Usa City in Oita Prefecture is famous for Usa Jingu Shrine, the head temple of Hachimangu Shrine. Yotsuya Shuzo, a sake brewery, is located in a good old fishing town surrounded by a rich natural environment of mountains, basins, and plains. How was “Kanehachi,” one of the most difficult shochu to obtain in Japan, born? We visited Mr. Takaaki Yotsuya, the fifth generation of the brewery, to learn about the roots of the shochu and his passion for it.

Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

History of Yotsuya Brewery

Yotsuya Brewery was founded in 1919. The founder “Yotsuya Kanehachi,” who was originally a fish market merchant, could not forget the taste of shochu he drank while running several private fish markets and touring various prefectures in Kyushu, and obtained a license for shochu as a side business. Today, Mr. Takeaki Yotsuya, the fifth generation to inherit the sake brewery, which has been in operation for over 100 years. His grandfather, the third generation, was killed in the war, and his father, the fourth generation, joined the brewery as soon as he graduated from high school.

From an aspiring businessman to a warehouseman

Takeaki grew up as the son of a sake brewer, but at the time he had no interest in the family business and went to university in the mathematics department of the Faculty of Science. He recalls that in the fishing town where he was born and raised, he had a yearning to be a businessman, something he rarely saw in his hometown. When he graduated, the world was at the height of the bubble economy. He started his life as a smooth sailing businessman as a system engineer at Matsushita Electric (now Panasonic). A few years later, he was put in charge of overseas operations and spent his days traveling back and forth between Singapore and Malaysia. He originally enjoyed drinking alcohol, but instead of the Japanese sake he was used to drinking, he became addicted to Western liquors such as bourbon, scotch, and wine, and enjoyed drinking alcoholic beverages from many different countries.

The turning point was “Iichiko

It was a smooth life as a salaried worker, but he was not finding satisfaction in his work. I found Iichiko, a barley shochu made by Sanwa Shushuizu, a sake brewer in my hometown of Usa, where I was born and raised, in the liquor section of a small Wal-Mart in front of the hotel where I was staying overseas.” I had a selfish thought in my mind that 30 was a turning point in my life, and the sight of Iichiko reminded me of my family’s shochu brewery. I thought to myself, “This is it, let’s go home! Mr. Takeaki says he had a sense of inspiration. That was the moment he decided to return home.

Homecoming and harsh reality

Although he returned home, Yotsuya Sake Brewery was barely keeping up with business. The number of employees and the number of stones produced were minimal. He recalls that he was concerned about whether he would be able to make it as a novice sake brewer, but he was more anxious to learn how to make sake first. His father, who had learned on the job rather than in theory, was the type who told him to learn his work on the job without any specific guidance. On the other hand, Takeaki, who was a system engineer with a science background, was a theoretical person who learned everything by logic. It was difficult for him to understand the “craftsman’s sense,” so he had to learn by himself from scratch. Although he did not know what was right and what was left every day, Takeaki showed the true nature of what he had learned from his science background. With a stopwatch in hand, he calculated the numerical values of all the processes involved in sake brewing, taking averages as he went along. He learned the basics of sake brewing from a book titled “Authentic Shochu Manufacturing Technology.”

“I want to make sake that I think tastes good.”

At that time, they were following the major manufacturers in the industry in terms of taste and pricing, so prices were uniform. There was also a tendency to sell only the lighter-mouthed types made with the same reduced-pressure distillation as the major players. In addition, the domestic self-sufficiency rate for barley, the raw material for shochu, was only a few percent, and more than 90 percent was imported. It was only 2-row barley, and “Usa Mugi,” Yotsuya Shuzo’s main product at the time, also used 2-row barley. Although sales were stable to a certain extent, about a year after returning home, Takeaki began to think about the flavor he wanted, saying, “I want to make sake that I like, not what we have now.

What made him realize this was the time he spent with his father over sake after work. As they discussed not only sake brewing, but also various other things, he decided to make not the easy-to-drink shochu that was the mainstream at the time, but a savory, deep-flavored shochu that he liked. His father’s message to him was, “It’s fine to make shochu, but you have to take responsibility for what you make,” and he began making it on a trial basis, which was the beginning of the shochu that would become Kakehachi.

Determination to use local barley to arrive at “Kanehachi”

That is how he started brewing sake in 2000. In his search for the flavor he wanted, Takeaki turned his attention to hadakamugi, or six-row barley, which had been planted in some rice paddies in the Usa Plain as part of a policy of reducing the amount of land devoted to rice cultivation. This barley, which is rare and rich in nutrients among barleys, is an ancient Japanese variety, and the company wanted to support local farmers by using this barley anyway. We decided to use locally grown Rokujo barley because we wanted to tell people that this barley makes a delicious shochu. Compared to 2-row barley, 6-row barley has smaller grains and lower starch content. This means that less saccharification takes place, and less alcohol is obtained. Therefore, it has been frowned upon in sake brewing, but in order to pursue the strong aroma that Takeaki wanted to produce, he began using it on a trial basis.

Because of his desire to value each grain of barley and his insistence on flavor, he also built an atmospheric distillation machine to his original specifications. After about two years of repeated trial and error, the sake was completed with a unique flavor that had never been tasted before. Takeaki says, “I would be lying if I said I wasn’t anxious. He gave up on the idea that he had no taste for sake brewing if this did not sell well, and out of his determination to change jobs, he named the sake Kanehachi, after Yotsuya Kanehachi, the founder of the Yotsuya Sake Brewery. This determination was the proof that he was not influenced by the trends of the times, and that he was committed to “making shochu that is not in the mainstream.

Newspaper article that led to the name “Phantom Shochu”

In 2002, Yotsuya Shuzo experienced a major turning point. Even though “Usa Mugi” was still selling better at the time, Kenpachi was ranked 10th in the “Shochu Recommended by Experts” section of the Nikkei newspaper. This was a bolt out of the blue for Takeaki, who knew nothing about it. Some of the respondents were not happy with the taste, saying that it tasted different from regular shochu, but those who preferred the taste greatly outweighed those who did not, and it became the talk of the town. This led to a jump in popularity for Kenpachi, and orders began pouring in from all over the country. Some drinkers think that “savory” means “burnt smell,” so most breweries tend to suppress this peculiarity, but Takeaki is different. I wanted to go all out with the savory flavor. I just prefer it this way. The result of his pursuit of this belief-like persistence has been well-received by the world, and the popularity of Kanehachi has been unwavering.

Development of “Toyonohoshi” barley for shochu

Even after “Kanehachi” became a hit, Takeaki’s challenges did not end there. As the chairman of the production technology committee of the Oita Prefecture Sake Brewers Association, Takeaki was also involved in the development of barley for use in shochu. In the past, imported 2-row barley was commonly known as “beer barley.” Because it was used under the leadership of beer brewers, there was an image in the industry that shochu was made from the same barley used in beer, and he felt frustrated by this. With this in mind, he launched a project with local breweries, and the result was a new variety of barley called Toyonohoshi. The city of Usa, rich in nature, has a mild climate with little rainfall, making it an ideal place to grow barley. Grown from scratch in Usa, TOYONOHOSHI is highly nutritious due to the soil, and has a sweeter and richer flavor than ordinary 2-row barley. Sake made with TOYONOHOSHI, which took about 10 years to develop, is branded with the name TOYONOHOSHI in the product name, regardless of which brewery it is made from. Naturally, Kenpachi also has a “Kanehachi Toyonohoshi” made with Toyonohoshi, and the yeast used is Oita Prefecture’s proprietary yeast for shochu, Oita Yeast, extracted from Oita Prefecture’s famous “kabosu” . It has a barley aroma with a tart kabosu flavor that lingers on the palate.

Yotsuya Shuzo, which aims to create “innovative and traditional shochu,” is not content to rest on its laurels with hit products, and is constantly developing new products. Takeaki smiles as he explains that the only thing keeping him going is his desire to “pursue the art of making shochu.

Sake, the pride of Japan and Oita, to the world

The word “SAKE” now means Japanese sake in foreign countries, and with the global boom in Japanese food, sake exports are also increasing. Shochu, however, is still on the decline. Shochu is a distilled liquor, and there is no custom overseas to drink distilled liquor as a food alcohol. The challenge for the future, says Takeaki, is how to convey the concept to Europe and the United States. When I was living in Singapore and told my friends that I was going back to Japan to make shochu, they didn’t understand the word “shochu.”
He also hopes to plant seeds that will make it easier for the next generation to express themselves in the future. By researching raw materials, barrels, and yeast, Takeaki hopes to create an environment where young juniors can be creative.

“I don’t need to be the final expression.”

With the confidence and accomplishments of the man who created Kanehachi, Yotsuya Sake Brewery is paving the way for the future of the next generation of sake brewers.

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Sanwa Shuyu produces many products, including its flagship barley shochu “Iichiko”, sake “Waka Botan”, and “Ajimu Wine”. Sanwa Shuzo aims to create higher quality products while paying close attention to raw materials and production methods. What are the new challenges they are tackling at the place where they started and where they are aiming to go as a company?

Sanwa Sake Brewery’s origins in sake

Iichiko” is so famous that it is no exaggeration to say that it represents barley shochu in Japan. Everyone has probably seen or heard of it at least once. The headquarters of Sanwa Shuyu, which manufactures the shochu, is located in Usa City in the northern part of Oita Prefecture. With a population of approximately 50,000, it is not a large town in Oita Prefecture, but it is surrounded by lush green mountains and has the largest area of rice and wheat paddies in the prefecture, which are actively farmed.
The town is surrounded by lush green mountains and has the largest area of rice and wheat paddies in the prefecture, making it a thriving agricultural area. However, it is probably not widely known that Sanwa Shuzo also produces sake and wine.
Sanwa Shuzui’s first product was not shochu, but sake, and the company’s second product after sake was wine. After sake, Sanwa Shuzui then began producing wine. Even today, the company is said to refer to Waka Botan as the father, Ajimuin Wine as the mother, and Iichiko as the son.

As a means for Usa Hirano breweries to compete with major brands.

The company was started in 1958. The history of the company dates back to 1958, when three breweries in the Usa Plain, where there were many sake breweries, Akamatsu Honke Brewery, Kumano Midou Brewery, and Wada Brewery, each of which brewed sake, collaborated to improve their business situation, which had deteriorated due to the spread of major brands such as Nada and Fushimi. The three companies joined forces to improve their business situation, which had deteriorated due to the spread of major sake brands such as Nada and Fushimi. The following year, Nishi Shuzojo was added, but the management strategy was to focus on brands that were well known in the local market, rather than developing multiple brands in the dark.
However, it was difficult for the four companies to produce sake with the same taste, aroma, and quality. Therefore, at that time, each of the four breweries blended their own sake and bottled it to be sold under the Waka Botan label. However, it was still difficult to make a living only by brewing sake, so in addition to growing mandarin oranges, which were also thriving in Usa City at the time, in 1966, a national pilot project to develop farmland led to the growth of grape growing in Ajimuin Town, adjacent to Usa City, and the company decided to use its idle breweries and create year-round jobs. In 1971, the company obtained a license to produce fruit wine with a view to utilizing its idle warehouses and creating year-round jobs. The company also began producing wine. Of course, none of his businesses was an immediate success, but he never gave up and continued to take on new challenges.

Background of the birth of “Iichiko,” the company’s most important product

Thus, about 20 years after its founding, the company added wine brewing to its sake business, and the barley shochu “Iichiko” was born. As a sake brewer, the company had already been producing rice shochu and sake lees shochu, but had not yet begun work on barley shochu. However, Nikaido Shuzo, also located in Oita Prefecture, created an authentic 100% barley shochu, which became a big hit, and all the companies in the prefecture began to pay attention to shochu made with barley. Of course, the company followed this trend and began to develop its own barley shochu.

Incidentally, since Oita Prefecture is characterized by a two-crop Seto Inland Sea climate, barley has long been cultivated in Usa City as well. The city also has a food culture that uses barley miso, and has a unique technique for making koji with barley instead of rice, so barley is a familiar ingredient. However, compared to sake brewing, shochu production has not been a major focus, so it was necessary to update the production technology.
Sanwa Shuzui therefore hired Masahiko Shimoda, who had extensive knowledge as a sake brewing engineer, as the production manager in order to build a technological foundation, including research. Under Mr. Shimoda’s direction, the company began full-scale shochu production utilizing koji making and fermentation techniques. Shimoda’s shochu was well received because of his focus on koji and his pursuit of a clean, easy-to-drink taste, but it was not easy to produce it in a stable and reproducible manner, so he spent many years conducting research on stabilizing and equalizing the taste.

Aiming for distilled spirits unique to Japan, with a focus on koji

The company believes that it is important to determine the suitability of koji for the distillation method of shochu. The company takes pride in the fact that it has been making sake since before it was founded, and it is very particular about the use of koji. For example, there are two types of distillation methods: reduced-pressure distillation, in which distillation is carried out at low pressure to retain a high level of flavor and aroma, and normal-pressure distillation, in which the flavors of the ingredients are brought out through a traditional method. Mr. Shimoda has blended the two to bring out the best flavor. He has mastered barley koji in order to maximize the fermentation technique using koji for both reduced-pressure and normal-pressure distillation, and has refined his techniques with the belief that he must “be even one millimeter better than the competition.
The culmination of their efforts was “Iichiko,” which was born in 1978. The shochu boom at the time of its release helped, and Shimoda’s insistence on a clean, refreshing taste was widely supported by the public, making it an instant hit. Mr. Shimoda, who contributed greatly to the development of the product, is currently the chairman of the company.
Having continued to refine the quality of its products, the company’s next goal was to create branding for consumers. To this end, the company asked art director Hideya Kawakita, also from Fukuoka, Kyushu, to do everything related to PR, from bottle design and sales promotion posters to catch copy and commercials. This worked well, and Iichiko’s visuals and copy remained in the minds and memories of those who saw them.
The “Flask Bottle” and “Special,” both of which he designed, won the Good Design Award. The combination of the quality-oriented contents and sophisticated design made Iichiko’s popularity unshakable.

Karashima Kyokunokura” from Usa City, the nation’s first “special sake zone”.

The new base of operations for Sanwa Sake Brewery is “Karashima Kuukunokura”.
Since Usa City was the first city in Japan to be designated as a “Sake Special Zone,” the company opened this facility in 2022 with the desire to “convey the culture of koji and fermentation from Usa to the world,” which it has cherished since its establishment. The facility is a place where visitors can experience the fun of sake brewing, koji and fermentation culture, and enjoy hands-on programs such as brewery tours and sake tasting. Sanwa Shuzo is not just about ‘Iichiko. We want many people to enjoy this place where they can have various conversations with the brewers. I want people to feel that Sanwa Sake Brewery is interesting.” Mr. Shimoda says that he has put everything he wants to do into the Karashima Kukunokura.

The location is the site of the former head office, not far from the head office. The land is filled with the thoughts and feelings of the founder and all those who have been involved with Sanwa Shuzo. It is an expression of the company’s challenge to build a new history on the foundation of the traditions and thoughts of the brewers and producers that have been preserved since the company’s establishment in 1958.

Returning to the starting point and proposing new values for sake

The facility includes a “barley brewery” that makes happoshu (sparkling wine) and a brewery that is considered a “rice brewery” that handles sake. Both are surprisingly small, but Koji Furuya, the head of the brewery, says that they were all created for the sake of the customers. Koji Furuya, the head of the brewery, says, “It is important for people who come here to see and touch the actual process of making sake, and to become interested in it. There are not many places where you can talk with the sake brewers, so we want to propose sake from a variety of perspectives that only we can offer. The new restaurant will return to Sanwa Sake Brewery’s origins in sake, and at the same time, it will be a place where the company can express its gratitude to its customers.

With this in mind, the company plans to offer sake made to order. They are also considering having users actually participate in the sake brewing process by shaking the koji, or even better, by making koji together. This is a bold challenge for a company to take on, even if it is to increase the number of new sake fans. There is no end to the ideas that only a small brewery can come up with. However, this is where their own skills are needed. In order to realize a complete order, Mr. Furuya hopes that people will first come into contact with sake, which has a strong image of being sacred, and become familiar with it, even though every day will be a continuous learning process. He also expressed his gratitude for the fact that the brewery is located in Usa City and for the local spring water and rice, and his hope that the sake brewing process will make the most of the local flavors and appeal to many people.

Challenges as a complex alcoholic beverage manufacturer continue.

The catchphrase is “Iichiko, it’s a gentle intoxication.
Since 1993, Sanwa Shuzui has been advocating through its advertisements the enjoyment of pleasantly tasting alcoholic beverages and moderate drinking that suits one’s needs. These days, the amount of alcohol consumed is decreasing around the world. Sanwa Shuzo respects the individual’s way of enjoying alcoholic beverages, and would like to offer customers a moderate way to enjoy alcoholic beverages, rather than a quantity. Mr. Shimoda says, “Our mission is to provide our customers with a sense of satisfaction that cannot be compensated for by quantity. The clear, full, delicate flavor of Iichiko is inspired by the brewing of sake, which the company has been making since before it was founded, and is ideal as a conversation-stimulating food sake. Sanwa Shuzu will continue to take on new challenges while respecting the spirit and regional characteristics of each product, its diversity and tastes, and above all, its “people.

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Fukuda Shuzo is a long-established sake brewery that has been making sake in Hirado for about 330 years. The young brothers, Tatsuya and ShinjiFukuda, continue their pursuit of sake with a flavor that evokes the scenic beauty of Hirado, and that is both old tradition and newness. We took a closer look at the one-of-a-kind sake brewing process that can only be done in this region.

Japan’s westernmost sake brewery

The city of Hirado in Nagasaki Prefecture is located at the westernmost tip of the Kyushu mainland. It is a city of the sea, consisting of Hirado Island, which stretches long and narrow from north to south across the Hirado Seto, and about 40 islands of various sizes scattered around the island. It was the first place in Nagasaki where Christianity was preached, and in the 1600s it was the only Dutch trading port in Japan.

The Fukuda Sake Brewery has been brewing sake for 330 years in Hirado, founded in 1688 by Chojiheiemon Fukuda I as a purveyor to the Hirado clan. Today, the brewery is headed by the 14th generation Fukuda Akira, and his eldest son, Tatsuya, and his second son, Shinji, are responsible for the brewing process. The Fukuda series, the company’s flagship brand, won the Platinum Award in the Junmai-shu category at Kura Master, a sake competition held in France in 2018. The junmai ginjo of the same brand won gold in the junmai daiginjo-shu and junmai ginjo categories, and has steadily increased its recognition since then, winning gold for three consecutive years.

The company also produces Daiginjyo ” Fukutsuru ” and ” Nagasaki Bijin,” as well as ” Jagataraoharu,” a shochu made from Nagasaki-grown potatoes, “Kappitan,” a long-aged shochu produced by a secret method inherited from the Nanban people, and hon mirin (Japanese rice wine).

All raw materials are produced in Hirado

The rice used to make sake is mainly Yamada-Nishiki, known as the best rice for sake brewing, and is locally grown in Hirado. The Fukuda brothers have been working with a contracted farmer to revive terraced rice paddies in the area and cultivate the rice themselves. They do not use herbicides as much as possible, and they reduce weeds by manually and mechanically stirring up the mud in the paddy fields.

In the upper reaches of the terraced rice paddies, where there are almost no houses, there is no domestic wastewater, and the rice grown in the clear water from the mountains tastes different. By growing rice within reach, we are sensitive to changes in climate and environment, and this sensibility is also utilized in sake production,” says Tatsuya, the elder brother of the family.

This year, they have also started working again with a sake rice called ” reiho,” which was widely used in the Kyushu region in the 1970s. Yamada-Nishiki has a nice aroma and a clean taste, and in many ways it is an excellent rice. Reihou is easy to grow in warm regions and is suited to the climate of Hirado, so we are taking up the challenge again. It is said to have a mild aroma and a light mouthfeel, but I am looking forward to seeing how it will taste.

For brewing water, the company uses spring water fromYasumandake, the highest peak in Hirado City, which is included in the World Heritage Site “Nagasaki and Amakusa Region Related to Submerged Christians” and is rich in virgin forest. The low mineral content of the water and its softness and purity allow for slow fermentation, resulting in a mellow sake with no harsh taste.

The warm climate of this region and the fact that it is an old brewery make it difficult to control the temperature, but several years ago they replaced some of the enameled tanks with thermal tanks (tanks with cooling systems) to withstand the sudden temperature changes during the brewing season. Tatsuya says, “Since the temperature can be controlled on a tank-by-tank basis, we can manage unrefined sake without being affected by the outside air, which makes brewing easier.

Tasting the climate of Hirado through sake

Fukutsuru” and “Nagasaki Bijin” are representative of Fukuda Shuzo’s famous sake brewed in this way. Fukutsuru,” a daiginjo-shu made from home-grown Yamada-Nishiki and fermented slowly at low temperature, has a slightly sweet taste with a fruity flavor that is popular among women.

The “Fukuda” series, which has won numerous awards at sake competitions in Japan and abroad, is another popular new product from the Fukuda Shuzo brewery. Fukuda,” says Tatsuya, “has a soft aroma that blends well with the gentle flavor of Yamada Nishiki, and it has a clean aftertaste that makes it easy to drink without interfering with food. It is also attracting attention as a food sake, which is unique to Hirado, a city with an abundance of seafood.

Potato Shochu” unique to Nagasaki

In addition to sake, Fukuda Shuzo also produces shochu. In particular, “Jagataraoharu,” a potato shochu liqueur that is rare in Japan, is a popular brand that is well known locally. When one thinks of potato production, Hokkaido comes to mind, but Nagasaki is actually the second largest producer of potatoes after Hokkaido. The shochu is made from fresh potatoes, barley, and rice malt, and carefully distilled using techniques cultivated over many years. It is rich in potassium and vitamin C, which is not easily destroyed by heating, making it popular among health-conscious people. Incidentally, “Jagatara” refers to present-day Jakarta. It is said that the “Jakarta potato” brought from Jakarta became the “potato.

The Fukuda brothers say, “We named it after the history of the potato, as well as in memory of a Nagasaki woman named ‘Oharu-san’ who was once exiled to the land of Jakarta due to the Christian ban. The sake has a mild yet subtle potato flavor, and is best enjoyed while contemplating the history of Hirado, which has come into contact with the breath of Western civilization.

KAPITAN, a secret sake stored for 10 years

The barley shochu “Kabitan ” is another unusual shochu. The flavor of the barley is extracted through traditional atmospheric distillation, then packed in oak barrels and slowly aged for 5 to 10 years in a warehouse built at the time of the company’s founding. The amber-colored, matured “KAPITAN” is a secret sake with a spicy aroma characteristic of oak barrels, a mild flavor, and a rich, natural barley taste. It is recommended to drink it on the rocks or with water like whiskey, but it is best to enjoy it with a meal, as it has a refreshing taste with few peculiarities.

Hon Mirin,” which plays a starring role rather than a supporting role

Along with the wide variety of sakes, the most impressive is ” hon mirin,” or Japanese sweet cooking rice wine, made exclusively from locally produced ingredients. Mirin is subject to liquor tax because it contains 12-15% alcohol, and since the 2011 revision of the Sake Tax Law made it easier to obtain a manufacturing license, an increasing number of local sake breweries have obtained licenses to produce mirin and are working to develop new products. Fukuda Shuzo is one such company. After graduating from university, his younger brother Shinji learned mirin production at the brewery where he had trained, and obtained a license in 2016 after returning to his hometown. He obtained a license in 2016 after returning to his hometown, and is now producing “authentic” mirin while utilizing the know-how unique to a sake brewery.

Mirin is made using only three ingredients: locally grown glutinous rice called “mochi-minori,” rice malt, and rice shochu. While many mirin are made with brewing alcohol or sugar to compensate for the lack of saccharification, Fukuda Shuzo’s mirin is made the old-fashioned way, with the sweetness of the rice slowly extracted over a period of three months. We can’t say it enough, but it makes a big difference in the quality of our food,” said Shinji. It is also good to drink,” Shinji himself assures us.

Sake brewing is made with heart and nurtured by the wind.

Fukuda Sake Brewery has been in the brewing business for more than 330 years since receiving permission from the lord of the Hirado domain to produce “Fukutsuru” sake. As I listen to the story and sip the sake, I am reminded not only of the history and culture of Hirado, but also of the scenery of Hirado, including the fields where rice is grown and the mountains where water gushes out of the ground. And the smiling faces of the brewery workers who devote themselves to sake brewing.

The determination to carry on a family business that has been in existence for more than 300 years must be extraordinary. With this strong sense of mission in mind, he continues to work hard today to make sake that will be enjoyed by many people under the motto of ” making sake that brings smiles to people’s faces.

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In the past, master brewers would be loaned out to the breweries. They were local farmers who shared their experience and knowledge as sake brewing specialists in the winter. Nowadays, brewery owners and presidents take on this role brewing sake, or a brew master is employed full time by the brewery. There is a legend in this world who is often referred to as the “god of sake brewing” or the “legend master brewer of Noto”.

Naohiko Noguchi was born to a family of sake brewers in 1932, in the Noto area of Ishikawa prefecture. He entered the world of sake brewing at the age of 16, training in Shizuoka and Mie. After returning to Ishikawa, he took on sake brewing at various brewers such as “Kikuhime”, “Jyokigen Brewery” and “Noguchi Brewery”, winning gold for 12 consecutive years at the National Sake competition for a total of 27 occasions. He is considered a legend, and is also known to be responsible for triggering the sake boom in 1970 after he released a special label that was originally created just for the competition. He is also known to have revived a traditional sake brewing method called “yamahai”. He is the leader in the world of sake brewing, a recipient of accolades such as “modern artisan” and Yellow Ribbon Award.

Although Mr. Noguchi initially retired in 2015, he returned to work in 2017 after establishing the Naohiko Noguchi Sake Institute. The institute was established in response to Mr. Noguchi’s desire to “brew sake with young people who are pursuing the dream and techniques of sake brewing”. True to its name, the institute seeks to pass on the techniques, spirit, and dedication of Mr. Noguchi to the next generation. It is a very new style of sake brewery. There are 8 young staff who work with Mr. Noguchi, monitoring the temperature in the tanks and malt room, following the detailed data Mr. Noguchi kept and using the latest equipment, in hopes of carrying on his spirit. They strive to create sake that has a light and pleasant after taste that spreads out after swallowing, as they envision the smiles of delight on the faces of customers.

At Naohiko Noguchi Sake Institute, they strive to expand sake culture. There is a gallery adjacent to the brewery that portrays the history and dedication of Mr. Noguchi’s sake brewing. There is also a tasting room that was created under the art direction of Ohi Ozaemon the 11th called “Morian”. Visitors can experience new ways to enjoy sake as they enjoy the beautiful seasonal scenery. The brewery also holds a pairing event “Komatsu Saketronomy” to entice gourmet enthusiasts from around the world to visit. The event features renowned chefs and is a fusion of “sake” and “gastronomy”, one of the creative ways the brewery relays Japanese sake and culture.

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Founded in Makurazaki, Kagoshima in 1936, Satsuma Shuzo has its distillery, bottling plant and beer house in Minami Satsuma. In addition to its signature shochu “Satsuma Shiranami”, the distillery produces rice shochu, sparkling alcohol and liqueurs.

“Satsuma Shiranami” is a sweet potato based shochu using the “kogane sengan” variety which is mainly grown for shochu production. It is a traditional and authentic shochu made with the sweet potato and rice malt, using traditional methods that have been passed on through the generations in Satsuma. It has a distinct deep sweetness with the aroma of sweet potatoes, and has grown its nationwide fan base since the first shochu boom of the 70’s. The Shiranami line includes a sharp tasting “Kuro Shiranami”, an aromatic “Sakura Shiranami” which uses fresh sweet potatoes grown in Minami Satsuma and yellow koji, and “Mugen (eternal) Shiranami” which pursues the full potential of shochu.

With their motto “bringing a smile to our customers” at the foundation, they have worked together with local growers to create the best sweet potatoes. Using the freshest sweet potatoes, they dedicate themselves to developing rich soil and growing the best malt, as well as proactively introducing the latest technology to create shochu that aligns with consumer expectations.

At the Hinokami Distillery, they produce “Satsuma Shiranami” and the popular “Kami no Kawa”, a barley shochu that is stored for an extended period. “Kami no Kawa” is an amber shochu made using 100% Nijo Barley and is stored in white oak barrels for 3 years under strict supervision of barrel craftspeople. The extended fermentation produces a very aromatic shochu with a pleasant sweetness. In order to produce “Kami no Kawa”, Satsuma Shuzo is the only shochu distillery with its own barrel making studio, barrel storage and barrel craftspeople who oversee and maintain the barrels. There is a process where barrels are burned to revive them after being used for making western style liquors. This process brings back the smokiness and vanilla like scent in the barrels.

Satsuma Shuzo also boasts “Meiji Kura” which is also known as the observation warehouse. It not only retains the features of the late Meiji era with old equipment on display, but they also continue to make shochu using 100 plus year old urns. Visitors can observe traditional shochu preparation. We encourage you to visit, as there are labels sold exclusively at the distillery.

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Finest of awamori made from black malt and Indica rice

Miyazato Shuzo was founded 60 years ago, and has been making Ryukyu awamori labels like ”Harusame”. Among them, ”Harusame Karii” is something of a legend, and was the drink served at the Okinawa Summit. ”The biggest feature of awamori is in the use of black rice malt”, explained Toru Miyazato, the president of Miyazato Distillery. It is because black rice malt mold produces a lot of citric acid, which keeps other germs from spreading. It is ideal for the warm climate of Okinawa. Miyazato showed us the ingredients of black rice malt, the black malt and Indica rice from Thailand. The minute we stepped inside the distillery, we could smell the fragrance of rice malt in the air. ”Smells good,” commented Nakata. We followed Miyazato and learned about the brewing process.

Fermenting black rice malt

For seeding malt, a big metal barrel has been used since 1971. Seeding is done by sprinkling spores of black rice malt on steamed rice. Once the temperature of steamed rice drops to 48 degrees Celsius, black rice malt is sprayed on it and then left overnight. Then, it is mixed in the tank with water and yeast in a certain ratio for fermentation. When we took a look at the fermentation process, it was bubbling vigorously. ”Fermentation looks totally different from that of Japanese ”sake”,” exclaimed Nakata who couldn’t hide his surprise. After fermenting in the tank for about 2 weeks, it will go through the distillation process.

Producing raw awamori using an original atmospheric distillation unit

Next step is putting the fermented mash into the distillation unit for heating. What’s gathered from the alcohol vapor that is cooled by cooling water, becomes the unrefined spirit. The distillation pot was an unusual one, designed by Miyazato and the former president, to place pipings installed to fit the shape of the pot to bring out the best features of the mash. There is a coil in the pipe, and cool water flows in it to cool down the undiluted awamori vapor. It is so sensitive that a slight difference of angle of the pipe or the temperature of the cooling water makes a difference in the taste. When asked what is the tip for drinking awamori, Miyazato answered, ”put some in your mouth but don’t let it go down the throat. Then, breathe in and enjoy the aroma.” Nakata tried ”Harusame Lamé” 43 degrees in alcohol, and commented with satisfaction, ”The rich flavor gradually flourishes towards the end.”

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Making a wide variety of sake

Asahara Brewery has its factory in Ogose, Saitama Prefecture. We interviewed Kenichi Asahara, the 5th president.
”About twenty years ago, in the time of my predecessor, we may have been the smallest brewery in Japan. We were only brewing about 9000 liters. Originally, we were making Japanese ”sake” and it’s only about 12 years ago, that we started making liqueurs. Now we are making about 144,000 liters of ”sake” and quite a lot of liqueurs.”
In March 2011, the company was met with a fire disaster, and the warehouse of the headquarters was burned to the ground, and one third of the ”sake” in production process was lost. The warehouse is still being reconstructed. They now make ”sake” in Nagaoka, Niigata Prefecture, and they are making various liqueurs, wine and ”shochu” in the Ogose factory.

The fun of developing new products!

When you look at the product lineup of Asahara Brewery, you will be surprised by the wide variety. The number counts up to several dozens. Apart from their own products, they also undertake production of private brand products of other companies. Also, they are especially committed to the development of various liqueurs.
”Moromi zake”, cider liqueur, ”makkori”, plum wine, ”yuzu” liqueur, low-malt beer… Nakata tried one after the other, and one liqueur especially caught his attention. ”Sayama green tea plum liqueur”.
”I’ve never tasted plum liqueur with such bold green tea flavor. It’s delicious.”
It uses Sayama green tea, and the plums from Ogose, and the taste is a pleasant harmony of fresh green tea and the sweetness of plums.

”When I started making liqueurs, I wanted to make something unusual. Then I realized that the possibility is infinite, and we can make so many kinds of liqueurs. We now make vegetable liqueurs, too. Customers ask me, can you make such a liqueur? and we make anything. It is our motto that we never refuse any requests,” said Asahara laughingly. More and more unique ideas for new products came up, and Nakata’s conversation with Asahara about product development went on and on.

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Spreading joy through “sake”

”Kitaya” is a brewery founded in Bunsei Era in Edo Period. The name ”Kitaya” was named after the resolution at the time of foundation, to ”spreading joy through sake”, and it has been the basis of their corporate philosophy to the present.
The first owner, Saikichi Kinoshita was so passionate about brewing, that he took on the role of ”toji” (brew master) and did the brewing himself. Since then, ”the owner should brew the sake” became the family rule, and now, the master brewer and several engineers work together as a team to make ”sake” under the president who is also a brewing engineer.

In a region where “Yamada Nishiki” is produced

Yame-shi, Fukuoka Prefecture, where Kitaya is located, is situated in the south of Chikushi Plain, which is the No.1 granary in Kyushu. The region has great natural beauty, and is blessed with quality rice, pure water and rich nature. A large volume of ”sake” rice is made in Fukuoka Prefecture, including the most famous ”Yamada Nishiki”, which is still considered the best rice for ”sake” brewing.
We were given a lecture on Yamada Nishiki, and also shown a huge ”sugidama”, weighing 2 tons. ”Sugidama” is also called ”sakabayashi” and it is made to announce that the new ”sake” is ready. Its origin comes from the cedar of Mt. Miwa, the deity of Omiwa Shrine (also called Miwa Shrine) in Nara, the god of ”sake” making.
We also learned a lot of things about making ”sake”, such as the bottles used for storing ”sake”.

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Introduction of sweet potatoes to Japan

In addition to firearms, Tanegashima is also home to the introduction of something else.
Tanegashima is also the first place where sweet potatoes sent by the Ryukyu Dynasty about 300 years ago were cultivated in Japan. Nakata learned about it when he dropped by Tanegashima Shuzo. He also had the opportunity to see a field where the potatoes to make liquor were organically grown, as the area is suitable for growing sweet potatoes thanks to the flat and mineral-rich soil and mild climate. Having received JAS organic certification, Tanegashima Shuzo has a garden that grows sweet potatoes of better quality by also adding shellfish fossils and enzyme to the soil.
”Shiroyutaka” is very starchy, and is said to take on outstanding sweetness if grown in Tanegashima. ”Anno” is arguably the tastiest of the kind in Japan. ”Tanegashima-murasaki” is also popular as a variety of medicinal potatoes. From these potatoes, tasty ”shochu” is made in the traditional earthen pots with spring water from the underground water that has been flowing since the establishment of the shop in 1902.

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