Hiroyuki Kadowaki (pictured right), owner of “CAFE ROSSO,” who took second place at the “World Barista Championship,” one of the world’s largest barista competitions. A barista who has taken on the world from Shimane, he has pursued his own unique cup of coffee through in-house roasting. His younger brother, Yuji (pictured left), who runs “CAFFE VITA,” has also won numerous awards in domestic competitions, including championships, and is active as a seminar instructor and judge. The two are based in Shimane Prefecture, where they were born and raised. Why do they continue to brew coffee here, despite possessing the skills to succeed on the world stage?

My vision of the future was inspired by everyday life with coffee

The ground floor of his family home was a coffee shop, where his father, Yoshimi, brewed coffee every day. He always passed by the shop on his way to and from school. It was a scene he took for granted.

“When I was in eighth grade, the shop switched to in-house roasting, and the coffee became much better,” recalls Hiroyuki. “As I visited various shops with my father to compare the flavors, I found it fascinating that ‘only my father could create that particular taste.’”

Watching his father at work, a future in the coffee business naturally began to take shape. However, as he started to think more concretely about his career path, the feeling that “I can’t surpass my father’s coffee” began to take root. Rather than taking over the shop, he decided he wanted to open his own place, expressing himself in a way that only he could. Driven by this desire, after graduating from high school, he took a job at a Western-style pastry shop in Osaka to learn how to make desserts. He worked as a pastry chef for six years, laying the groundwork to expand his creative expression as a café owner.

In search of my own unique flavor, I headed to Italy

In the mid-1990s, foreign coffee chains began entering the Japanese market. Espresso machines—still a rarity at the time—along with diverse menus and bright, open-concept stores, spread primarily in urban areas, introducing a new way of enjoying coffee. Until then, drip coffee—made by pouring hot water over ground beans—had been the mainstream in Japan. Espresso, brewed under high pressure, was still virtually unknown. “I felt like the possibilities of coffee had suddenly expanded, and I was convinced that ‘this is going to catch on.’” Upon learning that its roots lay in Italy, Hiroyuki traveled there to experience the authentic taste firsthand. He had found the style he wanted to pursue.

Create and nurture your own sense of direction

Espresso is the standard in Italian coffee culture. Yoshi traveled from northern to southern Italy, visiting countless bars (cafés). He gradually developed his own vision for coffee by observing not only the flavors but also the layout of the shops and how customers relaxed. After returning to Japan, he mastered the operation of espresso machines while learning the art of in-house roasting at his father’s shop. Then, in 1999, he opened his own shop, “CAFE ROSSO,” in Yasugi City, the same town as his father’s. Watching his older brother, Yuji naturally decided to pursue a career in coffee as well. Like his brother, he worked at a pastry shop and explored his own style in Italy. He later opened “CAFFE VITA” in Matsue City.

Taking on the Barista Championship

A few years after opening, a turning point arrived. A business partner asked them, “There’s a contest coming up—would you like to enter?” The competition in question was the “Japan Barista Championship,” organized by the Japan Specialty Coffee Association. It is one of the largest barista competitions in the country, held with the aim of promoting a culture of high-quality coffee. Specialty coffee refers to high-quality coffee that meets specific evaluation standards, and a barista’s brewing skills are essential to bringing out its full flavor. The competition evaluates participants comprehensively on factors such as flavor quality, technical skill, and hospitality. They entered the 2003 competition simply to test their skills. To their surprise, Hiroyuki won first place and Yuji took second. It was the moment their skills were objectively recognized.

Runner-up at the World Championship. The decision to roast their own beans that led to this achievement

In 2005, Hiroyuki competed in the World Barista Championship. This global competition, open only to winners of the aforementioned national tournament, marked his debut as a representative of Japan. The judging criteria included not only taste but also service skills and presentation. At the time, it was no easy feat for an Asian to take on the espresso culture of Europe and the United States.

However, Hiroyuki took second place with a unique presentation featuring beans he had roasted himself. “Back then, almost everyone used commercially available beans. But I used beans I roasted myself and competed with an original flavor profile.” He established the foundation of the flavor through roasting and maximized that flavor during extraction. This choice, made to create a taste unlike any other, is undoubtedly still alive in his coffee-making today.

Our Commitment to Roasting: What Defines the Taste of Our Coffee

Even with the same beans, the flavor of coffee can vary greatly depending on the roast. Slight differences in heat and time can affect the acidity, sweetness, and body. “I once drank coffee brewed by a top-tier barista and was amazed by the depth of flavor. I thought, ‘I want to aim for this taste,’ but I realized that brewing alone wasn’t enough—I needed to create the flavor through roasting. That’s when I decided to seriously pursue roasting,” he says, recounting his beginnings. He wants to take full responsibility for the flavor, right to the very end.

Designing the flavors we want to deliver

Since the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, more people have been enjoying coffee at home. At the shop run by the two of them, they also sell coffee beans and drip bags. Authentic ways of enjoying coffee, such as grinding the beans and brewing them yourself, are becoming increasingly popular. “To ensure our customers can enjoy delicious coffee, we deliver beans that have been carefully roasted to bring out their full flavor. While our baristas bring out the maximum flavor in the shop, it’s difficult to replicate that at home. That’s why we’re researching the timing of the roast and the proportion of the bean’s outer layer to ensure it tastes great no matter who brews it,” says Yuji. Their current goal is to achieve a rich, reddish-brown crema (foam) and a body that holds its own against milk.

Hiroyuki, too, remains unwavering in his pursuit of the ideal flavor, saying, “I want to convey the thrill I felt when I drank coffee in Naples, Italy.”

They aim to bring happiness through coffee. Roasting is simply one means to that end.

We continue to create coffee that complements any occasion

In recent years, there has also been growing interest in specialty coffee that emphasizes specific origins. Single-origin coffee, made from beans produced in a specific region, stands out for its distinct character. On the other hand, the appeal of blends—which combine beans from multiple origins—lies in the diverse flavors they offer depending on the mix.

The shop carries two types of coffee beans: Arabica and Robusta. While Arabica beans have a vibrant aroma and fruity acidity, Robusta beans are characterized by their strong bitterness and deep body. By carefully assessing each origin and its unique characteristics, they create the optimal flavor profile.

With coffee bean prices continuing to rise, they suggest a variety of ways to enjoy coffee: “For everyday life, enjoy a wide range of flavors with an affordable blend, and on special occasions, treat yourself to the luxurious experience of single-origin coffee.”

The coffee they serve isn’t meant to impress with its “greatness”; rather, it’s a cup that naturally makes you say, “This is delicious.”

In a town where the tea ceremony culture runs deep, we are dedicated solely to coffee

The Matsue area is also known for the fact that during the Edo period, the feudal lord Matsudaira Fumai promoted the tea ceremony. In this town, where the culture of the tea ceremony has taken root, a daily cup of tea has always been cherished. Coffee, too, is something to be enjoyed naturally as part of everyday life. What they seek is not a taste that surprises, but one that makes you want to have another cup.

When asked about their future plans, Hiroyuki says, “We want to pursue our own unique coffee and share it with the whole country. We aim for a flavor that makes people think, ‘I didn’t know coffee could taste this good.’” Yuji adds, “We want to offer ways to enjoy coffee from various angles. We don’t just run a café; we also hold coffee machine demonstrations and seminars.”

Hiroyuki refines the “flavor,” while Yuji spreads the “culture.” While their approach of staying close to everyday life is a common thread, their individual passions are guiding coffee-infused living in a positive direction. The cup of coffee born in Shimane will continue to enrich the daily lives of many people.

The post In pursuit of the perfect cup of coffee that enriches everyday life. Hiroyuki and Yuji Kadowaki / Yasugi City and Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Okinawa has long been influenced by American culture, and coffee has been a beloved staple there for generations. Discovering the story behind Okinawa’s “coffee beans” is another way to experience a new side of the island. Yoshiyuki Nakamura, owner and roaster at “Mame Pole Pole,” shared with us the appeal of Okinawan coffee as it emerges into the spotlight.

To Koza, and Then to the Highlands

“Coffee isn’t just bitter; it can have chocolatey or fruity notes—it’s a diverse and fascinating world,” says Nakamura. Since opening his shop in Okinawa City, located in central Okinawa Prefecture, in 2010, he relocated once to accommodate a new roasting machine, and in 2024, due to the aging of the original building, he established a new shop in the Takahara district of the same city.

The old shop in Koza was built on the site of the New York Restaurant, which opened in the 1950s and was the first in Okinawa to serve Western-style cuisine. The design made use of that charm, allowing visitors to feel the history. The original sign and blue rust were deliberately left as they were, the roaster sat majestically at the back of the shop, and the aroma that lingered inside made you want to breathe deeply.Mr. Nakamura himself was particularly fond of the space, where the balance between old and new felt just right, allowing visitors to experience the atmosphere of that era—a blend of Okinawan and American cultures. Naturally, that same aesthetic has been carried over to the new shop in Takahara.

Roasting Skills Recognized Worldwide Through Dedication

Mr. Nakamura was deeply impressed by Vietnamese coffee he encountered during his college graduation trip and gained experience as a barista after returning home. Being the type of person who, once he starts something, is determined to master it, he taught himself through repeated trial and error.Seeking roasting techniques unavailable in Okinawa, he traveled all over Japan. It was during this period of training that he began competing in the “Japan Coffee Roasting Championship” (JCRC). He won the JCRC in 2017, and subsequently represented Japan at the WCRC (World Coffee Roasting Championship) held in Italy in 2019, where he took second place in the world on his very first attempt.

As a roaster, Nakamura focuses on creating a clean finish and a sweet aftertaste. “Whether it’s a light roast or a dark roast, I take care to ensure the finish ends on a sweet note,” he says. People now travel from all over Japan to seek out Nakamura’s beans.

Bringing Out the Bean’s Character: A Dialogue with Coffee

Coffee is a luxury item. Everyone has their own preferred taste, and how the flavor is perceived changes depending on the environment and time of day. As a roaster, Nakamura pursues quality while engaging in a dialogue with the beans in this world without a single “correct” answer, drawing out their potential and individuality.

Even beans from the same variety at the same farm can transform into something entirely different depending on the post-harvest processing methods. For example, sun-drying the beans while still attached to the fruit imparts a rich, berry-like sweetness and body, whereas washing them to remove the pulp brings out a clean, crisp acidity.

Furthermore, the fermentation process—which has garnered attention in recent years—also plays a key role in shaping the flavor. By blocking oxygen and activating microorganisms, complex aromas reminiscent of wine and spices—unseen in traditional coffee—are brought to the fore. Mr. Nakamura says that the appeal of coffee lies in controlling these countless variables to weave the story of each cup.

“Coffee beans, just like us humans, aren’t all the same. Their individuality changes depending on the environment in which they were grown,” says Nakamura.

The roasting time also varies depending on the bean. He explains that he assesses the bean’s condition—such as its size and hardness—to discern its character, visualizes how to finish it, and then determines the roasting method. Depending on the bean’s individuality, not only does the roast level (dark or light) change, but even the recommended way to drink it varies. For instance, if the body is strong, it works well in a cappuccino where it holds its own against the milk.

Farmers take great care during the “processing” stage, which involves extracting the seeds (the part that becomes the coffee bean) from harvested coffee cherries (the fruit) and drying them. Furthermore, the flavors and acidity you experience when drinking the coffee are rooted in the taste of the land where the beans were grown. Because Nakamura values his dialogue with the beans, he confirms where they were born and the environment in which they grew, checking their moisture content and fermentation levels.

As the moisture evaporates, the sound changes.
The beans from “Mame Pole Pole” undergo this relay of care before being roasted in a meticulously selected German roaster.

Okinawa’s World-Renowned Specialty Coffee

What truly surprises Nakamura is the coffee bean “Akachichi” from ADA Farm, a coffee farm located in the Yanbaru Forest in northern Okinawa—the first in Japan to receive specialty coffee certification.

“Akachichi” derives from “akatsuki,” the Okinawan word for dawn. Mr. Nakamura named it with the hope that this would not just be a passing trend, but a dawn that leads to the future.

The intense acidity and fruity flavor characteristic of high-quality coffee beans are created by temperature fluctuations. These fluctuations harden the beans, locking in sugar and making them sweet. Indeed, coffee is a fruit. However, Okinawa has low elevation and minimal temperature variation.It cannot be said to be blessed with an ideal environment for growing coffee beans, and cultivating specialty coffee was considered difficult. So why was Akachichi grown in Okinawa and certified as specialty coffee? The answer lies in the dedication and passion of Mr. Tokuda of ADA Farm, who is meticulous about the ripeness of every single bean.

“Ensuring that every cup of coffee consumed by the customer has a wonderful flavor and is satisfyingly delicious.”
The essence of specialty coffee, as defined by the Specialty Coffee Association of Japan (SCAJ), lies not only in the quality of the beans but also in thorough management and sustainability from production to extraction.The beans from “ADA Farm,” nestled in the deep forests of Yanbaru, embody this ideal. And the roasting by “Mame Pole Pole” connects the producer’s passion and the breath of the forest to us in the finest possible state. Beans grown in the forests of Okinawa and recognized worldwide are roasted by someone who loves this island, bringing out their unique character. Then, they are carefully brewed using the water of this land.The dedication of these two individuals converges to create the ultimate luxury: “satisfying deliciousness.”

To deliver “a cup of coffee that can only be made here and will astonish the world,” they continue to walk alongside the forest today, pouring their passion into every single bean.

The post “Mame Porepore”: A Special Coffee You Can Only Enjoy in Okinawa / Okinawa City, Okinawa Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.