Located in the center of the Kofu Basin, Chuo City in Yamanashi Prefecture has long been a thriving agricultural region, thanks to its abundant sunshine and mineral-rich water. Here, Yoda Farm has been dedicated exclusively to growing tomatoes for nearly half a century. With the addition of his son-in-law, Takayuki Kunugi, six years ago, the farm continues to strive daily to share the deliciousness of its tomatoes.

The taste of the tomatoes my father-in-law grew

What led Mr. Kunugi to start farming at Yoda Farm was his meeting with his wife, the daughter of the farm’s manager, Katsumi Yoda. When he visited to formally introduce himself before their marriage, he tasted the tomatoes grown by his father-in-law, Katsumi, and was deeply impressed by their deliciousness. However, Katsumi’s remark that “tomato farming ends when your physical strength runs out” made him keenly aware of the reality facing the aging agricultural industry. “I can’t let such delicious tomatoes disappear,” Kunugi resolved. He decided to resign from the agricultural cooperative where he had worked for 13 years and began farming to become the farm’s successor.

Dedicated to tomatoes, with a commitment to quality

For 60 years, Yoda Farm has specialized exclusively in growing “Momotaro Tomatoes.” These large tomatoes are characterized by their perfect balance of sweetness and acidity. While varieties like “fruit tomatoes” with intense sweetness are currently in vogue, Yoda Farm has consistently pursued the cultivation of tomatoes that offer “more than just sweetness.” Yoda Farm’s tomatoes are distinguished by their rich flavor, bursting juiciness, thin skin, and the perfect balance between the flesh and the gelatinous pulp—every detail is meticulously crafted.

Their approach to tomato cultivation—which prioritizes “quality” over mass production—reveals ingenuity cultivated over many years. While a single plant typically yields about 70 tomatoes, they limit the harvest to half that amount, creating tomatoes with a rich flavor that concentrates the umami and nutrients of two tomatoes into a single fruit. Furthermore, to grow tomatoes in conditions as close to nature as possible, they exercise extreme caution in pesticide use and actively work to create an environment that does not hinder the activity of the bumblebees responsible for pollination. Behind this approach of growing a limited selection of tomato varieties lies a commitment to “maximizing the quality of our produce by fully leveraging the experience we’ve accumulated, rather than spreading our cultivation resources across various varieties.” And this philosophy has been passed down from Katsumi to Kunugi, spanning two generations.

What do tomatoes grown using hydroponics taste like?

Yoda Farm, which has been in the family since Katsumi’s predecessor’s time, originally practiced soil cultivation, growing crops directly in the ground. However, this method has the drawback of being highly susceptible to bacteria and pests in the soil, requiring significant costs for disinfection and pesticides as a countermeasure. To produce tastier and safer tomatoes, Katsumi decided to try hydroponics, which was not yet widely adopted in Japan at the time. This method involves circulating a nutrient solution—a mixture of water and dissolved fertilizers—to the plant roots, and its major advantage is the ability to minimize the use of pesticides. However, when he first started hydroponics, there was a strong negative perception that “while the plants grow large when watered, they lack flavor.” Unlike soil, the medium cannot be allowed to dry out, so care must be taken not to overwater; however, by deliberately restricting watering during periods of intense sunlight to induce stress, he brings out the tomatoes’ natural sweetness. Inside the two plastic greenhouses, it gets quite hot in the summer. However, by continuing to let in sunlight without using air conditioning to promote photosynthesis, they produce tomatoes with a sugar content of 5 to 6 degrees Brix—tomatoes that are exceptionally sweet.

“We Want to Deliver Delicious Tomatoes”: Crowdfunding Campaign Launches

“Is there a way to share the deliciousness of these tomatoes, which my father-in-law has grown with such care, with more people?” To further expand his business channels, Mr. Kunugi set up a stall at the Aoyama Farmers’ Market in Tokyo—a venue where farmers from across the country gather—and began selling his produce directly to customers. Although the market attracts many food connoisseurs seeking fresh, delicious produce, he had only about 30 seconds to interact with each customer. “I’m confident in the quality of my tomatoes, and I generate decent sales, but I couldn’t convey the ‘passion’ behind them,” says Kunugi. Was there no way to convey the dedication poured into production? It was under these circumstances that he launched a project on the crowdfunding service “Makuake.”

Makuake is a system where creators present the passion and dedication behind their products, and people who want to support those products or services contribute funds. Yoda Farm’s project began with its first campaign in August 2019, and by the ninth campaign, the total number of supporters had exceeded 3,000, with total funding reaching approximately 24 million yen. For their processed food project on Makuake, they focused on creating “Rare Dry Tomatoes,” which are lightly dried to concentrate their umami while retaining a fresh, juicy flavor in perfect balance. They also launched a variety of other creative products, including “Tomato ‘Mi’”—a new category designed to be used as a versatile seasoning, sauce, or dressing—and “Tomato Koji Curry,” made without water. He developed the products with the help of those around him, refining them through trial and error based on advice from a friend who is a culinary researcher, and even entrusting the packaging design to a high school classmate. Among the processed food project’s offerings, “Tomato Ketchup,” “Tomato Salt Koji,” and “Barbecue Sauce”—which garnered particularly strong support—have grown into popular bestsellers on the Yoda Farm website. Recently, Kunugi happily notes that he often receives casual messages of encouragement from supporters—ranging from comments like “This is delicious” to “How are you doing?”—and feels that his relationship with existing customers has grown stronger since the success of the Makuake project.

Creating products that bring out the natural flavor of tomatoes

Another reason Mr. Kunugi decided to take on the challenge of developing new processed products was the problem of food waste, which was occurring on a massive scale. Of the approximately 10% of the annual production—amounting to 5 tons—that consisted of irregularly shaped produce, the items that could not be sold in the market were, with a heavy heart, turned into fertilizer for the fields. Even though their shape may be imperfect, their flavor potential is still very high. Precisely because he is confident in the quality, he uses absolutely no additives or other unnecessary ingredients during processing, instead devising ways to bring out the tomato’s natural flavor. In 2020, the first collaboration with a company that shared Mr. Kunugi’s passion for reducing food waste was realized. Among the products, the one that garnered the most attention was “Tomato Shio-Koji,” developed in partnership with Yamanashi Meijo—the brewery behind the sake brand “Shichiken”—which combines the brewery’s shio-koji with tomatoes. By blending it with shio-koji in an exquisite ratio, the product highlights the tomato’s natural flavor and has been well-received by supporters and many other users. Another product, “Melt-in-Your-Mouth Tomato Ketchup,” uses not only the koji used in brewing Shichiken but also wine vinegar from Asaya Foods, another local company. By allowing “non-standard” tomatoes to ripen fully and using the equivalent of about 10 tomatoes per bottle, the ketchup boasts a truly outstanding tomato flavor. While working on various collaborative products, the team reportedly always prioritizes their commitment to “making the tomato the star.”

That said, he admits that in his eagerness to come up with novel products, he often received candid feedback that his creations were “too gimmicky.” While innovation is necessary, striking a balance that truly highlights the quality of Yoda Farm’s time-honored tomatoes is essential. Looking back on that period, Mr. Kunugi reflects that he learned a great deal from the product development process.

Amid the hardships faced by farmers

Given the current global climate, Japan faces significant challenges, including a decline in production motivation due to soaring material and utility costs, as well as a dwindling number of farmers resulting from an aging population. Mr. Kunugi witnessed firsthand at the market how these factors have led to a reality where the focus is not on the “quality” of agricultural products but on “quantity,” driven by the pursuit of greater efficiency. For Yoda Farm, which has limited both its crop varieties and production volume in order to maintain high quality, this situation could be described as a headwind. In this context, moving away from the general market—where producers have no control over pricing—and instead selling directly to consumers or through crowdfunding, where they could reflect the true value of their tomatoes in the price, was undoubtedly a highly rewarding initiative. Their crowdfunding efforts even caught the attention of supermarkets within the prefecture, leading to requests for Yoda Farm’s tomatoes. By the spring of 2023, they had succeeded in establishing their own sales channels, relying almost entirely on them rather than the general distribution system.

I want to create opportunities for people to appreciate good food

Mr. Kunugi says he wants to propose more experiential projects that allow him to connect directly with customers. For his most recent Makuake project, he devised an agricultural experience ticket titled “First-Generation Yoda Farm Farmer’s Rights” as a reward. In addition to a harvesting experience where participants can actually do farm work and taste freshly picked tomatoes, the rewards include product discounts and vegetable subscription plans. In addition, he plans to build a café and processing facility, with the goal of offering services where customers can have freshly harvested tomatoes cooked and served on the spot. This marks a shift from online interaction to a new phase where people actually visit the farm in person. Mr. Kunugi’s vision of “letting people experience the reality of farm life” is becoming increasingly tangible.

The value of tomatoes that only Yoda Farm can produce

When choosing tomatoes, consumers likely have a variety of reasons—from taste and cultivation methods to price. Yet, as mentioned earlier, the reason Yoda Farm’s tomatoes continue to be chosen is that they embody the expertise cultivated over half a century and a deep commitment to “creating delicious produce.” Katsumi-san reportedly even traveled overseas in the past to study tomato cultivation. By combining the accumulated experience and skills of such artisans with the influence of communicators like Kunugi-san—who takes on innovative initiatives and challenges like crowdfunding—they are proposing new value for tomatoes.

Issues such as distribution and the shortage of farmers are by no means limited to tomatoes. To address these challenges, Kunugi says he wants to create opportunities for people to connect with the thoughts and feelings of the growers behind the vegetables they eat every day. He wants to convey through his own efforts that safe and delicious products are created only through the hard work and involvement of many different people. He also hopes to show that sustainable agriculture can be built through a new approach that incorporates flexible thinking, without being bound by traditional mass-production and distribution models.

As the value of agricultural products is reevaluated, farmers will prosper, and even higher-quality vegetables will be produced. A future awaits us where this leads to a virtuous cycle of increased domestic food self-sufficiency and a growing number of people entering the farming industry.

The post “Half a Century of Dedicated Cultivation”: A Tomato Farmer’s New Challenge—“Yoda Farm”—/Chuo City, Yamanashi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The “NPO Citrus Sommelier Ehime” was founded with the mission of “bringing Ehime’s citrus fruits into subculture.” In 2020, a group of young citrus farmers led by Shinji Ninomiya, the organization’s chairman, launched the “Citrus Sommelier Licensing System” based on the idea that “it would be interesting to have citrus sommeliers, just like there are wine and vegetable sommeliers.” Since then, this system has served as a catalyst, drawing more and more people into the world of citrus—a world that captivates the more you learn about it.

Why Ehime Prefecture Is Truly the Citrus Capital 

Ehime Prefecture is known as the “Citrus Kingdom,” boasting the highest citrus harvest volume and the widest variety of citrus fruits in Japan—so much so that citrus is the first thing that comes to mind when people think of the prefecture. With unique varieties such as Benimadonna, Kanpei, and Beniprincess, and thanks to a succession of harvests throughout the year, citrus fruits are available in the market nearly year-round, which is why the prefecture is called the Citrus Kingdom.

Citrus cultivation takes place throughout the prefecture, with particularly high production volumes along the entire coastline. Furthermore, Uwajima City, located in the Nanyo region, is the center of citrus cultivation and is also known as the birthplace of mandarin orange cultivation in Ehime Prefecture, where the cultivation of Satsuma mandarins first began. The terraced fields spreading across the steep slopes of the rias coastline are a defining feature of Uwajima City’s landscape.

The Citrus Sommelier Certification Program from Uwajima, a Major Citrus-Producing Region

In Uwajima City, a region renowned for citrus cultivation, Shinji Ninomiya launched the “Citrus Sommelier Licensing System” while running his own citrus farm. Born and raised in Uwajima, Ninomiya comes from a family of citrus farmers dating back to his grandfather’s generation; however, he had no intention of taking over the family business and was working in the apparel industry in Kyoto. However, when his grandfather passed away in his mid-20s, it prompted him to seriously consider taking over the family business. “From the late 1990s to the early 2000s, around the time I was deciding whether to take over the family business, the citrus industry was in a slump, weighed down by the economic downturn. ‘A few years had passed since I took over the family business, and just as I was starting to feel comfortable with farming, I was talking with local farmers of my generation about what interesting things we could do to revitalize the citrus industry and the region. At that time, we got excited about the idea of, “Wouldn’t it be interesting if there were citrus sommeliers, just like there are for wine or vegetables?” That moment became the catalyst for launching the Citrus Sommelier Licensing System,’ says Ninomiya. From there, centered around local citrus farmers, professionals from various fields and citrus enthusiasts who shared our vision came together to establish the NPO Citrus Sommelier Ehime, with the aim of conveying the deliciousness and joy of citrus. They launched the Citrus Sommelier Licensing System.

From a mere luxury item to a subculture

“Citrus fruits come in many varieties, each with its own unique character,” says Ninomiya. “From their beautiful colors and charming shapes to their flavors and aromas, the sound they make when peeled, and the personalities of the growers and the characteristics of their regions—the stories behind them are diverse. That’s where I sensed a subcultural element.” Precisely because these are the citrus fruits Ehime takes pride in, he wants people to be able to choose the ones that taste good and suit their preferences. “I want people to become interested in citrus by learning about the variety of flavors, and I want them to freely share their love for citrus.” These sentiments lie behind the creation of the “Citrus Sommelier Licensing System.”

We train professionals who can fully appreciate citrus fruits through intensive courses in theory and practical skills

The Citrus Sommelier License can be obtained by completing a two-day course and passing the exam. The course consists of a theoretical component, where participants learn the basics of citrus fruits using a textbook, and a practical component involving tasting. The textbook used for the theoretical portion is the “Citrus Textbook,” which Mr. Ninomiya and his team reportedly created through trial and error. It is the industry’s first citrus guidebook. Starting with a definition of “what a mikan is,” it covers everything from the ambiguous relationship between mikans and other citrus fruits, to explanations of citrus classification and varieties, how to eat them, farming methods, sales and distribution, and history. It is said to be enjoyable not only as a textbook but also as a read.

In the practical sessions, we use fresh fruit and juice to hone our ability to assess citrus quality, capture flavors through tasting, and develop the expressive skills needed to convey the appeal of citrus. While there are various methods for assessing quality, the stem provides a wealth of information. By examining color, shape, and size, we can determine sugar content, acidity, flavor intensity, and moisture levels. Sweetness can range from refreshing to thick and heavy, and aromas can vary from vibrant to mellow. Furthermore, participants learn to analyze and appreciate the elements that make up the flavor—such as the balance between acidity and sweetness and the aroma profile—moving beyond a simple judgment of “delicious” or “not delicious.” The ultimate goal is to discover ways to express the appeal of citrus fruits based on what they have learned.

“It would have been quicker if we had simply adapted the content of wine or vegetable sommelier courses, but because we wanted to incorporate what we ourselves felt as citrus farmers, it took time to finalize the course content. The response from those around us has been generally positive, and other producing regions are cooperating as well. Perhaps what was needed was a catalyst to revitalize the stagnant citrus industry,” he says.

To bring the appeal of citrus fruits closer to you

Alongside managing the Citrus Sommelier Licensing Program, Ninomiya and his team are also selling fresh fruit and pure juices through their online store. Their motivation stems from a desire to share the deliciousness and appeal of citrus in a more accessible way. Differences in varieties, and variations in flavor based on region and cultivation methods. As citrus sommeliers involved in production, the team members have spent their days working closely with citrus fruits, putting their unique characteristics and depth into words. The method they chose to share this knowledge with consumers is juice made by simply squeezing the fruit.

They use only citrus fruits grown by the citrus sommeliers themselves. Some juices highlight the distinct character of a single variety, while others blend multiple varieties to bring out a broader range of flavors. The diversity of citrus can be sensed through the way the sweetness develops, the lingering aftertaste, and the differences in aroma. By learning about the background—including differences in growing regions and producers—citrus becomes a deeper and more fascinating subject. Conveying the appeal of citrus through these experiences and increasing the number of people who enjoy it is also part of the citrus sommelier’s mission.

A citrus fruit that feels like my own child, yet is also a part of myself

While initiatives to promote citrus fruits are gaining momentum, the reality is that domestic demand for citrus continues to decline. Furthermore, the environment surrounding citrus cultivation is becoming increasingly challenging year by year. Factors include a loss of flavor intensity due to reduced temperature fluctuations caused by global warming, the need for large amounts of fertilizer as rising temperatures stimulate tree growth, and longer periods of disease and pest outbreaks. There are also challenges to maintaining the industry, such as labor shortages, the lack of successors, and the difficulty of mechanizing operations.

However, Mr. Ninomiya says there is still much that can be done. “Going forward, it’s important to adapt to these changes. This includes exploring cultivation methods that suppress growth and switching to varieties suited to the climate. When people say my citrus is delicious, it feels like they’re affirming me personally. I suppose I project myself onto the citrus. That’s why I want to do my very best with what I can do.” 

I hope that as many citrus sommeliers as possible will go out into the world and make their mark

The Citrus Sommelier Certification Course, held two to three times a year, is so popular that spots fill up in as little as five minutes after registration opens. Although there have been requests to hold the course in various regions, the plan is to continue at this pace for the time being. Incidentally, the pass rate is around 65–70%, and those who pass are awarded a certification. Since the Citrus Sommelier License program began in 2020, over 200 Citrus Sommeliers had been certified as of March 2026, and they are active throughout the country as “professionals who enjoy citrus.” Mr. Ninomiya feels that the community of citrus enthusiasts has been growing as a result of these ongoing efforts. His future goals are to further expand this community and pass on this initiative to the next generation. This unique initiative, characteristic of Ehime—the “Citrus Kingdom”—is steadily yielding results.

The post A citrus sommelier who elevates citrus from a food item to a form of entertainment. Shinji Ninomiya of the NPO Citrus Sommelier Ehime / Uwajima City, Ehime Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Ehime is one of Japan’s leading citrus-producing regions. Among its areas, the Maana district of Yawatahama City is known as the home of the premium Satsuma mandarin brand, “Maana Mandarin oranges.” How did they elevate Satsuma mandarins to the status of a premium citrus fruit? Behind this success lies the tireless effort of the “Maana Citrus Cooperative Sorting Committee,” which has worked to protect and nurture the region through the refinement of cultivation techniques and the enhancement of the brand image.

Overlooking the Uwa Sea, one of the prefecture’s leading mandarin orange-growing regions

The Maajiro and Anai districts of Yawatahama City overlook the Sada Peninsula in Ehime Prefecture, located at the westernmost tip of Shikoku. “Maana” is the collective name for these two districts. It’s a 25-minute drive from the city center. As you drive along the coastline, you’ll soon come upon steep terraced fields. While this may be a common sight for locals, the interplay between the sea and the terraced fields creates a beauty reminiscent of Japan’s traditional landscape.

Maana Mandarin oranges are grown on these terraced fields overlooking the Uwa Sea. Known as a premium variety among Satsuma mandarins, they are highly regarded, particularly in the Tokyo metropolitan area.

The Maana Citrus Cooperative Sorting Association (hereinafter referred to as “Maana Cooperative”), which handles everything from production to shipping, consists of 155 producers and JA staff, led by Cooperative Director Hiramasa Nakai. Most of the producers are natives of the Maana district. The community and the members of the Cooperative work together as one to produce high-quality Maana Mandarin oranges.

Branding Maana’s Satsuma mandarins as “Maana Mandarin oranges”

The history of mandarin orange cultivation in Maana began in 1900 (Meiji 33) with 300 saplings planted from Tachima in Yoshida-cho, Uwajima City—the birthplace of Satsuma mandarins in Ehime Prefecture.

With its rias coastline and terrain characterized by few flat areas and many slopes, this region was unsuitable for general farming. However, its warm climate, abundant sunshine, and good drainage made it an ideal environment for fruit cultivation. Our forebears cultivated the mountains, built terraced fields, and worked tirelessly to establish mandarin cultivation.

The region’s name became known nationwide in 1964 (Showa 39), when it became the first mandarin orange-producing area in Japan to receive the “Emperor’s Cup.” The Emperor’s Cup is the highest honor awarded to particularly outstanding agricultural, forestry, and fisheries producers from across the country. Taking this as an opportunity, the region committed to cultivating even higher-quality mandarin oranges and worked together to build the “Maana Mandarin oranges” brand, including registering it as a trademark.

A unique sweetness nurtured by “Five Suns”

“The Five Suns,” which harness the natural terrain and traditional wisdom. This is said to be the secret behind the sweet, juicy flavor of Maana Mandarin oranges.

In addition to the three “suns” that have remained unchanged since the Meiji era—sunlight, the glimmer of the sea, and the reflection off the stone walls of the terraced fields—recent years have seen the addition of sunlight reflected from white agricultural mulch sheets laid to regulate soil temperature, retain moisture, and prevent fertilizer runoff during heavy rains, as well as reflections from the paved paths within the orchard. By skillfully utilizing these five sources of light to promote photosynthesis, the sugar content of the fruit is maximized.

Strict standards and taste testing by artisans

Shipments of Maana Mandarin oranges begin in late October, with the peak season running from November to December.

The harvested mandarins are transported to a sorting facility, where they undergo a rigorous selection process. State-of-the-art cameras and light sensors are used to measure sugar content, acidity, size, and shape, and the fruit is then graded accordingly.

Finally, a taste test is conducted by experienced professionals. “I consider this the most important criterion,” says Mr. Nakai.

Only fruits that pass these strict selection criteria receive the red seal of approval as Maana Mandarin oranges. The thin skin enveloping the flesh melts in your mouth, and the juicy pulp bursts with flavor—so much so that they are often referred to as “mandarin juice you can drink.”

All-weather multi-drip cultivation that withstands climate change

The Maana District has long been renowned for producing high-quality mandarin oranges thanks to its naturally arid climate, but in recent years, due to a succession of abnormal weather patterns, there has been an increase in years where the flavor of the fruit varies significantly. In particular, when the area is hit by heavy rainfall in the fall, the fruit fails to reach its full sugar content, leading to a decline in quality.

To address this issue, growers have adopted “mulch drip cultivation” (commonly known as “Marudori cultivation”). This method involves laying white mulch over the orchards to block rainwater, ensuring high quality is maintained regardless of climate fluctuations.

A groundbreaking technology with the potential to enable sustainable agriculture

Mulch cultivation is a method in which white mulch is laid over the orchard, with drip tubes placed underneath to provide appropriate irrigation. By monitoring soil moisture levels with specialized sensors, this method increases fruit sugar content while minimizing stress on the trees, and simultaneously reduces acidity.

Stress cultivation is an essential method for increasing fruit sugar content, but conventional methods place a heavy burden on the trees, raising concerns about alternate bearing—where a poor harvest follows a bountiful one—and a shortened tree lifespan.

In contrast, Marudori cultivation is said to “produce high-sugar mandarins by applying mild stress to the fruit while reducing the burden on the trees.” In fact, while the average yield per farm in the Manana district is 4 tons, growers successfully practicing Marudori cultivation consistently record yields of 6 to 8 tons annually. There is also minimal variation in quality, ensuring stable production.

“We minimize fluctuations between good and bad years, ensuring production volume while pursuing flavor. Marudori cultivation makes that possible,” says Nakai, his voice brimming with confidence. He notes that the number of growers adopting Marudori cultivation is increasing year by year.

Expanding Our Product Line to Support the Brand

The Maana Cooperative is also actively developing processed products to deliver the delicious taste of Maana Mandarin oranges year-round.

“We use even fruit that meets shipping standards as raw material for processing, crafting it into the finest mandarin orange juice,” says Sadao Abe, the cooperative’s executive director.

Their flagship product is pure juice. While it is popular for its rich sweetness and aroma that capture the natural flavor of the fruit, behind the scenes lies a story of hard work: it took a long time to develop, and a special production method was created through countless rounds of trial and error.

“People often ask, ‘Why is Maana Mandarin oranges juice so dark in color?’” says Nakai. “This is actually the result of repeated trial and error during development, ensuring that when our product is displayed on store shelves, customers can tell the difference from other mandarin juices at a glance.” By blending juices extracted using different methods, they achieve a product with greater depth of flavor.

“Pachi Pachi” Craft Gin Made with Maana Mandarin Oranges

In recent years, craft gins produced by small-scale distilleries have become popular, and Manaa Cooperative has also taken on the challenge of commercializing a craft gin made with Maana Mandarin oranges. The result is “Hachi°Hachi° (Pachi-Pachi),” developed jointly by “Shunka Bussan,” the official distributor of Mana mandarins, and local sake brewery “Kondo Shuzo.”

It is made by distilling and blending eight botanicals related to the Maana Mandarin oranges—including the fruit, flowers, and new shoots, as well as the fruits of the Japanese holly used in windbreak hedges—separately by ingredient.

The origin of the unique name “Hachi°Hachi° (Pachi Pachi)” comes from the sound made when harvesting mandarins.

In the Maana district, fruit is picked twice to avoid damaging it with scissors. The first cut leaves a slightly longer branch, and the second cut is made closer to the base. The name of this carefully crafted gin was inspired by the distinctive sound unique to the Maana district, where mandarin oranges are harvested with such care.

This ambitious creation, which captures the refreshing aroma and sweetness characteristic of mandarin oranges, won the Silver Award in the Western Spirits (Gin) category at the “Tokyo Whisky & Spirits Competition 2022.”

To preserve the landscape of the terraced fields and ensure that the region’s history as a production area continues for generations to come

Although agriculture in mountainous and hilly regions is generally on the decline nationwide due to factors such as an aging workforce and a shortage of successors, the Maana district has shown exceptional resilience.

The cultivation area managed by the Maana Cooperative was approximately 290 hectares 20 years ago, compared to about 250 hectares today (2025). Through initiatives such as brand development through the cooperative and the introduction of new technologies, the decline in cultivated area over the past 20 years has been limited to just 40 hectares. Furthermore, the rate of decline in the number of farming households appears to be lower than in other regions, with 155 farming households currently supporting the production area.

“I believe that brand development has fostered a spirit among producers, inspiring each of them to take pride in their work,” says Mr. Nakai.

Matching experienced farmers with new farmers

Currently, the Maana District welcomes one to two agricultural trainees each year with the goal of increasing the number of new farmers. Rather than relying on the government, the two believe that the key to shaping the future of the Maana District lies in how the cooperative can actively welcome new farmers.

They are implementing an initiative to recruit producers in their 60s and older who are considering succession planning and match them with trainees. The ideal process involves two years of training under a veteran producer, followed by the eventual succession of that orchard. “Going forward, we want to improve our infrastructure—such as warehouses and orchard roads—to enhance our capacity to accept trainees,” says Mr. Abe.

“By working together in unity—producers and local residents alike—we want to revitalize the mandarin orange industry while competing and learning from other producing regions.”

Nakai’s words were imbued with the pride of a mandarin orange farmer.

The post Preserving the terraced fields of our hometown and carrying on the legacy of Maana Mandarin orange. “Maana Citrus Cooperative Sorting Association” / Yawatahama City, Ehime Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Kiyosato Jam began when its founder relocated to run a pension, eventually creating jams and cordials with unique recipes that resonated widely. President Yoshiki Sanoma attributes this success to “Kiyosato’s distinctive environment,” a place with a history of welcoming pioneers. What drives his ongoing product development?

Jam Making Born from Pension Management

Located in the Moegi Village area of Kiyosato, Hokuto City, Yamanashi Prefecture, at the southern foot of the Yatsugatake Mountains, is Kiyosato Jam Agricultural Corporation. Here, you’ll find jams so fresh and juicy that people say it’s “like eating the fruit itself.”

“We avoid unnecessary steps and let the ingredients’ natural flavors shine,” says Yoshiki Sanoma, President and CEO of Kiyosato Jam Agricultural Corporation.

They continue making jam with the motto of valuing “sincerity” over manufacturing efficiency. Mr. Sanoma established the “Kiyosato Jam” workshop in 2003. It began when he moved to this area in his early thirties and started producing ingredients for the pension business he launched.

Starting a Second Life in Kiyosato

Born in Gunma Prefecture, Mr. Sanoma moved to Tokyo for university and later pursued a career in fashion by attending a specialized school. After graduation, he worked as a designer under a famous fashion designer. While the work was rewarding, he gradually felt stifled by the relentless, fast-paced days of constantly chasing trends.

Longing to work amidst nature reminiscent of his hometown, he decided to pursue the then-booming pension business. While searching for properties around the Yatsugatake area, he encountered Kiyosato and resolved to establish his pension business here.

Interest in Agriculture

Reflecting on those early days, Sano-san recalls starting farming himself because he couldn’t reliably source the ingredients needed for the meals served at the pension.

He started by growing herbs and vegetables, but gradually became deeply immersed in farming. “I started farming because I had no choice but to grow my own ingredients, but it actually worked out pretty well. Since I was already interested, I studied and gradually expanded what I grew.” After much trial and error searching for crops suited to Kiyosato’s soil, he settled on blueberries.

He began cultivating them in earnest as a tourist farm. When he served homemade blueberry jam made from his harvest with meals at the pension, it received overwhelmingly positive feedback from guests. Requests for supplies also started pouring in from nearby hotels, finally prompting him to take the plunge into full-scale product development.

Kiyosato’s Welcoming Environment and the Expanding Jam Business

Mr. Sanoma began developing the processed goods market as a pillar alongside lodging. A pivotal moment arrived in 2003 when he was approached about the construction of facilities within Moegi Village, an initiative conceived by the then-mayor of Takane Town.

“The mayor at the time was an extremely enthusiastic and intelligent person. While the region traditionally focused on dairy farming and its products like milk, he dedicated himself to developing other local specialties and agriculture.”

Creating specialty products beyond milk. To fulfill this mission, Mr. Sanoma entered the jam-making business with a direct recommendation from the mayor. Successfully selected, he expanded the small-scale operation—previously only producing enough for the pension—and established “Kiyosato Jam Agricultural Corporation, Ltd.”Finally, the “Kiyosato Jam” brand, using local Yamanashi fruits, was born. Mr. Sanoma describes this entire process as “something only possible because it was Kiyosato.” “Kiyosato is a town of pioneers, so it had a culture of welcoming outsiders.” Indeed, history shows that residents from villages submerged by the 1938 construction of the Okutama Lake dam relocated to the Kiyosato area and began new settlements.Kiyosato, which developed the region through the harsh work of reclaiming barren land while enduring severe cold and hunger, likely possesses the “culture of acceptance” Sano-san mentions. It was precisely because of this culture, which treated migrants without discrimination, that such a new movement could emerge.

Back then, Takane Town was also an early adopter of “farmstay collaboration,” combining agricultural experiences with lodging. The town mayor established an organization called the Youth Academy, conducting annual study tours to European countries. They learned how to link agriculture to tourism through “agritourism” and observed vegetable and fruit production sites firsthand.”It was an extremely meaningful experience,” recalls Mr. Sanoma, who was a member of the Youth Academy at the time. Inspired by these study tours, Mr. Sanoma began implementing initiatives at his pension that combined lodging with farm activities, such as picking experiences and jam-making workshops.

The Enchanted “Kiyosato Jam”

The most popular product in the “Kiyosato Jam” line is the white peach jam. “While strawberry jam is usually the top seller, white peach is our best seller,” he explains.One reason is that by manufacturing and selling only during the peak season, they can deliver the inherent fresh, juicy flavor of the fruit. Of course, the other varieties in the lineup are also so popular they sell out within the season. The jams, made from carefully selected ingredients, come in 25 different types.

The “Kiyosato Jam,” featuring large chunks of fruit for a satisfying texture, comes with a trade-off. “Preparing the fruit takes half a day, which is inefficient,” he says with a wry smile. While typical jam production might allow for three batches a day, here they can only manage one.The daily process begins with prepping ingredients personally inspected by Sano-san in the morning. His jams have a sugar content of 37 degrees Brix, slightly lower than store-bought varieties. This allows the acidity, aroma, and the depth of flavor from the natural bitterness to shine through, resulting in a jam that highlights the ingredients’ true taste rather than just sweetness.

He uses a unique “vacuum low-temperature concentration” method, taking time to evaporate moisture without using additives like pectin or flavorings to achieve the jam’s viscosity. This process concentrates the ingredients’ flavors, resulting in a jam that is fruity and tastes like “the fruit itself.”

Mr. Sanoma described this entire process as “casting a spell.” Inside each jar of delicious-looking jam lies the magic he arrived at through continuous trial and error, packed tightly within.

A “Japanese Cordial” found only here 

Jam-making began as a side venture to the pension business. While wholesale to retailers and hotel shops was the main focus until recently, requests for product development have increased in the last few years—for jams served at hotel breakfasts and gift jams. “Thanks to the positive response, I truly feel our recognition is gradually growing,” Sano-san answers proudly.

In response, they closed their thriving pension business and now focus solely on jam production. Within this shift, a new product called “Cordial” was developed.

Cordials are relatively unfamiliar to Japanese consumers. Originating in Britain, they are flavored syrups meant to be diluted. They can be enjoyed in various ways: mixed with sparkling water for a non-alcoholic drink, or added to tea or yogurt to savor their aroma and sweetness. Currently, most cordials available in Japan are imported, with very few produced domestically.

“Of course, our best-selling product is jam. But jam-making and fruit processing naturally lead to developing various other products. Cordial is one such example. We enjoy processing and are actively developing new products.”

Since its development, it has grown into a popular product, garnering significant attention as “Japanese cordial.”

The Future of “Kiyosato Jam”

The current challenge for Kiyosato Jam Co., Ltd. is a shortage of workers. Mr. Sanoma himself is getting older, and finding the next generation to take over is proving difficult. Furthermore, many of the farms supplying the fruit are closing down because they lack successors. There’s also anxiety about whether they can continue sourcing the same fruits consistently, due to poor harvests caused by global warming. Yet, even in these tough circumstances, quitting jam-making is not an option for Mr. Sanoma.

“Even so, I still get ideas for things I want to do. I think it’s like being told, ‘You should keep working for the world.’ So, while I can still move, I want to challenge myself in various ways. Making bread that pairs well with jam is my immediate challenge.”

Kiyosato Jam offers a variety of products, including jams, cordials, and bread. At its core lies the desire to create quality goods, to contribute to Yamanashi’s agriculture and tourism, and ultimately, to serve the world. Through trial and error, developing unique methods, and crafting products with sincerity, Sano-san’s journey will likely continue to be embraced by the world.

The post Made possible by the land of Kiyosato: “Kiyosato Jam Agricultural Corporation, Ltd.” / Hokuto City, Yamanashi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Ishinomaki City, Miyagi Prefecture, on the banks of the Kitakami River. In this area, which was severely damaged by the earthquake in the past, a construction company that had been affected by the disaster chose to rebuild through Dutch-style agriculture. The company name “De Liefde” means “De Liefde” in Dutch. The challenge of caring for the people and the land began in 2013 and continues to this day.

Fostering New Hope through Reconstruction

The town of Kamayazaki, Kitakami Town, Ishinomaki City, Miyagi Prefecture, was destroyed by the Great East Japan Earthquake in 2011 and became a no-occupancy zone. De Liefde Kitagami’s challenge began with the desire to “rebuild this place.

We want to be a place where people who want to take on new challenges in agriculture and people who moved to the area after the disaster can gather,” says Mr. Abe, General Manager of the General Affairs Department.

Why a construction company that suffered from the disaster chose “reconstruction through agriculture

De Liefde Kitakami’s predecessor was a construction company involved in thatched roofs. The company was swept away by the tsunami caused by the earthquake, and the land, which had originally been farmland, was difficult to restore due to land subsidence and salt damage. Seeing the land that had been passed down from generation to generation turned into a rubble dump, the company representative was unable to do anything for a while. The turning point came in 2013. A native of Ishinomaki City who works as an agricultural consultant in the Netherlands visited the area.

Creating a sustainable system with Dutch-style agriculture

Dutch-style agriculture is characterized by horticultural facilities that use technology to control temperature, humidity, and CO2 concentration. Furthermore, it specializes in high-yield varieties and maximizes labor and energy efficiency. These mechanisms are realized as profitable agriculture. Upon learning about their highly profitable strategy using cutting-edge technology, they found hope that they could revitalize Ishinomaki and contribute to job creation and population growth, and decided to build the facility.

In 2014, they obtained a subsidy at the timing of the start of the government’s Next Generation Agriculture Support Program, and in 2016, they began full-scale operations. It was the moment when the disaster-affected areas saw the light of recovery.

Tomatoes in Ishinomaki: The Hope of Reconstruction

Tomatoes have long been grown in Miyagi Prefecture, which has abundant sunlight and cool summers. Since the earthquake, however, tomato production in the prefecture has dropped by half due to the flooding of farmland caused by the tsunami. Tomatoes are one of the most popular vegetables in Japan. If we can provide a stable supply of tomatoes even in winter, it will benefit both the growers and the local community. The company also expected that year-round harvesting would be possible through facility gardening.

Achieving both productivity and delicious taste. The reason why restaurants choose De Leaf de Kitakami

The tomato variety grown by De Liefde Kitakami is the “Tomimaru Mucho. It was jointly developed by Japanese and Dutch seed and seedling makers, and combines the sweetness typical of Japanese tomatoes with the high yield of Dutch varieties.

Tomimaru Mucho is also suitable for processing, and is mainly sold to restaurants. The company has gradually developed new customers by explaining the characteristics of Tomimaru Mucho, such as its long shelf life and resistance to water seepage even when sliced. Currently, the company distributes its products to convenience store chains and major hamburger stores.

A Farm that Wins the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries Award, Creating a Virtuous Cycle for People, the Environment, and the Community

De Liefde Kitakami has introduced highly permeable glass houses instead of ordinary plastic greenhouses. 1.1 ha in size is overwhelming, but the structure is also unique. The high ceilings let in plenty of sunlight and improve air circulation, resulting in a yield that is three times higher than that of an average greenhouse. In addition, IT technology has been utilized to achieve stable shipments and improve the working environment. In recognition of their achievements, they were selected to receive the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries Award, the highest award in the production technology innovation category of the 2023 National Awards for Excellent Management Entities.

Easy-to-work, friendly farm design for everyone

Taking advantage of the hydroponic cultivation system, the tomato roots are set high. Under the floor is a rail for work carts, allowing harvesting to be done while standing. The low physical load makes it a safe place for elderly people and female staff to work.

Realization of stable employment that is not affected by weather conditions

Until now, agriculture in Miyagi Prefecture has been affected by the weather, making it difficult to stabilize employment. However, in the glasshouses at De Liefde Kitakami, computer-controlled temperature control enables stable production throughout the year, unaffected by weather conditions. Employment is uninterrupted, and the work style has overturned the conventional wisdom of agriculture.

Wood chips and rainwater circulation. Toward Environmentally Friendly Agriculture

Local wood chips are used for fuel and rainwater is circulated. The company has put in place a system for energy self-sufficiency while reducing environmental impact. In addition, they have succeeded in increasing their winter harvest by 20% in a trial cultivation using LED lights.

Toward the next challenge. Walking with the Community into the Future

In 2021, the “Liefde Terrace” restaurant will open on the premises. While working to reduce food loss, the restaurant has also become a local exchange center where several thousand people visit annually, contributing to the local economy.

Outside the facility, blueberry cultivation using coconut shells as culture soil has also started. In cooperation with farmers in Yamagata Prefecture, the company aims to realize a new recycling-oriented model and the sixth industrialization of agriculture.

Mr. Abe is looking ahead, saying, “Rather than just copying Dutch-style agriculture, I want to further develop it in a way that suits this region. The people who have risen from the disaster have a solid sense of hope in De Liefde Kitakami, which continues to take on the challenge of growing its own roots in Ishinomaki.

The post Hope bears fruit in the disaster-stricken area. De Liefde Kitakami,” creating a place for people to gather through next-generation agriculture / Ishinomaki City, Miyagi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The Amataki-Ondan Terraced Rice Fields in the Ondan district of Kawauchi, Toon City, Ehime Prefecture, designated as a “Connecting Terraced Rice Field Heritage.”The “Hotaru Mai” rice grown here has received high acclaim, including consecutive Gold Awards in the 22nd (2020) and 23rd (2021) editions of the “International Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Competition – International Comprehensive Division.”

Farming to preserve the terraced field landscape

My family home is a farm in Toon City that cultivates rice and shikimi (an evergreen tree used in Buddhist ceremonies). In my youth, I strongly yearned for the city and had no intention of taking over the family business. After graduating from university, I ended up working for the local Toon City government. While working in the Agriculture and Forestry Promotion Division, I became deeply involved in community activities, including the maintenance of terraced rice fields. There, I faced the reality of agriculture declining year by year and the loss of the landscape of the past.Onda is a small village of about 40 households. Its farmland totals just over 10 hectares. After the war, the entire Kawauchi area had about 80 hectares, but currently only about 50 hectares are cultivated. Driven by the desire to “preserve the terraced rice field landscape,” he took early retirement at age 58 and began seriously pursuing rice farming.

Shortly after starting rice cultivation, he had agricultural cooperative staff measure the taste score of his rice. Unexpectedly, it scored a high 88 points. This high score from his first harvest gave him great confidence that the terraced fields of Amataki and Onda were indeed a place capable of producing delicious rice.

Clear Streams and Terraced Fields Nurtured by Forests and Valleys

The Onda terraces possessed all the conditions necessary for growing delicious rice. Located at an elevation of 250 meters, they experience significant temperature differences between day and night and enjoy excellent sunlight. Furthermore, the soil has good water retention properties, making it well-suited for rice cultivation. Above all, the area boasts exceptional water quality.

Right beside the farm lies a small waterfall called Amataki, once a sacred site for rain-praying rituals. Other abundant water features dot the landscape, such as Shirai Falls, Karakai Falls, and Kubo no Fuchi. Nestled in mountains surrounded by broadleaf forests, these sources provide the paddies with pure mountain water rich in nutrients and minerals.A testament to the purity of these streams is Amataki Hotaru no Sato (Firefly Village), located near the terraced rice fields. On summer nights, countless fireflies dance here, offering a profound sense of nature’s abundance.　

The Birth of Hotaru Mai Rice

Despite benefiting from a rich natural environment, rice cultivation in terraced fields is not highly efficient due to burdens like grass cutting and damage from harmful birds and animals. To continue, it was necessary to enhance the rice’s value and establish it as a brand. Named “Hotaru Mai” (Firefly Rice), meaning “rice shaped by the landscape,” it was first entered in 2013 into Japan’s largest international rice competition, the “Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Contest.”This competition evaluates rice’s deliciousness from two perspectives: numerical analysis of moisture, protein, amylose, etc., using specialized machinery; and sensory evaluation of taste perceptions like umami, sweetness, and richness when eaten. “It was sweet. At first, it was nothing,” he recalls of that time. Afterwards, he traveled to the competition’s venue, visited farmers nationwide, and learned techniques through dialogue with many producers.

Transitioning to reduced-pesticide and organic cultivation, leading to a gold medal

“Hoda Ryu Rice” began with conventional farming using pesticides and chemical fertilizers. Through repeated exchanges with farmers nationwide, interest in reduced-pesticide and organic farming gradually grew.Through extensive analysis—including cultivation methods that suppress nitrogen in fertilizers and soil preparation using organic mineral fertilizers—he aimed for delicious rice with low protein content and excellent stickiness. Rice with less protein allows starch to blend well with water, resulting in fluffy, soft grains with a pleasant texture. “I was good at collecting and analyzing data. I absorbed the subtle differences unique to each farmer and refined them in my own way.”

After several years of organic farming, in 2020 and 2021, the “Niko Maru” variety from Sakamoto Natural Farm’s “Hotaru” rice won the Gold Prize in the International Comprehensive Division at the “Rice Taste Analysis and Appraisal Contest.” Following the taste value assessment at the contest, a taste index evaluation measuring the “sticky layer” is conducted.The sticky layer refers to the viscous layer formed on the surface of rice grains when starch dissolves during cooking. Rice with a robust sticky layer exhibits greater luster, stickiness, mouthfeel, and perceived sweetness. “The taste value increased after switching to organic farming and eliminating chemical fertilizers. It didn’t suddenly blossom after going organic; it was gradual. We’ve gotten closer to the flavor we pursued.”

“Hoda Ryu Rice” is rice meticulously crafted for taste, safety, and quality. Quality control extends all the way to the consumer.The rice is milled in a climate-controlled milling room using cold milling and stored year-round in refrigerated warehouses maintained below 14°C (57°F). This prevents condensation from forming during winter due to temperature differences between the interior and outside air. Furthermore, even the rice bran used as fertilizer, which is prone to insect infestation under normal conditions, is carefully stored under temperature control.

JINEN (Nature): Where Nature and People Coexist

Currently, “Hoda Ryu Rice” cultivates four varieties across six brands, divided into two types: “Rice with 80% Reduced Pesticides (compared to Eco Ehime standards)” and “Pesticide-Free Rice · JINEN (Nature)”. Both are grown without chemical fertilizers, using only organic fertilizers that return to the fields, such as straw, rice bran, and rice husk charcoal.

The unique brand “JINEN (Nature)” embodies the desire to cultivate rice alongside all life forms inhabiting this land, including microorganisms and flowers blooming along the field borders. “Rice should grow naturally. Instead of forcibly adding unnecessary fertilizers, we gently supplement only what is lacking. That is our authentic approach to rice farming. We want to produce rice worthy of this landscape,” they explain.

One variety within JINEN, “Ondasennen Rice,” is cultivated using natural farming methods. It employs “single-seedling cultivation,” relying solely on self-harvested seeds and completely avoiding fertilizers and chemicals. Every step is done by hand, truly nurtured by the power of people and nature alone.Due to its mountainous cultivation, the yield is extremely low, about 4 to 5 bales per tan (approx. 1000m²). While modern farming typically yields 8 to 10 bales per tan on flat land, this significantly lower harvest forms the foundation of Sakamoto’s rice-growing cycle.

Rice Farming in Terraced Fields: Restoring Pride to Rural Communities and Connecting to the Future

The reality is that almost no new farmers are starting rice cultivation. Utilizing old, narrowly structured terraced fields as farmland presents many challenges, including the maintenance of irrigation channels. What began as rice farming driven by the desire to “protect this landscape” has now expanded beyond a personal challenge into a hope for the entire region.

Sakamoto Natural Farm Hoda Ryu established the “Hotaru Club,” a rice ownership program, creating a system where people can engage with rice farming from the very beginning. Participation is possible even with small tasks like weeding, allowing people to be involved in rice farming as a side job without needing initial investment or farmland. Participants, especially parents with children, are particularly conscious of creating “a future where children can safely eat rice without worry.”Learning, growing, and eating. Through this experience, they feel that having an environment where rice can be grown is a step toward protecting children’s futures.

“The most important thing is restoring pride to the rural community. We need to be able to take pride in the fact that we are the ones creating this landscape.” To that end, they spare no effort in enhancing the value of the rice grown here.In the “Amadake Onda Terraces,” an environment ideal for growing delicious rice, maximizing the potential of this land’s natural resources holds the possibility of developing a globally competitive rice brand. “It might be the generation after mine that makes it happen. Passing this legacy forward is my dream now.”

In December 2025, the group, previously operating as a production and sales association, incorporated as a company, establishing “Hoda Ryu Co., Ltd.” This move allows the company to aim for business expansion, focusing on broadening sales channels with an eye toward exports, processing agricultural products, and even engaging in satoyama conservation activities. It marks the step into a phase dedicated to passing on the region’s resources to the next generation.

The post 棚田の美しい風景を作る米、「坂本自然農場 穂田琉」／愛媛県東温市 first appeared on NIHONMONO.

“Fuyukoi” is a special apple brand from Iwate Prefecture, featuring only the finest “Haruka” apples that meet stringent criteria for sugar content and honeycore. Available only during the brief start of winter, its rich sweetness and crisp texture offer truly premium flavor.

Iwate: A Diverse Apple-Producing Region with “Original Varieties”

Iwate Prefecture ranks as Japan’s third-largest apple-producing region, following Aomori and Nagano. Leveraging natural conditions like significant temperature fluctuations and rich soil, high-quality apples are cultivated primarily in inland areas.

The first Western apple seedlings were imported to Japan in 1871, shortly after the country opened its doors. The following year, Western apple cultivation began in Iwate Prefecture, making it one of the earliest regions in Japan to engage in apple production.The region focuses not only on productivity but also on quality improvement and variety development. Through collaboration among producers, agricultural cooperatives (JA), local governments, and research institutions, Iwate has created numerous “original Iwate varieties,” such as the “Beni Iwate” with its deep red skin and strong sweetness, and the juicy, large “Ooyume.” One of these is the “Haruka” variety, which serves as the base for the “Fuyukoi” apple.

The Iwate-born apple variety “Haruka”

Haruka was born in 1976 in the orchard of Iwate University’s Faculty of Agriculture and made its market debut as a registered variety in 2002. Its name comes from the grandson of its creator, the late Professor Emeritus Kiyoshi Yokota.It is a late-season variety with yellow skin, known for its abundant honey, rich sweetness, and crisp, juicy texture. However, it also has characteristics that initially hindered its popularity: smaller fruit size and a tendency to develop “rust” – a condition where the skin discolors and becomes rough. As a result, it was considered “unattractive” when first introduced, and few producers initially took up its cultivation.

However, some recognized Haruka’s potential. In 2006, dedicated growers from across the prefecture gathered and established the “Iwate Haruka Research Group” (now the Iwate Fuyukoi Research Group) with fruit-growing organizations. They began working to improve quality and establish cultivation methods, aiming to “develop Haruka into Iwate’s brand apple.”

One of the founding members was Mineo Kumagai of Shimokubo Farm in Morioka City. Having dedicated over 20 years to improving Haruka’s quality and establishing cultivation methods, and serving as chairman of the Iwate Fuyukoi Research Group until 2024, Kumagai reflected on the group’s origins: “While its appearance isn’t great, Haruka’s excellent honey-infused sweetness and high sugar content are major attractions. I wanted to find a way to make the most of that.”

Overcoming Weaknesses with “Bagging”

Members of the “Iwate Haruka Research Group,” who cultivate apples across the vast regions of Iwate Prefecture, grew Haruka in a corner of their respective orchards. Through repeated information exchange and discussions, they tested various cultivation methods. One year, a member accidentally bagged a Haruka tree instead of a neighboring one. Surprisingly, it produced a clean, rust-free yellow fruit.

“Bagging” refers to the cultivation method of placing bags over apples after thinning. This protects against disease and sunburn, maintains freshness and quality post-harvest, and improves “storage life” for longer preservation. Additionally, removing the bags just before harvest to expose the fruit to sunlight promotes coloring, resulting in an even, vibrant hue.

Feeling confident that “this could work,” Mr. Kumagai and his team switched Haruka cultivation from “unbagged” to bagged. As a result, the occurrence of rust and blemishes decreased significantly.

However, bagged apples develop lower sugar content compared to unbagged apples that grow with ample sunlight. To overcome this, they experimented extensively: testing multiple types of bags with different materials and specifications, and drastically reducing the number of fruits per tree to concentrate nutrients on each remaining fruit.After years of effort, they succeeded in growing larger fruit without compromising its inherent flavor. Today, techniques for cultivating high-quality Haruka apples are becoming established, including using specialized bags for bagging and allowing the fruit to fully ripen on the tree before harvest.

“Still, apple cultivation happens only once a year. Even after growing Haruka for 20 years, I’ve only experienced 20 harvests. There might be a more suitable bag, or other better methods—research never ends,” says Kumagai. This relentless accumulation of effort is steadily elevating Haruka’s quality and reputation.

Only the most meticulously selected apples become “Fuyukoi”

Among the Iwate-grown “Haruka” apples cultivated this way, only those meeting specific standards—such as sugar content, honeycore presence, and appearance—are granted the “Fuyukoi” designation.

“Fuyukoi” is a branded apple handled by JA Zen-Noh Iwate. Harvested Haruka apples are individually measured using light sensor sorting machines, selecting only those with “sugar content of 15 degrees or higher,” “honeycore,” and “excellent appearance.” Only these selected apples are shipped as “Fuyukoi.”Furthermore, those meeting even higher standards—”sugar content of 16 degrees or higher and honeycore” and “free of rust spots or blemishes”—become “Premium Fuyukoi.”

The shipping period is late November to December. Named “Fuyukoi” (Winter Love) because they are harvested just before winter, the latest among apples produced in Iwate Prefecture, and their high sugar content evokes the image of sweet love, “Fuyukoi” is gaining recognition year by year and is popular as a gift. It is also handled by department stores and high-end produce shops.

“Haruka is inherently a high-sugar variety that easily develops honeydew. The Haruka we grow averages around 18 degrees Brix, with many exceeding 20 degrees,” says Mr. Kumagai. The typical sugar content for apples is around 13 degrees Brix. Considering this, even Haruka apples not selected for Fuyukoi are sufficiently sweet.

“So what makes Fuyukoi special? Its visual beauty. For personal consumption, even unbagged Haruka with rust spots is fine—I even think it might taste better that way. But when giving them as gifts, you naturally want something that looks beautiful.”

Haruka’s skin is extremely delicate. Even when carefully cultivated with bags to protect it from external stress, bruises or blemishes can sometimes appear. Fuyukoi’s flawless, smooth texture is the crystallization of the grower’s meticulous work.

Adding value through labor

To grow large, high-quality apples, thinning young fruit—known as “fruit thinning”—is essential.Apples rely on leaves for photosynthesis to deliver nutrients to the fruit, making the balance between leaves and fruit crucial. Typically, thinning aims for a ratio of about 40-50 leaves per fruit. For Haruka, however, it’s astonishingly 100 leaves per fruit. By drastically reducing the number of fruits on the tree, nutrients are concentrated, resulting in sweeter, larger apples.

Haruka apples, cultivated through this “select few” approach, are still grown on a relatively small scale with limited production, making them rarely seen in stores. The “Fuyukoi” and “Premium Fuyukoi” grades selected from these are even more scarce.”We want to turn that rarity into value and return as much profit as possible to the growers,” says Kumagai. He explains that the research group was established precisely because they wanted to create a system where “hard work producing excellent fruit is properly valued and leads to profit.”

A Voice for Iwate’s Apple Appeal

As chairman of the Iwate Fuyukoi Research Group, Kumagai actively promotes the apples at events and markets both within and outside the prefecture. “Over the past few years, I’ve really started to feel that Haruka and Fuyukoi are gaining fans,” he says. “More producers are supporting this initiative, and our membership is growing. We want to ride this momentum and bring in even more partners.”

Haruka is a variety born in Iwate, but there are no restrictions on where it can be grown, and it is now cultivated outside the prefecture as well. However, only Haruka apples grown in Iwate can carry the “Fuyukoi” brand name. “Nationally, when people think of apples, they probably think of Aomori or Nagano,” Kumagai says with hope. “I want to spread the word widely that ‘Iwate also has such excellent apples.’ I believe Fuyukoi and Haruka are major selling points for that.”

There are no limits to “making good things”

The apple orchards of Shimokubo Farm spread across the rolling hills overlooking Mount Iwate. Located at an elevation of approximately 360 meters, it is one of the highest apple farms in Iwate. Compared to lower-lying areas, the temperatures are cooler. When the farm acquired this land 40 years ago, they struggled because the fruit didn’t grow large. However, with global warming, temperatures have gradually risen. “Now, we grow better apples than other farms at lower elevations,” Kumagai explains.The higher elevation also means a greater temperature difference between day and night, resulting in apples with a firm, crisp texture,” says Kumagai.

Nevertheless, global warming remains a serious problem. Apples thrive in cool climates, and high temperatures cause various issues like poor coloring, sunburn, and diminished flavor. They also tend to develop less honeycore, which could undermine the brand value of varieties like Haruka and Fuyukoi that pride themselves on this characteristic.

Furthermore, soaring material costs and rising labor expenses are major burdens. Unlike crops like rice, where mechanization is advancing, apple cultivation remains largely manual. Tasks like bagging and harvesting, which require delicate handling of the fruit, must be done by hand, one by one. “If we could mechanize, maybe my son and I could manage it, but that’s not possible. So we have to hire people, and the more labor-intensive it is, the higher the labor costs,” says Kumagai.The environment surrounding apple farming grows harsher each year, with global warming, persistent abnormal weather patterns, and rising production costs all taking their toll.

“I’m completely exhausted. It’s like hanging on by a thread, barely managing to keep going,” he says with a wry smile. Yet he adds, “Even while being swept up by changes in the times and environment, I feel fortunate to have made it this far.” His eyes still burn with passion for apple growing. “This work is enjoyable because I can devise my own methods and experiment. I know there’s still so much I don’t know, and I believe there’s still more I can do. There are no limits to making something truly good.”

To avoid cutting down apple trees

“It would be easy to quit apple farming and just cut down the trees. But then all the years of care invested up to that point would be lost in an instant, and if I ever wanted to get it back, it would take just as much time. That’s why I want to keep going as much as possible. So I won’t have to cut down the apple trees I’m growing now.”

His son Katsuhiko, who runs the orchard with his father, shares this sentiment. “With global warming continuing like this, I wonder if there will come a time when we can’t rely solely on apples. That’s why we’re also growing other crops in separate fields. But I don’t want to give up apple farming. It’s hard work, but it’s still enjoyable.”

“Growing apples is fun,” the Kumagai father and son say in unison. Despite facing various challenges and hardships, their sincere commitment to “producing something better” is what underpins the special flavor of Haruka and Fuyukoi apples.

The post All high-sugar content, honey-filled. The specially selected apple “Fuyukoi” / Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The Soga district of Odawara City, Kanagawa Prefecture, is renowned as a prime plum-growing region. Its “Juro Ume” plums, particularly prized for their thick, tender flesh, are considered the highest grade variety for umeboshi pickling. Mr. and Mrs. Saito Tokutaro continue to uphold the traditional craft of waiting until these plums are fully ripe before harvesting them, pickling them solely in salt, and drying them while exposing them to the night dew. Their proven skills, backed by numerous awards, and their sincere approach attract many devoted fans.

The History of Plums Rooted in Odawara

Odawara City in Kanagawa Prefecture has long been renowned as a prime plum-growing region. During the Warring States period, Hojo Soun utilized umeboshi as military provisions, supporting his soldiers with this long-lasting food source. The plums’ medicinal properties and ability to prevent spoilage also made them indispensable on the battlefield.By the Edo period, umeboshi had spread among the common people for medicinal and culinary use, becoming a staple souvenir for travelers passing through Odawara-juku. Umeboshi, useful for preserving lunch boxes and maintaining health, gained enduring popularity as an indispensable preserved food in daily life.

The Soga Plum Grove and the Bustle of the Plum Festival

Against this historical backdrop, vast plum groves formed in the Soga district of Odawara. The three groves of Soga Bessho, Hara, and Nakagawara are collectively called the “Soga Plum Grove,” now home to approximately 35,000 white plum trees.Plums include ornamental varieties like the deciduous Chinese flowering plum (Hanaume) and edible/medicinal varieties like the fruit plum (Miume). Most trees in this area are cultivated for edible plums, producing fruit processed into umeboshi pickles and plum wine for local distribution.

However, Soga Plum Grove aims to leverage not only the harvest but also the beauty and fragrance of the blossoms as a tourist attraction, hosting a “Plum Festival.” The plum trees in full bloom across the landscape from February to March captivate visitors, linking with local specialty sales and tourism to generate regional vibrancy. This scenery, where plum production and tourism are integrated, truly symbolizes Odawara’s plum culture.

The Odawara-born Juro Ume, recognized by the Agency for Cultural Affairs as a “100-Year Food”

While varieties like Shirokaga, Nanko, and Baigo are cultivated in Odawara, the Juro plum stands out as particularly special.Though not yet widely known nationwide, it is actually considered the pinnacle variety for umeboshi (pickled plums). Its thick, soft flesh and small seeds make it easy to eat, and when pickled, it develops a mellow acidity and deep umami flavor. Many who experience its melt-in-your-mouth texture for the first time are surprised, exclaiming, “There’s a plum like this?”

This plum originated in the 1950s. Selected from native seedlings in Ashigarakami District within Odawara City, it was named “Juro Ume” after Soga Juro, a character from the Soga Monogatari, a military tale from the Muromachi period.Perfectly suited to Odawara’s soil and climate, this plum is truly a regional brand to be proud of. Furthermore, to pass on the history and appeal of these “Soga Umeboshi” to the next generation and promote them widely, they were submitted to the Agency for Cultural Affairs’ “100-Year Food” initiative. They were recognized in the “Traditional 100-Year Food Category: Local Cuisine Continuing Since the Edo Period.”

A Producer’s Nightmare

On the other hand, the Juro plum is also notoriously difficult to handle, earning it the nickname “producer’s nightmare.” Its skin is extremely thin, prone to bruising even from slight contact with branches. Harvesting requires picking each plum by hand, and cushions must be placed in the harvest baskets. Furthermore, flipping them during sun-drying is a nerve-wracking task. Because they are fully ripe, the skin tears easily, demanding constant vigilance until the very end.

Furthermore, the fruit sets inconsistently, leading to years with wildly varying yields. This means producers must remain constantly vigilant, from cultivation through processing. Yet, they persist in cultivating Juro Ume because of its unique flavor profile, unmatched by any other plum. Those who have actually pickled Juro Ume plums are captivated by their tenderness and deep, complex flavor. It’s said that after experiencing this, they declare, “I can only use Juro Ume from now on.”

Proven Excellence, Recognized with Multiple Governor’s Awards

In the Bessho district of Soga Ume Forest, Tokutaro Saito dedicates himself to umeboshi production. Together with his wife, they have preserved the traditional method of making umeboshi using Juro plums. Their reliable craftsmanship is widely recognized locally and has earned high praise over the years.

Saitō’s umeboshi have consistently placed at the Odawara Umeboshi Competition, winning awards in both 2023 and 2024. He has also previously received the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award and the Kanagawa Prefectural Governor’s Award. As a regular top-ranking entrant at the Odawara Umeboshi Competition, his skill and earnest approach are unquestionable.

Points Evaluated at the Competition

The Odawara Umeboshi Competition rigorously judges appearance, including size, uniformity of the plums, skin condition, and color. During tasting, the balance of softness, acidity, and saltiness is evaluated. Mr. Saito’s umeboshi are characterized by meltingly soft flesh and a mellow flavor where the saltiness is perfectly rounded. They are highly regarded not only by judges but also by consumers.

A commitment to refining technique

The competition is not just about results; it’s a stage reflecting the accumulation of daily effort. It demands meticulous attention to detail: how to achieve both softness and uniformity in size, how to harmonize acidity and saltiness. Mr. Saito states, “I’ve exhausted all possible innovations. Now it’s just about continuing without cutting corners.” While lacking flashiness, it is precisely this accumulated experience and sincere work that leads to recognition.

A Foundation Built Over 10 Years as a Plum Farmer

Saitō Tokuo’s family farm cultivated plums, mandarin oranges, and kiwis. A large soy sauce brewery stood next to their home, immersing him in food and fermentation culture from childhood.

After entering the workforce, he pursued a career as a chef. However, his father passed away early, leading him to decide to take over the family business in his late 40s. It was at this point he began seriously engaging in agriculture. In reality, he has only been fully dedicated to farming for about 10 years. Nevertheless, he shifted to a life centered around the fields, cultivating primarily plums, along with Kanagawa Prefecture’s “Harumi” rice and the “Hayward” kiwi, renowned for its excellent balance of sweetness and acidity, adapting to each season.

Family and Commitment Supporting the Farm

After his transition, he has continued his journey alongside his mother and wife, sharing the work and tending the fields together.There was a period when he worked as a chef during the week while helping with farm tasks, but since becoming a full-time farmer, his days revolve around checking the weather forecast and planning his work accordingly. He has a particular dedication to pruning, which improves sunlight exposure and airflow to prevent pests and diseases. He finds great satisfaction when his pruning yields good fruit. Though his history as a farmer is still short, his experience in the food industry and his family’s support form a strong foundation for Mr. Saito’s farming.

Capturing the moment of perfect ripeness: Drawing out the flavor of Juro plums with salt and sun

Saitō’s approach to making umeboshi begins with a unique dedication right from harvest. He meticulously gathers only plums that have ripened to the point of nearly falling from the tree naturally. The fruit, turning from yellow to orange and beginning to release its fragrance, has soft flesh that yields melt-in-your-mouth umeboshi. Judging this point is no easy task, requiring daily observation of the orchard.As they are highly susceptible to rain and wind, even the slightest timing discrepancy directly impacts quality. Mr. Saito’s approach is to never cut corners here.

Traditional flavor with 18% salt content and summer sun drying

After harvesting, the plums are carefully selected, coated in salt, and pickled under a weight.The salt content is kept at 18% as a standard, adhering to the traditional method that balances preservation and flavor. The “white umeboshi,” finished with salt alone, is a serious challenge with no room for compromise, unlike the mellow-tasting umeboshi made with added honey or other ingredients. Extracting the softness of the flesh and the mellow acidity requires judgment backed by experience.

After the rainy season ends, the next step is sun-drying. Saito-san places great importance on “Doyou-boshii” drying, where the plums are exposed to the night dew for three days and three nights.The repeated exposure to strong daytime sunlight and nighttime humidity softens the skin and concentrates the umami in the flesh. The drying process requires turning each plum over individually, a nerve-wracking task for the Juro plum, whose skin is prone to tearing. Still, Mr. Saito insists, “This extra effort determines the flavor,” and continues to uphold the traditional method.

Characteristics of the Finished Product

The finished umeboshi are characterized by a melt-in-your-mouth softness and uniformly large, plump plums. The acidity is mellow, the umami is richly pronounced, and the saltiness is rounded into a deep, complex flavor. It’s precisely this assured quality that leads many who taste them to agree: “Nothing but Juro plums will do.”

The Premium Brand ‘Unjou’ – Only a Few Kilograms Certified from 2 Tons

Mr. Saito’s umeboshi are also selected for the Odawara City-certified regional brand ‘Unjou’. The standards are so strict that even after pickling 2 tons, only a few kilograms from his family’s batch are certified, meaning only a very small portion of the umeboshi are chosen. The conditions are rigorously checked: the fruit must be at least 4L size (42mm diameter), have a uniform shape with a clean, taut skin, possess beautiful color, and deliver a reliable taste.Salt content is another key criterion. “Then there’s the salt content,” Mr. Saito explains. “We pickle them at 18%, and they must finish below 20%. They absolutely must be under 20%.” He strictly adheres to this standard. Ujō-certified umeboshi are sold individually packaged as a premium product, priced around 300 yen per plum. Being selected this way is also a badge of honor, an achievement only a limited number of farmers within the city can attain.

Pride Spreading with the Community

Once certified as ‘Unjō’, the umeboshi are sold as the city’s official brand in department stores and elsewhere, increasing consumer exposure. This isn’t merely sales promotion; it enhances trust in Odawara’s agricultural products and builds pride for the entire region. Mr. Saito himself strongly feels that “my umeboshi represent the region” and carries a sense of responsibility to pass this legacy on to the next generation.

A Future Built on Each Plum’s Dedication

Saito’s farming journey has been walked alongside his family’s support. The experience and ingenuity accumulated over the years have forged the reliable techniques that draw out the charm of the Juro plum. His traditional white umeboshi, pickled only in salt, delivers a finish that perfectly preserves the flesh’s softness and deep umami. Served alongside freshly steamed hot rice, it makes you unable to stop eating.”I can’t do anything flashy, but continuing earnestly is what matters,” says Saito, infusing each and every plum with sincerity. It is this quiet passion that will continue to be the driving force supporting Odawara’s plum culture.

The post Consecutive recipient of the Governor’s Award. Juro Umeboshi made by Tokuo Saito, renowned for its melt-in-your-mouth flesh / Odawara City, Kanagawa Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Seri (Japanese parsley) has long been an indispensable part of Japanese cuisine and is used in spring dishes such as shichigusa-gayu (rice gruel with seven herbs). Natori City in Miyagi Prefecture is famous for Sendai Seri. Takahiro Miura, the representative of “Miura Noen,” is the driving force behind the spread of “Seri Nabe,” a Sendai/Miyagi specialty. The Seri grown by Mr. Miura are in great demand by restaurants, and are hard to find. What is the reason why “Seri nabe” has become a representative gourmet dish of Sendai?

Sendai Seri” has been grown in the soil of Natori City for 400 years.

Production of Seri started in Natori City about 400 years ago, and people in Sendai used to eat it as Zoni or Nanakusa-gayu (rice boiled with seven herbs). Seri has been grown in this area because the soil is suitable for its cultivation. According to Mr. Miura, the soil is suitable for growing lotus root and kuwai, which are grown in marshy areas where “water comes out when the soil is dug a little. Mr. Miura makes the most of such blessed soil and practices agriculture that is close to nature.

Connecting Nature and People as a “Translator of the Land

As a seri farmer, there is one thing that Mr. Miura values most. He makes sure that his produce arrives on the plates of those who eat it in good condition.

He says, “I don’t want to just sell them and be done with it. I always think that I have to be the most demanding customer. The role of a farmer is to be a “translator” of the soil, ecosystem, and water. I try to verbalize what kind of creatures and plants exist in the land,” says Miura calmly.

Miura believes that conveying the value of things rooted in the land is the meaning and value of being a farmer, and that he is a link between the past and the future.

Aiming for Nature-Positive Cultivation

Mr. Miura’s goal is to cultivate his crops in a nature-positive manner. This means reducing the negative impact of human activities on the natural environment and promoting the restoration and diversity of ecosystems.

He does not use pesticides or chemical fertilizers, but instead incorporates organic matter to create an environment that pleases the creatures in the soil, such as Japanese stoneworms and gengorou (Japanese gengorou). The more organisms that are introduced, the richer the soil becomes, which in turn leads to tasty crops. Organic fertilizers used include fermented grouper, soybean oil meal, and chicken manure. Although chicken manure is fast-acting, it tends to be high in phosphoric acid, so he increases the use of fish meal and other amino acid-based fertilizers to maintain a good balance.

Careful manual labor at Miura Farm

The cucumber harvest season is from September to May. When the sprouts turn green and grow to about 50 cm in length, it is time to harvest. The farmers enter the rice paddies wearing waterproof ties and pull out the celli one by one by hand, then rinse off the mud and begin shipping. After harvesting, yellow or damaged leaves are sorted out. Only about 40% of the cherries are actually shipped. The remainder are all omitted from the sorting stage. I try to produce only what I would like to eat myself, thinking of the faces of the people who will eat it,” he says.

Local ingredients take center stage. The Origin of Seri Nabe

Speaking of nabe using Japanese parsley, “Kiritanpo nabe” in Akita is well-known. However, the main ingredient is kiritanpo, and seri does not appear in full force. In Sendai, however, the star of the Seri nabe is the Sendai Seri.

Mr. Miura invented this “seri nabe” about 20 years ago. Although Sendai is famous for its beef tongue, sasakamama, hagi no tsuki, and zunda, many of the ingredients are not from Miyagi Prefecture, so he wanted to create a specialty using local ingredients.

A unique Miyagi specialty that took shape through collaboration with chefs

At the time, celeri was eaten mainly by the stem, and the leaves and roots were often discarded.

But all parts are delicious. So I thought it would be nice to have a dish where you can taste the whole thing,” he says.

After consulting with the owner of Inaho, a kappo restaurant near Sendai Station, Mr. Miura developed “seri nabe” around 2003 to 2004. The dish gradually spread, especially among restaurants in Sendai, and gradually became established as a winter delicacy.

It was also the time when social networking services were becoming popular, and he made sure to put the Seri in heaps and put the roots on top to draw people’s attention to the dish. He says, “You can’t tell what it tastes like unless you eat it. But if you can get people interested in the appearance, you can create opportunities,” says Miura.

Tasting all aspects of the Japanese parsley, from the leaves to the roots

One of the main characteristics of seri nabe is that the roots are eaten. Organically grown Seri have a distinct sweetness and aroma at the base of the stem and near the roots, and when added to the nabe, their delicious flavors blend together perfectly. Until then, people in Sendai had never eaten the celeri root, but as more and more people became aware of its deliciousness, it has become the symbol of “Sendai celeri. The tasty parts also vary with the season, with the roots in fall and winter and the sprouts in spring.

As for meats that go well with “seri nabe,” the restaurant recommends chicken and duck, as well as fish and gibier. Miura says that there is no set rule for the broth, and that the fun part is being able to compare different restaurants.

Seri-nabe culture spread after the earthquake

At first, seri nabe gained a reputation among local “foodies” for being “delicious. However, it was not until the Great East Japan Earthquake that it became widely known. In support of the recovery efforts, many people began to ask for the “Seri nabe” to be paired with Miyagi sake. Since many other dishes relied on ingredients from outside the prefecture, the use of locally produced Seri was a significant contribution to the local economy. The use of locally produced Seri was also a major factor in promoting awareness of Seri nabe, as visitors to the disaster-affected areas were encouraged to eat local food and show their support.

Mr. Miura believes that “the original taste of Seri can be conveyed only in this region. Therefore, with a few exceptions, sales are limited to stores in Sendai City. He says, “Getting people to eat it here will ultimately help to revitalize the local economy.

Over the past 20 years, he has doubled the price of his products. Connecting Local Agriculture to the Future

Thanks to the popularity of “seri nabe,” demand for seri in Miyagi Prefecture has increased over the past 20 years, doubling its price. In fact, according to data provided by the Miyagi Agricultural Cooperative, in 2007, shipments totaled 622 tons and the value was 490 million yen; in 2019, despite shipments of 345 tons, the value was over 550 million yen. It can be seen that the amount of shipments has halved due to the aging of producers and other factors, yet the value of these shipments has risen.

This has led the younger generation to choose seri farming as a career, which is helping to solve the shortage of successors.

Miura says, “I think this is an example of how important local connections can be made if the producer, distribution, and the place where the food is consumed are well connected. And by incorporating local gastronomy, or the climate, history, and culture of the region into the cuisine, this example can be made in many different regions. Just as the success of “seri nabe” has doubled its price, Miura offers hope that there is a better future if we delve into the culture of our own region.

Raising the Next Generation of Seri Farmers and Revitalizing Sendai

Mr. Miura’s dream is to increase the number of Seri farmers and expand environmentally friendly farmland while protecting wetlands. He also hopes to create a platform and textbooks that will help the younger generation enter the farming industry and serve as role models. We will also continue to educate the younger generation, such as through nutrition education.

Mr. Miura has continued to promote “seri-nabe” and has made it a Miyagi specialty. He will continue to serve as a role model for regional and local gastronomy.

The post Seri Nabe” Revitalizes Sendai. Takahiro Miura, Representative of Miura Noen / Natori City, Miyagi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Shinobu Kanda of “Aizu Inawashiro Kanda Farm” is striving to grow the best rice in Japan in Inawashiro Town, Fukushima Prefecture, where beautiful rice paddies spread out. After repeated trial and error, in 2024, he was awarded the highest prize, the “Gold Prize in the International Comprehensive Category,” at the 26th International Rice and Food Taste Analysis Contest. What is Mr. Kanda’s rice cultivation that made his dream of becoming the best in Japan come true?

The Last Paradise for Rice

Inawashiro Town, where Aizu Inawashiro Kanda Farm (hereafter, Kanda Farm) is located, is one of the most scenic areas in Japan, surrounded by Mt. Despite its elevation of more than 500 m, vast rice paddies are spread all over the area, blessed with abundant melted snow from the Bandai Mountains and dotted with rice fields with organic soil. It is also known as a heavy snowfall area with ski resorts, and since the statistics began, they have not observed a single extremely hot day. Kanda says with a smile, “This area, with its extreme temperature differences, may be the “last paradise” for rice now that global warming is advancing.

From Salesman to Farmer and from Wholesale to Direct Sales

After graduating from university, Mr. Kanda built a career as a salaried worker, but the turning point for him was the sudden death of his brother, who had taken over the family business. Following in his brother’s footsteps, he started farming in 2011 at the age of 30 to support his parents, who ran a farm and a guest house, but one month later the Great East Japan Earthquake struck. The earthquake caused extensive damage to agriculture, and the price of rice plummeted due to harmful rumors. In his search for a way to overcome the current situation, Mr. Kanda decided to switch to direct sales, taking advantage of his experience as a salesman. He began by thinking that the time would come when he would have to sell rice himself, since prices to JA and other wholesalers had dropped so dramatically that sales had plummeted. However, sales were low at first, and we realized that we needed to build up our quality and brand to be chosen by consumers,” he recalls. So he set a goal: to win an award at a rice competition by the age of 40, 10 years from now. This is where his challenge to become the best in Japan began.

Incidentally, the “International Rice Taste Analysis Competition,” for which Mr. Kanda won the gold medal, is a “rice competition” sponsored by the Association of Rice and Taste Analysts. In 2000, when the only mainstream method of testing rice was the “grading test,” the competition was launched to focus on the taste of the rice and to encourage the “revival of rural areas, agriculture, and rice farming,” which was in decline. The first competition started with less than 400 entries, but it has now grown into the world’s largest rice competition with a total of 5,000 entries and co-sponsorship with numerous local governments. Since the 10th edition, the competition has become an international event, and the rice of the winners of the competition has been highly acclaimed both in Japan and abroad.

Accumulating data through test cultivation of more than 10 patterns each year

In order to promote self-taught research, the first step is to conduct 10 patterns of test cultivation each year. He worked to improve the quality of the rice by changing the variety, cultivation method, amount of fertilizer, timing of harvesting, and other factors. The reaction from those around him was mixed, with some saying, “The ears haven’t appeared yet in Mr. Kanda’s rice fields. The test rice was then tested for eating quality, and the results were compared to the rice that had been harvested. The best lots of test rice were selected by measuring the taste with a taste meter and eating the rice, and in the following year, more than 10 more test cultivation patterns were tried. They continued to accumulate data through this unique test cultivation and established a cultivation method that they were satisfied with.

He is grateful for the encounters he has had. Making dreams come true by carving out your own path.

The people he has met through rice cultivation have also had a great influence on him and given him good fortune. In Minami Uonuma, the largest rice-producing region in Japan, I have a rice-growing mentor. After meeting him at the competition, I visited him every year and he taught me every detail about fertilizer, rice planting, and harvesting time. I have also continued my training visits to farmers who have won the top prize in Japan and exchanges with rice farmers from all over the country throughout the years,” he said happily. One of Mr. Kanda’s great strengths is his ability to use the communication skills he developed as a salesman and actively go out to learn and absorb good rice farming practices.

Premium rice “Yudai 21” gracing dining tables

The premium rice “Yudai 21” has been carefully cultivated through more than 10 patterns of trial cultivation. This “miracle rice” variety, which was developed as part of a development project at Utsunomiya University, is characterized by its stickiness, strong umami, and sweetness. Mr. Kanda has been working on this variety, which is recognized by rice farmers who have won the top prize in Japan in a competition, and has been aiming to become the best in Japan. In Inawashiro, where the altitude is high and the temperatures are low, we mainly grew Hitomebore, which is resistant to cold damage, but through trial and error, we succeeded in designing a fertilizer and cultivation method that suited the land. Yudai 21″ has the texture, graininess, feel, and presence as rice that I value.

Kanda Farm’s rice harvest began with glutinous rice, followed by Hitomebore and Yudai 21. Direct sales were low when they first started, and sales continued to be difficult, but the rice was well received by those who purchased it, and repeat business increased. Furthermore, the company became widely recognized for its award-winning products and began to achieve its sales goals. The product’s delicious taste, which remains unchanged not only after cooking but also over time, has gained a reputation for popularity, and the product is sold out every year.

Farming is a creative job. His goal is to be number one in Japan for five consecutive years!

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Kanda Farm’s “Yudai 21” won the highest award, the “Gold Prize in the International General Category,” at the 26th International Rice and Food Taste Analysis Competition held in 2024, which boasts the largest number of entries in Japan. Mr. Kanda was 44 years old. Having finally achieved the top prize in Japan, Mr. Kanda’s next goal is to win the top prize in Japan for five consecutive years. I believe that if you stop after winning an award, there is no progress,” he said. It is important that I am satisfied with my work, so I will continue to challenge myself every year and aim to win the award for five consecutive years. The reason why five consecutive years is so important is that this competition will be held in Fukushima Prefecture for three consecutive years starting in 2026. For that reason, I want to always be a challenger. Agriculture may seem like a simple job, but when you have a clear goal, it is very creative, and there is no other job so interesting,” he says, finding great satisfaction in the work.

The strict settings of rice milling machines are also the secret of good taste.

Mr. Kanda is currently conducting as many as 30 test cultivation patterns and is very particular about rice milling. He says that normally, rice would be cleaned by passing it through a color sorter multiple times, but because he does not want to damage the rice, he only passes it through the machine once to judge it strictly. By setting the machine’s line strictly, he is able to remove “cloudy white,” which is a milky white color among normally clear rice grains, and “belly white,” which is a cloudy white color on the belly of the grains, resulting in delicious rice with no cloying taste. Cloudy white and white belly grains do not cause taste problems when eaten, but they are caused by weather conditions (high temperatures, lack of sunlight, etc.) during growth, which are considered insufficient starch in the rice and cause the rice to become soft.

He states clearly, “What we had set strictly for entering in competitions has been adapted for regular sales, resulting in ideal, tasty rice.”

Rice that aims to be the best in Japan” and “the ultimate everyday food” are the two pillars of the company’s business.

He says that weed control is important in challenging the potential of “Yudai 21” through organic cultivation. In order to promote photosynthesis, he has to plant fewer seedlings than in “conventional” farming, where chemical fertilizers and pesticides are used to increase yield and prevent pests and weeds, and he has to take extra measures against weeds. Farming is my calling, so I don’t consider it a hardship,” he says. I think I shine brighter than when I was a salesman, and it is a job I can be proud of for my children,” says Kanda, who gazes out at the rice paddies with his beloved family.

Since taking over as the fifth generation, he has been cultivating rice with two pillars, one of which is “aiming to be the best in Japan. The other is “the ultimate everyday food” that is reasonably priced and fills the stomachs of even children in their prime. While aiming to be the best in Japan, the company is sure to continue to bring happiness to everyday dining tables.

The post Pursuing delicious rice to eat, Shinobu Kanda of “Aizu Inawashiro Kanda Farm” shines as Japan’s best／Inawashiro Town, Fukushima Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.