Kochi Prefecture is known as the “Yuzu Kingdom,” accounting for about half of the nation’s total production. With an annual output of approximately 10,000 metric tons, it boasts an overwhelming market share and a presence that stands head and shoulders above the rest. Among the villages in the prefecture, Umaji Village ranks only fifth in terms of production volume within Kochi Prefecture, but it has gained nationwide fame thanks to popular products such as the yuzu drink “Gokkun Umaji Village” and the ponzu soy sauce “Yuzu no Mura.”

Once a small mountain village where forestry was the primary livelihood, it has transformed over the past 60-odd years into the “Yuzu Village” that attracts so many visitors.

A Turning Point for a Village Where 96% Is Forested 

Maji Village is about an hour and a half’s drive east from Kochi City. You drive deeper and deeper along winding mountain roads before finally arriving. It is one of Japan’s rainiest regions. Surrounded on all sides by mountains over 1,000 meters high, the village is 96 percent forested. Houses and fields are clustered together on the remaining 4 percent of flat land in the narrow valleys.

“It really is deep in the mountains,” laughs Momota Nagano, chairman of the Maru Village Agricultural Cooperative, which supports the village’s economy.

The village has a history dating back to the Warring States period of producing the prized “Yanase cedar,” which was even presented to Toyotomi Hideyoshi. At its peak, it is said that 3,500 people lived here. However, from the 1940s onward, the forestry industry declined as it was unable to withstand the tides of change—including dam construction for postwar reconstruction, the decommissioning of the forest railway, and the influx of imported lumber. And so, the new path they chose was “yuzu.”

A Small Yuzu’s Journey, Which Began 60 Years Ago  

According to Mr. Nagano, it is said that yuzu seeds were originally brought to Shikoku—including Kochi Prefecture—by “fugitives of the Heike clan,” and that they were introduced to Maru Village approximately 800 years ago. While yuzu is relatively easy to cultivate almost anywhere, from coastal areas to mid-mountain regions, its quality reportedly varies remarkably depending on the growing region.

In Maru Village, where daylight hours are short and temperature fluctuations are extreme, yuzu grow to be small. However, it is precisely this small size that leads to a more intense aroma. When squeezed with the peel still on, a large amount of essential oil is released, resulting in a strong fragrance. This was the “distinctive character” bestowed by the deep mountainous terrain.

The village began full-scale cultivation in Showa 38. Initially, it was said to be a series of hardships.

Since they were latecomers to yuzu cultivation within the prefecture, they sought sales channels outside the prefecture. However, at that time in Japan, yuzu was not yet a widely known citrus fruit, and days went by without it being appreciated. “How should we market this?” The village agonized over the question, thought it through thoroughly, and eventually created the yuzu beverage “Gokkun Umaji Village” and the ponzu soy sauce “Yuzu no Mura,” both of which would later gain nationwide recognition.

Promoting the Countryside: The Birth of “Gokkun Umajimura”

Although they succeeded in developing products made with yuzu, they struggled to expand their sales channels afterward. In the Showa 60s, the village made a major decision. Rather than chasing after the city, they shifted course toward “turning the rural charm of Umaji Village into a selling point.”

“After talking with a designer, we decided to ‘sell the countryside.’” It was a major decision.

The packaging captured the rustic atmosphere of Maru Village exactly as it was. They named the product “Gokkun Maru Village.” Although supermarket buyers harshly criticized it, saying, “We can’t tell what kind of juice this is,” the village stuck to its decision.

The ingredients are simply yuzu, honey, and water. The shelf life is a mere four months. The philosophy of “being a place of origin rather than a manufacturer” is embedded in both the taste and the approach. Rather than adopting a manufacturer’s mindset that prioritizes ease of distribution and long shelf life, they focused on the intrinsic quality of the yuzu. That was their pride as a producing region.

Gradually, the product began to sell. Eventually, despite limited funds, they produced a TV commercial that showcased the village’s natural beauty. It became a hot topic within the prefecture, and “Gokkun Umaji Village” grew to become one of Kochi’s signature beverages. The commercial marked a turning point for the small village as it turned its way of life into a commercial product.

We will continue to value warm, heartfelt communication with our fans

Over the course of about 30 years since its launch, “Gokkun Marumura” has grown into a nationally recognized product, and the village’s total annual sales of processed yuzu products have reached 3 billion yen. Sales have remained steady at that level for the past 20 years. “The target range—which allows us to maintain stable production using yuzu grown within the village and provide benefits to both the yuzu farmers and the village—is between 3 billion and 3.5 billion yen. “We have no plans to source raw materials from other regions to increase production,” says Mr. Nagano. Since 2006, the agricultural cooperative has offered “Yuzu no Mori Processing Plant Tours” to give visitors a behind-the-scenes look at the production line. Additionally, the call center responsible for customer service places great importance on “person-to-person interaction” over the phone.

“I feel that our fans in Umaji Village are looking for our ‘voices,’ not just automated responses,” said Mr. Nagano. “Sometimes they ask, ‘How’s the scenery in Umaji Village these days?’ I think being able to have that kind of back-and-forth conversation is something unique to this village’s call center.”

The village continues to steadfastly deliver its “rural charm” to this day.

A “Major Industry” Created by a Small Village

Producing processed yuzu products is not merely about creating local specialties. It was an “industrialization” effort that created jobs in the village and supported people’s livelihoods. Mr. Nagano explains that the village office, the agricultural cooperative, and the producers have worked together to develop this into a major industry to replace forestry.

“Simply selling raw materials doesn’t create jobs. It’s through processing that jobs are created within the village.”

Currently, the Umaji Village Agricultural Cooperative employs about 90 people. It is remarkable that a village with a population in the 700s has generated this many jobs. Ponzu, beverages, jams, marmalades, yuzu kosho—over 100 different products are produced at the village’s factory.

The latest hit is canned chu-hai. True to Maji Village’s commitment to recreating the flavor of yuzu without additives, Mr. Nagano says with delight, “We’ve finally perfected a yuzu chu-hai that we’re truly satisfied with.” Sales have already reached 12,000 cases.

Furthermore, cosmetics made with “seed oil” extracted from yuzu seeds are also popular. “By putting these seeds—which previously had no use—to good use, we can give back to the farmers. We want to continue focusing on these efforts to minimize waste,” says Mr. Nagano. Yuzu has become a driving force supporting the village’s future.

The Pride of Organic Farming 

All yuzu grown in Maru Village have been organically cultivated since 2001. No chemical pesticides, chemical fertilizers, or herbicides are used.

“Precisely because we use the fruit with the peel intact, we want people to be able to eat it with peace of mind. That’s why we chose organic farming.”

However, organic farming tends to result in “black spots” on the fruit’s surface, which can sometimes put the produce at a disadvantage in the market. Even so, the village has remained committed to growing yuzu in a way that stays true to nature.

“It’s easier to convey the value of organic farming through yuzu tea and products made from the peel. Going forward, we want consumers to choose ‘peace of mind’ over appearance,” says Mr. Nagano.

The village also produces compost by mixing cedar bark with yuzu pulp and allowing it to ferment. This initiative, which recycles the bounty of the mountains, is characteristic of Maru Village.

The Future Illuminated by Yuzu: Where the Village Is Headed 

Thanks to the yuzu industry, Umaji Village has become a “village where people can live comfortably.” Currently, there are reportedly 190 yuzu farming households, including those who farm part-time. Since yuzu is used as a raw material for processing, it has the advantage of being easy for even people in their 70s or 80s to continue farming. For seniors, it’s said that life in the mountains is perfectly sustainable if they have supplementary income of 1 million to 2 million yen from yuzu, in addition to their pension. Since the village offers employment opportunities at the agricultural cooperative and the town hall, there are actually a surprisingly large number of young people here.

“Actually, I moved here from another region too,” Mr. Nagano says with a smile. “Maru Village is a truly rural area with a population in the 700s. However, it has a solid business foundation. I don’t think there are many other municipalities of this size that offer such opportunities.” You can choose either rural life or business in this mountainous area, or you can enjoy both. Furthermore, the fact that it’s possible to work in agriculture as a side job is quite unique. In addition, even though the forestry industry has declined, it still exists, and we’re seeing cases where young people are starting to work in the mountains. I want to promote both the livability and the sense of fulfillment here.”

I want to increase the number of people who feel, “I’m glad I live in Maro Village.”

However, the population decline continues. There are challenges that cannot be solved by yuzu alone. Looking to the future, Mr. Nagano said, “Going forward, I want the agricultural cooperative to be the force that solves the village’s challenges. I believe it is our role to work on education and welfare as well, and to preserve the village’s prosperity. I want to increase the number of people who feel glad they live here.”

Plans are underway to renovate Umaji Onsen in collaboration with Snow Peak. The goal is to attract even more tourists than the current annual total of over 60,000. “While yuzu is only available in November, essential oils are available year-round. I think a hot spring featuring the scent of yuzu would be an interesting idea,” said Mr. Nagano, as his vision expands.

Mountain villages across Japan are struggling with depopulation. Umaji Village has forged a path to prosperity by diversifying its primary industries and promoting the unique character of its remote mountain setting. The challenges facing this village of 700 residents will continue for some time to come. We can’t take our eyes off its future.

The post A remote village made famous by the yuzu drink “Gokkun Marumura.” The challenges faced by the “Marumura Agricultural Cooperative” / Aki District, Kochi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Chitose-cho, Bungo-Ono City, Oita Prefecture. In this area rich in natural beauty, an agricultural processing company produces “Yuzu Pepper”—a seasoning with a spicy kick that enhances the flavor of dishes. Gozo Tomonaga of Oita Chitose-mura Agricultural Processing, who oversees production, is working tirelessly to revitalize local agriculture under the motto, “Let’s make this the star of the table.” Behind those words lies a deep passion for the region’s agriculture and food culture.

The taste of home, born in the mountains of Kyushu

Hot pot, yakitori, udon. Just a tiny bit of yuzu kosho added to a dish can completely transform its flavor profile. Once a condiment known primarily in Kyushu, yuzu kosho has gradually made its way onto dining tables across Japan.

The ingredients are surprisingly simple: yuzu peel, chili peppers, and salt—that’s all there is to it. Yet the flavor created by the interplay of these three ingredients is anything but simple.

Yuzu Pepper, which had its own unique flavor in every household

Originally, yuzu pepper was a preserved food made by farmers in the mountainous regions of Kyushu. Some theories suggest it originated in Oita Prefecture. When yuzu are in season, the peel is grated, mixed with chili peppers and salt, and packed into jars. The amount of yuzu, the heat of the chili peppers, and the amount of salt vary from household to household. That is precisely why the flavors, of course, differed as well. In some parts of Kyushu, there is a custom of calling chili peppers “kosho,” and it is said that the name “yuzukosho” originated from this.

A Company Born in the City of Citrus

Bungo-Ono City is known as a major producer of kabosu citrus, as well as sweet potatoes, taro, and mitsuba, and is a region with a thriving agricultural sector, boasting one of the nation’s highest production volumes of green bell peppers. It was in this region, in April 1998—when what is now Chitose Town was still known as “Chitose Village”—that “Oita Chitose Village Agricultural Products Processing” was founded.

At the time of its founding, the company’s operations were limited to the manufacture and sale of kabosu products. The company was established based on the idea of processing the harvests brought in by local producers in this region, which had long been a major kabosu-producing area. According to Mr. Tomonaga, kabosu is a “citrus fruit that excels at bringing out the flavors of other ingredients while playing a supporting role.” On the other hand, yuzu—the raw material for yuzu kosho, which has become the company’s flagship product—is described as “a citrus fruit with a vibrant aroma that stands out on its own.” These two citrus fruits, with their contrasting characteristics, have shaped the company’s journey.

Although the company started out with just a single product—100% kabosu juice—it eventually faced difficulties operating on a single product line and decided to seek support from other companies to restructure. At that time, Maruichi Seika Co., Ltd. served as their consultant. At the time, Mr. Tomonaga’s father was the company’s representative, and the firm acted as a wholesale distributor of produce at the public market in Oita. After getting back on its feet by utilizing existing staff and receiving executive support, the company began manufacturing and selling yuzu kosho in 2006. The catalyst was a proposal for business diversification from an executive dispatched by Maruichi Seika, who suggested, “Why don’t you try making yuzu kosho?” Approximately four years after the business succession, this advice became a major turning point for the company.

Authentic Yuzu Pepper Made with Just Three Ingredients

Yuzu Kosho, produced by Oita Chitose Village Agricultural Processing, is made using only three ingredients: green yuzu and green chili peppers—primarily from Oita Prefecture—and salt from Nagasaki Prefecture. Regarding the green yuzu, the company reports that due to a shortage of raw materials resulting from expanded production, it now sources them not only from Oita Prefecture but also from other prefectures across Kyushu. Prepared using traditional storage methods and free of artificial flavors and colorings, it is a seasoning that closely resembles a genuine, natural product.

Problems Faced at Yuzu Pepper Production Sites

The yuzu used isn’t the yellow, ripe variety; the reason for deliberately using green yuzu is that its crisp, sharp flavor complements the heat of the chili peppers. Additionally, while “Taka no Tsume” chili peppers were initially used, the team switched to a variety called “Hot Purs EX”—which yields about twice as much as the original—since a single “Taka no Tsume” plant yields only about 1.5 kg. The salt used is “Namishio” from Nagasaki Prefecture. While “Namishio” has a slightly sharp edge hidden beneath its saltiness, it reportedly pairs well with the flavor of the chili peppers. These three ingredients form the foundation of Mr. Tomonaga’s yuzu kosho.

However, sourcing these ingredients is becoming more difficult with each passing year. Although Oita Prefecture boasts one of the highest shares of yuzu production nationwide, the shortage of raw materials is becoming more severe as demand for yuzu kosho rises. While Mr. Tomonaga remains committed to using yuzu from Oita, he also sources raw materials from production areas in Kumamoto, Miyazaki, and Kagoshima. Furthermore, with an eye toward securing future supplies, he is working to expand production areas within the prefecture by providing yuzu saplings to farmers free of charge and encouraging them to grow the fruit. He also secures 60 to 80 metric tons of chili peppers annually while supporting producers through initiatives such as providing seedlings.

Chili peppers are a relatively flexible crop: seedling production begins in January, transplanting takes place in May, and harvesting occurs from July to November, allowing for relatively flexible adjustments to increase production. However, yuzu takes 8 to 10 years from planting to harvest. While “yuzu pepper” spread nationwide, riding the wave of the “spicy food boom” around 2005, the challenge of securing raw materials weighs more heavily as its popularity continues to rise.

Smoothness and richness born of time and effort

“Since chili peppers contain a lot of moisture, we remove it before using them,” says Mr. Tomonaga. “That’s what reduces off-flavors and adds depth of flavor.”

Yuzu fruits, which begin to grow larger around July, are harvested and prepared over a period of about one month starting in late September. Immediately after harvesting, the peel is removed, and the fruit is salt-cured and stored for one year. Chili peppers are also salt-preserved in the same way; they are carefully blended in a mixer until all seeds and other impurities are removed, then mixed with the other ingredients. It is precisely this time-consuming process that creates the smooth texture of Oita Chitose Village Agricultural Processing’s yuzu kosho.

They are also particular about the ingredient ratios. Since green yuzu has little peel, they use a larger amount of green chili peppers; and because they do not use additives, they set the salt concentration high to control microbial growth. While many other companies use a 1:1 ratio of green yuzu to chili peppers, Mr. Tomonaga intentionally increases the proportion of chili peppers. This is to create a sharp flavor where the spiciness comes through directly. “Although the product itself becomes slightly firmer due to the removal of moisture, I use this manufacturing process because I really want to achieve a concentrated flavor.”

Mr. Tomonaga’s dedication is evident in every single step of the manufacturing process.

Making Agriculture an Industry People Want to Join

In addition to raw material shortages and challenges in the manufacturing process, Mr. Tomonaga has another concern: labor. Chitose Town has a population of about 2,600. Many of the workers are elderly, and handling highly pungent chili peppers places a heavy physical strain on them. The building used as the factory is a former school site; before that, it was a precision watch factory, so it is not optimized for food production. Furthermore, the filling process is semi-manual and capping is done by hand, meaning the products cannot be completed without the help of part-time employees. Mr. Tomonaga strongly feels the need for automation in the future.

In recent years, climate change and soaring prices for imported fertilizers and materials have also weighed heavily on the business. Price adjustments alone are not enough to absorb the rising costs, and there are times when he has to make unreasonable demands on producers. He says he feels deeply distressed every time this happens.

Initiatives to Engage Young People

For agriculture to remain sustainable, it is essential to create an environment where farmers can continue their businesses. What matters is not whether prices are “high” or “low,” but rather establishing a system where the cycle from production to consumption functions properly. Unless farmers can stabilize their livelihoods through their year-round work and enjoy a certain degree of financial comfort, agriculture will not be passed on to the next generation.

“I believe agriculture needs to become an attractive industry—one that people actually want to be a part of. It must become an industry that attracts successors. While government support is certainly necessary for that, I’m thinking about what I can do myself.”

As he grapples with this question, one of the initiatives Mr. Tomonaga is pursuing is the development of new products and collaborations with other companies. He also wants to move away from the industry’s traditional, staid image and create labels and concepts that appeal to younger generations. As a first step in this direction, he has already begun selling pouch-style jellies made with kabosu juice that you can suck on.

The scenery of this land, captured in a small bottle

Yuzu kosho, produced in the small town of Chitose, has now spread throughout the country. Inside each small jar lies a glimpse of the local landscape: yuzu trees, chili pepper fields, the hands of farmers, and the factory where it is transformed into a condiment.

The post Making Yuzu Pepper the Star of the Seasoning. “Oita Chitose Village Agricultural Processing” / Chitose-cho, Bungo-Ono City, Oita Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Kochi Prefecture is said to be the birthplace of “fruit tomatoes”—tomatoes with a high sugar content—and high-value-added, high-sugar-content tomatoes are produced and sold throughout the prefecture. In Konan City, which boasts the third-highest production volume in the prefecture, Majima Farm has successfully established a brand of “fruit tomatoes” called “Ushi no Megumi.” Mashima Farm is located near National Route 55, which runs through the eastern part of Kochi Prefecture, about 10 minutes from Kochi Ryoma Airport. It is a family-run dairy and vegetable farm where barns and plastic greenhouses stand between residential homes and fields. The farm produces milk, turns cow manure into “concentrated compost” for sale, and has been working to grow flavorful “fruit tomatoes” using that compost. Furthermore, using the same compost, the farm cultivates green papayas on abandoned farmland and grows pasture grass for animal feed, thereby practicing a sustainable, circular system of crop-livestock integration.

Building a cycle between dairy farming and agriculture, and dedicating our efforts to passing it on

Junichi Mashima, the farm’s owner, says, “Our family has been in the dairy farming business for about 60 years, ever since my father’s generation.” Twenty-six years ago, when his mother was hospitalized, Mr. Mashima moved back to the area from out of state with his wife and son to take over the family business.

They raise Holsteins, a breed specialized for milk production, and currently care for 35 head. However, the environment surrounding dairy farming is challenging, due to soaring feed prices and a decline in milk consumption in school lunches caused by the falling birthrate. “Dairy farming is becoming increasingly difficult for family-run operations, and there is a trend toward large-scale operations—such as ‘mega-farms’ and ‘giga-farms’—as well as increased use of IT,” says Mr. Mashima.

Amid these challenges, the Mashima family continues to find ways to create a circular system between dairy farming and crop farming while reducing costs—for example, by switching to self-produced feed. Today, Mr. Mashima primarily handles the dairy operations, while his wife, Mika—who holds a certification as a vegetable sommelier—is in charge of tomato cultivation, and their son, Sho, works alongside them as the couple’s successor.

Making “Dried Cow Manure Compost” (Highly Concentrated Type)

Since taking over the dairy farm from his father, Mr. Mashima has reportedly gone through a process of trial and error to find ways to make effective use of manure and urine, which are byproducts of dairy farming.

He wondered how he could take the composting efforts his father had started and develop them into a marketable product. He researched various methods, including reading books, and devised a unique technique: using a drying machine to reduce the moisture content of the manure and urine to less than 10 percent, then reusing the dried compost as a moisture-regulating agent.

“By mixing in the dried compost once it’s ready, we can adjust the moisture content and produce more high-quality compost. By repeating this process, we’re able to consistently produce high-quality compost without adding materials like sawdust.”

At the same time, with an eye toward sales, my father began growing ‘fruit tomatoes’ around the year 2000 to verify the effectiveness of the compost. He learned cultivation techniques from a relative who ran a tomato farm, and two years later, my husband and I took over the know-how. As a family, we conducted repeated trials, including optimizing the amount of compost applied.

“Once people started saying our tomatoes were delicious and they began selling well, the high quality of our compost was proven, and we were able to start selling the compost as well—but it took about five or six years to really get the business on track,”

It’s not uncommon for dairy farmers to produce compost. Generally, compost with a moisture content of 60% or higher is made by mixing manure and urine with rice husks or sawdust and allowing it to ferment. However, cases like Majima Farm’s—where dried manure is used to adjust moisture levels—are extremely rare.

Mashima Farm’s “dried cow manure compost”—an ultra-concentrated type consisting of 99.9% cow manure—is lightweight, easy to handle, and of high quality as a fertilizer. As word has spread, orders from farmers have increased, and they reportedly can’t keep up with production demand.

“We’re proud that even a small amount is highly effective as a fertilizer for crops,” says Mr. Mashima.

Start with large tomatoes and gradually cultivate them into high-sugar “fruit tomatoes.” 

To begin with, “fruit tomato” is not the name of a specific variety. Regardless of variety or size, any tomato with a sugar content of 8 or higher is called a “fruit tomato.” Small “cherry tomatoes” are often confused with fruit tomatoes, but “cherry tomatoes” is simply a general term for small tomatoes classified by shape. Unless they exceed the specified sugar content, they cannot be shipped as fruit tomatoes. Therefore, cultivation methods designed to increase sugar content are crucial. Generally, it is said that selecting smaller tomato varieties and growing them with restricted water intake makes it easier to increase sugar content, but Majima Farm has established its own unique cultivation method.

At Majima Farm, they use the large-fruited variety “Momotaro Fight.” They selected this variety after testing various types based on criteria such as flavor, tenderness, and skin firmness. They say the texture of the skin makes it enjoyable even for older people to eat.

“We’re still experimenting, but over the past few years, I think this variety has been the best fit for our cultivation methods,” says Mika.

The Mashima School takes more time than anywhere else

What sets them apart most is their philosophy of taking their time to grow healthy plants and then “slowly developing them to achieve high sugar content.” Because they take longer to grow their tomatoes than other farms, they sometimes receive inquiries from customers asking, “Other fruit tomatoes are already on store shelves—when will your tomatoes be shipped?”

While many farmers use “isolated cultivation”—which restricts root spread and strictly controls watering—to quickly increase sugar content and produce “fruit tomatoes,” Majima Farm does not restrict root spread. Instead, they take the time to grow healthy plants with strong root systems. Water restriction is also implemented gradually. Their commitment lies in the fact that they deliberately choose not to treat the plants as “fruit tomatoes” from the very beginning.

“To begin with, there are no seeds specifically for ‘fruit tomatoes’; we take large-fruit tomato varieties and cultivate them using methods that transform them into fruit tomatoes. In our case, we don’t use grafting; instead, we grow the plants so that the stems become thick and the roots spread widely. Furthermore, to ensure the effects of the compost last as long as possible, we apply a slightly larger amount of compost at the start. As a result, the plants initially produce large fruits. From there, we gradually restrict water to increase the sugar content. As a result, the tomatoes do end up smaller, but we produce tomatoes that are larger than average and have a high sugar content.

“I don’t find tomatoes appealing if they’re just sweet,” says Mr. Mashima. “I want them to have a tomato-like sweetness that comes from a balanced blend of sweetness and acidity, and I place great importance on the unique umami flavor derived from our homemade cow manure compost.”

トマトの目利きは、妻と息子

The sugar content is largely determined by the time the fruit begins to change color; as ripening progresses from there, the acidity transforms into umami, and the sweetness becomes more pronounced, resulting in subtle changes in flavor.

“As the sugar content rises, the flesh inside the tomato becomes translucent. Another indicator of high sugar content is a dark green line called ‘base green’ that appears at the stem end of a green tomato. The ‘star mark’ has become well-known, but we also use that as a guide while tasting the tomatoes daily to check their condition. When it comes to judging quality, my wife and son are simply in a league of their own,” says Mr. Mashima. His wife, Mika, continues:

“We divide up the task of assessing the tomatoes among the family. I do think we need to train the next generation, and if we were looking for uniformity, we could just use a sugar content sensor instead of relying on people. But we want to respond directly to the varying preferences of our customers. After all, we’re selling and interacting with customers face-to-face, so this is something we really want to cherish.”

As expected of Kochi Prefecture, known as a production area for “fruit tomatoes,” there is a lot of competition. Amidst this, Majima Farm meets customer requests with meticulous attention to detail.

A unique “diagonal training” method and the handcrafted work that supports 5,500 vines

Upon entering the tomato field, the first thing that catches the eye is an unusual cultivation method called “diagonal trellising.” This involves training the plants to grow diagonally while allowing the roots to spread freely. “We tried the hanging method, but we gave it up because the harvesting posture was too strenuous,” says Mr. Mashima.

With diagonal training, the harvest height rises as the plants grow, making the work easier. However, it requires an enormous amount of labor. All 5,500 plants must be tied with string, side shoots removed, and tended to daily. During peak season, the family alone isn’t enough to handle the workload, so they enlist help. This was the method he was first taught. Since then, for over 20 years, Mr. Mashima has spared no effort in continuing this tradition of diagonal training.

Furthermore, they have managed the temperature and humidity in the greenhouse not through computer control, but through experience and intuition honed over the years. True to its reputation as the “tropical region” of Kochi, it remains warm even in winter, with daytime temperatures ranging from 12 to 16°C. Moreover, while climate change has led to days when the temperature inside the greenhouse reaches 30°C, “We manage it with our own eyes and senses,” says Mika. Their refusal to cut corners and the experience they’ve accumulated over the years make all the difference.

Pest control involves “environmentally friendly agriculture,” which reduces the use of pesticides and utilizes natural predators. 

Furthermore, to control whiteflies—which damage tomato crops—they grew sesame alongside the tomato seedlings and collected seeds for the natural predator, the tobacco green stink bug. They planted cleome, the tobacco green stink bug’s host plant, to allow it to reproduce naturally and suppress pest outbreaks. They also practiced “environmentally friendly agriculture” aimed at reducing pesticide use. Kochi Prefecture stands out nationwide for its high level of awareness and active practice of this “environmentally friendly agriculture.” Led by the JA (Agricultural Cooperative), the region is promoting cultivation methods that do not rely on pesticides.

The “Ushi no Megumi” network, which spread through word of mouth among fellow vegetable sommeliers

The catalyst for expanding their sales channels was when Mika, the owner’s wife, earned her vegetable sommelier certification. A few years after moving to the area with her husband, Mika commuted from Kochi to Kagawa every weekend with five friends to earn her certification. The fellow vegetable sommeliers she met afterward—both within and outside the prefecture—showed their support by connecting them with restaurants and department stores and sharing their story on social media. Word of mouth spread in this way, and orders from outside the prefecture began to increase.

“Our customers bring in more customers,” they say.
For a family-run business with no time to go out and promote themselves, this has been a tremendous help.
Their greenhouse covers 25 ares. Although people ask, “Why not expand further?” they deliberately choose not to in order to maintain quality.

“25 ares is the limit we can manage properly between the two of us,” the couple explains.

Taste over scale. Their top priority is making their current customers happy. That commitment continues to grow their fan base.

Caring for cows leads to delicious milk 

Meanwhile, peering into the barn, I saw the dairy cows peacefully grazing on the grass. A calf looked over at me with curiosity. “Sakura-chan, Sakura-chaaan,” Mika called out. Apparently, every cow in the barn has a name, and she’s been telling them “You’re so cute” ever since they were calves. Even though keeping the cows stress-free is the number one requirement for producing delicious milk, Mika’s voice is as gentle as a mother calling out to her child.

The barn is equipped with misting systems and large fans to protect the cows, which are sensitive to heat. Their horns are cauterized and removed during early childhood to prevent injuries. Four times a day, each cow eats 25 kg of feed and produces about 30 L of milk. Breeding is also handled with great care. The first insemination takes place at 14 months of age, and the gestation period is 10 months. Milking is stopped two months before calving to ensure the nutrients go to the calf.

Furthermore, as part of a prefectural initiative, the farm cooperates with the embryo transfer program for “Tosa Akaushi.” Holsteins serve as surrogate mothers, supporting the region’s livestock industry.

To Surpass “Last Year’s Deliciousness.” A Family’s Ongoing Challenge  

The cycle in which compost from dairy farming nourishes crops, becomes feed for the dairy cows, and ultimately turns into delicious milk is what sustains Majima Farm.

At Majima Farm, the tomato harvest runs from December through the end of June. After that, they take a brief break before starting the next planting cycle, but Mika laughs and says that the period of tending the plants after planting is “the most fun.” Conversely, she says that once the harvest begins, the days become quite nerve-wracking.

“Up until now, we’ve made continuous efforts to improve our produce, and thanks to that, we’ve been able to build a loyal customer base. So now, we’re focusing on maintaining the same great taste as much as possible. My son is working hard on this, but in recent years, I’ve come to realize that managing the farm while anticipating future conditions is extremely difficult in the face of climate change.”

Mika adds, “The memory of ‘delicious’ in our customers’ minds becomes more idealized with each passing year. That’s why I grow tomatoes with the determination to surpass those memories—putting my heart into them so that customers will say they’re ‘delicious’ again next year,” she says.

Water management, adjusting fruit size, and meticulously assessing growth conditions with her own eyes every day—without relying on machines—are just some of the many efforts made to preserve the flavor. Combined with the “expert eye” that only a family can provide, these efforts will bring this year’s tomatoes to fruition.

The “cycle of blessings” created by cows, compost, and tomatoes will continue into the future, sustained by the power of the family.

The post “Mashima Farm,” the family that grows “Ushi no Megumi” cherry tomatoes—which attract orders from all over the country—/ Konan City, Kochi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Iseki Agricultural Machinery Co., Ltd. is one of Japan’s leading agricultural machinery manufacturers. Its founder, Kunisaburō Iseki, was born in Mima Village, Kita-Uwa District (now Uwajima City), a rural area known for producing delicious rice (Mima rice).

I want to free farmers from grueling labor

Ehime Prefecture is the birthplace of the company’s founder, Kunisaburō Iseki. The “ISEKI Dream Gallery” in Matsuyama City showcases the history and technology of Iseki Agricultural Machinery Co., Ltd. From a young age, Kunisaburō Iseki was involved in the family farming business. Farm work at that time was backbreaking labor, and he is said to have harbored a strong desire to “free farmers from grueling labor.” Amid an era of transition from manual labor to mechanization, driven by his passion for creating better products, he founded “Iseki Agricultural Tools Trading Company” in Matsuyama City in 1926. The first piece of agricultural machinery he developed was a “fully automatic rice hulling machine.” The company continued to contribute to the mechanization and modernization of agriculture, evolving into a business that supported postwar food production increases and Japan’s period of rapid economic growth.

Manufacturing from Matsuyama That’s Shaping the Future of Agriculture

In 1936, the company established a factory in Matsuyama City. Since then, it has developed and produced numerous agricultural machines that contributed to the mechanization and modernization of agriculture, supporting postwar food production increases and the period of rapid economic growth. In 1978, the Matsuyama Factory began production of large tractors. This factory, with its long history, continues to serve as the manufacturing division of the ISEKI Group’s agricultural machinery business under the name “ISEKI M&D Co., Ltd.” It serves as the core manufacturing hub within the ISEKI Group, providing manufacturing support for initiatives such as “Smart Agriculture” and “Environmentally Sustainable Agriculture.”

“As we transition from manual labor to mechanization, we want to build machinery that is truly useful. We continue to uphold our founder’s philosophy of ‘Let’s make quality products,’” says Masahiro Sakai, President and CEO of ISEKI M&D Co., Ltd.

The agricultural machinery manufactured by ISEKI M&D ranges widely from models for small-scale farms to high-output 130-horsepower tractors. The company handles a diverse lineup of products, including lawn mowers used overseas and ride-on maintenance machines that perform tasks such as weed control, pesticide and fertilizer application, and soil moisture retention. Because the company has established an integrated in-house production system—from parts machining to painting and assembly—it can quickly respond to the demand for a wide variety of products in small quantities, leading to the creation of products that are easy for farmers to use and affordable.

Smart Agriculture and an Integrated System for Vegetable Production Mechanization

The reality facing the agricultural sector is harsh. Due to the aging workforce and a shortage of successors, the number of workers is steadily declining. Tasks such as harvesting, planting, and crop management must be carried out intensively over short periods in accordance with the seasons and weather, making it impossible for the limited workforce to keep up. What is needed in these fields is agricultural machinery technology that can reliably ensure crop yields with minimal labor.

ISEKI is focusing on “Smart Agriculture,” which balances agricultural efficiency with environmental conservation. By leveraging the latest technologies—such as IT, sensors, GPS, and robotics—to enable operations tailored to crop conditions and field characteristics, the company achieves high productivity even with a limited workforce.

ISEKI also develops and manufactures tractors and robotic tractors equipped with smart agriculture technology. For example, GPS-based positioning assists tractors in maintaining a straight course within the field. This eliminates the need for operators to make frequent, precise steering adjustments, thereby reducing fatigue. Furthermore, robotic tractors contribute to improved operational efficiency by working in coordination with humans under human supervision.

In addition, the company developed “variable rate fertilization technology” in 2015, which adjusts fertilizer application rates based on field conditions. By minimizing fertilizer waste while reducing variations in crop growth and leading to stable quality and yields, the company aims to achieve both reduced environmental impact and improved productivity.

Around 1990, as mechanization advanced, the number of labor hours required for rice cultivation fell to one-fourth of what it had been in 1960, while the need for labor-saving measures in vegetable farming also grew. Compared to rice farming—where an integrated mechanization system involving rice transplanters, combine harvesters, and dryers was well established—vegetable farming at that time lagged behind in mechanization, creating a strong demand for reduced physical labor and labor savings. ISEKI is a company that has focused on developing an “integrated vegetable farming mechanization system,” beginning with the commercialization of the fully automatic vegetable transplanter “Nauel PV101.”

In fact, vegetable farming is characterized by significant regional variations in cultivation methods. Take green onions, for example: even when referred to simply as “long green onions,” the varieties and cultivation methods differ from region to region. There are also regional variations in ridge width and planting spacing, and ISEKI has developed machinery that allows farmers to adjust these settings to suit their specific region.

　Furthermore, the company has established an “Integrated Vegetable Production Mechanization System” by offering a full range of machinery and supplies compatible with a wide variety of crops, including daikon radishes, onions, cabbage, broccoli, taro, carrots, lettuce, edamame, green onions, and sweet potatoes. This system enables the consistent mechanization of the entire vegetable production process—from seedling cultivation to planting, management, harvesting, and sorting. This enables flexible adaptation to the production of multiple varieties in small quantities and to differences in growing conditions across regions, allowing for efficient farming operations with consistent quality even with a small workforce.

100 Years Since Our Founding: Connecting the Future of Agriculture Through Technology and People

Through continuous technological development aimed at solving real-world challenges on the farm, ISEKI holds approximately 2,200 patents, including technologies related to the development of agricultural machinery such as tractors, rice transplanters, and combine harvesters. The technical expertise the company has cultivated supports the evolution of smart agriculture and is transforming on-farm work into a more reliable and less burdensome process.

The new models manufactured by ISEKI M&D are a prime example of this. The company is also actively engaged in smart agriculture that leverages digital technologies such as GPS. These technologies support the agricultural know-how cultivated through many years of experience. For example, by having machines assist with precise tasks that skilled operators once performed intuitively, even less experienced operators can more easily perform work to a consistent standard. By using digital technology to pass down agricultural techniques—which have traditionally been handed down from person to person—to the next generation, the company is helping to address the shortage of workers and support the realization of sustainable agriculture.

Due to factors such as a declining workforce in the agricultural sector and the impacts of climate change, the number of workers on farms is decreasing. Improving efficiency and environmental considerations are essential. With the government’s “Green Food System Strategy” providing a tailwind, there is a growing demand for a shift toward sustainable agriculture, including labor-saving measures and organic farming.

ISEKI will celebrate its 100th anniversary in 2026 and, as a company proud of its long history of technology and experience, is committed to addressing these challenges. The company develops large-scale, cutting-edge, field-crop, and eco-friendly agricultural machinery that balances labor-saving efficiency with environmental conservation. By expanding its range of eco-friendly technologies—including electrification—ISEKI supports highly productive and sustainable agriculture through high-quality agricultural machinery.

Furthermore, the company is dedicated to nurturing the next generation of engineers. We provide hands-on opportunities in design, manufacturing, and cutting-edge technology to hone problem-solving and decision-making skills, while also emphasizing the importance of learning from the technical expertise and wisdom cultivated over many years. The capabilities of the people and technology nurtured in this way directly contribute to agricultural efficiency and environmental consideration, supporting a more sustainable and prosperous agricultural sector. This approach to manufacturing—woven together by technology and people—will continue to bring new possibilities to agriculture.

The post Creating the Machinery of Our Dreams: A 100-Year-Old Company’s Vision for Agriculture and the Future. “Iseki Agricultural Machinery Co., Ltd. / ISEKI M&D Co., Ltd.” / Matsuyama City, Ehime Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Otawara City in Tochigi Prefecture ranks first in the prefecture for rice production. Among its producers, Masahide Akutsu of Akutsu Farm boasts a track record of awards at the “Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition” and has received numerous other accolades, including certification as “Toyo Rice World’s Best Rice 2022.” Given that rice from Tochigi Prefecture is not particularly well-known, why is the rice produced by Mr. Akutsu so highly regarded?

Land Suitable for Rice Production: Otawara City

Otawara City is located on a vast alluvial fan in the Nasu region of northern Tochigi Prefecture, known as “Nasuno-gahara.” It is home to the Nasu Irrigation Canal, one of Japan’s three major irrigation canals. The water flowing from the Nasu mountain range is groundwater rich in minerals. Thanks to this abundant water source, the area is well-suited for rice cultivation.

Of course, it’s not just about the water. The area has fertile soil, and its climate—with sufficient temperature and sunlight in summer to promote rice growth and winter cold that suppresses pest infestations—combined with a flat terrain that facilitates water management and allows for the development of large-scale rice paddies, has made it a prime rice-growing region.

The name “Otawara City” is said to derive from “O-tawara” (large rice bale), reflecting the fact that this has long been a region with a thriving rice production industry.

Rice from Tochigi Prefecture: High on the Rice Production Rankings, Yet Little Known

According to data on “Crop Conditions and Yields of Paddy and Upland Rice by Season (by Agricultural Region and Prefecture Nationwide)” released by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries in 2021, Tochigi Prefecture ranks eighth nationwide in rice production by yield. However, rice produced in Tochigi is not particularly well known. This is because the prefecture capitalizes on its proximity to the Tokyo metropolitan area, with rice for commercial use being the mainstay of its production.

Commercial rice refers to rice used in restaurant chains, convenience store bento boxes, and school lunches—not the rice sold for home use in supermarkets and other retail outlets. Although we have many opportunities to consume it, we rarely see the place of origin or brand name when eating it, which makes it difficult for “Tochigi rice” to gain widespread recognition.

In fact, according to 2017 data from the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, Tochigi ranked first among the top 10 prefectures with the highest proportion of sales for commercial use, with nearly 70 percent of its rice sales going to that sector.

A region that isn’t well-known but produces delicious rice

Mr. Akutsu grows rice in this environment. Since his family ran a farm, he began working in agriculture after graduating from college—and it’s been about 20 years since then. He has now succeeded his father, with whom he currently grows rice, becoming the fifth-generation farmer.

The turning point came about eight years ago when he entered the “Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Contest” for the first time.

Although Mr. Akutsu was aware of the competition’s existence, he had never entered it until then. However, he says he had a firm confidence that “the rice from this region is delicious”—and above all, that “the rice from my own farm, which I eat every day, is even more delicious!” So, upon learning that anyone could enter, he recalls thinking, “If I enter, maybe I’ll win a prize?” and submitted his entry with a lighthearted attitude.

However, in 2016—his first year of entry—at the “18th Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition,” he immediately won the Special Excellence Award in the “Prefectural Representative Rice Championship” category. He was particular about the Koshihikari he grew and had confidence in it. While he thought, “See? If I enter, I can win after all,” he also sensed the limits of achieving a top ranking with “Koshihikari.”

This is because Koshihikari is the most widely cultivated variety in Japan, so the number of entries in the competition is overwhelmingly high, with producers from all over the country flocking to submit their rice. Just as he was feeling that “it would be difficult to aim any higher with Koshihikari,” he began searching for “something else” on his own—and that’s when he discovered “Yudai 21.”

My Encounter with “Yudai 21,” a Variety Developed at Utsunomiya University

Around that time, the “Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition” began awarding the Gold Prize in the International General Category to a variety called “Yudai 21.”

Yudai 21 is a rice variety developed at a national university; it was created over a period of 20 years from a rice plant discovered by chance at the farm affiliated with the Faculty of Agriculture at Utsunomiya University in Tochigi Prefecture, and was registered as a variety in 2010. Although it is considered difficult to cultivate—as the plants grow tall and are prone to lodging, and fertilizer and water management require delicate care and technical skill—it truly shines in environments where careful attention can be given, such as in mid-mountainous areas, and is a variety capable of achieving yields and quality on par with or exceeding those of Koshihikari. Furthermore, Yudai 21 has a strong sweetness and a rich, distinctive flavor, leading us to intuitively recognize its potential for acceptance among general consumers. Consequently, we decided to begin cultivating Yudai 21 the following year (2017).

Initiatives Undertaken Before the Creation of Yudai 21

Even before establishing Yudai 21, Mr. Akutsu had become increasingly determined to “grow rice without using pesticides” and had been working toward pesticide-free cultivation. He says this effort was inspired by his desire to help alleviate his family’s allergies.

Pesticide-free cultivation—which involves the arduous task of weeding—took some time to gain the understanding of his father, the previous generation of farmers, but by starting with a small plot of land, he gradually earned his father’s approval.

Yudai 21 is also adopting pesticide-free farming practices

Given this background, Yudai 21 began cultivation on 3 tanbo (roughly the size of 12 tennis courts) without using any pesticides.

The farm gradually increased its production, and by the fourth year of cultivation, it was growing Yudai 21 on more than half of the approximately 4 hectares dedicated to rice for staple food consumption.

Why Is “Yudai 21,” Made by Mr. Akutsu, So Delicious?

Yudai 21 is characterized by its large, glossy grains and attractive appearance. When tasted, it is praised for its rich umami flavor and well-balanced taste, with a sweetness that becomes more pronounced the more you chew.

Demand has been growing year by year as people who have actually tasted it say it’s “delicious,” and Akutsu Farm is reportedly expanding its cultivation area every year.

Why “Akutsu Farm” Was Chosen, Even Among Highly Rated Varieties

As mentioned earlier, Otawara City, where Akutsu Farm is located, is an ideal region for growing rice. It is said that when nighttime temperatures drop, the rice absorbs nutrients that enhance its flavor and transports them to the ears.

Akutsu Farm is surrounded by mountains and sits at an elevation of 200 meters. The significant temperature difference between day and night is believed to influence the flavor. Additionally, water is drawn into the rice paddies from the nearby Sabi River; for about 4 km upstream from Akutsu Farm, this river flows underground. As a result, the water can be drawn into the paddies while it is still cold, and this low water temperature helps lower the nighttime air temperature, which is said to further enhance the flavor.

Furthermore, Akutsu Farm’s rice paddies are situated on a river floodplain, where the soil is rich in minerals and highly fertile—a factor that likely makes the already delicious “Yudai 21” even more flavorful.

Pesticide-free cultivation has maximized the potential of Yudai 21

But that’s not all. Mr. Akutsu’s commitment to pesticide-free farming is likely another reason.

He says the most difficult part of pesticide-free farming is weed control.

To make weed control possible, he spaces the plants farther apart so that weeds can be removed from both the front and back. While typically 50 seedlings are planted per tsubo, the pesticide-free “Yudai 21” variety uses a “37-seedling-per-tsubo” planting method, reducing the number of plants by about 40 percent.

With this sparse planting method, the wider spacing between plants creates a V-shaped space where the ears of rice spread out, allowing sunlight to reach even the leaves at the base of the plants. Additionally, because nutrients are distributed more evenly, the ears are more likely to grow large.

Furthermore, the improved airflow between plants makes it harder for diseases such as “rice blast” and “sheath blight” to take hold, resulting in the production of robust rice plants.

Of course, no herbicides are used; instead, natural substances such as yeast, natto bacteria, and lemongrass extract—which repels insects—are sprayed to achieve pesticide-free cultivation. Even so, depending on the season, Mr. Akutsu enters the rice paddies every day to weed by hand.

Mr. Akutsu’s “Yudai 21,” cultivated with great care and effort, has earned high praise and is supplied to stores such as Mitsukoshi, Isetan, and The Ritz-Carlton Nikko. In 2025, it began being carried by “the rice factory,” a specialty store for Japanese rice with locations in New York and Los Angeles.

Demand for pesticide-free rice is particularly high overseas, and Mr. Akutsu’s efforts are highly regarded.

“Yudai 21” has been highly acclaimed since its first year of cultivation

Yudai 21, produced by Akutsu Farm, won the Gold Award in the Prefectural Division of the “Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition” in its very first year of production.

The following year, it received the Special Excellence Award in the International Comprehensive Division—the competition’s highest category—and in its fourth year, at the “23rd Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition,” it won the Gold Award in the International Comprehensive Division. From among the brown rice varieties that won Gold Awards at the “Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition,” this rice was certified as part of the “Toyo Rice World’s Best Rice 2022” program—organized by Toyo Rice, a comprehensive rice manufacturer famous for its “Kinme Rice”—which carefully selects the highest-grade brown rice based on its own criteria emphasizing “deliciousness and vitality.” As a result, the farm became one of only four producers nationwide to be selected as a supplier of raw rice for the world’s best rice.

The Evangelist of Yudai 21

It is reported that Utsunomiya University—the creator of “Yudai 21”—plans to partner with municipalities and other entities to use “Yudai 21” for town revitalization efforts.

Mr. Akutsu has been appointed as the “Yudai 21 Evangelist” by Utsunomiya University and will be responsible for sharing cultivation methods and other knowledge with local farmers.

It would be wonderful if “Yudai 21” served as a catalyst for raising the profile of Tochigi-grown rice nationwide, leading to increased attention for all rice produced in Tochigi Prefecture—regardless of variety.

To that end, Mr. Akutsu—embracing both the title and responsibility of “ambassador”—continues his outreach efforts today, hoping that people will “try ‘Yudai 21,’ a rice variety with a unique flavor unlike any other.”

The post Masahide Akutsu of “Akutsu Farm,” Who Grows Rice Using the “Yudai 21” Variety Developed in Tochigi / Otawara City, Tochigi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Yamada Town is located roughly in the center of Iwate Prefecture’s coastline. Because it faces the Pacific Ocean, it is strongly associated with fishing, but the town is also known for its log-grown shiitake mushrooms, and almost every year, farmers from the town have won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award at national competitions. Eizo Haga, one of only a handful of renowned experts in this field nationwide, is considered a pioneer in the cultivation of log-grown shiitake mushrooms in Yamada Town.

A cool climate and lush mountains nurture log-grown shiitake mushrooms

Yamada Town, located in Shimohei District, Iwate Prefecture, is a town embraced by nature, with the Pacific Ocean to the east and the Kitakami Mountains stretching to the west. Because the mountains are rich in broadleaf trees such as beech, oak, and red pine, the area is ideal for growing shiitake mushrooms on logs, and shiitake cultivation is thriving here. Since log-grown shiitake mushrooms prefer locations that are sheltered from direct sunlight, well-ventilated, and have moderate humidity, the mountainous forest environment—where vegetation provides shade, the cool climate at higher elevations, and the moisture released by trees’ respiration help maintain optimal conditions—is ideal.

Incidentally, shiitake mushrooms are classified as “log-grown shiitake” or “substrate-grown shiitake” depending on the cultivation method, and most fresh shiitake mushrooms sold in supermarkets are substrate-grown. The reason for this is that substrate-grown shiitake are cultivated by artificially adding nutrients to blocks of compressed sawdust, allowing them to be harvested in 3 to 6 months—a growth rate nearly four times faster than that of log-grown shiitake. Furthermore, as long as the necessary facilities are in place, they can be grown anywhere and are not affected by the climate, resulting in stable production volumes.

On the other hand, log-grown shiitake mushrooms are cultivated by inoculating natural logs with spawn, so they rely solely on the nutrients from the wood and take time to grow. While it is possible to cultivate them indoors as long as you have the logs for inoculation, log-grown shiitake mushrooms that have been carefully cultivated in a natural environment with optimal conditions are said to have a particularly rich flavor and thicker caps.

In Yamada Town, these log-grown shiitake mushrooms are often dried and processed into dried shiitake mushrooms (hoshishitake). Among dried shiitake mushrooms, those with large, well-shaped caps are highly prized as gifts and high-end ingredients. 

Dried shiitake mushrooms from Yamada Town—a premium ingredient

Dried shiitake mushrooms have several names. “Hana-donko” refers to mushrooms with white, flower-like cracks on the surface of the cap; due to their beautiful appearance, they are often used as gifts. “Kōshin” refers to mushrooms with caps that are more open than those of standard donko and have gills; because they produce a rich broth, they are highly valued in simmered dishes and the like. The Zen-Noh Dried Shiitake Mushroom Competition features categories such as “Kōshin (medium-leaf, thick-fleshed),” “Hana-donko,” and “Donko,” with entries judged based on color, shape, and size.

Dried shiitake mushrooms that win awards at these competitions are used as premium ingredients in hotels and traditional Japanese restaurants. Yamada Town’s dried shiitake mushrooms, prized for both their appearance and flavor, are in high demand among chefs and sushi masters.

As a master of log-grown shiitake mushrooms

Eizo Haga, a master of log-grown shiitake mushrooms, has established a mushroom workshop in the Toyamane district—located inland within Yamada Town—where he cultivates log-grown shiitake mushrooms. In the fall, he heads into the mountains to forage for matsutake mushrooms as well. The matsutake mushrooms gathered by Mr. Haga, who knows the mountains well, are renowned for their high quality, and he is known among locals as the “Mushroom Master.”

Mr. Haga began cultivating log-grown shiitake mushrooms in 1983, when he was about 38 years old. He won his first Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award at a national competition when he was 49. Since then, he has won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award five times in the “Hanadonko” category. Having become a regular recipient of the highest honors, Mr. Haga was awarded the title of “Master.” Since then, he has continued to enter competitions in various categories and has accumulated numerous awards.

Cultivating log-grown shiitake mushrooms using the abundant oak trees in Yamada Town

Mr. Haga’s log-grown shiitake mushrooms are cultivated both outdoors and in greenhouses. The logs used to inoculate the shiitake spores are made from Japanese oak. Broadleaf trees, not conifers, are best suited for these logs. While oak is commonly used in other prefectures, there are no oak trees growing in the forests of Yamada Town; however, since Japanese oak is abundant there, that is the wood used. Japanese oak also has a characteristic bark with cracks, making it easier to inoculate with shiitake spawn. Mr. Haga says, “Some places cultivate shiitake using other broadleaf trees, but even after trying them, shiitake grown on Japanese oak still tastes the best.” Since shiitake mushrooms grow best in cool, moderately humid environments, it is preferable for the logs to be shielded from direct sunlight. Therefore, even though it is called “open-field cultivation,” the mushrooms are actually grown in mountain forests shaded by tall trees. The size of the shiitake mushrooms is said to be proportional to the size of the logs. In other words, the thicker and sturdier the log, the larger the shiitake mushrooms will grow.

A Leading Force in Log Cultivation in Yamada Town

The year 1983, when Mr. Haga began cultivating log-grown shiitake mushrooms, coincided with the time when Yamada Town was just beginning to focus its efforts on shiitake cultivation. Many others also began growing log-grown shiitake mushrooms around the same time. However, once the Heisei era began, inexpensive Chinese shiitake mushrooms flooded the market, causing market prices to plummet. There was a period when Yamada Town’s log-grown shiitake industry also faced difficult times. It is said that some growers even went out of business during that period. Even amid these challenges, Mr. Haga continued to actively enter his mushrooms in competitions across the country. 

Reflecting on the Future of Log-Grown Shiitake Mushrooms

Even at over 80 years old, Mr. Haga continues to energetically cultivate log-grown shiitake mushrooms. “Log-grown shiitake mushrooms have a better texture and more umami than those grown on sawdust beds,” he says, explaining his commitment to log-grown shiitake.
He explains that to win awards at competitions, he enters shiitake mushrooms with caps that are as uniform as possible in size, color, and shape. To grow a large number of mushrooms of the same size, the logs must also be uniform in size. The logs have a diameter of about 18 cm. Because they are quite heavy, managing them is hard work for the elderly Mr. Haga.

“If you keep them inside the greenhouse for too long, they’ll suffer from heat stress. By July, it gets hot inside the greenhouse. When that happens, we move the logs back to the mountains. Rather than spraying them with pesticides, returning them to the mountains provides better ventilation and is better for them,” said Mr. Haga. November. Although no shiitake mushrooms had yet sprouted on the logs in the greenhouse, he said they would be ready for harvest around April. Because they are cultivated using logs that have not been treated with pesticides, log-grown shiitake mushrooms are safe and reliable.

I will continue to grow shiitake mushrooms on logs for as long as I live.

Mr. Haga has been at the forefront of shiitake cultivation on logs in Yamada Town ever since it first took off. Even as other producers his age have stopped farming, he continues to lead the way in shiitake cultivation. “My biggest challenge is my own physical stamina,” he says. “I work every year thinking this might be my last batch of shiitake.” Yet even under these circumstances, Mr. Haga continues to achieve outstanding results at competitions. “I suppose it’s the result of many years of experience. If you visit the farm every day, the weather tells you what to do. When the humidity rises, the caps split open, revealing distinct white cracks, and the shiitake mushrooms turn out beautifully. When the humidity is too low, I water them. I have to say, I’m doing a pretty good job. I also need to train the next generation. I want to keep doing my best as long as I live,” says Mr. Haga. His expression radiated the pride of a master craftsman.

The post Continuing to Lead the Way in Yamada Town’s Log-Grown Shiitake Mushrooms: Eizo Haga, Master Mushroom Grower / Yamada Town, Iwate Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Pineapple fields stretch across the rolling hills overlooking the sea. Located on the east coast of northern Okinawa Island, Higashi Village in Kunigami District is the home of “Gold Barrel,” a premium pineapple that accounts for just 5% of Japan’s total production. What is the story behind the “King of Pineapples”—the Gold Barrel—and the aspirations of its young growers?

The History of Pineapple Cultivation in Okinawa Prefecture

Okinawa Prefecture accounts for nearly 100% of Japan’s domestic pineapple production, with an annual harvest of approximately 7,000 to 8,000 metric tons. It is said that pineapple cultivation began in 1866 when seedlings washed ashore from a Dutch ship that had run aground off the coast of Ishigaki Island. After World War II, when cultivation and breed improvement for canning began in earnest, pineapples grew to become one of the two major staple crops alongside sugarcane by the 1960s.

However, the once-thriving pineapple industry suffered a major blow with the liberalization of canned product imports in 1990, and cultivation of the Hawaiian variety “N67-10”—which had been the mainstay for processing—began to decline.

Shift to high-value-added varieties for fresh consumption

Although pineapple cultivation had declined at one point, Okinawa Prefecture is shifting toward growing high-value-added varieties intended for fresh consumption. Today, the prefecture produces “Snack Pine” (official name: Bogor Pine), which can be torn apart by hand and eaten as a snack, the small, white-fleshed “Peach Pine” (official name: Soft Touch), the intensely sweet “Sandolce” (official name: Okino P17), the “White Coco” (official name: Okino P19) with its coconut-like aroma, and the premium “Gold Barrel” (official name: Gold Barrel Pine). These and many other fresh-eating varieties have been developed and are now being cultivated, steadily expanding their market share.

The Birth of the Premium “Gold Barrel” Pineapple

“Gold Barrel,” registered as a new variety in 2006, originated in Higashimura. It was developed over a period of approximately 20 years from a seedling obtained in 1989 at the Okinawa Prefectural Agricultural Research Center by crossing “Cream Pine” and “McGregor ST-1.” The variety was named for its golden-colored flesh and barrel-like shape.

The most distinctive feature of Gold Barrel is its high sugar content. While the sugar content of typical pineapples ranges from 14 to 16 degrees, Gold Barrel has a much higher sugar content of 17 to 19 degrees. Furthermore, the fruit is so tender that even the core is edible, and it has less of the characteristic sharp tartness typical of pineapples. When you take a bite, it’s melt-in-your-mouth tender and juicy, and because it has very little fiber, it doesn’t leave a gritty texture in your mouth. With its refined sweetness and rich aroma, and weighing approximately 1.5 to 2 kg per fruit, it has gained attention as a premium pineapple for gift-giving.

Tadao Tamaki, the creator of “Gold Barrel”

Tadao Tamaki of Tamaki Farm—a pioneer in pineapple cultivation in Higashimura and an Honorary Agricultural Advisor for Okinawa Prefecture—played a pivotal role in the creation of this new variety. Starting with 11 frail seedlings he had received, Mr. Tamaki repeatedly selected and nurtured them, and through many years of effort and research, he cultivated “Gold Barrel” into a truly golden-hued fruit.

Among the “Gold Barrel” pineapples Mr. Tamaki grows himself, those that are particularly exceptional in terms of taste, color, size, and shape are named “TADAO GOLD.” Known as the highest-grade variety of “Gold Barrel,” they are selected from only a few percent of the total crop.

The Legacy of Pineapple Farming

Yoshiyuki and Kie Shinzato, who run “Shinzato Fruit Farm” in Higashimura, are the next generation of growers who learned the ins and outs of Gold Barrel cultivation from Mr. Tamaki, who has devoted over 50 years to pineapple farming.

Kie is Mr. Tamaki’s daughter, and she had watched him grow pineapples since she was a child. However, it wasn’t until she entered the workforce that she realized just how remarkable her father’s pineapples were. She says it was after she started working as a pastry chef in Naha City.

Nearly 20 years ago, the pineapples her workplace was sourcing turned out to be Gold Barrel varieties grown by her father. She heard rumors from people around her that “TADAO GOLD” was famous for its delicious taste, and that’s when she realized just how exceptional they were. Thinking, “This might not be a job anyone can do,” she began working side by side with Yoshiyuki—who was born and raised on a part-time mango farm in Nanjo City—to take on the challenge of growing Gold Barrel pineapples.

Gold Barrel, Grown on the Land of Higashimura

Higashi Village, home to Shinzato Orchard, is not only one of the prefecture’s leading pineapple-producing areas but is also known as “Yanbaru,” a region where rich natural landscapes—including mangrove forests—and unique ecosystems remain well-preserved. In the vast fields where patches of red soil peek through, pineapples that have grown to about waist height stand densely planted in neat rows.

Higashimura’s red soil and climate, ideal for pineapple cultivation

One reason pineapple cultivation thrives in Higashimura is the acidic, well-drained red clay soil that pineapples prefer most. Additionally, the terrain allows minerals from the sea to seep into the soil, and summer temperatures range from 30 to 35 degrees. These conditions produce pineapples with high sugar content.

Soil preparation that capitalizes on the advantages of this soil is a crucial factor in pineapple cultivation.

Soil preparation begins by using a power shovel to till the soil to a depth of about 1 meter. Since water is the pineapple’s arch-enemy, this process creates air pockets in the soil, improving drainage. The tilled soil is then left to rest for three months, exposed to natural rainfall to allow moisture and minerals to permeate the soil while incorporating air, helping it regain its vitality. This process also prevents problems such as stunted growth caused by continuous cropping.

And apparently, the most important aspect of soil preparation is weed control. “My father-in-law tells me most often not to let the weeds grow,” says Yoshiyuki. To prevent an infestation of scale insects, they don’t use machines for weeding—they pull them out almost entirely by hand. This labor-intensive and time-consuming approach to soil preparation ultimately contributes to the flavor of the pineapples.

From Planting to Growth to Harvest

Pineapple planting is generally divided into two main periods: spring (March and April) and summer (September and October). Spring planting is timed so that the roots can establish themselves before the rainy season begins in late May. Summer planting is scheduled while monitoring typhoon conditions to ensure the planted seedlings do not rot due to rain.

Once the fruit has grown to a certain size, each one is covered with a hat made of newspaper to protect it from sunburn, and then covered with netting to block strong ultraviolet rays, thereby preventing the skin from burning and spoiling. Additionally, since the large, heavy “Gold Barrel” variety can have its stems snapped by strong typhoon winds, pipes are installed to support the stems.

Gold Barrel pineapples, which are grown with great care in an environment optimized for the crop, are finally ready for harvest approximately three years after the seedlings are planted. Since pineapples generally do not continue to ripen after harvest, they are allowed to ripen on the plant and harvested at the peak of their flavor. As harvest time approaches, the ripeness of each fruit is checked daily, and ripe ones are harvested by hand.

Carrying Dreams in a Gold Barrel

Shinzato Orchard harvests approximately 9,000 pineapples annually. While standard pineapples can be harvested twice in four years, the Gold Barrel variety yields only once every three years. Despite being a difficult variety to cultivate—with limited yields and susceptibility to disease—the growers spare no effort, meticulously preparing the soil and waiting for the fruit to ripen on the tree before picking it at the peak of flavor.

That said, it is this meticulous work that produces the Gold Barrel—a pineapple that is tender right down to the core and boasts a rich, fragrant aroma. “My father-in-law conducts research every day and continues to incorporate new techniques even though he’s over 80. I’m young, but I still can’t keep up with him,” says Yoshiyuki humbly.

While absorbing techniques and knowledge from Mr. Tamaki, he is eager to expand production by gradually increasing the acreage of Gold Barrel—a variety that is difficult to grow and has unstable yields—with the goal of eventually achieving a stable harvest of 12,000 to 13,000 fruits.

Meanwhile, Kie is focused on establishing a shipping system. Gold Barrel, which is allowed to ripen on the tree, has a shelf life of just three days after harvest. The process of polishing each pineapple individually with a cloth and packing them by hand into boxes can take up to 22 hours during peak harvest season. However, they hope to streamline this process by adopting new systems—such as machinery—so they can devote even more time and effort to growing the pineapples.

The couple currently donates their harvested pineapples regularly to local elementary schools and children’s homes. This stems from their desire to change people’s “assumptions” about pineapples: “When we were children, we thought it was normal for pineapples to be a little sour. However, depending on the variety and cultivation methods, they can become this sweet. We want children to know that pineapples are sweet and delicious, and we want to change what people take for granted about pineapples.”

Just as Mr. Tamaki nurtured golden fruits from 11 frail seedlings, that passion and expertise are now being passed on to the next generation. The Gold Barrel pineapples, rooted in the red soil of Higashi Village, will continue to bear sweet fruit, carrying the dreams of these two men.

The post The Challenge of the Second-Generation Owner of “Shinzato Orchard,” Aiming for the Top of the Gold Barrel / Higashi Village, Kunigami District, Okinawa Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Nestled in the mountains of Hita City, Oita Prefecture, “Houkouen” has been growing pears for 70 years. Tomomi Nakama, the third-generation owner, is dedicated to preserving the sweet, juicy pears nurtured by the land’s vitality and her unwavering commitment to “sharing delicious food with her customers.”

“Hita Pears Throughout the Seasons”

In the northwestern part of Oita Prefecture, in the inland region of Kyushu bordering Fukuoka and Kumamoto, lies a town called Hita. Nestled deep within a basin surrounded by mountains, this area has long been blessed with abundant water and, due to its proximity to the headwaters of the Chikugo River, has been called the “Land of Water.” During the Edo period, it flourished as a territory directly administered by the shogunate, and even today, its historic streetscape and hot springs—which retain traces of that era—welcome visitors. In Hita, with its abundant natural beauty, there is a popular local product: pears.

Tomomi Nakama of “Houkouen” is the third-generation pear grower who has devoted his heart and soul to pear cultivation in this region. Driven by the single-minded desire to “share with customers the delicious fruits I enjoy eating myself,” his pear farming has attracted many repeat customers and garnered such strong support that he receives inquiries every year asking, “Are they ready yet?”

Houkouen began growing pears about 70 years ago, during the generation of Mr. Nakama’s grandfather. Mr. Nakama himself began working at his family’s farm immediately after graduating from college. “I always thought I would take over the business,” she explains. Having become involved in the family business at a young age, Mr. Nakama continues to dedicate herself to the unique art of pear cultivation specific to this region.

A region where various natural conditions make it ideal for pear cultivation

When it comes to pear-producing regions, Tottori and Chiba Prefectures are the first to come to mind. In terms of production volume by prefecture, Oita Prefecture ranks around 10th. However, in Hita City, a variety of pear cultivars are grown that can be shipped from late July through around December, and the local JA Pear Committee promotes this rich selection under the slogan “Hita Pears All Year Round.”

So why is it possible to grow such high-quality pears in Hita City? When I asked Mr. Nakama, he replied, “It’s the power of the land.”

Located in a basin, Hita City experiences significant temperature differences between morning and evening, with nighttime temperatures sometimes dropping to 12–13 degrees during the summer. The lower the nighttime temperature, the more sugar the fruit can store from what it has accumulated during the day. This is why areas with large temperature fluctuations are said to be ideal for fruit production. Then there’s the water. Hita City, blessed with both high-quality water and abundant water supply—so much so that it’s known as the “Land Polished by Water”—provides the perfect conditions for pear cultivation. And then there’s the soil. This region’s red clay soil, rather than sandy soil, has the ability to retain nutrients, serving as the foundation for a bountiful harvest. Temperature differences, water, and soil.

It is the convergence of these three elements that gives rise to Hita’s pears.

At Houkouen, we currently cultivate six main varieties for shipment: starting with Kosui, followed by Houzui, Shinko, Akizuki, Atago, and Okusan-kichi. In particular, the late-ripening Okusan-kichi was once cultivated throughout Japan, but because it is labor-intensive to grow, the number of producers has plummeted. As a result, it now accounts for less than 1% of total pear production, with the vast majority reportedly grown in Oita Prefecture. While Okusan-kichi has a moderate acidity, consumers have recently shown a preference for sweeter varieties with less acidity, and these changing times are reflected in the selection of varieties.

While trying to figure out what the pear tree wants,

“I look at the tree and try to determine whether it needs water or nutrients—similar to the supplements people take,” says Nakama. “I consider what to do while assessing these factors.”

Pear saplings begin to bear fruit little by little around their third year after planting. They bloom around the same time as cherry blossoms, and the sight of seven or eight blossoms opening from a single branch resembles the way cherry blossoms bloom. Harvests peak when the trees are about 20 years old, and although yields decline gradually thereafter, some trees are said to continue bearing fruit even after they are over 100 years old. To ensure the fruit grows large and firm, and to transform the sugars produced through photosynthesis into sweetness, there is no alternative but to constantly watch over the orchard and the trees, applying meticulous care at every step. It is this accumulation of time and effort that yields sweet pears.

The key is soil preparation

At Houkouen, we use organic fertilizers such as compost mixed with cow manure and sawdust, as well as fish meal and rapeseed oil cake. Continued use of these materials softens the soil, improves drainage, and promotes the healthy growth of microorganisms. While chicken manure compost is another option, we have chosen cow manure compost because it has a long-term effect on the soil, whereas chicken manure compost, though it provides immediate results, does not last as long.

Furthermore, instead of using herbicides on weeds growing in the fields, they are cut with machinery. This allows earthworms to thrive in the soil, and their castings provide organic matter that serves as food for microorganisms. Additionally, as the earthworms move around, they aerate the soil, promoting the decomposition of organic matter by microorganisms. In this way, living, fertile soil is created.

However, Mr. Nakama notes that even in this region, where various conditions for pear cultivation are ideal, there are still challenges that must be addressed.

Challenges Facing Pear Cultivation

When asked about the challenges they face in pear cultivation, three answers emerged: climate change, tree diseases, and labor shortages.

As for the climate, temperatures have been high in recent springs, causing pear trees to bloom earlier. The flowering period is the most delicate stage; if a late frost occurs at this time, the pistils turn black and wither, potentially preventing fruit from setting. Excessively hot summers, prolonged periods of rain, and then sudden, heavy downpours in a short span of time. The weather in recent years has become increasingly unpredictable, further exacerbating conditions that weaken the trees. Mr. Nakama confides that while he adapts flexibly by monitoring the weather to adjust fertilization and water management, it remains quite challenging.

Tree diseases are another source of concern. As a result of repeated breeding efforts to improve flavor, there are now more varieties that are susceptible to disease. He considered switching to organic farming, in line with global trends in agriculture, but had a bitter experience when he tried it with pears: disease spread rampantly, and the effects lingered for several years. He says he struggles to strike the right balance between using pesticides and ensuring safety.

And then there’s the labor shortage. Houkouen is no exception. Typically, pears grow about 180 cm above the ground. This means workers must keep their faces and hands raised the entire time they’re working, placing a considerable strain on their necks, shoulders, and lower backs. In the past, they could rely on local seniors and housewives who would come during peak season, but now there’s no one left to turn to. Currently, they’re managing by relying on a few local residents and bringing in workers from outside the prefecture only during peak season.

Changing the way trees are pruned to reduce the burden on workers

Faced with a workforce largely made up of inexperienced workers, Mr. Nakama changed the way the trees were pruned. “Normally, trees grow upward. However, if you bend the branches down at an angle of about 30 to 40 degrees, the fruit will grow at a slightly lower height than before. When the fruit grows at a height of about 90 cm, it makes the work easier even for inexperienced workers.”

He is shifting toward a cultivation method that allows anyone to harvest the fruit. While keeping costs down, he is also considering the future introduction of harvesting robots. Mr. Nakama is steadily exploring a path that will allow the operation to function even without human labor.

As demand for fruit continues to decline year after year,

Along with labor shortages, Mr. Nakama is facing a decline in demand for the fruit itself. For pears in particular, the fact that they must be peeled before eating is a major hurdle. While many people say they “like pears,” that doesn’t necessarily translate into purchases. He has noticed that younger generations, in particular, simply aren’t buying them; in fact, whether in stores or through online sales, about 70 percent of buyers are in their 50s or older. While varieties like Shine Muscat—which can be eaten with the skin on and have no seeds—are gaining popularity, demand for fruits that require extra effort to prepare is declining, partly due to their status as luxury items. This is Mr. Nakama’s analysis.

As a solution to this problem, Mr. Nakama is working to broaden the appeal of pears.

To Convey the Charm of Pears

In addition to selling fresh pears, Houkouen also handcrafts processed products such as juice, jam, and dried fruit. Although they can’t produce large quantities, these items are very popular because they allow people to enjoy the delicious taste of pears year-round. “Making these processed products is kind of like a hobby,” Mr. Nakama says with a laugh, but behind those words lies a sincere desire to share the appeal of pears with as many people as possible.

Among these products, “pear vinegar” is particularly unique. As the name suggests, it is vinegar made from pears. It was born from a simple idea: “If wine can be turned into balsamic vinegar, why not pears?” These unusual products have garnered a good reputation, leading to increased media coverage of Houkouen. When exhibiting at events, she brings both fresh pears and processed products. Some people choose the juicy pears, while others reach for the processed items—each person discovers the pears in their own way. Nakama says that every time she sees this, she realizes that the appeal of pears is gradually spreading.

For the Future of Pear Cultivation

Although there are currently about 100 pear farms in Hita, that number continues to decline year by year. One reason for this is that the generation that experienced a period about 15 years ago—when prices hit rock bottom to the point where farmers could no longer make a living from market sales alone—is no longer passing the business down to their children. Mr. Nakama himself has a son, but he doesn’t feel strongly that his son must take over the farm. “When I’m old enough to retire, if there’s someone who wants to take over, I’ll hand it over to them”—that is his honest sentiment. That is precisely why he is steadily continuing his efforts to adapt his cultivation methods so that production and harvesting can be managed even without ample labor or experience.

No one knows at this point what the future holds for pears. Nevertheless, with an eye on the future, Mr. Nakama continues to tend to his pears day after day. “As long as people say they’ll miss pears if they become scarce, I’ll keep going. I can’t let down the expectations of customers who buy them because they’re ‘delicious,’ so I’ll never cut corners.”

“Hita pears, all year round.” A key part of this tradition is the presence of farmers like Mr. Nakama, who pour their hearts into pear cultivation. For the sake of those eagerly awaiting this year’s pears, Mr. Nakama stands in his Hita orchard once again today.

The post “I want to broaden our reach and share the appeal of pears with as many people as possible.” Tomomi Nakama of “Houkouen” / Hita City, Oita Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Kochi Prefecture is a tropical region rich in natural beauty, nurtured by the bounty of the Pacific Ocean and its mountains and rivers. Among its areas, Haruno-cho in Kochi City is a warm region facing the Pacific Ocean. It features breezes blowing in from the sea, abundant sunshine, and a landscape where plains and hills intertwine. Drawing on these natural blessings, Farm Vegeco is paving the way for the future of agriculture.

Growing Vegetables in Greenhouses in Winter: A Reversal in Agriculture

About 90 percent of Kochi Prefecture’s land area is mountainous, and rivers flowing from the Shikoku Mountains rush down as rapids before emptying into the sea. As a result, sediment does not accumulate over wide areas, and the terrain is characterized by a lack of large-scale plains. So, how can this limited flat land be put to good use? Greenhouse horticulture—which yields high crop yields even on small plots—has developed as a solution to this challenge. Open-field cultivation takes place in the mountainous areas during the summer, while greenhouse cultivation occurs in the plains during the winter. By skillfully adapting to the seasons and the terrain, a unique agricultural system specific to this region has taken shape.

The cucumbers grown by Nagasaki Asahi at Farm Vegeco are transplanted in early October, and harvesting continues daily from mid-November through June. This is a reverse approach: growing in winter crops that typically bear fruit in summer when grown in open fields. The cucumbers, having endured the cold, lose their grassy bitterness and become sweeter. Cucumbers grown in winter greenhouses possess a quiet yet robust flavor distinct from their summer counterparts.

However, in cold regions, the high cost of heating makes it difficult to expand winter cucumber cultivation on a large scale. In this regard, the Pacific coast—with its warm climate and abundant sunshine—is an ideal region for growing winter crops. Among these areas, Kochi Prefecture ranks among the top in the nation for cucumber production, hovering around 6th or 7th place in recent years. It maintains a stable position as a major production center.

Prepare the soil, observe the leaves, and grow the fruit straight

Everything hinges on the three-month summer off-season for Farm Vegeco’s cucumbers. The Nagasaki family, who are also rice farmers, incorporate large amounts of rice husks and rice bran—byproducts of rice cultivation—into the soil and allow them to ferment. This soil preparation is the reason why their winter cucumbers are surprisingly sweet. Just as nuka-zuke pickles become sweet, soil enriched with rice bran brings out the cucumbers’ natural sweetness.

The Vitality of Greenery Thriving in the Greenhouse

Inside the greenhouse, farmers carefully identify the vines—which resemble a “body” and “limbs” extending from a single cucumber plant—and adjust the number of leaves to control the amount of photosynthesis. Each leaf plays a role in nurturing the nearby fruit, so farmers must be careful not to remove too many or leave too many.

In Japanese markets, “straight cucumbers” are in demand. If a cucumber touches a leaf, it bends; if it touches the ground, it turns yellow. Farmers watch over the growth of each individual cucumber, sometimes thinning the fruit and sometimes shaping it by hand to produce “Grade A” produce. “Grade A” refers to standard products that meet specifications for shape, color, and size, with few blemishes or bends. Of course, the taste remains the same even if they’re bent. Nevertheless, the reality is that market standards dictate farmers’ incomes.

Inside the greenhouse, the cucumber vines stretch out thinly as if searching for air, their tips—which have yet to touch anything—gently swaying in midair. It is a quiet movement, almost like hesitation, before they reach out for support.

Within that subtle hint of movement lies the plant’s unwavering will, striving to choose the path its life will take from here on.

A Farm That Has Been in Operation for 50 Years and the Legacy Left by My Family

The history of Farm Vegeco dates back more than 50 years. My father, who had been working at a travel agency, was adopted into a farming family that had been growing melons and tomatoes since my grandmother’s generation, and he took over the farm. He had no prior experience in farming. Nevertheless, with his artisan’s spirit, he engaged with the soil, immersed himself in every task, and honed his skills.

By his side was my mother, who had also worked at the same travel agency. My mother, who possessed the ability to forge connections between people and nature, established the Farm Vegeco brand under the philosophy of “Vegetable Communication & Collaboration.” Valuing dialogue with chefs, she grew not only cucumbers but also herbs and a diverse range of vegetables, continually responding to the needs of culinary professionals. Furthermore, by personally visiting supermarkets in Tokyo and actively participating in product competitions, she quietly yet steadily spread the name of Farm Vegeco among the general public.

To protect the farm his parents had built and pass it on to the next generation, Mr. Nagasaki chose to work the fields himself after a stint as a salaryman in Tokyo. However, in May 2025, his mother passed away due to illness. It was his fourth year back at the farm. Though the time he spent learning directly from her was brief, the spirit she instilled in him—farming to bring joy to people’s faces—remains unchanged and continues to breathe life into the very heart of this farm.

The Reality Facing Farmers Caught Between the Market and Direct Sales

Currently, 70% of Farm Vegeco’s produce is shipped to markets, while 30% is sold directly to consumers. The farm has stopped shipping through the JA. JA shipments involve high commission fees, which can sometimes cut farmers’ take-home pay in half. Pricing is also determined by the JA, making it difficult for farmers to proactively choose their customers. On the other hand, there are significant advantages to entrusting collection, sorting, and sales to the JA, as this ensures stable sales channels.

The appeal of shipping to the market lies in the low commission—around 10 percent—which increases the farmers’ take-home pay. However, this requires farmers to handle all sorting, packing, and shipping themselves, and they are responsible for maintaining consistent quality and building trust. Even so, their love and pride in the cucumbers they grow led them to choose the path of building their own brand.

The unit price of cucumbers is determined by market rates, and farmers have no say in setting the price. Even Grade A cucumbers fetch only about 30 yen per cucumber. It’s a harsh world where non-standard cucumbers sell for just 50 yen per kilogram. Rebuilding a greenhouse costs between 30 million and 40 million yen. Even repairs alone cost millions of yen every year. This is why the number of young farmers isn’t increasing.

Even so, Mr. Nagasaki says, “Farming is fun.”

“I was fortunate to have a foundation because I took over my parents’ farm. But starting from scratch presents a high barrier to entry. If the government had a system to lease unused greenhouses to young people, the farming population would surely grow,” he says.

Increasing direct sales and building connections with chefs and supermarkets that buy at fair prices—that is the path to survival for small-scale farmers. In fact, since winning the Grand Prize at the Vegetable Sommelier Summit in 2013, Farm Vegeco’s profile has risen, and chefs from Tokyo restaurants and international hotels have begun visiting Kochi in search of the farm’s cucumbers. Some overseas chefs even seek out tiny cucumbers still bearing their blossoms. The creativity of these chefs is bringing new perspectives to the farmers.

A “Flavor” We Want to Preserve for the Future: The Aspirations of a Young Farmer

When you take a bite of a cucumber from Farm Vegeco, juice bursts out immediately after harvest, filling your mouth with freshness. What’s more, that freshness is slow to fade, even after several days. Growing slowly in winter tightens the cells, strengthening the fruit’s ability to retain moisture.
Furthermore, the fruits that have endured the winter cold have little of that grassy taste and are surprisingly sweet.

Mr. Nagasaki says, “Even after my father is gone, the last thing I want to hear is that the taste has changed.” . He has no intention of expanding the number of greenhouses. Rather than chasing scale, he prioritizes preserving flavor. And he aims to connect with people who truly appreciate their produce and are willing to pay a fair price for it. That is the future vision for Farm Vegeco.

A single cucumber grown during the winter in Kochi. Behind it lies a family’s history, the local climate, the memory of the soil, and the bonds between people. Inside the quiet greenhouse, even today, a small vine striving to grow straight is reaching out, searching for support.

The post Carrying our family’s hopes into the future. With love from “Farm Vegeco” / Kochi City, Kochi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

“I don’t want to show my children a field where not even insects appear, so I don’t use pesticides,” says Hideyo Ohtake, representative of “Nikkei Farm,” with conviction. Having dedicated himself to agriculture for over 17 years, he is committed to growing vegetables using only organic fertilizers and no pesticides whatsoever. He now cultivates as many as 100 varieties of vegetables annually and is one of the leaders shaping the future of agriculture in Koriyama City, Fukushima Prefecture. He is also known for his “Legend Spinach,” which won the Grand Gold Award at the 2024 “Vegetable Sommelier Summit,” and has garnered attention from across the country. Together with his wife, Shiho—who manages sales at their farm’s direct-sales shop while he tends the fields—and his staff, he is dedicated to growing vegetables that bring joy to people.

I switched careers from hairdressing to farming. In terms of bringing joy to people, it was the same.

As it turns out, Ms. Otake’s first job after graduating from high school was as a hairdresser. “Back in high school, when a hairdresser helped me solve a problem with my hair, the words ‘Thank you’ just naturally came out of my mouth. I thought to myself that someday I’d like to make people happy as a hairdresser too, so I became an apprentice.”

Even back then, the Ohtake family owned a vegetable garden, but when his mother—who had been involved in farming—became too ill to tend the fields, he took over the farm. Driven by a sense of gratitude for having been able to pursue a career as a hairstylist, he eventually decided—after much deliberation—to leave the beauty industry and dedicate himself to farming.

“I never imagined I’d quit hairdressing to pursue farming, so I’m surprised even by myself. At first, I didn’t want to do it—I thought getting covered in mud was uncool. But when someone who ate our vegetables said, ‘That was delicious. Thank you,’ I realized that whether as a hairdresser or a farmer, the act of bringing joy to people is the same. That’s when the desire to make people happy through farming began to take root,” she recalls with a smile.

The creatures living in the soil are our vital partners, indispensable to agriculture.

Frustrated by people telling him that “pesticide-free farming is difficult,” Mr. Otake started by planting 1,000 corn stalks. However, the corn was completely wiped out by damage from palm civets, crows, and insects. Drawing on that experience, he devised strategies such as installing electric fences to keep out palm civets, and gradually increased his success rate. “When you cultivate crops while nurturing microorganisms, it seems that problems caused by continuous cropping—such as vegetable pathogens and stunted growth—don’t occur,” he says, confident in his unique organic farming method.

It has been about 17 years since he became a farmer. With his eager-to-learn and determined personality, Mr. Otake has taken on the challenge of growing a wide variety of vegetables. He began by simply learning about farming, gaining experience through conversations with veteran farmers and receiving guidance, and gradually developed his own style through trial and error.

What Mr. Ohtake values most in vegetable farming is preserving traditional farming methods without using pesticides. However, he is by no means opposed to pesticides. He says that his childhood memories of fun experiences have influenced this perspective.

“I’ve always loved insects; I used to catch rhinoceros beetles and dragonflies. It used to be normal to see frogs in the rice paddies and insects in the fields, but perhaps because people started using pesticides, they disappeared before I knew it. Through my hands-on experience in farming, I’ve learned that it’s the soil that grows the vegetables. By changing how we prepare the soil, the soil microorganisms also change, leading to healthy soil. “When the soil is healthy, the insect population naturally increases. So, in fact, I get hints on how to grow vegetables from the insects themselves. I’m proud to show my children the fields where the insects thrive,” he says with a cheerful smile. He explains that, for insects, the fields are like a restaurant. Rather than selfishly using pesticides, he minimizes interference with the soil and gradually increases the microbial population through green manure. He has built his current farming style on the philosophy that “I am privileged to grow vegetables using soil that is home to insects.”

Overcoming the hardships following the earthquake, they are preserving agriculture with passion

While studying agriculture, Mr. Otake has also pursued his own standards when it comes to distribution. After exploring ways to deliver pesticide-free vegetables and rare, diverse varieties to those who seek them, he decided against supplying markets or agricultural cooperatives (JA). Instead, he has maintained a unique business model of selling directly to contracted retailers and restaurants, while also offering seasonal vegetables at his farm’s own retail outlet.

While Nikkei Farm may appear to have followed a smooth path in agriculture, over the past 17 years it has weathered the reputational damage following the Great East Japan Earthquake and the COVID-19 pandemic, overcoming numerous difficult situations where they were forced to discard the vegetables they had grown.

“Before the earthquake, about 80 percent of our sales came from supplying restaurants in Tokyo through a broker specializing in the foodservice industry, while the local market accounted for about 20 percent. However, due to the reputational damage caused by the earthquake and the nuclear accident, that 80 percent vanished overnight,” he recalls. Since even residents of Fukushima Prefecture were shunning locally grown vegetables at the time, his wife, Shiho, says, “When I think back on those days, I still can’t hold back my tears.” For a while, their daily routine consisted of growing produce only to throw it away, which took a heavy toll on them both physically and mentally. The company was operating at a continuous loss and was barely viable, but they were supported by the reopening of local restaurants and have been taking small steps toward recovery ever since.

“It was truly painful and difficult for about 10 years. However, while many people were forced to give up farming after the disaster, we resolved that we must carry on the agricultural traditions of Fukushima Prefecture and Koriyama into the future,” he says, expressing his feelings for his hometown.

At our farm stand, we sell fresh, seasonal vegetables grown with organic fertilizer.

Tucked away in a quiet residential neighborhood in Otsuki-cho, Koriyama City, the Nikkei Farm direct sales shop carries a wide variety of vegetables—primarily their own, but also those from other producers who grow delicious produce. The small shop is lined with colorful vegetables and rare varieties rarely seen elsewhere, bringing smiles to visitors’ faces. Grown without pesticides and using organic fertilizers, the vegetables are packed with the bounty of nature, boasting rich flavors and aromas. During the summer, in addition to edamame, zucchini, and green beans, colorful cherry tomatoes, beets, and “Kyomanju” (eggplant) make their appearance. The round, adorable salad squash and freshly picked corn are so fresh they can be eaten raw.

“Although it’s just a verbal recommendation, I introduce customers to several recipes they can enjoy using the vegetables we sell,” says Shiho, who runs the farm stand, with a smile. “It’s fun to talk to them directly, and I’m happy to be able to convey the appeal of our vegetables.” She adds that many people visit the stand after tasting dishes made with Nikkei Farm’s vegetables at local restaurants and wanting to try cooking with them themselves.

It’s as sweet as fruit. Corn you can eat raw

Nikkei Farm, which cultivates as many as 100 varieties annually, operates on a “small quantities, wide variety” model; however, even among these, its flagship product—corn—accounts for shipments of as many as 26,000 ears. During the three-month summer peak season, the farm harvests the corn every day around 3:00 a.m. and ships it while it’s still fresh and just-picked. This is because corn accumulates starch (sugar) overnight, and it is at its sweetest in the morning. In addition, corn harvested early in the morning has a higher moisture content, making it easier to maintain freshness and helping to prevent quality deterioration caused by the daytime heat.

At Nikkei Farm, corn is grown for about 10 days longer than usual, which concentrates the sweetness and deepens the flavor. The white corn variety “Pure White” maintains a high sugar content of 22.5 degrees, while the yellow corn maintains 21.5 degrees.

“We harvest the corn by feeling the top of the cob to make sure the kernels are firm, checking the base, and judging by the dryness and color of the silks,” says Mr. Otake, holding a cob of Pure White. He explains that by taking measures such as cutting the stems and reducing the number of leaves to prevent the corn earworm—a well-known corn pest—pest damage has been dramatically reduced.

“I recommend eating white corn raw. You can enjoy its juiciness and fresh sweetness. For yellow corn, cooking it slightly brings out more sweetness,” he told us.

I want to move many people with the taste of vegetables.

“I still have so many dreams,” says Mr. Otake with a smile. One of those dreams—which has become his own farming philosophy—is to move people with the taste of his vegetables.

He hopes to become the kind of farmer where parents and children don’t view eating or serving vegetables as a chore, but rather—just as children ask for candy—think, “The vegetables over there are delicious,” or “I want to eat that corn, so please buy some for me.”

“I believe that if I can convey the fun and message of farming through childhood experiences, the fields will continue to be places where vegetables are grown for generations to come. It also makes me happy when people say they’d like to visit the fields again.”

Furthermore, he notes that the current situation—where consumers take cheap vegetables for granted—is certainly not what farmers want, adding, “It’s also important for people to understand the challenges farmers face and change their mindset.”

“I’ve overcome many difficulties, but looking back now, I’m glad I chose farming. If there’s something I can do for others, I’ll do my best,” says Mr. Otake. Shiho, sitting beside him, nods vigorously in agreement. To continue seeing those smiling faces that say, “That was delicious!” they will press forward on their unique path in agriculture, finding fulfillment in their work every day.

The post Hideyo Otake of “Nikkei Farm,” which pursues delicious, seasonal vegetables using farming methods that are gentle on people and the environment / Koriyama City, Fukushima Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.