Hekien Tea Junpei, located in Toyota City in the northern part of Aichi Prefecture, runs an integrated tea business from growing tea leaves to tea production and sales under the company motto, “Providing good tea to customers at a reasonable price. He won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award at the 2003 National Tea Fair (Shizuoka) and the following year at the National Tea Fair (Aichi). Mr. Yamauchi, who is dedicated to the cultivation of high-quality tea, is now striving to reestablish a coffee culture in which green tea is enjoyed in daily life in this age of diversifying beverage options.

Tea plantation that has been passed down since 1872

Toyota City in Aichi Prefecture is a corporate castle town where a major automobile manufacturer is located. Although the impression is that the manufacturing industry is thriving in the city, it is in fact surrounded by mountains and rich in nature. One of the thriving industries in Toyota City is the tea industry. The origin of this industry is said to date back to the Edo period (1603-1867), but it was not until the Meiji and Taisho periods (1868-1912) that the number of tea plantations increased and the industry flourished.

Originally, the area surrounding Toyota City had a mild climate, fertile soil, and abundant water, making it an ideal environment for tea production. In addition, the population of the area grew as modern industry flourished, a characteristic unique to the area. These two factors were major factors in the development of the tea industry.

The second generation’s greatness, which is also attached to the store name

Established in 1870, Hekien Tea Junpei handles all aspects of tea production from cultivation to tea making and sales. The seemingly unique trade name is named after the company’s second generation owner, Mr. Junpei Yamauchi. Mr. Junpei Yamauchi is well known in the industry as the creator of the “Mikawa-style tencha machine,” which is said to be the prototype of the “tencha machine” used in Japan today to produce “tencha,” the raw material for powdered green tea.

Tencha, as mentioned above, is the raw material for matcha, and refers to the state of the leaves before they are powdered. Like gyokuro, which is classified as one of the highest-grade Japanese green teas, the characteristic feature of this tea is that it is grown slowly and painstakingly under a shading material. Covered cultivation has the advantage of reducing the amount of light to suppress photosynthesis in the tea leaves, thereby reducing tannin, which is the source of the tea’s astringency, and mellowing the taste, while also allowing the leaves to spread wide and grow bright, dark green as they receive the maximum amount of sunlight. One major difference between gyokuro and gyokuro is that gyokuro does not go through the “rubbing” process in the manufacturing stage. In gyokuro, the tea leaves are rubbed to break down the cells so that the flavor can seep out easily, but in tencha, the tea leaves are not rubbed so that they can be ground easily and the cells are not broken because they are supposed to be ground into powder using a millstone.

Until around the Meiji era (1868-1912), the production of tencha was done by hand, but there was an urgent need to develop a tencha machine to cover the labor shortage caused by World War I, which occurred in the middle of the Taisho era (1912-1926). At that time, tea production areas such as Kyoto and Shizuoka also invented tencha machines, but the Mikawa-style machine invented by Junpei is said to be one of the earliest tencha machines. This device had a simple structure: a drying room about 7 meters long, 1 meter wide, and 2 meters high was built of bricks, a boiler was placed at the bottom, and steamed tea leaves were spread out on a rail attached at a height of about 50 cm from the bottom and pushed forward to dry by hand. In the handmade era, however, tea leaves were dried by hand on a workbench called a hoiro (roasting furnace), and the temperature of the furnace could only rise to about 120°C. With the advent of this equipment, however, the temperature of the furnace has risen to 180 to 200°C, and the quality of tencha has improved dramatically compared to the handmade days. In addition, the quality of the tea was stabilized due to the improved efficiency of the production process and the uniformity of the technology made possible by the mechanization. Junpei’s contribution to the development of the Tencha industry in Toyota City is said to have been significant, as he spread the word to other tea growers in the area.

Since then, improvements have been made in many areas of the country, and today, the process of steaming, cooling, drying, and separating the leaves from the stems can be done in a single process.

The company has inherited the spirit of such a great second generation. Mr. Shomasa Yamauchi, great-grandson of Mr. Junpei, currently serves as the fifth generation.

What does Shomasa consider “good tea”?

After the second generation, Mr. Junpei Yamauchi, made a great contribution to the modernization of the tencha industry, the third generation, Mr. Takeyoshi Yamauchi, expanded the cultivation area and laid the foundation for tea sales. The fourth generation, Kimio Yamauchi, expanded the sales channels nationwide, and the fifth generation, Shomasa Yamauchi, received the “Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award” and the “Prime Minister’s Award” at tea fairs. The company is the first tea producer in Aichi Prefecture to receive the “Prime Minister’s Award” in recognition of its honest tea production, as well as its community contribution activities, such as offering tea-picking experiences and lectures on tea culture, and serving tea to local residents.

Mr. Shomasa, who has devoted himself to the development of tea in a wide range of fields, has arrived at the definition of “good tea” as tea that has 100% of the power of the “tree” itself that sprouts the tea leaves. If the sprout of a tea plant has 100 points, our skill is to make tea without reducing the number of points from the top. For example, it is sweeter to eat the morning harvest right away compared to corn that has been harvested for a long time. In the same way, tea leaves have freshness. In our tea garden, tea is basically made within two hours of being picked,” Shozheng said, revealing his company’s commitment.

The company’s tea plantations grow different varieties of tea leaves from mountainous areas to flatlands. In the mountainous areas, where temperatures are cooler, they plant late harvesting varieties such as “Okumidori,” while in the plains, they plant early harvesting varieties to shift the harvest time as much as possible. By shifting the timing of sprouting, it is possible for limited staff to pick tea at the right time.

The tea produced in Toyota City is characterized by the fact that it is not heated as much as possible so that the original fresh aroma of the tea leaves can be enjoyed as it is. Therefore, the growing environment directly affects the flavor of the tea. That is why the company is thorough in creating an environment in which the roots are firmly rooted in the soil and the tea leaves absorb all the fertilizers given to them to grow strong tasting tea leaves.

The company manages its tea fields separately for hand-picked tea and machine-picked tea. In the case of hand-picked tea, the “one core, two leaves” method is basically used, where the “core,” which is the bud that has not yet opened, and the two tender leaves below it are picked from the tip of a single branch. This method is more cost-effective than mechanical picking, but it is not possible to pick all the leaves by hand. Is taste more important or is cost more important? The company makes different types of products to meet the needs of both types of consumers.

Delicious tea comes from the sense of touch.

Once plucked, the tea leaves are steamed and then dried while being rubbed. Currently, the company uses machines for the rubbing process for productivity reasons, but it is the experience of skilled craftsmen that makes important decisions when switching from one process to another. They grasp the tea and check with their hands to see how much moisture is left in the tea and how the tea is twisted before proceeding with the process. The “hands” of the craftsman are involved in the process. This is what makes a good tea.

The mindset of being a first-year student every year

Shomasa says that every year he works with the mindset of a “first-year tea maker. Although he has inherited the logbooks that have recorded machine settings and temperatures for generations, no two teas are ever the same, even if they are made at the same time in the same tea plantation. Because nature is the partner of tea production, it is difficult to quantify the process, and that is why it is so gratifying when the tea is produced exactly as intended.

The reason why he is so happy is not because he is satisfied with the quality of the product, but because he is able to deliver a product to the market that he is confident is delicious. At the core of the company’s business is always the desire to make consumers truly happy when they drink the tea they produce.

Their son Masahiro, now the sixth generation, is also involved in the tea business. His passion and effort for tea production, which is second to none, has transcended the ages and is being passed on to the next generation.

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Nishio City, located in the northwestern part of Aichi Prefecture, is one of the nation’s leading matcha tea production areas. Mr. Hiroki Inagaki of Yamafuji Seicha, a limited company that produces tencha, the raw material for Nishio’s matcha, which is registered as a regional brand, has won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award, the highest award at a national tea fair. What is Mr. Inagaki’s commitment to producing the best matcha in Japan?

The “best” matcha loved by the local people

Nishio City, Aichi Prefecture. Located near the mouth of the Yahagigawa River, a first-class river that flows from north to south in the center of the prefecture, the city is blessed with a rich water source and abundant soil, and is a major producer of agricultural and marine products. Among these, matcha (powdered green tea) is one of the most widely produced in Japan. It is also a major producer of tencha, the raw material for matcha. According to a 2021 survey by the National Federation of Tea Producers Associations, Aichi Prefecture is the fourth largest producer of powdered powdered green tea in Japan, following Kagoshima, Kyoto, and Shizuoka prefectures (according to a 2021 survey by the National Federation of Tea Producers Associations).
Not only in terms of production volume, but also in terms of quality, Nishio tea was awarded the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Prize, the highest prize at the 73rd National Tea Fair in 2021, making it the number one brand in Japan. The man who produced the tencha that won the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award is Mr. Hiroki Inagaki of Yamafuji Tea Manufacturing Co.

What is powdered tea?

To begin with, some people may not be familiar with the term “Tencha. As mentioned above, tencha is the raw material for matcha (powdered green tea), and refers to the state of the leaves before they are ground into a powder. Like gyokuro, which is classified as one of the most expensive types of Japanese green tea, tencha is cultivated under shade, which requires a lot of time and effort.

In the case of the tea leaves grown under shade, photosynthesis is suppressed by reducing the amount of light, thereby reducing the amount of tannin, which is the source of the tea’s astringency, resulting in a mellower taste. In addition, the leaves spread wide to maximize the amount of sunlight that is available, resulting in the growth of a bright, dark green color. The major difference between gyokuro and gyokuro is that gyokuro does not go through the “rubbing” process in the manufacturing stage. In gyokuro, the tea leaves are rubbed to break down the cells so that the flavor can seep out easily, but in tencha, the tea leaves are not rubbed to make them easier to grind because they are supposed to be ground into powder using a stone mortar.

Soil preparation is difficult because it is “invisible”.

Tea production in Nishio City is said to have begun more than 700 years ago. It was not until the Meiji period (1868-1912) that tea began to be cultivated in earnest, and since the late Taisho period (1912-1926), the production of matcha (powdered green tea) has been particularly active. Located on a delta formed near the mouth of the Yahagigawa River and its tributary, the Yahagikogawa River, Nishio City is said to be suitable for growing glossy tea leaves because of its sandy soil and mild climate. While the cultivation of high quality tea requires soil with good drainage, the good drainage also causes fertilizers to run off with the water.

The most difficult part of soil cultivation is that it is invisible,” says Inagaki. He uses rapeseed meal, which is the residue after oil is pressed from rapeseed, as a fertilizer to grow soil that maintains good drainage while preventing the fertilizer from running off. The rapeseed meal is a natural organic fertilizer that helps to build

up the soil and improve the sweetness and aroma of the tea.

A 100-point tea can only come from a 200-point fresh leaf.

Mr. Inagaki believes that “cultivation and processing after harvest are equally important” in making Tencha. Inagaki’s theory is that even if the raw leaves harvested during tea picking are close to 100 points, the score drops to 90, 80, and so on as they are processed. For this reason, he says, “It is important to aim for 100 points in cultivation technology, and to eliminate any points that can be deducted from the 100 points.

For example, determining when to start covering the leaves after new shoots appear is another technique to maximize the effects of cover cultivation. In addition, the best timing for fertilizer application and harvesting must also be determined. To do this, it is necessary to spend a lot of time in the field and cultivate experience. Mr. Inagaki proudly states, “By understanding and managing the characteristics of my fields, I am able to ensure consistent quality.

Taste is brought out by steaming, aroma by drying.

Steeping is very important to bring out the flavor of the tea leaves, and drying is very important to bring out the aroma. We pay particular attention to these two processes,” says Inagaki.

The harvested fresh leaves are first put into a steamer to stop oxidation. Excessive steaming will ruin the color and aroma of the leaves, while insufficient steaming time will leave them with a fishy smell, so time and temperature must be carefully adjusted. At Mr. Inagaki’s factory, he steams the leaves at 98 to 100°C for 10 seconds. After that, the steamed leaves are blown up by the wind to cool them down in a process called “scattering tea. The wind blows off the water on the surface of the leaves while separating them so that they do not overlap each other.

In the shadow of the matcha boom, the number of farmers continues to decline.

Latte with matcha green tea has become a standard menu item at famous café chains, and matcha-flavored sweets are always available at convenience stores. Matcha is no longer a fad, but has become an accepted part of consumers’ lives. On the other hand, the number of farmers producing matcha continues to decline. According to the Census of Agriculture and Forestry published by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, the number of tencha farmers decreased from 53,000 in 2000 to about 20,000 in 2015.

In addition, there is no market for tea leaves in Nishio City, so most tea leaves are traded relative to wholesalers. However, with the recent development of online markets and the emergence of e-commerce sites, wholesalers have become less influential than before. For tea farmers and processing companies that wholesale their products to wholesalers, this could be a matter of life and death.

Even if we produce high quality products, if they don’t sell, there is nothing we can do,” Inagaki said. Inagaki says, “Even if you produce high quality products, if you can’t sell them, there is nothing you can do.

Initiatives Focused on Overseas Markets

In this context, Mr. Inagaki is working to acquire various certifications with an eye on overseas markets. Overseas markets tend to favor organically grown products and fair trade products, and in some cases, producers may not even be able to sell their products unless they have actually obtained some kind of certification.

For example, by acquiring the Rainforest Alliance, an international certification program that promotes sustainable agriculture, the company is able to sell its products to major food manufacturers in the United States. The company hopes to be among the first to tackle these issues and win the trust of overseas markets.

The Future of Matcha in Nishio

Tea leaves grown in Nishio City and its surrounding areas are certified as a regional brand by the Japan Patent Office as “Nishio’s Matcha”. In Nishio City, farmers and companies have a history of research to improve the quality of Tencha (powdered green tea) under the theme of “Matcha for eating,” which can be used as an ingredient for food, rather than just for beverage use.

Currently, more than 90% of the matcha produced in Nishio City is used in processed products such as confectionery and ice cream, and of course, matcha for beverages is also highly regarded. However, the city is still not as well known as other matcha-producing regions. Mr. Inagaki says, “Local children know that Nishio is famous for its matcha (powdered green tea) through the stone-milling experience and other activities, but in the end it is only done within the local community. We need to do more to promote it outside of Nishio,” Inagaki said, expressing a sense of crisis.

Overseas demand for green tea, including matcha, has been increasing year by year, with exports topping 20 billion yen for the first time in 2021. As the demand for products is expected to diversify, Inagaki says, “We must always have the ability to listen to new information and respond to it. The day is not far off when Japan’s No.1 Tencha will reach people all over the world.

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A pale color with deep taste

Shizuoka is known for being a tea producing area, but within Shizuoka, the most famous green tea producing town is Kawane Honcho. Located in the Midwest of Shizuoka prefecture, it is located in an area where the Oi River flows. When we arrived at Takada farm, they treated us to green tea right away. We noticed the color was a bit pale.
”Everybody who comes to interview us are surprised. Looks like the tea leaves are spent, right?” Takada’s wife laughed.
”First, please take a sip.” Yoshio Takada asked us, and we took a sip.

The tea had a strong and deep taste and aroma, making Nakata exclaim ”Oh!”. And there is a sweet aftertaste which lingers. It is strange because the color is so pale. When tea leaves are picked early, even before ”ichibancha”, they are pale but have a strong delicious taste, they told us.

Commitment to tea production

Among the Kawane teas, the most famous is ”sencha”. Takada Farm, has won numerous awards including the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Award in national tea contests. About 14 years ago, they started making half fermented ”kettle roasted tea” close to oolong tea. A product called ”Kaorikko”, which is a packaged set of the kettle roasted tea ”Koshun” and ”Benifuki” sold together, was awarded the highest gold medal in the World Green Tea Contest held in 2010.

”What is the most important thing in making the best tea?”
”To carry out each task carefully and precisely. If we become careless, that is reflected in the tea, so we should make sure that we manage each technique properly.” Takada told us.

Takada Farm has their own farmland and produce their own products. That is, they cultivate their own tea leaves and perform all of the manufacturing processes such as roasting themselves. That is why they cannot mass produce. But because of that, they are able to stick to their philosophy, and conduct extensive research. Delicate sensitivity is needed to do this job since the slightest difference in the variety of the tea leaves and dryness affect the taste and smell of the tea. When asked what kind of tea they are aiming for, Takada answered, ”Tea that is so delicious that people want a second cup.”

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Good tea leaves make delicious milk tea

”If the tea doesn’t taste good, the taste of milk would overwhelm it.”
As he said this, Matsumura served us ”Benifuki” milk tea which is ”one of the best tea from Maruko Tea”, according to him.
We sipped the tea. We can smell the strong aroma of the tea within in the sweetness of the milk, and the scent passes through our nostrils. Even Nakata, who does not usually drink milk tea, quickly finished off his cup.

Maruko Tea produces pure domestic tea leaves.
Perhaps English black tea is most famous with the world renowned brand ”Lipton”, and areas such as Ceylon and Assam in India are known for producing the tea leaves. Black tea produced in Japan might not be familiar.

Committed to creating purely domestic black tea

The production of black tea leaves in Japan started when a man named Genkichi Tada brought the original Assam tea tree to Japan at the beginning of the Meiji era. Genkichi was already producing tea in Maruko, so he started black tea production from there.
The effort came to fruition as he succeeded in exporting black tea, and it started to be grown all over Japan.
However, with the turmoil of World War II and the liberalization of black tea import after the war, domestic production of black tea declined, and the Assam trees in Maruko almost disappeared. It was at that time when Niroku Muramatsu who served us the milk tea, took up the effort to protect the original Assam tree and restarted the domestic production of black tea.

Muramatsu flew to Sri Lanka many times. He learned about the technology for more than 10 years from 1989, and finally reached the present form of Maruko Tea.
He succeeded in obliterating the impression that Japanese black tea was too light in color and had a weak taste by developing a tea with a strong and deep flavor and aroma.
There are three types of teas; ”Benifuki”,”Benihikari” and ”Honyama”. Among those, ”Benifuki” is rather expensive, but the black tea connoisseurs remark consider it to be quite exquisite, placing a lot of faith in its taste and quality.

Expanding pure domestic black tea

Muramatsu flies all over Japan in order to spread the technology he acquired, and holds presentations and instructs other producers about the technology.

”Our president does not keep the technology a secret. Instead, he teaches it to everyone.”, one of the employees told us. The original tree which he continues to protect, and many years he spent on research, has been utilized in many regions to create an even better tasting Japanese black tea.

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How tea leaves become refined tea leaves

Shoji Mochizuki is a green tea farmer who performs all the steps involved in tea manufacturing at his farm, from cultivation to processing.
The most popular product is ”Sakura Kaori”. It is a superb product with a soft aroma like cherry leaves.

Many steps are required before the tea leaves from the field can be used to make tea. After being picked from the fields, the leaves are steamed. When the raw leaves are steamed, it stops the oxidation process, preventing the leaves from fermenting.

After that, the leaves are put through primary and secondary tea drying rollers, and then the final tea drying roller. The temperature of the leaves must be kept at about the same as body temperature in humans. The rolling gradually brings the moisture to the surface, and being careful not to let the leaves become too dry, the leaves are dried with light air for about 4 hours. There is a distinct difference in the shape, color, taste and scent depending on who handles the process to this point.

The tea praised by the team master, Fumio Maeda

Finally, the leaves are put into a dryer and adjust until only about 5% of the moisture remains. If the temperature is too high, it will smell smoky, so great care needs to be given. The leaves are then sorted and blended for the final product.
”The quality of the raw tea leaves determines the quality of the tea. You cannot make dried tea leaves better than they were in their original state. This means the raw leaves must have the highest quality possible. The next important thing is to process the leaves so that the quality is maintained, while also extracting its features.” Mochizuki told us.

Then Mochizuki showed Nakata a type of unprocessed tea called ”aracha”.
”Aracha” is the raw tea leaves that has been rolled and dried, before it is roasted.
Mochizuki’s ”aracha” had made an impression on the tea master, Fumio Maeda, who had introduced us to Mochizuki. His comments were ”It’s truly splendid. I had never seen ”aracha” where each tea leaf stretched out so evenly.”
Nakata took some in his palm and put them in his mouth. ”It’s good. Savory. There is a firm taste.”
When we made it into tea tried it, it had very mild taste.

”Roasting is when the wholesalers look at the leaves, and they try to make each batch of leaves special by deciding, for example, it should be roasted with stronger heat. But you can make good cup of tea with aracha too.” explained Mochizuki.

Mochizuki’s aracha make a yellowish colored tea called ”golden transparent (Kanshoku Tomei)”.
The raw tea tastes different from tea we usually drink.
One hardly come across an aracha in the market. This was a precious experience.

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Establishing the standard for ”supreme” quality

”Kikicha” determines the variety, origin and quality of tea leaves by looking at the color or the shape of the tea leaves and examining the color, aroma and the taste of the tea.
Fumio Maeda is known as the ”kikicha” master among all tea masters.
After being in the tea business for only 2 years, he entered a national contest for the National Tea Technology Competition. He placed 10th place in his first competition, earning ”rokudan” (6th level) certification. At the competition held in 1997, his performance earned him a score that would place him above the highest existing rank of ”kyudan” (9th level). An emergency meeting of the council was held where they established a new ”judan” (10th level). It is now said that ”judan” was created just for Maeda.

When we visited Maeda’s company, they served us cold green tea.
”I really prefer green tea these days.” Nakata commented.
We learned the basics about tea, which is such a familiar part of our lives, yet we knew so little about it.

”Blending” to make better tea

There are green tea blends. This technique is called ”gogumi”.
By blending several kinds of tea leaves, the aroma, sweetness, bitterness and astringency can be balanced, bringing out a deeper flavor. The leaves are blended to make better tasting tea.
Maeda specializes in this. He blends using his ability to differentiate aroma, and his extensive knowledge about tea.

Maeda asked Nakata to try, and Nakata accepted the challenge.
Combining tea leaves from Miyazaki, Kochi and Shizuoka to make 100g of blended tea. Each tea has a clearly distinct taste.
The result is ”an aromatic tea with impact”, according to Maeda.
”This is interesting. And it’s quite good too.” Maeda said, but Nakata admitted ruefully, ”I wanted it to be little milder.

The best balance of bitterness, astringency, sweetness and aroma is at 70 degrees

At the end Nakata asked, ”How do you brew a delicious pot of tea?”
Maeda said, ”70 degrees is the best temperature to drink tea. 70 degrees is where bitterness, astringency, sweetness and aroma harmonize.”
”However, there are individual preferences. It’s best for people to find their own temperature, as well as the amount of tea leaves that they like.”

Tea is a Shizuoka specialty, but It’s also produced in various parts of Japan, each with its own uniqueness.
This also is one of the big attractions of Japan. The visit inspired us to treasure each pot of tea we brewed.

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Restoring tea farms at birthplace of Yamato tea

Kazuto Hazama and Kenichi Igawa, both of whom work at the ”Kenichi Shinzen Nouen”, are 2 people Nakata coincidentally ran into at ”Akame Natural Farming School” when he was visiting Mie. They had been attending the school to learn about natural farming. Igawa works to restore the abandoned tea farms in Nara by natural methods. This roused Hazama’s interest, and soon he left his job to join him.
Kenichi Nouen is located in the Yamato planes northeast of Nara. In 2005, the location was renamed and was transferred to become a part of Nara, but before this, the area was called Tsuge and was a popular district for Yamato tea. The altitude is 400 m – 500 m above sea level, causing heavy snow during the winter, and thus is referred to as the ”Hokkaido of Yamato”. The temperature difference between night and day is great, which is ideal for tea cultivation.

No Excess Labor

What the two are trying to do is to restore this farmland with the help of nature. They have been successful to an extent that now harvest can be expected in a couple of areas.
Their policy is leaving it to the hands of nature, not putting in excess labor. They will trim the shrubs if they grew too much and cover the tea, but otherwise, they cultivate the tea leaves without doing much else. Nara’s production of tea ranks 6th in the country. It is a city that had traditionally been very close to Buddhism and tea. In Nara, the two youths are successfully restoring tea farms with the aid of nature.

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