, the farm had also begun raising Jersey cows, which have higher nutritional value than Holsteins and whose raw milk is relatively rare. Mr. Ooyabu learned yogurt production techniques from experienced dairy farmers and bacterial testing methods from a technical support agency in Kumamoto Prefecture. In 2012, he built a small, 2.5-meter-square processing facility on the farm grounds and began producing yogurt using raw milk from his own herd. This is how “Milkoro Aging Yogurt” was born.

“Milkoro Aging Yogurt” has only two ingredients: raw milk from our own Jersey cows and beet sugar. Generally, raw milk undergoes a process called homogenization to uniform the milk fat and stabilize quality, but at “Ooyabu Dairy Farm,” we do not homogenize the milk; instead, we use it as is. As a result, the fat separates and rises to the surface as a layer of cream. Because Jersey cow’s milk is high in fat, the cream layer becomes thick, resulting in a two-layered yogurt—one layer of cream and one layer of yogurt. Believing that this uniqueness adds to the product’s value, they chose raw milk from Jersey cows rather than Holsteins. The two layers have distinct flavors: the cream layer is rich and velvety, like a rare cheesecake, while the yogurt layer offers a smooth, refreshing taste. It possesses such complex aromas and umami that it’s hard to believe it’s made with just two ingredients. Furthermore, the cream layer acts as a lid, allowing fermentation to continue daily within the yogurt layer, where lactic acid bacteria multiply and the flavor evolves over time. That is why we call it “Aging.”

But these aren’t the only features of “Milkoro Aging Yogurt.” Jersey cows are raised on a diet primarily consisting of flaxseed—which is rich in omega-3 fatty acids, an essential component for various bodily functions—and their raw milk naturally contains high levels of omega-3 fatty acids. Furthermore, through repeated selective breeding on the farm, the Jersey cows at “Ooyabu Dairy Farm” have been bred to produce beta-casein A2 milk. Beta-casein A2 milk is said to have a structure similar to that of human breast milk; it is easily absorbed and less likely to cause inflammation in the digestive tract, so it is said to be less likely to cause stomach rumbling when consumed.

“Ooyabu Dairy Farm’s” product development capabilities, which leverage the unique characteristics of its milk, have been recognized nationwide, earning the farm numerous awards, including the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award at the 2019 Sixth Industry Awards. The farm has significantly expanded its sales channels, with its yogurt now served at breakfast on JR Kyushu’s luxury train “Seven Stars in Kyushu” and at some of Japan’s leading luxury hotels.

I don’t want to turn a blind eye to the fact that there are lives whose births are not celebrated.

It goes without saying that cows have genders. Female dairy cows produce milk, while males do not. Therefore, males are raised for beef. However, male Jersey calves are often culled shortly after birth because they are smaller in stature and grow more slowly than Holsteins, resulting in lower profitability.

The probability of a male calf being born is about 50%. Mr. Oyabu had long been troubled by the fact that he couldn’t bring himself to feel truly happy from the bottom of his heart when he learned that a calf born on his farm was a male. He didn’t want to turn a blind eye to the reality that there are lives whose births are not celebrated simply because of human convenience. Since they had been born anyway, he wanted to create a place where the lives of male calves could shine. Driven by this desire, he began an initiative to raise male calves until they were one year old—just barely within the break-even point—and then process them into meat. By incorporating this meat into the menu at “MILK’ORO LAB.”—a new café opened on the ranch grounds—he has created a system that carries the baton of life forward.

It was discovered that by raising male calves on a diet primarily consisting of flaxseed—which is rich in omega-3 fatty acids, just like the female calves—the meat contains “ALA (alpha-linolenic acid),” a type of unsaturated fatty acid that aids in anti-aging. Furthermore, the meat is tender and has excellent flavor. If it is not only functional but also delicious, that becomes a reason for consumers to choose it. These efforts have attracted attention even outside the industry, and in June 2025, the farm won second place at the “Japan’s Treasure Legend Grand Prix,” an event held at the Osaka Expo venue to honor outstanding regional foods.

“Developing Products That Stand Out” Will Be the Key to the Future of Dairy Farming

At “Ooyabu Daily Farm,” we actively conduct food education activities centered around “MILK’ORO LAB.” We offer hands-on experiences—such as milking and dairy processing—that allow participants to feel the warmth of life and understand the cycle of food, welcoming approximately 2,000 visitors annually, primarily local children.
Through dairy farming experiences, we hope visitors will feel the warmth of life, and through manufacturing experiences, we hope they will realize that we all depend on others for our survival. However, even if such complex concepts don’t immediately sink in, Mr. Ooyabu believes that simply stepping onto the farm and seeing the cows with their own eyes will allow visitors to feel something meaningful. He also believes that, so that children who develop an interest in cows and the farm will see dairy farming as a promising career, it is crucial for “Ooyabu Dairy Farm” to first establish a sustainable business model. To that end, “developing products that consumers choose” will be the key to the future of dairy farming. As he spoke passionately about his future vision, his eyes were filled with the determination and strength needed to carry the reality of life on the farm into the future.

The post “My mission is to create a place where the lives of cows shine.” Yusuke Oyabu of “Oyabu Dairy Farm” / Koshi City, Kumamoto Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

When one hears the word “Japanese tea,” Shizuoka and Kyoto come to mind.In such a situation, “Sonogicha” from Higashisonogi, Nagasaki Prefecture, is slowly attracting attention from all over Japan.We visited Mr. Masatoshi Matsuo of “Chayu,” a tea farmer who is also actively trading with foreign countries, to learn more about the appeal of Sonogi tea, which continues to spread from Nagasaki to Japan and overseas.
 

Nagasaki’s Japanese tea, the best in Japan

Almost in the center of Nagasaki Prefecture.Higashisonogi, overlooking the calm waters of Omura Bay, is a town blessed with scenic spots and rich nature, including the valley “Ryutosen” (Dragon’s Head Spring).As you drive into the mountains, you will see tea plantations all around.The “Sonogicha” tea grown on the slopes with a mild climate and refreshing sea breezes is now attracting increasing attention in Japan, having won the top prize at a national tea fair for four years in a row.

What is “Sogicha,” which accounts for about 2% of the nation’s production?

Japanese tea is usually called “sencha,” which has a thin needle-like shape, but the main type of tea produced here in Higashisonogi is steamed tamaryokucha, which has a rounded shape.It is also called “Guricha” (meaning “green tea” in Japanese) because the tea leaves are curved in the shape of a Japanese “katadama” (a Japanese “jewel”), and it is characterized by its mild taste and less astringency than sencha.The flavor is extracted as the tea leaves slowly open up in the hot water, allowing the user to enjoy the changes in flavor and aroma each time the tea is poured.

In recent years, the tea farm Chayu has consistently ranked high at Japanese tea fairs throughout Japan, and has won the Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries Award, the Emperor’s Cup, and the Grand Prize at the Japan Tea Awards.

At the age of 35, he took over the family business and became a tea farmer.

The farm is located at an elevation of 400 meters above sea level, on a mountain slope overlooking Omura Bay in the distance. The tea fields of Chayu, spread out on the slopes of a mountain overlooking Omura Bay in the distance, were full of lush green tea buds that were just about to be harvested. Masatoshi’s father, Michio, planted tea trees here in 1970. Since then, he has been growing and producing Japanese tea. Masatoshi’s life surrounded by tea trees made him vaguely think that he would someday be involved in tea production as well. After attending a prefectural agricultural high school, he returned to his hometown after two years of training in tea production at the National Vegetable and Tea Research Institute in Shizuoka. In 2004, at the age of 35, he took over the tea farm and established Chayu, a company that handles everything from production to sales.

Drawing out the potential of the tea leaves by being close to nature

Most of the teas produced at Chayu are steamed Tamaryokucha, as mentioned above. Since there is no “rubbing” process to shape the tea leaves into a needle shape, the tea leaves are round. The tea leaves are rounded and rounded because there is no “rubbing” process to shape the tea leaves into a needle-like shape. Masatoshi says, “ I want to bring out the full potential of the tea leaves in terms of shape, taste, and aroma.” As Masatoshi says, Chachatomo’s steamed Tamaryokucha has a soft, sweet taste with little bitterness and bitterness, and is known for its smooth, easy-throating flavor.

The tea leaves are not overworked, and the tea leaves have a soft, sweet, and smooth taste. The tea fields are fertilized with organic materials such as bone meal and rapeseed oil pomace, and as little chemical fertilizers and pesticides are used as possible. Although this means that damage from vermin is unavoidable, the soil is soft and fertile, rich in earthworms and microorganisms, as a result of mixing in organic fertilizers.

Tea cultivation based on the environment of each field.

Furthermore, the unique topography of Higashisonogi, surrounded by the sea and mountains, brings diversity to the flavor of tea. In Higashisonogi, where there is not much flat land, the temperature and humidity vary slightly depending on the difference in elevation, from the sea coast to the slopes of the mountains. Masatoshi says, “We can’t mass-produce, but we can have fun pursuing the flavor of each field through trial and error. We try to make better tea every year, but it is difficult to get 100 points. I can’t beat the power of nature,” he says with a gentle smile.

Rare “Asatsuyu” tea that has won numerous awards

Currently, there are a total of eight varieties of tea grown at Chayu. Among them, “ Asatsuyu,” made from a variety called “Asatsuyu,” which is characterized by its sweetness and flavor with little bitterness and astringency, is the signature product of Chayu. Asatsuyu was originally selected from a native variety of Uji, Kyoto, and registered as a variety in 1953, but it is extremely rare, with only about 1% of all tea plantations in Japan growing it.

The warm climate here in Higashisonogi is also suitable for Asatsuyu, but it is one of the most difficult varieties to cultivate and produce. Masatoshi’s Asatsuyu has received numerous awards for its high quality, including the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries Award, theEmperor’s Cup, and the “ Japanese Tea Awards, ” in which the general public determines the quality of the tea.

Tea that you can drink every day and never get tired of it

While producing unique teas such as “Asatsuyu,” Chayu aims to provide a natural environment where tea is a part of daily life. Masatoshi says, “It is great to make award-winning teas that you can be satisfied with after just one cup, but we also want to make familiar teas that you will always want to drink. Masatoshi also actively holds events related to Japanese tea in hopes that people will become more familiar with Japanese tea in these days when many people are becoming less interested in Japanese tea.

Seasonal Tea Ceremonies

In Nagasaki and Tokyo, tea parties have been held regularly for the past 18 years. Along with homemade sweets made with local ingredients, he has been telling stories about the scenery of tea picking while brewing tea. He says, “I think it is important for people to know that tea is made in such a place by such people, rather than just drinking the tea that is served in front of them. Once people learn about the tea, they will become more interested in Japanese tea, and some of them will say they want to drink it.

Spreading the Appeal of Japanese Tea Abroad

In 2016, the company launched the “ Japanese Tea Germany Project ‘ with the philosophy of ’bringing authentic Japanese tea to Germany. In Germany, where tea culture, including herbal tea, is deeply rooted, imports of Japanese tea have increased significantly in recent years, coupled with a growing boom in Japanese food. It is now the second largest exporter of tea from Japan after the United States.

Japanese tea exports in 2021 (from the website of the Japan Tea Export Promotion Council)

In the project, Japanese tea that meets the EU’s strict standards is introduced to the market through surveys of local residents’ understanding of and preference for Japanese tea at tea stores, cafes, and restaurants throughout Germany. In Munich and other cities, Masatoshi often holds tea parties where he brews Japanese tea in front of the guests and talks about Japanese tea.

Masatoshi says, “So-called ‘green tea’ is sold everywhere, but it is often not a proper Japanese tea. But from our point of view, we want people to know and drink real Japanese tea. Otherwise, the tea we have worked so hard to produce will never reach anyone. It is with this in mind that we started our activities overseas as well,” says Masatoshi. Masatoshi says that his activities in Germany have gradually expanded, and when he held a tea party with the theme of pairing Japanese tea with a local course meal, the event was so popular that tickets were sold out immediately.

We paired ‘Asatuyu’ mizudashi with a course meal, which went surprisingly well together,” he said. And when I hear people say, ‘I want this tea so I can sell it,’ it makes me think that all those days of hard work in the tea fields were for this moment. It’s a new challenge that we can’t reach just by making tea leaves. I would like to continue to create more and more opportunities to share with our customers what we have put our hands into making.”

The Future of Japanese Tea

Our job is not only to make Japanese tea, but also to make sure that people drink it. That is why Masatoshi feels a sense of crisis about the current situation of “Japanese tea drinking away from Japan,” and has been involved in various activities. What he has realized is that it is not about promoting the correct way to brew and drink Japanese tea, but about how to enjoy Japanese tea. In order to do so, he says, it is necessary to have the courage to ignore the stereotypes that have been taken for granted in the tea industry.

The Tea Industry Enters a New Phase

The tea industry needs to propose a way to drink tea that tastes good without the trouble of brewing it in a teapot, although of course brewing tea in a teapot is wonderful. I don’t think there is any such thing as ‘first tea’ being good and ‘second or third tea’ not being good. Farmers work very hard to produce each type of tea, and there are tastes that are only suited to the tea leaves that are available at the time of harvest. What is the ideal Japanese tea for today’s life and for today’s people? I think it is time for the tea industry to consider this question.

Continuing to Pursue the Taste of Japanese Tea

About five years ago, the company began to use the kama-firi method, which used to be popular mainly in Kyushu. Today, production of kamabai tea has declined to the point where it is said to account for less than 0.03% of all Japanese teas, but its distinctive flavor and aroma, known as kamaka, still enjoys strong popularity.

Masatoshi says, “I want to try various things in order to create ‘delicious’ products that fit the future. Masatoshi’s vision of the future of Japanese tea is full of new possibilities.

One single type of tea tree can be transformed into such a wide variety of flavors just by changing the time of harvest or the production method. There is no such drink without any additives. There is nothing else I can do except make tea. That’s how much I love tea.

Masatoshi’s words and the look in his eyes show a joy that goes beyond his sense of mission to promote Japanese tea in daily life, to bring Japanese tea into people’s lives with love.

The post Delicious tea” that fits today’s times – “Sono Gicha” from Nagasaki to the world Masatoshi Matsuo, a tea friend / Higashisonogi, Nagasaki first appeared on NIHONMONO.