Kami City in Kochi Prefecture has long been a hub of forestry and agriculture. The Monobe River, a Class 1 river that originates at Mount Shiraga and flows into Tosa Bay, runs through this area. Pure water carried down from the upstream mountains, the excellent drainage typical of alluvial fans, and an inland climate characterized by significant temperature fluctuations between day and night. Captivated by this blessed environment, newcomers have established a brewery and are working alongside the local community to create one-of-a-kind craft beer.

From Osaka to Kochi: The Beginning of a Move Inspired by the “Lifestyle”

Shinya Setoguchi first visited Kochi because his brother-in-law was attending Kochi University.

Unspoiled nature, food that delights the palate, and warm-hearted people. Captivated by all of it, he recalls thinking, “First of all, I want to live in this area.”

At the time, Setoguchi was an engineer who had studied science and engineering from technical high school through graduate school. Even while working in the electronics industry, he was always searching, deep down, for “a job to which he could devote his life.” In his late 20s, amid a period of uncertainty and soul-searching, he discovered craft beer.

He traveled to breweries across the country, witnessed the dedication of the brewers, and learned that beer had become an integral part of local culture. He then underwent training in Portland, Oregon, and upon returning to Japan, spent a year apprenticing at Iwami Beer Co., Ltd. in Shimane Prefecture. That was the moment when “what he wanted to keep making for the rest of his life” began to take concrete shape.

Craft beer is a craft that involves engaging with ingredients, the land, and people. Mr. Setoguchi was captivated by its depth and eventually came to strongly desire, “I want to brew my own beer in a place of my own choosing.”

The Birth of a Small Brewery Supported by the Community

Eight years after moving to Kochi, Mr. Setoguchi opened a brewery in Kami City.

His first workshop was an old, turnkey property offered to him by a local resident who said, “I can rent this to you cheaply.” He polished the floors, painted the walls, built the equipment himself, and handled the entire brewing process all by himself. It was truly a start from scratch, but with nothing but his determination to “brew here in this region,” Mr. Setoguchi continued working quietly.

Eventually, after being featured in newspapers and on television, orders skyrocketed. Even brewing twice a day wasn’t enough to keep up, and his exhaustion reached its peak.

It was then that a local resident asked, “You’re in a bind, aren’t you?” and volunteered to help him apply labels for a full six months.

It was the moment when the entire community embraced him, a newcomer to the area. Mr. Setoguchi says he felt strongly that “I’m not brewing beer alone. I’m brewing it together with the community.”

Beer that can only be brewed in Kochi. A philosophy that puts the ingredients front and center.

At the heart of Mr. Setoguchi’s beer-making is always the “ingredients.” His first projects featured Kochi-grown yuzu, rice from terraced fields, sansho pepper, and Tosa bunkwan.

“I make the ingredients the stars, not just a subtle accent,” he says. For ingredients that impart astringency, he designs the beer to envelop them; for those where he wants to bring out the aroma, he refines the profile through fermentation temperature and hops. He creates harmony in the beer while respecting the individuality of each ingredient. Although the malt currently comes from Germany, he repeatedly tests saccharification efficiency and flavor compatibility, blending them over and over to find the optimal solution.

This approach—working backward from the ingredients to define “the meaning of brewing in Kochi”—gives the beer an unshakable core.

Mr. Setoguchi explains, “The taste of the beer is shaped by the very background of the ingredients.”

The producers’ passion, the local climate, and the changing seasons—all of these are part of the beer. That is precisely why placing the ingredients at the center is also an act of encapsulating the very essence of Kochi itself within the beer.

A Return to Our Roots Amid the COVID-19 Pandemic: The Birth of “Regional Beers”

The COVID-19 pandemic struck the brewery, which had been growing steadily. Sales plummeted by half, forcing the company to furlough its employees. However, this “forced hiatus” led Mr. Setoguchi to return to his roots.

A strong passion—“to brew beer for the community”—was rekindled in his heart.

This led to the creation of region-exclusive beers such as “Shimanto Bushukan Ale” and “Hidaka Village Fruit Tomato Ale.” Following a newspaper feature, requests poured in from roadside stations across the prefecture, and collaborative regional beers began to emerge one after another.

Beer made with local ingredients, crafted with local people, and enjoyed locally.

It was more than just a product; it served as a medium for telling the stories of the land.

“Wa-Jo Kölsch”: Where Japanese and Western Fermentation Cultures Meet

Mr. Setoguchi’s workshop features a “koshiki,” which is a rare sight in a brewery.

Here, rice, sweet potatoes, chestnuts, and heirloom corn are steamed over an open flame and then converted into glucose over the course of 48 hours in an amazake saccharification tank.

Furthermore, we developed “Wajo,” a unique fermentation technique that combines sake yeast with beer yeast.

The fruity aroma and crisp, clean finish produced by this process were reminiscent of “Kölsch,” a beer style traditionally brewed in the Cologne region of western Germany, so we named it Wajo Kölsch.

The aroma, a harmonious blend of the delicacy of sake yeast and the robustness of beer yeast, is the magic of fermentation—something that can never be replicated through cooking.

He continues to take bold risks by incorporating local ingredients, such as using “kaya nuts” in place of hops.

This beer, where Japanese and Western fermentation cultures intersect, embodies Mr. Setoguchi’s philosophy.

“Using local ingredients, local water, and creating it with local people.” This approach is giving birth to a new culture of fermentation.

The “smooth finish” created by Ryugakudo’s hard water

The area has such limestone-rich strata that Ryugado Cave—one of Japan’s three great limestone caves—is located on the mountain where the brewery stands. The brewery’s well water originates from an underground water source within this mountain; having flowed underground for over 100 million years, it is a moderately hard water rich in minerals and magnesium. While many breweries in Japan brew with soft water, here they can brew using water whose quality is closer to that of European ale culture.

Mr. Setoguchi says, “The water determines the direction of the flavor.”

Moderately hard water provides not only sweetness and umami but also forms the backbone of bitterness and astringency. This water is what supports the “clean finish”—a smooth, unbroken line that flows seamlessly from the aroma to the aftertaste.

This hard water, which shares its origins with Ryugado Cave, gives Kochi Campagne Brewery’s beers a unique crispness and depth, creating a character found nowhere else.

“Beer for Sharing.” Promoting the Monobe River Basin Brand!

Mr. Setoguchi’s dream is to develop the entire Monobe River basin into a single brand. He hopes to create a place where visitors can fully experience the charm of this region through dining, lodging, and hands-on activities.

An essential part of that experience is a beverage that brings people together around the same table to share a toast and laughter. To appeal to both beer lovers and those who aren’t fond of beer, he has made the development of low-alcohol and non-alcoholic beers a priority for the future.

Preparations are also underway to welcome a video production team to share the stories behind the ingredients and the producers’ passion.

Co-creating and conveying inspiration. With this philosophy in mind, Mr. Setoguchi continues to brew beer today that could only be born in this region.

The post “Kochi Campagne Brewery”: A One-of-a-Kind Craft Beer Crafted from Kochi’s Local Ingredients and People / Kami City, Kochi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Hirako Shuzo, brewing sake since 1861 in Ishinomaki City, home to the Sanriku and Kinkasan offshore fishing grounds—one of the world’s three great fishing areas. Their flagship brand, “Hitakami,” is a sake dedicated not to competing for flamboyance, but to enhancing sushi. Meticulous fermentation control, possible only in a small brewery, and sake born from land sharing the fishing grounds now earns deep trust from sushi chefs nationwide.

“Sake that pairs well with sushi” wasn’t the original goal

Hirako Shuzo’s “Hitakami” has won a total of 18 gold medals at the National New Sake Appraisal and has also been honored with the Miyagi Prefectural Governor’s Award (the highest prize) at the Miyagi Prefecture Sake Appraisal. However, the path to being recognized as “sake that pairs well with sushi” was far from smooth sailing.

The resolve that began with the declaration to “close the brewery”

Born as the son of the fourth-generation owner of Heikō Shuzō, Takahiro Hirai had no intention of taking over the family business after graduating from a university in Miyagi Prefecture. He instead found employment in Tokyo. However, a turning point came suddenly. In his second year as a working adult, his father came to Tokyo and announced, “We’re closing the brewery.”

At that time, the sake industry was under pressure from shochu and beer, with many breweries closing down. While Heikō Shuzō had long been beloved locally under the brand name “Shinzeki,” its performance had significantly declined. Working in the sake division of a wholesaler, Hirai began to recognize the appeal of his family business through his interactions with various breweries and sake companies.”I couldn’t accept why we had to close. Even if my father couldn’t do it, I could,” he strongly protested, deciding to take over the brewery. He returned to Ishinomaki in 1987, but achieving his ideal sake-making didn’t happen immediately.

Days of searching for a unique identity to create marketable sake

After the bubble burst, the sake industry was in the midst of fierce price competition. Mass production and mass distribution became the norm, leaving small regional breweries with no choice but to load their trucks and sell door-to-door. Though Hirai had taken over with high hopes, he often found himself wanting to turn away from the harsh reality, far tougher than he’d imagined.

Meanwhile, signs of a local sake boom were emerging, demanding answers to “how to deliver it” and “how to get chosen.” Existing products like “Shin-Sekki” couldn’t sustain the business, and he agonized constantly over the future. It was during this struggle that he arrived at “Hidaka-mi.”

“While randomly researching discontinued products, I noticed ‘Hidakami,’ a sake my father had brewed. I liked the sound of ‘looking up to the sun.’ Upon investigation, I learned it was a term deeply connected to this region. I felt it was fitting for us, brewing sake in Ishinomaki.”

The name “Hidaka-mi” embodies both the land’s history and their own resolve. They resolved to reintroduce this name, carrying both meanings. They then decided to streamline their product lineup and refresh their brand image, shifting from “Oyasan Seki” to “Hidaka-mi.”

Shifting Focus to “Sake That Pairs Well with Sushi”

In 1990, sales of the ginjo sake “Hidakami” began. At that time, the sake market tended to view ginjo status as a benchmark for quality, making it essential to first establish a foundation for recognition. Before articulating a clear concept, this was a tactical move to stand at the starting line where brewers could be fairly evaluated. They continued selling the sake while developing distribution channels, but the situation didn’t improve immediately.Faced with the reality of not being chosen, we continually pondered not just how to brew, but “what purpose this sake serves.”

Finding a path forward in its role to complement cuisine

The clue to becoming a “chosen sake” came when a colleague studying brewing at the Brewing Research Institute invited him to a sushi restaurant in Kanazawa. The sushi served there wasn’t part of a course meal; the sushi itself was the star. For Hirai, who was used to eating sushi within kaiseki cuisine, this experience was a shock. He was moved by how the rice and topping became one, melting in his mouth.When he asked the sushi chef to pair his sake with the sushi, he received an unexpected response.

“The aroma is good. But when paired with the sushi, the sake overpowers it.”

In that moment, he realized that a sake with a bold, floral aroma could overwhelm the delicate qualities of a dish like sushi. “Sake shouldn’t be the star; it should support the food,” he decided. “ I’ll make a sake that doesn’t interfere with sushi’s subtlety, but rather enhances it. “

The “ultra-dry junmai sake” he arrived at after years of effort

The sake aimed for as a perfect match for sushi was an ultra-dry junmai sake with a clean finish and no off-flavors. The goal was to not interfere with the delicate umami and flavors of seafood, while gently washing down the fat and the sweetness of the rice. To determine the ideal level of dryness for sushi, the brewer conveyed the vision, repeated the brewing process, and brought samples to sushi restaurants, enduring harsh critiques each time.

Through meticulous fermentation control and aging, we finally perfected “Hidakami Ultra Dry Junmai Sake” in 2008. It holds its character perfectly whether served chilled or warmed, enhancing the umami of fish.

Its soft mouthfeel and clean finish, especially its excellent pairing with red fish, earned it high praise as a dining sake. Born in Ishinomaki, where delicious seasonal fish are caught year-round, it adopted the catchphrase: “If you’re pairing with fish, it’s got to be Hidaka-mi.”

Facing adversity and refining quality

However, the Great East Japan Earthquake struck in 2011, with its epicenter in the Pacific off the Sanriku coast. “Just as we were getting started, the disaster hit,” recalls Mr. Hirai.

Moving forward with the support of sushi chefs

The Great East Japan Earthquake inflicted devastating tsunami damage on Hirako Shuzo. The koji room, shubo room, and fermentation room—essential for sake brewing—became unusable, plunging the brewery into an uncertain future. Yet Hirai remained forward-looking: “True recovery means evolving from this point.” He renovated the entire facility with stainless steel, establishing an environment enabling strict temperature and hygiene control. The brewery was reborn, capable of pursuing even more stable quality than before.

A major source of support during this rebuilding process came from the sushi chefs he had befriended while searching for “sake that pairs well with sushi.” They rushed to Ishinomaki with their teams to provide meals.

Continuing to Release New Products Without Pause

Born during this rebuilding effort was the Junmai Ginjo sake “Yasuke,” released in 2012.Off the Sanriku coast and Kinkasan Island, seafood with a delicate sweetness—such as shellfish and white-fleshed fish—is commonly landed. However, the “Hidakami Super Dry Junmai Sake” sometimes overemphasized this subtle umami. Thus, “Yasuke” was born, aiming to be a softer sake that enhances the natural sweetness of ingredients.

Its defining characteristic is the harmonious balance of a rich, full-bodied umami flavor and a sharp, clean finish. While offering a gentle taste, its transparent clarity allows it to slip away smoothly, ensuring it doesn’t overpower the lingering flavors of food. It is particularly renowned for its excellent pairing with sweet seafood like white fish and squid.At the “SAKE COMPETITION 2025,” which determines the world’s best commercially available sake, it won Bronze in the Junmai Ginjo category.

The sake’s name originates from the kabuki play “Yoshitsune Senbonzakura” and has historically been used in the entertainment district to refer to sushi. It revives this name in modern times, embodying respect for sushi culture and the connection with sushi artisans.

Through sake brewing, we aim to create moments of happiness for those who drink it.

“We want to be the unsung hero supporting the deliciousness of sushi,” says Mr. Hirai. For him, Hidaka-mi is not a sake that asserts itself. Based on the pairing concept where food and sake complement each other’s flavors, the focus is on enriching the sushi-eating experience itself.

While currently exporting overseas, they avoid indiscriminately expanding distribution channels. They engage only with chefs and restaurants who share their philosophy and approach them saying, “We want to use Hirai’s sake.”

Hidaka Shuzo, bearing the name of the sun-blessed land “Hidaka Country,” continues to challenge itself in sake brewing that can only be done here, in this land, in this brewery. Today, “Hidaka” is a sake you’ll almost certainly find in any sushi restaurant. We encourage you to try it as a sake that makes that moment of bringing sushi to your mouth an even more special time.

The post Takahiro Hirai, President of Hirako Shuzo, Pursuing “Sake That Pairs Well with Sushi” by the Rich Sea / Ishinomaki City, Miyagi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.