Approximately 40 minutes by car from Hakata. Dazaifu City, located in the midwestern part of Fukuoka Prefecture, was the site of Dazaifu, an administrative institution that controlled Kyushu from the late 7th to the late 12th century. Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane, known as the god of learning, was established here in 903 and continues to weave its history to this day.

The head shrine of Tenmangu Shrine, which enshrines “Tenjin-sama

Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine is the head shrine of the approximately 10,000 Tenmangu shrines that exist throughout Japan. Tenmangu” is a shrine dedicated to Sugawara Michizane (the god of heaven), who lived during the Heian period (794-1185). What kind of person was Sugawara Michizane?

A man of learning and politics

Born into a family of scholars on June 25, 845, Sugawara no Michizane became familiar with waka poetry and Chinese poetry at an early age and developed his talents as a scholar in his youth. He was also a foresighted reformer, and was one of the first to foresee world affairs and abolish the Tang Dynasty’s envoys to China.
However, due to a plot by Fujiwara no Tokihira, who was jealous of his talent, he was exiled to Dazaifu, far away from Kyoto. Nevertheless, Michizane never bore a grudge against heaven or man, but prayed for the prosperity of the country and the safety of the emperor until the end of his life, which ended on February 25, 903, at the age of 59. Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine is the tomb of Sugawara no Michizane, and has since become a place of prayer where he is revered as the god of heaven. The fact that the tomb and shrine are located in the same place is rare in Japan.

Toward the 1125th anniversary

Venerable shrines hold a shinkosai or rebuild their halls every few years or decades. At Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, it is every 25 years. The reason for this is that the number 25 is closely associated with Michizane, whose birthday is June 25 and the date of his death is February 25. In fact, it was on January 25th that he was ordered to leave the prefecture. The year 2027 will mark the 1,125th anniversary of Michizane’s death. Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine is undergoing major renovation of the main shrine, an important cultural property, for the first time in 124 years in preparation for this year’s ceremonial grand festival.

From the nature-rich forests of Dazaifu

Major renovations will begin in 2023 and last approximately three years. During this period, the temporary hall was established as a place to welcome worshippers. The temporary shrine is designed by architect Sousuke Fujimoto, who is active both in Japan and abroad and is also the producer of the venue design for the 2025 Osaka-Kansai World Exposition. He visited Dazaifu many times and was impressed by the forest surrounding Tenmangu Shrine, which helped him to formulate his image for the building.

The Legend of Tobiume at Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine

The idea was inspired by the “Tobibai Legend” of Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine. When Michizane left Kyoto, he composed a farewell poem to the plum tree he had loved in the garden of his own residence, saying, “If the east wind blows, bring me a fragrance, plum blossoms, for I will remember spring even if my master is gone. The story goes that the plum blossoms flew to Dazaifu and took root there in just one night. This is where the concept of the temporary shrine, “a vast forest flew in front of the main shrine,” originated.

Incidentally, there are approximately 6,000 ume trees in the precincts of Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, which bloom beautifully from late January to early March each year. The ume fruits are harvested by the staff and sold as pickled plums and ume wine at the “Oshaku Omamori (talisman for good luck charms) Awarding Office.

Shaping Tenmangu in Co-Existence with Nature

The mitobari and kicho (folding screens) inside the temporary hall are also noteworthy. They were made by “Mame Kurogouchi,” a fashion brand that has exhibited at the Paris Collection and other fashion shows. Mr. Kurogouchi visited Dazaifu many times, and while consulting a variety of materials, he put together the concept for this project. The pattern depicted in the book is a scene he saw one rainy day when he took shelter from the rain in a hole in a camphor tree on the shrine’s grounds. The book also looks at the deep relationship between Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine and nature, and uses threads dyed with plums and grasses from the shrine’s grounds. Using a modern loom, the intersection of the ancient and the modern was also woven into the expression.

To stay the same, keep changing

To reach the temporary shrine, visitors pass through the torii gate from the busy approach and cross three red drum bridges over Shinji-ike, a pond said to have been built by Michizane’s pupils. The bridges represent the past, present, and future from the front, and crossing over the water is said to be a way to purify the body and mind and to bring one closer to Tenjin-sama. After crossing the bridge, the dignified vermilion-lacquered tower gate rises up, and beyond the gate, the temporary shrine building, which is one with nature, is revealed.

When the renovation of the main hall is completed, the temporary hall will be dismantled, but the plants on the roof will return to the forest. The plants on the roof will return to the forest. During these three years, visitors may especially feel the Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine’s value of “continuing to change in order to stay the same. In addition to worshipping at the shrine, visitors are encouraged to experience the divine virtues of Tenjin-sama through prayers recited by the priests in the temporary shrine.

Encounter art in the precincts of the temple

When you stroll through the shrine grounds after praying and visiting the shrine, you will see the treasure house that holds cultural properties related to Michizane and the access tunnel to the Kyushu National Museum, which was opened after 120 years of efforts by four generations of priests to attract the opening of the museum. Because Michizane excelled not only in learning but also in waka poetry and Chinese poetry, he is also known as a god of culture and the arts, and Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine has devoted itself to various efforts in this field.

In 2006, the Dazaifu Tenmangu Art Program began, a project in which artists active in Japan and abroad are invited to Dazaifu to experience Shinto, Tenjin, and Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, and to incorporate what they feel into artwork that will last for 100 years or even 1,000 years. Some of the works created in the program are installed outdoors and can be viewed while strolling the shrine grounds, hence the name “precincts art museum.

Tour 10 unique works

On the right side of the approach to the shrine, past the torii gate, is an installation of British artist Ryan Gander’s work “Really shiny stuff that doesn’t mean anything ©Ryan Gander, 2011 Courtesy of TARO NASU. Ryan Gander, 2011 Courtesy of TARO NASU” is installed. Gander was struck by the sight of worshippers praying to “invisible things,” and this work represents that “invisible power” with magnetic force.
(The work may not be on display due to shrine events, etc.)

In the plum grove by the Treasure House is another work by Ryan Gander, “Everything is learned, VI Everything is understood VI ©Ryan Gander, 2011 Courtesy of TARO NASU. At first glance, it appears to be a “rock” with the top worn off, but it is an imaginative representation of Rodin’s sculpture “The Thinker,” who contemplated on the stone, got up, said “I understand everything,” and left. Other works include Lawrence Weiner’s “THE CENTER OF A CENTER ©Lawrence Weiner, 2020 Courtesy of TARO NASU,” painted directly on asphalt, and Simon Fujiwara’s “The Problem,” a work that makes us think about the future of children’s handprints. As of April 2024, ten works are on display at the Precinct Museum, including Simon Fujiwara’s “The Problem of Time©Simon Fujiwara, 2013 Courtesy of TARO NASU,” which makes us think about the future of children’s handprints.

What would Tenjin-sama think?

Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine is promoting this program because of the thought of how Michizane Sugawara, who always looked at the cutting edge of the times, would think if he were alive today. Whenever I have any doubts about the selection of artists or the creation of artwork, I always think, ‘Would Tenjin-sama be pleased with this project? And even after the project has begun, we always try to build a relationship of trust between the shrine and the artists, so that neither side is left to itself,” says Hiroko Takayama, a senior priest in charge of the project.

Those who want to feel the richness of nature, experience Shintoism, and art, and those who want to deepen these experiences. ……
Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine will continue to move with the times, nurturing the “invisible things” that move the hearts of many people.

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Takahashi City is located in the midwestern part of Okayama Prefecture. Bitchu Matsuyama Castle stands on Gagyuzan Mountain, which rises to the north of the city. The castle is one of the “12 existing castle towers” that were built before the Edo period and have been preserved. The castle is one of the “12 existing castle towers” that were built before the Edo period and is the only mountain castle with a preserved castle tower.

Tracing the History of Bicchu Matsuyama Castle

Bitchu Matsuyama Castle is located at an elevation of 430 meters above sea level. Because of its elevation and topography, a “sea of clouds” can easily form, and can often be seen. The castle tower appears to float in the sea of clouds, which is beautiful and has been described as a “mountain castle in the sky.

According to Mr. Noriaki Miura of the Education Division of the Takahashi City Board of Education, “Takahashi City is characterized by a mortar-shaped basin topography, which makes it easy for the sea of clouds to stay in place. This makes it a place where you can encounter a sea of clouds with a high probability. The best season for cloud seas is considered to be from October to December. The fantastic sight can be seen from the “Sea of Clouds Observatory” located in the northeastern part of the castle.

Castles evolve as their owners change

Gagyuzan, on which Bitchu Matsuyama Castle stands, is named for its shape like a cow lying down, and consists of four peaks: Omatsuyama, Tenjin-no-maru, Komatsuyama, and Maeyama.
In 1240, a fort was built on Omatsuyama by Shigenobu Akiba, a landowner at that time, and this is said to be the beginning of Bitchu Matsuyama Castle. When the castle came under the control of the Tokugawa Shogunate after the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600, Masatsugu Kobori, Masakazu (Enshu) and his son were assigned to this area as magistrates. It is said that they began repairing the palace and castle.

In 1642, Mizunoya Katsutaka became the lord of the castle. His son, Katsumune, spent about three years from 1681 to complete a large-scale renovation of the castle, including the construction of turrets and a major gate, and completed the entire castle as it stands today.
In 1868, the Bicchu-Matsuyama Clan was regarded as a morning enemy in the Boshin War, a conflict between the new Meiji government forces and the old shogunate forces. The castle was opened without bloodshed, thanks to the decision of Yamada Houkoku and others, a scholar of the Yomei school of thought, who were working on reforming the domain government at the time. The castle was thus spared from being destroyed.

From forgotten to town-wide preservation and restoration

Although the castle survived the crisis for a time, in 1873, the “decree for the abolition of castles” was promulgated. Bitchu Matsuyama Castle was put up for auction by the national government, and although it is said that local residents purchased the castle, it was left unattended because it was too expensive to dismantle everything on top of the mountain. Because of its location, the castle has passed through time without being seen by anyone. Before long, the existence of the castle itself was forgotten, and it became a desolate castle.

A major turning point came in 1927. A full-scale investigation of the castle began, led by a teacher at a local junior high school who knew the history of Bitchu Matsuyama Castle and recognized its value. The existence of the castle, which even the local residents did not know, came to light, and momentum for its preservation gradually grew.
From 1939 to 1940, the castle underwent a major Showa-era renovation. In 1939-1940, the castle underwent a major renovation in the Showa period (1926-1989), during which students from local elementary and junior high schools and girls’ schools carried some 20,000 tiles up to the castle at the top of the mountain, as shown in photographs. It seems that the entire town was involved in the restoration of the castle,” said Miura. Since then, the castle has undergone three major renovations, in 1957 and 2000.

The building has never been damaged by war or natural disasters, and has remained as it was in the past.

To reach the keep, visitors walk for about 20 minutes along a steep mountain path from the Fuigotoge parking lot at the 8th station. As you approach, you will see stone walls piled on top of natural rocks. Some of the stone walls were built to incorporate the 10-meter-high towering bedrock, and the power of the walls is overwhelming. The stonewalls that take advantage of the mountain terrain are another highlight of the castle.
The castle tower is a two-story, two-tiered building with a wooden tile roof. At approximately 11 meters high, it is the lowest of the 12 existing keepers, but boasts a distinctive appearance with a karahafu (Chinese gable) on the front of the keep.

On the first floor, there is a sunken hearth, which is rare for a castle tower, and the “Syozoku-no-Ma,” which served as the living quarters of the castle’s lord and his family. It is thought that he intended to have the town of Takahashi protected from the highest point of the castle.

Miura says, “We believe that the castle tower has survived to the present day because the area was not subjected to air raids during the war and was not prone to earthquakes or other natural disasters.

Welcoming the cat castle owner, Sanjuro, the castle is now equipped with a new charm.

Bicchu Matsuyama Castle has a history of changing owners as time goes by. The current lord of the castle is a cat!　

The cat, which was originally kept in Takahashi City, left its owner’s home after the heavy rains in western Japan in 2008 and came to live at the castle. Rumors spread that “there is a cute cat in the castle,” and it quickly became popular after being introduced on local TV and in newspapers. The cat was protected by the Takahashi City Tourist Association and named “Sanjuro” after Tani Sanjuro, a samurai from the Bitchu Matsuyama domain who was a Shinsengumi commander of the 7th Squadron, and because the first place he was found was in the San-no-maru area. He was to live in the “Five Flat Tower,” where the castle’s administrative offices are located.

Due to his popularity, on December 16, 2018, he was appointed as the owner of the cat castle. Depending on his condition and mood, Sanjuro can be seen twice a day during his walks around the castle.
In March 2024, a memorial hall “Ashiato Kan (Ashiato Museum for Cat Lord Sanju-roo)” opened in the former Haniwara family residence in Ishibiya-cho, located at the southern foot of Gagyu Mountain, where Bitchu Matsuyama Castle is built. Its popularity knows no bounds.

Bitchu Matsuyama Castle” is the only mountain castle in Japan where the Edo period castle tower still exists as it was in those days. The view of the castle tower floating in the sea of clouds attracts visitors as it has done since the old days. Thinking about the history of this castle and the fantastic scenery that the people of that time must have seen, we hope to continue to protect it as a scenic spot that Okayama Prefecture should be proud of in the future.

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In a small town with a population of about 10,000 in Kamitakai County, Nagano Prefecture, there is a temple that is well worth a visit. It is Ganshoin, a Soto Zen temple located in Obuse Town, famous for its chestnut confections. This temple, where you can see masterpieces by the famous ukiyo-e artist Katsushika Hokusai, who was all the rage during the Edo period, attracts many tourists throughout the year.

Obuse Town is popular for sightseeing and confectioneries made with chestnuts.

Obuse Town, home to Gansho-in Temple, is located in the northern part of Nagano Prefecture, the same region as Hakuba Village, famous for skiing. Despite being the smallest municipality in the prefecture in terms of area, it preserves a rich history and traditional culture. The town is known for its picturesque streets and popular confectionery shops that specialize in chestnut-based sweets, making it one of the top tourist destinations in the prefecture. Gansho-in Temple is one of Obuse Town’s tourist attractions, attracting a steady stream of sightseeing buses during the season.

The stage where Kobayashi Issa recited a poem about himself, “Gansho-in”

“Skinny frog, don’t give up, Issa, here I am.” This is a poem by Kobayashi Issa, a poet from Shinano Province (now Nagano Prefecture) who, along with Matsuo Basho and Yosa Buson, is considered one of the leading haiku poets of the Edo period. It describes a small, thin frog fighting with a larger frog over a female frog. It is said that Ichiyō composed this haiku to encourage himself, drawing parallels between his own circumstances and those of the frogs. The pond where this scene took place is located at Gansho-in Temple.

The History of Gansho-in Temple

Founded in 1472, this temple has undergone many changes, including two fires, before reaching its current form. It is also famous as the family temple of Fukushima Masanori, a warlord known as one of the “Seven Spears of Shizugatake” and a close confidant of Toyotomi Hideyoshi.

Originally a vassal of the Toyotomi clan, Fukushima Masanori switched allegiance to the Tokugawa clan. In 1619, he was accused of violating the military regulations and had his lands in Hiroshima, which he was then governing, confiscated. He was exiled to the Shinetsu region, a punishment similar to demotion. At that time, Fukushima Masateru, who was a devout follower of Zen Buddhism, is said to have designated the temple as his family temple in his new domain.

The main attraction for tourists is Katsushika Hokusai’s masterpiece.

The main attraction for tourists visiting here is the “Hachiman Phoenix Painting” depicted on the ceiling of Oma. This is the work of Katsushika Hokusai, a ukiyo-e artist who left behind many masterpieces such as “Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji.” Hokusai created this work during his later years while staying in Obuse Town. At the age of 88, Hokusai, with the full support of Takai Kōzan, a wealthy merchant from Obuse whom he had known in Edo, enlisted the help of his daughter, Katsushika Ōi, a ukiyo-e artist, and other craftsmen to complete this painting over the course of about a year.

The enormous phoenix painting covering the entire ceiling is said to be the largest of Hokusai’s works. Its powerful brushwork, which seems to leap off the canvas, and its vivid colors, which remain as vibrant as ever despite never having been repainted, captivate viewers. However, when it comes to sacred beasts painted on temple ceilings, the image of a dragon is probably more familiar nationwide.

So why a phoenix at Gansho-in Temple?

The head priest of Gansho-in Temple, Watanabe Masami, explains his interpretation of the “Eight-Direction Gazing Phoenix Painting.”

According to the head priest, Watanabe Masami, while there are no records in literature, he suggests that the inspiration for this work may lie in the thoughts of Takai Kōzan, who encouraged Hokusai to create it and was the project’s greatest collaborator. Takai Kōzan strongly felt the Buddhist concept of “impermanence” (mujō), which means “nothing in the world is permanent; everything is constantly changing,” in the world at that time. Hokusai, who understood this, may have depicted the “phoenix,” which represents the opposite of “impermanence,” or “eternity.” While this is merely Watanabe’s speculation, if it were true, it would be a touching story of the strong trust built between Hokusai and Takai Kōzan, who were nearly a generation apart, and the dramatic legacy they left behind in Nagano Prefecture with this masterpiece of the century.

Head priest Masami Watanabe and Gansho-in Temple

This year marks Mr. Watanabe’s eighth year as head priest. Before becoming a priest, he worked as a salaryman for 14 years. He graduated from the economics department of university, but did not major in Buddhism. However, his mother’s family home was Gansho-in Temple, so he had been familiar with Zen since childhood and was interested in it.

His interest deepened during his backpacking travels as a salaryman. Visiting Christian and Islamic regions, he encountered various religions, which prompted him to reflect anew on Buddhism and his own roots in Zen. Now, as the head priest of Gansho-in Temple, he draws on his experiences as a salaryman before entering the Buddhist order, as well as his diverse experiences as a traveler, to deliver sermons that follow the centuries-old Zen tradition while adding his own interpretations.

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Toyama Prefecture is famous for its magnificent mountains, including Kurobe-dake, the beautiful Toyama Bay, and the glass art that has been nurtured by the culture of medicine sales. However, it is probably not widely known that the prefecture has the third largest number of temples in Japan. Even in a city where Buddhism is deeply rooted, many people from all over the country visit the popular power spot of Oiwasan Nissekiji in the town of Kamishiro, Shinkawa-gun.

Oiwasan Nissekiji, the head temple of the Shingon Mikkyo sect, which boasts a history of 1,300 years.

The Daiwa-san Hiei-ji temple, a Shingon esoteric Buddhist temple, was founded in 725, about 1,300 years ago, and enshrines Fudo Myo-o as its principal deity. The town of Kamiichi, in the Nakasugawa district of Toyama Prefecture, where the temple is located, is a town where nature and culture coexist, with the peaks of the Northern Alps, including the main peak of Tsurugidake (2,999 meters above sea level), visible in the southeast. Tsurugidake has long been a mountain of mountain worship, with temples and shrines nearby, and Hieizan is also a popular power spot with the locals.

The charm of the temple, which has been called “Oiwa no Fudo-san” (Fudo of Oiwa) and is well-known

One of the reasons it is considered a power spot is probably the great variety of Buddhist statues and buildings that can be found within Nisseiji Temple. One of these, the nationally designated historic site and important cultural property “Daiganzan Nisseiji Magai Butsu (Buddhist statues carved into the rock) Fudō Myōō Zō (image of Fudō Myōō)” is a stone Buddha statue that boasts the largest scale in Hokuriku. The 313cm high statue of Fudo Myo-o and the 214cm high statues of the two attendants, carved into a huge tuff wall, are works from the late Heian period and are known as relics of mountain Buddhism. The huge Fudo Myo-o statue, which is carved at a slight angle, has a powerful presence, as if it is about to speak to you.

In addition, there are many other buildings at Nisseiji Temple that are said to bring good fortune, such as the oldest three-storied pagoda in Toyama Prefecture, the Aizen-do Hall, which is said to bring good fortune in love and fertility, the Agaku-kutsu Cave, which is said to ward off evil, the Jizo-do Hall, which is said to bring good fortune in life and longevity, and the Meoto-iwa (Husband and Wife Rocks), which are said to bring good fortune in marriage. Perhaps this is why Nisseiji Temple is considered a power spot, as it is able to accommodate the wide-ranging wishes of its visitors in one place.

To the left of the main hall is the sacred water “Fujimizu”, which has been selected as one of the “66 Famous Waters of Toyama” . It is called Fujimizu because it gushes forth from a wisteria tree, and it is also famous as a sacred water that is beneficial for the eyes. About 300 years ago, a peasant who was blind received a dream telling him that “washing your eyes with the water that gushes forth from the roots of the wisteria tree at Hieizan Temple will help you see”.

With anecdotes like this, it is said that the Kaga clan has many famous doctors but no eye doctors, because the great doctor of the Oiwa Fudōsan shrine cures eyes. Fujimizu water can be collected for free, and many people visit every day. By the way, it is said that chanting the mantra of Fudō Myōō is even better when collecting this water, so please give it a try.

A genuine “waterfall training” experience that purifies the body and mind with the five senses

Nisshō-ji Temple is famous for its various ascetic practices, including waterfall training, Buddhist statue painting, and visits to the 88 sacred sites of the Shikoku pilgrimage, as well as for its connection to mountain worship and the Shugendō mountain asceticism tradition. At the Roppon Waterfall, which is located right next to the main hall, you can cleanse your body and mind by washing away the “six desires” that arise from the six roots of perception (the eyes, ears, nose, tongue, body, and mind) as taught by Buddha, by dressing in white and immersing yourself in the water. The solemn and extraordinary waterfall experience that can only be had here will surely enhance the power spot effect. Incidentally, the six dragon heads from which the waterfall flows are said to represent earth, water, fire, wind, space and consciousness, and are said to have the meaning of purifying people’s six roots.

Nisseiji Temple has a long history of around 1300 years, but of course it has also faced various difficulties, such as fires, over the years. However, the head priest, Kojo Nakata, says that the reason why the Fudo Myo-o Magai-butsu has remained in perfect condition to this day is because the temple has adopted new knowledge and technology in each era.

“Temples must learn about new things, compare them with the techniques of their predecessors, and not be fixated on one idea, but instead consider a variety of things. From now on, we will continue to make the temple suitable for the times, without excluding such ways of thinking.” Nisseiji Temple is a popular power spot for modern people, where both body and mind can be purified. The term “power spot” itself is not something that has been around for a long time, but was created by trends and the media. Visitors to Nisseiji Temple in search of such a place are unlikely to be of a particular sect or even to have any religious bias. However, if this is the standard for modern-day worship, then that is fine. Of course, it is also fine to visit for waterfall training in the style of Shugendo. In this day and age, when diversity is being touted, becoming a place that welcomes people with diversity is probably what the chief priest means by “a temple suited to the times”. Why not leave the hustle and bustle behind and recharge your batteries here, spending some time in a peaceful place?

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Sumiyoshi Taisha Shrine, an architectural structure recognized as a national treasure

The architectural style seems different from other shrines I’ve seen.”
While viewing the main shrine pavilions of Sumiyoshi Taisha during a trip to Osaka, Nakata noticed something. The main shrines of Sumiyoshi-taisha are in a row from the first to the fourth main shrine, all of which are undoubtedly old shrine buildings. However, upon closer inspection, the atmosphere of the roofs and walls was different from that of other shrines.
When asked, the architectural style of Sumiyoshitaisha is called “Sumiyoshi-zukuri,” which is the oldest style of shrine architecture in history. It is characterized by its hiwadabuki (a technique of covering the roof with cypress bark), tsumairi-shiki kirizumatsukuri (two sloping sides of the roof are shaped like a mountain, with the entrance on the side that looks like a figure eight when viewed from the side [the gable end]), and tan-nuri (lacquered in vermilion using pigments such as vermilion and tan). The pillars are painted in vermilion (ni-nuri), and the walls are painted in gofun-nuri, which is a paste made from ground seashells. According to the priest who showed us around, “When the emperor is replaced, a court ritual called ‘Daijosai’ is held. The Sumiyoshi Zouzou has a structure similar to that of the Dajoubugu, which is built for this ceremony. The aforementioned main shrine is an ancient Japanese architectural style that has been designated a National Treasure, which is a testament to the prestigious nature of Sumiyoshi Taisha.

Power spot of “Sumiyoshi Shrine”, god of the sea

Sumiyoshi Taisha is a historic shrine built about 1,800 years ago. As the head shrine of more than 2,300 Sumiyoshi shrines throughout Japan, it has long been known as “Sumiyosan” in Osaka, and is the Ichinomiya of Settsu Province (the shrine with the highest number of shrines in the Settsu area). On New Year’s three days, more than 2 million people visit the shrine for the first time. In addition to the four main shrines, there are a total of 27 shrines in the vast precincts of the shrine, which are said to cover an area of about 30,000 tsubo. Sumiyoshi is often associated with the god of the sea, but in addition to being the god of safe navigation, Sumiyoshi is also the god of purification, agriculture, waka poetry, martial arts, sumo wrestling, and beckoning cats, making it one of the most famous power spots in Japan since ancient times.

There are also many other attractions such as the “Anti-Bashi Bridge,” which can purify you just by crossing it; the “Omokaruseki,” a sacred stone that can predict whether or not your wish will come true by the weight of your will when you lift it up; the “Goshogozen,” a stone with the words “Five,” “Great” and “Power” written on it that if picked up and used as a charm, your wish will come true. There are many places of interest in the area. I learned for the first time that “Issunboshi,” a famous tale told once upon a time, is said to have been a child of Sumiyoshi-Okami, and I found it humorous that there is a spot where you can take a picture of yourself in a bowl like Issunboshi. The shrine is located in a bustling area and is always crowded with worshippers, giving it a lively atmosphere that is typical of Osaka. In central Tokyo, one sometimes sees a high-rise building built on the site where a shrine or temple once stood, with a small concrete main shrine building in the corner of the site. However, Sumiyoshi Shrine will surely still be here 100 to 200 years from now, cheering up the people of Osaka. Walking through the spacious shrine grounds and bowing to the main shrine, I felt as if I had received a power boost.

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Shensheng Temple with a museum

Fukuyama, known as the largest city in the Chugoku region after Hiroshima, Okayama, and Kurashiki, has rapidly expanded its economy along with postwar industrialization, and has become one of the major cities in the Setouchi region. One of its attractions is its easy accessibility from distant places, with some Nozomi trains stopping at Fukuyama Station. Geographically, Fukuyama is located in the middle of the Seto Inland Sea, and the city center is bustling with activity, but the seaside townscape is also beautiful. It is said that the port town in one of Ghibli’s masterpieces was inspired by Tomonoura in Fukuyama City.
Numakuma-cho, Fukuyama City, where the Shinsho-ji Temple is located, is a 30-minute drive from JR Fukuyama Station. It is also known as a town dotted with historical sites associated with the Heike clan. The temple was opened in 1965 by Hideo Kambara, the first mayor of the town and the second president of Tsuneishi Shipbuilding, and was named after Katsutaro Kambara, the founder of Tsuneishi Shipbuilding. The temple is located on an area of approximately 70,000 tsubo (approximately 7,000 square meters) and is dotted with 370-year-old buildings, a restored tea ceremony house of Sen no Rikyu, and the temple office “Shodo,” and a beautiful, well-kept garden is laid out between the buildings. The temple is so large that it would take half a day to tour it all, and yet it is a new kind of tourist attraction, combining history, contemporary art, food, and even a “bathhouse” where visitors can take a day-trip to experience the Zen spirit of “washing away the impurities of body and soul. Unlike Kyoto and other famous temples, Shinsho-ji may not have a history of several hundred years, but it is no less atmospheric or elegant than the best-known temples. The Shinshoji Zen and Garden Museum was built in 2016 by architect Terunobu Fujimori, artist Kohei Nawa, and other leading contemporary creators.

A new famous temple where you can look to the future

It’s spacious and comfortable. If I take a walk every day, I can feel the changing of the seasons.
Hidetoshi Nakata, who has visited temples all over Japan, seems to feel comfortable in the air. The spacious grounds are lush with plants and streams. Although it is a new temple, it has a calm atmosphere. After climbing slowly up the hill and praying at the main hall with its beautiful view, we walked down the hill to the art pavilion “Kotei” (Kotei). The lawn garden is planted with shrubs, and among the spectacular scenery are cherry trees called shiki-zakura (cherry blossoms in four seasons). These cherry trees bloom twice a year, in spring and fall. In the fall, the cherry blossoms bloom prettily amidst the autumn leaves, which is a fantastic sight. The boathouse-shaped building with a shingled roof, which stands out in the precincts of the temple, was designed by Kohei Nawa and his company SANDWICH. Entry is divided into 30-minute intervals, and the production is like rippling waves on a waterfront in the dark, further calming the mind. The temple’s appearance is a curious fusion of Japanese materials, architectural styles, and modern art, but after a leisurely walk through the temple grounds, it seems as if the spirit of Zen resides there.

Perhaps this temple will remain here for another 100 years, 200 years, and even beyond. I wonder how the people of that time will feel about this temple born in the Heisei era. This is a new famous temple that can look not to history or the past, but to the future.

NIHONMONO – 「にほん」の「ほんも…

海に浮かぶ美しい神社の大鳥居「厳島神社」／広島県廿日市市 – NIHONMONO 鳥居の重みだけで立つ大鳥居 厳島神社といえば、海のなかにそびえ立つ朱色の大鳥居。この印象的なたたずまいをテレビ

NIHONMONO – 「にほん」の「ほんも…

原爆ドームは平和の大切さを訴える「広島平和記念公園·資料館」／広島県広島市 – NIHONMONO 原爆ドームが伝えたいこと 1945年8月6日、午前8時15分――。広島に原爆が落とされ、壊滅的な被害を受けた。

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The Yoshino River, one of the largest rivers in Shikoku, flows through Tokushima Prefecture from west to east. Mima City, located in the basin of the Yoshino River, is home to Hongakuji Temple, a temple founded in the early Heian period (794-1185). The temple has two unique gardens: a karesansui (dry landscape garden) with the majestic flow of the Yoshino River as a backdrop, and a kaiyushiki (circular garden) that makes use of the natural mountain surface.

Location overlooking the nature of western Tokushima

The Shikoku Mountains are a series of 1,000-meter-high mountains in the central part of Shikoku. Many of these mountains, including Tsurugisan (Mt. Tsurugi), one of Japan’s 100 most famous mountains, have long flourished as sacred peaks of mountain worship. Hongakuji Temple is a temple of the Mimuro school of Shingon Buddhism located in Anabuki Town, Mima City, Tokushima Prefecture, in the middle reaches of the Yoshino River, which crosses the Shikoku Mountains. The temple stands on a hill with a fine view overlooking the Yoshino River, which flows freely through the area.

A Shingon temple that served as a fortress during the Warring States Period

Hongaku-ji Temple was founded in 828 by the monk Eun as a Shingon dojo, and was later revived in 1131 by the monk Yujun. The temple is said to have been used as a fortress during the Warring States Period because of its location on a hill with a river in front and mountains in the background. After climbing a steep slope and passing through the temple gate, the beautifully landscaped grounds spread out before one’s eyes, reminding one of a “natural fortress. To the right is a view of the Karesansui (dry landscape garden) and the Yoshino River, to the left is the Kyakuden (guest hall), and beyond the stone pavement in front of the main hall is the main hall.

The main hall is built in the kake-zukuri style, taking advantage of the topography.

During the Azuchi-Momoyama period (1568-1600), the temple was burned down in a military fire by the Chosokabe clan, and was again destroyed by fire in 1863, only to be rebuilt the following year by the monk Yukiei. Currently, the temple grounds include the main hall, gomado, Tenjinsha, Kyakuden, and a tea ceremony room, all of which were rebuilt or repaired in the Heisei period or later. The main hall and gomado were built using a traditional construction method called kakezukuri. For a common example, think of the main hall of Kiyomizu-dera Temple in Kyoto. It is a spectacular sight, standing tall atop a latticework of long pillars and beams from the bottom of a cliff.

The statue of Amida Nyorai that survived the war

The temple was the family shrine of the Hachisuka clan, the feudal lord of Tokushima in the Edo period (1603-1868), and is dedicated to the wife of the clan’s founder, Masakatsu Hachisuka, and to the descendants of the Inada clan, the feudal lord’s retainers.

The main hall is a wooden structure made of Aomori cypress, and a statue of Amida Nyorai is enshrined as the principal image. The statue is 45 cm tall and has an impressive expression that is both soft and stern. There were many other treasures in the hall, but they were lost in a recent military fire. The hall also houses the Daisho Junkiten, a secret statue of Buddha said to have been handed down from Ienobu Tokugawa, the 6th Tokugawa Shogun, as well as Buddhist paintings.

Two gardens as the face of the temple

Although Hongaku-ji Temple has a long history, most visitors to the temple today probably come for its beautiful garden. Karesansui (dry landscape garden) and kaiyushiki (circular garden). These two distinctive gardens were created by Tadakazu Saito, an expert on ancient gardens and temple grounds. He has created, supervised, and restored gardens all over Japan, including the Ueda Sokyu School Iemoto’s open-air garden in Hiroshima, the Shoujuin garden in Shizuoka, and the “Tsukuhano Garden” at the Hirozawa Museum of Art in Ibaraki. The temple garden is said to have been created by Mr. Saito in the late Showa period or early Heisei period.

Originally, there was a dry landscape garden created by a gardener from a parishioner’s family, but my father, who was the former head priest, asked Mr. Saito to create the garden because he wanted to make the temple more inviting,” said Yugen Yoshida, the temple’s head priest.

The only one of its kind in Japan? Stone garden with the river in the background

Karesansui refers to a form of garden that expresses natural scenery without using any water. The dry landscape “Tsurukame-no-niwa” at Hongaku-ji Temple is a garden with the view of the Yoshino River running right in front of it and the Asan Mountains stretching behind it as its borrowed scenery. It would not be an exaggeration to say that this is the only garden in Japan that uses the river as a borrowed landscape rather than the mountains. Based on Chinese Taoist philosophy, the garden is composed mainly of white sand representing water and stone arrangements resembling cranes and turtles. The blue stones unique to Awa are used, and from the left toward the Yoshino River, the turtle masonry, the crane masonry, and the boat stone carrying the miracle medicine of immortality are arranged. The cranes and turtles are represented as heading toward the multiple pagodas representing Horai Island on the far left, which expresses the wish for longevity, prosperity, and celebration.

Selected as one of the 88 scenic spots in Shikoku

The “crane and turtle garden” was created to look most beautiful when viewed from the guest rooms. Looking around the garden from the corridor of the guest room. The dynamic stone formations contrast with the white sand with sand patterns representing ripples, running water, and whirlpools. The magnificent view of the Yoshino River overlaps with this, drawing you into a spacious and expansive worldview that is somewhat continental. The view from here has been selected as one of the 88 Views of Shikoku, a project to designate and promote the attractiveness of the unique landscapes and townscapes of Shikoku. The atmosphere is especially nice on rainy days,” says Yoshida.

The beauty of a garden with greenery and rock surfaces

Moving along the grounds toward the mountain side, there is another garden, the Kaiyushiki Garden. This garden makes full use of the terrain of the rugged mountain surface, with masonry, stone steps, and plantings, creating a landscape that looks like a miniature of the great outdoors. At the center of the garden is the Ryumonbaku Waterfall and Rigyoseki, a waterfall masonry structure that utilizes the original rock surface. Stone steps and small paths are built around the waterfall, which has a drop of about 6 meters, and a stone bridge at the top of the waterfall allows visitors to walk around the waterfall. Incidentally, “Longmen Fall” refers to the style of stonework associated with the Chinese legend “Xinglongmen,” in which a carp climbs up a waterfall on the Yellow River to become a dragon.

In the garden, the solemnity of the natural rocks and masonry is harmonized with the greenery of moss and trees covering the slopes, and visitors can immerse themselves in the beauty of the garden, which purifies the mind. The garden is also home to many maple trees, which create a gorgeous atmosphere during the fall foliage season.

Relax in a tea house built on a bedrock

Walking along a small path from the top of the waterfall, you will reach Hifumi An, a tea house in the sukiya style. Visitors enter the tea house through an atmospheric open space with the aforementioned blue stones as paving stones. The building is built on a large rock face, so the large windows offer a panoramic view of the powerful rock face, the main hall, the guest house, and the garden below.

The refreshingly decorated tearoom can be used for formal tea ceremonies or for a casual sip of green tea. With the colors of the season in the background, you can savor carefully prepared matcha green tea and tea cakes, and relax in the slow flow of time.

Enjoy vegetarian cuisine with all your senses.

What makes the cuisine even more appealing at Honrakuji is that it is deeply personal. Each Kaiseki vegetarian dish, carefully prepared to maximize the flavor of seasonal vegetables, is like a work of art. The elegant flavors reflect the seasons, and the dishes will leave you with a sense of peacefulness and richness.

I believe that a temple must have a charm that people love. I want to contribute to the improvement of the arts and the happiness of people through gardens and cuisine.” Mr. Yoshida, who puts these ideas into practice, continues to work tirelessly on his garden under the direction of Mr. Saito. He is also a chef himself.

A space where you can reflect on yourself and want to visit again and again

A garden tells many spiritual stories, and gardeners put many meanings into their gardens. （Therefore, it is important to see a garden over and over again. It is the same act as reading a good novel over and over again.

This is a passage in which Mr. Saito talks about how a garden should be. The Honrakuji Temple, a beautiful collaboration of seasonal nature and human creation, is a place where you will find something new no matter how many times you visit, and each time you visit, you will be able to look at yourself again.

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Shizuoka Sengen Shrine is the most famous shrine in Shizuoka.

Aoi-ku, which together with Suruga-ku forms the central urban area of Shizuoka City, has been the center of the Suruga area since the Imagawa period of the Warring States period, and Suruga Castle was not only Ieyasu’s childhood residence, but also served as the de facto sub-capital of the Tokugawa regime, including his later rule as Grand Gosho. The layout of the town, which is laid out in a grid pattern, has changed little from the days of Ieyasu’s beloved Suruga Castle. For this reason, when a referendum was held in 2005 on the transition to an ordinance-designated city, the name of the ward was chosen after the Tokugawa family crest, “Aoi” (hollyhock).

Located at the southern foot of Mt. Doki, which juts out into Aoi Ward, the site covers an area of approximately 13,000 tsubo. In 2014, the shrine underwent a large-scale repainting project called “20-year renovation. The 26 buildings of the shrine, which were built at the end of the Edo period and are designated as national important cultural properties, are being repainted one by one.

Shizuoka Sengen Shrine is actually the collective name for three shrines: Kanbe Shrine, Sengen Shrine, and Otoshi Miya Shrine. The Kambe Shrine was built about 2,100 years ago, the Otoshi Ancestral Shrine about 1,700 years ago, and the Sengen Shrine about 1,100 years ago, each with a long history. All three shrines are deeply revered by the Imperial Court, the local priests, and warlords, and are widely worshipped as the head shrines of Suruga Province, the general deities of Shizuoka, and the great shrines of Suruga. There are a total of seven shrines on the grounds, including these three, and visiting them all is called “shichi-sha mairi,” or visiting all seven is said to bring “all one’s wishes to pass.

Shrine visited by Tokugawa Ieyasu

The gate, decorated in vermilion lacquer, was built in 1816 and is designated as a national important cultural property. The magnificent Okumeden, also designated as a National Important Cultural Property, is 25 meters high in the sakurakaku-zukuri style and has a 132-tatami-mat area inside. The beams and ceiling are decorated with gorgeous dragons, kylin, and phoenixes. The ceiling paintings by Eishin Kano, Kannobu Kano, and others are decorated, indicating that the temple has been loved by the powerful. It is said that a considerable number of craftsmen were gathered from all over Japan for the construction of the temple. Looking at the colorful decorations, Nakata murmured, “It looks like Nikko Toshogu. It looks like Nikko Toshogu Shrine,” Nakata said. When the shrine was destroyed in a major fire, it was rebuilt at the expense of the Edo shogunate.

As we climbed to higher ground while touring the richly natural grounds, we could see Mt. Unlike ordinary shrines, the worship hall here faces the direction of Mt. Fuji is beautiful from any angle. Fuji is beautiful from any angle. It is easy to understand why people in ancient times worshipped this mountain as a god. We did not have time to visit all seven shrines, but we felt as if we were receiving good vibes just by being here.

NIHONMONO – 「にほん」の「ほんも…

眼病平癒の力で信仰を集める「医王山薬王院油山寺」／静岡県袋井市 – NIHONMONO 医王山薬王院油山寺とは いわゆる観光地的な寺ではない。ガイドブックにもあまり乗ることはない寺だ。だが、静岡県袋

NIHONMONO – 「にほん」の「ほんも…

世界一長い木造歩道橋「蓬莱橋」／静岡県島田市 – NIHONMONO 世界一長い木造歩道橋「蓬莱橋」 江戸時代、東海道屈指の難所といわれ「箱根八里は馬でも越すが、越すに越されぬ大井

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The Shikoku pilgrimage covers 88 sacred sites related to Kobo Daishi scattered throughout the four prefectures of Shikoku. In addition to faith, many people have started the pilgrimage for sightseeing, health improvement, or just to enjoy the outdoors. Ryozenji Temple in Naruto City, Tokushima Prefecture, is the first temple on the Shikoku pilgrimage. Many people visit the starting point of the pilgrimage with prayers and thoughts in their hearts.

Shikoku was a Mecca for ascetic practices.

In recent years, there has been a bit of a boom in pilgrimages to sacred sites. There are numerous pilgrimage routes throughout Japan, including the 33 sacred sites in the western part of the country, the 33 sacred sites in the Bando region, and the Kumano Kodo Ise Route, and many people, especially seniors, are visiting these sacred sites.

Among these, the 88 sacred sites of Shikoku are probably the most popular, with a history of more than 1,200 years and a total length of 1,460 km, making it a grand pilgrimage route, and is recognized as a Japanese Heritage site. The pilgrimage to the 88 sacred sites in Shikoku is also called “Ohenro” (pilgrimage). The origin of this term is that Shikoku, with its steep mountains, is far from the capitals of Nara and Kyoto, and was called “Hendo,” a place suitable for ascetic practices. It is thought that the name later changed to “henro.

Starting from Naruto City, the gateway to Shikoku

The Shikoku pilgrimage is basically made in the order of the number of the temples on the pilgrimage route: Awa (Tokushima Prefecture), Tosa (Kochi Prefecture), Iyo (Ehime Prefecture), and Sanuki (Kagawa Prefecture). Reizanji Temple is the starting point of the pilgrimage. Naruto City, where the temple is located, is the gateway to Shikoku from Osaka and Hyogo via Awaji Island, and Reizanji Temple is located in the southwestern part of the city.

Ancient temple that suffered two fires

Reizanji Temple was founded in the Tempyo period (710-794). It is said that the temple was founded by the priest Gyoki, who was trusted by Emperor Shomu, at the order of the Emperor. The temple was once lined with majestic buildings and prospered as one of the three great monasteries of Awa during the Muromachi period (1336-1573), but it was completely destroyed by fire in 1582 when Motochika Chosokabe, a feudal lord of the Awa domain, burned the temple down in a military fire. The temple was restored by Mitsutaka Hachisuka, the lord of the Awa domain, but in 1891, the buildings were again destroyed by fire, except for the main hall and the pagoda. The Reizan-ji we see today was reconstructed to its original state over a period of more than 100 years.

Who is Kobo Daishi, the creator of Shikoku Sacred Sites?

The person deeply associated with Reizan-ji Temple is Kobo-Daishi (Kukai), a monk of the early Heian period who was also known as a famous writer. He is still affectionately called “Kobo-san” or “Odaishi-san,” and is a superstar in the Buddhist world.

Born in 774 in Zentsuji City in present-day Kagawa Prefecture, Kobo-Daishi traveled to Tang China in 804 as an envoy to the Tang Dynasty and studied esoteric Buddhism for two years. After returning to Japan, he founded the Shingon sect of Buddhism and devoted himself to propagating Buddhism in Japan. He also engaged in educational and social projects, including the establishment of the Shugei Shuchi-in, an educational facility for the people, and the construction of a reservoir for agricultural use in Kagawa Prefecture.

A Culture of Hospitality Rooted in the Local Community

Initially, Shikoku pilgrims were mainly ascetic monks, but as the faith in Kobo-Daishi grew, people from all over Japan and the world began to visit. The appeal of the Shikoku pilgrimage lies in the fact that it is open to anyone, regardless of religion, nationality, gender, age, etc., who can start a pilgrimage at any time.

One of the reasons why the Shikoku pilgrimage has captured the hearts of people is the “hospitality culture. The entire community supports the Shikoku pilgrimage by offering free sweets, drinks, lodging, etc. to the pilgrims, and by giving them support such as, “Good luck,” “Thanks for your hard work,” etc. This is a very natural practice. This warm custom, which has continued throughout the long history of the pilgrimage, provides the energy for the pilgrims to continue their arduous journey.

Worship in the style of a pilgrimage

While it is fine to visit the temple in a normal way, those who wish to start a pilgrimage or feel like a pilgrim should wear the minimum pilgrimage attire, including a white robe, a vajra cane, a kesa (priest’s robe), and a sugegasa (bamboo hat).

The vajra staff is a 1.5-meter-long white wooden staff, a sacred tool that is believed to be an incarnation of Odaishi. When resting, wash the tip of the staff and hold it in the palm of your hand, and do not take it with you to the toilet or other unclean places. Sugegasa, a straw hat, is used as a shade from the sun or as an umbrella. The phrase “Dougyouninin” written on the hat means that you are always with Odaishi-san.
The beads, scripture book, sutra book, osamefuda, incense sticks, candles, lighters, and other personal belongings are carried in a zutabukuro (headabukuro), but a large, comfortable backpack can be used instead.

Pilgrimage goods can be purchased at the Information Desk next to the parking lot of Reizanji Temple.

Precincts of the temple warmly welcome visitors

The nearest station to Reizanji Temple is Bando Station on the JR Kotoku Line. As soon as you get off the train, you will see people here and there dressed in white and wearing hats.

A 10-minute walk from the station brings you to the temple grounds through the Niomon Gate, a gate with a stately irimoya roof. To the left is the Kannon (Goddess of Merriment), a water fountain, and a bell tower, and to the right is the Hosei Pond with Nishikigoi carp swimming in it. Six child statues praying on the surface of the water to a statue of Jizo Bosatsu near the pond are somehow adorable. The solemn yet relaxed atmosphere of the temple makes one feel the depth of “Ichiban-san’s” nostalgia.

The majestic main hall echoing with sutra chanting.

After purifying our hands and mouths at the water closet, we struck the bell once in the bell tower as a sign that we had visited the temple. We then entered the main hall at the far end of the temple grounds.

The main hall was remodeled in 1964 to coincide with the 1,150th anniversary of the founding of Shikoku, and was constructed by adding an inner sanctuary to the worship hall. The main statue of Shakyamuni Nyorai is a seated statue of 4 feet tall (about 120 cm) holding a jade in his left hand. The statue is said to have been carved by Kobo Daishi during his training. Other statues enshrined in the temple include a triad of Jizoson Bosatsu, a seated statue of Binzuru Gyoja, and a Nosatsu Daishi made of solidified votive tablets.

The ceiling of the main hall is filled with many hanging lanterns, and the soft light illuminates the hall in a fantastic manner. A dynamic dragon painting on the ceiling in the center of the hall of worship adds to the mystique of the space. As you join your hands together amid the smoldering incense and the echoes of sutras read by the pilgrims, your heart will naturally become tighter.

A hall dedicated to a jet-black Odaishi-san

If you follow the pilgrim’s procedure, you will want to visit the Daishi Hall after the main hall. In this neat square-shaped hall facing Houshoike Pond, you can see a jet-black statue of Kobo Daishi.

Thirteen Buddhas calmly watching over the deceased and their ancestors

To the left of the main hall is a hall dedicated to 13 life-size statues of Buddha. The thirteen Buddhas are said to be the thirteen Buddhas who watch over the deceased and guide them to paradise, and worshippers who come to make offerings to their ancestors and the deceased seem to worship them with particular devotion.

Among the thirteen Buddhas, only Fudo Myoo is in the adjacent Fudo Hall. His eyes are wide open and he has an angry expression on his face, which is an expression of his heart to strictly teach and guide sentient beings, and is said to be beneficial for dispelling troubles and warding off evil spirits.

The oldest pagoda in the temple. The stately Daboto Pagoda

Between the Thirteen Buddhas Hall and the bell tower rises the Dabotoho Pagoda, which still retains the appearance of the pagoda as it was about 600 years ago. It is a two-story wooden pagoda with the lower part square and the upper part circular like a bowl, and inside the pagoda is enshrined Gochi-no-Torai (five wisdom Buddhas). Although the interior of the pagoda cannot be seen, its stately appearance, which evokes a sense of history, attracts the attention of visitors even from the outside.

Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy, is popular for bringing various kinds of luck.

The Kannon (Goddess of Mercy) for marriage, which stands quietly on the left side of the Niomon gate by the water fountain, is a popular spot for visitors to visit. It is believed to bring not only a man and woman together, but also health, work, and various other types of relationships. The key is to pray sincerely while purifying yourself with water as well as offering money.

After visiting all the halls, ask for a red seal at the sutra office next to the information desk. This will encourage you to begin your Shikoku pilgrimage, and it will also be a memory to cherish after your journey is over.
Kobo-Daishi taught that each person should strive to live a life that makes full use of his or her abilities and talents. This is a teaching that transcends religious boundaries, is easy to understand, and can be understood by us today. Reizanji Temple is filled with such power that one can feel its teachings firsthand and step into a new self with a refreshed feeling.

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Serene place unlike any other in Tokyo

Meiji Shrine is dedicated to Emperor Meiji, the 122nd emperor and his wife Empress Shoken. Despite being located in the center of Tokyo, it is the size of 15 baseball domes, and is known for having the most worshippers for New Years.
In 2012, it was included in the top 20 three star tourist spots in Japan by Michelin, positioning it as a globally recognized tourist spot that is representative of Japan.

Meiji Shrine was built in tribute to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken who passed in 1912 and 1914 respectively, in a location that is closely associated with them with great support of Japanese citizens.

The gates open at sun rise and close at sunset.
In December when Nakata visited, the gates opened at 6:40 am.
“Meiji Shrine was built in 1920, more than 100 years ago. The 700,000 square meter forest was planted with about 100,000 trees which were donated from around the country. It has grown to be an abundant forest that is loved by Japanese citizens.”

The air is crisp first in the morning and filled with the scent of vegetation. Only the sounds of chirping birds is audible. It is so serene, and the air is so clear that you almost forget you’re in the middle of Tokyo as you walk through the lush green grounds, listening to junior priest Muneaki Hirao who handles public relations for the shrine.

Omotesando is originally a path to Meiji Shrine

The Yoyogi area is made of Kanto loam which makes it inadequate for coniferous trees, so broad leave evergreens were planted. The trees were donated not only from around the nation, but also Sakhalin, Manchuria, Taiwan and the Korean Peninsula.
After a short walk, a large “torii” (gate) and the main shrine appear. Despite the early morning visit, some worshippers were already there, including some businesspersons in suits.

“Some people visit the shrine on their way to work.”
We purified our hands and mouth to pray, and notice the many scratches on the wooden pillar.
“These scratches are from the worshippers tossing their coins into the collection bin from far away.”
The scratches are unique to Meiji Shrine which boasts more than 3 million visitors annually. While we often see images of Meiji Shrine filled with worshippers, it’s rare to see it so quiet. It seems like a totally different world, and you almost forget you’re in a big city.

“Many don’t realize it, but Omotesando is a path leading up to Meiji Shrine. There is a stone lantern at the Harajuku intersection and the intersection at route 246.” (Junior Priest Hirao)

“Omotesando has become such a familiar word that I thought it was a word often used for a location. I didn’t realize it’s originally a path to Meiji Shrine.” (Nakata)
There are often new discoveries even in locations that may seem familiar. Our visit to Meiji Shrine early in the morning brought allowed us to experience a side of Tokyo that was refreshing.

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