Pineapple fields stretch across the rolling hills overlooking the sea. Located on the east coast of northern Okinawa Island, Higashi Village in Kunigami District is the home of “Gold Barrel,” a premium pineapple that accounts for just 5% of Japan’s total production. What is the story behind the “King of Pineapples”—the Gold Barrel—and the aspirations of its young growers?

The History of Pineapple Cultivation in Okinawa Prefecture

Okinawa Prefecture accounts for nearly 100% of Japan’s domestic pineapple production, with an annual harvest of approximately 7,000 to 8,000 metric tons. It is said that pineapple cultivation began in 1866 when seedlings washed ashore from a Dutch ship that had run aground off the coast of Ishigaki Island. After World War II, when cultivation and breed improvement for canning began in earnest, pineapples grew to become one of the two major staple crops alongside sugarcane by the 1960s.

However, the once-thriving pineapple industry suffered a major blow with the liberalization of canned product imports in 1990, and cultivation of the Hawaiian variety “N67-10”—which had been the mainstay for processing—began to decline.

Shift to high-value-added varieties for fresh consumption

Although pineapple cultivation had declined at one point, Okinawa Prefecture is shifting toward growing high-value-added varieties intended for fresh consumption. Today, the prefecture produces “Snack Pine” (official name: Bogor Pine), which can be torn apart by hand and eaten as a snack, the small, white-fleshed “Peach Pine” (official name: Soft Touch), the intensely sweet “Sandolce” (official name: Okino P17), the “White Coco” (official name: Okino P19) with its coconut-like aroma, and the premium “Gold Barrel” (official name: Gold Barrel Pine). These and many other fresh-eating varieties have been developed and are now being cultivated, steadily expanding their market share.

The Birth of the Premium “Gold Barrel” Pineapple

“Gold Barrel,” registered as a new variety in 2006, originated in Higashimura. It was developed over a period of approximately 20 years from a seedling obtained in 1989 at the Okinawa Prefectural Agricultural Research Center by crossing “Cream Pine” and “McGregor ST-1.” The variety was named for its golden-colored flesh and barrel-like shape.

The most distinctive feature of Gold Barrel is its high sugar content. While the sugar content of typical pineapples ranges from 14 to 16 degrees, Gold Barrel has a much higher sugar content of 17 to 19 degrees. Furthermore, the fruit is so tender that even the core is edible, and it has less of the characteristic sharp tartness typical of pineapples. When you take a bite, it’s melt-in-your-mouth tender and juicy, and because it has very little fiber, it doesn’t leave a gritty texture in your mouth. With its refined sweetness and rich aroma, and weighing approximately 1.5 to 2 kg per fruit, it has gained attention as a premium pineapple for gift-giving.

Tadao Tamaki, the creator of “Gold Barrel”

Tadao Tamaki of Tamaki Farm—a pioneer in pineapple cultivation in Higashimura and an Honorary Agricultural Advisor for Okinawa Prefecture—played a pivotal role in the creation of this new variety. Starting with 11 frail seedlings he had received, Mr. Tamaki repeatedly selected and nurtured them, and through many years of effort and research, he cultivated “Gold Barrel” into a truly golden-hued fruit.

Among the “Gold Barrel” pineapples Mr. Tamaki grows himself, those that are particularly exceptional in terms of taste, color, size, and shape are named “TADAO GOLD.” Known as the highest-grade variety of “Gold Barrel,” they are selected from only a few percent of the total crop.

The Legacy of Pineapple Farming

Yoshiyuki and Kie Shinzato, who run “Shinzato Fruit Farm” in Higashimura, are the next generation of growers who learned the ins and outs of Gold Barrel cultivation from Mr. Tamaki, who has devoted over 50 years to pineapple farming.

Kie is Mr. Tamaki’s daughter, and she had watched him grow pineapples since she was a child. However, it wasn’t until she entered the workforce that she realized just how remarkable her father’s pineapples were. She says it was after she started working as a pastry chef in Naha City.

Nearly 20 years ago, the pineapples her workplace was sourcing turned out to be Gold Barrel varieties grown by her father. She heard rumors from people around her that “TADAO GOLD” was famous for its delicious taste, and that’s when she realized just how exceptional they were. Thinking, “This might not be a job anyone can do,” she began working side by side with Yoshiyuki—who was born and raised on a part-time mango farm in Nanjo City—to take on the challenge of growing Gold Barrel pineapples.

Gold Barrel, Grown on the Land of Higashimura

Higashi Village, home to Shinzato Orchard, is not only one of the prefecture’s leading pineapple-producing areas but is also known as “Yanbaru,” a region where rich natural landscapes—including mangrove forests—and unique ecosystems remain well-preserved. In the vast fields where patches of red soil peek through, pineapples that have grown to about waist height stand densely planted in neat rows.

Higashimura’s red soil and climate, ideal for pineapple cultivation

One reason pineapple cultivation thrives in Higashimura is the acidic, well-drained red clay soil that pineapples prefer most. Additionally, the terrain allows minerals from the sea to seep into the soil, and summer temperatures range from 30 to 35 degrees. These conditions produce pineapples with high sugar content.

Soil preparation that capitalizes on the advantages of this soil is a crucial factor in pineapple cultivation.

Soil preparation begins by using a power shovel to till the soil to a depth of about 1 meter. Since water is the pineapple’s arch-enemy, this process creates air pockets in the soil, improving drainage. The tilled soil is then left to rest for three months, exposed to natural rainfall to allow moisture and minerals to permeate the soil while incorporating air, helping it regain its vitality. This process also prevents problems such as stunted growth caused by continuous cropping.

And apparently, the most important aspect of soil preparation is weed control. “My father-in-law tells me most often not to let the weeds grow,” says Yoshiyuki. To prevent an infestation of scale insects, they don’t use machines for weeding—they pull them out almost entirely by hand. This labor-intensive and time-consuming approach to soil preparation ultimately contributes to the flavor of the pineapples.

From Planting to Growth to Harvest

Pineapple planting is generally divided into two main periods: spring (March and April) and summer (September and October). Spring planting is timed so that the roots can establish themselves before the rainy season begins in late May. Summer planting is scheduled while monitoring typhoon conditions to ensure the planted seedlings do not rot due to rain.

Once the fruit has grown to a certain size, each one is covered with a hat made of newspaper to protect it from sunburn, and then covered with netting to block strong ultraviolet rays, thereby preventing the skin from burning and spoiling. Additionally, since the large, heavy “Gold Barrel” variety can have its stems snapped by strong typhoon winds, pipes are installed to support the stems.

Gold Barrel pineapples, which are grown with great care in an environment optimized for the crop, are finally ready for harvest approximately three years after the seedlings are planted. Since pineapples generally do not continue to ripen after harvest, they are allowed to ripen on the plant and harvested at the peak of their flavor. As harvest time approaches, the ripeness of each fruit is checked daily, and ripe ones are harvested by hand.

Carrying Dreams in a Gold Barrel

Shinzato Orchard harvests approximately 9,000 pineapples annually. While standard pineapples can be harvested twice in four years, the Gold Barrel variety yields only once every three years. Despite being a difficult variety to cultivate—with limited yields and susceptibility to disease—the growers spare no effort, meticulously preparing the soil and waiting for the fruit to ripen on the tree before picking it at the peak of flavor.

That said, it is this meticulous work that produces the Gold Barrel—a pineapple that is tender right down to the core and boasts a rich, fragrant aroma. “My father-in-law conducts research every day and continues to incorporate new techniques even though he’s over 80. I’m young, but I still can’t keep up with him,” says Yoshiyuki humbly.

While absorbing techniques and knowledge from Mr. Tamaki, he is eager to expand production by gradually increasing the acreage of Gold Barrel—a variety that is difficult to grow and has unstable yields—with the goal of eventually achieving a stable harvest of 12,000 to 13,000 fruits.

Meanwhile, Kie is focused on establishing a shipping system. Gold Barrel, which is allowed to ripen on the tree, has a shelf life of just three days after harvest. The process of polishing each pineapple individually with a cloth and packing them by hand into boxes can take up to 22 hours during peak harvest season. However, they hope to streamline this process by adopting new systems—such as machinery—so they can devote even more time and effort to growing the pineapples.

The couple currently donates their harvested pineapples regularly to local elementary schools and children’s homes. This stems from their desire to change people’s “assumptions” about pineapples: “When we were children, we thought it was normal for pineapples to be a little sour. However, depending on the variety and cultivation methods, they can become this sweet. We want children to know that pineapples are sweet and delicious, and we want to change what people take for granted about pineapples.”

Just as Mr. Tamaki nurtured golden fruits from 11 frail seedlings, that passion and expertise are now being passed on to the next generation. The Gold Barrel pineapples, rooted in the red soil of Higashi Village, will continue to bear sweet fruit, carrying the dreams of these two men.

The post The Challenge of the Second-Generation Owner of “Shinzato Orchard,” Aiming for the Top of the Gold Barrel / Higashi Village, Kunigami District, Okinawa Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Nestled in the mountains of Hita City, Oita Prefecture, “Houkouen” has been growing pears for 70 years. Tomomi Nakama, the third-generation owner, is dedicated to preserving the sweet, juicy pears nurtured by the land’s vitality and her unwavering commitment to “sharing delicious food with her customers.”

“Hita Pears Throughout the Seasons”

In the northwestern part of Oita Prefecture, in the inland region of Kyushu bordering Fukuoka and Kumamoto, lies a town called Hita. Nestled deep within a basin surrounded by mountains, this area has long been blessed with abundant water and, due to its proximity to the headwaters of the Chikugo River, has been called the “Land of Water.” During the Edo period, it flourished as a territory directly administered by the shogunate, and even today, its historic streetscape and hot springs—which retain traces of that era—welcome visitors. In Hita, with its abundant natural beauty, there is a popular local product: pears.

Tomomi Nakama of “Houkouen” is the third-generation pear grower who has devoted his heart and soul to pear cultivation in this region. Driven by the single-minded desire to “share with customers the delicious fruits I enjoy eating myself,” his pear farming has attracted many repeat customers and garnered such strong support that he receives inquiries every year asking, “Are they ready yet?”

Houkouen began growing pears about 70 years ago, during the generation of Mr. Nakama’s grandfather. Mr. Nakama himself began working at his family’s farm immediately after graduating from college. “I always thought I would take over the business,” she explains. Having become involved in the family business at a young age, Mr. Nakama continues to dedicate herself to the unique art of pear cultivation specific to this region.

A region where various natural conditions make it ideal for pear cultivation

When it comes to pear-producing regions, Tottori and Chiba Prefectures are the first to come to mind. In terms of production volume by prefecture, Oita Prefecture ranks around 10th. However, in Hita City, a variety of pear cultivars are grown that can be shipped from late July through around December, and the local JA Pear Committee promotes this rich selection under the slogan “Hita Pears All Year Round.”

So why is it possible to grow such high-quality pears in Hita City? When I asked Mr. Nakama, he replied, “It’s the power of the land.”

Located in a basin, Hita City experiences significant temperature differences between morning and evening, with nighttime temperatures sometimes dropping to 12–13 degrees during the summer. The lower the nighttime temperature, the more sugar the fruit can store from what it has accumulated during the day. This is why areas with large temperature fluctuations are said to be ideal for fruit production. Then there’s the water. Hita City, blessed with both high-quality water and abundant water supply—so much so that it’s known as the “Land Polished by Water”—provides the perfect conditions for pear cultivation. And then there’s the soil. This region’s red clay soil, rather than sandy soil, has the ability to retain nutrients, serving as the foundation for a bountiful harvest. Temperature differences, water, and soil.

It is the convergence of these three elements that gives rise to Hita’s pears.

At Houkouen, we currently cultivate six main varieties for shipment: starting with Kosui, followed by Houzui, Shinko, Akizuki, Atago, and Okusan-kichi. In particular, the late-ripening Okusan-kichi was once cultivated throughout Japan, but because it is labor-intensive to grow, the number of producers has plummeted. As a result, it now accounts for less than 1% of total pear production, with the vast majority reportedly grown in Oita Prefecture. While Okusan-kichi has a moderate acidity, consumers have recently shown a preference for sweeter varieties with less acidity, and these changing times are reflected in the selection of varieties.

While trying to figure out what the pear tree wants,

“I look at the tree and try to determine whether it needs water or nutrients—similar to the supplements people take,” says Nakama. “I consider what to do while assessing these factors.”

Pear saplings begin to bear fruit little by little around their third year after planting. They bloom around the same time as cherry blossoms, and the sight of seven or eight blossoms opening from a single branch resembles the way cherry blossoms bloom. Harvests peak when the trees are about 20 years old, and although yields decline gradually thereafter, some trees are said to continue bearing fruit even after they are over 100 years old. To ensure the fruit grows large and firm, and to transform the sugars produced through photosynthesis into sweetness, there is no alternative but to constantly watch over the orchard and the trees, applying meticulous care at every step. It is this accumulation of time and effort that yields sweet pears.

The key is soil preparation

At Houkouen, we use organic fertilizers such as compost mixed with cow manure and sawdust, as well as fish meal and rapeseed oil cake. Continued use of these materials softens the soil, improves drainage, and promotes the healthy growth of microorganisms. While chicken manure compost is another option, we have chosen cow manure compost because it has a long-term effect on the soil, whereas chicken manure compost, though it provides immediate results, does not last as long.

Furthermore, instead of using herbicides on weeds growing in the fields, they are cut with machinery. This allows earthworms to thrive in the soil, and their castings provide organic matter that serves as food for microorganisms. Additionally, as the earthworms move around, they aerate the soil, promoting the decomposition of organic matter by microorganisms. In this way, living, fertile soil is created.

However, Mr. Nakama notes that even in this region, where various conditions for pear cultivation are ideal, there are still challenges that must be addressed.

Challenges Facing Pear Cultivation

When asked about the challenges they face in pear cultivation, three answers emerged: climate change, tree diseases, and labor shortages.

As for the climate, temperatures have been high in recent springs, causing pear trees to bloom earlier. The flowering period is the most delicate stage; if a late frost occurs at this time, the pistils turn black and wither, potentially preventing fruit from setting. Excessively hot summers, prolonged periods of rain, and then sudden, heavy downpours in a short span of time. The weather in recent years has become increasingly unpredictable, further exacerbating conditions that weaken the trees. Mr. Nakama confides that while he adapts flexibly by monitoring the weather to adjust fertilization and water management, it remains quite challenging.

Tree diseases are another source of concern. As a result of repeated breeding efforts to improve flavor, there are now more varieties that are susceptible to disease. He considered switching to organic farming, in line with global trends in agriculture, but had a bitter experience when he tried it with pears: disease spread rampantly, and the effects lingered for several years. He says he struggles to strike the right balance between using pesticides and ensuring safety.

And then there’s the labor shortage. Houkouen is no exception. Typically, pears grow about 180 cm above the ground. This means workers must keep their faces and hands raised the entire time they’re working, placing a considerable strain on their necks, shoulders, and lower backs. In the past, they could rely on local seniors and housewives who would come during peak season, but now there’s no one left to turn to. Currently, they’re managing by relying on a few local residents and bringing in workers from outside the prefecture only during peak season.

Changing the way trees are pruned to reduce the burden on workers

Faced with a workforce largely made up of inexperienced workers, Mr. Nakama changed the way the trees were pruned. “Normally, trees grow upward. However, if you bend the branches down at an angle of about 30 to 40 degrees, the fruit will grow at a slightly lower height than before. When the fruit grows at a height of about 90 cm, it makes the work easier even for inexperienced workers.”

He is shifting toward a cultivation method that allows anyone to harvest the fruit. While keeping costs down, he is also considering the future introduction of harvesting robots. Mr. Nakama is steadily exploring a path that will allow the operation to function even without human labor.

As demand for fruit continues to decline year after year,

Along with labor shortages, Mr. Nakama is facing a decline in demand for the fruit itself. For pears in particular, the fact that they must be peeled before eating is a major hurdle. While many people say they “like pears,” that doesn’t necessarily translate into purchases. He has noticed that younger generations, in particular, simply aren’t buying them; in fact, whether in stores or through online sales, about 70 percent of buyers are in their 50s or older. While varieties like Shine Muscat—which can be eaten with the skin on and have no seeds—are gaining popularity, demand for fruits that require extra effort to prepare is declining, partly due to their status as luxury items. This is Mr. Nakama’s analysis.

As a solution to this problem, Mr. Nakama is working to broaden the appeal of pears.

To Convey the Charm of Pears

In addition to selling fresh pears, Houkouen also handcrafts processed products such as juice, jam, and dried fruit. Although they can’t produce large quantities, these items are very popular because they allow people to enjoy the delicious taste of pears year-round. “Making these processed products is kind of like a hobby,” Mr. Nakama says with a laugh, but behind those words lies a sincere desire to share the appeal of pears with as many people as possible.

Among these products, “pear vinegar” is particularly unique. As the name suggests, it is vinegar made from pears. It was born from a simple idea: “If wine can be turned into balsamic vinegar, why not pears?” These unusual products have garnered a good reputation, leading to increased media coverage of Houkouen. When exhibiting at events, she brings both fresh pears and processed products. Some people choose the juicy pears, while others reach for the processed items—each person discovers the pears in their own way. Nakama says that every time she sees this, she realizes that the appeal of pears is gradually spreading.

For the Future of Pear Cultivation

Although there are currently about 100 pear farms in Hita, that number continues to decline year by year. One reason for this is that the generation that experienced a period about 15 years ago—when prices hit rock bottom to the point where farmers could no longer make a living from market sales alone—is no longer passing the business down to their children. Mr. Nakama himself has a son, but he doesn’t feel strongly that his son must take over the farm. “When I’m old enough to retire, if there’s someone who wants to take over, I’ll hand it over to them”—that is his honest sentiment. That is precisely why he is steadily continuing his efforts to adapt his cultivation methods so that production and harvesting can be managed even without ample labor or experience.

No one knows at this point what the future holds for pears. Nevertheless, with an eye on the future, Mr. Nakama continues to tend to his pears day after day. “As long as people say they’ll miss pears if they become scarce, I’ll keep going. I can’t let down the expectations of customers who buy them because they’re ‘delicious,’ so I’ll never cut corners.”

“Hita pears, all year round.” A key part of this tradition is the presence of farmers like Mr. Nakama, who pour their hearts into pear cultivation. For the sake of those eagerly awaiting this year’s pears, Mr. Nakama stands in his Hita orchard once again today.

The post “I want to broaden our reach and share the appeal of pears with as many people as possible.” Tomomi Nakama of “Houkouen” / Hita City, Oita Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Kochi Prefecture is a tropical region rich in natural beauty, nurtured by the bounty of the Pacific Ocean and its mountains and rivers. Among its areas, Haruno-cho in Kochi City is a warm region facing the Pacific Ocean. It features breezes blowing in from the sea, abundant sunshine, and a landscape where plains and hills intertwine. Drawing on these natural blessings, Farm Vegeco is paving the way for the future of agriculture.

Growing Vegetables in Greenhouses in Winter: A Reversal in Agriculture

About 90 percent of Kochi Prefecture’s land area is mountainous, and rivers flowing from the Shikoku Mountains rush down as rapids before emptying into the sea. As a result, sediment does not accumulate over wide areas, and the terrain is characterized by a lack of large-scale plains. So, how can this limited flat land be put to good use? Greenhouse horticulture—which yields high crop yields even on small plots—has developed as a solution to this challenge. Open-field cultivation takes place in the mountainous areas during the summer, while greenhouse cultivation occurs in the plains during the winter. By skillfully adapting to the seasons and the terrain, a unique agricultural system specific to this region has taken shape.

The cucumbers grown by Nagasaki Asahi at Farm Vegeco are transplanted in early October, and harvesting continues daily from mid-November through June. This is a reverse approach: growing in winter crops that typically bear fruit in summer when grown in open fields. The cucumbers, having endured the cold, lose their grassy bitterness and become sweeter. Cucumbers grown in winter greenhouses possess a quiet yet robust flavor distinct from their summer counterparts.

However, in cold regions, the high cost of heating makes it difficult to expand winter cucumber cultivation on a large scale. In this regard, the Pacific coast—with its warm climate and abundant sunshine—is an ideal region for growing winter crops. Among these areas, Kochi Prefecture ranks among the top in the nation for cucumber production, hovering around 6th or 7th place in recent years. It maintains a stable position as a major production center.

Prepare the soil, observe the leaves, and grow the fruit straight

Everything hinges on the three-month summer off-season for Farm Vegeco’s cucumbers. The Nagasaki family, who are also rice farmers, incorporate large amounts of rice husks and rice bran—byproducts of rice cultivation—into the soil and allow them to ferment. This soil preparation is the reason why their winter cucumbers are surprisingly sweet. Just as nuka-zuke pickles become sweet, soil enriched with rice bran brings out the cucumbers’ natural sweetness.

The Vitality of Greenery Thriving in the Greenhouse

Inside the greenhouse, farmers carefully identify the vines—which resemble a “body” and “limbs” extending from a single cucumber plant—and adjust the number of leaves to control the amount of photosynthesis. Each leaf plays a role in nurturing the nearby fruit, so farmers must be careful not to remove too many or leave too many.

In Japanese markets, “straight cucumbers” are in demand. If a cucumber touches a leaf, it bends; if it touches the ground, it turns yellow. Farmers watch over the growth of each individual cucumber, sometimes thinning the fruit and sometimes shaping it by hand to produce “Grade A” produce. “Grade A” refers to standard products that meet specifications for shape, color, and size, with few blemishes or bends. Of course, the taste remains the same even if they’re bent. Nevertheless, the reality is that market standards dictate farmers’ incomes.

Inside the greenhouse, the cucumber vines stretch out thinly as if searching for air, their tips—which have yet to touch anything—gently swaying in midair. It is a quiet movement, almost like hesitation, before they reach out for support.

Within that subtle hint of movement lies the plant’s unwavering will, striving to choose the path its life will take from here on.

A Farm That Has Been in Operation for 50 Years and the Legacy Left by My Family

The history of Farm Vegeco dates back more than 50 years. My father, who had been working at a travel agency, was adopted into a farming family that had been growing melons and tomatoes since my grandmother’s generation, and he took over the farm. He had no prior experience in farming. Nevertheless, with his artisan’s spirit, he engaged with the soil, immersed himself in every task, and honed his skills.

By his side was my mother, who had also worked at the same travel agency. My mother, who possessed the ability to forge connections between people and nature, established the Farm Vegeco brand under the philosophy of “Vegetable Communication & Collaboration.” Valuing dialogue with chefs, she grew not only cucumbers but also herbs and a diverse range of vegetables, continually responding to the needs of culinary professionals. Furthermore, by personally visiting supermarkets in Tokyo and actively participating in product competitions, she quietly yet steadily spread the name of Farm Vegeco among the general public.

To protect the farm his parents had built and pass it on to the next generation, Mr. Nagasaki chose to work the fields himself after a stint as a salaryman in Tokyo. However, in May 2025, his mother passed away due to illness. It was his fourth year back at the farm. Though the time he spent learning directly from her was brief, the spirit she instilled in him—farming to bring joy to people’s faces—remains unchanged and continues to breathe life into the very heart of this farm.

The Reality Facing Farmers Caught Between the Market and Direct Sales

Currently, 70% of Farm Vegeco’s produce is shipped to markets, while 30% is sold directly to consumers. The farm has stopped shipping through the JA. JA shipments involve high commission fees, which can sometimes cut farmers’ take-home pay in half. Pricing is also determined by the JA, making it difficult for farmers to proactively choose their customers. On the other hand, there are significant advantages to entrusting collection, sorting, and sales to the JA, as this ensures stable sales channels.

The appeal of shipping to the market lies in the low commission—around 10 percent—which increases the farmers’ take-home pay. However, this requires farmers to handle all sorting, packing, and shipping themselves, and they are responsible for maintaining consistent quality and building trust. Even so, their love and pride in the cucumbers they grow led them to choose the path of building their own brand.

The unit price of cucumbers is determined by market rates, and farmers have no say in setting the price. Even Grade A cucumbers fetch only about 30 yen per cucumber. It’s a harsh world where non-standard cucumbers sell for just 50 yen per kilogram. Rebuilding a greenhouse costs between 30 million and 40 million yen. Even repairs alone cost millions of yen every year. This is why the number of young farmers isn’t increasing.

Even so, Mr. Nagasaki says, “Farming is fun.”

“I was fortunate to have a foundation because I took over my parents’ farm. But starting from scratch presents a high barrier to entry. If the government had a system to lease unused greenhouses to young people, the farming population would surely grow,” he says.

Increasing direct sales and building connections with chefs and supermarkets that buy at fair prices—that is the path to survival for small-scale farmers. In fact, since winning the Grand Prize at the Vegetable Sommelier Summit in 2013, Farm Vegeco’s profile has risen, and chefs from Tokyo restaurants and international hotels have begun visiting Kochi in search of the farm’s cucumbers. Some overseas chefs even seek out tiny cucumbers still bearing their blossoms. The creativity of these chefs is bringing new perspectives to the farmers.

A “Flavor” We Want to Preserve for the Future: The Aspirations of a Young Farmer

When you take a bite of a cucumber from Farm Vegeco, juice bursts out immediately after harvest, filling your mouth with freshness. What’s more, that freshness is slow to fade, even after several days. Growing slowly in winter tightens the cells, strengthening the fruit’s ability to retain moisture.
Furthermore, the fruits that have endured the winter cold have little of that grassy taste and are surprisingly sweet.

Mr. Nagasaki says, “Even after my father is gone, the last thing I want to hear is that the taste has changed.” . He has no intention of expanding the number of greenhouses. Rather than chasing scale, he prioritizes preserving flavor. And he aims to connect with people who truly appreciate their produce and are willing to pay a fair price for it. That is the future vision for Farm Vegeco.

A single cucumber grown during the winter in Kochi. Behind it lies a family’s history, the local climate, the memory of the soil, and the bonds between people. Inside the quiet greenhouse, even today, a small vine striving to grow straight is reaching out, searching for support.

The post Carrying our family’s hopes into the future. With love from “Farm Vegeco” / Kochi City, Kochi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

“I don’t want to show my children a field where not even insects appear, so I don’t use pesticides,” says Hideyo Ohtake, representative of “Nikkei Farm,” with conviction. Having dedicated himself to agriculture for over 17 years, he is committed to growing vegetables using only organic fertilizers and no pesticides whatsoever. He now cultivates as many as 100 varieties of vegetables annually and is one of the leaders shaping the future of agriculture in Koriyama City, Fukushima Prefecture. He is also known for his “Legend Spinach,” which won the Grand Gold Award at the 2024 “Vegetable Sommelier Summit,” and has garnered attention from across the country. Together with his wife, Shiho—who manages sales at their farm’s direct-sales shop while he tends the fields—and his staff, he is dedicated to growing vegetables that bring joy to people.

I switched careers from hairdressing to farming. In terms of bringing joy to people, it was the same.

As it turns out, Ms. Otake’s first job after graduating from high school was as a hairdresser. “Back in high school, when a hairdresser helped me solve a problem with my hair, the words ‘Thank you’ just naturally came out of my mouth. I thought to myself that someday I’d like to make people happy as a hairdresser too, so I became an apprentice.”

Even back then, the Ohtake family owned a vegetable garden, but when his mother—who had been involved in farming—became too ill to tend the fields, he took over the farm. Driven by a sense of gratitude for having been able to pursue a career as a hairstylist, he eventually decided—after much deliberation—to leave the beauty industry and dedicate himself to farming.

“I never imagined I’d quit hairdressing to pursue farming, so I’m surprised even by myself. At first, I didn’t want to do it—I thought getting covered in mud was uncool. But when someone who ate our vegetables said, ‘That was delicious. Thank you,’ I realized that whether as a hairdresser or a farmer, the act of bringing joy to people is the same. That’s when the desire to make people happy through farming began to take root,” she recalls with a smile.

The creatures living in the soil are our vital partners, indispensable to agriculture.

Frustrated by people telling him that “pesticide-free farming is difficult,” Mr. Otake started by planting 1,000 corn stalks. However, the corn was completely wiped out by damage from palm civets, crows, and insects. Drawing on that experience, he devised strategies such as installing electric fences to keep out palm civets, and gradually increased his success rate. “When you cultivate crops while nurturing microorganisms, it seems that problems caused by continuous cropping—such as vegetable pathogens and stunted growth—don’t occur,” he says, confident in his unique organic farming method.

It has been about 17 years since he became a farmer. With his eager-to-learn and determined personality, Mr. Otake has taken on the challenge of growing a wide variety of vegetables. He began by simply learning about farming, gaining experience through conversations with veteran farmers and receiving guidance, and gradually developed his own style through trial and error.

What Mr. Ohtake values most in vegetable farming is preserving traditional farming methods without using pesticides. However, he is by no means opposed to pesticides. He says that his childhood memories of fun experiences have influenced this perspective.

“I’ve always loved insects; I used to catch rhinoceros beetles and dragonflies. It used to be normal to see frogs in the rice paddies and insects in the fields, but perhaps because people started using pesticides, they disappeared before I knew it. Through my hands-on experience in farming, I’ve learned that it’s the soil that grows the vegetables. By changing how we prepare the soil, the soil microorganisms also change, leading to healthy soil. “When the soil is healthy, the insect population naturally increases. So, in fact, I get hints on how to grow vegetables from the insects themselves. I’m proud to show my children the fields where the insects thrive,” he says with a cheerful smile. He explains that, for insects, the fields are like a restaurant. Rather than selfishly using pesticides, he minimizes interference with the soil and gradually increases the microbial population through green manure. He has built his current farming style on the philosophy that “I am privileged to grow vegetables using soil that is home to insects.”

Overcoming the hardships following the earthquake, they are preserving agriculture with passion

While studying agriculture, Mr. Otake has also pursued his own standards when it comes to distribution. After exploring ways to deliver pesticide-free vegetables and rare, diverse varieties to those who seek them, he decided against supplying markets or agricultural cooperatives (JA). Instead, he has maintained a unique business model of selling directly to contracted retailers and restaurants, while also offering seasonal vegetables at his farm’s own retail outlet.

While Nikkei Farm may appear to have followed a smooth path in agriculture, over the past 17 years it has weathered the reputational damage following the Great East Japan Earthquake and the COVID-19 pandemic, overcoming numerous difficult situations where they were forced to discard the vegetables they had grown.

“Before the earthquake, about 80 percent of our sales came from supplying restaurants in Tokyo through a broker specializing in the foodservice industry, while the local market accounted for about 20 percent. However, due to the reputational damage caused by the earthquake and the nuclear accident, that 80 percent vanished overnight,” he recalls. Since even residents of Fukushima Prefecture were shunning locally grown vegetables at the time, his wife, Shiho, says, “When I think back on those days, I still can’t hold back my tears.” For a while, their daily routine consisted of growing produce only to throw it away, which took a heavy toll on them both physically and mentally. The company was operating at a continuous loss and was barely viable, but they were supported by the reopening of local restaurants and have been taking small steps toward recovery ever since.

“It was truly painful and difficult for about 10 years. However, while many people were forced to give up farming after the disaster, we resolved that we must carry on the agricultural traditions of Fukushima Prefecture and Koriyama into the future,” he says, expressing his feelings for his hometown.

At our farm stand, we sell fresh, seasonal vegetables grown with organic fertilizer.

Tucked away in a quiet residential neighborhood in Otsuki-cho, Koriyama City, the Nikkei Farm direct sales shop carries a wide variety of vegetables—primarily their own, but also those from other producers who grow delicious produce. The small shop is lined with colorful vegetables and rare varieties rarely seen elsewhere, bringing smiles to visitors’ faces. Grown without pesticides and using organic fertilizers, the vegetables are packed with the bounty of nature, boasting rich flavors and aromas. During the summer, in addition to edamame, zucchini, and green beans, colorful cherry tomatoes, beets, and “Kyomanju” (eggplant) make their appearance. The round, adorable salad squash and freshly picked corn are so fresh they can be eaten raw.

“Although it’s just a verbal recommendation, I introduce customers to several recipes they can enjoy using the vegetables we sell,” says Shiho, who runs the farm stand, with a smile. “It’s fun to talk to them directly, and I’m happy to be able to convey the appeal of our vegetables.” She adds that many people visit the stand after tasting dishes made with Nikkei Farm’s vegetables at local restaurants and wanting to try cooking with them themselves.

It’s as sweet as fruit. Corn you can eat raw

Nikkei Farm, which cultivates as many as 100 varieties annually, operates on a “small quantities, wide variety” model; however, even among these, its flagship product—corn—accounts for shipments of as many as 26,000 ears. During the three-month summer peak season, the farm harvests the corn every day around 3:00 a.m. and ships it while it’s still fresh and just-picked. This is because corn accumulates starch (sugar) overnight, and it is at its sweetest in the morning. In addition, corn harvested early in the morning has a higher moisture content, making it easier to maintain freshness and helping to prevent quality deterioration caused by the daytime heat.

At Nikkei Farm, corn is grown for about 10 days longer than usual, which concentrates the sweetness and deepens the flavor. The white corn variety “Pure White” maintains a high sugar content of 22.5 degrees, while the yellow corn maintains 21.5 degrees.

“We harvest the corn by feeling the top of the cob to make sure the kernels are firm, checking the base, and judging by the dryness and color of the silks,” says Mr. Otake, holding a cob of Pure White. He explains that by taking measures such as cutting the stems and reducing the number of leaves to prevent the corn earworm—a well-known corn pest—pest damage has been dramatically reduced.

“I recommend eating white corn raw. You can enjoy its juiciness and fresh sweetness. For yellow corn, cooking it slightly brings out more sweetness,” he told us.

I want to move many people with the taste of vegetables.

“I still have so many dreams,” says Mr. Otake with a smile. One of those dreams—which has become his own farming philosophy—is to move people with the taste of his vegetables.

He hopes to become the kind of farmer where parents and children don’t view eating or serving vegetables as a chore, but rather—just as children ask for candy—think, “The vegetables over there are delicious,” or “I want to eat that corn, so please buy some for me.”

“I believe that if I can convey the fun and message of farming through childhood experiences, the fields will continue to be places where vegetables are grown for generations to come. It also makes me happy when people say they’d like to visit the fields again.”

Furthermore, he notes that the current situation—where consumers take cheap vegetables for granted—is certainly not what farmers want, adding, “It’s also important for people to understand the challenges farmers face and change their mindset.”

“I’ve overcome many difficulties, but looking back now, I’m glad I chose farming. If there’s something I can do for others, I’ll do my best,” says Mr. Otake. Shiho, sitting beside him, nods vigorously in agreement. To continue seeing those smiling faces that say, “That was delicious!” they will press forward on their unique path in agriculture, finding fulfillment in their work every day.

The post Hideyo Otake of “Nikkei Farm,” which pursues delicious, seasonal vegetables using farming methods that are gentle on people and the environment / Koriyama City, Fukushima Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Koganezaki Farm produces more than 30 varieties of vegetables—including leafy greens, potatoes for processing, and seed potatoes—on one of the largest plots of land in the country. Its client list includes major corporations, and in 2025, its cabbage became the first in Aomori Prefecture to receive JGAP certification. The farm continues to demonstrate the true potential of locally grown vegetables and support the next generation of farmers.

Agriculture that embodies the spirit of Aomori, making the most of its vast land and convenient location

Koganezaki Farm, which operates on 500 hectares of land (equivalent to 100 Tokyo Domes), supplies over 30 varieties of seed potatoes—as well as potatoes, cabbage, daikon radishes, and other crops—to customers across Japan. Its client base spans from Hokkaido to Okinawa and includes major companies such as Calbee and Koikeya, as the farm continues to cultivate crops that take full advantage of Aomori’s unique soil and climate.

Beyond its scale and quality, the farm boasts advantages unique to Aomori. It was these advantages that caught the attention of founder Kimio Sasaki and three other farmers. They aimed to establish a sustainable agricultural business by leveraging the climate, which resembles that of Hokkaido, and the convenience of the land.

Farmers earning salaries comparable to those of office workers

Mr. Sasaki founded the company in 1976, when he was in his twenties. Concerned about the instability of the weather and vegetable prices, he and four colleagues discussed the idea of “whether it was possible to run a farm with a stable income, like that of a salaried employee,” and established a corporate entity. They believed this would allow them to expand their operations and reduce costs, and that any profits generated would translate into salaries.

From the very beginning, they adopted land-intensive agriculture. Land-intensive agriculture is a farming method that utilizes vast tracts of land and incorporates large-scale machinery and smart farming to improve operational efficiency. It also aims to mitigate the effects of crop rotation problems—where continuous cultivation of the same crop in the same field leads to changes in the soil environment and poor growth—by rotating crops. Their goal was to create a large-scale farm modeled after those in Hokkaido. One reason they envisioned a scale similar to Hokkaido’s was the similarity in climate. Many potato varieties thrive in cool regions, and Aomori’s significant temperature difference between day and night is said to be ideal for producing high-quality potatoes.

Furthermore, Aomori’s greatest strength is the ability to distribute produce via land transport. Since it is crucial to deliver leafy vegetables as quickly as possible—even by a single day—this gives them an advantage over Hokkaido when dealing with clients in the Kanto region. They planned to leverage these climate and distribution strengths to establish large-scale farms unique to Aomori.

With the characteristic drive and speed of young entrepreneurs, Sasaki and his team quickly found a plot of land and immediately launched their corporate farming operation. The land they found was on the hills of Koganezaki Cape in Fukaura Town, facing the west coast. They spent their days clearing the land from morning to night while intensively studying cash flow management. Although the instability of farmers’ incomes has always been a challenge, they pressed forward with the goal of resolving this issue and fostering the next generation of young farmers.

From “Profitable Farming” to “Farming That Doesn’t Lose Money”

They cleared the land and grew a variety of vegetables—including potatoes, carrots, melons, and watermelons—which they took to market, but the income didn’t meet their expectations. Compounded by cold snaps and other setbacks, they found themselves in a situation where they could barely make ends meet. Faced with a critical decision, Mr. Sasaki and his team chose to stop shipping their produce to the market. Rather than being at the mercy of market prices, they decided to set their own prices and sell directly to consumers. This was about six years after they had started their business.

One of Japan’s highest-quality seed potatoes

Along with expanding their customer base, they also began producing high-quality seed potatoes. Seed potatoes are potatoes planted for propagation; initially, they had been producing potatoes for processing, but the quality of the seed potatoes they used was poor, and they reportedly couldn’t achieve satisfactory results. That’s when they decided to start growing their own seed potatoes from scratch. The quality of the seed potatoes is crucial for growing high-quality potatoes.

However, it is often said that “growing seed potatoes is even more difficult than growing potatoes,” as disease management is extremely strict, and preventing infection by viruses and bacteria is an absolute requirement. Furthermore, thorough quality control is essential, including selecting a cool location with a low risk of natural disasters and maintaining sufficient distance between different varieties to prevent cross-contamination. Although it was a challenge in a difficult field, they persisted through trial and error, driven by a desire to protect the quality of domestically grown potatoes.

Among their strengths, their vast land proved particularly valuable. It minimizes the risk of cross-contamination even when planting different varieties of seed potatoes and helps prevent crop rotation problems.

Those efforts gradually bore fruit, and today, Koganezaki Farm supplies seed potatoes to potato farmers across the country. Since there are very few farms that cultivate such a wide variety of seed potatoes, it may not be an exaggeration to say that they are supporting Japan’s potato production.

“Koganezaki Farm has become so well-established that some people now associate the name directly with potatoes,” says Masahiro Higashi, the current President and CEO. “However, we also need to understand the characteristics of each variety and have facilities capable of air-drying and cold storage.” He explains that they are continuing to build a system for stable supply by collaborating with corporate representatives and seeking their advice.

A Legacy for Future Generations

“Last year, our cabbage for processing obtained JGAP certification. I believe this will help build trust among both businesses and consumers,” says Kazunori Okura, Senior Managing Director. JGAP is a Japanese agricultural production process management certification system, an acronym for “Japan Good Agricultural Practice.” It is a set of standards designed to reduce risks in agriculture—such as pesticide management, foreign object contamination, and workplace accidents—and to ensure the stable production of safe and reliable agricultural products.

The cabbage the company primarily ships for cut vegetables is the “Okina” variety, which is also used in shredded cabbage commonly found in supermarkets. Its firm leaves retain volume even when finely chopped for dishes like coleslaw, offering a crisp texture and satisfying bite. It is reportedly also used in the gyoza served by nationwide chain restaurants.

“Soil preparation is crucial, but given the size of the fields, it takes a lot of time. With large fields of about 18 hectares each, we have to make numerous passes with the tractor, so I’m considering whether we can automate that process using AI or similar technologies,” says Mr. Okura. While there are cost considerations, he explains that precisely because of the large scale, he wants to actively adopt drones (delivered on May 7, 2026) and machinery to build systems suited to the times and improve the farming environment.

Furthermore, the vast expanse of land offers the advantage of allowing him to experiment with various crop varieties. Although the onions he tried growing last year did not turn out as well as he had hoped, Mr. Okura remains enthusiastic: “There’s always a reason for failure, and I believe that if we can solve it, we’ll succeed. Someday, this might even become a major production area.” It may be this attitude—one of learning from failure rather than fearing it—that has allowed Koganezaki Farm to grow to where it is today.

The Future of Agriculture, as Envisioned by Mr. Sasaki

In fact, Mr. Okura moved here from Ibaraki Prefecture and decided to join the company because he was drawn to Mr. Sasaki’s vision. “I used to work in sales for about 30 years. But I came here because I was attracted to Mr. Sasaki’s character and his passion.”

Mr. Sasaki’s long-standing dedication to securing the future of farming and his tireless efforts to build a bridge to the next generation seem to have touched the hearts of many people. Although Mr. Okura passed away shortly after joining the company, it is said that Mr. Sasaki entrusted him with his vision, hoping he would pass the baton on to the next generation.

“There may still be challenges facing agriculture, such as labor shortages and an aging population. Nevertheless, I want to contribute to the development of local agriculture to help support Japan’s food supply and highlight the importance of domestically grown vegetables.”

The dream of farming that Mr. Sasaki envisioned has been firmly passed down to the current generation. The creation of systems that allow those who support Japan’s food supply to continue their work looks set to expand even further in the future.

The post “Koganezaki Farm”: Looking Toward the Future of Farming and Aiming for Profitable Agriculture / Hirosaki City, Aomori Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Aomori Prefecture is known as Japan’s leading apple-producing region, accounting for approximately 60% of the nation’s total apple output. Within the prefecture, about 50 varieties are cultivated, primarily including “Fuji” apples, which offer a good balance of sweetness and tartness, and “Tsugaru” apples, which are juicy and tender.To maintain apple yields, pest and disease control measures and breed improvement are essential. The research for these efforts is conducted by the “Aomori Prefectural Industrial Technology Center Apple Research Institute” (hereinafter referred to as the Aomori Prefectural Industrial Technology Center Apple Research Institute), located in Kuroishi City, Aomori Prefecture. This facility has become indispensable to apple farmers in Aomori Prefecture.

A facility that supports and safeguards the quality of apples within the prefecture

It is said that apples originated in the region stretching from the Tianshan Mountains in China to the Caucasus region of Russia. From there, apples spread to Greece, Rome, Europe, and eventually to America. Around that time, the Meiji government in Japan imported saplings of various fruit trees from abroad and distributed them nationwide. At the time, apples were mainly imported from the United States, France, and the United Kingdom, and the saplings distributed to this prefecture were American apple varieties suitable for fresh consumption.This marked the beginning of apple cultivation in Aomori Prefecture, with a focus on apples for fresh consumption. In particular, the Tsugaru region—including Kuroishi City and Hirosaki City in the western part of the prefecture—is well-suited for apple cultivation due to its cool climate and significant temperature differences between day and night, which enhance the fruit’s sugar content.

However, as cultivation expanded from the 1890s onward, diseases and pests made harvesting difficult, leading to an increase in farmers abandoning their orchards. Consequently, to ensure effective pest and disease control, the “Heika (Apple) Experiment Station”—meaning “apples introduced from the West”—was established in 1931.In 2009, it was renamed the “Aomori Prefectural Industrial Technology Center Apple Research Institute,” and in addition to pest and disease control, it also conducts research on developing new varieties.

Sharing research results with farmers to ensure a consistent annual harvest  

The Aomori Prefectural Industrial Technology Center Apple Research Institute is located in the lush natural environment of Kuroishi City, Aomori Prefecture, and owns 24.8 hectares of farmland on its premises.“Here, we cultivate a wide variety of apples—including ‘Fuji,’ ‘Ohrin,’ and ‘Jonagold,’ which are in high demand among consumers and have high cultivation rates (in fact, we grow hundreds of varieties). We conduct year-round research on tree conditions, fruit set, pesticide application, and the timing of pest outbreaks, and by sharing these results with farmers, we help ensure stable yields,” says Director Noriaki Fukuda.

They quantify factors such as temperature fluctuations, precipitation, hours of sunshine, and snowfall, and conduct detailed research on leaf fall, budding, growth conditions, ripening progress, and quality. “Since the climate varies even within the prefecture, we conduct surveys for each region. It’s painstaking work, but it’s very important research,” he says. It is precisely because of this detailed data that they can accurately convey apple cultivation methods to farmers.

Apple cultivation involves pruning during the winter while considering sunlight exposure, and limiting the number of flowers in the spring when they bloom. This process ensures that each apple receives sufficient nutrients. Then, in the fall, leaves touching the fruit are removed, and the fruit is rotated—a process called “tama-mawashi”—to expose it evenly to sunlight, resulting in a uniform red color throughout. By carefully performing these maintenance tasks, they are able to achieve a consistent harvest every year.

Efforts to reduce pesticide use while combating pests

“It is said that pests and diseases are the biggest weakness of apples, making pesticide-free cultivation very difficult. Of course, we support farmers who wish to reduce pesticide use, but due to factors like global warming, we are now seeing insects and diseases that were previously unseen, so reducing pesticide use is not easy,” he explains the current situation.

He explains that the most troublesome pests include “spider mites,” which parasitize leaves and inhibit photosynthesis, and the “peach fruit moth,” which burrows into the fruit. Since damage from these pests renders the fruit unsellable, they are the farmers’ worst enemies. While pesticides and mating disruption are the primary control methods, Mr. Fukuda notes that a major current problem is the persistence of infestation sources due to the increasing number of neglected orchards—left unmanaged because of an aging population and a shortage of workers.

Continuing research on pesticides that can withstand diseases previously unseen

Research is also being conducted on disease control, not just pest control.In addition to measures against “black spot disease”—which causes mold growth, cracks, and deformities—he notes that due to global warming, diseases previously unseen in Aomori Prefecture are now emerging. These include “brown spot disease,” which causes premature leaf drop and weakened tree vigor; as well as “anthracnose” and “ring spot disease,” which rot the fruit—diseases that were once only found in warmer regions.

Since diseases can change depending on the climate and other factors, relying on the same measures all the time can lead to pesticides becoming ineffective. Therefore, it is necessary to continue researching which pesticides work against specific diseases and when and how often to spray them effectively—making this a never-ending battle.

Efforts to Address the Shortage of Successors

“We are undertaking various initiatives to prevent the number of neglected orchards from increasing,” explains the Apple Research Institute. To make it easier for new farmers to enter the industry, the institute has created an “Apple Pest and Disease Control Calendar” that clearly outlines pesticide application schedules and pest and disease control measures. This calendar has been well-received even by veteran farmers and has reportedly become an indispensable tool for apple growers.

Additionally, to help the general public feel more connected to apples and to encourage new entrants into the industry, the institute holds an annual “Apple Research Institute Open House.” To foster interest in both the local area and the fruit, the event features public tours of the farmland, exhibitions of research findings, and consultations on fruit tree cultivation. “We’d be delighted if even a few more people became interested in apple farming and felt inspired to try it themselves,” they say with hope.

Meeting standards for taste and cultivation methods, and taking on the challenge of breeding varieties for the next generation

There are many apple varieties, and currently, “Fuji” is the best-selling variety, followed by “Tsugaru,” “Jonagold,” and “Ohrin,” with these four varieties accounting for about 80% of the market. Driven by the desire to “create the next big hit apple,” a new variety called “Benihatsumi” was developed in recent years. It is characterized by a rich flavor and a tart aftertaste.

Developing a new variety involves comprehensively evaluating factors such as firmness, acidity balance, and juice content. Mr. Fukuda expresses his enthusiasm for “Benihatsumi,” which took many years to perfect, stating that he aims to increase the number of growers and expand consumption. The Apple Research Institute conducts a wide range of activities, including research on cultivation techniques and pests and diseases, as well as providing guidance to farmers.Apple research is often highly detailed, and the results that can be produced in a single year are limited. However, these research findings are indispensable information for apple farmers and serve as a foundation for the next generation. Currently, efforts are underway to develop new varieties that are resistant to climate change and disease, so anticipation is growing for what delicious apples will be born in the future.

The post The “Aomori Prefectural Industrial Technology Center Apple Research Institute,” which supports apple farmers in Aomori / Kuroishi City, Aomori Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Located in Iizaka-machi, Fukushima City, “Momiyama Orchard” produces cherries, peaches, and apples. Kazuhiro Momiyama, the fifth-generation owner of this long-established orchard—which has been in operation since the 1890s—continues to produce superior fruit through relentless curiosity and daily research, including a commitment to natural soil cultivation.His wife, Tomomi, runs a farm stand and café that sells fresh fruit and original processed goods from the orchard, promoting the appeal of Fukushima’s prized fruits. “Nothing makes us happier than hearing people say our peaches and apples are delicious,” the couple smiles, their hearts united in this shared passion.

An Orchard and Family Bonds Passed Down Since the Meiji Era

Fukushima City offers high-quality fruit throughout the four seasons: strawberries in spring, cherries in early summer, peaches in summer, pears and grapes in autumn, and apples in early winter. Located in a basin surrounded by the Azuma Mountain Range and the Abukuma Highlands, the area enjoys a blessed climate that allows for the cultivation of both cold-climate and warm-climate fruits. Through continuous breeding improvements and technological innovations, a wide variety of fruits thrive here.

Located along the so-called “Fruit Line,” a stretch lined with such orchards, is “Yotsuba no Clover FARMERS GARDEN,” the direct sales shop and café of Momiyama Orchard. The pure white building, blending gently into the idyllic landscape, is particularly striking.

Matsuyama Orchard, a long-established orchard with a history spanning over 100 years since the 1890s, is located in Iizaka Town, Fukushima City, where dozens of orchards are scattered. They cultivate cherries, peaches, and apples, and Kazuhiro, the fourth-generation owner and son of the founder, has even received the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award.“Since I grew up hearing my father repeatedly say, ‘Farming is great,’ I had no hesitation whatsoever about taking over the family business,” Kazuhiro says with a smile. After graduating from university, he spent a year training as an intern at the Fukushima Prefectural Agricultural Comprehensive Center’s Fruit Tree Research Institute, and took over the family business at the age of 23.

Premium fruit nurtured by the temperature fluctuations unique to the basin

Fukushima is widely recognized as the “Fruit Kingdom.” Fukushima peaches are characterized by their bright red color, the result of abundant sunlight, and their high sugar content. Due to the significant temperature difference between day and night, sugar accumulates well in the fruit, making it easy to grow peaches with a strong sweetness. While Fukushima ranks second in the nation for peach production, it is by far the top consumer of peaches nationwide. In fact, residents of Fukushima Prefecture consume more than seven times the national average.

In Fukushima City, a wide variety of peaches are grown from late June to late September, and at Momoyama Orchard, we cultivate over a dozen different varieties in succession.Starting with the early-ripening “Hatsuhime,” followed by “Gyosei,” “Akatsuki,” and “Madoka,” and ending with the late-ripening “Yuzora” and “Sakura Hakuto,” this relay of diverse peach cultivation delivers the delicious flavors of the season.

Fukushima’s signature peach, “Akatsuki”

In the past, while many prefectures gave up on cultivating “Akatsuki” because they couldn’t overcome a single flaw during trial cultivation, only Fukushima Prefecture persisted without giving up and successfully overcame that flaw. Today, it has become a nationally recognized variety that represents Fukushima peaches.

“Thanks to the perseverance of the people of Fukushima, it has grown to its current size, and ‘Akatsuki’ is now synonymous with Fukushima,” Kazuhiro says with a smile. With its vibrant color, juiciness, and superb balance of sweetness and acidity, “Akatsuki” is popular as a mid-summer gift and for other occasions. We aim to harvest it every year just before Obon (late July to early August).

Rich in Minerals: Naturally Derived Soil Management

Kazuhiro, who tends to the fruit with love alongside his father, Kazuhiro, and with the help of part-time workers, speaks calmly: “I firmly believe in never compromising on our work.” He also focuses on natural soil cultivation, spreading crushed oyster shells from the Sanriku region—rich in minerals—onto the soil to harness the power of microorganisms, creating an eco-friendly approach.

Spring work begins with “bud thinning,” which involves reducing the number of buds before they bloom, cutting the total down from 100% to about 30%. This is followed by “fruit thinning,” where unwanted fruit is removed while the fruit is still small. Fruit thinning—removing fruit while it is young—is an essential step for producing high-quality fruit. Furthermore, he places great importance on maintaining healthy trees through winter pruning.

Delivering the Season’s Freshest Flavors Through a Variety of Peaches

You may have seen fruit in orchards covered with bags (or “skirts”). These are placed by hand, one by one, to protect the fruit from “rain burn”—a condition where the fruit splits open when heavy rain falls suddenly after a prolonged period of dry weather that has left the soil overly dry. By the time the fruit begins to color, the bags (skirts) are removed to allow sunlight to reach the fruit and promote coloring.Since the fruit won’t turn red all over unless it receives even light, a light-reflecting sheet is placed underneath. “The parts covered by leaves are particularly slow to color, so if you cut the leaves in half occasionally, they’ll start to color in about two days,” he explained.

Peaches turn red starting from the tip, and each variety reaches peak ripeness in about 10 days to two weeks.

Apparently, the ones with a vivid red color are sweeter and tastier. By performing these tasks in sequence, the relay of cultivating multiple peach varieties is completed. One of the real pleasures is savoring and comparing the various peach varieties harvested in season.

“My personal recommendation is ‘Yuzora.’ Compared to other varieties, it’s difficult to grow because it experiences a lot of physiological drop—where the fruit falls off naturally—but the flesh is dense, juicy, and smooth, making it incredibly delicious,” says Kazuhiro. He also recommends it for those who prefer firmer peaches.

Growing Delicious Fruit and Passing Agriculture on to the Future

Kazuhiro’s current challenges include taking on new challenges in fruit tree cultivation with an eye toward the future, and addressing labor shortages caused by the aging workforce in the orchard. “Since determining the optimal harvest time requires extensive experience, I handle the harvesting myself, except when my father helps out.” He is acutely aware of the difficulties in implementing IoT technology in an orchard, where years of experience and skilled techniques are essential.

“I’m thinking of reducing the cultivation area slightly in the future so I can focus more on each individual tree,” he shared honestly. “At the same time, I have a strong desire to preserve this region as a fruit-growing area, and I’m torn because I don’t want to create abandoned land while others around me are retiring due to old age.”

Although abnormal weather patterns have persisted in recent years, Kazuhiro says, “Striving daily amidst the harshness of nature to produce delicious fruit is what makes fruit farming interesting and is the pride of a professional orchardist.” While devoting himself to research and producing better fruit, he also considers the development and sustainability of agriculture in Fukushima.

Turning Freshly Picked Fruit into Exquisite Sweets and Processed Goods

Driven by the desire to “share the delicious fruit Kazuhiro has grown with such love with as many people as possible,” his wife, Tomomi, opened “Yotsuba no Clover FARMERS GARDEN,” a farm stand and café, in November 2019. Located along the “Fruit Line”—a prefectural road lined with tourist orchards—it operates only during the fruit harvest season, yet attracts many visitors from both within and outside the prefecture every year.

“My parents also ran a fruit farm, but even though they worked from early morning until late at night, they never got to hear directly from the customers who bought their produce, so I always wanted to open a farm stand someday,” Tomomi says with a smile. At the farm stand that fulfilled her long-held dream, they sell seasonal cherries, peaches, and apples that Kazuhiro has carefully cultivated, as well as handmade processed goods like jams and juices that highlight the natural flavor of the fruit.In the attached café space, desserts made with generous amounts of freshly picked fruit are a big hit. The “Luxurious! Whole Morning-Picked Peach Parfait,” which is both adorable and visually striking, is also a huge hit. On sunny days, you can enjoy desserts and drinks on the terrace while admiring the views of the surrounding mountains.

We want to share the appeal of Fukushima’s fruit with children and younger generations

One of the unique advantages of a direct sales shop is the ability to sell “B-grade” items—such as fruit with minor blemishes or smaller-than-average pieces—directly to customers. “These items are well-received by our customers, and when they return, they often buy jams made from the same fruit as souvenirs,” says Tomomi. It has been six years since she opened the direct sales shop and café she had long dreamed of.“I feel joy in sharing Kazuhiro’s delicious peaches with so many people, and in passing on the appeal of Fukushima’s agriculture and peaches to my own children,” she says with a beaming smile. “It also makes me happy to see the younger generation taking an interest in Fukushima’s fruit and agriculture through the café,” adds Kazuhiro, his face also lighting up with a smile.

Drawing energy from customers’ comments like “That was delicious,” the Momiyama couple work hand in hand to promote the appeal of Fukushima’s fruit. They continue to protect the precious orchard inherited from their ancestors with pride.

The post Kazuhiro and Tomomi Momiyama of Momiyama Orchard, who carefully cultivate Fukushima’s prized peaches using natural soil-building methods / Fukushima City, Fukushima Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Located in the center of the Kofu Basin, Chuo City in Yamanashi Prefecture has long been a thriving agricultural region, thanks to its abundant sunshine and mineral-rich water. Here, Yoda Farm has been dedicated exclusively to growing tomatoes for nearly half a century. With the addition of his son-in-law, Takayuki Kunugi, six years ago, the farm continues to strive daily to share the deliciousness of its tomatoes.

The taste of the tomatoes my father-in-law grew

What led Mr. Kunugi to start farming at Yoda Farm was his meeting with his wife, the daughter of the farm’s manager, Katsumi Yoda. When he visited to formally introduce himself before their marriage, he tasted the tomatoes grown by his father-in-law, Katsumi, and was deeply impressed by their deliciousness. However, Katsumi’s remark that “tomato farming ends when your physical strength runs out” made him keenly aware of the reality facing the aging agricultural industry. “I can’t let such delicious tomatoes disappear,” Kunugi resolved. He decided to resign from the agricultural cooperative where he had worked for 13 years and began farming to become the farm’s successor.

Dedicated to tomatoes, with a commitment to quality

For 60 years, Yoda Farm has specialized exclusively in growing “Momotaro Tomatoes.” These large tomatoes are characterized by their perfect balance of sweetness and acidity. While varieties like “fruit tomatoes” with intense sweetness are currently in vogue, Yoda Farm has consistently pursued the cultivation of tomatoes that offer “more than just sweetness.” Yoda Farm’s tomatoes are distinguished by their rich flavor, bursting juiciness, thin skin, and the perfect balance between the flesh and the gelatinous pulp—every detail is meticulously crafted.

Their approach to tomato cultivation—which prioritizes “quality” over mass production—reveals ingenuity cultivated over many years. While a single plant typically yields about 70 tomatoes, they limit the harvest to half that amount, creating tomatoes with a rich flavor that concentrates the umami and nutrients of two tomatoes into a single fruit. Furthermore, to grow tomatoes in conditions as close to nature as possible, they exercise extreme caution in pesticide use and actively work to create an environment that does not hinder the activity of the bumblebees responsible for pollination. Behind this approach of growing a limited selection of tomato varieties lies a commitment to “maximizing the quality of our produce by fully leveraging the experience we’ve accumulated, rather than spreading our cultivation resources across various varieties.” And this philosophy has been passed down from Katsumi to Kunugi, spanning two generations.

What do tomatoes grown using hydroponics taste like?

Yoda Farm, which has been in the family since Katsumi’s predecessor’s time, originally practiced soil cultivation, growing crops directly in the ground. However, this method has the drawback of being highly susceptible to bacteria and pests in the soil, requiring significant costs for disinfection and pesticides as a countermeasure. To produce tastier and safer tomatoes, Katsumi decided to try hydroponics, which was not yet widely adopted in Japan at the time. This method involves circulating a nutrient solution—a mixture of water and dissolved fertilizers—to the plant roots, and its major advantage is the ability to minimize the use of pesticides. However, when he first started hydroponics, there was a strong negative perception that “while the plants grow large when watered, they lack flavor.” Unlike soil, the medium cannot be allowed to dry out, so care must be taken not to overwater; however, by deliberately restricting watering during periods of intense sunlight to induce stress, he brings out the tomatoes’ natural sweetness. Inside the two plastic greenhouses, it gets quite hot in the summer. However, by continuing to let in sunlight without using air conditioning to promote photosynthesis, they produce tomatoes with a sugar content of 5 to 6 degrees Brix—tomatoes that are exceptionally sweet.

“We Want to Deliver Delicious Tomatoes”: Crowdfunding Campaign Launches

“Is there a way to share the deliciousness of these tomatoes, which my father-in-law has grown with such care, with more people?” To further expand his business channels, Mr. Kunugi set up a stall at the Aoyama Farmers’ Market in Tokyo—a venue where farmers from across the country gather—and began selling his produce directly to customers. Although the market attracts many food connoisseurs seeking fresh, delicious produce, he had only about 30 seconds to interact with each customer. “I’m confident in the quality of my tomatoes, and I generate decent sales, but I couldn’t convey the ‘passion’ behind them,” says Kunugi. Was there no way to convey the dedication poured into production? It was under these circumstances that he launched a project on the crowdfunding service “Makuake.”

Makuake is a system where creators present the passion and dedication behind their products, and people who want to support those products or services contribute funds. Yoda Farm’s project began with its first campaign in August 2019, and by the ninth campaign, the total number of supporters had exceeded 3,000, with total funding reaching approximately 24 million yen. For their processed food project on Makuake, they focused on creating “Rare Dry Tomatoes,” which are lightly dried to concentrate their umami while retaining a fresh, juicy flavor in perfect balance. They also launched a variety of other creative products, including “Tomato ‘Mi’”—a new category designed to be used as a versatile seasoning, sauce, or dressing—and “Tomato Koji Curry,” made without water. He developed the products with the help of those around him, refining them through trial and error based on advice from a friend who is a culinary researcher, and even entrusting the packaging design to a high school classmate. Among the processed food project’s offerings, “Tomato Ketchup,” “Tomato Salt Koji,” and “Barbecue Sauce”—which garnered particularly strong support—have grown into popular bestsellers on the Yoda Farm website. Recently, Kunugi happily notes that he often receives casual messages of encouragement from supporters—ranging from comments like “This is delicious” to “How are you doing?”—and feels that his relationship with existing customers has grown stronger since the success of the Makuake project.

Creating products that bring out the natural flavor of tomatoes

Another reason Mr. Kunugi decided to take on the challenge of developing new processed products was the problem of food waste, which was occurring on a massive scale. Of the approximately 10% of the annual production—amounting to 5 tons—that consisted of irregularly shaped produce, the items that could not be sold in the market were, with a heavy heart, turned into fertilizer for the fields. Even though their shape may be imperfect, their flavor potential is still very high. Precisely because he is confident in the quality, he uses absolutely no additives or other unnecessary ingredients during processing, instead devising ways to bring out the tomato’s natural flavor. In 2020, the first collaboration with a company that shared Mr. Kunugi’s passion for reducing food waste was realized. Among the products, the one that garnered the most attention was “Tomato Shio-Koji,” developed in partnership with Yamanashi Meijo—the brewery behind the sake brand “Shichiken”—which combines the brewery’s shio-koji with tomatoes. By blending it with shio-koji in an exquisite ratio, the product highlights the tomato’s natural flavor and has been well-received by supporters and many other users. Another product, “Melt-in-Your-Mouth Tomato Ketchup,” uses not only the koji used in brewing Shichiken but also wine vinegar from Asaya Foods, another local company. By allowing “non-standard” tomatoes to ripen fully and using the equivalent of about 10 tomatoes per bottle, the ketchup boasts a truly outstanding tomato flavor. While working on various collaborative products, the team reportedly always prioritizes their commitment to “making the tomato the star.”

That said, he admits that in his eagerness to come up with novel products, he often received candid feedback that his creations were “too gimmicky.” While innovation is necessary, striking a balance that truly highlights the quality of Yoda Farm’s time-honored tomatoes is essential. Looking back on that period, Mr. Kunugi reflects that he learned a great deal from the product development process.

Amid the hardships faced by farmers

Given the current global climate, Japan faces significant challenges, including a decline in production motivation due to soaring material and utility costs, as well as a dwindling number of farmers resulting from an aging population. Mr. Kunugi witnessed firsthand at the market how these factors have led to a reality where the focus is not on the “quality” of agricultural products but on “quantity,” driven by the pursuit of greater efficiency. For Yoda Farm, which has limited both its crop varieties and production volume in order to maintain high quality, this situation could be described as a headwind. In this context, moving away from the general market—where producers have no control over pricing—and instead selling directly to consumers or through crowdfunding, where they could reflect the true value of their tomatoes in the price, was undoubtedly a highly rewarding initiative. Their crowdfunding efforts even caught the attention of supermarkets within the prefecture, leading to requests for Yoda Farm’s tomatoes. By the spring of 2023, they had succeeded in establishing their own sales channels, relying almost entirely on them rather than the general distribution system.

I want to create opportunities for people to appreciate good food

Mr. Kunugi says he wants to propose more experiential projects that allow him to connect directly with customers. For his most recent Makuake project, he devised an agricultural experience ticket titled “First-Generation Yoda Farm Farmer’s Rights” as a reward. In addition to a harvesting experience where participants can actually do farm work and taste freshly picked tomatoes, the rewards include product discounts and vegetable subscription plans. In addition, he plans to build a café and processing facility, with the goal of offering services where customers can have freshly harvested tomatoes cooked and served on the spot. This marks a shift from online interaction to a new phase where people actually visit the farm in person. Mr. Kunugi’s vision of “letting people experience the reality of farm life” is becoming increasingly tangible.

The value of tomatoes that only Yoda Farm can produce

When choosing tomatoes, consumers likely have a variety of reasons—from taste and cultivation methods to price. Yet, as mentioned earlier, the reason Yoda Farm’s tomatoes continue to be chosen is that they embody the expertise cultivated over half a century and a deep commitment to “creating delicious produce.” Katsumi-san reportedly even traveled overseas in the past to study tomato cultivation. By combining the accumulated experience and skills of such artisans with the influence of communicators like Kunugi-san—who takes on innovative initiatives and challenges like crowdfunding—they are proposing new value for tomatoes.

Issues such as distribution and the shortage of farmers are by no means limited to tomatoes. To address these challenges, Kunugi says he wants to create opportunities for people to connect with the thoughts and feelings of the growers behind the vegetables they eat every day. He wants to convey through his own efforts that safe and delicious products are created only through the hard work and involvement of many different people. He also hopes to show that sustainable agriculture can be built through a new approach that incorporates flexible thinking, without being bound by traditional mass-production and distribution models.

As the value of agricultural products is reevaluated, farmers will prosper, and even higher-quality vegetables will be produced. A future awaits us where this leads to a virtuous cycle of increased domestic food self-sufficiency and a growing number of people entering the farming industry.

The post “Half a Century of Dedicated Cultivation”: A Tomato Farmer’s New Challenge—“Yoda Farm”—/Chuo City, Yamanashi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The “NPO Citrus Sommelier Ehime” was founded with the mission of “bringing Ehime’s citrus fruits into subculture.” In 2020, a group of young citrus farmers led by Shinji Ninomiya, the organization’s chairman, launched the “Citrus Sommelier Licensing System” based on the idea that “it would be interesting to have citrus sommeliers, just like there are wine and vegetable sommeliers.” Since then, this system has served as a catalyst, drawing more and more people into the world of citrus—a world that captivates the more you learn about it.

Why Ehime Prefecture Is Truly the Citrus Capital 

Ehime Prefecture is known as the “Citrus Kingdom,” boasting the highest citrus harvest volume and the widest variety of citrus fruits in Japan—so much so that citrus is the first thing that comes to mind when people think of the prefecture. With unique varieties such as Benimadonna, Kanpei, and Beniprincess, and thanks to a succession of harvests throughout the year, citrus fruits are available in the market nearly year-round, which is why the prefecture is called the Citrus Kingdom.

Citrus cultivation takes place throughout the prefecture, with particularly high production volumes along the entire coastline. Furthermore, Uwajima City, located in the Nanyo region, is the center of citrus cultivation and is also known as the birthplace of mandarin orange cultivation in Ehime Prefecture, where the cultivation of Satsuma mandarins first began. The terraced fields spreading across the steep slopes of the rias coastline are a defining feature of Uwajima City’s landscape.

The Citrus Sommelier Certification Program from Uwajima, a Major Citrus-Producing Region

In Uwajima City, a region renowned for citrus cultivation, Shinji Ninomiya launched the “Citrus Sommelier Licensing System” while running his own citrus farm. Born and raised in Uwajima, Ninomiya comes from a family of citrus farmers dating back to his grandfather’s generation; however, he had no intention of taking over the family business and was working in the apparel industry in Kyoto. However, when his grandfather passed away in his mid-20s, it prompted him to seriously consider taking over the family business. “From the late 1990s to the early 2000s, around the time I was deciding whether to take over the family business, the citrus industry was in a slump, weighed down by the economic downturn. ‘A few years had passed since I took over the family business, and just as I was starting to feel comfortable with farming, I was talking with local farmers of my generation about what interesting things we could do to revitalize the citrus industry and the region. At that time, we got excited about the idea of, “Wouldn’t it be interesting if there were citrus sommeliers, just like there are for wine or vegetables?” That moment became the catalyst for launching the Citrus Sommelier Licensing System,’ says Ninomiya. From there, centered around local citrus farmers, professionals from various fields and citrus enthusiasts who shared our vision came together to establish the NPO Citrus Sommelier Ehime, with the aim of conveying the deliciousness and joy of citrus. They launched the Citrus Sommelier Licensing System.

From a mere luxury item to a subculture

“Citrus fruits come in many varieties, each with its own unique character,” says Ninomiya. “From their beautiful colors and charming shapes to their flavors and aromas, the sound they make when peeled, and the personalities of the growers and the characteristics of their regions—the stories behind them are diverse. That’s where I sensed a subcultural element.” Precisely because these are the citrus fruits Ehime takes pride in, he wants people to be able to choose the ones that taste good and suit their preferences. “I want people to become interested in citrus by learning about the variety of flavors, and I want them to freely share their love for citrus.” These sentiments lie behind the creation of the “Citrus Sommelier Licensing System.”

We train professionals who can fully appreciate citrus fruits through intensive courses in theory and practical skills

The Citrus Sommelier License can be obtained by completing a two-day course and passing the exam. The course consists of a theoretical component, where participants learn the basics of citrus fruits using a textbook, and a practical component involving tasting. The textbook used for the theoretical portion is the “Citrus Textbook,” which Mr. Ninomiya and his team reportedly created through trial and error. It is the industry’s first citrus guidebook. Starting with a definition of “what a mikan is,” it covers everything from the ambiguous relationship between mikans and other citrus fruits, to explanations of citrus classification and varieties, how to eat them, farming methods, sales and distribution, and history. It is said to be enjoyable not only as a textbook but also as a read.

In the practical sessions, we use fresh fruit and juice to hone our ability to assess citrus quality, capture flavors through tasting, and develop the expressive skills needed to convey the appeal of citrus. While there are various methods for assessing quality, the stem provides a wealth of information. By examining color, shape, and size, we can determine sugar content, acidity, flavor intensity, and moisture levels. Sweetness can range from refreshing to thick and heavy, and aromas can vary from vibrant to mellow. Furthermore, participants learn to analyze and appreciate the elements that make up the flavor—such as the balance between acidity and sweetness and the aroma profile—moving beyond a simple judgment of “delicious” or “not delicious.” The ultimate goal is to discover ways to express the appeal of citrus fruits based on what they have learned.

“It would have been quicker if we had simply adapted the content of wine or vegetable sommelier courses, but because we wanted to incorporate what we ourselves felt as citrus farmers, it took time to finalize the course content. The response from those around us has been generally positive, and other producing regions are cooperating as well. Perhaps what was needed was a catalyst to revitalize the stagnant citrus industry,” he says.

To bring the appeal of citrus fruits closer to you

Alongside managing the Citrus Sommelier Licensing Program, Ninomiya and his team are also selling fresh fruit and pure juices through their online store. Their motivation stems from a desire to share the deliciousness and appeal of citrus in a more accessible way. Differences in varieties, and variations in flavor based on region and cultivation methods. As citrus sommeliers involved in production, the team members have spent their days working closely with citrus fruits, putting their unique characteristics and depth into words. The method they chose to share this knowledge with consumers is juice made by simply squeezing the fruit.

They use only citrus fruits grown by the citrus sommeliers themselves. Some juices highlight the distinct character of a single variety, while others blend multiple varieties to bring out a broader range of flavors. The diversity of citrus can be sensed through the way the sweetness develops, the lingering aftertaste, and the differences in aroma. By learning about the background—including differences in growing regions and producers—citrus becomes a deeper and more fascinating subject. Conveying the appeal of citrus through these experiences and increasing the number of people who enjoy it is also part of the citrus sommelier’s mission.

A citrus fruit that feels like my own child, yet is also a part of myself

While initiatives to promote citrus fruits are gaining momentum, the reality is that domestic demand for citrus continues to decline. Furthermore, the environment surrounding citrus cultivation is becoming increasingly challenging year by year. Factors include a loss of flavor intensity due to reduced temperature fluctuations caused by global warming, the need for large amounts of fertilizer as rising temperatures stimulate tree growth, and longer periods of disease and pest outbreaks. There are also challenges to maintaining the industry, such as labor shortages, the lack of successors, and the difficulty of mechanizing operations.

However, Mr. Ninomiya says there is still much that can be done. “Going forward, it’s important to adapt to these changes. This includes exploring cultivation methods that suppress growth and switching to varieties suited to the climate. When people say my citrus is delicious, it feels like they’re affirming me personally. I suppose I project myself onto the citrus. That’s why I want to do my very best with what I can do.” 

I hope that as many citrus sommeliers as possible will go out into the world and make their mark

The Citrus Sommelier Certification Course, held two to three times a year, is so popular that spots fill up in as little as five minutes after registration opens. Although there have been requests to hold the course in various regions, the plan is to continue at this pace for the time being. Incidentally, the pass rate is around 65–70%, and those who pass are awarded a certification. Since the Citrus Sommelier License program began in 2020, over 200 Citrus Sommeliers had been certified as of March 2026, and they are active throughout the country as “professionals who enjoy citrus.” Mr. Ninomiya feels that the community of citrus enthusiasts has been growing as a result of these ongoing efforts. His future goals are to further expand this community and pass on this initiative to the next generation. This unique initiative, characteristic of Ehime—the “Citrus Kingdom”—is steadily yielding results.

The post A citrus sommelier who elevates citrus from a food item to a form of entertainment. Shinji Ninomiya of the NPO Citrus Sommelier Ehime / Uwajima City, Ehime Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Ehime is one of Japan’s leading citrus-producing regions. Among its areas, the Maana district of Yawatahama City is known as the home of the premium Satsuma mandarin brand, “Maana Mandarin oranges.” How did they elevate Satsuma mandarins to the status of a premium citrus fruit? Behind this success lies the tireless effort of the “Maana Citrus Cooperative Sorting Committee,” which has worked to protect and nurture the region through the refinement of cultivation techniques and the enhancement of the brand image.

Overlooking the Uwa Sea, one of the prefecture’s leading mandarin orange-growing regions

The Maajiro and Anai districts of Yawatahama City overlook the Sada Peninsula in Ehime Prefecture, located at the westernmost tip of Shikoku. “Maana” is the collective name for these two districts. It’s a 25-minute drive from the city center. As you drive along the coastline, you’ll soon come upon steep terraced fields. While this may be a common sight for locals, the interplay between the sea and the terraced fields creates a beauty reminiscent of Japan’s traditional landscape.

Maana Mandarin oranges are grown on these terraced fields overlooking the Uwa Sea. Known as a premium variety among Satsuma mandarins, they are highly regarded, particularly in the Tokyo metropolitan area.

The Maana Citrus Cooperative Sorting Association (hereinafter referred to as “Maana Cooperative”), which handles everything from production to shipping, consists of 155 producers and JA staff, led by Cooperative Director Hiramasa Nakai. Most of the producers are natives of the Maana district. The community and the members of the Cooperative work together as one to produce high-quality Maana Mandarin oranges.

Branding Maana’s Satsuma mandarins as “Maana Mandarin oranges”

The history of mandarin orange cultivation in Maana began in 1900 (Meiji 33) with 300 saplings planted from Tachima in Yoshida-cho, Uwajima City—the birthplace of Satsuma mandarins in Ehime Prefecture.

With its rias coastline and terrain characterized by few flat areas and many slopes, this region was unsuitable for general farming. However, its warm climate, abundant sunshine, and good drainage made it an ideal environment for fruit cultivation. Our forebears cultivated the mountains, built terraced fields, and worked tirelessly to establish mandarin cultivation.

The region’s name became known nationwide in 1964 (Showa 39), when it became the first mandarin orange-producing area in Japan to receive the “Emperor’s Cup.” The Emperor’s Cup is the highest honor awarded to particularly outstanding agricultural, forestry, and fisheries producers from across the country. Taking this as an opportunity, the region committed to cultivating even higher-quality mandarin oranges and worked together to build the “Maana Mandarin oranges” brand, including registering it as a trademark.

A unique sweetness nurtured by “Five Suns”

“The Five Suns,” which harness the natural terrain and traditional wisdom. This is said to be the secret behind the sweet, juicy flavor of Maana Mandarin oranges.

In addition to the three “suns” that have remained unchanged since the Meiji era—sunlight, the glimmer of the sea, and the reflection off the stone walls of the terraced fields—recent years have seen the addition of sunlight reflected from white agricultural mulch sheets laid to regulate soil temperature, retain moisture, and prevent fertilizer runoff during heavy rains, as well as reflections from the paved paths within the orchard. By skillfully utilizing these five sources of light to promote photosynthesis, the sugar content of the fruit is maximized.

Strict standards and taste testing by artisans

Shipments of Maana Mandarin oranges begin in late October, with the peak season running from November to December.

The harvested mandarins are transported to a sorting facility, where they undergo a rigorous selection process. State-of-the-art cameras and light sensors are used to measure sugar content, acidity, size, and shape, and the fruit is then graded accordingly.

Finally, a taste test is conducted by experienced professionals. “I consider this the most important criterion,” says Mr. Nakai.

Only fruits that pass these strict selection criteria receive the red seal of approval as Maana Mandarin oranges. The thin skin enveloping the flesh melts in your mouth, and the juicy pulp bursts with flavor—so much so that they are often referred to as “mandarin juice you can drink.”

All-weather multi-drip cultivation that withstands climate change

The Maana District has long been renowned for producing high-quality mandarin oranges thanks to its naturally arid climate, but in recent years, due to a succession of abnormal weather patterns, there has been an increase in years where the flavor of the fruit varies significantly. In particular, when the area is hit by heavy rainfall in the fall, the fruit fails to reach its full sugar content, leading to a decline in quality.

To address this issue, growers have adopted “mulch drip cultivation” (commonly known as “Marudori cultivation”). This method involves laying white mulch over the orchards to block rainwater, ensuring high quality is maintained regardless of climate fluctuations.

A groundbreaking technology with the potential to enable sustainable agriculture

Mulch cultivation is a method in which white mulch is laid over the orchard, with drip tubes placed underneath to provide appropriate irrigation. By monitoring soil moisture levels with specialized sensors, this method increases fruit sugar content while minimizing stress on the trees, and simultaneously reduces acidity.

Stress cultivation is an essential method for increasing fruit sugar content, but conventional methods place a heavy burden on the trees, raising concerns about alternate bearing—where a poor harvest follows a bountiful one—and a shortened tree lifespan.

In contrast, Marudori cultivation is said to “produce high-sugar mandarins by applying mild stress to the fruit while reducing the burden on the trees.” In fact, while the average yield per farm in the Manana district is 4 tons, growers successfully practicing Marudori cultivation consistently record yields of 6 to 8 tons annually. There is also minimal variation in quality, ensuring stable production.

“We minimize fluctuations between good and bad years, ensuring production volume while pursuing flavor. Marudori cultivation makes that possible,” says Nakai, his voice brimming with confidence. He notes that the number of growers adopting Marudori cultivation is increasing year by year.

Expanding Our Product Line to Support the Brand

The Maana Cooperative is also actively developing processed products to deliver the delicious taste of Maana Mandarin oranges year-round.

“We use even fruit that meets shipping standards as raw material for processing, crafting it into the finest mandarin orange juice,” says Sadao Abe, the cooperative’s executive director.

Their flagship product is pure juice. While it is popular for its rich sweetness and aroma that capture the natural flavor of the fruit, behind the scenes lies a story of hard work: it took a long time to develop, and a special production method was created through countless rounds of trial and error.

“People often ask, ‘Why is Maana Mandarin oranges juice so dark in color?’” says Nakai. “This is actually the result of repeated trial and error during development, ensuring that when our product is displayed on store shelves, customers can tell the difference from other mandarin juices at a glance.” By blending juices extracted using different methods, they achieve a product with greater depth of flavor.

“Pachi Pachi” Craft Gin Made with Maana Mandarin Oranges

In recent years, craft gins produced by small-scale distilleries have become popular, and Manaa Cooperative has also taken on the challenge of commercializing a craft gin made with Maana Mandarin oranges. The result is “Hachi°Hachi° (Pachi-Pachi),” developed jointly by “Shunka Bussan,” the official distributor of Mana mandarins, and local sake brewery “Kondo Shuzo.”

It is made by distilling and blending eight botanicals related to the Maana Mandarin oranges—including the fruit, flowers, and new shoots, as well as the fruits of the Japanese holly used in windbreak hedges—separately by ingredient.

The origin of the unique name “Hachi°Hachi° (Pachi Pachi)” comes from the sound made when harvesting mandarins.

In the Maana district, fruit is picked twice to avoid damaging it with scissors. The first cut leaves a slightly longer branch, and the second cut is made closer to the base. The name of this carefully crafted gin was inspired by the distinctive sound unique to the Maana district, where mandarin oranges are harvested with such care.

This ambitious creation, which captures the refreshing aroma and sweetness characteristic of mandarin oranges, won the Silver Award in the Western Spirits (Gin) category at the “Tokyo Whisky & Spirits Competition 2022.”

To preserve the landscape of the terraced fields and ensure that the region’s history as a production area continues for generations to come

Although agriculture in mountainous and hilly regions is generally on the decline nationwide due to factors such as an aging workforce and a shortage of successors, the Maana district has shown exceptional resilience.

The cultivation area managed by the Maana Cooperative was approximately 290 hectares 20 years ago, compared to about 250 hectares today (2025). Through initiatives such as brand development through the cooperative and the introduction of new technologies, the decline in cultivated area over the past 20 years has been limited to just 40 hectares. Furthermore, the rate of decline in the number of farming households appears to be lower than in other regions, with 155 farming households currently supporting the production area.

“I believe that brand development has fostered a spirit among producers, inspiring each of them to take pride in their work,” says Mr. Nakai.

Matching experienced farmers with new farmers

Currently, the Maana District welcomes one to two agricultural trainees each year with the goal of increasing the number of new farmers. Rather than relying on the government, the two believe that the key to shaping the future of the Maana District lies in how the cooperative can actively welcome new farmers.

They are implementing an initiative to recruit producers in their 60s and older who are considering succession planning and match them with trainees. The ideal process involves two years of training under a veteran producer, followed by the eventual succession of that orchard. “Going forward, we want to improve our infrastructure—such as warehouses and orchard roads—to enhance our capacity to accept trainees,” says Mr. Abe.

“By working together in unity—producers and local residents alike—we want to revitalize the mandarin orange industry while competing and learning from other producing regions.”

Nakai’s words were imbued with the pride of a mandarin orange farmer.

The post Preserving the terraced fields of our hometown and carrying on the legacy of Maana Mandarin orange. “Maana Citrus Cooperative Sorting Association” / Yawatahama City, Ehime Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.