In recent years, “seagrass die-off”—a phenomenon in which seaweed can no longer grow in the ocean due to rising sea temperatures—has become a global marine environmental issue. It is said that Japan’s natural seaweed beds are disappearing at a rate equivalent to 1,200 Tokyo Domes worth per year. Alarmed by this situation—in which the foundation of the marine ecosystem is being undermined, affecting the fishing industry as a whole—Kochi Prefecture-based “Sea Vegetable LLC” (hereinafter “Sea Vegetable”) launched the world’s first land-based cultivation of aonori using underground seawater in 2016. By expanding seaweed farms across the country in collaboration with local partners and actively pursuing both land-based and offshore cultivation, the company aims to preserve the richness of the ocean and the culinary culture centered on seaweed.

Cultivating Aonori, Which Disappeared from the Shimanto River, on Land

Kochi Prefecture is known for its intense sunlight streaming down from the blue sky and its warm climate. The prefecture has a narrow, east-west shape, with the Pacific Ocean to the south and the Shikoku Mountains towering to the north. At Sea Vegetable’s land-based facility, “Suji Aonori”—known as the highest-grade variety of aonori—is being cultivated using the world’s first land-based cultivation technology.

My deep love for the ocean, which I’ve felt since my college days

Co-founder Jun Hachiya, a native of Okayama Prefecture, conceived a business plan for “integrated aquaculture of abalone and seaweed using deep-sea water” while still a student at Kochi University. With the cooperation of co-founder Yuichi Tomohiro, he conducted demonstration research aimed at commercializing the project. Deep-sea water is seawater drawn from depths of 320 to 374 meters off the coast of Muroto in Kochi Prefecture; it maintains a stable, low temperature of approximately 10 degrees Celsius year-round.

Mr. Hachiya says he originally enjoyed diving into the ocean and catching fish he could see up close. “Every year, whenever I dived in the same spot, the number of fish visibly decreased. I realized that wherever fish gathered in large numbers, there was always seaweed, and driven by a desire to bring fish back to the ocean, I threw myself into seaweed research.”

Rising sea temperatures due to global warming have altered fish habitats and impacted Kochi Prefecture’s seaweed industry. The brackish water zone near the mouth of the Shimanto River—known as “Japan’s Last Pristine River”—where freshwater and seawater mix, was once the nation’s premier natural fishing ground for “suji aonori” (striped green laver), but by 2020, the catch had dropped to nearly zero. It is believed that the decline in catch is directly proportional to the rise in water temperature in the estuary.


Mr. Hachiya took action to revive the “suji aonori,” which could no longer be harvested naturally. He explained that his determination grew stronger as he thought, “If seaweed can no longer grow in the ocean, let’s grow it on land,” and “I want to take on this challenge to ensure that the culinary culture of seaweed does not die out.”

In a large tank built near the Pacific Ocean, blue-veined nori drifts about

When you visit Sea Vegetable’s land-based facility along the coast overlooking the Pacific Ocean, you’ll be amazed by the rows of massive circular tanks. The largest one has a diameter of about 25 meters—roughly the length of an elementary school swimming pool.

Suji aonori grows at an astonishingly fast rate; under the right conditions, it can double in size in a single day, and it’s said to possess such vitality that its appearance changes between morning and evening. The tanks come in four sizes, and about once a week, the grown Suji Aonori is transferred to larger tanks.

“There’s an ideal size for harvesting that’s considered the most delicious, so we designed these four sizes of circular tanks by working backward to ensure the seaweed grows to that size,” explains Mr. Hachiya.

Pump up the “underground seawater” and continue stirring

The tanks are filled with “underground seawater,” which reportedly maintains an ideal environment for seaweed growth throughout the year. Pumped from a depth of 20 meters underground, this “underground seawater” is naturally filtered as it passes through layers of sand and other geological strata from the ocean, ensuring clean water and a stable temperature. Furthermore, when it rains, freshwater mixes in, and on sunny days, photosynthesis flourishes. For seaweed that thrives in brackish waters where the sea and rivers meet, this location provides an environment close to nature.

Furthermore, the “groundwater” in the tanks circulated slowly in a circular pattern. Since striped green laver absorbs nutrients from the surface of its thallus and grows through photosynthesis, an environment with constant water flow and even light exposure is essential. Generally, seaweed grows normally by attaching itself to substrates such as stones or rocks using holdfasts, but here, the blue-striped laver is attached to one another. It spreads radially from the holdfasts—which function as roots—and is cultivated as it drifts through the water in a form resembling a bundle of fine threads, allowing it to grow to a uniform size.

Land-based cultivation, which holds potential different from that of marine cultivation

When I reached into the tank, the green suji aonori swayed gently and brushed against my fingertips. When I put it in my mouth raw, its fresh, vibrant green flavor spread throughout my mouth. I’ve heard that dried suji aonori turns a more vivid green and has a stronger aroma than the fresh variety. I’ve also heard that fresh suji aonori can be eaten as tempura, but either way, the natural, refreshing quality of the seaweed is sure to stand out.

Since suji aonori is widely distributed from Hokkaido to Okinawa, even within the same species, characteristics such as temperature tolerance and growth rate vary by region. When Sea Vegetable began land-based cultivation in Kochi, they focused not only on these characteristics but also on selecting elite strains with superior aroma and texture as food ingredients. They reportedly screened suji aonori from across the country and underwent a process of trial and error.

Next, I tried the eating method recommended by Mr. Hachiya. When I sprinkled powdered land-cultivated Suji Aonori onto a bag of lightly salted potato chips, I could taste the umami of the sea and experience its deep aroma. They say that growing it on land allows for meticulous nutritional management, resulting in a richer aroma and umami.

Looking Beyond Aonori: A Vision for the Future

Since seaweed reproduces via spores, the conditions for germination and growth vary by species. At Sea Vegetable, research is ongoing to identify the optimal cultivation methods while unraveling the characteristics of each individual species.

Black nori cultivation is now in full swing

They have also established a land-based cultivation technique for black nori, which has long been a cornerstone of Japanese food culture. They plan to successfully achieve mass production of black nori via land-based cultivation (300 kg or more in dried weight) by fiscal year 2025 and begin preparations for mass production starting in fiscal year 2026.

Mr. Hachiya stated, “There is a huge global market for black nori, so first, we want to establish the technology for land-based production and provide it to fishermen and companies in coastal areas who are losing their livelihoods, thereby creating new sources of income. At the same time, Japan has unique species of seaweed in each region, and quite a few are at risk of extinction. We are also considering raising seedlings for these species on land and releasing them back into the sea in their respective regions to establish aquaculture beds.” Ultimately, the goal is to restore the natural abundance of seaweed in the ocean.

However, per capita consumption of seaweed in Japan has fallen to about half of what it was 30 years ago, due to the diversification of the diet. Seaweed, which once naturally graced dining tables alongside traditional Japanese cuisine, is losing its presence as Western and Chinese cuisines become more widespread in daily life. Mr. Hachiya says, “The potential of seaweed isn’t limited to Japanese cuisine. Aonori goes well with pizza, and sprinkling it on potato chips releases a surprisingly rich aroma. I feel that the key to solving the problem of declining consumption lies precisely in genres we haven’t tried before, so I want to conduct various tests and share our findings.”

Develops Soy Sauce Made from Suji Aonori and Opens a Seaweed Specialty Store

One of their new challenges is “Aonori Soy Sauce,” made from Suji Aonori. This seasoning is produced by fermenting only aonori, salt, and rice—without using soybeans or wheat. It has a pale amber color. When tasted, the aroma of the sea fills the mouth, making it a perfect match for seafood. Because it is gluten-free and soy-free, the company receives many inquiries from overseas, and the product has become a symbol of the new value of seaweed.

Near Tokyo Station, we’ve opened “Sea Veg Stand,” a restaurant specializing in seaweed cuisine. It serves dishes like Suji Aonori Potatoes, dishes featuring “Mirin”—a rare red seaweed traditionally eaten in regions like Kumamoto—and ramen generously topped with seaweed, making it a hub that showcases the appeal of seaweed from multiple angles. This is where our effort to revive the “culture of eating seaweed” is beginning.

Researchers Hold the Key to Success

The lab is the key to Sea Vegetable’s business. It handles the most critical initial stage of land-based cultivation of Suji Aonori. Aonori harvested and cultivated at the lab is transferred to the land-based facility after about one month, where it is grown for another month before being harvested.

The mind-boggling task of sorting spores

“To succeed in land-based cultivation, the most important thing is to consistently harvest spores from the parent plants of striped green laver and raise them without letting them die,” says researcher Nigi. “If they die at that stage, there will naturally be nothing to send to the cultivation site. It’s crucial to remove anything—such as bacteria—that could harm the green laver spores and successfully raise them.”

The greatest challenge in cultivating Suji Aonori is maintaining the parent strains in a constantly healthy state to ensure a stable supply of spores throughout the year. It also involves the process of extracting spores from the parent strains and ensuring they grow stably without dying. To raise the spores healthily, it is necessary to thoroughly eliminate harmful impurities, such as bacteria, and maintain appropriate temperature control.

Holding a small petri dish, Mr. Nigi explains, “At first, they’re really just round specks about 10 microns in size.” Ten microns is 0.01 millimeters. Although the spores are invisible to the naked eye, they can be observed under a microscope, and after a few days, you can see them growing into the characteristic shape of aonori.

Nigi was performing a painstakingly delicate task, repeatedly and carefully using a pipette to aspirate the approximately 10-micron spores, isolating only the “high-purity spores.”

シーベジタブルを支える研究者

Furthermore, Mr. Nigi explains, “The harvest season for natural nori runs from fall through early spring; since growth stops in the summer, it wasn’t suitable for harvesting. However, to maximize the utilization of our facilities for land-based cultivation, we need to grow a combination of strains with different temperature tolerances. So, even within the same ‘Suji Aonori’ variety, we’ve tested about 100 different strains from Hokkaido to Okinawa to find the most suitable ones.”

Generally, land-based cultivation involves significant capital investment and operating costs, making profitability crucial. That is precisely why selecting strains that are resilient to environmental conditions and grow efficiently is the key to establishing this as a viable industry. Researchers are tackling this challenge as they strive to pave the way for the future of seaweed cultivation.

When seaweed returns, the future of the ocean will change

Seaweed forms the foundation of the marine ecosystem. As natural seaweed beds decline, a research report by the Good Sea General Incorporated Association reveals surprising results: using seedlings grown on land for offshore cultivation can increase fish populations by up to approximately 36 times compared to uncultivated waters.

As seaweed increases, fish return, and the ocean regains its abundance. Seaweed cultivation is not only a way to preserve our food culture but also an initiative that supports the future of the ocean. Sea Vegetable aims to become a reliable force—extending beyond the borders of Japan—to pass on a bountiful ocean to the next generation.

The post “Sea Vegetable LLC,” based in Kochi City, Kochi Prefecture, aims to preserve seaweed culinary traditions and the richness of the ocean through the world’s first land-based cultivation of aonori using underground seawater. first appeared on NIHONMONO.

The sea off Kochi, with its beautiful horizon stretching far into the distance, sparkles as it reflects the sunlight. About a 30-minute drive from downtown Kochi City, at the base of the Yokonami Peninsula jutting out into the Pacific Ocean, lies the Kochi University Comprehensive Research Center’s Marine Biology Education and Research Facility—a spot surrounded by palm trees and exuding a tropical atmosphere.
Upon entering the building, your eyes are immediately drawn to a giant fish specimen. This fish is the “Akame,” a carnivorous species native to Japan and representative of Kochi Prefecture. Although it is a rare species at risk of extinction, many Akame still inhabit the Shimanto River estuary and Urado Bay in Kochi Prefecture. The presence of this giant fish, which can grow to nearly 2 meters in length, has long been seen as proof of the richness of the ocean and brackish waters. However, that abundance is now being seriously threatened.
Comments from fishermen—such as “We can’t catch as many as we used to” and “The fishing season has shifted”—indicate that changes in the ocean are definitely underway.

A Quiet Crisis That Began in the Seas Where Seaweed Is Disappearing

“While the global average temperature has risen by 0.6 degrees over the past 100 years, the temperature along the coast of Kochi is rising at roughly twice that rate,” says Professor Masanori Hiraoka of Kochi University, a leading expert in seaweed research.

Kochi Prefecture lies near the southern limit of temperate seaweed distribution, and in the 1970s and 1980s, the coast of Kochi was home to extensive “seaweed beds” teeming with temperate seaweed. These seaweed beds, also known as “ocean forests,” serve as hiding places for juvenile fish and as spawning grounds for squid. Abalone, turban shells, and sea urchins grow by feeding on the seaweed in these beds. Furthermore, larger fish that prey on these small fish and crustaceans are attracted to the area. The abundance of seaweed—which forms the foundation supporting marine life—was a direct reflection of the richness of the marine ecosystem itself.

A 1-degree rise in sea temperature dramatically changes the ocean

However, due to global warming, sea temperatures are rising, and these seaweed beds are now rapidly disappearing. For example, seaweeds such as aonori and kelp grow in the cold waters of winter. However, once the temperature exceeds their upper growth limit, photosynthesis and metabolism become difficult, and they can no longer maintain their cellular structure. When water temperatures rise and the seaweed senses a threat to its survival, it releases spores to ensure the survival of the next generation rather than extending its fronds and growing further, and its body eventually disintegrates and disappears.

In addition, tropical seaweeds have proliferated rapidly in recent years. Tropical species, which were rarely seen in the 1970s, expanded their range year by year throughout the 1980s, 1990s, and 2000s, and it is said that tropical species have now replaced the seaweeds most commonly found in Kochi.

A prime example of this is the tropical seaweed known as Hondawara. Whereas the native temperate Hondawara thrived almost year-round, the tropical variety grows only during warm periods, causing fish that used to inhabit the seaweed beds during colder months to lose their habitat.

Furthermore, changes in the coastal environment also affect fish further offshore. Hondawara growing along the coast can break off and drift out to sea. In Kochi, juvenile yellowtail gather around this “drifting seaweed.” Fishermen catch these juveniles—which they call “mojako”—and use them for aquaculture. Although the mojako fishing season is limited to early spring, tropical kelp does not drift ashore until summer. There are concerns that this will eventually affect the mojako fishery as well.

Furthermore, while tropical kelp can grow up to 2 meters in length, it is not suitable for human consumption, and its industrial use has not progressed.

The professor states, “Before being a food source, seaweed is the ‘foundation’ that supports the marine ecosystem. If seaweed disappears, fish migration routes will change, and the habitats of shellfish will be lost. Furthermore, it will affect the fishing industry itself.”

The Day the Aonori Disappeared from the Shimanto River

Particularly striking are the changes that have occurred at the mouth of the Shimanto River, known as the prefecture’s only seaweed production area. The seaweeds that have long supported Kochi’s food culture—Sujiaonori and Hitoegusa (Aosa-nori)—grew in the estuary where river water and seawater mix. The Shimanto River estuary, in particular, was renowned as Japan’s premier natural fishing ground for Suziaonori, and the sight of Suziaonori growing to over one meter in length was a hallmark of winter in Kochi.

Suziaonori has a strong aroma and is known as a high-quality ingredient essential for okonomiyaki and takoyaki. Hitoegusa has long been enjoyed in tsukudani and tempura. However, changes in the natural environment caused by global warming have dealt a blow to both of these species. The annual harvest of striped aosa, which once ranged from 10 to 20 metric tons, has dropped to zero in the wild since 2020. Cultivated hitoegusa has also been unavailable since 2021, and Kochi’s sole seaweed industry once completely vanished.

Kochi University Aims to Revitalize the Seaweed Industry Through Its World-Renowned “Land-Based Aquaculture”

Around the time the seaweed in the Shimanto River began to disappear, researchers at Kochi University were the first to confront this change.

“If this continues, the seaweed culture itself will disappear”—it was this sense of crisis that quietly spurred the university into action.

What turned the tide was land-based aquaculture technology. In 2004, to rebuild a sustainable seaweed industry in Kochi, Kochi University developed a land-based aquaculture system using deep-sea water off the coast of Muroto City, Kochi Prefecture, and succeeded in producing striped aonori. Muroto is one of the few places in Japan where deep-sea water can be drawn from near the shore. The deep-sea water, drawn from depths of 320 to 374 meters, maintains a stable, low temperature of approximately 10 degrees Celsius year-round, creating an environment where aonori—a type of seaweed traditionally harvested only in winter—could be cultivated year-round.

Furthermore, as research progressed, the team developed a patented technology called the “spore agglomeration method,” which involves simultaneously releasing spores, agglomerating them, and then culturing and suspending them to ensure uniform growth. The ability to stably produce high-quality, tangle-free seedlings through this method was groundbreaking even on a global scale. It dramatically improved spore survival rates, enabled mass production on land, and paved the way for industrialization.

The volume of land-based cultivation of Suziaonori initially stood at 1 metric ton but increased to 3 metric tons within a few years. It now exceeds 10 metric tons, meaning that more than half of the amount once harvested from the wild is now being regenerated on land. Land-based cultivation of Hitoegusa (Aosa nori) is also beginning in large tanks, and a stable supply is expected in the near future.

A Leading Region in Seaweed Research and Land-Based Aquaculture

Although land-based aquaculture requires significant capital investment and efficient cultivation techniques are essential, more than 20 companies nationwide have adopted Kochi University’s technology and are working to restore seaweed beds. Furthermore, there are high hopes that this technology can be applied to the restoration of natural seaweed beds and contribute to the revival of seaweed communities that have disappeared due to high water temperatures.

From Food to Energy: The Future Shaped by Seaweed—A Challenge Beginning in Kochi

The cumulative results of research—beginning with the successful land-based cultivation of seaweed in 2004—are opening up new possibilities beyond the realm of food. In Kochi, a major initiative known as the “Shimanto Seaweed Eco-Innovation Co-creation Hub Project” is currently underway. It is an effort in which government, businesses, researchers, and local residents are collaborating to cultivate seaweed and create new industries. Professor Hiraoka serves as the project leader.

Seaweed is viewed as a promising material for the future, with ongoing developments such as paper, fibers, and edible jellies made from seaweed—which can multiply three to four times in a single day—as well as biodegradable plastics derived from seaweed and research on the seaweed species Kagikeno, which, when added in small amounts to the feed of ruminants such as cattle, reduces methane emissions from their belches by 90 percent. Furthermore, given that one metric ton of seaweed absorbs one metric ton of CO₂, cultivating seaweed itself contributes to protecting the global environment. As a result, seaweed is currently attracting worldwide attention as a food source, a resource, and a material for shaping the future.

The post Vanishing Seagrass Beds and a Future of Regeneration: The Ocean’s Revival as Envisioned by the “Kochi University Comprehensive Research Center Marine Biology Research Facility” / Tosa City, Kochi Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.

Uppurui Town is located along the Sea of Japan in Izumo City, Shimane Prefecture. The Uppurui nori harvested here is wild rock nori that is hand-picked while braving the rough winter seas. This tradition—nurtured by strong winds and waves and carried on as a way of life to reap the bounty of the sea—remains deeply rooted in this place to this day. Amid the intertwining of history and nature, this nori has been passed down as something truly special.

Uppurui nori: Nurtured on the rocky shores of the Sea of Japan and passed down through generations

Uppurui is a town in Izumo City, Shimane Prefecture, facing the Sea of Japan. Its coastline features a unique landscape with a series of large and oddly shaped rocks lining the tip of the cape. This scenery, shaped over many years by the rough waves of the Sea of Japan, is considered one of the most beautiful coastal views in the San’in region.

Clinging to these rocky shores is the region’s specialty: Uppurui nori. This naturally grown rock seaweed has a long history; it is said to have been presented to the imperial court during the Nara and Heian periods and treated as a tribute to the shogunate during the Edo period.

A Harvesting Site Where We Continue to Work in Harmony with Nature

Uppurui nori can only be harvested during the short period from December to February. It grows in harsh conditions—strong seasonal winds and rough waves—and these conditions directly determine the quality of the nori.

While there used to be nearly 50 Uppurui nori producers in the village, that number has now dwindled to just over a dozen. Annual production is said to be less than one metric ton. Furthermore, since most of it is consumed within the prefecture, it is a rare type of nori that is rarely found outside the prefecture.

Mineo Hino is one of the few who continues to harvest Uppurui nori.

He has been involved with Uppurui nori for about 70 years. Although he once moved to Osaka, he returned to this place after his father—a Uppurui nori fisherman—asked him to come back.

“Uppurui nori is a gift from the sea.”

His words reveal the essence of a livelihood lived in harmony with nature. Rather than being something people create, it is a gift from the sea that they receive. That mindset is what sustains this way of life.

A Harvest on a Rocky Shore Battered by Rough Waves

To reach the rocky shore where the nori is harvested, you first walk along a mountain trail for about 15 to 20 minutes. As you proceed along the narrow, rugged path, you’ll come upon a rocky slope facing the sea.

From a distance, the area looks like nothing more than black rocks, but they’re densely covered with Uppurui nori. Up close, the rocks are wet and glistening, changing their appearance with every wave that crashes against them.

Because waves constantly crash against the rocks, you must remain vigilant at all times. The waves reach right up to your feet and sometimes even splash over your body. It is truly a life-threatening task.

Wearing a rain suit and rubber boots, Mr. Hino goes about his work with calm determination. The way he continues working without flinching, even as the waves crash against him, speaks to the depth of experience he has accumulated in this place.

Using years of experience to read the swell

The harvest of Uppurui nori—a type of wild rock seaweed—is heavily dependent on natural conditions. If the waves are too strong, the seaweed tears; if they are too weak, it does not grow sufficiently.

What is required is a narrow window of conditions where strength and calm coexist.

From November through February, when the harvest takes place, the Sea of Japan becomes extremely rough due to strong seasonal winds. Waves constantly crash against the rocky shores, and the slime from the nori makes the rocks slippery. If you misjudge the timing, there is a risk of being swept away by the waves; one wrong step can be a matter of life and death.

Mr. Hino watches the swell of the waves and picks the nori, weaving his way through the gaps between them. This work, which involves moving his body in sync with nature’s rhythm, is supported by his many years of experience.

He says he learned this technique by watching his parents. He picked it up by imitating them as he helped out, and even now, he continues to make judgments based on the sea conditions of the day.

The feel in his hands as he harvests the seaweed is also crucial. If he applies too much force, the fibers will snap, leaving the strands shorter. He picks them gently yet firmly. It is the accumulation of this delicate work that determines the quality of the seaweed.

Finished by hand, one by one, to preserve their natural state

After finishing the early morning work and wrapping up around noon, the next step is the nori drying process.

The nori is spread out on bamboo mats called “nori-su,” where it is shaped into single sheets while preserving its natural fibers and form. The workers use their sense of touch to arrange the nori evenly, taking into account how thick it will be once dry.

The finished nori is black and has a strong aroma. Compared to the soft, melt-in-your-mouth texture of typical farmed nori, it is characterized by the crisp, crunchy texture unique to wild rock nori and a strong, briny flavor.

Passing on Izumo’s Culinary Culture and the Art of Seaweed Harvesting to the Next Generation

Uppurui nori is an indispensable ingredient in New Year’s ozoni soup in the Izumo region. When floated in the broth with mochi, it fills the air with the scent of the sea, transforming it into a truly special bowl of soup.

In this way, Uppurui nori has been passed down as a food for festive occasions.

Meanwhile, Mr. Hino says, “I want people to know there are many ways to enjoy it, not just in ozoni.” You can savor its flavor in everyday dishes such as tempura, chawanmushi, rice balls, and soba.

Passing on the traditions that have been handed down through the generations

In the past, Mr. Hino and his wife, Mihoko, used to harvest the seaweed together, but since Mihoko developed a leg condition, Mr. Hino has taken the lead in the work. Because working alone on the rocky shores where waves crash is dangerous, a new person has now joined them, and they continue the harvest while supporting one another.

This work requires experience and cannot be easily passed on. Reading the waves, the proper way to harvest, and making decisions on the job—all of these skills have been cultivated over a long period of time.

Nevertheless, training the next generation is essential to passing on Uppurui nori to future generations. As they stand together on the rocky shores, that intuition and judgment are gradually passed down.

Leaving things to nature while taking only what is necessary—that approach will never change.

May each sheet harvested from these waters find its way to dining tables in Izumo, across the nation, and beyond. The legacy of Uppurui nori, too, will quietly be passed on to the next generation.

The post “Uppurui nori”: Natural rock seaweed nurtured by the Sea of Japan and harvested by hand, a tradition passed down through generations—Mineo Hino, Izumo City, Shimane Prefecture first appeared on NIHONMONO.