Kochi Prefecture’s official fish is the skipjack tuna, and the prefecture ranks first nationwide in consumption. Skipjack tuna is deeply loved by the people of Kochi.

Even in this “skipjack tuna prefecture,” Myojin Suisan in Kuroshio Town is a well-known name. Myojin Suisan’s straw-grilled tataki isn’t just delicious. The company protects marine resources from overfishing by using single-hook fishing methods and eagerly adopts techniques to ensure the utmost freshness. To secure high-quality straw for making tataki, they established an agricultural corporation, revitalized fallow fields within the town, and return the straw ash to the rice paddies as fertilizer—thus creating a circular model that connects the sea and the mountains.

It is the prefecture’s official fish, and consumption of it ranks first in Japan. The prefecture’s love for bonito

Located about 90 kilometers west of Kochi City, Kuroshio Town in the southwestern part of Kochi Prefecture has long been known for its thriving single-line fishing industry, which tracks skipjack tuna riding the Kuroshio Current off the coast of Tosa, solidifying its reputation as the “Town of Skipjack Tuna.”

In recent years, the town has also attracted large numbers of visitors from both within and outside the prefecture through experiential tourism—such as “whale watching,” which makes use of the area’s natural resources—and sports tourism centered around the Tosa Southwest Large-Scale Park.

Located right next to Saga Fishing Port, where fishing boats set sail, is the headquarters of “Myojin Suisan,” famous for its “straw-grilled bonito tataki.”

Shoichi Myojin, the company’s representative director—who, even now as the head of his own business—still takes out his boat to fish for bonito as a hobby—explains the origins of “tataki.”

“Originally, tataki was a method devised by fishermen in fishing villages to safely eat bonito that had lost some of its freshness in an era before refrigeration or freezing. They would place vinegar and soy sauce in the palm of their hand, slice the lightly seared bonito into sashimi, and then pound it to let the flavors soak in. They would then top it with garnishes such as green onions, onions, and garlic.”

We will continue to preserve line-and-hook fishing

Riding the Kuroshio Current, the “first bonito” migrate northward off the coast of Tosa Bay from around February to March. Afterward, they head south while feeding heavily on krill off the coast of Chiba and in the Tohoku region; by the time they return to the waters off Tosa in the fall, they are rich in fat and are called “returning bonito.”

Myojin Suisan, founded in 1959, has been practicing Tosa’s traditional “single-rod fishing” method—catching bonito with a single fishing rod—off the coast of Tosa Bay.

“Nationally, there may be an image that ‘skipjack tuna equals Kochi,’ but in reality, our catch volume isn’t particularly high. In other prefectures, such as Shizuoka and Kagoshima, the primary method is purse seine fishing, which allows for massive catches—sometimes exceeding 100 metric tons at a time—essentially sweeping up the entire school of skipjack tuna in a single net. Our daily limit is 40 to 50 metric tons. Even today, Kochi and Miyazaki still use the traditional single-line fishing method. If a school isn’t feeding, we stop there and look for another spot. It’s a sustainable fishing method that avoids overfishing and is gentle on the environment,” Mr. Myojin says with great pride.

By using a lure hook without a barb, the skipjack tuna—which is jerked high into the air—slips off the hook at the apex of its trajectory, allowing anglers to catch them one after another. It takes about three years of practice to master the rhythm of this technique. The larger the skipjack tuna, the more difficult it is to handle, and this is where differences in skill become apparent.

Because line fishing minimizes damage to the fish and ensures high quality, the catch is traded at a unit price 3 to 4 times higher per kilogram than that of net fishing. Consequently, the fishery has remained viable even with relatively small landings.

Currently, the company owns four inshore vessels and, through a group company, three large freezer vessels, one of which is the “Katsuei Maru,” capable of operating in the open ocean. This vessel is known as a “B-1 ship.” The caught skipjack tuna are immediately placed, one by one, into a fish hold containing a “salt brine solution”—a highly concentrated saltwater solution maintained at around minus 20 degrees Celsius—where they are rapidly frozen while still alive, preventing any loss of freshness.

Furthermore, veteran fishermen reel in fish at a rate of one every two seconds. To prevent overfishing from filling the fish hold and slowing down the freezing process, the fishing master monitors the catch volume and calls a halt when necessary.

“When they’re really biting, we can go nonstop for an hour and a half to two hours. In terms of weight, that’s 55 or 60 metric tons—or 60,000 kilograms—and they just keep coming, one after another,” says Mr. Myojin, who has served as fishing captain for many years, speaking with passion.

The skipjack tuna from Myojin Fisheries, which has mastered the art of single-hook fishing, is highly regarded nationwide as “B-1 (Brine-Frozen First-Class Product).”

On the other hand, with purse seine fishing, if, for example, 100 metric tons are caught, that entire 100-metric-ton haul is loaded into the ship’s fish hold all at once and frozen. This results in “slow freezing,” where the core temperature of the fish drops gradually, which tends to degrade the quality of the flesh.

At Myojin Fisheries, all top-grade bonito caught by their B-1 vessels are processed into straw-grilled tataki; even so, this accounts for only about half of the annual volume of bonito used for their in-house tataki production.

Kenta Tomioka, the department manager in charge of public relations, explains, “For example, if one of our boats catches a very high-quality, fatty bonito, we can assume that the catch from other companies’ boats in that same fishing ground is of the same quality. By purchasing from them, we can select and gather only the best raw materials.”

Mr. Myojin adds, “Due to soaring fuel costs and the issue of finding successors, the number of fishing vessels is decreasing year by year. To the untrained eye, one might think that fewer rivals would be an advantage, but from a fisherman’s perspective, fewer boats mean it becomes even harder to catch fish. Precisely because we’re scattered across the vast Pacific Ocean fishing, we rely on data shared among fellow fishermen to locate fishing grounds.”

Skipjack tuna vessels are required to share information three times a day regarding their current location and catch volume, and all of this information is publicly available. When Mr. Tomioka showed me his smartphone, I was able to immediately pinpoint the “Katsuei Maru’s” location using AIS (Automatic Identification System). While vessel safety is certainly a factor, the fishing world—where competitors coexist and thrive together—is fascinating.

The intensity of straw-grilling is directly proportional to its deliciousness.

In 1986, Myojin Suisan began processing and selling seafood, as well as manufacturing and selling straw-grilled bonito tataki. The company was founded with the desire to introduce people across Japan to the delicious taste of authentic Kochi-style tataki.

Since the straw burns rapidly and turns to ash almost instantly, only the surface is seared, leaving the inside raw. This creates a unique aroma and texture that cannot be replicated by gas grilling. The combination of frozen bonito with exceptional freshness and the aroma of the straw-grilling process is what makes Myojin Suisan’s tataki so appealing.

What instantly made this appeal famous was the “Myojin Maru” store located at Hirome Market, a popular tourist spot in Kochi City. There, they demonstrate the straw-grilling process and serve the freshly prepared dish on the spot. The aromatic, delicious flavor of their bonito tataki has earned them a stellar reputation, and they now operate restaurants both within and outside the prefecture. They also manage “Roadside Station Nabura Tosa-Saga” in Kuroshio Town, where customers can enjoy the same straw-grilled bonito tataki.

Currently, Myojin Suisan operates six restaurants in Kochi Prefecture, five in Tokyo, two each in Osaka and Okayama, and two in Shikoku. At these restaurants, they use straw grown at “Myojin Farm”—a farm the company established to secure high-quality straw—to grill the tataki, and they also use rice harvested from the farm.

The staff’s hard work is evident in the massive straw warehouse.

Myojin Suisan has focused its efforts on securing both skipjack tuna and straw.

Initially, staff members collected straw from farmers in neighboring municipalities, as well as throughout the prefecture and across Shikoku. However, as many farmers stopped growing rice due to an aging population, the straw shortage became a serious issue. Consequently, Mr. Myojin decided, “If that’s the case, let’s grow our own rice,” and launched “Myojin Farm” in 2014. The company leases abandoned farmland and has been expanding its operations year by year. In collaboration with local farmers, they are also preserving traditional techniques such as drying rice on racks.

They have also set up a dedicated warehouse to further dehumidify the dried straw and store it in a condition that ensures it burns well. I was shown around the massive straw warehouse, but I learned there are actually about six such warehouses where the straw is stored. Even so, this is still not enough to meet their annual demand of 40,000 bundles, so the staff are constantly on the move throughout Kochi Prefecture to secure more straw.

Experience the intensity of minus 50 degrees

I was given a tour of the processing facility. The ultra-low-temperature warehouse where the skipjack tuna is stored to maintain its freshness is kept at minus 50 degrees. Because it is stored at such low temperatures, the tuna has a long shelf life, allowing the facility to supply skipjack tuna year-round without ever running out.

While still frozen, the product is cut into portions—such as single or double servings—to meet customer needs. Then, using a proprietary straw-grilling machine, the surface is grilled for about 5 to 6 minutes while carefully monitoring the day’s temperature, humidity, and the fat content of the bonito to adjust the amount of straw used. The product is then packaged for gifts or sets, sorted on the production line, and subjected to “liquid flash freezing” at minus 35 degrees before being stored in cold storage.

Reportedly, 80 to 90 percent of production consists of tataki, with the remainder being rice bowls made with tuna.

Paving the Way for the Future with the Traditional “Single-Line Fishing” Method

Mr. Myojin says, “Our strength lies in the strong bonds we share—our executives, fishing captains, and food service managers are all family members, including siblings and relatives.” He adds, “As long as we have our boats, we can keep going, and our own vessels are indispensable for securing a stable supply of skipjack tuna.”

Currently, there are plans to build a new skipjack tuna vessel. From a company that knows the sea inside and out, one can sense a determination to constantly evolve. Mr. Myojin describes the current challenge as follows:

“You see, having served as a fishing captain from the age of 28 until I was 71, I can’t help but notice that every time I look out at the sea, the fish are dwindling. Compared to the size of the schools I saw in my 30s and 40s, the fishing grounds these days are worlds apart. I don’t think the fish themselves will ever completely disappear, but it’s certain that their numbers are declining. If we don’t secure our own supply of bonito, no matter how much people say ‘Myojin’s tataki is delicious,’ there’s nothing we can do once the raw materials run out. “We need to expand our deep-sea fishing operations.”

Myojin Suisan’s commitment to preserving marine resources through single-line fishing is unwavering. While facing the changing sea, they are striving to pass the baton to the next generation. I can’t help but hope that this time-honored fishing method will not only continue uninterrupted but actually expand, so that we can continue to enjoy delicious bonito.

The post Founded in 1959, “Myojin Suisan Co., Ltd.” has steadfastly preserved the tradition of pole-and-line bonito fishing and continues to support Kochi’s food culture / Kuroshio Town, Hata District, Kochi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Lake Shinji, located in Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture, is known as one of Japan’s leading production areas for shijimi clams. In the morning, small boats line the lake’s surface, and fishing begins amid the sound of outboard motors. To protect this bountiful lake, the fishermen once made a major decision. What is the story behind the shijimi clam fishery on Lake Shinji—one that the fishermen were determined to preserve, even to the point of returning the compensation they had already received? We explore the fishermen’s way of life and the history behind it.

Lake Shinji, One of Japan’s Leading Production Areas for Freshwater Clams

Lake Shinji is located in eastern Shimane Prefecture. Known as a “brackish lake”—a rarity in Japan—it is a body of water where freshwater flowing in from rivers such as the Hii River mixes with seawater entering from the Sea of Japan. This environment, where river fish and saltwater fish coexist, is unique to brackish waters. In fact, more than 100 different species of wildlife inhabit the lake.

One of Lake Shinji’s most iconic treasures is the “Yamato shijimi” clam. Known for its large size and rich umami flavor, the region boasts one of the highest catch volumes in the country. In 2024, the catch reached 4,590 metric tons, marking the 11th consecutive year the region has ranked first nationwide, solidifying its reputation as Japan’s leading producer of shijimi clams.

In the Izumo region, shijimi clams have long been cherished as an indispensable part of the daily diet, appearing in dishes such as miso soup and tsukudani. The Matsue and Izumo regions have cultivated a culture of living in harmony with the nature of Lake Shinji, and shijimi fishing is a practice that symbolizes this way of life.

An ideal environment for the growth of shijimi clams

The three main species of shijimi clams found in Japan are the “Yamato shijimi,” which inhabits brackish waters; the “Mashi shijimi,” a freshwater species; and the “Seta shijimi,” a species endemic to Lake Biwa. The Yamato shijimi harvested from Lake Shinji prefer an environment with a salinity level between that of seawater and freshwater. Lake Shinji, where freshwater and seawater mix and salinity fluctuates gently with the tides, provides an ideal habitat for these clams.

Grown in the nutrient-rich sand at the bottom of the lake, these clams are characterized by their large size and rich umami flavor. They are truly a gift nurtured by the natural environment.

Protecting the Lake and Passing It On to Future Generations

Hiroyuki Fukuma of the “Lake Shinji Fisheries Cooperative,” an organization that manages and markets fisheries on Lake Shinji. He is one of approximately 260 people who make their living from fishing for shijimi clams.

“Resource management is key,” he says, emphasizing that the cooperative focuses not only on harvesting shijimi clams but also on preserving the lake’s environment. He emphasizes the importance of continuing fishing while protecting the resource so that future generations can make shijimi fishing their livelihood and so that it will remain a specialty of Shimane Prefecture for generations to come.

To this end, the cooperative has established strict rules regarding daily catch limits, operating hours, and days off. The catch limit is set at two boxes per person per day (each box weighing 50–60 kilograms), and while the duration of each fishing trip varies depending on the method used, it is generally limited to about three to four hours. It is mandatory to return juvenile clams measuring 12 millimeters in diameter or less to the lake.

Including fishermen who catch species other than shijimi clams, approximately 700 people belong to the association. Members span a wide age range, from their early 20s to their 80s, but the fishery can only thrive when each individual prioritizes the lake’s environment and works cooperatively.

A scene of fishermen setting out to sea, symbolic of Matsue

Around 7:00 a.m., the sound of outboard motors echoes across the calm surface of the lake as small boats set out one after another. The depth of Lake Shinji varies depending on the fishing grounds, but it is generally between 2 and 4 meters. Upon reaching their respective fishing grounds, the fishermen begin their work from their small boats.

Small boats floating quietly on Lake Shinji, shrouded in morning mist. This scene has long been cherished as a symbol of morning in Matsue City.

“Joren,” a Traditional Fishing Tool

The methods used in shijimi fishing include not only mechanized operations using diesel-powered boats but also manual methods that are still practiced today, such as “iri-kaki,” in which fishermen enter the lake directly, and “te-kaki,” in which gear is operated from the boat. The fishing method Mr. Fukuma employs is “water-flow hand-raking,” which combines hand-raking with an engine-powered pump. The gear used is a uniquely shaped tool called a “joren.” This metal implement, resembling a rake, scoops up shijimi clams while raking the sand on the lake bottom.

Water is pumped through a hose from an engine-powered pump and sprayed forcefully from the nozzle, allowing fishermen to harvest freshwater clams while turning over the sand on the lake bottom. The fisherman propels the boat by pushing a pole about 8 meters long, then moves the boat by pulling the pole toward him. He repeats this process as he searches the sandy lake bottom.

Experienced fishermen are thoroughly familiar with the water depth and lake bottom conditions at each fishing ground. This method of fishing, which requires interpreting the natural conditions, is a task that truly demands skilled craftsmanship.

Careful Sorting to Ensure Quality

As soon as the shijimi clams are hauled in, the sorting process begins immediately on board. They are first sorted by size using machinery, and then carefully sorted again by hand. Since the catch limit is set at two boxes per person, the fishermen want to remove empty shells and keep only the larger, higher-quality shijimi clams.

Sorting is also done on land after the fishing is over. Fishermen gently shake or roll the clams to listen to the sound they make. They say they can tell how plump the clams are by the way the sound resonates. The difference in sound is so subtle that a layperson cannot distinguish it, but fishermen who have spent many years working with clams can clearly hear the difference.

The Decision Made by the Fishermen Who Protected Lake Shinji

The shijimi clam fishery on Lake Shinji once faced a major crisis. In the 1950s, plans were underway to convert Lake Shinji into a freshwater lake for use as agricultural water.

If the lake were converted to freshwater, the shijimi clams, which thrive in a brackish environment, would be severely affected. Local residents launched a campaign against the plan. After a staggering 155 rounds of negotiations, the fishermen realized they could not resist the national government’s plan; they accepted compensation and agreed to the project.

The Lake Saved by Returning the Compensation Money

In 1968, the freshwater conversion project began. However, as the extent of the damage to the shijimi clams became clear, opposition grew once again among residents of the Lake Shinji watershed. Led by shijimi fishermen, the “Movement Against Freshwater Conversion” soon gained momentum. They energetically carried out activities such as large-scale rallies, fishing boat parades, and the free distribution of shijimi clams.

Although compensation had been accepted at one point, the Lake Shinji Fisheries Cooperative decided to return the funds to the national government in order to protect the freshwater clams of Lake Shinji. This action resonated with the public, and the momentum behind the opposition movement reportedly grew even stronger.

Eventually, in 1988, the national and prefectural governments announced a postponement of the freshwater conversion project. In 2002, its official cancellation was declared. The environment of Lake Shinji and the freshwater clam fishery were thus preserved thanks to the strong determination of the residents and fishermen.

Passing on the Lake’s Bounty to Future Generations

In addition to cleaning the lake bottom, the Shinji Lake Fisheries Cooperative also carries out conservation activities such as collecting and releasing freshwater clam larvae. They aim to maintain the clam population by collecting larvae floating in the center of the lake and releasing them into their natural habitat.

“The lake water has become much cleaner compared to a dozen or so years ago,” says Mr. Fukuma. He notes that the household trash that used to float along the shore has almost disappeared, and speculates that a shift in local residents’ awareness may be contributing to the improved water quality. The fact that shijimi fishing continues in this area today—and that it boasts the highest catch volume in Japan—is a testament to how local residents and fishermen have consistently protected the lake’s environment.

Even today, the sight of small boats lined up on Lake Shinji symbolizes the way of life of the people who live in harmony with the lake. This fishing tradition, passed down over many years, will surely continue into the future thanks to the fishermen and the local community.

The post Lake Shinji: A Lake They Fought to Protect, Even at the Cost of Returning Compensation Funds. Preserving Japan’s Largest Freshwater Clam Fishery for Future Generations: “Lake Shinji Fisheries Cooperative” / Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Koishihama Scallops. What a wonderful name! Among the scallops produced along the coast of Iwate Prefecture, the “Koishihama scallops” from the fishing port of Koishihama, Ayari, Sanriku-cho, Ofunato City, are renowned as a brand of scallops. Jun Sasaki, the producer and president of the Iwate Prefecture Fishermen’s Association, has overcome the disaster and continues to produce high quality scallops.

What is Koishihama, Ofunato City, where Koishihama Scallops are produced?

The area off the coast of Sanriku is known as one of the best fishing grounds in the world, where the Oyashio tide from the north meets the Kuroshio tide from the south. Of the three prefectures of Sanriku (Aomori, Iwate, and Miyagi), the coast of Iwate Prefecture is characterized by a series of bays and a saw-toothed rias coastline.

Ofunato City, located in the southern part of the coast of Iwate Prefecture, has a number of bays, including Yoshihama Bay, Okirai Bay, Ayari Bay, and Ofunato Bay, where various types of fishing have been practiced since ancient times. In the bays where the waves are calmer, wakame seaweed, scallops, and ascidians are cultivated actively.

Koishihama in Ayazato, Sanriku-cho, Ofunato City, has been particularly active in scallop cultivation. Jun Sasaki, a fisherman from Koishihama and president of the Iwate Prefecture Fishermen’s Association, has been farming scallops here since his father’s generation.

What are “Koishihama Scallops”?

Iwate scallops have long had a good reputation in the central market, and around 1985, they once commanded the highest wholesale price in Japan at the Tsukiji market.

In 2008, Mr. Sasaki founded the Koishihama Youth Club. Until then, Koishihama fishermen had been shipping scallops to the market, but that did not show the name of the beach. So, through the Ayasato Fisheries Cooperative Association, they developed a sales channel for the scallops they grew so that they could ship them directly to ordinary consumers. The scallops were branded as “Koishihama scallops. The name “Koishihama Scallops” is a play on the Japanese pronunciation of “Koishihama. It has a nice sound to it.

The Sanriku Railway runs near the fishing port, and in 2009 the station name was changed to “Koishihama. The station has become a power spot for romance, and the station waiting room is decorated with ema (votive picture tablet) in which wishes are written on scallop shells.

High-quality plankton nurtures scallops.

Looking out over the landscape of Koshiki Bay, one can see that there are many broadleaf trees. In autumn, broadleaf trees fall off their leaves and turn to leaf litter. The seawater containing nutrients from this leaf litter provides nourishment for marine life. On the other hand, off the coast of Sanriku, where the Oyashio and Kuroshio currents collide, phytoplankton is born, and zooplankton that feed on the phytoplankton gather there.

Ofunato’s inner bay, which contains plankton from the sea and nutrients from the mountains, is a very good environment for scallops. In Koishihama, only scallops that meet certain standards among those raised with care are sold as “Koishihama scallops.

Ear-suspension type of aquaculture born in Ofunato

Scallop cultivation begins with the collection of scallop larvae (rahbas) that come in from the northern ocean on the Oyashio tide from April to June. rahbas are collected in May, and by September they are about 1 cm in size. 20 tiers of cages are made, each containing 50 scallop larvae. As the scallops grow, the number of scallops in the cage becomes denser, so the number is reduced to 25 in December, then 10 in February, and so on, until the scallops are 8 cm in diameter, which takes about one year.

Once the scallops have grown to 8 cm in diameter, holes are made in the shells and the scallops are hung from ropes for aquaculture. This method of cultivation is called the “ear-hanging” method. This method of cultivation is currently practiced from Aomori to Miyagi, but was actually invented in Ofunato.

The “ear-suspension” method was established around 1960. It was devised to efficiently raise scallops in Ofunato, where the water is deep and the bays are intricate, and has been used to this day. Ofunato does not have shallow sandy beaches like those in Hokkaido, so it is not possible to harvest a large number of scallops using the “ground sowing” method of cultivation, which grows scallops on the sea bottom. Therefore, the “ground sowing” method of cultivation, in which scallops are hung from ropes suspended in the water, was devised in an attempt to cultivate as many scallops as possible by taking advantage of the depth of the sea. Because the scallops do not stick to the seafloor, sand does not get inside the shells.

Ofunato’s bay is about 40 meters deep, and scallop cultivation has flourished because of this topography.

Sparing no pains to produce high-quality scallops

Scallops are hung from ropes and grow to a large size in the bay over a period of about one year. Counting from the larvae, the scallops are shipped after about two years. Koishihama scallops compete on the quality of each scallop, as the fishing grounds are limited.

In order to grow high-quality scallops, Mr. Sasaki keeps a gap between shells and cleans the shells at least twice a year. Seaweed and barnacles adhere to the shells. If these are not removed regularly, the seaweed and barnacles will take away the nutrients that the scallops feed on. Not only that, but the rope will become heavier due to the attached materials, causing it to fall.

Even so, the larger the scallops grow, the lower the ropes become. It is the fisherman’s job to adjust the height of the rope. Sasaki says, “The scallops are held together by ropes, so we raise and lower the height of the ropes all year round to keep them suspended at a depth where there is plenty of food.” He raises and lowers the ropes based on his years of experience in checking whether the sun’s rays are reaching the area and whether the tide is running fast enough. Mr. Sasaki is particular about the scallops he grows, cleaning the shells and adjusting the ropes.

Overcoming the Earthquake

Koishihama scallops, sold directly by the Ayasato Fisheries Cooperative, have been successfully branded. The thick scallops, sweet and delicious even when eaten as is, gained a reputation, and the number of orders increased. However, in March 2011, the Great East Japan Earthquake struck. The Great East Japan Earthquake struck. Koishihama was also hit by the tsunami.

I was at sea when the Great East Japan Earthquake hit. When I returned to the beach, I found that the situation was very serious,” said Sasaki. After the earthquake, it was not possible to start fishing immediately. The fishing port had subsided and the cargo handling station had been washed away.

Immediately after the disaster, people he met through Koishihama Scallops offered their support. Some people even rushed to the area to offer their support. In the midst of all this, an overseas volunteer group appeared to offer support for the damaged fishing port, and Mr. Sasaki negotiated with them about the current status of the fishing port and what was needed for its recovery. His natural mobility and sociable personality, which helped him brand the “Koishihama scallops,” made it possible for him to engage in dialogue with foreign dignitaries without fear, which paid off.

Thanks to support from overseas, in 2014, the subsided fishing port was improved and a cargo handling station was completed in Koishihama. The speed of reconstruction was one of the fastest on the coast. Along with the reconstruction of the fishing port and cargo handling station, the scallops that had been cultivated were ready for shipment. In 2014, scallop shells were cleaned and sorted at the cargo handling station, and scallops of good quality were ready for shipment.

He was told by a support group that if they had not known about Koishihama Scallops, they might not have come here. Mr. Sasaki is grateful for the support and human connections he has received, saying, “When we first started (Koishihama Scallops), some people said, ‘What are you trying to do?

Going to the Sea with His Wife Isabelle

Mr. Sasaki met his wife, Isabelle, after the disaster. Originally from inland France, Isabelle had practiced karate since childhood and grew up interested in Japanese culture. After graduating from a Japanese university and finding a job, Isabelle visited Ofunato many times as a volunteer after the earthquake. Although Isabelle was working in Tokyo at the time, Ofunato became like a second home to her.

In 2020, she married Mr. Sasaki. She now works as a tourist guide and interpreter, and also rows out to sea with Mr. Sasaki to work as a fisherman.

In France, I was not much of a seafood eater, but I did like scallops. But when I ate Koishihama scallops, I was surprised (laughs). I thought,” he laughs cheerfully.

The Sea Connects Ofunato and Europe

In France, scallops are called “Coquilles Saint-Jacques. These are called “European scallops,” and technically speaking, they are a different species from Japanese scallops. However, off the coast of Sanriku in Japan, far away from France, coquille saint-Jacques can sometimes be found in the nursery. These are the shells depicted in Botticelli’s painting “The Birth of Venus,” which have a slightly fluffier shell than Japanese scallops.

In other words, the oceans are connected. In this light, the story of the “Koishihama Scallop” is a romantic tale of a man of the sea.

Delivering Quality Koishihama Scallops in the Future

Global warming is having a tremendous impact on the oceans. The place where the Oyashio (cold current) and the Kuroshio (warm current) collide is moving northward. The warm currents are so strong that the fishing grounds for lobsters, which should normally be caught off the coast of Ibaraki, are also moving northward.

Scallops prefer a cold environment. Scallops hibernate when the water temperature drops below 5°C. After hibernation, they feed on nutrients when the water temperature rises and grow larger. In recent years, due to global warming, water temperatures no longer fall below 5°C. Because the sea water temperature does not drop in winter, scallops lose the opportunity to hibernate. It is as if the next summer will arrive without the scallops having recovered from their summer fatigue. Some of them die without growing large.

The fisherman’s job is a natural one. They do not know what will happen the next year due to changes in the environment. Even so, Mr. Sasaki says, “We will never give up on scallops. He is determined to maintain the quality of Koishihama scallops. Even if the sea changes, we will live by the sea with the pride of being fishermen. As Mr. Sasaki gazes out to sea with his arms folded, I felt the determination of a man with a mission on his shoulders.

The post In “Longing Beach Scallops,” I see the romance of a man of the sea. Fisherman Jun Sasaki / Ofunato City, Iwate Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.