Yusuke Kawata of “Omishima Minna no Winery” moved to Omishima in Ehime Prefecture on his own to grow grapes and make wine. Having traveled across the country from north to south to study winemaking at various wineries, Kawata’s goal on Omishima is to create wines whose flavors capture the island’s unique charm.

I moved to Omishima after sensing its potential as a wine-producing region

Mr. Kawata, who was interested in winemaking, attended a university in Yamanashi Prefecture—a major hub for Japanese wine—and spent his college years visiting renowned wineries across the country to gain practical experience. Shortly before graduating, he had the opportunity to participate in the “Project to Revitalize Omishima,” launched by architect Toyo Ito, which sparked his interest in winemaking on Omishima.

Ito, who has won numerous architectural awards both in Japan and abroad and enjoys worldwide acclaim, is also a figure who has actively engaged in regional revitalization beyond the realm of architecture. His vision—to utilize the island’s landscape and resources to foster new industries and attract people—resonated deeply with Kawata.

High-quality grapes are an essential prerequisite for winemaking. Kawata realized that Oshima’s climate closely resembles that of Katsunuma in Yamanashi Prefecture—Japan’s premier wine-producing region—and, convinced that this land would surely yield excellent grapes, he decided to embark on winemaking with Mr. Ito and his team.

“The scenery of the Seto Inland Sea is truly magnificent. It’s very similar to Shizuoka, where I was born and raised—the sea is close by, it feels wonderful, and the people who live here are kind. I wanted to try growing grapes and making wine here.” In 2015, Kawata moved to Omishima on his own. He leased abandoned farmland—which had become a challenge for the island—planted grapevines, and began cultivating grapes.

The constant trial and error is challenging, but it’s also fun

Although he has a deep knowledge of wine, grape growing was a first-time challenge for Mr. Kawata. He began by consulting local farmers who knew the land intimately to select high-quality vineyards suitable for grape cultivation. “The soil on Omishima is sandy loam formed from weathered granite, which drains well and is ideal for growing grapes. However, it also has poor water retention, so we have to take that into account. “I’m working on this while learning various techniques from local farmers, such as adding compost to activate the soil’s microorganisms,” says Kawata. His commitment to using locally sourced fertilizers stems from his desire to preserve the unique character of the land. He also values grape cultivation that is deeply rooted in this region, going so far as to handcraft the materials for his trellises with the help of a local shipyard.

We grow a variety of grape varieties, including the popular Chardonnay, Muscat Bailey A—the first variety developed in Japan—and Albariño, which originates from coastal regions of Spain and Portugal where the climate is similar to that of the Seto Inland Sea. “I chose Chardonnay because it’s grown all over Japan, so I thought it would be easier to discern the terroir. Koshu is also a famous variety, but I felt I might be too constrained by its name, so I’m not growing it at the moment. I’m experimenting with various varieties—looking for ones that are disease-resistant, high-yielding, and well-suited to the island—but it’s going to take quite some time to find the right answer,” he says. Both cultivation methods and variety selection are a constant process of trial and error.

Wines raised on the island, crafted at a small winery by the sea

The grapevines planted in 2015 bore fruit for the first time in 2016, but unfortunately, the entire crop was devoured by wild boars, so the following year, 2017, marked the long-awaited first harvest. The harvested grapes were vinified at a winery outside the prefecture, resulting in the birth of Omishima’s first-ever wine—a truly historic milestone. Furthermore, in 2019, a winery was established on the grounds of “Omishima Ikoi no Ie,” an accommodation facility renovated from a former elementary school. This made it possible to produce wine that is 100% Omishima-grown in both name and reality.

Despite various design constraints, Mr. Kawata poured everything he had learned into the winery, striving to incorporate as many of his personal preferences as possible. One such feature is the gravity flow system, which utilizes the elevation difference to move raw materials to tanks and aging vessels. He explains that this method places less strain on the grapes than using pumps, allowing their natural flavors to shine through. For the tanks, after carefully weighing the pros and cons of options such as enamel, resin, and concrete, they ultimately opted for custom-made stainless steel tanks from Slovenia. They also introduced French oak barrels, both five-year-old and three-year-old. While new barrels impart a strong woody aroma, the flavor becomes milder with use, deepening the harmony with the wine. Selecting the right barrels based on their age-specific characteristics is another of Mr. Kawata’s key commitments.

First, a wine that more people will enjoy

Mr. Kawata aims to create “truly Japanese” wine. “Rather than striving to meet Western standards, I want to cherish the flavors that emerge from Japan’s climate and soil, using grapes grown right here in Japan. I believe there is genuine value in the ‘truly Japanese’ wine that results from this approach. The lightness that was once described as ‘like water’ is, when you look at it another way, a gentleness that complements any dish. It’s unpretentious and comes alive at the dinner table. That, I feel, is what a ‘Japanese-style’ wine is all about,” he says.

A pleasant life on Omishima, surrounded by grapes and wine

It has been 10 years since Mr. Kawata moved to Omishima. While there have been significant changes in grape cultivation and winemaking, he says these past 10 years have also been a whirlwind of changes for him personally.

“I came to Omishima alone, but then I met my wife, we got married, and we had a child. It’s been a decade in which the meaning of my life shifted from ‘coming here to grow grapes and make wine’ to ‘living here.’ Even though I sometimes feel a bit of inconvenience regarding infrastructure and such, every day is fulfilling, and I am truly satisfied with my life on Omishima,” he says.

The island’s current population is approximately 5,000. While the original resident population is on the decline, the number of people moving to the island from elsewhere is reportedly increasing. The reasons for moving vary from person to person, but many cite a desire to live in the Seto Inland Sea, a wish to contribute to the island’s revitalization—such as through the Regional Revitalization Corps—or a decision to settle here after falling in love with the place during a visit. Even without moving permanently, some people maintain a dual-residence lifestyle, keeping their primary address and job elsewhere. “I wonder if the number of people leaving the island will eventually be overtaken by the number of people moving in?” Kawata says with a laugh.

Wines from a small island in the Seto Inland Sea

While Omishima has many charms, it also faces its share of challenges. Adapting to the climate changes caused by global warming in recent years is a serious issue. In particular, the summer of 2024 brought life-threatening heat, forcing both people and the grapes to struggle just to survive.

Furthermore, according to Mr. Kawata, neither the grapes nor the wine have yet reached a satisfactory level in terms of quality or technique. “I haven’t yet established what ‘the taste of Omishima’ means to me,” he says. “So, my first priority is to clarify that. My goal is to create a wine that expresses the atmosphere of Omishima—a wine that is approachable and full of depth, one that allows you to feel the sea and the wind of Omishima.”

His immediate goals are to produce wines with a flavor he finds satisfying and to get the islanders—who aren’t accustomed to drinking wine—to try their wines. Beyond that, winning an award at the Japan Wine Competition is his primary objective, and eventually, he hopes to compete in international competitions. Mr. Kawata’s dreams continue to expand.

The post Our goal is to create wines that capture the essence and atmosphere of the Seto Inland Sea. “Omishima Minna no Winery” / Imabari City, Ehime Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Okayama Prefecture is famous for its fresh grapes such as “Muscat of Alexandria” and “Pione”. Niimi City, located in the northwestern part of the prefecture, has long been an active grape-growing area. Domaine tetta” was one of the first to start growing grapes not for fresh eating, but for wine, and is engaged in winemaking. We interviewed Mr. Ryuta Takahashi, the president of the company.

From a different industry to the wine industry

Ryuta Takahashi was born and raised in Niimi City, where he ran his family’s construction business.

The turning point for him came in 2005, when he came across a former vineyard that had been abandoned in the Tetta district of Niimi City. The previous owner of the land, with his diligent staff, had been working hard to cultivate the grapes and had produced very tasty grapes. It was a waste of a good vineyard. It is a waste of a vineyard that produces good grapes.

His new challenge began with his concern that the vineyards he had grown accustomed to as a beautiful local landscape had fallen into disrepair, and his wish to once again utilize this land that grows delicious grapes as a local resource. In researching the land, he learned that it had limestone soil suitable for winemaking, similar to that of Champagne and Chablis, the famous wine regions in France. In 2009, he established “tetta Co., Ltd.” with the aim of revitalizing abandoned land, believing that if he could cultivate grapes for wine, he could make the most of this land, which is a local resource. In 2010, with the help of friends who share his passion, he began cultivating grapes for wine.

He had no experience in viticulture, let alone farming. He had no knowledge of wine. I was a complete novice. It was reckless, now that I think about it,” he recalls with a laugh.

For the first few years after the establishment of the company, he only cultivated grapes and outsourced the winemaking to a winery in Yamanashi Prefecture. The grapes were harvested in the evening and loaded onto trucks, which Takahashi himself drove all night to bring to the winery.

The resulting wine was named “tetta,” which is the name of the region, with the intention of taking care of the land.

A winery that people want to visit

In 2016, the winery started its own winemaking. The winery has been a dream of Takahashi’s since its establishment: to become a winery that handles everything from grape cultivation to vinification and bottling in-house.

In establishing the winery, Mr. Takahashi had the following in mind: “I want people to see the environment in which the wines are produced and the winemakers. To do so, the winery must be a building that people will want to visit.

The result is “domaine tetta,” a stylish concrete winery that suddenly appears in the middle of a mountain of vineyards.

A place where people can feel that “wine is born here.

From the café, where wine tasting and sales are conducted, visitors can see the winery through the glass, and out on the terrace, they can enjoy a panoramic view of the vineyards. The winery is a place where you can really feel that wine is born here.

Takahashi recalls the day the winery opened. An old man who lived in a village at the foot of the mountain walked up the hill to buy wine for us. I was really happy that local people could drink locally produced wine. We have finally come this far,” he said.

Today, many young people from Japan and abroad visit this winery, not only wine lovers, but also young people who want to study wine.

The grapes are used to make wine.

Okayama Prefecture is known as the “Land of Sunshine, Okayama” because of its high percentage of sunny days. In addition to ample sunshine hours, Niimi City is located at an elevation of 400 meters above sea level and has a large temperature difference, which makes it suitable for grape cultivation, such as sweetness and coloring.

In addition, “domaine tetta” is making efforts to reduce diseases and pesticides as much as possible by protecting the grapes from rain through a rain-cut cultivation method in which plastic covers are placed over the grape trellises so that the grapes are not directly exposed to rain. In this way, the ripeness of the grapes is slowly increased.

In winemaking, wild yeasts are used and no supplemental sugar or acid is added. Antioxidants are added only when necessary. The concept of winemaking is to “finish the wine by the power of the grapes” without adding artificial substances.

Aiming for Tetta’s Unique Taste

The next step is how to express the land of “tetta” (Tetta) in wine. The next step is how to express the land of “tetta” (tetta) in wine.

Currently, 22 varieties of grapes are grown, including those for fresh eating and experimental cultivation. The representative varieties are Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. In recent years, as the vines have aged, we have come to feel that the minerality of the land has emerged. One of the more unusual wines is made from Aki Queen, a red grape used for fresh eating. With its tropical flavor, the wine is said to be highly favored by people from overseas.

From 2021, in cooperation with the National Research Institute of Alcoholic Beverages, an independent administrative agency that conducts research and surveys on alcoholic beverages, they will conduct research on tetta in the cultivation and brewing process to deepen their knowledge of the effects of yeast on wine.

Nine seasons have passed since the estate was established. After nine seasons on the estate, he has finally gotten the feeling that he can compete with these varieties, and is now in the process of narrowing down his selection of varieties.

To prevent the vineyards from being returned to abandoned land again

Domaine tetta” was started with the desire to revitalize abandoned vineyards.

It has been about 15 years since its establishment. From his own experience, Mr. Takahashi realizes that wine is not just a drink, but also a tool to connect various relationships. He also realizes that wine has the potential to connect to the world. In fact, “tetta” wines are now distributed in North America and Europe. In addition, two wineries have been established in Niimi City, following in the footsteps of “domaine tetta.

When asked about their future prospects, the answer was quite simple: “Our main goal is to continue growing grapes and making wine in this area. He believes that the most important thing is to create local employment and pass this business on to the next generation. He has never wavered from the fact that the core of this project is the “restoration of abandoned farmland. In addition, they will draw out the power of the grapes and create wines that showcase the terroir. The never-ending challenge of “domaine tetta” continues.

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Kisvin Winery, located in Shioyama, Koshu City, Yamanashi Prefecture, is an up-and-coming winery where viticulturist Yasuhiro Ogihara and young winemaker Mayu Saito began brewing in 2013. The Kisvin wines are the result of the mutual recognition of each other’s individuality and the improvement of each other’s skills by the experts in viticulture and winemaking.

With a generous love for grapes

Kisvin” means ”kiss the grapes. The name “Kisvin Winery” expresses the love for grapes that makes Ogihara-san and Saito-san, who love grapes so much they want to kiss them, join forces with Saito-san, an oenologist who has studied winemaking in California and Burgundy, and Ogihara-san, who has been involved in grape cultivation for over 20 years, They believe that the quality of the grapes is directly related to the taste of the wine, and they are committed to the cultivation of high quality grapes, sparing no effort, utilizing plant physiology and the latest cultivation management techniques.

Continuously evolving with an eye on the times

Born into a family of grape farmers in Yamanashi Prefecture, Mr. Ogihara took over the family business in 2001, and in the process of converting grapes from fresh to vinification, he established “Team Kisvin,” a study group for vinification grapes in 2005, and began growing grapes for wine and expanding the scale of his business. The group sold grapes to Chateau Sakaori Winery Co. in Kofu City, which recognized the high quality of the grapes and decided to vinify them in dedicated tanks. Kisvin Koshu 2008 was then released by “Team Kisvin.

In 2009, Kisvin established an agricultural production corporation, Kisvin Corporation, which expanded the scale of its vineyards, increased grape production, and continued vinification at Chateau Sakaori Winery, while establishing its own winemaking facility and beginning winemaking in 2013.

The theory of cultivation changes with the times. If you continue with the same old methods without thinking, you are not evolving,” says Ogihara. He has arrived at his current cultivation methods through years of accumulated experience, sometimes denying what he is doing and sometimes responding flexibly to climate changes. The vineyards that Mr. Ogihara cares for are well managed from corner to corner, and the orderly arrangement of the grapes is impressive.

Thoroughly manage the fields with photosynthesis as the top priority.

Mr. Ogiwara, who chose to grow grapes on trellises because the leaves and berries close to the ground would be exposed to morning dew and high humidity under hedge cultivation, places the utmost importance on “the health of the vines and berries. To this end, he focuses on creating an environment suitable for photosynthesis as well as protecting the vines from pests and diseases. The proper temperature for promoting photosynthesis is 20-25 degrees Celsius, and photosynthesis begins before sunrise, with the greatest increase in photosynthesis occurring around 9:00 am. Too much sunlight will cause the temperature to rise rapidly and transpiration to increase, and too much light will reduce the speed and efficiency of photosynthesis. In shelf cultivation, the upper leaves are exposed to direct sunlight, but the lower leaves and fruits are exposed to soft light suitable for photosynthesis and protected by a moderate temperature range.

Mr. Ogihara, who manages his plots under herbaceous cultivation with almost no fertilizers, wants to respect plant life, and sometimes implements innovative ideas such as grafting Chardonnay grapes onto 20-year-old Cabernet Sauvignon vines. Because of his sincere attitude toward the vines, “Pruning determines the yield and taste of the grapes in a given year, so pruning is the most interesting part. That is why pruning is the most interesting part,” he says with a smile.

Beautiful wines with pure grapes.

Mr. Ogiwara, who likes aromatic grapes, chose Koshu, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, and Vaonier. His ideal wine is “a beautiful wine. The ideal wine is “a beautiful wine,” one that is so clear that one can clearly imagine the grapes themselves when one takes a sip. Mr. Ogiwara wants to make wines that will be recognized around the world, which is why he believes that “it is necessary to carefully and surely do what needs to be done in the vineyards now, one by one, rather than trying new things. I haven’t yet achieved a perfect score of 100 in my mind. The challenge is how to bring it closer to 100 points,” he says, with a grim expression on his face. As a grower, I just have to make sure that the grapes are well-cultivated so that when the wine is finally made, it will not be blamed on the weather or abnormal weather conditions.

“Emerald Koshu” focusing on the color and ripeness of the fruit

Mr. Saito first encountered wine while traveling as a student, and when he experienced harvesting grapes in Corsica, France, with a wine producer who owns a vineyard and winery and handles everything from grape cultivation to vinification, aging, and bottling, he recalls, “It touched something fundamental in me. He recalls, “It touched something fundamental in me. I thought, ‘What a wonderful job it would be to grow plants, make wine from the harvested grapes, and entertain guests! He felt an intuition that “I want to make wine in Japan, where I was born and raised, that I can be proud of to the world.

Mr. Saito thought that in order to make excellent wine in Japan, it was important to study in a region that was growing by leaps and bounds, and to grasp the secrets of that growth. At the time, California wines represented a new type of winemaking known as the “New World,” and their value was rising rapidly. He went abroad to find out why this was possible, what perspectives Japan needed, and what Japan lacked.

When Mr. Ogihara happened to see a blog post about winemaking written by Mr. Saito, he went to California State University in 2009, where he was enrolled in the oenology department, and scouted out Mr. Saito. Because of his excellent grades, Mr. Saito was selected as an assistant winemaker at the university’s winery, where he also taught local students. He then went to Burgundy, France to gain more experience in brewing, and returned to Japan in 2013 when the brewery was completed in Shioyama, Koshu City, to take on the role of head brewer.

Mr. Saito, who is also involved in cultivation as a winemaker, pays particular attention to Koshu grapes. As the grapes ripen, they turn purple, and in the process, bitterness comes out. As a result, they arrived at the method of applying an umbrella to each bunch of grapes. The silver umbrella, developed by the company, blocks sunlight, allowing the Koshu grapes to ripen while still green. Mr. Saito describes Koshu grapes that have reached a high degree of ripeness but still retain a beautiful emerald green color as “emerald Koshu. He says that the grapes are thoroughly quality-conscious, which clearly shows in the beautiful color and delicate taste of the wine.

As the harvest season approaches, he carefully checks the color, acidity, and seed ripeness of the berries to determine the best time to harvest. Observing the color and condition of the seeds is especially important in order to determine the ripeness of the grapes. The vinification method is determined based on the quality of the harvested grapes: stainless steel tanks are used if the grapes are not too oaky, and barrels are used for grapes with high potential that can be aged for a longer period of time. There is no set recipe for each variety, so it is important to think carefully about what you need to do to get the best out of the grapes you harvest.

Mr. Saito is committed to “making effective use of the lees. Lees are the sediments of the wine’s components, and Mr. Saito does not remove the lees after fermentation is complete, but leaves the wine on the lees to mature. Although racking produces a clear wine, Saito does not overcook the juice, but rather skillfully uses the large amount of lees left in the wine to bring out the flavor of the lees itself. He carefully checks how much lees is used to give the wine depth, and says, “The ideal wine is one that emphasizes smoothness, but also has subtle tastes and something that makes you think a little.

To make the name of “Shioyama” famous throughout the world

The “Chardonnay Reserve,” made by carefully selecting only the highest quality fruit, is a glossy golden yellow wine with refined acidity and gorgeousness. This special brand, which Mr. Saito himself is confident that it is of the highest quality, can be enjoyed with a long aging period. Saito’s eyes sparkle as he says, “I want to make a sparkling wine that will make the name of Shioyama known all over the world,” but because of his heavy responsibilities as head winemaker, he has to be in the vineyard every day to tend to the grapes and check the wines in the winery. In order to make time for this, it is important to build a team as a winery, and as a winemaker, it is also necessary to improve my sensibility through exposure to art,” he says. While keeping abreast of the changes of the times, he also has to understand what kind of wine he likes and what the world is looking for, and “my job is to strike a balance between the two and create the ideal wine.

Passionate about winemaking and professional development

In these times of stress and hardship, just a little bit of wine can bring a moment of joy and healing. Wine is also attractive to its makers, and Saito describes it as “something that connects people to each other. I have met people I admire, it has given me business opportunities, and it has broadened my view of the world,” he said. Wine takes me to new worlds I have not seen yet.

However, he gives a grim assessment of his own winemaking, saying, “I still have a ways to go. That is why he says, “I don’t know if I will be able to do the work I want to do during my lifetime. I have to do work that I can pass on to the next generation,” he says, and strives to nurture the next generation. Mr. Saito believes that it is too late to start training apprentices after he has made it big as a brewer, and that he must grow while at the same time nurturing the next generation. I want to improve the fields and make them easier to cultivate so that I can pass them on to my successor,” he smiles.

Mr. Ogihara, nodding his head next to Saito, added, “We will set the trend and pass on our skills to the young people in this company. I am sure that in the future, new ideas and techniques will emerge that we have never thought of.

Kisvin Winery, where Ogiwara-san and Saito-san’s strong personalities and talents clash and blend to produce wines full of originality, was visited by the late Gérard Basse, a sommelier who held five Master of Wine titles and was named the best in the world, in 2017. He tasted the Kisvin Pinot Noir and praised it highly. The wines of the two winemakers will continue to surprise and inspire the world, as Mr. Basse highly praised their “unique and sensational wines made by a talented winemaker.

The post Kisvin Winery, a wine created by two specialists, a grower and an oenologist first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Since the establishment of Furuya Brewery in the Meiji Era (1868-1912), when Western culture first entered Japan, Lumiere Corporation (hereafter Lumiere Winery) has been producing representative Japanese brands with an emphasis on Koshu, a variety born in Yamanashi Prefecture. President Shigeki Kida, who has devoted himself to the development of Yamanashi’s wine industry while focusing on the development of Koshu orange wine and sparkling wine unique to Japan, has a vision for the future.

Winery under the Imperial Household Agency warrant since its establishment in the Meiji era

The wine industry began in Japan during the turbulent period between the end of the Edo period and the Meiji period (1868-1912), when the port of Yokohama opened in 1859 and many Westerners arrived in Japan, giving the Japanese people their first taste of wine. The Meiji government positioned winemaking as an important industry, and wineries were built all over Japan.

In the midst of rapid modernization and a major wine boom, Lumiere Winery was founded in 1885 as Furuya Brewery and renamed Koshuen Corporation in 1943, and gained worldwide recognition when it won a gold medal at the Monde Selection International Wine Competition in 1967, and in 1992 The wine brand “Lumiere” became the company name.

In the Taisho Era (1912-1926), the company received a royal warrant from the Imperial Household Agency, and its prestigious winemaking style with its history and traditions has been handed down to the present day.

Wines of Koshu, a special variety for Yamanashi Prefecture

Shigeki Kida was appointed president on the occasion of the 120th anniversary of the company’s founding in 2005, and has served as a director of the Yamanashi Wine Brewers Cooperative Association since 2004, and was a judge at the Slovenian International Wine Competition in 2005. The greatest strength of Yamanashi is its Koshu grape. Since 2013, when Japan’s first “GI Yamanashi” geographical indication for wine was recognized, Koshu wines have gained worldwide recognition, and wine lovers from overseas visit Japan in search of Koshu,” he says. Koshu, with its delicate flavor and good balance, is easy to pair with food, and has been praised by overseas visitors for its excellent marriage with Japanese food in particular.

The company produces so much Koshu that it was named “Koshu En” (Koshu Garden), and even now focuses most of its efforts on Koshu wines, including “Koshu Surly” with its citrus aroma, “Hikari Koshu” with its rich and voluptuous taste from solid oak maturation, “Orange Wine” with its rich flavor with fruity aroma and mellow acidity, and “Prestige Class Oranger” with its fruity aroma and mellow acidity. Prestige Class Oranje,” a rich orange wine with a fruity aroma and mild acidity, rounds out the unique lineup. President Kida praises the high potential of Koshu, saying, “This variety is especially suitable for orange wine made from the skin.

The sparkling series, which is aged in bottle for at least one year after secondary fermentation in the bottle, also offers a wide variety. The dry sparkling Koshu has a solid depth, but is easy to pair with Japanese food. Sparkling orange wine made from Koshu is rare. “Koshu originally has a citrus aroma, so it can produce a refreshing taste. Compared to European varieties, the sugar content is 2 to 3 degrees lower, but if the grapes are harvested after they are fully ripened on the vine, the result is a sparkling wine with a full flavor,” he says.　

In addition to Koshu, the company grows more than 10 other varieties, including Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and the Spanish variety Tempranillo, and is actively experimenting with Spanish, Italian, and other varieties as the weather warms. Among them, a rare variety called Mills is said to produce an aromatic wine with a sweet but lychee-like aroma.

Growing Grapes with an Organic Spirit

Currently, the company has its own 4-hectare vineyard, which is cultivated using no-till, grass-based cultivation, and reduced use of pesticides, which is similar to natural farming methods. Basically, they cultivate their grapes without fertilizers as much as possible, and they work on recycling-oriented agriculture by composting the grape pomace for a year and returning it to the soil. We don’t overdo it or do anything unnecessary,” he says. We don’t try to unnecessarily increase the sugar content, and we believe that wine made from grapes produced in this natural environment is the best for the Japanese body and diet. From cultivation to winemaking, the young members of the team are at the center of Lumiere’s winemaking process, and they all work together to make the wine. I think the kindness of the staff is reflected in the taste of the wine.

Ancient equipment and production methods passed down through the ages

Lumiere Winery, which has been weaving its history since the Meiji Era, still retains valuable historical legacies used in winemaking. The “Ishikura Fermentation Tank,” designated as a Tangible Cultural Property by the Japanese government, is a stone fermentation tank built in 1901, taking advantage of the slope of a fan-shaped land. In 2018, it was designated as a cultural asset of the “Landscape of Vineyards – Koto Region, Yamanashi Prefecture,” a Japanese Heritage site, and even today, Muscat Berry A is brewed using this traditional stone fermentation tank and sold as “Ishikura Wadin”. The company also holds “Ishikura Wadin Brewing Experience Events,” where visitors can experience everything from grape harvesting to brewing.

The underground stone cellar, lined with old barrels, has been in use for many years and is kept at an average temperature of 19 degrees Celsius, which is suitable for fermentation regardless of the season, making use of the characteristics of geothermal heat. During the fall vinification season, the sound of fermentation can be heard constantly from the barrels, and one can feel the vitality of the grapes from the sound of their breath.

As an organizer of wineries in the prefecture

President Kida, who is currently focusing on marketing as vice president of the Yamanashi Wine Brewers Association, says, “There is no doubt that Japanese wine is in the limelight from around the world. Especially in Yamanashi, the association provides solid technical guidance and has raised the overall level of the industry,” he says. There are more than 90 wineries in the prefecture that are unique and attractive, and one of Yamanashi’s strengths is the ability to mutually share data from research and analysis conducted by major companies in cultivation and winemaking. The accumulation of data from various wineries multiplies their experience by many times,” he said. The advantage of Yamanashi wineries is that they can share technical information with each other even though they are rivals,” he says.

However, there are challenges unique to a major fruit-growing region. Koshu is a native Yamanashi grape variety that has existed since the Nara period (710-794), and is said to be resistant to climate change, but President Kida fears that Koshu will disappear due to a decrease in the number of farmers. He said, “Many grape growers are switching from Koshu to Shine Muscat because of the high selling price, and the number of grapes for brewing is decreasing year by year, making the shortage of raw materials a problem. That is why it is necessary to create a system that allows grape growers to earn a solid income from growing grapes for brewing,” he said enthusiastically.

As a manager, he says, “I am always thinking about what the wineries in Yamanashi should be like as a whole. Since the latest vinification equipment is now readily available from overseas, and wineries in Japan are now at the top level of vinification equipment, “Now it is important how to reduce the burden of labor in cultivation and how to increase agricultural productivity,” he said. The Yamanashi Wine Brewers Association as a whole is actively engaged in research on varieties, growing regions, and countermeasure technologies based on climate change, which will lead to further improvement of Yamanashi wines,” he said enthusiastically.

For further development of Yamanashi wines

We see our proximity to Tokyo, a major consumption center, as an advantage. “We will create new values such as ‘Sparkling Oranje,’ further improve the quality of our products, and actively disseminate information about them. We will also make efforts to encourage people to visit wineries in Yamanashi. In particular, the Koto region, which accounts for more than half of the wineries in Yamanashi Prefecture, is close to breweries, making it easy to visit wineries.

To this end, the challenge is to create a transportation system. Although buses and cabs are available, they are limited and sometimes inconvenient during the tourist season. There is an urgent need to improve the infrastructure so that people from Japan and around the world can visit the region.

President Kida, who has also served as chairman of Koshu Of Japan (KOJ), a Yamanashi wine export project launched in 2009 with the aim of branding Yamanashi wines and expanding the market for Koshu wines, says he will put even more effort into exporting overseas. In recent years, exports to Southeast Asia in particular have been increasing, and he smiles, “In countries that use fermented seasonings, local cuisine and Japanese wine go well together.

Lumiere Winery has been producing wines that are highly acclaimed around the world by taking on the challenge of innovative winemaking while inheriting vineyards with a history of more than 130 years and traditional production methods. Lumiere” means “light” in French. Lumiere” means “light” in French, and the future of Japanese wine will shine brighter, stronger, and more solidly.

The post “Lumiere Winery” cherishes Koshu, a native Yamanashi grape variety, and is committed to winemaking with tradition and innovation. first appeared on NIHONMONO.

In the Katsunuma district of Koshu City, where the wine culture has been prevalent since ancient times and wine has taken root in daily life, Shirayuri Brewing Company was started as a cooperative brewery by a group of grape farmers. What is the appeal of “Lorient Wine,” a brand that has been refined while building an open family winery?

Katsunuma’s traditional grape wine culture takes root in Katsunuma

In 1876, the Prefectural Industrial Research Institute was built on the ruins of Kofu Castle, and the following year, the Prefectural Brewery was completed.

At about the same time, in Koshu City, located in the eastern part of Yamanashi Prefecture, the establishment of Dainippon Yamanashi Grapes and Breweries Co. In the Katsunuma area in particular, grape growers gathered one after another to form a cooperative and embarked on a joint brewing project to produce wine for their own use. The resulting wine was called “Budoshu,” and a unique style was created in which the wine was stored in one bottle and drunk with a teacup. The wine was drunk not only at weddings and funerals, but also in everyday life, and became a familiar luxury item for the farmers. The custom of making and enjoying one’s own wine led to full-scale winemaking, and today the Katsunuma area is home to more than 30 wineries.

(hereinafter referred to as “Shirayuri Brewery”), founded in 1938, is another winery that was originally a cooperative brewing cooperative. The first generation established the Shirayuri Brewery Cooperative with neighboring farmers, which was incorporated in 1952, and the third generation, Takao Uchida, became president in 1995. After graduating from Tokyo University of Agriculture, Mr. Uchida went on to graduate school in the Department of Brewing and Fermentation, majoring in agricultural chemistry and applied microbiology, and worked for a liquor wholesaler for two years as a distributor before studying practical winemaking at a wine research institute in Provence, southern France. The family wineries he saw in France at that time became the foundation for Mr. Uchida’s passion to realize family wineries in Japan that value the warmth and hospitality that only family-run wineries can provide.

From a Corner of the Orient to the World

Shirayuri Brewery’s brand name “L’Orient” means “Orient” in French. The name “L’Orient” is derived from the idea of “producing high quality wines of European standard from Japan. The spirit of L’Orient Wine is to “create wines that aim for the world while respecting the local climate of Katsunuma.

If you come here and see the vineyards and experience the climate firsthand, you will surely understand our winemaking,” says Mr. Uchida calmly as he stands in the vineyards where hedges of grapes spread all over the land. Standing in the vineyards, Uchida says calmly, “What is important to us is that the grapes are healthy and free of disease. The spacing of the rows is wide and spacious to allow for good air circulation, and the grapes are set higher to prevent moisture from the ground and pests.

The well-maintained vineyards are said to get a breeze when the sun begins to set. The strong wind called “Sasago Oroshi,” which blows locally from the Sasago Pass on the east side of Koshu City, improves the flow of air and keeps the grapes healthy. It is truly an ideal place for fruit cultivation. Our wines are bottled with all of this scenery and atmosphere.

Thoughts on indigenous breeds born in Japan

He also grows his own European varieties, including Koshu and Muscat Berry A, Delaware, Adirondack, Merlot, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot, but Uchida’s passion for the indigenous Japanese varieties of Koshu and Muscat Berry A is strong.

They are the most vigorous grape varieties in the vineyards, but when it comes to wine, they are quiet and humble, just like the Japanese. It is like a Yamato Nadeshiko (a woman of refined elegance and modesty),” Uchida says of Koshu. He also describes Muscat Berry A as “unlike European varieties, it puts health first. It grows vigorously in the vineyards. Although it may not be as flamboyant as Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon, “It’s not about whether the grape variety is good or bad, it’s about the individuality of the grape,” he says. It’s interesting because the differences clearly show up in the wine,” he says. My current goal is to have people say that wines made with the Japanese varieties Koshu and Muscat Berry A are the best in the industry, and I hope that improved varieties born in Japan will exist in this region 100 years from now and produce more gorgeous and dignified wines.

Connecting Beloved Production Areas to the Next Generation

Since Shirayuri Brewery cannot produce enough grapes from its own vineyards alone, it purchases about 70% of its ingredients from contracted farmers. Mr. Uchida, who believes that “winemaking comes from the farmers,” communicates closely with his contract farmers and has built a good, face-to-face relationship with them. He says, “We can make wine because we trust the farmers in the area. That is the beauty of a small family winery. However, the production of grapes for vinification is declining due to the aging of the farmers and the shift to grape varieties for fresh eating. We must protect the Japanese varieties that have been passed down through the generations in this region and preserve them for future generations,” he said earnestly. The spirit of terroir that he learned in France lives on in Mr. Uchida: to preserve tradition, to love his region, and to pass on the entire environment surrounding the grapes to future generations.

Japanese wine is an important part of Japanese culture

In vinification, Uchida explains, “The quality of the grapes is high, so all we have to do is cleanliness and careful maturation. He has won numerous awards at domestic and international competitions, and was delighted when “L’Orient Koshu Vigne de Nakagawa 2021,” brewed with Koshu grapes grown by Mr. Kimiharu Nakagawa of Ichinomiya-cho, Fuefuki-shi, was served to the heads of state at the G7 Hiroshima Summit of the Group of Seven Advanced Nations in May 2023. The fact that a brand using the Koshu grape, which is indigenous to Yamanashi, was introduced as a representative wine of Japan is a great encouragement to the producers, who cultivate the grapes with great care every year. In addition, the fact that Koshu wine was offered as a wine that goes well with Japanese cuisine has increased awareness and attention of Koshu wine, and Mr. Uchida says emphatically, “I would like to deliver Japanese wine to the rest of the world as a part of Japanese culture.

While focusing on winemaking, in 2004 (Heisei 16), the company purchased a distilling machine from Italy and began producing and selling “grappa,” a traditional Italian distilled liquor. Grappa is made from the skins of Koshu and Muscat Berry A grapes, and is produced using the decompression distillation method, so it has a clean, mild taste and soft aroma. The rare domestic grappa is named “Uchida Budo Yakishu” and is now a signature product along with Lorient wine.

An open winery rooted in the community

Mr. Uchida believes that it is important to have as many people as possible visit the winery, see the vineyards and brewery in person, and enjoy the winery with all five senses. He also offers wine bottling and original label-making experiences, and has carved out a history as an open winery where families and groups can become familiar with wine and have a great time together.

The reason why we open our doors to a wide range of generations is because we hope that the people of Japan will love Japanese wine more and actively drink it. Mr. Uchida has always felt that wine is an important traditional industry that has built up the local culture, and that is why he says, “To have pride in this hometown. As the phrase “local production for local consumption” suggests, I want Japanese people to drink more Japanese wine.

While producing high quality wines, Shirayuri Brewery has inherited the grape wine culture that has been loved and nurtured in the region. They will continue to take on the challenge of becoming a family winery that conveys the charm of wine while preserving the Katsunuma wine region.

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The southern foothills of the Yatsugatake Mountains are blessed with a rich natural environment and the most hours of sunlight in Japan. In 2011, Ms. Mie Ikeno opened her winery, Domaine Mie Ikeno, in Hokuto City, Yamanashi Prefecture, where wineries are mushrooming one after another in search of the best weather conditions for grape cultivation. What kind of wines does Ms. Ikeno produce, attracted by the location with a great sense of openness that makes you want to take a deep breath?

A place where you can face grapes with peace of mind.

Under an endless clear blue sky, the vineyards spread across the hillside, waiting to be harvested with many grapes grown in the full sunlight. Four years later, when the vines finally began to produce small bunches of grapes, Ikeno Miei decided to plant a vineyard in the town of Kobuchizawa, Hokuto City, in order to produce high quality wine from grapes grown 100% in her own vineyard, Four years later, when the vines finally began to produce small bunches of grapes, he built the winery “Domaine Mie Ikeno. Domaine” means “home-grown vintner. The term is used in the Burgundy region of France and refers to a producer who handles everything from grape cultivation to vinification.

In front of the brewery is a hedge of grapes that seems to stretch to the sky, with the Southern Alps towering beyond. From the vineyard, there is a 360-degree view of Japan’s famous peaks, including the Yatsugatake Mountains, the Chichibu mountain range, Mount Fuji, and on clear days, the Northern Alps. Sometimes there is even a sea of clouds below. I felt at home here, and I was convinced that I could handle the grapes with care,” smiles Mr. Ikeno.

The 3.6 ha vineyard, which was created by cultivating abandoned land, is located at an elevation of approximately 750 m and slopes down to a volcanic ash soil with good drainage. Hokuto City boasts one of the highest rates of sunny days in Japan, and thanks to the “Yatsugatake Oroshi,” which blows down from the Yatsugatake Mountains, the air flows well, allowing plenty of sunlight to fall on the land. The long hours of sunlight allow the grapes to grow healthily, and the low rainfall and large temperature difference between day and night give the fruit a rich flavor and high sugar content. The reason why all the grapes are grown on hedges is that “the number of bunches per vine is limited, so the fruit is more concentrated than when grown on trellises.

In order to create soft, densely packed soil in which the trees can grow easily, the farmers do not use herbicides, but instead use herbaceous cultivation and mow the grass frequently. Of course, no chemical fertilizers are used. Kobuchizawa is known as a “horse town” with horse riding clubs and ranches, including the Yamanashi Equestrian Center. The farmers use easily accessible horse manure for compost, and add rice hulls in the fall to make the soil microorganisms more active. The farmers are committed to creating an environment that allows the vines to grow healthy and spontaneously.

Mr. Ikeno grows only three varieties of grapes that he is truly in love with: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Merlot. He tailors the fruit to a higher position to protect it from mud splash and moisture, and has installed handmade rain protection as a precaution against rot and disease. The handmade rain protection, although small, is proving to be extremely effective.
Before harvesting, the berries are checked frequently, and any damaged grains are removed by hand to ensure that only clean berries are used. He says, “We immediately decide what to do next according to the climate of the land and act accordingly. We repeat this process every year. He always sharpens his senses and observes the condition of the grapes.

Faithful to traditional Burgundy methods

Ikeno, who originally worked as a magazine editor, says, “I love nature, people, and culture, and wine in my mind is the combination of these three things. Wine is a difficult culture whose ideology and individuality changes depending on the country and the winemaker, but I wanted to dare to challenge myself in this area.” After graduating from the Faculty of Pharmacy at the Université National de Montpellier in France in 2005, he became the seventh person in Japan to obtain the French national oenologist license, and after working in Burgundy, he returned to Japan, After working in Burgundy, he returned to Japan and established Les Pas du Château Co. He continues to serve as a judge for international wine competitions in Europe and Asia.

Mr. Ikeno’s unwavering desire to produce the beautiful wines of Burgundy in Japan has been a constant since the company’s founding. At the time of its establishment, it was difficult to obtain brewing equipment that was commonplace in France, but Mr. Ikeno’s brewery, built with ingenuity and ingenuity, employs a gravity flow system that does not place a burden on the wine. The gravity flow system, which uses gravity to drop the juice without the use of machinery, allows for vinification while maintaining the quality of the grapes without damaging their individuality, and is in line with Mr. Ikeno’s philosophy of always treating the grapes gently and with care. Generally, a pump is used after the grapes are put into the tanks, but Mr. Ikeno uses gravity flow until the final bottling.
While maintaining thorough sanitary control, he determines when to make modifications to bring out the true potential of the grapes. He says, “I wanted to reduce artificiality as much as possible and recreate the old-fashioned Burgundy method.

The method is to make wines that are aged for a long time in oak barrels for all three varietals. In particular, Pinot Noir and Merlot are aged in barrels for 2 to 3 years. The reason why they adhere to the traditional methods of Burgundy is because “tradition never betrays you,” he says firmly. Mr. Ikeno believes that the traditional methods handed down from generation to generation have been built up by the hands of many people, and that the reason they have continued to the present day is because the traditions are not mistaken. My method is as old as 300 years ago, but I want to continue the tradition and wisdom of my predecessors with all my effort,” he says.

A wine that snuggles up to evoke memories.

When he first established the winery, Mr. Ikeno said he was aiming for “dignified and elegant wines. However, as he has been involved in winemaking for many years, his values and approach have changed, and now he says, “I want the wines to be the kind of wines that gently nestle into your body, and when you drink them at the end of the day, you can relax and feel at ease.
Rather than having winemaker Mie Ikeno take the forefront, he hopes that the wine will speak naturally to the palate. The weather and natural environment of the year will be bottled in a sizzling way to create a taste that evokes that year. I hope that this wine will be a trigger for people to talk about the year with their loved ones and bookmark a page in their memories,” he said.

Gekka” born from Night Harvest

Mr. Ikeno now wants to carefully manage this one vineyard so that he can take care of every corner of it properly. Sometimes he even conducts “night harvests,” harvesting Chardonnay grapes late at night with headlights on. Because grapes lose sugar and acidity when exposed to sunlight, harvesting at night, when the temperature is cooler, allows the grapes to retain their sugar, acid, and aroma.
The brand name “Gekka” made from Chardonnay harvested at midnight produces a full-bodied wine with a concentrated, fresh aroma and clear acidity. On the other hand, Chardonnay harvested during the daytime produces a thicker, richer, more elegant wine, and the difference in harvest time is clearly expressed in the wine’s taste.

A place of rest and relaxation where everyone can smile.

Looking back on the 16 years since he began planting grapes, Mr. Ikeno smiles and says, “It’s been a lot of fun. In an effort to respond to offers from overseas, he plans to ship to New York and Hong Kong this year. Ikeno, who has been vigorously engaged in winemaking and selflessly overcoming the challenges before him, looks ahead to the future, saying, “I have been stoic up to now, so as I get older, I want to build a place where I can have fun with many people and create an environment where everyone can be happy. I want to create an environment where everyone can be happy.
The taste of wine changes dramatically depending on the state of the winemaker. The wine “Mie Ikeno” expresses the fresh air of the southern foothills of the Yatsugatake Mountains and Ikeno’s gentle personality.

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Koshu City in Yamanashi Prefecture is home to many unique wineries of various sizes. The number of wineries is as many as 45. In the northern part of Koshu City, located in the eastern part of the Kofu Basin, in Shioyama Fukuori, vineyards spread across a steep mountainous terrain, and a winery stands with an outstanding view of Mt. In Yamanashi, the birthplace of Japanese wine, we encountered an innovative wine with the prominent personality of the winemaker, Shigeyuki Hirayama.

With the Evolution of Japanese Wine

Originally from Yokohama, Kanagawa Prefecture, Mr. Hirayama came to Yamanashi when he was 25 years old. When he was 30 years old, he went to Burgundy, France to study and saw the workings of a small winery up close, which made him realize, “I want to own my own winery and make wine. I want to own my own winery and make wine. At the time, he had a grand dream of obtaining a winery of his own and making world-class Japanese wine. At the time, it was impossible to apply for a new winemaking license, but Mr. Hirayama’s passion for wine and insatiable inquisitiveness motivated him to pursue his dream, and he worked as a winemaker at a winery in Yamanashi Prefecture for many years.

However, in the late 1980s, when Japan began to realize that “imitation alone will not make Japan a wine-producing nation,” a Merlot wine produced in Nagano Prefecture won a major gold medal at an international wine competition, and Japanese wine The country entered an era of great evolution and came to be in the limelight at world competitions. At the same time that Japan was gaining worldwide recognition as a wine-growing region, Mr. Hirayama turned his attention once again to indigenous varieties. He found infinite possibilities in the varieties that had been passed down through the generations in Japan and shifted his focus to winemaking that makes the most of the natural environment and land of Koshu City, believing that “it is the local climate, including the varieties, bacteria, temperature, and wind that are rooted in this region, that creates the wines.

Then, when he reached the milestone of turning 60 and was freed from his previous career, Mr. Hirayama launched a consulting business to contribute to the wine industry, and with the help of his co-founders and a relaxed application process for a brewing license, he began to realize the dream he had in his 30s.

Focusing on varieties unique to Japan

98WINEs, a winery established in June 2018, incorporates all of the knowledge, skills, and unique theories backed by experience that have been cultivated up to that point. Based on the concept of “planting the right variety for the right place in the right season,” which means planting varieties that are suited to the climate and natural conditions of the 650-meter-high land, only two varieties were selected: Muscat Baily A, which is native to Niigata Prefecture, and Koshu, which is indigenous to Yamanashi Prefecture. Koshu, in particular, “is a very aromatic grape with a rich acidity. The bitterness that lingers in the aftertaste produces a crisp wine.

Processes that allow the grapes to reach their full potential

The piles of Muscat Baily A grapes that are harvested are not destemmed, which is the process of removing the stalks from the grapes. Instead, the grapes are put directly into barrels and fermented by crushing them with the feet. This is a surprisingly primitive method, but Mr. Hirayama says, “I believe that whole-cluster fermentation empirically reduces the strawberry flavor characteristic of Muscat Baily A.” The crushed grapes are transferred to a vat and fermented in the barrels for a few days. The crushed grapes are transferred to vats and exposed to sunlight while being stirred outdoors three times a day during the day, and then allowed to sleep quietly in the cellar at night. The grapes are full of juice and carbon dioxide gas, and you can feel them breathing as if they were alive. This process is repeated for three weeks before maturing the grapes in barrels.

Of course, Koshu is not destemmed, but the whole bunch is crushed and the juice is squeezed and put directly into the tank. The stalks act as a filter, which increases the clarity of the juice during pressing. The juice is then fermented, and the aroma of the Koshu grape is enriched,” says Mr. Hirayama. After the solids are allowed to settle and ferment as is, only the supernatant is bottled directly without filtration.

In addition, rosé wine is generally made from red wine grapes only, but the “two-stage preparation” procedure, in which Koshu grapes are added to red wine brewed from Muscat Baily A and fermented again, is used. The “mixed fermentation method” using two varieties at different harvest times was made possible precisely because of this location.

Winemaking that is close to nature and listens to the voice of the earth

Mr. Hirayama has stripped away all unnecessary processes to arrive at a very simple vinification method. To avoid stressing the fruit and wine, he uses gravity flow, which takes advantage of the gravity caused by the natural difference in elevation rather than machines, and handles the grapes gently and carefully without damaging their delicate characteristics. While maintaining strict safety and sanitary control, he eliminates chemical substances as much as possible and leaves the grapes to the natural flow of nature.
Although he sometimes makes slight temperature changes during the fermentation process or fine-tunes the amount of wine to be squeezed, he is adamant that “the wine is allowed to change in taste depending on the temperature and weather conditions of the year. The clarity and delicacy of the wines reflect Mr. Hirayama’s gentle yet graceful personality.

The 98WINEs lineup includes “SOU,” a series that accompanies everyday dining, “KOKU,” a long-aged wine with a gorgeous and long-lasting finish, and “NOGI,” a wine that “challenges the interesting characteristics of the Koshu and Muscat Baily A grape varieties. The “NOGI” series is the series that expresses the company’s individuality the most, and the rosé in particular is a wine that brings out the charming aroma of Muscat Baily A.

Next to the brewery is the “tree wing,” a store that offers wine tasting and sales, and Hirayama hopes to use it as a hub to interact with the many people who visit the area. This year, the winery was selected as one of the “World’s Best Vineyards 2023,” which selects the world’s best wineries involved in wine tourism. One would think that this “98 Wines” would be the culmination of his work as a winemaker, but he says, “We can’t reach 100 on our own. With the support and collaboration of various people, we would like to reach 100, and then 200, or even 300,” he smiles. Despite having lived his life alongside the history of domestic wine and having led the Japanese wine industry, Mr. Hirayama remains humble to the point of humility, but his eyes are already looking ahead to the next era. He is pursuing new possibilities for wine produced by indigenous varieties, with a view to handing down winemaking to the next generation.

Unique beer created by the craftsmanship of the brewer

Mr. Hirayama, who clearly states that he loves beer as much as wine, opened the brewery “98BEERs” in 2022 in the innermost part of the Fushouri village. He renovated a building that used to be a daycare center to create a craft beer brewery on the first floor and accommodations “Stay366” on the second floor, saying, “Beer suits Japanese people because it is a drink of technology.

Brewer Naofumi Miyazaki is in charge of brewing the beer. The goal was to create a beer that is easy to pair with meals. The brewery sought to differentiate its beers from craft beers that emphasize hops by emphasizing the “barley wine” flavor, which allows the brewer to enjoy the harmony of various elements such as the sweetness and flavor of barley and yeast, in addition to the bitterness. The soft water in the region gives it a soft mouthfeel, and the mellowness of the beer is superb, created with the overall smoothness of the beer in mind rather than the bitterness of the hops.

They also take on new challenges in brewing beer, such as secondary fermentation in a champagne bottle using traditional Belgian methods, and actively using local ingredients such as locally grown fruit, korogaki (persimmons), and herbs grown in their garden.

The lineup includes the orthodox standard series “98,” the second series “Jokei,” which incorporates fruits such as plums and yuzu, and the high-class “Shippo,” which is aged for a long time to give it a deep and profound flavor. and “Garden,” which is scented with herbs and nuts. Each of these beers, which have been carefully crafted to be original, have fresh and enjoyable aromas and flavors, and tasting them with wine is said to have a synergistic effect on the sense of taste.

We would like to work together with wineries and breweries to create something that can only be expressed here, without being influenced by trends,” says Hirayama. The possibilities for collaboration between wine and beer are endless.

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Sakai Winery Ltd. has a history of over 100 years in wine production. Since the Meiji Era, when the company began cultivating vineyards and brewing wine in Akayu, Nanyo City, they have been making wine the old-fashioned way, using a non-filter method and the natural yeasts and microorganisms that exist in the area, while also making innovative efforts such as “mixed wine,” a blend of several different types of wine.

History of Sakai Winery

Nanyo City, located in the southeastern part of Yamagata Prefecture, has been cultivating grapes since the Edo period due to the temperature difference between day and night characteristic of the basin and the good drainage of the hilly terrain. Akayu is also famous as a hot spring resort with a history of more than 930 years. Since the late Heian period (794-1192) to the present, it has healed many visitors.

Nanyo City is also a wine-producing region with many small wineries. In fact, six of the 18 wineries in Yamagata Prefecture are located in Nanyo City, including Sakai Winery, which has both a brewery and a store.

It all started with the cultivation of vineyards.

Sakai Winery, founded in 1892, is the oldest winery in Tohoku. It is a brewing company that has been run by the Sakai family for generations, but wine production began in 1887, before the company was founded. The first prefectural governor of Yamagata Prefecture promoted the cultivation of fruit trees, and Yaso Sakai, the 16th head of the Sakai family, began cultivating vineyards.

The Sakai family was also running a hot spring inn business when they started growing grapes, and while running the inn business, they spent five years growing grapes and started brewing wine in 1892. In the beginning, their products were mainly for tourists,
At first, the products were mainly for tourists, and sweet port wine was the only way to sell. After the war, sake became the preferred drink, and wine sales slowed down. However, during the time of Matahira Sakai, the fourth generation of the winery’s founder, wine finally came into the limelight, aided by the spread of Western-style cuisine and the so-called “Itameshi boom. In 2004, Ippei Sakai, the 20th head of the Sakai family and current head of Sakai Winery, completed a master’s degree in brewing at Tokyo University of Agriculture and returned to Yamagata to take his place.

In the past, 90% of sales were to individuals, but now individuals account for 30% and liquor stores and restaurants for 70%. In addition, recent trends show an increase in exports, with distribution in Southeast Asia, the U.S., Sweden, and other countries,” says Sakai. He feels that the wine industry is changing with the times.

Natural farming methods suited to the land

Sakai Winery now has about 15 of its own vineyards in the Akayu area. The nearest one is a five-minute drive from the winery. However, when Mr. Sakai made his U-turn in 2004, there was only one vineyard. It was on a slope so steep that it was difficult to stand on it, and it had been abandoned. Since other vineyards in Akayu have similar topography, it became difficult to maintain the vineyards due to the declining birthrate and aging population, and some land was abandoned in the same way.

Sakai Winery, which purchased such land and increased its own vineyards, now grows a wide variety of varieties. The lineup ranges from traditional varieties such as Koshu, Delaware, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Malbec to varieties developed in modern times. The reason for this is that we are incorporating a variety of grape varieties with the aim of producing grapes that can withstand climate change. This is because in recent years, the summer temperatures in Yamagata Prefecture have risen to the point of extreme heat, causing serious problems such as an earlier harvest time and, in some vineyards, the spread of grape diseases that sometimes make it impossible to harvest at all.

It is natural that vegetation changes as the climate changes. I want to produce wines that can be considered unique, while accepting climate change,” says Sakai.

One of Sakai Winery’s unique attempts is to recreate the way farmers did things 100 years ago using modern technology. One such example is the sheep in their vineyards.

A small ecosystem spreading in our own fields

After becoming the representative of Sakai Winery in 2004, he began attending various study groups around 2007. He stopped using chemical insecticides that he had been using in his company and switched to pesticide-free cultivation. This was done in order to create a flow where the grapes live in the land without overworking and become wine without overworking. As a part of this, they have further introduced sheep.

The sheep’s role is weeding and composting. Because machinery is not allowed in the company’s vineyards on steep slopes, sheep, which feed on grass and squeezed grape residue, take on the role of weeding. In addition, the compost from the sheep compensates for the problem of the hilly terrain where melting snow washes away the nutrients in the soil.

The feces emitted by sheep that eat weeds and grape pomace from the winery nourishes the vineyards and allows the grapes to grow. It is truly a small ecological cycle that smoothly links the vineyard and winery.

Commitment to Unfiltered

In addition to sheep, there is something else that Sakai Winery is committed to. That is that they continue to use traditional methods of production that are rooted in the land.

Take, for example, the tools. The “Kai-ire-bo” (a bar to put in the wine) and wooden barrels made from chestnut trees in Akayu are still used as they were in the old days. By continuing to use them, the brewery’s own yeast is attached to them, giving the wine a unique character. The enamel tanks have also been in use for about 70 years, as they add depth to the wine’s flavor.

The non-filter method has been used since the establishment of the company. Instead of using filtering equipment, they wait for the wine’s lees to settle naturally in the tanks, then scoop out the supernatant and wait for it to settle further. This process is repeated, and finally the wine is aged with the lees in a sake bottle. The reason for using sake bottles is that “the bottom area of a sake bottle is larger than that of a tank, making it easier for the lees to come into contact with the wine. This is a very time-consuming process, but the lees is the yeast that has finished fermenting, and the flavor created by the lees is the same as that of the wine. The flavor created by the lees gives the wine a local character, so Sakai Winery has continued to use this method for a long time.

In addition, since about three years ago, they have been vinifying their wines completely with wild yeast. Wild yeast is a natural yeast found on grape skins. In other words, it is a yeast rooted in the land. Since there was no dried yeast available from the postwar period until Mr. Sakai’s father’s predecessor, they inevitably used wild yeast to make wine, but when Mr. Sakai took over, they used the dried yeast that had become popular around the world. However, more than 10 years ago, around the same time that they switched to pesticide-free cultivation, they started working on reverting back to wild yeast again. Today, they vinify using only wild yeast, which can be said to be the starting point of winemaking.

The latest technology is of course superior, but it is not enough to create individuality. The methods that were left to nature in the past can now be reproduced with modern technology, and by using these methods, the culture and individuality unique to Akayu can now be reflected in the wine, in a good sense.

Brands with the charm of Akayu

Sakai Winery, which grows a variety of grape varieties, also produces a wide range of wines. The names of the wines are also interesting. BIRD UP” is an English translation of the name of the area where the winery’s founder, Yaso Sakai, planted grapes, “Toriajizaka”. The name “Amedanuki” comes from the fact that the grapes are grown in the winery’s own vineyards in “Uruizawa” and “Mujinazawa. The name of the land was chosen in order to identify the characteristics of the wine, which is made from grapes grown in the vineyards.

Among the many brands available, Sakai recommends “Kohime” as the first bottle. The cute name is the name of the Delaware grape used by local farmers. In the past, wine made from Delaware became so popular that farmers became wealthy, so they gave it the name “Princess” and became familiar with it.

In addition to its name, “Mazekoze Wine” is also unique in its production method. This wine is aged in barrels without controlling the variety or year of harvest. Since the percentage of each grape variety is not known, the aroma of the land is said to be stronger.

In addition, the company has also taken on the challenge of producing orange wine, which has been gaining recognition in recent years as the fourth category following red, white, and rosé wines. Delaware, which is easy to find and suitable for the Japanese palate, but has only been used for sweet wines in Yamagata for over 100 years, was used to create a dry wine. Mr. Sakai says that he feels that orange wine, which is made by using red wine production methods to make white wine, has an appeal that has not been brought out in white wine up to now, and has the potential to evolve in the future.

Aiming for an unshakable presence

The Sakai family has been engaged in wine production in Akayu for over 100 years. Their goal for the future is to become an unshakable presence.

They cling to the land where they live, and make wine with the help of grapes while taking advantage of the vineyards and the surrounding environment. Mr. Sakai believes that since it is meaningful to continue on this land, there is no point in comparing ourselves with others. In fact, Sakai Winery, which has been in business for over a hundred years, even survived the World War. As such, he wants to be a winery that is not affected by outside influences.

Mr. Sakai feels that he has finally reached the starting point. There are many things he needs to do and wants to do, such as addressing the new problem of climate change and raising animals in the vineyards that may have existed here for a long time, in addition to sheep. Despite these challenges, he says he already has the conviction that “this is Sakai Winery’s wine.

We cannot take our eyes off Sakai Winery, which continues to take on new challenges while preserving the traditional methods of production.

The post Sakai Winery Ltd., the oldest winery in Tohoku first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Ken and Katsuko Sasaki are winemakers who are dedicated to producing wines with the aroma and taste of the region, based on the philosophy of “nouraku,” which means “to enjoy farming by bending and swinging,” and “to pursue our own ideals without belonging to any one place. The couple, who have been involved in wine production in some of the world’s most prestigious wine regions, chose the Southern Hokkaido region, which includes Hakodate, as their winemaking base.

Learning and meeting in Burgundy, the master of wine

Located at the southern tip of Hokkaido, the port city of Hakodate has served as a hub for international trade. As the gateway to Japan, Hakodate has a history of early influx of Western culture, and its modern buildings with a “high-color” exotic atmosphere are eye-catching. The winery “Norakura” is located in the Motomachi district at the foot of Mount Hakodate, a central tourist area.

Some people are surprised to find a winery in the city center. The farm is located in the Bungetsu district of Hokuto City, which is adjacent to Hakodate City, and the grapes are grown on a south-facing slope with a night view of Hakodate City.

Ken Sasaki, who runs Nora-Kura, says, “We grow grapes on a south-facing slope overlooking the night view of Hakodate city. He and his wife and partner in winemaking, Katsuko, are “growers” who are committed to making wine with a focus on the climate, climate, and growing environment.

The winery, which incorporates both Japanese and Western influences to match Hakodate’s classic atmosphere, was originally renovated from a building that was once a printing office in town. The winery is located in a building that used to be a printing office in the city. We were able to communicate our thoughts on winemaking directly to them, and I think that was a good thing in the end.

Ken was born in Muroran City, but spent his childhood and high school years in Chiba. While pursuing a university education, he had always been interested in wine, which he had always loved.

I was interested in the so-called “sixth industry” of making and selling wine while farming, and I found it more interesting to think about wine than to go to college,” he says. So I went to France.”

In France, he attended an oenology school in Beaune, the center of Burgundy wines, and then returned to Japan and worked at wineries in Yamanashi and Tochigi. As he studied wine in this way, Ken felt that farming and grape growing were not something he did consciously, but something that was integrated into his way of life. In order to confirm whether his feeling was correct or not, he went back to France to further study at renowned wineries such as Christian Vignerre in Alsace and L’Ecrapale in Champagne, both of which are producers of natural wines using organic farming methods.

It was around this time that he met his future partner, Katsuko.

There were Japanese who visited Burgundy, but they all wanted to work as sommeliers or in stores. We were the only ones who wanted to be winemakers.

Born in Saitama Prefecture, Katsuko’s family is a dual-income farmer. They ate rice and vegetables grown at home, and handmade pickled plums and pickles were a staple in the household, so fermented foods were a familiar part of Katsuko’s life.

As she grew up, Katsuko became interested in fermentation, especially sake, and enrolled in the Department of Brewing and Fermentation at the Tokyo University of Agriculture. After graduation, she took on brewing duties at a winery in Hyogo Prefecture. I entered the wine industry because I wanted to make sake, but there was not much to learn about wine in Japan at the time, so I decided to study abroad and then return to Japan to establish my own business,” says Katsuko. She studied at the University of Burgundy’s Faculty of Oenology and spent her days studying to obtain the difficult certification of French National Oenologist (DNO).

It was during this time that she met Ken, a winemaker with whom she had much in common, and the two became comrades, talking about wine and improving each other.

Hokkaido, Donan, and Hokuto, where grape growing conditions are essential

The two naturally became partners. After Katsuko obtained her DNO and Ken obtained his DTO and other certifications, they returned to Japan and finally opened Bungetsu Vineyard in Hokuto City in 2011. The couple chose Hokuto City to fulfill their dream because it was an environment where they could grow grapes for their favorite wines.

We like wines with a strong acidity, which we describe as ‘full-flavored. It’s a little difficult to put into words, but we describe it as a wine that has flavor from the moment it is put into the mouth to the aftertaste. If the wine is not ripe, the taste in the mid-palate is blurred.

It is said that Naimoto wines tend to have a weak mid-palate. He chose Chardonnay, a white wine grape variety native to Burgundy, because it is a well-known grape variety. Although Chardonnay is a well-known grape variety, it is known as a kind of elusive grape variety that reflects the individuality of the terroir and the winemaker, rather than the distinctive character and flavor of the grape itself.

We focused on where the Chardonnay would be to our taste,” he said. Particular emphasis was placed on the effective total temperature. Generally, we calculate this by adding up the number of days during the period from grape budding to harvest (roughly from May to October in Hokuto City) when the temperature exceeds 10°C, which is the lower limit, and the portion of the days when the temperature exceeds 10°C.”

Using 10°C as a standard, they say that if the temperature is too low or too high, the quality of the grapes will be affected. The effective total temperature to achieve the taste of wine that Mr. and Mrs. Sasaki seek is approximately 1,200°C, and to narrow it down to that condition, the altitude is 1,000 m. “Even at the Yamanashi winery,” Mr. Sasaki said, “the conditions are not met.

There are wineries in Yamanashi that meet the criteria, but I thought it would be better to go to Hakodate or Hokuto, which are closer to my roots. And this area is cooler than others. I thought that if the grapes ripened slowly in the cold, they would taste the way I like them. If it is hot, the grapes need to be harvested earlier. Chardonnay grapes need to ripen slowly and be harvested with good acidity, so we need some time in the cooler fall months.

Chardonnay is said to prefer limestone soils. The well-drained, mineral-rich limestone of Hokuto fits the bill. The limestone from the Togatta mine behind the vineyard was also used to create an environment that allowed the unique terroir of Nogakura to be brought to bear on the flavor of the wine.

Nourakura’s philosophy of not daring to list the variety on the label

The year after the opening of his own farm, he established Nourakura in Hakodate, and by 2015, three years later, he and his wife Sasaki were able to harvest a decent amount of grapes from their own work. At the same time, however, they also sell wine made from high-quality grapes from contract farms in Yoichi Town in southern Hokkaido and elsewhere.

The main lineup includes the Nora series, which has a distinctive “This is Nourakura” character; the Nora-Pon series, which uses grapes from contract farms and is full of “Hokkaido character;” and the avant-garde Nora-Ken series, which is made with what Mr. and Mrs. Sasaki call “test-lot cuvées” and is freewheeling and free to do whatever they want. From vineyard work to vinification, the couple works alone to provide only what they are satisfied with.

They use wild yeast and do not use sulfites (antioxidants), which is also the Norakura style.

The wild yeast is clearly more complex and gives a more three-dimensional taste. Of course, there are cases where unintended complexity comes out, but it can be said that it adds depth to the flavor. It is also interesting that we, the winemakers, can control the unintended aspects during the aging period,” says Ken.

As for sulfurous acid, he says that it is partly a matter of taste, as the first sip is more snappy with sulfurous acid, but he also says that wines made with sulfurous acid are less compatible with food, especially seafood. He believes that this could be a fatal flaw for a wine from Hakodate, a seafood town.

Furthermore, it is Nourakura’s style not to put the grape variety on the label. The reason, he says, is that he wants people to simply enjoy the wine without preconceived notions. I think of the grape variety as a kind of symbol. Of course each grape variety has its own personality, but the most important thing is the “character of the region,” so we don’t go out of our way to show the grape variety. It is a very important theme for us to be able to bottle our wines without losing the character of the locality.

Passing on the art of wine and promoting it as a 6th industry

Mr. and Mrs. Sasaki say that as a winery in town, they have been able to convey the appeal of wine to many people. However, they also say that due to the limited space, they have had to ship their wines within a few months of bottling.

We really want the grapes to ferment as they like, so we want to keep the wine for at least six months after bottling. Then we don’t have the space. I believe that some wines have character that only comes out after aging.

He continues, “We also want to devote our energies to increasing the number of winemakers in Japan and spreading the techniques of winemaking.

We don’t increase the number of wineries because we have a philosophy of pursuing our ideals and offering what we are satisfied with, but we would like to increase the number and variety of wines by teaching the skills to those who aspire to be winemakers. For example, there is a clear difference between 10 wineries making and distributing one type of wine each, and one winery making 10 types of wine. The former has more diversity.”

Ken speaks softly, saying that he is willing to share the skills and knowledge he has actually cultivated, and that he thinks it is more interesting. He is also prepared to introduce the winery’s land to prospective winemakers.

I think it would be good to have a sixth industry that combines the arts with the livestock industry and the agriculture and water industry. To make wine and culture more culturally significant, it would be interesting to work with music and painting, regardless of genre.

Mr. and Mrs. Sasaki are planning to relocate the winery to a new location in order to improve the quality of their wines. The new location will include vineyards, a winery, and an auberge run by sommelier Motohiro Ogoshi. The Nourakura’s consistent philosophy of connecting people to each other through wine and expanding the world of wine will continue to be a modest, yet enjoyable endeavor.

The post Commitment to the Hakodate Winery “Nourakura” first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The taste is like nothing I’ve ever tasted anywhere else,” said Yoshihiro Hattori, president of LaLaLaFarm. Yoshihiro Hattori, president of LaLaLaFarm, was attracted by the nature of Niseko, which he learned about through his hobby of outdoor activities, and ventured into farming on his own, something he had never done before. After struggling with hardships, he came across “fermentation” and the philosophy behind vegetable farming.

Vegetables are sweeter in Niseko because of the large difference in temperature.

From summer activities to winter sports in winter, Niseko Town in Hokkaido has many tourism resources. As a resort town, Niseko has been attracting people from all over Japan and abroad. Yotei National Park to the east, Niseko Annupuri National Park to the north, and Mount Kombu to the southwest, Niseko is a hilly basin with a mild and comfortable climate from spring to summer, but in winter, snowfall can reach 2 meters due to the monsoon.

In winter, snowfall can reach 2 meters due to the monsoon. The town is fed by numerous clear streams, including the Shiribetsu River, which crosses the town from east to west. Niseko’s diverse climate and rich natural environment have also led to a thriving agricultural industry.

The difference in temperature between day and night, which is unique to the basin climate, brings sweetness to the vegetables. Mr. Hattori, head of LaLaLa Farm, grows extremely sweet tomatoes that take advantage of this climate under organic cultivation (natural cycle cultivation ). In addition to tomatoes, he also grows carrots, potatoes, onions, soybeans, and many other crops.

Producing the one and only “high-sugar” large tomatoes

LaLaLa Farm produces eight varieties of tomatoes, including large, original Aloito tomatoes, medium-sized tomatoes, and even miniature varieties. The tomato juice blended with the large tomatoes and other varieties is a gem loved by many for its “just sweetness. The juice is made from fruit tomatoes with a sugar content of 8 to 11 degrees. The sugar content of ordinary tomatoes is 3 to 4 degrees, so it is three times sweeter,” says Hattori.

One known method of producing sweet tomatoes is to reduce water and otherwise stress the tomatoes with water to reduce the inflow of water into the fruit. One such method is to add salt to the soil to make it difficult to absorb water due to osmotic pressure. However, the higher the sugar content, the smaller the fruit itself. This is why most “sweet” fruit tomatoes are medium-sized or miniature varieties.

That is why Representative Hattori insists on “large and sweet” tomatoes. It is a given that miniature tomatoes are sweeter and tastier. I wanted to produce tomatoes that only I could make.”

So he decided to take on the challenge of producing “sweet” tomatoes while keeping the fruit large and without losing any moisture. The key to this was the microorganisms in the soil. I realized that I could increase the number of microorganisms in the soil that were compatible with tomatoes.

When growing tomatoes, it is common practice to replace soil that has been grown once. This means that the microorganisms that had been living in the soil with the tomatoes are all gone. However, the same types of microorganisms are essentially circulating through the soil, feeding on each other. Mr. Hattori said that he felt uncomfortable replacing the soil when good tomatoes were produced.

He therefore turned his attention to the mechanism of “fermentation ” to speed up the soil decomposition cycle, which takes a long time. For tomatoes, we chop up the best tomatoes, leaves, fruits, and roots, dry them, mix them with soil, and ferment them. What would take nature three years to decompose takes only three weeks.”

It turns out that if you increase the number of quality “tomato microorganisms” and put them back in the same place, you can have a continuous crop. They discovered that they could produce large, sweet tomatoes without reducing the amount of water, which was also a prerequisite for producing sweet tomatoes.

Fermentation” is an essential part of LaLaLaFarm’s sweet tomato production that nurtures the rich soil. Mr. Hattori first encountered “fermentation” during his many hard-fought years as a farmer in Hokkaido.

From Nagoya to Niseko to become a farmer by himself

After graduating from university, Mr. Hattori entered the construction industry, the family business. Just before turning 30, he began to feel that he wanted to work in a way that was healthier, more like himself, and more respectful of nature. I wanted to work in a way that was healthier, more true to myself, and more respectful of nature.

The idea came to him from his travels by bicycle and motorcycle in the beautiful and vast landscapes of Hokkaido, and he thought, “Let’s go there first. He began to look for a place where he could study while working, thinking, “Let’s go there first, see and feel it. Niseko is a well-known tourist destination, with many hotels and restaurants, and a good sales channel. Niseko is also easily accessible, being only a two-hour drive from Sapporo and New Chitose Airport. I had visited Niseko in the winter for snowboarding, which I love, and I thought that I could work at the ski slopes and shovel snow from the facilities during the winter when farming is not available.

In fact, after two years of agricultural training in Niseko, Mr. Hattori decided that small-scale facility (plastic greenhouse) farming was a realistic option. He decided to focus mainly on tomatoes, which are widely eaten, and decided to study in Yoichi, where tomato cultivation is thriving. After returning to Niseko, he named his farm “LaLaLa Farm” in the hope of producing vegetables that he would enjoy and that would make the people who eat them say “LaLaLa” unintentionally. He also decided to grow vegetables in an organic way to make everyone happy and to be kind to nature and the environment, which he could not cherish in his previous job.

His interest in organic farming was further deepened when he met Akinori Kimura, who had come to Niseko to teach him before he started farming. Mr. Kimura is known for his “miracle apple” cultivation, which is completely pesticide-free and fertilizer-free, and is a charismatic figure admired by anyone interested in natural farming. Mr. Kimura’s teachings are strict, and I learned firsthand that farming is not so easy that the same methods can be applied to everyone.

However, his words carry weight, and the representative says he has been greatly influenced by them. Mr. Kimura’s words still remain in my mind: ‘The natural world is living in this way even without fertilizers and without cultivation.

Learning Fermentation at a Sake Brewery

From then on, the road to success was difficult. The harvest did not increase, and for about seven years, they had to continue trial and error. At one point, he was forced to work as a snowboard instructor because it was difficult to make a living as a farmer alone.

He had always been interested in the mechanisms of compost and fermentation, and during the winter season when farming was difficult, he began training as a brewer at the Niseko Brewery in Kutchan Town.

The brewery is located at the foot of Mt. Yotei, and in the winter, the heavy snowfall creates a snow screen that allows for slow, low-temperature fermentation. At the Niseko Brewery, I gained a deep insight into “speed brewing,” in which lactic acid is added to the sake to promote alcoholic fermentation. I was also sent to the Terada Brewery in Chiba, which is known for its natural sake brewing using pesticide- and chemical-free rice such as “Gojin Musume,” and was shown the traditional Kimoto brewing process.

After gaining experience as a brewer, Mr. Hattori began to wonder if he could utilize indigenous or local bacteria in his own farming. For example, miso has its own indigenous bacteria in it and cultivates its own bacteria outside of its own body. We used fermentation to do this in the soil of the fields and tried to reproduce natural conditions,” he says. This will live on greatly in terms of increasing the aforementioned high-quality “tomato microorganisms.

After two or three years of chopping and drying tomatoes at their best, both leaves, fruits, and roots, and mixing them with soil and fermenting them, he finally succeeded in increasing the yield and creating a condition where the sugar content of the tomatoes kept increasing. After 11 years of farming in Hokkaido, this was the moment when Mr. Hattori’s soil preparation finally bore fruit.

Trying to make wine using fermentation technology

In addition to tomatoes and related products, LaLaLa Farm also ships unique vegetables such asedible hozuki,micro cucumbers, and shallots. Another specialty, “fermented ginger,” is candied ginger that is fermented. Its unique flavor and aroma, which is not found in ordinary ginger ale that is not fermented, is gaining popularity for its “deep flavor. Utilizing the fermentation technology they have cultivated, they also sell miso and amazake made with koji, which are sold at roadside stations, restaurants in Hokkaido and Tokyo, and through mail order. His unique products, such as raayu made with koji, also shine.

Fascinated by the fermentation system, Hattori’s next interest turned to grapes. I was never much of a drinker,” he smiles, “but my desire to ferment grapes led me to drink wine every day. He says he wants to make original wines suited to Niseko’s climate and soil.

I think sparkling wines are best suited to Niseko,” he says. We are growing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir varieties, and this is the third year we are harvesting. We have only planted 1,000 vines, but we would like to try our hand at the volcanic ash soil and see if the tomato method lives up to the challenge.”

Making Everyone Happy with Nature’s Bounty

It has been 17 years since he started farming in Niseko, and he now has a family. What is important to him is to make everyone happy and smile with the connections he has made through farming and the products he produces. I would like to make wine from grapes and then open a winery. Eventually, I would like to set up an inn where customers and others can gather and learn about the wonders of fermentation.

What I feel through farming is that nature is a cycle, and fermentation is one of them. Fermentation is one of them. Niseko’s abundant nature is both harsh and gentle. In winter, the snow protects the soil, and we can prepare bacon and dry vegetables and fish to make preserved foods. Not to mention, food tastes great in the summer.”

The next stage for LaLaLaFarm, which makes use of nature’s blessing of fermentation to create unique vegetables, is wine making. Mr. Hattori’s new challenge has just begun.

The post We want to deliver vegetables that make you smile and hum “LaLaLa” without even realizing it. LaLaLaFarm, Yoshihiro Hattori, Niseko Town, Hokkaido first appeared on NIHONMONO.